I have a 2017 2.0 BiTDI 240bhp Passat ( remapped to 290bhp since new) I have now covered 176,000 miles. Engine still perfect. Still has all its power. Issues to date are the wet clutches on the DQ500 DSG were replaced and the flywheel at 160,000 miles. Also the fuel metering valve on the fuel pump recently went faulty giving a fuel rail pressure too high fault code. Got a new one on eBay for approx 70 quid. That’s it! I change the oil every 10,000 miles and it doesn’t use a drop between services. I change fuel and air filter every 4th oil change.
Passat 2.0 gt model 2018 and had from new.. Now on 230k miles, same turbo, same egr, same dpf, same gearbox and fly wheel and same injectors !! Had a new start stop battery at 200k and alternator at 200k!! Only drama is the rear tyres🛞 on inner edges going lumpy from the camber! Had it adjusted so many times but I gave up now on that lol Perfect taxi 🚕
I was told the bumpy inner edge of my rears on my b8 was from faulty shocks. Been replaced and so far so good (208k miles) also had a battery last month, dual mass is also on its way out. Better put some money asside for an alternator 🤣
PD170 Siemens injectors can be the loom insulation hardening in the oil as much as oil ingress into the injectors themselves, they run in parallel, so any short in the entire loom system and they all stop. You won't get any misfire warnings, just engine stops. I was involved in getting this recall to happen with a few key lads worldwide. I'd suggest replacing the loom if it ever starts feeling hard inside the tappet cover with a revised genuine one. "New injectors" just have improved seals, and will simply last longer. My problem item was loom. Audi revised loom was better again. Be very careful to understand the external loom locking plug, easy to stuff this up and get poor connections if you mess up the plastics. As for dual mass, my stocko lasted 270thou kms at about 450nm and was given a hard time, so it seems to be luck of the draw. I've replaced it with a LUK dual mass which apparently does not come apart like the SACHS one can if it fails. Planning on over 500nm through it soon, so see how we go. Use quality fuel, track your DPF and oil ash load on an app ( the stuff that can't regenerate ), and complete any running regeneration if you can. Use 504 oil for the DPF, and 507 oil for the PD cam wear. Change the oil on time or earlier, the DPF regens put a lot of diesel into the oil during late injection regenerations, and they heat the whole engine bay up to over 200 degrees. Make sure battery is insulated, regens kill open batteries more quickly. Most PD170's came with a wrap or a plastic box for this reason. As said below your written guides are excellent, and I've yet to see anything but great advice on your videos, and learnt a thing or two!
Interesting to read about the loom problem, this could help a friend who's having strange issues at the moment, I'll ask him to check this. Thanks always for your support and encouragement my friend.
My 2013 Jetta TDI has been towed to the garage twice in 2 months. First it was the alternator that broke mid road trip and left me stranded, then a few days ago the clutch just became super loose out of nowhere and I'm unable to put it in gear :/ i know everyone says these cars are super reliable but I'm losing confidence in it fast. I've already spent thousands on replacinng the suspension, deleting the egr because it was broken, changing the timing belt and water pump etc. I'm wondering if I should take the L and just buy a Toyota or stick with my Jetta and hope nothing else breaks.
I got rid of my dual mass flywheel. Honestly don’t even notice the difference and now I don’t have to worry about it taking a crap again. Started to come apart at 90k miles
Do you know which weight and brand you fitted? Did you need to increase the tickover rpms? I've heard people saying this and also heard others hating on the lighter flywheel so there must be an option that works well on these.
I put a valeo single mass on mine from auto doc, smooth and only makes a little noise at low revs in first gear. It does slip in 4th and 6th when power is put down, but works really well. Big turbo going in soon so clutch will have to be done again to handle even more power 😅 Ppd170 Leon mk2 great engine!
Thanks, have a 2013 tuned CFFB, no issues so far. Like to see the mods in you future vids. 👍 The written upgrade guide is great and I had a good read before investing in the tune.
They are good solid engines, most of issues have been sorted out by 2013, the recent EA288 is a pretty important evolution of the 2.0 TDi. Mine was an early BKD from 2008 and it was pretty reliable for me, I didn't have any of the issues mentioned here although an overly aggressive map (140 to 185hp) did kill the turbo prematurely.
@@torquecars I have a BKD A3 sat on the drive, shes just had yet another service, her 20th, 200,721 Miles on the clock, all OEM just remapped, new turbo at 150ish k. Shes still got it, still makes me smile, and still upsets alot of her newer bretheren :) Long live the BKD last of the unrestricted diesels.
My 2009 tdi with stage 2 mapped / free breathing engine is now at 378k km. It's pucked everywhere since a tree fell on it but it is still going strong with its scrapyard sourced hood, driver door and trunk lid 😝 Best commuter car I have had to drive weekly between my house and cottage over 100km apart.
I’ve had injector fitted on seat Leon for 2.0tdi, 170bhp 2007 the car was running and come up with injector 3 and had one fitted and now doesn’t start even with the old one?
Thanks for your information. I have a passat 2007, 2.0 Tdi, 125kW (170HP), done 230,000km, engine rattle at flywheel area, and knocking noise at timing belt, the worst problem is it blows smoke white/grey (not smelling coolant and no coolant loss), no power, misfiring. I would appreciate you comment on potentially cause to help me decide on whether to move on or fix it. Many thanks!!!
It sounds like the dual mass flywheel is on it's way out. The timing belt tensioner may also be playing up. It is really hard to diagnose these things remotely. You've got to weight up the cost of repair vs the cost of a replacement car. With the mileage it might be worth moving on as there are probably other bills looming. The smoke could be the engine running lean/rich and is often down to the injectors failing to spray a good pattern of fuel into the engine. Hoepfully a few others on here will spot your post and chip in with their experiences.
Thanks for the informative video ! I’m very new to this Volkswagen engines and all .. just saw one for sale in my country in Fiji , a 2017 Jetta with a 2.0L TDI with 125K mileage and going for 21K FJd … thought I’d do some research on this cars and their engines and issues .. I was at your website that’s what brought me here to your channel
I have a 2.0tdi bmn 125kwh. no problems. regular small big service change everything on time big every 75000km and small service every 10000 to 12000km. change everything, original castrol 5w30, all filters from motor oil, cabin fuel, etc... great service, change from track tensioner to toothed tensioner with all rollers and water pump and all adjusting belts from channel to toothed. all other engine boss bolts. clean the air valve, the exhaust shaft every 50,000 km and the EGR valve from soot, i.e. exhaust. and do not overdo the regeneration of the dpf, and once a month treat the engine with better fuel to clean the injection and exhaust system. and there are no problems with that engine. those who say they have problems are lying.
Hi mate - really good video. I have a 2016 Skoda Octavia 2.0 Se Tdi with 56k miles. Solid car up until now but recently the engine temperature gauge fluctuates and goes up into the red. It doesn’t happen every time I drive. No coolant is being lost and the engine fan sometimes works hard. Do you think this is either the coolant sensor or a thermostat issue?
Hi, Can you picture exactly where on the engine we should find the number you are stating we should check are located. The general engine shot doesn't help here it just frustrates
I've got a 2011 Skoda superb 2.0tdi with 115k miles and have recently started to notice that at higher speeds (40mph plus) there is now a dull noise that increases as speed increases. The engine is running fine, no over revving, idling fine, no temp issues and mpg is great (60+ on motorway runs) so I'm not sure what to make of this. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Great video, I’m not sure if I have the same engine that you are talking about but my engine code is CCHA, it’s a 120k miles 2012 140bhpCaravelle/transporter. It has been remapped to 178bhp about 3 years ago, always been driven‘properly’ the last couple of months I’ve been experiencing chuffing when removing the oil filler cap and a pressure build up in the head. Is this another common fault? My initial thought is valve stem seal worn, I am planning on doing the cam belt for a second time when it finally stops raining. Could it be stem seals or are there any other areas to investigate? Thanks
Heyy i have the 138bhp 2.0 tdi 2010 Skoda superb i have tuned it and put a start to end exhaust my car is getting heated and the coolant is not leaking but disappearing from the coolant box i checked and fixed all the leakage spots changed the radiator and stuff what do you think it must be
Hi i think from what i readed the model with C cylinders head are the engine from and after 2006. So be sure yours is at least from 2006 and if 2007 it's even more likely to have a C Cylinder head i guess.
