Thank you Low Budget Outdoorsman! Been looking for a video like this one for a while, very helpful. You seems like a great father as well I applaud you! God bless!
You did a very fine job explaining that. I am making one using a 12 actuator motor off a power wheelchair seat mechanism and hope to mount mine to my kayak. Yes, kayak. Hopefully anyway.
Really awesome video and Thanks for taking the time to simulate what you have , including the actual hardware .. you have made this easy to do ,, great job and also nice touch to include your daughter …. kids are hilarious in their honest and innocent way
If you put 1 on both of the back corners it will be 2 points of anchor that will prevent you from turning in the wind. That's how the talon anchors are on bass boats anyway. Just a suggestion.
Dude amazing video and great mechanical skills ive been searching for a good video/ baseline for building some of these!! Hands down urs is the best!!! Thank you by the way I probably watched a 100 of these lol
THANKS I'm going to to use your design using a broken street sign post. I predict the Preds will sweep the "Happy Feet"Penguins and there will be catfish in Pittsburgh!
Awesome video, very well explained, Thanks so much, I will use different material but the way you explain it, with the measures an the material by hand is the key for anthers like me to understand, Thanks for your video. God bless.
Fiberglass rod from Ace True Value, in 1/2” or 5/8” at 8 ft or 10 ft long is what I’m using for a shallow water anchor. They sell them typically as bank poles here in the Midwest.
Just found your channel cool stuff I have a friend who uses old laundry soap containers i.e. tide or something like that rinses them out good and feel them with cement and ties a rope around the handles with good knots and makes anchors
I just put 2 half round 1 inch brackets or pipe hangers on corner of transom and then i use a piece of 3/4 steel pipe 8 foot long and drop in pkace on my 15ft startcraft works great just like a pole shallow water anchor
You can simplify everything by just installing two U bolts to the transom, about 8" apart, one above, the other beneath, and run a PVC pipe that fits through the U bolts openings as the anchor, at the bottom end of the PVC pipe you can epoxy a galvanized metal rod if you wish to penetrate better in the mud/sand, when it comes time to pull up anchor, just slide out the PVC pipe out of the U bolts and lay the PVC pipe inside the hull, the PVC pipe can also be used in shallow water as a pole to push the boat, just use the other end of the PVC pipe with a cap on to push against the shallow bottom. If the PVC pipe flexes too much, you can make it stiffer by inserting a wooden stick (broom stick?) inside the PVC pipe, or an electrical conduit pipe (1/2" or 1" diameter) and epoxy the ends inside the PVC to stop it from rattling inside. And if the PVC pipe while being used as an anchor wants to float, attach/tie a bungee cord to the PVC, and tie it to a cleat neat the back of the boat, that way it will act as a spring keeping the PVC sunk in place pushing it against the bottom.
Yep. Tired that before I went to this; but it wasn't as effective, nor nearly as convenient as this has been. It works, but I've found this to be a much better solution for the type, and frequency of fishing I use it for. On a cheap kayak, that works really well though... paddle on one side and a four foot section of pvc on the other when not in use!
ua-cam.com/video/dXcqTxe4mzw/v-deo.html Sorry for not putting it in the video, but here is how I operate it. The gate spring and its own weight drive it down into the mud.
I thought about putting an electric actuator on it, but I was too cheap to spend the money on a waterproof actuator. So I figured manual would be the most practical, for my small boat. Lol
That turned out great, I have an old 10 footer I plan to build and I just might have to make an anchor like this. One question though, would it be possible to shorten the tower with the pulley and attach to line about halfway down the hinged part of the anchor? So that the pulley tower doesn't get in the way when pulling in a fish? And thanks for the videos and keep them coming, God bless and maybe I'll see ya on the water someday.
Hi, thank you for watching and the positive comment. You may be able to shorten the pulley tower, but I would probably keep it connected to the end of the anchor, because the stress is applied to both longer tubes, as opposed to just the center of the top one. When it plugs in the mud, it can require a little force to pull up. I have the tower extra tall, because I use it to mount the camera on when I am filming,and it has not been a big issue. If two people are fishing it can be a problem though. With a small jon boat, when I hook into a good fish, the front of the boat will actually be pulled towards the fish a little, so I have not had any issues with having to keep my rod/line over the pulley tower on the rear of the boat. Hope this helps.
Budget power poles for sure. I think a minn kota talon type shallow water anchoring system would be a lot less complicated and just as effective IMO. Great job though!
