e158: WPL
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2018
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Great tip on the positive and negative switched on the motor, my WPL C24 has the same "issue".
Anytime
Very interesting video ! I did purchase all those items, now waiting for the 3 metal differential axles and drive shaft!
I have not seen those yet. Do you have a link?
Thank you now with the info I'll try again.
Best,
Ed
Sure thing!
Wow what a fantastic build video my freind, I learnt alot from this video, you done a great Job, he will be so happy with it 👍😁👍
Thank you Tony. Yes he does like it a lot. It is a great little truck.
Really enjoyed the video. Just bought my first wok b-16 military truck. Will be looking forward to see more videos. Actually want to start a hobby on this!
It really is a good truck. Glad you liked it.
Nice and simple. I wish there was a place to learn the simple electronics.
There are a lot of channels here that do that. So many goo resources on YT!
so great video..now I know how to upgrade the electronic...thank you my friend👍👍👍👍😍
Sure thing! Changing the electrical really transformed it. I have a driving video you may like.
That works so much better 👍
Oh yeah
Great video i just got the 4 wheel model rtr and im sure its gonna need these up grades👍👍
They are a good starting point thats for sure!
I got the 4 wheel RTR model, and the tires were very hard. Then got a kit and tires were a lot softer.
stock trans motor (130) is a bit wimpy, a lower RPM 180 torque motor (from/for WPL) are a lot better, especially for 6 wheels. next on the list for the B1 etc (straight frame rails!) is the motor/gearbox output sits up too high, stressing the U-joints. I used thicker aluminum flashing to make lowering plates, drop it down about 1/2" (coffee can bottom tin can work to make them too) will take the extreme angles out of the driveshafts. a little flat black paint you wouldn't notice unless you pointed at the trans lowering plates. it'll help keep U-joints from popping apart or breaking etc.
haven't had any problems with the plastic gears after making and putting spacers in behind the bushings. used a 1 hole paper punch through matchbook cover, CA'd them in with the bushings then drilled through the paper card stock... meshes the plastic gears a little tighter, and the bushings being .050-.060" further apart allow less wobbling around on those short shafts.
if you can easily get 3 x 6 x 2.5 mm plastic bushings to replace all 8, that'll do it too. I tried with bronze oilite type, and couldn't fit the shafts splines through them, so I stayed with plastic and greased the heck out of em. if the gears mesh TOO darn tight, just make a paper gasket for the input axle cover, it'll back the small bevel gear out a little bit.
the RTR's come with the harder tires, you can soften them up a bunch by mashing the heck out of them in your hands for about 5-6 minutes each, flipping them inside out and back along the way helps. doing it also scrubs away mold release so they lose the gloss.
when GearBest had the RTR B1 on sale for 20 bucks, I just couldn't resist! made a quick windshield to pop in it, some silver paint to the headlights and "winch cable", wiped out the WPL-B1 markers it had everywhere in white paint. it's the army green, and thinking about making a set of little slotted black-out headlight covers like I'd seen in so many WW2 type movies so an aircraft won't see it as easily to drop a bomb on it. left the stock Tx-Rx in it but did drop in the 3D printed dual geared N20 motor trans with a pair of 6v 400 RPM motors so it'll crawl not run.... I'd seen the stock ESC can't put out much and are prone to failing, run time is now like "forever" on stock 6v pack.
easy others... a servo plug into the receiver you can get the headlight LED's re-lit, even drill into the rears for adding 3 mm red LED "tail lights". the inside "foil side" of a potato chip bag makes pretty good looking side mirror inserts.
We will see what my brother in law plans on doing. For now he likes it as is. If he does anything to the trans it is installing the 2 speed.
I can't wait for the day that you are working on your king. Blackfoot RC truck. I will double record that video knowing that you are going to do everything it needs.
