e160: WPL
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2018
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What a great gift. Can't believe how cheap and how far we've come from an Xmod .Thanks for sharing
That's the truth!
I have to say this is a great video. I have two WPL B1 trucks, both with stripped out driveshafts. Now the are awaiting upgrades like you have shown, axles, electronics, etc. Your videos will help with the upgrades, and the JJRC Q60 that I have coming shortly.
Glad you liked this! I really like this 6wd version!
I just recieved my full metal op up grade im going to check out my drive line fit. I did order a c24 kit and op up grades. Your videos are a great help on wpl products. Plus other rc vhicles
thank you so much. The upgrades on these are great but the quality of some of them is just awful so it can be a little scary.
@@AMPROEngineering thats true. Mine came with the cv style drive shafts
Ran into the exact same issue on the C24. I upgraded the axles too, so it went on there fine. I ended up taking the transmission shaft out, putting it in my drill and taking a file to the knurl.
Exactly, that works!
Great info and thanks for showing that it cant be a pain to upgrade the cheap ones. I got a b-16 kit lying around here. :)
Yeah, this is what you get when you pay so little. It is so far worth it though.
so far so good with shimming the axle input bushings for tighter mesh and less shaft wobble, trying to avoid the expense of metal gears and shafts (yet). its slower crawling with the geared N20-N30 motors, but nice slow steady torque and lots more run time. JJRC had WPL build an old looking "transporter" truck, junk electronics but really cool looking body shell!
Every WPL video you make , brings me closer to picking one up....damnit! 👍
I would get this one. It is way better than the 4 linked C24. Way less sloppy.
lol and here I am trying to make my C-24 MORE sloppy...
then again it kinda has to be for crawling/climbing.
that's the fun of these inexpensive models too though,
you can set them up a few different ways.
Oh....yeah for crawling thats good.
Thanks for making this vid, I cant wait to see more on the c24 I am thinking about getting one but I am going to see how yours workes out first LOL!
The C24 has been super annoying. I have replaced all links, the link mounts, axles and gears, front axle cups, electronics, added lighting, printed rear marker lights and tail lights, installed 2 speed trans, printed rims, installed oil filled shocks and printed mounts for the shocks. I was not planning on this! Haha!
idk, something about the link kit and recommended shocks didn't thrill me, not just the price tag. did attack the stock ones a little bit with sanding to let the snap-balls be a little looser and threw a little grease in them. can't wait to see the C-24 now that you've been SUPER ANNOYED with it, lmao.
Funny I bought those and had same issue I watched other people do it and your the first to mention the problem
I also could not find anyone complaining about it! Just wait until you see the video on the C-24 shocks...
for sure "haha", the side bolted stock ones sure make options more difficult. I'm waiting on the slow boat from China for: www.ebay.com/itm/M3-Nickel-Alloy-Steel-Hexagon-Cup-Socket-Cap-Head-Screw-Bolts-M3-4-3-50mm/332369896050?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=541374961525&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
hopefully the 50mm will be long enough to trim threads shorter and gain 3/32" to 1/8" of initial height, so tires don't rub/snag in the wheel wells. don't want more than that, it'd get MORE top heavy, but it might help for a little bit more/easier suspension articulation. waiting to see if 3 bucks can't "git r dun", would be less expensive and easier than finding/buying appropriate real shocks. the ones I've seen recommended for WPL sure don't appear to offer much in the way of travel.
edit: they arrived, only done rears so far but yes looks really promising! fronts now done too, a little more tinkering I might even get 1-3/4" worth of 1 tire lift/flex.
Great video as alwas 👍👍
Thanks!
Good information. From stock, my three trucks have two broken transmissions and one front axle. The very brittle gears have eaten themselves with just the out of the box setup. I like the trucks, but really want better parts.
yup, they definitely need to run slightly softer plastic into their molds, and the drive shafts could/should be 15-20% larger diameter overall (U-joints and all).
only real mods I've done to mine are geared N20-N30 motors (B-1 and C-24) that put less shock to the shafts and axles, slow steady torque that doesn't get the wheels (and everything else!) hammering violently. so far so good because of motor swapping, and shimming the axle input bushings for tighter mesh to the plastic bevel gears. when building the C-24 I used automotive undercoating two coats to whole underside body and waited a full day before mounting it, the truck doesn't clank and ring near as much, just happened to have a partial can of the stuff so why not?
I have bought the 2 speed trans so I am hoping that will be a good upgrade.
My pleasure!
