Weber DCOE, Part 2C Spindle , linkage and intake manifold
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- This i the last video out of a series covering the weber DCOE. Here we install a new spindle and linkage, some basic adjustments and the installation onto the intake manifold.
Thanks so much for this series. It has given me the confidence to strip and rebuild the triple 45 setup on my Jaguar engine. Your presentation, editing and explanations make this the best series on the Webber DCOE on UA-cam.
This is best carburetor video series on the UA-cam that I see seen so far. Thank you.
Outstanding. Use of organization and craftsmanship with spoken English is superb. A veritable master of his craft.
You are getting a lot of positive feedback on this video series, and it is all 100% deserved! The series is very educational, the camera work is first class, and the calm and clear way you explain the progression leaves no room for misunderstandings. Can't wait for whatever comes next!
Much appreciated! I always try to get the most out of it... sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. Filming , working and talking is not always that easy on you own.
An old guy now, Ive been watchin BS on YT for longer than a lot these folks have been alive. A couple of videos in, and a quick look at the reviews....I gotta say, Im impressed with both the information and the presentation is outstanding in its consistency everything is fine tuned from the lighting to the audio. Ive seen about an hour and a halfs worth of your videos, Now Ima start all over at the beginning, watch them all the way straight through. Then tomorrow Im going to tackle setting up the new triples on my 260z. I think I might film it myself but just to make sure I put errything back like it goes. cuz cameras dont like me. Retired now so I got from now on to get this right. Thanks.
Thank you, good luck with the stripes
These may be the best instructional/informative videos that I have seen on YT. I'm not usually a fan of any DIY longer than 5 minutes, but this is worth every second. THANK YOU for doing these videos and explaining so well!!!
From part 1 up to the last video, i did'nt skipped. I enjoyed watching it. Very informative. Thank you very much.
Je me délecte de vos vidéos. Vous êtes de la même trempe que certains génies tel que Léonard de Vinci.
Artiste, scientifique et technicien accompli, tous les champs d'étude semblent vous intéresser.
Une autre corde à votre arc : la vulgarisation »»» digne des plus grands pédagogues.
Tout est propre, net et précis.
Bravo !
Thank you so much, but I am just a simple guy who likes challenges
Just superb videos, i have a Opel Ascona B rallycar with old Weber 45mm, and they need service/rebuild. Thanks for this great videos. 🏁
I love this video series. You show a perfect example for how sometimes “universal” parts require a bit of fiddling to make work properly. Very good job.
Glad it was helpful!
Best video series about these great carbs ever!!
Glad you like them!
Arguably the best instructional videos I have come across on the internet. I was going to send my carbs out for a rebuild, instead I am now certain I can do it myself -- with you on my screen for company, of course. Thank you!
Thanks for the comments, and enjoy
This is the best teaching tool on the Weber I have ever seen. I love the fact that you showed how to do it even with the problems you encountered actually working your way through the problems. That makes it more realistic to me. I will make one suggestion you can try when installing any bearings, that is you could have tried freezing the shaft and heating the bearings. That has always worked for me and many times you can install things by hand. I hope you make more videos. I can't wait to see whats next! I have a 45 DCOE with 36 chokes, 115 main jets, 180 correction tubes, emulsion tubes are F15, idle jets are 50, F15 air correction, and 35 pump jets. I drive it just around town not going over 4,000 RPM. Staying around 3,200 to 3,500. Any suggestion I can try would be great! I have a few extra jets laying around.
Thanks for comments Matthew, Indeed I have used in some cases the fridge and oven as you state . That works well, here I did not. except for the bearings. What type of engine ? Power Curve / Camshaft ?
Good to hear that you accurately identify the correct use of the idle speed screw @16:15. As per the Weber Manual, it is there to position the throttle plate edge to cover the first of the progression holes not to change the engines idle speed due to some other tuning issue. I see so may videos/web documents that have people re-adjusting the idle speed screw after making other adjustments such as the idle mixture etc.