Thanks for your kind words and thanks for the encouragement. Sadly I think I'll always be a small channel, but please help spread the word and keep the comments and likes coming, they really do help us.
@@torquecars will do foreshore, i think with UA-cam just keep uploading until you hit the algorithm jackpot you have great content and once one of your vids goes viral you are set 😉
have got a 2005 2.0TDI Audi A3, has been sat for about 6months with half a tank of diesel in it. currently engine is turning over but failing to fire. have had people say it’s likely to be fuel filter / pump. any ideas of where to start in sorting this myself or potentially properly identifying my issue. first car and broke as fk so any help is helpful 💪🏼 when i bought the car (after about 3months with the half a tank in) we drove it to where it is sat now (with no issues) within a week of it being sat it wasn’t firing anymore and previously when i got it home it was sounding beautiful and idling like a dream. again any help is greatly appreciated
At 1:10 you are confusing diesel with gasoline engine . There has never been any port injected diesel engine. Only indirect (pre chamber) or direct injection. All VAG diesel engines from this millennium are direct injected. TDI stands for Turbo Direct Injection. TD is Turbo Diesel (indirect injection).
Thanks for the heads up my friend. You are quite right, my intention was to explain why engines in general now have carbon build up issues, it does confuse things that I mentioned gasoline engines at this point in a video about diesels as they do work quite differently but this "historical diesel issue" of carbon build up is now affecting many gasoline engines now. So top marks for highlighting this and I'll correct this in a future video revision it was certainly not my intention to confuse or muddy the waters.
Hi. I’m back on here. Would you happen to know where the crankshaft sensor( Engine speed sensor) is on a CNHA( 2.0 TDI ultra Audi A6 2016) ? Code I got is P0322 (G28) Engine Speed sensor. Thank you.
Hi. I have a A4 B7 2.0tdi and I'm trying to locate where this A,B,C code thing is for the head? Ive just got this car, changed glow plugs and valve seal and now i'm seeing oil at the back of the front bumper ( there's no under tray-broken off). It's a 56 UK plate. Hoping this isn't the case as i'm already looking at recon it's gearbox and already thrown money at it in 3 weeks. Help? 😥 Subbed, keep up this great work!
Thanks for the informative video. Have a 2013 vw tiguan 2.0l tdi with the cffb engine. Been experiencing random intermittent long cranking issues lately. Egr have been replaced as well as both thermostats. No fault codes. Any idea what my be the cause or where to look?
Check the voltage when cranking, it could be a battery issue starting to show up. Is it only when cold? If so are the glow plugs good? You've done the obvious stuff though. so I'll ask around and see if I can help you get to the bottom of this.
@@torquecars Thanks for getting back. Brand new battery. Long crank whether hot or cold engine. Occurs extremely random. Two or three starts in a row out of every 15 to 18 starts. Won't the glow plugs pop a code?
I had a similar problem on my cff engine when I replaced my timing belt. I found that I just needed to tweak my timing on the vernier pulley and then she just came to life on the first crank. Check that out it may be one cause
Hi mate i have a 2007 vw Passat 2.0tdi 170 bhp ,the engine light is on and it doesn't rev past 3000 rpm when i try going past 3000 rpm the glow plug light starts flashing and it starts to creat black smoke and loss of power . When I turn it off the glow plug light turns off but engine light it still on ,no smoke below 3000 rpm. What do you think is the problem is. Cheers.
My 2009 Jetta TDI had the glow plug light flashing around 3k rpm after I changed the timing belt. The timing was a bit off... I adjusted the cam pulley slightly and it stopped the glow plug light flashing.
@@francisau8003 Might be a little late. I’ve got a 2008 A4 B8 2.0 tdi, 143hp. I’ve only had two running issues really, one being glow plugs on cylinders 2 and 4 and the dpf clogging up. DPF is because at certain periods through the year, I only do short journeys. Glow plugs on that particular engine I think is just a fairly common thing that needs replacing
Has the cat died on you or DPF got blocked? This is I think related to low O2 in the exhaust and could potentially just be a bad lambda O2 sensor. Are you getting any other symptoms?
Thanks for the video , i have an Audi A3 sport 2014 tdi 180 bhp ,the problem is every now and then it suddenly looses complete power for a very short period of time ,may be a second or less almost as if the engine is switched of and then back to normal ,no engine light comes on ,been to different garages and they could not find anything ,will be very grateful for any advice ,thank you .
@@mezyaz1632 did you found the problem ? I had similar issue when accelerated the engine strutled a bit and one time completly shot off after i restarted i got ijenctor failure code (flashing coil light) the problem was the cables on top of the engine had worn out and as the egine shoock a bit it cut off changed the cables and since than i didn t had any problem
Euro# are emissions standards set in the European area which all manufacturers have to meet (or cheat!), the higher the number the stricter they are and they apply to newer cars. We have Euro 7 cars now. Cars are required to meet certain emissions limits as specified by the European commission and it ranges from exhaust particles, to gases output right up to dust emissions from brakes and tyres now and even battery life so even EV's have to meet them.
I have a problem with my audi a6 c6 4f 2.0tdi when im driving and just hold a speed where the rpm is 1900-2000 the engine starts shaking and feel like the engine is ready to jump out of the car😅 but i called audi and they say it a well know problem but they wont tell me what it is so i can order the parts i need and i just dont feel like spending 20-30k fixing it at a shop. So is this a problem that you have heard off before?
Cool thanks for the heads up, which years does this tend to affect? It sounds a more recent engine problem to me, the earlier ones didn't have swirl flaps AFAIK.
Swirl flaps actuator not sure I think all 16 valves Is cheap to fix. The turbo actuator failure makes the engine sluggish and weak (too low boost pressure) its function is to regulate boost pressure by putting the vanes in the turbo in the right angle error code p0299 engine goes in limp mode Part costs 300 ish dollar And is replacable while turbo is in place This actuator is used on almost all the 4 cyl diesel In the Vag range.
Bonjour , j’aimerais que vous me donniez un avis sur mon 2.0tdi 143cv il ne tourne pas rond il tremble dans tout les sens comme si le régime n’étais pas stable , j’ai une courte vidéo si vous voulez voir 😊 thank’s 🙃
Hi, would you be able to help me please? | I have 2.0tdi A6 C6 2010 175bhp version. Now, car runs smoothly when first started (cold engine), up until it starts warming up and as it gets to workign temp. Then the idle is rough and shaky, and its noticeable that it has some weird noise, kind of cracking or something.. Car always drives nicely and accelerates fine. Whole clutch has been changed. At the moment its on 160k miles. Thank you very much!
If it has been accidented or has a big intercooler, check that the radiator fan is not hitting the AC line and or missing pieces. Mine did that shaking with weird noise on idle when the fan would start running (when coolant hit 95°C). I investigated and found out the large fan was missing pieces causing it to be out of balance and shaking violently. Grabbed another fan from the scrapyard and problem solved...
Right now I am looking to buy a VW Golf MK6 2.0 TDI 140hp with engine code: CBAB from 2009. What should I look for? Should I be concerned about any problem with that particular engine from that year?