@@TheLowBudgetOutdoorsman I was thinking it would be easier to make a budget minn kota talon anchor than it would be to make the power pole type of anchor that you made. I can't afford either one lol
The wood was white oak, and it held up amazingly well. I finally retired it when I built my "new" jon boat, but it stayed sturdy and was used until last summer.
Suggestion...replace the all thread with a long/adult ski pole from a thrift store (You'll get 2) I got mine at Goodwill for $3.99 a pair I use the spare one as a separate stake out pole (Great for kayaks especially) Had you considered using PVC to build one so it can flex instead of snap like wood will or bend like metal will? Make the brackets out of 3/8" or 1/2" cutting board plastic or flatten some 3-8" PVC to cut out your brackets. No rot and no swell. Maybe find some city workers and get a scrap chunk of that thick blue/green sewer pipe. Maybe mount the spring on the inside of the bracket?
Hey there, thanks for watching! I did look for a ski pole, antenna or some other fiberglass rod, but couldn't find one (here in TN I have never seen a ski pole at a thrift shop. lol). I think PVC would work well, but I just went with stuff I had. I would guess that the PVC would actually be heavier than the wood, but lighter than the metal (pvc is sneaky heavy, relatively speaking, when it is the thick stuff). I tried different spring setups, and this seemed to work best, but I'm no engineer; so if there is a better way to do it, I'm game.
Hey, Thanks for watching. It drops down to about 7 feet deep (which is deep enough for what I need it for). If you would like it to go deeper, you could lengthen the long parallel sections, and the rod section, but you would also need a longer pulley tower on the boat to have sufficient leverage in lifting it). This length has worked very well for me.
The Low Budget Outdoorsman, thanks for the info. I think I'm going to set up a pulley system to make it a little easier to lift. Other than that I think I'm going to try 4 ft for the tubes. And everything else will be the same as yours. This is a genius system.
Great vid, but maybe give it a go with some Sunken Cypress. Being that stuff has already been waterlogged for so long and dries more even, its prone to less warping in the long run and probably a bit more applicable?
I have never worked with cypress. I have used white oak (and cut and milled it with my chainsaw, so it is very convenient) and it does work well. White oak has long straight fibers which makes it strong and flexible; and it is very water resistant (which is why it was used in boat construction for hundreds of years). There are probably better woods to use, but I just used what I already had.
A rod in the mud is a fine idea, but this whole contraption looks over complicated and heavy. Why not just have a 10" piece of steel pipe mounted on the transom that you can slide a solid bar up and down in. Have a simple hand levered lock attached onto the tube to hold the bar in position. You might have a flat plate on top of the bar to give it a little push in the mud which is easy enough to shove it 8-10" to hold. When you head home, just slide the bar out of the pipe section and you don't have 25lbs of stuff hanging off the back.
if the bottom spring wasflipped to the left side of the angle aluminum, i believe it would center the spring to load. then bailing wire wouldnt be needed.
Hi, thanks for watching. I'll try to get one to you within a week if that's fine. Shoot me an email, if you don't mind thelowbudgetoutdoorsman@gmail.com
Thanks for the tip. The oak I had milled previously with my chainsaw, so I have a pile just stacked in a shed, which made it convenient and cheap. Lol. Thanks for watching!
That's a great boat, much more capable out on bigger water than mine! But I can almost always find a small water place to fish from, if the wind is making the lake too difficult.
Yes, I used wood for an easy example, and that white oak lasted several years. But aluminum is indeed a more permanent construction material. Thanks for watching.
Thin walled square tube steel isn't expensive. Also you did this whole video and even took your boat out, but never showed how they work in the water. That makes me curious as why.? Cool remake of an expensive product. Power poles are way over priced. If made from steel the manual anchor you made would work good. Too much wind pushing on the front of the boat will snap the wood because of the mechanical advantage. Good build though.
Honestly, it was just an oversight on my part, I didn't even think about an under water view. Sorry. And, yes the square tubing, aluminium or steel would be better, especially on a larger boat.
@@TheLowBudgetOutdoorsman No apologies needed. I was just curious that's all. Also, with this double bar design that hinges at the boat, if the bow gets pushed around sideways because of wind, current or another boat wake, that puts a tremendous amount of torque on the hinge area, especially because there's only one anti-drift pole. Being made of wood, if it fails, it'll probably break and come apart. If made of metal and fails, it'll probably bend and still be hooked to the transom. *If you had two poles it now creates a different footprint and the stress load gets distributed to both poles and hinge areas*
Thank you Low Budget Outdoorsman! Been looking for a video like this one for a while, very helpful. You seems like a great father as well I applaud you! God bless!
Glad it helped!