Thanks for the comments Andrew and indeed there is some misconception on that
Morning Steve. Great informative video on the Webber carb rebuilds part 2C 👍🏻 Love your teaching explanations as it's very addictive. Perfect watching when most people are on lockdown 😩 Thanks Stevie 😎🇬🇧
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video series. I just learned so much from you watching this. Especially about sealing the bearing as you install them.
Glad you enjoyed it
Very good series, this engine is going to be awesome when you finish it.
That's the plan!
Fabulous explanation and practical application…… I’ve got a xke with these and am about to reco them…thanks so much
Thanks for the comments
The satisfaction when the bearing cover was knocked into place with the socket :).
Thank you for the comments
Fantastic job، In every video there is more interesting and fun. Best Regards
Thank you very much!
Thanks so much for these videos - perfect explanation!
Thanks for the comments
A master at work. Thanks for the video series. My 48mm webber used to stick on the underside plunger on the RX4 coupe I drove in the 1980s', I had to use light oil on it to free it up.
My current '92 Suzuki Swift 1.3single carb motor needs reduced idle after I got the car more efficient than the factory set-up via tuning several things, and it does not have a traditional idle screw, and I can't reduce the idle any more from the outside. Are you familiar with that carb? how can the idle be reduced further without changing the fuel/air settings as it accelerates?
I MIGHT NEED A CONSULT/help, (but first I have one mounting screw that won't come off on the back side, and has rounded off in the attempts to get it off, might need to weld another nut onto it (fire risk), or the whole engine needs to come out to get under the carb with vice grips or something??)
Fantastic video series! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad you enjoyed it!
After watching your videos I did notice one thing with the intake side of the Venturi. One of the venturi had a ring around the outside that fits nicely into the opening the other left a small gap. On my 42 DOCE carbs that gap is filled with the intake stacks which slide nicely into the gap. I have the angled velocity stacks. Hope that helps a little and thanks again.
Great point!
great job!! I hope you will make a video when you start it up!! I can't wait to hear it!!
That's the plan!
@@D3Sshooter where's the tuning part?
Very nice rebuild on those webbers....cant wait till she purrs
TXS
Hello great video!
Question: Do I need to put grease or lubricant at all in the box with the spring and the spindle shaft running through it?
Hello, Steve! I am a fellow UA-cam Creator who just purchased 2 Dellorto DHLA 40s. Because of you I dare to make a restoration/installation video myself. Is it ok if send my viewers to your videos for more in-depth information? Thank you!
another enjoyable lesson on Weber's. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I really liked this series, well done. Looking forward to seeing that engine run. Regards, Solomon
Glad you enjoyed it
Steve - did you do a video with the engine running / initial tune up? I was looking for Part 3 but I couldn’t find it? Did you post it under something else? Many thanks again for such excellent videos! David
Not yet, and I know I should do that real soon, well lets say tape it
Steve, many thanks for your answer to my D.C.O.E. 40 problem.
I think perhaps the none balance between barrels is because one of the barrels has a pipe off its manifold, to power the brake servo. (The engine is a V4 with a cross-over manifold, and a carb on each side of the head).
Don't know if it is worth changing jets etc. to balance up the induction readings. Can you give me your thoughts? best regards, Jo Dauth.
Jo, That could be the case. The induction is not going to change with the jets , only if you change the venturi. But I would look for the vacuum leak on the servo ( maybe a membrane leak).
@@D3Sshooter Many thanks for that Steve, Regards Jo.