Nothing really, bosch cp4 very reliable unless missfueled, oil pump not an issue since early pd engines around 2005. If odo is 200-250 a flywheel is due, other than that not really.
have a 2005 2.0TDI Audi A3 that has been sat with 1/2 tank of diesel for about 5months. when bought (had been sat for 2months with the diesel in, was running and sounding beautiful and idling really comfortably. about a week later the engine would no longer fire but would just tick over as you turn the key and stop after about a second. has been like this for the last 2 months and have had a few people suggest fuel pump / filter replacement or cleaning. any tips ? this is my first car and i have little money so looking to get a good diagnosis before losing too much
This video explains that fuel can degrade over time... ua-cam.com/video/d9Gt5x5AjAk/v-deo.html A filter change should be a cheap option to see if it fixes it. Are you getting any error codes from the OBD port? That is usually the first place to look for clues when there is a problem. This video goes into to Audi diesel cold and warm start problems so might give you some pointers. ua-cam.com/video/BHjuezi6bNc/v-deo.html
@@torquecars amazing thanks so much for the speedy reply dude. No codes coming up when we ran a test on the OBD port tried two different tests on separate devices. will watch any videos i can so thanks a lot!
Thank you for the great information. I am just wondering what is ''early generation''.. I bought a Mitsubishi Grandis which has a 2.0TDI VAG engine. It's a 2008 model. Is that early generation? No idea when VW started making these engines 🙄
In my mind the early generation were the pd engines which were made right up to 2008. But there were some issues with the first batch of cr engines that came out, but thankfully most owners have had these sorted if the faults were present. I didn't realize Mitsubishi used these engines so I've learnt something from you.
I got Skoda 2.0 TDI ENGINE I was crushing on highway and suddenly heard noise from engine and when I check I noticed air is blowing out from intake and intake mainfold melted at 2nd priston any suggestions what is the issue Engine still runs but I see black smoke from exhaust
Do a compression test, You'll probably find the valves on cylinder 2 are failing in some way, exhaust gases are exiting to the intake causing it to melt, I can't think of specifics at the moment other than perhaps a gasket problem. Let me know what you discover though, I'm sure you'll not be alone and someone else out there will benefit from your findings.
Hi chap, interesting watch. Im looking at buying a 2009 b6 passat tdi 2.0 CR . It has the cbab engine and is on 189k miles. Is it likely to have had a oil pump drive fix. I know the hex key can cause problems but at this mileage surely it cant be an issue. As in its either been replaced or isnt one prone to failure
You never can tell, but if it's the original weak one and has lasted this long its a good one, if it was weak and broke it was replaced many moons ago. Is there evidence of a service history? If the owner has cared for it then you should have little to worry about.
The video is mixing the PD engines (up to 2008) with the CR engines, after 05/06 the oil pump failures disappeared mostly (BRE, BRA audi) and then balance shaft assemblies with the hex oil drive was strengthened with and extra 15mm of hex shaft driving the pump. Gen1 CR engines very reliable i work on lots with over 400k.
I will separate these engines out and do a more focused video for the later CR engines. I feel the Gen3 also deserves it's own video due to the sheer number of revisions. This video was based on an old article on my website so it's time to update that as well whilst I'm at it.
I have a problem with my turbo on 2.0 tdi 103kw, golf 5 2004 generation, I’ve repaired it 2 days ago the turbo is now new but I’ve had a problem that the car put’s itself always in safe mode when I keep my speed, for example, I’m going 130km/h in 6th gear and after 10 - 20 seconds the turbo shut’s off.. But when I floor it everything is normal, I was going 180km/h and it didn’t shut off.. Checked everything around the turbo and it’s fine.. Only solution right now I think is to buy a new throttle valve because only after 3000rpm it gives me full power..
These two videos should help answer your question. ua-cam.com/video/TgPQe12d_sw/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/8ULVvk9shig/v-deo.html Thinking about the mileage the DPF may be nearing end of life, it depends how well it's been looked after and may well have already been replaced. If the turbo has a whine it could indicate the turbo has started to wear out also. There is not much to go wrong with these unless they have not been serviced correctly and with the correct grade of oil.
This video is about these engines to 2009... the B?? engines, 3 letter engine codes starting with B . I take it that the cylinder head for EA189 engines, eg CEGA, would be like a "C" cylinder head and not have the problem ???
I got a 2013 exeo diesel, its rough idling, starts perfect, runs well, its just when it's ticking over. New EGR, new Fuel temp and rail pressure sensor. What I have noticed is the coolant temperature is reading about 20 degrees cooler that what the engine itself is. Any ideas. The car has done 134,000 miles. Any help is much appreciated
Low compression in one or more cylinders, can all cause low fuel economy and clogged fuel injector or blocked DPF can cause higher fuel consumption. Check for error codes they can often indicate faults and problems. A compression test will also be a useful part of diagnoses here for you. A turbo failing can also cause these issues but you will typically get a whine or siren noise at the same time. If you engine has a DPF you may not see smoke from the burning oil in the exhaust.
Hey, I have a MK6 Golf 2010/11 2.0tdi CFFB. Currently it sits right now at 130k kilometers or 81k miles, are these engines have a oil pump shaft problem? If they have it, at what millage should I consider to replace it?
You shouldn't have a problem, after making this video and chatting with a few people is seems the oil pump shaft problem was mainly a pre 2008 PD engine issue. There were a few borderline old stock engines around 2009 but the CFFB is the modern CR engine. If I find anything else out on this I'll let you know. Most of this video is aimed at the early PD engines, so I'll do another CR and a Gen3 TDi video when I've got all the facts together.
I have skoda superb 2015 2.0 140hp CFFB engine im taxi driver i buy the car at 115k miles replace waterpum and belt drive 2 years now 190k miles start to leaks water from water pump
I got a skoda 2013 cfhc engine code. Problem is it cranks sometimes longer than usual. Sometimes no problem,but then 3-4 times longer crank till it fires up. Battery is ok,and no fault codes.. Any suggestions i should check??
Are the glow plugs warming up ok? Is the Thermostat working ok? Have you checked the alternator - a good battery can still struggle if the alternator is not topping up the current. Other things could be the starter itself, a weak motor, poor connection or something like that.
Hello guys. I want to buy a golf 6 plus 2.0 TDI CR 103 KW/140 HP. I want to know which engine code has the lowest problems. I just know that i should escape the first 3 years of CR engines, so i should go 2012-2014 year model. Or can you suggest some 2.0 tdi engine code even if it is not in golf 6 plus. It can be tuaran, passat, jeta....or maybe some skoda model. Thank you a lot.
From 2012 most of the early problems including the emissions scandal were ironed out, generally get the newest version of the engine you can so I would choose a higher mileage 2015 over a low mileage 2012 one. The Gen 2 and even better Gen 3 engines are pretty solid if well looked after. If you only do short journeys then this is probably not the engine for you, they like to be used a lot and pushed hard.
I have a 140 tdi dsg in a 2012 Touran. Not one visit to VW apart from software update from exhaust scandal. Change oil every 5k and dsg every 25/30k. Still have same brake pads in !!!!
Nothing too special to look out for on these, but check for a full service history. Many vans are poorly serviced and if they carry heavy loads and do lots of stop start journeys they really need fresh oil.
Thanks for great advices. 👍 can you please tell me what can couse lite engine shaking when idling on my audi a4 2006 2.0tdi automatic? I would really appreciate some advice.
It could be the Dual Mass Flywheel playing up - these do quite a bit of work keeping these engines running smoothly. To be honest though these all have a minor wobble on tickover especially when pointing down a hill. It feels like a misfire or judder every few seconds and is quite normal. It sound like yours is more pronounced than this. Other issues could be unbalanced compression between the cylinders, effectively giving a wide range of power on each cylinder which can cause vibration.
Anything where the engine temps are still low, so it depends on the weather and how you drive to some extent, but the engine needs to be at operating temperature for as long as possible, my 2.0 TDi didn't warm up that slowly but it still took around 7-8mins of driving before the temp needle started moving so for me I would try to avoid 15 min or less drives otherwise you'll have those annoying DPF issues. A good run every couple of days can help though and will to some extent make up for a short journey.