AMPRO Engineering gud info sir i have Wpl c14 hilux plan to modified to metal ask only of where to i buy metal staff for both frt and rear
One driveshaft got broken when the truck drove down a small kerb. The driveshafts I bought did not have to be assembled, however I had exactly the same issues as you removing the old parts from the axle and the hole too small in the driveshaft. Additionally I had to file flats on the gear shafts as the driveshaft grub screws would not hold on the round shaft. I have an upgrade 370 motor unit I want to fit and the metal driveshafts fit perfectly on that. It also has flats on the output shafts. This was not a job that I enjoyed doing!
I just noticed that there is a middle bridge axle metal upgrade kit which includes driveshafts. I assume (hope!) that in combination with the 370 motor upgrade, the hole diameter issue would be solved.
I totally agree. It was not fun at all.
I'm now upgrading a WPL C24 to a 2-Speed gearbox unit. After discovering this annoying issue on my B36 Ural, I now have the usual problem of waiting a number of weeks until the metal gear wheels turn up. I wanted a quick fix just to check that everything was working and didn't want the pain again of filing the gears. So I came up with the 'hybrid driveshaft' - half plastic and half metal!! I prised apart the plastic universal joint at the axle and Dremelled down the square shaft until it fit inside the metal drive shaft half. I smeared some vaseline between the two parts. It all works well. I obviously have concerns about durability, but hopefully it will last at least until the metal gears come. In any case it was much easier than filing the pinion shaft.
The hybrid driveshaft lasted about 5 minutes. It gave me data on the steering & motor upgrades, but is not the answer. I see that Banggood is now selling a set of metal driveshafts with a file included. How tacky!!
Yeah I'll be mad too. You are a true rc guy like me. Over come and adapt. I did check with the manger and my good friend about the bruser clone. It is a tamiya clone 100% from a bruser or mountianerr release. I saw one in there shop. It's worth buying.
Very cool! Love to see!
I ordered the RTR before watching this video. Damn.. I should have gone for the kit and get the remote and all as I wanted it.
Yes the kit does have a few better items but at least with the ready to run version you'll see how far you have come when you upgrade it
hey ampro, i love your videos, seen all of them! very inspiring. i want to buy a tamiya kit, what’s your opinion on the DT-02 chassis? particularly the sand rover, would you make a video if you can get your hands on one
Well, to be honest I do not own one and in fact I have never even seen one in the flesh. What I do know is that a lot of people love them and there are a lot of upgrades available for them.
Have you happen to try tire upgrades if 1.7 or 1.5 RC tires would work or other ideas 💡
Oh no they would be massive.
A question for you. Can I ask how you did your windshield e.g. thickness of plastic and glue used?
Thanks in advance.
Best,
Ed
Hi Ed, I actually didn't touch that. This was the RTR kit so it was already installed when I got it. Sorry about that.
Would the shafts meant to be compatible with the 2-speed transmission and the metal axle conversion? It could be why others with the metal shafts never mention any problems. If it might be the case, then I'll get the shafts, axles and transmission all in one order.
Sorry, I should have called it the metal gear conversion rather than the axle conversion.
There is no info on that but I would think so. They should be part of the metal axle conversion but they are available separately so the sellers make no indication of this. Really unsettling for the novice user.
Yes, totally agree.
Hi AMPRO Engineering, I have been hesitating between getting this particular driveshaft (with a ring) and the one that you put screw and lock in (resembles the plastic one a lot but just made from metal). Which do you think holds up better from an obstacle-climbing point of view?
Get the ring kind. It is ugly but works awesome. The other is pretty and scale but there is no way it will hold up.
Thanks!
Hi, where did you buy the "more scaled" driveshaft from (at 4:53). Thanks
So...great question. I found them on ebay at the time but they were for a WPL and not a JJRC. Now I think you can get them for a JJRC 6WD truck. I would check banggood.
I bought the 2 speed gearbox for the c24 but dont know what shafts to use. Can you help me?
I think you need the upgraded metal drive shafts. I haven't installed mine yet so I do not know.
Yeah those shafts are made for the up graded gears. It takes about a 100 bucks to make that truck more or less hobby grade.