I don't loctite the butterfly screws until I know the plates are exactly where they belong... If your idle is too high or you have an off-idle stumble, the throttle plates are probably not closing well enough. I like it when I can get the idle way too low and I need to bring it up to proper idle JUST before the first progression hole is uncovered... This can eliminate that off-idle stumble. The last time I did this, I fitted the throttle plates very, very carefully and even used very thin aluminum foil as feeler gauge to make sure the gap around the plate was totally even. This gave me a 450 rpm idle! Then, the idle screw moved the throttle plates to barely in front of the progression hole at about 850 rpm, so the instant you give it gas, it gets it from the progression hole. No stumble. It feels like fuel injection. When you know it's good, loosen and loctite one screw at a time to keep the plate in its perfect position. Great channel!!!!
Good point. At this moment im experiencing a flat spot in an off idle situation with my DCOE's.
I can cure it by enrichening the idle to cover the flat spot. But the root of the problem is that I have to close too much the butterflies for a decent idle speed, and I pass al three transition holes. So when I lightly press the gas, transition holes are still closed and a lean spot appears.
In my case, I think the problem is with the intake manifold, which is called "compensated". It has internal grooves that communicate the six cylinders. By this way, at idle, when a cylincer si pumping air, it does it from at least, more than one butterfly.
Another bad issue is that when I set the idle screws for a mixture close to stechiometric, engine doeas auto run, after shut off... SO I have to use 11:1 mixture at idle to avoid auto run.
Great series! Would love to see the third video!
Thanks for the comments, that should be out except the actual road tuning
@@D3Sshooter Would you mind posting a link? I dont see it on the channel. Looks like im not the only one who cant find it judging from the other comments.
Your videos are great Steve!
Thank you Steve, very well done.
Hi there, Ive really enjoyed your webber series. Brilliant. I can't see to find part 3. The tuning of the carbs??
Any advice, it doesnt seem to be in your video list.
Many thanks,
Ewan.
Coming soon! asI am still waiting on the paperwork for this car.. And I need a road test to do the final adjustements
@@D3Sshooter Brilliant thanks. Im really looking forward to it. Your a very knowledgable guy. 👍😀
@@D3Sshooter Did you ever made the video? I'm unable to find it. Btw: Brilliant channel! I like you videos and the way how you explain things! And the best weber videos I have ever seen on YT. You helped me a lot to refit my Webers on my Pinto in my westfield!
Steve, thanks for the videos, from Scotland. Have a Saab96 with twin 40DCOE's Can't seem to get the same air induction readings on each of the carbs. E.G not carb too carb, but barrel too barrel on the same carb.Can that be adjusted in any way?
The induction reading is the result of the throttle ( butterfly position) and that is on a singel spindle. So both will always be in the same position and no adjustment can be made to offset one from another. Normally the readings should be the same if both barrels have the same jets, emulsion tube etc... Did you check ? and did you check that main and second venturi are the same numbers for both barrels ? If you did all that and its all the same, then you might need to adjust the idle mixture screw for each barrel on idle... but that is about it... If you still have a difference, check for vacuum leaks on the intake manifold to the cylinderhead and to the DCOE. Aso , do a engine compression test and blowby test. And adjust the valves.... as it might be that those values are off on that one cylinder.... and then you will have the same issue with the induction
@@D3Sshooter Many thanks Steve, that is most helpfull.Engine was rebuilt not long ago, so I would think(and hope)! that it is just a vacuum issue on those flexible mountings.
Thanks again Best Regards, Jo Dauth.
The spindle was not fit for purpose or did they send you the wrong parts excellent video thanks
That was an issue indeed, and no that was listed as standard for Italian webers, unless they mixed them with Spanish webers... I got two and both had the same problem..
Thanks a lot, very informative, hope one day 240Z with this babies.
Wow , that is nice the Z240
Steve, thanks so much for these videos which have given me all the info I needed to strip and rebuild the 45DCOE in my MGB. They are so clear and the pace is just right! I had a problem baselining the size though as my manifold set up has one carb for a four cylinder engine. Not on the graphs in the manual I think, or am I understanding this wrong? May I add my voice to all those requests for a video on Weber tuning?