Please help, Audi a3 1.9 tdi 2008, oil mix with coolant like milkshake head gasket changed a year ago now some people say head gasket some say oil cooler 🤔 please advise me what to do and are you in uk do have a garage we can visit ? Many thanks
Really hard to track these things down, could be a cracked cylinder head, the gasket could have gone again, the head bolts may have stretched (hope they put new ones on), did the head get skimmed on the last gasket change? Sorry I don't have a UK garage myself, but where about are you I might know someone near you who can help I have picked up quite a few contacts over the years.
Thank you so much for your reply and your time I don’t know tbf what they have done to my car I don’t have so much knowledge About cars And I live in Portsmouth if anyone you know can help I will be happy to pay any amount and more if they do good job and sort the problem Many thanks 🙏🏻
I have a 2014 VW crafter which is a giant van, it has the single turbo 109bhp 2.0 tdi engine, I noticed you saying you had it an A3? are there differences in a commercial 2.0l tdi to the Audi A3? worrying because I think the engine must be under tremendous strain hauling such a big van. Cheers
These engines are very torquey and able to handle pretty heavy loads. The same block is available as a 170hp version so they are pretty strong and the 109hp is not a struggle. NB: Gearing is generally different on these but the engines are essentially the same mechanically. The different power outputs were down to mapping, fuel injectors and turbos. It is important the mapper doesn't apply a car oriented map to a diesel van, most will adjust the torque curve to suit as needed.
A common fault i dont see in your video, Turbos with VGT or whatever your brand calls it, mine has it, they gum up badly with carbon especially with an egr delete. Causing limp home mode, low power and overboost codes in the computer. Easy to fix, full engine service and engine flush, inject mr muscle into the exhaust side of the turbo leave for 15 to 20 mins, bolt it up, start it up, wait for tempratures to rise and drive on the motor way in 4th or 5th for a few miles with the revs around 3000rpm, will clean right up and the codes will vanish on there own. Have to do it every coupple years. And remember after your drive to check the post service fluid levels, DO NOT run them turbos with low engine oil levels, biggest reason they fail is oil starvation from low level
And on your Single Mass Flywheel Conversion, you will enjoy if you go have the car updated at just about any garage, you need to increase the IDLE RPM Offset to 150 to 200, increasing idle revs to 1000 rpm, just over 950 rpm they smoothe right out. Getting rid of the DMF of my C-MAX Many years ago was the best thing i ever did, transformed the way she drove.
Interesting comment, thanks for your input my friend. So the EGR delete can cause this problem, it wasn't something I was aware of but does make a lot of sense.
That is a good tip, most people I've known with a single mass flywheel on these have had vibration issues, but in fairness they generally fitted quite light flywheels to them. Personally I would source a lighter dual mass but totally understand it depends on your aims on the car project and what you can get in your area.
@@torquecars I would say its more prone to the problem with the EGR Deleted or not working correctly, all turbos get buildup on them, its just with the VGT that buildup has some funkey effects, all making the car a pain to drive, cos with no boost well no go. But Mr Muscel in the turbo hot side clean her right up, and then excersize the car and VGT to make sure its freed up. Had it happen on my mapped baby and the wife bog standard gutless wonder.
I’m looking to buy a 2011 Skoda superb elegance 2.0 tdi 125kw, it’s got roughly 65k miles. What can I expect in upcoming services and what exact model tdi engine would this have? Cheers
They are really good, most of the issues have been completely engineered out, I have a video I'm currently working on that covers the EA288 and 2018 EVO revisions of this great engine. I would not hesitate recommending one, especially if you do lots of distance driving and can keep the DPF happy and hot. However if you only do short journeys, although the DPF design is much improved I would recommend you look at a petrol engine like the 1.4 TFSi.
The last of the PD's especially the BKD up to around 2007, from 2008 there was a dip in quality along with the conversion to CR but by 2011 most of these issues have been ironed out. I would be happy with ANY of these engines with a Bosch ECU (except for 2008-2010), AS LONG AS IT HAD A FULL SERVICE HISTORY. The key is maintaining them properly really.
Could be a number of reasons for the high idle speed (around 8-900 is normal for most of these engines). The most common thing in my experience is if the current drops from the alternator it will increase revs to compensate so in most cases a worn out alternator or something causing high battery drain will cause this.
They are pretty good options imho. They have the newer CR setup and most of the early issues were ironed out by 2010. The 2012 version is better still. You won't be disappointed but I would strongly recommend buying one with a full service history and checking the major points in this video.
You are very correct it does, but I've only ever seen one go, they are much better than the B and A which were notoriously bad. I wish I could get to the bottom of the cause of this it's IMO either manufacturing/design defect or some thing to do with hot/cold cycles during use and high RPM's when cold or something like that.
Interesting, thanks for your feedback. Hopefully we'll get to the bottom of this one once and for all. There was nothing like this on the 1.9TDi was there!?
@@torquecars Thank you ! I have a Peugeot 1.6 2014 I didn’t have any problems accept DPF filter plug. When that happened, I put Dpf off, Erg of the new map. Nothing extreme it’s a little torquer at the bottom rpm. And maybe 15 hp up. It is for sale now. I’m looking for a Skoda Superb 2.0 tdi or something similar. I’m buying a used car so I cannot be to picky.
Lol, you missed a fair number of issues. At least be thorough if you're going to all the trouble of making a video about these engines. PCV valve cooling - seal line that sends carter gases into turbo Vacuum pump/vacuum lines thermostat injector seals turbo actuator start/end positions air flow meter oil pump hex drive key for balance shaft fuel pump - people are replacing bosch CP4 with CP3 to prevent filings screwing the entire fuel system (tank/injectors/lines etc)
It would be a really long boring video if I listed everything that could possibly go wrong. The criterion used was problems that crop up most often and affected most versions of this engine. I will refocus on each generation of this engine where I can drill down into the smaller niggles that were unique to each generation. To be honest I didn't think anyone would want to watch a video on engine problems but I've been surprised by the feedback and response it has had so far. There are a few items on your list I was completely unaware of so I'll research those thoroughly and report back in a future video.
@@torquecars the fuel pump, hex drive key and thermostat are common issues on ea189 and the most relevant since they cause the most catastrophic failures The turbo actuator becomes an issue if an incompetent mechanic has done work on the car in that specific area Pcv and Carter gases line are somewhat common as well Injector seals remain undiagnosed because the users don't look for them and mechanics don't care
Interesting, you are a handy guy to know. I'll look into these for the next videos on each generation of the 2.0 TDi engines. I've heard claims that the EVO Gen 3 irons out pretty much all of the problems, but others have told me it's just as bad as the previous one? What are your thoughts?
@@torquecars don't know. I've only done research on the engine in my car. It's somewhat helpful that most of the cars in Eastern Europe are old diesels and some of them are not serviced as often as they should. The issues are fairly reoccuring and well known.
![Best Mods For 2.0 TDi Tuning [Seat, Audi, VW, Skoda Tuning Guide] EA188 & EA189 Stage 1 & Stage 2](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4D9bfhngKGc/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a 2017 2.0 BiTDI 240bhp Passat ( remapped to 290bhp since new) I have now covered 176,000 miles. Engine still perfect. Still has all its power. Issues to date are the wet clutches on the DQ500 DSG were replaced and the flywheel at 160,000 miles. Also the fuel metering valve on the fuel pump recently went faulty giving a fuel rail pressure too high fault code. Got a new one on eBay for approx 70 quid. That’s it! I change the oil every 10,000 miles and it doesn’t use a drop between services. I change fuel and air filter every 4th oil change.
My 2019 68 plate 150hp leaks a bit of oil. Apparently it's an oil filter housing gasket. Is that bad?
Its corect
I change mine every 5k
change air filter every time with oil and oil filter change.
I’m thinking to buy a 2017 Audi a5 2.0tdi with around 150k miles will the engine go on much longer ?
Have now 310 000km on it, only problem was the flyhweel at 250 000km. Very good engine with no problems.
Upgraded to solid flywheel and VR6 clutch kit on my 2.0 Tdi (CLC). No complaints about the extra noise at idle.