Good work Daniel, admire your enthusiasm. When you start making adventure (travel) vids let me know, I have the perfect lake for you.
You did a very fine job explaining that. I am making one using a 12 actuator motor off a power wheelchair seat mechanism and hope to mount mine to my kayak. Yes, kayak. Hopefully anyway.
Awesome job can't wait to try it myself
This is awesome. Great job.
Really awesome video and Thanks for taking the time to simulate what you have , including the actual hardware .. you have made this easy to do ,, great job and also nice touch to include your daughter …. kids are hilarious in their honest and innocent way
I'm glad you enjoyed watching! Thanks.
Very nice build! Great job
Great idea and well executed my friend! Thanks for the video.
Glad you found it helpful!
I must say; That is really impressive.
Thank you! It really comes in handy on my small boat that gets blown around with the slightest breeze.
We got a celebrity in the house! ❤️
If you put 1 on both of the back corners it will be 2 points of anchor that will prevent you from turning in the wind. That's how the talon anchors are on bass boats anyway. Just a suggestion.
i'm going to have to save this for awhile i might need to build me one. great job.
Thanks for watching!
This was a easy fun build thanks Daniel
I am glad it helped. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Dude amazing video and great mechanical skills ive been searching for a good video/ baseline for building some of these!! Hands down urs is the best!!! Thank you by the way I probably watched a 100 of these lol
Thanks!
THANKS I'm going to to use your design using a broken street sign post. I predict the Preds will sweep the "Happy Feet"Penguins and there will be catfish in Pittsburgh!
That would be Spot on for something like a Bass Raider or even a kayak As well, simple enough Too
Awesome video, very well explained, Thanks so much, I will use different material but the way you explain it, with the measures an the material by hand is the key for anthers like me to understand, Thanks for your video. God bless.
Glad you found it helpful!
Nice! I will try to build one from broken composite hockey sticks. Greetings from Finland.
Hi, thanks for watching! Hockey sticks are a great idea. Eat some delicious authentic pickled herring for me!
Pretty darn cool man good job. 👍
Thanks!
Nicely done ✅
You are very innovative and your an awesome dad 😎
Thanks!
Great video, I'm a new subscriber, I like these type videos.
Thank you for subscribing!
Thank you for video hope to get started on it soon. Nice job explaining everything in detail make it lot easier thanks again 🐟
Been debating on making one myself but I'm not sure on it yet. Nice explanation
Thanks for watching and commenting! I'm glad it was a useful video.
Fiberglass rod from Ace True Value, in 1/2” or 5/8” at 8 ft or 10 ft long is what I’m using for a shallow water anchor. They sell them typically as bank poles here in the Midwest.
Thats Really Impressive Sir
Thank you!
Just found your channel cool stuff I have a friend who uses old laundry soap containers i.e. tide or something like that rinses them out good and feel them with cement and ties a rope around the handles with good knots and makes anchors
I am glad you found the channel, hope you get something useful out of it...thanks for watching!
Like the little helper.
I just put 2 half round 1 inch brackets or pipe hangers on corner of transom and then i use a piece of 3/4 steel pipe 8 foot long and drop in pkace on my 15ft startcraft works great just like a pole shallow water anchor
Well done
this is a great idea thanks for sharing
man imma patent that thing. thanks for the early retirement!
😆 glad I could help. Lol
Great job.
Thank you!
@@TheLowBudgetOutdoorsman You're Welcome
nicely done.
Thank you!
I like how simple it is mite see about making one for my Duck boat / John boat Thanks
You're welcome! Hope it helped.
Yep thats awesome
You can simplify everything by just installing two U bolts to the transom, about 8" apart, one above, the other beneath, and run a PVC pipe that fits through the U bolts openings as the anchor, at the bottom end of the PVC pipe you can epoxy a galvanized metal rod if you wish to penetrate better in the mud/sand, when it comes time to pull up anchor, just slide out the PVC pipe out of the U bolts and lay the PVC pipe inside the hull, the PVC pipe can also be used in shallow water as a pole to push the boat, just use the other end of the PVC pipe with a cap on to push against the shallow bottom.
If the PVC pipe flexes too much, you can make it stiffer by inserting a wooden stick (broom stick?) inside the PVC pipe, or an electrical conduit pipe (1/2" or 1" diameter) and epoxy the ends inside the PVC to stop it from rattling inside.
And if the PVC pipe while being used as an anchor wants to float, attach/tie a bungee cord to the PVC, and tie it to a cleat neat the back of the boat, that way it will act as a spring keeping the PVC sunk in place pushing it against the bottom.
