2008 Escalade AWD Rear Main Seal Part 4(Last): The Rear Main Seal Replacement
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Final Part of the series to replace the rear main seal in the 2008 Cadillac Escalade AWD with the 6.2 Liter engine. I had already removed my oil pan to fix the pick up tube O-ring leak causing low oil pressure (that video is on my channel too) so there was no need to use the seal alignment tool. With the oil pan in place it would probably be necessary
Great video Steve! Don’t know what you do for a living, but you are a hard worker!
Thanks ! Yep, my regular job is a desk job, so working in the shop is actually a de-stressor for me 😃. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs I totally understand. I’m a retired pro Mechanic. Once I took a office job for 3 years. Every night I’d be in my garage doing mechanic work to get my fix. You have a nice place and set up to work in. Keep up the great videos.
@@TheBamayaker , thanks man ! Yep working on vehicles and equipment is in some people’s blood I think, lol. There’s only so long I can sit at a desk before I start feeling like I want to take something apart…if only just to see how it works, ha,ha
@@StevesDIYs we have a 2011 Escalade with the 6.2 great cars.
Hey Steve, Thanks buddy. Great video and documenttion.
Thanks man and hope the video helped some 👍. All the best ! Steve
Hey Steve great video. Whats the torque specs on the rear main seal bolts
Thanks ! I can’t remember what the bolt size was for it, but for bolt torque specs for bolting into aluminum, I use the general guidelines like these: www.southwestairsports.com/ppgtechinfo/general/torque_values/torque-values.pdf . At the bottom is the list for metric ones and I usually go with the Non-Critical list to the right for seal plates and things into aluminum. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve
Good job sir
Thanks man ! It was a pretty lengthy job, but necessary when they are leaking really bad. Still issue free after the fix though 👍. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Did you change the oil diverter barbell out while in there? I went ahead and got one to put in. Due to age the rubber o-ring on the diverter in mine is most likely cracked.
Hey man ! No, I didn’t change it out, but in hind sight I probably should have while I was already there just in case. Based on the other seals and orings that have gone bad and needed replacing, I’d say it would have been a good thing to have done. All the best ! Steve
Is it good to just buy the rear main seal cover with the seal already on it? I heard they start to leak still but just wanted to make sure. I got the Dorman brand cover with seal.
Hello, yes, the seal and flange kit is the easiest way to go for the rear main seal replacement. Mine came with the plastic disposable cup that slips over the rear main bearing to be sure the seal lip doesn’t get damaged so that was a nice part of the kit I got as well. The install is really the important part…being sure that the seal centered up and has equal pressure all the way around the main shaft.
@@StevesDIYsthank you sir your videos have helped me save a lot of money. I'm on the install part now. What did you scrub the crank with when you were cleaning the gasket off.?
@@bakihanma7247 thanks man and glad the videos have helped some 👍. For cleaning the crank shaft, I believe I used a piece of Scotch Brite scrubbing pad like what is used in the kitchen for scrubbing pots. The blue colored ones are scratch free,but 5he green colored ones will work as well if your careful not to scrub too hard.
@@StevesDIYs sweet man your the best. My crank is a little rusty and the scotch Brite sponge couldn't get it off. You think 2500 grit sandpaper would be okay to get that off? Sorry for all the questions man also I just got the O-ring it fit perfectly 🤙
@@bakihanma7247 yep, I would think some very fine sandpaper would be good to smooth it out…much better than if the rust was left on the crank for sure 👍
Great job!!!!
Thanks man ! It takes quite a few hours for the whole job, but well worth it in cost vs. having to pay a shop for the work since most shops or dealers have such high hourly labor rates. Plus, I like seeing how they put everything together anyway so as long as it’s not too aggravating, it’s actually kinda fun DIY’ing on the cars and trucks, lol. All the best ! Steve
I have a 2009 yukon deinil short body with the 6.2 liter it's good to know these things if i ever have to do this im gonna do it myself!!
So what ultimately fixed the leak? Mine is similar and quite severe. I’ve already done the oil pressure sensor, valley pan gasket, intake gaskets. My leak is above the pan and running down both sides of the rear of the block near the top with the fly wheel dry so I’ve ruled out the rear main. I’m leaning towards valve cover gaskets but I’ve never seen them leak that much at a time. Any opinion?
Hey man ! Yep, it does sound like the valve cover gaskets are next in line for change out. Mine was leaking down both sides at the back as well from the valve covers (it was really easy to see with the transmission out to do the rear main) so I did them shortly after I finished up everything on the lower leaks. Here’s a link to the video for when I did mine…the covers don’t bolt down very tight into the gaskets so as they age and shrink, they seem to start leaking really bad: ua-cam.com/video/7gHizT6P2hU/v-deo.html . Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Thanks for the response! I grabbed some gaskets I’m going to go ahead and swap them out thanks again!
Hey Steve. What was the time that took you to do that job? Take apart and put back together?