@@craigladewig3158 how much did that set you back and do you notice a difference in quality of drive now?
Passat 2.0 gt model 2018 and had from new..
Now on 230k miles, same turbo, same egr, same dpf, same gearbox and fly wheel and same injectors !!
Had a new start stop battery at 200k and alternator at 200k!!
Only drama is the rear tyres🛞 on inner edges going lumpy from the camber! Had it adjusted so many times but I gave up now on that lol
Perfect taxi 🚕
I was told the bumpy inner edge of my rears on my b8 was from faulty shocks. Been replaced and so far so good (208k miles) also had a battery last month, dual mass is also on its way out. Better put some money asside for an alternator 🤣
Back in 2014 i owned a bkd Golf 2.0 tdi 2004 model, also ended up with a cracked cylinder head, injectors failing etc. It was bad
I'm still seriously thinking of buying 2tdi this was a great help...
Thanks my friend, you'll love it. I know I had a real blast with mine, especially after the remap was done on it.
Such a great channel. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! Will do! I appreciate the support and encouragement my friend.
PD170 Siemens injectors can be the loom insulation hardening in the oil as much as oil ingress into the injectors themselves, they run in parallel, so any short in the entire loom system and they all stop. You won't get any misfire warnings, just engine stops. I was involved in getting this recall to happen with a few key lads worldwide. I'd suggest replacing the loom if it ever starts feeling hard inside the tappet cover with a revised genuine one. "New injectors" just have improved seals, and will simply last longer. My problem item was loom. Audi revised loom was better again. Be very careful to understand the external loom locking plug, easy to stuff this up and get poor connections if you mess up the plastics.
As for dual mass, my stocko lasted 270thou kms at about 450nm and was given a hard time, so it seems to be luck of the draw. I've replaced it with a LUK dual mass which apparently does not come apart like the SACHS one can if it fails. Planning on over 500nm through it soon, so see how we go.
Use quality fuel, track your DPF and oil ash load on an app ( the stuff that can't regenerate ), and complete any running regeneration if you can. Use 504 oil for the DPF, and 507 oil for the PD cam wear. Change the oil on time or earlier, the DPF regens put a lot of diesel into the oil during late injection regenerations, and they heat the whole engine bay up to over 200 degrees. Make sure battery is insulated, regens kill open batteries more quickly. Most PD170's came with a wrap or a plastic box for this reason.
As said below your written guides are excellent, and I've yet to see anything but great advice on your videos, and learnt a thing or two!
Interesting to read about the loom problem, this could help a friend who's having strange issues at the moment, I'll ask him to check this.
Thanks always for your support and encouragement my friend.
My 2013 Jetta TDI has been towed to the garage twice in 2 months. First it was the alternator that broke mid road trip and left me stranded, then a few days ago the clutch just became super loose out of nowhere and I'm unable to put it in gear :/ i know everyone says these cars are super reliable but I'm losing confidence in it fast. I've already spent thousands on replacinng the suspension, deleting the egr because it was broken, changing the timing belt and water pump etc. I'm wondering if I should take the L and just buy a Toyota or stick with my Jetta and hope nothing else breaks.
I got rid of my dual mass flywheel. Honestly don’t even notice the difference and now I don’t have to worry about it taking a crap again. Started to come apart at 90k miles
Do you know which weight and brand you fitted? Did you need to increase the tickover rpms? I've heard people saying this and also heard others hating on the lighter flywheel so there must be an option that works well on these.
I put a valeo single mass on mine from auto doc, smooth and only makes a little noise at low revs in first gear. It does slip in 4th and 6th when power is put down, but works really well.
Big turbo going in soon so clutch will have to be done again to handle even more power 😅
Ppd170 Leon mk2 great engine!
Thanks, have a 2013 tuned CFFB, no issues so far. Like to see the mods in you future vids. 👍 The written upgrade guide is great and I had a good read before investing in the tune.
They are good solid engines, most of issues have been sorted out by 2013, the recent EA288 is a pretty important evolution of the 2.0 TDi. Mine was an early BKD from 2008 and it was pretty reliable for me, I didn't have any of the issues mentioned here although an overly aggressive map (140 to 185hp) did kill the turbo prematurely.
@@torquecars I have a BKD A3 sat on the drive, shes just had yet another service, her 20th, 200,721 Miles on the clock, all OEM just remapped, new turbo at 150ish k.
Shes still got it, still makes me smile, and still upsets alot of her newer bretheren :) Long live the BKD last of the unrestricted diesels.
My A3 was the BKD, and this is a truly fantastic engine, the last part of the PD era, mine lasted well and had a pretty heavy life.
@torquecars I have BKD 2006 with no issue at 175k miles, just changed turbo 2 years ago. The car 103kW flying like a rocket!
Great vide once again, Which year engines had the chains and the belts. Thank you for your support and the in advance
Just clean all your sensors and carbon from intake system.
My 2009 tdi with stage 2 mapped / free breathing engine is now at 378k km. It's pucked everywhere since a tree fell on it but it is still going strong with its scrapyard sourced hood, driver door and trunk lid 😝 Best commuter car I have had to drive weekly between my house and cottage over 100km apart.
I’ve had injector fitted on seat Leon for 2.0tdi, 170bhp 2007 the car was running and come up with injector 3 and had one fitted and now doesn’t start even with the old one?
Some of these problems can be easily solved by deleting the emissions system
@@prestonsears1184 how? By deleting dpf and agr?
Thanks for your information. I have a passat 2007, 2.0 Tdi, 125kW (170HP), done 230,000km, engine rattle at flywheel area, and knocking noise at timing belt, the worst problem is it blows smoke white/grey (not smelling coolant and no coolant loss), no power, misfiring. I would appreciate you comment on potentially cause to help me decide on whether to move on or fix it. Many thanks!!!
It sounds like the dual mass flywheel is on it's way out. The timing belt tensioner may also be playing up. It is really hard to diagnose these things remotely. You've got to weight up the cost of repair vs the cost of a replacement car. With the mileage it might be worth moving on as there are probably other bills looming.
The smoke could be the engine running lean/rich and is often down to the injectors failing to spray a good pattern of fuel into the engine.
Hoepfully a few others on here will spot your post and chip in with their experiences.
Thanks for the informative video ! I’m very new to this Volkswagen engines and all .. just saw one for sale in my country in Fiji , a 2017 Jetta with a 2.0L TDI with 125K mileage and going for 21K FJd … thought I’d do some research on this cars and their engines and issues .. I was at your website that’s what brought me here to your channel
Hello greetings, my golf 6 2.0 TDI 110hp (cbdc) has a single mass flywheel equipped, however people say its fine since its a lower powered engine?
I have a 2.0tdi bmn 125kwh. no problems. regular small big service change everything on time big every 75000km and small service every 10000 to 12000km. change everything, original castrol 5w30, all filters from motor oil, cabin fuel, etc... great service, change from track tensioner to toothed tensioner with all rollers and water pump and all adjusting belts from channel to toothed. all other engine boss bolts. clean the air valve, the exhaust shaft every 50,000 km and the EGR valve from soot, i.e. exhaust. and do not overdo the regeneration of the dpf, and once a month treat the engine with better fuel to clean the injection and exhaust system. and there are no problems with that engine. those who say they have problems are lying.
Hi mate - really good video. I have a 2016 Skoda Octavia 2.0 Se Tdi with 56k miles. Solid car up until now but recently the engine temperature gauge fluctuates and goes up into the red. It doesn’t happen every time I drive. No coolant is being lost and the engine fan sometimes works hard. Do you think this is either the coolant sensor or a thermostat issue?
Looks like a thermostat issue.
It's definitely the water pump, a common problem. You need to change it before the engine fails.