I am going to soon
Amazing
thanks!
oh... servo steering arm! slap a round rubber servo grommet into the drag link, and brass ferrule through center of that, gives about zero slop. Gabriel Silvaz showed that idea.
model nutty , you can get a two speed trans with a 370 motor and all metal links, bearings, gears, ect. for $50 at banggood. Shift servo and all.
model nutty , the new trans lowers the drive shaft angle, and center of gravity, it's a win all day.
Ill show my brother in law. Not my truck anymore.
Hope that you are going to do the motor too. I found that the stock one didn't have enough torque to turn all six wheels on mine.
definitely! same toy 130 motor that came in my 20 buck RTR B-1 was on the real wimp side for anything incline. the 3D printed dual geared N20 motor casing just wasn't very happy in my C24 with a pair of 12v 300 RPM units, so I picked up WPL's case with the dual geared N30 motors for it, and slapped the 3D printed unit into the B-1 with a pair of 6v 400 RPM N20's. over half the speed is gone but it'll sure crawl up hills and over stuff. still using stock Tx-Rx for B-1.
stock gearbox ratio really isn't quite low enough unless you pop in a lower RPM higher torque 180 motor (can crack the sleeve it pushes into). if they redid their gearbox with about 40% higher ratio it'd been about perfect for a toy type 130 motor, no creative game playing needed.
the C24 was a kit-build, powering it with a pair of 14500 (AA size) lithium ions saves some weight and not as delicate about being over discharged as a 2S LiPo (plus they're dirt cheap!).
Dont know, it is my brother in laws truck now.
Thanks for the video. Very informative. We’re you able to use the remote cane with RTR to that upgraded receiver? Also, got a diagram showing the wiring of components? Thanks much.
No I was not able to use the stock radio. I ended up using my usual fly sky. I'll do another build like this coming soon because I've got a lot of people that had questions so I'll try and create some thing with a little more information as well as wiring of the wiring is basically how you would wire standard RC car. I will elaborate on an upcoming video.
Well, I have to write to thank you here since this was my actual baptism in the RC world, if we do not count the micro RC I bought 20 years ago and never used and I'm now restoring.
So you made me going to get this cheap RTR truck that I'm now upgrading to the full, after a thorough static military modeller (again myself) paint job.
Naturally in my ignorance I also bought the same receiver (but I have no transmitter!) and Esc, but ended up with a full WPL Sound System v3 all-in-one upgrade with progressive steering and throttle, diesel fx and led lights I still have to install. I upgraded to full metal gear and full metal middle axle with separate shafts front and rear, and the same universal metal transmission you also end up installing. At this moment is running an 180 that makes a huge difference to the out-of-the-box 130 motor but I going to install the 370: even so it's a really enjoyable RC. My next improvement should go to the leaf suspensions, as I'd like to check the whole metal solution.
In the end this WPL model is going to cost almost as another HG P6xx or P8xx, but it also keeps me busy figuring out solutions and applying them on the workbench to finally have the satisfaction of seeing it run as it should, and gaining the experience of a dynamic modeller...
Cheers
I'm glad to hear it went well. I have not tried that combination unit that you are talking about but I will have to give it a shot now that you mentioned it has proportional steering and throttle
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Nice blue Renault 12 break.
thanks, I love those R12's
very nice, you have a dacia 1300 station wagon model. I have the whole collection "collectible cars" :)
Thank you! Yes I have a few others from that collection. I am a big fan of the R12 and its derivatives.
You used esc is precise to control speed as per throttle movement. It will heat up during used rc car .
Yes, this is the intended purpose. It does not heat up as the motor is rated at a lower current draw than the max on the ESC.
I’m trying to do the same to my c14 but struggling with a beeping motor (plus I’m adding a second servo as a gear change). Just wondering if you’re able to sketch up your connections on this as I’m not sure what connections from the ESC go where etc?
The ESC is the problem for sure. Let me guess, no instructions? Ill make a video on this in the next days as you are not the only one with this issue.
I will probably lower my motor/transmission in the frame to improve the drive shaft angles.
This may help for sure as long as you still have ground clearance.
Thank you for your little video, but would you have a link to buy the servo, and the esc and references?