Yep. Tired that before I went to this; but it wasn't as effective, nor nearly as convenient as this has been. It works, but I've found this to be a much better solution for the type, and frequency of fishing I use it for. On a cheap kayak, that works really well though... paddle on one side and a four foot section of pvc on the other when not in use!
Very interesting and thoughtful. One wish on this that would have been helpful was deploying it and how to drive it down. Cool build tho
ua-cam.com/video/dXcqTxe4mzw/v-deo.html Sorry for not putting it in the video, but here is how I operate it. The gate spring and its own weight drive it down into the mud.
So how do you get them to drive into the ground because aluminum isn’t that heavy.. or are you just scraping bottom
Genius
Genius!
Thanks!
very nice man! i want to do something like this with mine. id like to find a way to make it electric though
I thought about putting an electric actuator on it, but I was too cheap to spend the money on a waterproof actuator. So I figured manual would be the most practical, for my small boat. Lol
That turned out great, I have an old 10 footer I plan to build and I just might have to make an anchor like this. One question though, would it be possible to shorten the tower with the pulley and attach to line about halfway down the hinged part of the anchor? So that the pulley tower doesn't get in the way when pulling in a fish? And thanks for the videos and keep them coming, God bless and maybe I'll see ya on the water someday.
Hi, thank you for watching and the positive comment. You may be able to shorten the pulley tower, but I would probably keep it connected to the end of the anchor, because the stress is applied to both longer tubes, as opposed to just the center of the top one. When it plugs in the mud, it can require a little force to pull up. I have the tower extra tall, because I use it to mount the camera on when I am filming,and it has not been a big issue. If two people are fishing it can be a problem though. With a small jon boat, when I hook into a good fish, the front of the boat will actually be pulled towards the fish a little, so I have not had any issues with having to keep my rod/line over the pulley tower on the rear of the boat. Hope this helps.
Just found your channel, Go Preds!
Go Preds!
Budget power poles for sure. I think a minn kota talon type shallow water anchoring system would be a lot less complicated and just as effective IMO. Great job though!
Thanks. I wouldn't disagree with you. Lol. I just didn't have the money to spend on a commercially sold anchor system.
@@TheLowBudgetOutdoorsman I was thinking it would be easier to make a budget minn kota talon anchor than it would be to make the power pole type of anchor that you made. I can't afford either one lol
How has the wood held up over the years? Did you have to switch to metal? This design is awesome
The wood was white oak, and it held up amazingly well. I finally retired it when I built my "new" jon boat, but it stayed sturdy and was used until last summer.
Great Job. I likey...... Larry the Lizard.
Suggestion...replace the all thread with a long/adult ski pole from a thrift store (You'll get 2) I got mine at Goodwill for $3.99 a pair I use the spare one as a separate stake out pole (Great for kayaks especially)
Had you considered using PVC to build one so it can flex instead of snap like wood will or bend like metal will?
Make the brackets out of 3/8" or 1/2" cutting board plastic or flatten some 3-8" PVC to cut out your brackets. No rot and no swell. Maybe find some city workers and get a scrap chunk of that thick blue/green sewer pipe.
Maybe mount the spring on the inside of the bracket?
Hey there, thanks for watching! I did look for a ski pole, antenna or some other fiberglass rod, but couldn't find one (here in TN I have never seen a ski pole at a thrift shop. lol). I think PVC would work well, but I just went with stuff I had. I would guess that the PVC would actually be heavier than the wood, but lighter than the metal (pvc is sneaky heavy, relatively speaking, when it is the thick stuff). I tried different spring setups, and this seemed to work best, but I'm no engineer; so if there is a better way to do it, I'm game.
very cool, you could even get a cheap winch from harbor freight, for$39 and it comes with remote, and have it wireless and electric!
I had not thought of a cheap winch. Great idea!
How deep are you able to use this anchor in? I want to put this on my 14ft boat. This is awesome man!
Hey, Thanks for watching. It drops down to about 7 feet deep (which is deep enough for what I need it for). If you would like it to go deeper, you could lengthen the long parallel sections, and the rod section, but you would also need a longer pulley tower on the boat to have sufficient leverage in lifting it). This length has worked very well for me.
The Low Budget Outdoorsman, thanks for the info. I think I'm going to set up a pulley system to make it a little easier to lift. Other than that I think I'm going to try 4 ft for the tubes. And everything else will be the same as yours. This is a genius system.
Great vid, but maybe give it a go with some Sunken Cypress. Being that stuff has already been waterlogged for so long and dries more even, its prone to less warping in the long run and probably a bit more applicable?