Hi, Can you picture exactly where on the engine we should find the number you are stating we should check are located. The general engine shot doesn't help here it just frustrates
I've got a 2011 Skoda superb 2.0tdi with 115k miles and have recently started to notice that at higher speeds (40mph plus) there is now a dull noise that increases as speed increases. The engine is running fine, no over revving, idling fine, no temp issues and mpg is great (60+ on motorway runs) so I'm not sure what to make of this. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Thank you, I’m looking at some beetles 2012-2015 tdi ‘s this video helps a lot
Thanks for your support and encouragement my friend.
I have 2016 2.0 tdi octavia. My coolent is emty evry 50 km but i cant find the leak. I remive head unit and change gasget also but still cant solve iy
Great video, I’m not sure if I have the same engine that you are talking about but my engine code is CCHA, it’s a 120k miles 2012 140bhpCaravelle/transporter. It has been remapped to 178bhp about 3 years ago, always been driven‘properly’ the last couple of months I’ve been experiencing chuffing when removing the oil filler cap and a pressure build up in the head. Is this another common fault? My initial thought is valve stem seal worn, I am planning on doing the cam belt for a second time when it finally stops raining. Could it be stem seals or are there any other areas to investigate? Thanks
Heyy i have the 138bhp 2.0 tdi 2010 Skoda superb i have tuned it and put a start to end exhaust my car is getting heated and the coolant is not leaking but disappearing from the coolant box i checked and fixed all the leakage spots changed the radiator and stuff what do you think it must be
Hi i think from what i readed the model with C cylinders head are the engine from and after 2006. So be sure yours is at least from 2006 and if 2007 it's even more likely to have a C Cylinder head i guess.
Really appreciate your videos, you definitely deserve more subs
Thanks for your kind words and thanks for the encouragement. Sadly I think I'll always be a small channel, but please help spread the word and keep the comments and likes coming, they really do help us.
@@torquecars will do foreshore, i think with UA-cam just keep uploading until you hit the algorithm jackpot you have great content and once one of your vids goes viral you are set 😉
have got a 2005 2.0TDI Audi A3, has been sat for about 6months with half a tank of diesel in it. currently engine is turning over but failing to fire. have had people say it’s likely to be fuel filter / pump. any ideas of where to start in sorting this myself or potentially properly identifying my issue. first car and broke as fk so any help is helpful 💪🏼 when i bought the car (after about 3months with the half a tank in) we drove it to where it is sat now (with no issues) within a week of it being sat it wasn’t firing anymore and previously when i got it home it was sounding beautiful and idling like a dream. again any help is greatly appreciated
At 1:10 you are confusing diesel with gasoline engine . There has never been any port injected diesel engine. Only indirect (pre chamber) or direct injection.
All VAG diesel engines from this millennium are direct injected.
TDI stands for Turbo Direct Injection. TD is Turbo Diesel (indirect injection).
Thanks for the heads up my friend. You are quite right, my intention was to explain why engines in general now have carbon build up issues, it does confuse things that I mentioned gasoline engines at this point in a video about diesels as they do work quite differently but this "historical diesel issue" of carbon build up is now affecting many gasoline engines now. So top marks for highlighting this and I'll correct this in a future video revision it was certainly not my intention to confuse or muddy the waters.
2.0 tdi cega 170hp. 210k km no problems jet. Runns perfekt
Excellent information and advice..I'll be looking at more videos and subscribing to you 👍🙂
Hi TorqueCars,
Where about you base?
I need good mechanic for my Audi a6 c7 2.0tdi 190ps cnha manual
I look forward to hearing back from you.
Regards
Hi. I’m back on here. Would you happen to know where the crankshaft sensor( Engine speed sensor) is on a CNHA( 2.0 TDI ultra Audi A6 2016) ? Code I got is P0322 (G28) Engine Speed sensor. Thank you.
Hi. I have a A4 B7 2.0tdi and I'm trying to locate where this A,B,C code thing is for the head? Ive just got this car, changed glow plugs and valve seal and now i'm seeing oil at the back of the front bumper ( there's no under tray-broken off). It's a 56 UK plate. Hoping this isn't the case as i'm already looking at recon it's gearbox and already thrown money at it in 3 weeks. Help? 😥
Subbed, keep up this great work!
I don’t see anywhere on the website about the specific engines or faults etc?? Would be helpful feature!
www.torquecars.com/volkswagen should link you to most of the articles I've already finished, there are a few I'm working on which will be live soon.
Im looking at a 2014 audi a6 c7 whats the best engine please.
It’s the only engine I’ve not blown up. On my second one now and it’s okay at 70k touch wood 😂
Thanks for the informative video. Have a 2013 vw tiguan 2.0l tdi with the cffb engine. Been experiencing random intermittent long cranking issues lately. Egr have been replaced as well as both thermostats. No fault codes. Any idea what my be the cause or where to look?
Check the voltage when cranking, it could be a battery issue starting to show up. Is it only when cold? If so are the glow plugs good? You've done the obvious stuff though. so I'll ask around and see if I can help you get to the bottom of this.
@@torquecars Thanks for getting back. Brand new battery. Long crank whether hot or cold engine. Occurs extremely random. Two or three starts in a row out of every 15 to 18 starts. Won't the glow plugs pop a code?
Would check starter motor and glow plugs. Mine only occurred when hot and it was starter motor
I had a similar problem on my cff engine when I replaced my timing belt. I found that I just needed to tweak my timing on the vernier pulley and then she just came to life on the first crank. Check that out it may be one cause
Check for cranckshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor, they start to get worn out and make the car to have a long crank
Hi mate i have a 2007 vw Passat 2.0tdi 170 bhp ,the engine light is on and it doesn't rev past 3000 rpm when i try going past 3000 rpm the glow plug light starts flashing and it starts to creat black smoke and loss of power . When I turn it off the glow plug light turns off but engine light it still on ,no smoke below 3000 rpm. What do you think is the problem is. Cheers.
My 2009 Jetta TDI had the glow plug light flashing around 3k rpm after I changed the timing belt. The timing was a bit off... I adjusted the cam pulley slightly and it stopped the glow plug light flashing.
Thanks doing such a detailed video! Does the 2008 Audi A4 B8 2.0 tdi have the exact 2.0 tdi engine you ve mentioned? Cheers!
Does it? I too would like to know
@@francisau8003 Might be a little late. I’ve got a 2008 A4 B8 2.0 tdi, 143hp. I’ve only had two running issues really, one being glow plugs on cylinders 2 and 4 and the dpf clogging up. DPF is because at certain periods through the year, I only do short journeys. Glow plugs on that particular engine I think is just a fairly common thing that needs replacing
Really enjoying your content just had a fault code on my audi a3 p1038 had a smell trying to work it out
Has the cat died on you or DPF got blocked? This is I think related to low O2 in the exhaust and could potentially just be a bad lambda O2 sensor. Are you getting any other symptoms?
If it smells eggy stop breathing it in and point a mechanic at your battery...
Thanks for the video , i have an Audi A3 sport 2014 tdi 180 bhp ,the problem is every now and then it suddenly looses complete power for a very short period of time ,may be a second or less almost as if the engine is switched of and then back to normal ,no engine light comes on ,been to different garages and they could not find anything ,will be very grateful for any advice ,thank you .
@@mezyaz1632 did you found the problem ? I had similar issue when accelerated the engine strutled a bit and one time completly shot off after i restarted i got ijenctor failure code (flashing coil light) the problem was the cables on top of the engine had worn out and as the egine shoock a bit it cut off changed the cables and since than i didn t had any problem
How about 63plate seat leon mk3 fr 2.0 tdi 184? I'm considiring to buy one. Good or bad?
Great videos! I have CBBB motor from 2008 in passat B6 but it is specified in licence as EURO4, how is it possible and what does it mean?
Euro# are emissions standards set in the European area which all manufacturers have to meet (or cheat!), the higher the number the stricter they are and they apply to newer cars. We have Euro 7 cars now. Cars are required to meet certain emissions limits as specified by the European commission and it ranges from exhaust particles, to gases output right up to dust emissions from brakes and tyres now and even battery life so even EV's have to meet them.