Thank you for the comments, Peter . In your case you have two inlets on the manifold, so one element of the dual carb feeds two cylinders. That is in the book if I am not mistaken. Of course I could be wrong , as I have not seen your intake manifold structure.
@@D3Sshooter I’m looking at figure 32 on page 22 of the Weber manual for “sports engines” which states it’s based on one carb feeding each cylinder. I have just the one carb, so it’s feeding two cylinders per barrel. Maybe I should be looking at table 21 which is for more general applications, but I’m thinking that my MGB should be redlining at higher than 5000 rpm illustrated. Anyway, thanks again for the great videos, I’ve really enjoyed my project thanks to the confidence I’ve gained watching them.
Beautiful videos. Top notch. Can you share the link to part 3? I still can’t find it.
Not produced yet, issues with the license plate and papers of the car , hence I can't take it on the road for a test ride
D3Sshooter ok thanks. I followed another guy’s video on initial set up. But I am eager to see how you tune them after a test drive. You are a great teacher.
Great video series! The best explanation i have ever seen.
Where do you order your parts? Where do you live? I see dutch and french on your carburator cleaner 😀
Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks for the comments, Parts are from the carburateur winkel (nl). I life in Vlaanderen, that is why you see the products with different names.
@@D3Sshooter Ah dan kan ik gewoon nederlands tegen u praten want ik ben van Oost-Vlaanderen (Lebbeke).
Ik heb vorig jaar een set 40DCOE Webers 2dehands gekocht en begin dit jaar gemonteerd op mijn BMW 2002.
Jammer dat uw video toen nog niet op UA-cam stond want ik heb ze gewoon gewoon gemonteerd zonder echt iets te controleren.
Helaas nog geen testrit kunnen maken door de corona maatregelen.
Bedankt voor uw bericht :-)
Good videos on the DCOE, but cannot find Part 3, the fine tuning segment. Can you direct me to it? Perhaps it’s been deleted or moved? ...confused.
You are right , it is no longer on the portal... I did load it once as it came very late... Will look for it
Awesome video👍 the shaft your looking for, with the hole, you can find on ebay.
Wonderful series! It's given me the confidence to attempt a full strip and service on a pair of Webers I have on my Tiger SuperSix. They desperately needed it! I have encountered a problem though. I have replaced the spindle and fuel pump actuating cam with replacement parts (long story!). The cam only has a hole drilled in the front. This means that the pin won't punch through again. Anyone else come across this? Do I need to drill the cam myself?
Hi all, in case anyone stumble across my post looking for answers to the same question... The answer is yes, many of the replacement cams come drilled on one side only and you need to drill the second hole once the cam is on the spindle.
Lovely job so far!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hey, just wondering where the last part of this series went. Up till now its been some of the best stuff I have seen on Webers but would love to have seen the promised episode on tuning.
Thanks for the comments, indeed that part is still outstanding.. as I need to have a test ride with it , and so far I am awaiting the papers. The previous owner lost them, so it one hell of a paper-mill to get this sorted . Once I have them, I need to request a license plate .. Then we can do the testing.
Great series having a weber 45 DCOE on our track day mini, Love your videos & hope you will take a look at mine and let
me know what you think of my restorations, Cheers Dave
Sounds great!, and I just sub-ed to your channel Dave... great shop you have and nice cars
Très bonne série! Les bearings et le shaft sont probablement conçu pour un assemblage "press fit" chauffer les bearings et refroidir le shaft plutôt que modifier l'épaisseur du shaft.
Thanks for the comments
Hi did you publish part 3?? I cant find it
Great videos
Regards from Chile :)
👍 Looking forward to see, you fine tuning those Weber's carburetors.
Thanks 👍... I hope to do that soon
There is different types on the early type and late. And diffret shafts in what country the carb is produced.
Thanks for the update
The new generation of spindles for the IDA are junk, they are way too small, approx 0.5mm. Do you gave a comprehensive tuning video for the IDA? Thanks
TXS for the comments, No I do not for the IDA. Maybe one day
Excellent tutorial type vids, learn so much 👍 I also have a webber 😁
Cool, thanks!