Sorry I do not. I bought them all over the place but BangGood is the best place.
ru.aliexpress.com/item/1-WPL-B-1-1-16-4WD/32891161835.html?af=137322&afref=&cv=47843&dp=cf5b468c22dc1a51673417f7cc4d3d1e&mall_affr=pr3&spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.266.17423c00JB3IM3&subid1=DPlnKr2ATnM&aff_platform=link-c-tool&cpt=1537813908604&sk=cto8JdtI&aff_trace_key=3bdaf26be9aa48b695c36338a8e8d7ad-1537813908604-02454-cto8JdtI&terminal_id=1512075db069485fbc263ca1e8abb7c9
Love your vid! I recently purchased a JJRC Q60 (6x6)... I can really need some help or advice on what to buy to upgrade the electronics??? #desperate
On what to buy, it all depends on budget. This truck is perfect for basic electronics like i show in this video.
Im pretty dumb when it comes to rc things but does this come proportional throttle and its the turning you gotta fix? And if so which servo would be a good choice for this
It does come with proportional throttle I believe, it’s been a long time. The servos are standard micro servos but they all seem to come in slightly unique sizes. I need to make another video on these detailing the idiosyncrasies of upgrading them
Watching your video make me want to upgrade my truck. I have the same one as you have on the video and it is hard to drive and control. Do you have a list of all the electronics used on the video including the controller? Thank you
I dont. Most of the parts are on ebay for cheap. They are generic and many are un-named. The radio is the easy one. Look for a 3 channel, 2.4Ghz unit. Some are as cheap as $25 with the receiver. I used to have a list and then the links died, the brands changed and it was useless. So annoying.
nice viedo, well made. I got the 4wheeldrive model and i would like to know if i can put the servo using the original ESC because i don't want to change the radiocontroller too. please help me! ;) thanks a lot
Sorry man, all of the electronics need to be changed for a new servo.
I replaced everything. It really doesn't cost that much. I got a cheap Flysky GT2B 3ch radio with a rechargeable battery.
The stock radio is a piece of junk. And it doesn't support a steering servo anyway.
Remember, the servo needs to be a mid size 17g. Not a micro 9g or a standard size servo (doesn't fit). A new ESC is almost for free.
And don't burn the LED's. They must be wired in series on a new Rx.
Nice upgrade brotha!
Thanks!
Hey bud could you do me some picture of exactly where all the wires connect to and go
You know, I will make a video. It was a pain to sort these wires on that awful little ESC so I think a vid is in order.
is there anything wrong with the original reciever? or is the upgrade a big improvement? also what would be better a 180 proportional motor or a 370 motor?
Well this was a very early WPL vehicle. These early cars were just awful as they were not proportional. The new versions are outstanding! A 370 motor is better but will kill the battery faster.
Help please! I have a problem i have the same electronics but when im turning the wheel from transmiter right the wheels from rc truck are going left, fo you mabe know where the problem is?
You need to reverse the servo direction on the radio. It should be a little switch on the transmitter.
Nice work on your truck. Can I ask where you found the resistors. I tried eBay and other sites, no luck!
Everything is on ebay. Search for the resistance and wattage. Most of these are 100 ohm and 1/4 watt.
Could you do a upgrade video on the SZJJX RC 1/14 crawler
Oh sorry Ryan, I dont have one at the moment.
No need to remove the bumper to remove cab, just undo 2 rear cab screws and slide cab rearwards and up :)
Definitely get hold of a 180 motor, the RTR 130 is very weak. Best thing for these is the 2 speed trans with 370 motor, but then you'll need to upgrade driveshafts and axle gears.
*Edit - looks like it's already got a 180 ;)
Yeah the car came with metal axle gears and in the next part you can see that I do update the driveshafts. It is a neat truck! My brother in law loves it.
I’ve got the same esc your using, but I can’t get the drag brake to work.
These have a drag brake? Man you know more than I do on it already. I hate how they have no instructions. Maybe I need to investigate and make a video.