I have a problem with my audi a6 c6 4f 2.0tdi when im driving and just hold a speed where the rpm is 1900-2000 the engine starts shaking and feel like the engine is ready to jump out of the car😅 but i called audi and they say it a well know problem but they wont tell me what it is so i can order the parts i need and i just dont feel like spending 20-30k fixing it at a shop. So is this a problem that you have heard off before?
What was the CGLC engines like on a 2016 a6
important also :swirl flaps out of range , turbo vacuum actuator
Cool thanks for the heads up, which years does this tend to affect? It sounds a more recent engine problem to me, the earlier ones didn't have swirl flaps AFAIK.
Swirl flaps actuator not sure I think all 16 valves
Is cheap to fix.
The turbo actuator failure makes the engine sluggish and weak (too low boost pressure) its function is to regulate boost pressure by putting the vanes in the turbo in the right angle error code p0299 engine goes in limp mode
Part costs 300 ish dollar
And is replacable while turbo is in place
This actuator is used on almost all the 4 cyl diesel
In the Vag range.
Interesting, thanks so much for adding to my knowledge. Neither Issue was on my radar for any of these engines, so I'll dig a little deeper now.
Bonjour , j’aimerais que vous me donniez un avis sur mon 2.0tdi 143cv il ne tourne pas rond il tremble dans tout les sens comme si le régime n’étais pas stable , j’ai une courte vidéo si vous voulez voir 😊 thank’s 🙃
Hi, would you be able to help me please?
| I have 2.0tdi A6 C6 2010 175bhp version.
Now, car runs smoothly when first started (cold engine), up until it starts warming up and as it gets to workign temp.
Then the idle is rough and shaky, and its noticeable that it has some weird noise, kind of cracking or something..
Car always drives nicely and accelerates fine.
Whole clutch has been changed.
At the moment its on 160k miles.
Thank you very much!
If it has been accidented or has a big intercooler, check that the radiator fan is not hitting the AC line and or missing pieces. Mine did that shaking with weird noise on idle when the fan would start running (when coolant hit 95°C). I investigated and found out the large fan was missing pieces causing it to be out of balance and shaking violently. Grabbed another fan from the scrapyard and problem solved...
Right now I am looking to buy a VW Golf MK6 2.0 TDI 140hp with engine code: CBAB from 2009. What should I look for? Should I be concerned about any problem with that particular engine from that year?
Hex oil pump and fuel pump. And your usual dpf and egr issues
Nothing really, bosch cp4 very reliable unless missfueled, oil pump not an issue since early pd engines around 2005. If odo is 200-250 a flywheel is due, other than that not really.
have a 2005 2.0TDI Audi A3 that has been sat with 1/2 tank of diesel for about 5months. when bought (had been sat for 2months with the diesel in, was running and sounding beautiful and idling really comfortably. about a week later the engine would no longer fire but would just tick over as you turn the key and stop after about a second. has been like this for the last 2 months and have had a few people suggest fuel pump / filter replacement or cleaning. any tips ? this is my first car and i have little money so looking to get a good diagnosis before losing too much
This video explains that fuel can degrade over time... ua-cam.com/video/d9Gt5x5AjAk/v-deo.html
A filter change should be a cheap option to see if it fixes it. Are you getting any error codes from the OBD port? That is usually the first place to look for clues when there is a problem.
This video goes into to Audi diesel cold and warm start problems so might give you some pointers.
ua-cam.com/video/BHjuezi6bNc/v-deo.html
@@torquecars amazing thanks so much for the speedy reply dude. No codes coming up when we ran a test on the OBD port tried two different tests on separate devices. will watch any videos i can so thanks a lot!
2.0 tdi bmm engine have dpf as well
Karoq 4×4 2019 dff engine. Is it successful or not.thanks
Hi there could anyone tell me if I’d find this code in the same place on my VW golf gt140 for the cylinder head please 🙏
Thank you for the great information. I am just wondering what is ''early generation''..
I bought a Mitsubishi Grandis which has a 2.0TDI VAG engine. It's a 2008 model. Is that early generation? No idea when VW started making these engines 🙄
In my mind the early generation were the pd engines which were made right up to 2008. But there were some issues with the first batch of cr engines that came out, but thankfully most owners have had these sorted if the faults were present. I didn't realize Mitsubishi used these engines so I've learnt something from you.
I got Skoda 2.0 TDI ENGINE
I was crushing on highway and suddenly heard noise from engine and when I check I noticed air is blowing out from intake and intake mainfold melted at 2nd priston
any suggestions what is the issue
Engine still runs but I see black smoke from exhaust
Do a compression test, You'll probably find the valves on cylinder 2 are failing in some way, exhaust gases are exiting to the intake causing it to melt, I can't think of specifics at the moment other than perhaps a gasket problem.
Let me know what you discover though, I'm sure you'll not be alone and someone else out there will benefit from your findings.
Hi chap, interesting watch.
Im looking at buying a 2009 b6 passat tdi 2.0 CR . It has the cbab engine and is on 189k miles. Is it likely to have had a oil pump drive fix. I know the hex key can cause problems but at this mileage surely it cant be an issue. As in its either been replaced or isnt one prone to failure
You never can tell, but if it's the original weak one and has lasted this long its a good one, if it was weak and broke it was replaced many moons ago. Is there evidence of a service history? If the owner has cared for it then you should have little to worry about.
Also thought the same as mine is on 173k. Most likely replaced
The video is mixing the PD engines (up to 2008) with the CR engines, after 05/06 the oil pump failures disappeared mostly (BRE, BRA audi) and then balance shaft assemblies with the hex oil drive was strengthened with and extra 15mm of hex shaft driving the pump. Gen1 CR engines very reliable i work on lots with over 400k.
I will separate these engines out and do a more focused video for the later CR engines. I feel the Gen3 also deserves it's own video due to the sheer number of revisions. This video was based on an old article on my website so it's time to update that as well whilst I'm at it.
Please help got touran bkd engine 140bhp keeps ideing high please help
I'm looking at an audi a6 2007 with the 2.0 tdi. Are they any good?
I have a problem with my turbo on 2.0 tdi 103kw, golf 5 2004 generation, I’ve repaired it 2 days ago the turbo is now new but I’ve had a problem that the car put’s itself always in safe mode when I keep my speed, for example, I’m going 130km/h in 6th gear and after 10 - 20 seconds the turbo shut’s off.. But when I floor it everything is normal, I was going 180km/h and it didn’t shut off.. Checked everything around the turbo and it’s fine.. Only solution right now I think is to buy a new throttle valve because only after 3000rpm it gives me full power..
How strange, are you getting any error codes flashing up? Is the EGR working OK?
@@torquecars we cleaned the egr it’s like new
Sounds like an underboost condition after 10 sec, if the new turbo can be trusted then check for leaks in the vac system.
Hello I want to buy a Skoda Superb 3, 2.0 TDI 140kw, 190 HP with 200.000 km can you tell me please what problems I can meet with this car
These two videos should help answer your question.
ua-cam.com/video/TgPQe12d_sw/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/8ULVvk9shig/v-deo.html
Thinking about the mileage the DPF may be nearing end of life, it depends how well it's been looked after and may well have already been replaced. If the turbo has a whine it could indicate the turbo has started to wear out also.
There is not much to go wrong with these unless they have not been serviced correctly and with the correct grade of oil.
This video is about these engines to 2009... the B?? engines, 3 letter engine codes starting with B . I take it that the cylinder head for EA189 engines, eg CEGA, would be like a "C" cylinder head and not have the problem ???
Sabes cuál es nivel de emisión de gases de CO2 de este coche?
I got a 2013 exeo diesel, its rough idling, starts perfect, runs well, its just when it's ticking over. New EGR, new Fuel temp and rail pressure sensor.
What I have noticed is the coolant temperature is reading about 20 degrees cooler that what the engine itself is. Any ideas. The car has done 134,000 miles. Any help is much appreciated
Are you comparing oil temperature with coolant temp?