Hey man ! Since I was also doing the video and had to stop each time I changed the camera angles, it took probably twice as long as it would normally take, but to do the whole job (all the things in the 4 part series), I’d say about 10 to 12 hours to take apart and replace the stuff, then about 8 hours to put it back together. The rear differential was a pain to get the bolts off and then get it separated from the transmission and took a couple of hours by itself as it had never been off there. Putting it back on took like 15 minutes. Hope this helps 👍. Steve
@@StevesDIYs I have a 07 Yukon Denali what the usual cost to have this fixed??
@@StevesDIYs Sorry for the really late reply. i ended up not doing the rear main when i did a bunch of gaskets, but going to tackle it this going around on it. thanks for the information.
@@SDKX1 Thanks man ! Let me know how it goes 👍
@@swthero$2k
Hey STEVE I need your help on my 650i it’s just like yours I’m in limp mode and I’m don e with the steelership I put a new valve cover gasket on new coils new spark plugs new pcv new coolant transfer pipe now my intake manifold been making a click sound ever since I took that off aint use to do that and my throttle seems like it’s off ever since I took it off to clean it new coolant hoses no more leaks now but now it’s in limp mode half engine keep popping up this is crazy
KINGME , hello, man sorry to hear you’ve had so much going on and now it’s in limp mode too. I’ve never had mine go into limp mode before, but INPA or one of the good scan tools should be able to narrow down the problem pretty fast. If even just one knock sensor or the throttle position sensor fails to read properly to the computer it will make the car go into protected mode, but those are only two of a hundred different things that will cause it (could be anything in the air or fuel intake system to the variable valve timing). Have you scanned it yet to see what codes it is throwing? Is the clicking coming from the throttle body or at the top where the vanos solenoids are? If the throttle is clicking, it might be an issue with the actuator gears or something (not really sure how these look inside as I’ve not had my throttle actuator apart on the 650i). It’s really hard to tell until you can get the error codes for sure. Sorry I couldn’t help much, once you get the codes, maybe post back up and it might be ones that I’ve seen before, Steve
Steve’s DIYs ok I’m going to get the codes and then get back to thanks I really appreciate u dude just tired of going to the steelership I’m done giving them thousands of dollars already I’m finish it DIY from here on out and yea I replace the knock sensors already this year thanks again bud your awesome 💪💪
Yea STEVE my limp mode went away I went to BMW yesterday bought a battery new Alternator but now it’s doing what u said starting up cutting off I think I’m a have to do the Reset I drove it yesterday ran smoke but then the engine light keep going in going out so I wanna do what u said how do I get INPA and thanks again I’m going on BMW forum today
Hey Steve what usually the cost and labor on a job with the rear main seal?? I have a 07 Yukon Denali AWD 6.2 what the cost for that?
Hello, I’m really not sure how much a shop would charge since I did the job myself and didn’t really keep up with the hours. It wasn’t complicated and didn’t take any special tools so I would think most smaller garages would be able to handle it. If I had to guess, I would say $800 to $1200 usd simply because there’s so much that has to be removed to get to the rear main seal....the parts were not expensive so it would be mostly labor. If you do get an actual quote for the job, Comment back with what you are quoted if you would as this may help others wondering the same thing 👍. All the best ! Steve
Cost me $1280....2007 cadillac escalade
Thanks for the comment with the cost 👍. Provides a good reference for folks. All the best ! Steve
how about just retork the bolts THATS THE PROBLEM ON THE REAR ENGINE COVER BOLTS GET LOOS SS
Well, it takes quite a few hours to remove everything just to get to the rear main so at that point I wouldn’t risk just torquing down the bolts only to find out that it was the actual seal, but others might risk it I guess. The new cover and gasket aren’t expensive so I’m not sure why it wouldn’t just be replaced while there. Mine has about 180k miles on it so the seal was most likely leaking. All the best, Steve
I’m serious I have the Vulve cover got heated and band now I have an oil leak & and more
Mohammed Alhashim , hello...I don’t really do chat calls (I think your comment got linked to the wrong video on the channel and you are referring to one of the BMW 650i vids), I just try to answer comment questions about the issue I was having that I made my DIY video about. It’s really hard to diagnose these cars unless you have the INPA software or a BMW specific scanner unless it’s very simple things, but there is a pretty good BMW forum called Bimmerfest.com where owners post up questions and issues they are having. Since it is a big forum group, most every issue has been encountered in the past by someone so they usually have a good answer. It will also let you put pictures and videos on it once you register so it’s easier to see the problems. Hope this helps 👍, Steve
Thanks a lot sir
Hey Steve can u check this code out for Engine-DME engine electronics ME922 on my 650 I convertible thanks buddy I don’t even no what that means
KINGME , hello, I’ve not had to deal with that fault before, but it sounds like the DME (motor electronics module) has a communication error...it’s module number is the ME9.2.2. I did check a car one time that had a no start condition and it was because the DME was out of sync to the CAS module so it would not let the car start because they would not communicate. It took using INPA and resetting both modules to get them to talk again...was definitely not something I was familiar with...just happen to try to reset the modules and it worked. Your issue might be a good one to post up on Bimmerfest.com (it’s a forum on line where other users provide help if they have knowledge of an issue someone posts about). Sorry I couldn’t be much help, but maybe one of the other owners on that forum has run into it.
Thank u so much