I just ordered the same esc the seller said the drag brake switch is on the PCB?
Great. I have wpl 30 amp upgrade esc but no clue which wire goes to which.
I need to learn more. Nice video. I'm trying to bv get more low end torque. Have 180 motor, stock board/esc may try lipo battery and 370 motor.
I'd like to upgrade the ESC on my Ready to Run b24 also. There's NO videos on UA-cam nor ANY helpful RC expert either on eBay, You tube or anywhere else that's kind enough to offer help, information on parts or sell items to me....I'm fed up. I've even tried looking at countless videos on here and they 're all a waste of time.
@@TheMasterNo6 I discovered one thing in my quest. My 180 stock motor failed in my new WPL B36. I removed screws from frame rail partially on one side only allowing removal of stock motor and motor support (not bolted in-just compressed in). I slid in 370 WPL METAL TRANSFER MOTOR /METAL GEARBOX in place. No drilling..holes already in frame. Bolt in. Soder 2 motor wires. Ready to run
Easy. Lost high end mph but gained low end super tractor power and torque. I'm very happy because these trucks are much nicer at slow speed.
Those ESC's have not manual and it is so annoying. Take a look close at the video and I think you can see where the wires go.
can i use the original transmitter with the flysky receiver. will they bind properly
Hmmmm...I doubt they will bind and on top of that I do not think the stock radio has the logic to send the signals to a servo.
Forget the original transmitter. It's a piece of junk and doesn't support a proportional servo.
Did you use the original transmitter with the new receiver?
No i did not. It is not compatible with the new receiver.
I tried that 20amp ESC with my WPL, tested it with a 7.4V battery, from a HUINA 1550 excavator, the ESC got real hot real fast, and the batter made a weird whirring sound.
Wondering why, as the product page claims that the ESC can handle up to 9.4V
These are so hit or miss. I would say 1 in 4 fail right away. The other 3 last forever. Shame
I wonder if this axle aplicable for 1/10 chassis like bruiser or highlift..
Oh no it is tiny.
where did you find those JST connectors?...great video
On ebay. I get them by the 50 pack
Thanks for the video ! Do these use 12mm hex on the wheels ?
Any time! No, i use the standard hex. I think it is 5?
@@AMPROEngineering thanks again
Do you think a mini tamiya 180 black motor would fit these or a slot car motor
Hmmmm, I dont think so. I want to say that these are smaller but I have little experience with that.
hi..may i know how to connect the switch?connect to baterry incoming?thanks
Well the switch came with the speed control and the battery also came with the same JST style plug so they all just connected together. I am sorry If I am misunderstanding!
Does this esc have a strong drag brake? I’m looking for a micro sized esc that will stop my WPL from freewheeling when descending steeply👍
Eh....I mean its ok but I would not say it is that powerful.
Hi, great video! would you recommend this type of ESC for a Radio Shack MadRat / Radio Shack 4X4 off roader ? I will run it with a NiMH 7.2 battery pack. I don't want to spend so much on a hobbywing ESC (around $25) and would like to keep the upgrade cost at minimum. hope to hear back.
No i would not. These are ok for super low current draw applications but not for anything that would require full throttle for more than a couple seconds. I just dont trust them.
@@AMPROEngineering thanks, I will order the hoobywing 1060... Thanks!
hey mate, im wondering if that esc has a lipo shutoff for when the lipo gets to low? ive managed to get the battery esc and reciever in the battery area and i dont want the battery to explode from being overdrawn. thanks in advance
It works with my wpl. Ik it's the stock battery if not you can probably fit a lipo buzzer in it easily I run one In mine even though I run li ion
great question. I honestly dont know since there is almost no info on them. I always run an alarm just in case.
@@AMPROEngineering okay cool, what alarm do u run?
My steering servo keeps running constant going one way dose not turn when I turn the nobe so I bought a new one
The stock one or an upgraded one?