Agreed.
another "oh hey by the way", Gabriel Silvaz recent video showed, cut away most of the fake plastic leaf springs gives the axles a LOT more articulation. his other recent videos are showing how to make duallie rims and slice stock tires narrower to fit, which looks SO GOOD having 10 tires on the B-16, I'm really tempted to do it for my B-1.
edit: good job slapping shims behind axle bushings, they really should have done 2.5 mm thick for them all instead of 3x6x2. not worried about it being plastic bushings for as slow as these things really turn, just pack them with a ton of grease and call it art. the same issue with the splines are in the way of easily installing ball bearings, if anyone intends to, there are 3x6x2.5 mm ball bearings available that you can put into the input pumpkin covers, which are turning about 4x faster than the axles themselves.
edit again! Alberto, help? I have a really neat but TOY grade crawler, YYplay YY300.
they go for about 30 bucks, proportional throttle, bang-bang steering but it's 4 mode 4 wheel steering.... is actually a "hey wow cool!", but here's the problem.. 7mm size plastic hex mounts for the rims, that have kinda crummy stiff vinyl type tires having small diameter outside large diameter inside (blah-blah-blah). what I'm wanting is 7mm hex internal, 8mm depth for that, 2mm thick closed end with 2.5mm center hole, and the outside hex to naturally be 12mm.... so I can put much better quality standard tires on it, like 76-84mm OD for 1.9 rims.
the toy actually has plenty of motor+gear power, soft suspension (just spring bodies of course) and near 40 degrees worth of end to end flex, so the little thing could be pretty capable, if it had some of this really funny little thing called traction..... :)
I have seen it. I already designed dual wheels for this one if my brother in law wants to do that. As for the YYplay YY300, can you sketch something?
not really much to sketch, simple simple concept.
from bottom to top as it'd be printed:
a) 12mm hex floor (with 2.5mm center hole) printed 2mm thick,
b) outside hex wall thickness 2.5mm (5mm / 2) printed up 8mm taller than the 2mm "floor with center hole" = 10mm total height.
(gives 7mm internal hex hole, 12mm hex solid outside)
that's about as clear as a sketch, I'd hope!
it'd slip onto the 7mm plastic hex axles 8mm depth, but outside dimension being 12mm hex for typical 12mm hex rims to fit onto.
the 2mm thick closed end with center hole sandwiching it in place so it cant slide back on the 7mm hex to lose connection. for a little strength just use mounting screws as long as possible down the 7mm plastic hex's so it has a little steel in there.
edit: very similarly, same could be done for WPL 5mm plastic hex shafts, making the side walls 3.5mm for printing. why? for giggles of course! drop in a really high RPM FK-180, lower a C-24 (short tubing on shock rods inside the shock bodies), slap a set of drift tires on it and carefully file or dremel the front hub carrier stops for a little steeper steering angle. it could be hysterical to see a WPL B-1 successfully drifting, actually a better candidate for battery weight being up front under the hood (steering traction) and light at the rear axle. totally opposite the goal of the YY300 where I want more traction happening.
Oh I see what you are saying now. Just to allow you to adapt the standard hex.
yupyup!
other stuff.... the packet from that SLOW boat from China arrived (yaay!) just did the two rear shocks. trimmed threads to 1/4", they give 1/4" total more shock rod length (C-24). trimmed off the solid ends of the stock coil springs... it's sitting maybe 1/16 to 3/32" taller in back, seeing near 1.5" of flex already (lift 1 wheel but not other 3), need to get doing the front shocks. in other words... not really increasing ride height as much as gaining more negative suspension travel so it can flex/twist a little more than stock. not much a fair comparison, stock B-1 lucky to get 1/2" lift at 1 wheel, 3/4" cutting away the plastic leafs, just did it.
edit: front shocks done, gained a little more lift/flex
Jeeeesh it would be nice if you would show a part number on the parts & WHERE to get them. I cant find anything to do an up grade as i DONT KNOW WHAT PART NUMBER OR PART, you dont tell.
There is no part number available for these and the seller I bought them from is no longer selling them. This is a fundamental problem with these Aftermarket parts being sold through third parties. It’s unfortunate but I don’t tell because I cannot as I have no idea what that information is other than look for something like that.
can you put a rc 4wd front bumper with a real winch on these??
I doubt it, these are way too tiny unfortunately.
Hi i buy the metal axles wpl but i notice the big clearance when put the wheel on front it's ok that????
Hmmm, I wish I could say. Are these the machined axles or the cast ones? I have the cast aluminum ones and they look almost stock.
In you face page i send a video with the problem thanks
They will last longer, as you like classic cars, please check out my video of me and my grandads 1970 Austin healey that I will release on Sunday
Nice! Ill check it out!
You really should have bought new steel axle gears!
I didnt because they are sending over a different axle with an amazing new feature.
This is not in your WPL folder.
Yeah I noticed that.