I have never worked with cypress. I have used white oak (and cut and milled it with my chainsaw, so it is very convenient) and it does work well. White oak has long straight fibers which makes it strong and flexible; and it is very water resistant (which is why it was used in boat construction for hundreds of years). There are probably better woods to use, but I just used what I already had.
I want one
A rod in the mud is a fine idea, but this whole contraption looks over complicated and heavy. Why not just have a 10" piece of steel pipe mounted on the transom that you can slide a solid bar up and down in. Have a simple hand levered lock attached onto the tube to hold the bar in position. You might have a flat plate on top of the bar to give it a little push in the mud which is easy enough to shove it 8-10" to hold. When you head home, just slide the bar out of the pipe section and you don't have 25lbs of stuff hanging off the back.
if the bottom spring wasflipped to the left side of the angle aluminum, i believe it would center the spring to load. then bailing wire wouldnt be needed.
Thanks for tip...I'm no engineer. Lol
The idea is great. The engineering is FN scary...
Could you send me the dimensions of your shallow water anchor. Thank you
Would love to know how long it lasted?
It is still on my boat, and still serviceable. I haven't brought the video gear with me recently, but it still works fine. Thanks for watching!
Could you send me a build sheet? I know you describe it all in the video but I just wanted exact specs. Looking to do one with an actuator thanks
Hi, thanks for watching. I'll try to get one to you within a week if that's fine. Shoot me an email, if you don't mind thelowbudgetoutdoorsman@gmail.com
Drew Brandley 12v linear actuator is what i used works good
You should make a bunch of them and see if they will sell
I don't have time to do all that...I've got to go fishing. lol
Do you like the trashville predators?
it appears that I do. lol
What is the length of the threaded rod?
The length can vary a little, just make it about the same length as you make the upper support arms.
I mean it’s a cool idea but why is it made out of wood ?
I’m a little late by now but what size bolts and fenderwashers
Like diameter
Thanks for the question. I used quarter inch bolts with one inch fender washers. I used 3/8th inch bolts to mount it to the boat.
The Low Budget Outdoorsman thank you god bless
Try Cypress, cheaper than white oak and much better around water!
Thanks for the tip. The oak I had milled previously with my chainsaw, so I have a pile just stacked in a shed, which made it convenient and cheap. Lol. Thanks for watching!
Your welcome...nice video.
Are you close to Nashville?
I live about an hour and a half northwest of Nashville.
The Low Budget Outdoorsman like Clarksville. I live close to Dickson TN. Be awesome to get both our boats out and fish
Yeah. We could get out and fish sometime! What kind of boat you got?
The Low Budget Outdoorsman I have a 1650 Jon boat made by landau it's a semi v with a 99 Johnson 25hp
That's a great boat, much more capable out on bigger water than mine! But I can almost always find a small water place to fish from, if the wind is making the lake too difficult.
Now I don’t want to jump to conclusions but it looks to me as if you might be a Washington capitals fan?? 😉😜
lol
No remote?
Lol...nope!
@@TheLowBudgetOutdoorsman lol lol
A lot of work when a stick anchor would have done the same thing. Jmo
that's a lazy mans comment ,,, it wouldn't be as hands free or efficient , in fact cumbersome and more of a pain than anything else.
Dude have you ever heard of a stick anchor
All aluminum would be more durable
Yes, I used wood for an easy example, and that white oak lasted several years. But aluminum is indeed a more permanent construction material. Thanks for watching.
Too many washers lol
someone stole your idea and taken it as their own
Thin walled square tube steel isn't expensive. Also you did this whole video and even took your boat out, but never showed how they work in the water. That makes me curious as why.?
Cool remake of an expensive product. Power poles are way over priced. If made from steel the manual anchor you made would work good. Too much wind pushing on the front of the boat will snap the wood because of the mechanical advantage.
Good build though.
Honestly, it was just an oversight on my part, I didn't even think about an under water view. Sorry. And, yes the square tubing, aluminium or steel would be better, especially on a larger boat.
@@TheLowBudgetOutdoorsman
No apologies needed. I was just curious that's all. Also, with this double bar design that hinges at the boat, if the bow gets pushed around sideways because of wind, current or another boat wake, that puts a tremendous amount of torque on the hinge area, especially because there's only one anti-drift pole. Being made of wood, if it fails, it'll probably break and come apart. If made of metal and fails, it'll probably bend and still be hooked to the transom.
*If you had two poles it now creates a different footprint and the stress load gets distributed to both poles and hinge areas*
😂😂😂 weird… different strokes for different folks. 🤷🏻♂️