AMPRO Engineering upgraded one
Hello bro
I have question can i use the 20A ESC with wpl b14 incoming battery(6V Ni-Mh 800mAh and if im not wrong its 5S like yours) will it works fine or burn?
Thats what I use. Seems to work well.
Hi, which battery (upgrade) do you sugest for wpl 6x6 with 370 motor? Originally there is 6v 700mah battery, can I put in battery with higher voltage? 7,2V?
If you are running the standard electronics, stay with the stock battery. Any more voltage and you could fry the electronics.
thx, which electronics should I build in so I can use battery with higher voltage?
@@wjtss HOBBY GRADE ELECTRONICS
Bought what it seems the same esc but keeps blinking red, no throttle response. What am i doing wrong?
I hate to say but it's possible it's just not good. I've bought about 20 of these and have had one that was dead out of the box and two that died within a few minutes. With that said all the rest have been perfect for years
If you wired those leds in series you wouldn't need those resistors sir. I enjoyed your video I'm looking to buy a B16 kit but not sure what to buy. Should I get the metal parts kit too? I see you upgraded the servo why? Thanks Don
Yeah I know what you mean but it find that the LED's are different brightness's. I would get the kit version. The stock "servo" is an on/off style and non-proportional.
Hi what electronics did you use and where can I get them
Well the ESC is some random one I found on Banggood. I need to locate it but they are all pretty bad soI hesitate to recommend one. They are 20A (amp) models. The receiver is a Flysky 3 channel unit and the servo is the one by WPL. I got everything on Banggood.com. Servo quality is ok for what it is. I want to replace it with a metal gear one.
Where did you get the linkage arm?
All ebay.
Hi. I just bought one RTR for 21 usd in china. Will be upstanding it. Can’t believe what you can get for 21 usd. Body and suspension is great. But does need some upgrades.
That is insane that it can be so little.
AMPRO Engineering the version with 4x4 was cheaper. Just at a toy market in Shenzhen. The are cheaper in the chinese eBay called Taobao.
Do you know where to get the parts you upgraded? My son's seems to disconnect and cause the truck to be undrivable.
I’m hearing that a lot about these trucks. He’s using a new 2 (or 3) channel radio, so it can be basically anything or any brand you like. His receiver says FlySky which is a popular brand so its a FlySky radio. Here’s a basic one: www.valuehobby.com/flysky-gt2.html
The electronic speed control or ESC is one of the 10 amp, 20 amp or 30 amp “cheap Chinese ESCs” which can be had for $10 or under, shipped. Those are all over ebay and everywhere else. As for the servo, I don’t know the exact dimensions but it’s a mini servo sold/branded by WPL; pretty certain it’s a “17g” servo. This one (from WPL site)::: www.wpl-rc.com/collections/electronics/products/17g-dpg-servo
Get them from the WPL website. They are awesome and the new electronics they have are great.
Hi, I can't understand where to insert the light plugs. Is it on the esc or the receiver? If receiver, then how? As the light plug only has 2 pins while the sockets on the receiver are 3 pin. Please help me out.
Great question. The plug on the stock lights is not going to fit on the receiver. You need to change it to a 2 wire JST male plug or use a 3 wire standard receiver plug. Make note to plug it in to the + and - of the receiver and not the signal wire. You will also need to add a resister to both negative leads on the LEDs to help drop the voltage from what ever the receiver is to what the white LEDs require, usually around 3.3 v. I have an enter video based on custom wiring. ua-cam.com/video/zwdCBZdfa00/v-deo.html
@@AMPROEngineering Thanks a lot! Just wanted to ask, if I dont put resistor on the circuit will the leds blow up?
@@saikatmauser Put LED's in series.
How did u put the servo to the chasis??
It drops into the stock location. This truck was designed for a upgraded servo from the factory so there was a spot for it.
Hi I have the same ESC and car as you but I can't find out which battery It can run can you help me?
They can run any battery with at most 7.4V. I wish they actually came with instructions!
@@AMPROEngineering ok thank you
are you using a 3channel receiver?