Great video, very instructive. I would prefer to use Thackery washers instead of the rubber washers you use though.
Fair enough!
I have a 36DCD Weber and it was recently refurbished but now it’s burning rich and the air screw doesn’t work, not sure what could be the issue
In what stage does it run rich ? idle, progression, wide open, cruising ? It could be many things... float faulty , or float needle bad... and or clogged jets... I need a bit more info
D3Sshooter on idle it is rich, struggles to start, the carb was re done recently. Also when I’m cruising it has a slight jerk
@@bhaveshkara , in that case they have fitted the wrong idle jets , place a smaller jet for idle and as the idle circuitry also is engaged in cruising and progression that is also affected. do you know what is fitted ? who did refurbished it ? Ask for the jet specs that were fitted . What type of engine is it ? There are many factors to look at before a real solid answer can be provided. Does the acceleration feels ok ? and what about wide open driving ?
Hi steve
Thanks for the videos. Is there a part three on its way?
Thanks for the comments, yes I know its been a while
if i have a high cam will it be same settings i got someting similar to yours
Thanks for the comments , that might require a few changes but are all part of the final bench or road test.
Hi Steve, any chance you will be coming up with part 3 in the near future...? Cheers
Thanks for the comments, yes I will.. the main issue is the registration on old sporty to get it on the road...
Did you deburr/chamfer the hole after drilling?
O yes , I always do...
Interesting that you had to turn down the diameter of that shaft a little. Bad manufacturing by the supplier. Also, I would have center punched a small shaft like that before drilling, but you pulled it off, using no doubt a nice sharp bit and being careful with the start.
Thanks for the tips! indeed that is better way
Thanks for the video...Thumbs up
Thanks for watching!
Another great video,Thanks
Thanks again!
Fijn mechaniek ! Schitterend !
Bedankt
hi. i have followed theses videos. they are very informative. i was always told not to mess around with side drafts as it is very complicated. i am not a mechanic so i trust the guys helping me. what i am looking for is your weber dcoe part 3. i cannot find it. can you please forward the link
Thanks for the comments, its on the channel now
@@D3Sshooter thanks. il check it out now
@@D3Sshooter still cannot find it
@@imtiyaazstevens1939 i tried to find it also as i wanted to tune my carbs on my alfa. thanks for your other videos which were very good
Really nice video. Thanks.
Greetings,, Kitty.
Many thanks!
Love this series, but where is Part 3?
Thanks for the comments, I need to create and edit on that video...Will try to do so
Duel Webbers on a Pinto engine. Now that is something you would not see here very often, Interesting.
Thank you for the comments, but this is a Pinto Motor.. Not a Pinto car (like in the US).
I enjoyed my 20 minute OCD carb restoration.....lol
Thank you for the comments
Awesome!
Thank you! Cheers!
any tips on jetting a weber 45 on wankel rotary engine 12a thanks
hmmm interesting... need to think about that one
so informative!
Glad you think so! Thanks for comments
Any update on the next part of this series?
That should be on the channel
@@D3Sshooter I must be blind.....I can't find it......
@@D3Sshooter I also dont see it.
where is part 3?
i cannot find the next video. Please help!!
Thanks for the comments, which one part 3 ... that is still to be edited sorry
Have my 45DCOE´s now on the Bench to overhaul them, and used your Video....great stuff, makes fun to watch your videos and after that, work on the webers, now after seeing your videos, they ´ve lost the "black magic" label....check my channel if you want to see my works on them soon, and also to see the cars i do my stuff on.... regards from Germany :)
Good morning valo acho
Cline bast
👍🇦🇺
not copper; brass
Thank you very much for this great video series! I now have a dellorto, but of course it is very similar! check out my channel :)
Thanks, will do!
Si possible en français..
Learned lots and lots. Many thanks!