Yes but I am not using the 3rd channel on this one yet.
Where did u get the upgraded servo, esc and reciciver
All on ebay.
There are some kits you can get on BangGood that have all the electrical you need.
hi alberto can you post the resistor needed for head lights please thank you
Says 120 Ohm. You could probably get away with using only one on a common wire.
thanks dave
I have tried that and one LED is always dimmer.
I also use this to calculate the resistors. led.linear1.org/led.wiz
AMPRO Engineering OK Alberto thanks
What would happen if u didn’t put the capacitor for the headlights??
Oh it is a resistor. With out it the LED's will burn out.
@@AMPROEngineering If you wire the two LED's in series they will not burn out.
Svein Hanssen that depends entirely on voltage at the source and LED type. This truck has the stock LEDs (3.3v) in parallel at a 3V source. It is easier to add a resistor than to rewire it in series.
@@AMPROEngineering It's a easier to rewire two LED's in series than to add a resistor to both. The prewired LED's you can buy takes 3-6V.
Svein Hanssen the wires were cleanly soldered and quite close to the LED as both legs were sit off. Adding resistors was much faster and easier.
What ESC stand for, part of electronics... electric sesrvo?
Ok I gets... Electric speed control
There you go, yeah that is correct.
@@borivojetravica569 Not "I gets". It's I got it.
You use s at the end of a verb only for he she it (3rd person).
@@borivojetravica569 Electronic
How are you making out with the king Blackfoot front in parts in the super black Foot front and parts please comment back
I am building a house so that is not on the list. It will be a complete redesign when I get to it.
@@AMPROEngineering Yeah I've been waiting for almost a year I guess I could wait a little longer
This is very low on my list as The outlay for prototyping and development is probably around $500-$1000. These parts are available from time to time on eBay so I would keep an eye out.
I have the eat01 what esc fits that for a upgrade
Any of these cheap little ones I have pictured will. Search RC car esc 30A on ebay or amazon
I cant seam to find the battery that comes with this model and would like to buy a spare do you know a link to it. Or one i can change plugs on that wont burn up the esc that comes with it as i am very new to the rc upgrade game
Can i know what you use the remote?
Sure, I use a Flysky GT3C
Okey nice thank you
whats is your esc 10Amp, 20Amp or 3Amp?
30A
Can you share a link of where to get the ESC from? I can’t find one where I’m getting the B16 truck from (Banggood)
@@gchronis eBay
where i should connect led cable to?
The LED cable needs to have a new connector installed and a resistor to accept the 5-6v of the receiver. I have a whole episode on that too. It can plug into the +&- ports of channel 3 or the Batt ports on the receiver.
@@AMPROEngineering thank you
can i change the capacity of resitor to higher, eg. 180 ohm or higher?
i need a Rc truck please tell me sir
What were you looking for?
120 ohm resistors?
Yes, these help to prevent the LED's from getting too much power.
+AMPRO Engineering what happens if the resistor goe to the positive line? thanks.
could you put the intens links?
I have tried but the links don't last but a few days as the sellers always change.
@@AMPROEngineering enter the name or reference of the equipment used in the upgrade
what battery do you use?? link
Currently, the standard one. I am looking for something better though.
AMPRO Engineering what type n how many volt?
All I know is that it is 6V but not if it is Nimh or NiCd
@@AMPROEngineering
what if use more than 6v
like 7.4v? is it still normal?
With the standard electronics, they will burn up. With the ESC that I installed, it is capable of 2S lipo so that will work. Depends on the ratings of your electronics but again, it will fry the stock receiver/esc.
Show,,,,,,,,,
What did you want to see?
The show must go on :-)
This dont tell me anything. TELL WHAT PART# by PART i need,show a list! & were to find it.go slow
Part numbers are not available on any of these parts. All the links that I got the parts are no longer viable. Are used to have them in the description but now they've all changed. Your best bet is BangGood.
Nice video! Subbed! Check out my rc channel when you have a chance.
Thank you!