Engine oil loss and poor fuel efficiency. 250 miles per tank. No visible oil leaks. Any ideas ?
Low compression in one or more cylinders, can all cause low fuel economy and clogged fuel injector or blocked DPF can cause higher fuel consumption. Check for error codes they can often indicate faults and problems. A compression test will also be a useful part of diagnoses here for you. A turbo failing can also cause these issues but you will typically get a whine or siren noise at the same time. If you engine has a DPF you may not see smoke from the burning oil in the exhaust.
When we get common VAG problems we go to the doctors.
not very clear on where to find the A, B or C????
Anyone know why my Audi a3 2010 starts but won’t drive.
Class upload👏
Hey, I have a MK6 Golf 2010/11 2.0tdi CFFB. Currently it sits right now at 130k kilometers or 81k miles, are these engines have a oil pump shaft problem? If they have it, at what millage should I consider to replace it?
You shouldn't have a problem, after making this video and chatting with a few people is seems the oil pump shaft problem was mainly a pre 2008 PD engine issue. There were a few borderline old stock engines around 2009 but the CFFB is the modern CR engine. If I find anything else out on this I'll let you know. Most of this video is aimed at the early PD engines, so I'll do another CR and a Gen3 TDi video when I've got all the facts together.
I have skoda superb 2015 2.0 140hp CFFB engine im taxi driver i buy the car at 115k miles replace waterpum and belt drive 2 years now 190k miles start to leaks water from water pump
I got a skoda 2013 cfhc engine code. Problem is it cranks sometimes longer than usual. Sometimes no problem,but then 3-4 times longer crank till it fires up.
Battery is ok,and no fault codes..
Any suggestions i should check??
Are the glow plugs warming up ok? Is the Thermostat working ok? Have you checked the alternator - a good battery can still struggle if the alternator is not topping up the current. Other things could be the starter itself, a weak motor, poor connection or something like that.
@@torquecars high pressure fuel pump/tandem pump did cause these exact symptoms on the pd engines. I don't know if the cr engines have them
Hello guys. I want to buy a golf 6 plus 2.0 TDI CR 103 KW/140 HP. I want to know which engine code has the lowest problems. I just know that i should escape the first 3 years of CR engines, so i should go 2012-2014 year model. Or can you suggest some 2.0 tdi engine code even if it is not in golf 6 plus. It can be tuaran, passat, jeta....or maybe some skoda model. Thank you a lot.
From 2012 most of the early problems including the emissions scandal were ironed out, generally get the newest version of the engine you can so I would choose a higher mileage 2015 over a low mileage 2012 one. The Gen 2 and even better Gen 3 engines are pretty solid if well looked after. If you only do short journeys then this is probably not the engine for you, they like to be used a lot and pushed hard.
I have a 140 tdi dsg in a 2012 Touran. Not one visit to VW apart from software update from exhaust scandal. Change oil every 5k and dsg every 25/30k. Still have same brake pads in !!!!
I'm looking at getting a 2014 2l tdi caddy van. Is there anything common issues on these models?
Nothing too special to look out for on these, but check for a full service history. Many vans are poorly serviced and if they carry heavy loads and do lots of stop start journeys they really need fresh oil.
Thanks for great advices. 👍 can you please tell me what can couse lite engine shaking when idling on my audi a4 2006 2.0tdi automatic? I would really appreciate some advice.
It could be the Dual Mass Flywheel playing up - these do quite a bit of work keeping these engines running smoothly. To be honest though these all have a minor wobble on tickover especially when pointing down a hill. It feels like a misfire or judder every few seconds and is quite normal. It sound like yours is more pronounced than this.
Other issues could be unbalanced compression between the cylinders, effectively giving a wide range of power on each cylinder which can cause vibration.
@@torquecars thank you, you made the perfect diagnosis,I will start from there. Have a nice day😊😊
What would you class as a short journey?
Anything where the engine temps are still low, so it depends on the weather and how you drive to some extent, but the engine needs to be at operating temperature for as long as possible, my 2.0 TDi didn't warm up that slowly but it still took around 7-8mins of driving before the temp needle started moving so for me I would try to avoid 15 min or less drives otherwise you'll have those annoying DPF issues. A good run every couple of days can help though and will to some extent make up for a short journey.
Thanks, Caillou
Hi, do you know if there is any fix for "emission fix" think is there any remap or something?
Please help, Audi a3 1.9 tdi 2008, oil mix with coolant like milkshake head gasket changed a year ago now some people say head gasket some say oil cooler 🤔 please advise me what to do and are you in uk do have a garage we can visit ?
Many thanks
Really hard to track these things down, could be a cracked cylinder head, the gasket could have gone again, the head bolts may have stretched (hope they put new ones on), did the head get skimmed on the last gasket change? Sorry I don't have a UK garage myself, but where about are you I might know someone near you who can help I have picked up quite a few contacts over the years.
Thank you so much for your reply and your time
I don’t know tbf what they have done to my car I don’t have so much knowledge
About cars
And I live in Portsmouth if anyone you know can help I will be happy to pay any amount and more if they do good job and sort the problem
Many thanks 🙏🏻
I have a 2014 VW crafter which is a giant van, it has the single turbo 109bhp 2.0 tdi engine, I noticed you saying you had it an A3? are there differences in a commercial 2.0l tdi to the Audi A3? worrying because I think the engine must be under tremendous strain hauling such a big van. Cheers
These engines are very torquey and able to handle pretty heavy loads. The same block is available as a 170hp version so they are pretty strong and the 109hp is not a struggle. NB: Gearing is generally different on these but the engines are essentially the same mechanically. The different power outputs were down to mapping, fuel injectors and turbos. It is important the mapper doesn't apply a car oriented map to a diesel van, most will adjust the torque curve to suit as needed.
@@torquecars thanks so much for explaining that and thanks for the upload
A common fault i dont see in your video, Turbos with VGT or whatever your brand calls it, mine has it, they gum up badly with carbon especially with an egr delete. Causing limp home mode, low power and overboost codes in the computer. Easy to fix, full engine service and engine flush, inject mr muscle into the exhaust side of the turbo leave for 15 to 20 mins, bolt it up, start it up, wait for tempratures to rise and drive on the motor way in 4th or 5th for a few miles with the revs around 3000rpm, will clean right up and the codes will vanish on there own. Have to do it every coupple years. And remember after your drive to check the post service fluid levels, DO NOT run them turbos with low engine oil levels, biggest reason they fail is oil starvation from low level
And on your Single Mass Flywheel Conversion, you will enjoy if you go have the car updated at just about any garage, you need to increase the IDLE RPM Offset to 150 to 200, increasing idle revs to 1000 rpm, just over 950 rpm they smoothe right out. Getting rid of the DMF of my C-MAX Many years ago was the best thing i ever did, transformed the way she drove.
Interesting comment, thanks for your input my friend. So the EGR delete can cause this problem, it wasn't something I was aware of but does make a lot of sense.
That is a good tip, most people I've known with a single mass flywheel on these have had vibration issues, but in fairness they generally fitted quite light flywheels to them. Personally I would source a lighter dual mass but totally understand it depends on your aims on the car project and what you can get in your area.
@@torquecars I would say its more prone to the problem with the EGR Deleted or not working correctly, all turbos get buildup on them, its just with the VGT that buildup has some funkey effects, all making the car a pain to drive, cos with no boost well no go. But Mr Muscel in the turbo hot side clean her right up, and then excersize the car and VGT to make sure its freed up. Had it happen on my mapped baby and the wife bog standard gutless wonder.
Golf gtd/mk3 octavia vrs diesel common to drink more oil than usual ??
Mines started drinking alot. Mapped stage 1 tdi
I’m looking to buy a 2011 Skoda superb elegance 2.0 tdi 125kw, it’s got roughly 65k miles. What can I expect in upcoming services and what exact model tdi engine would this have?
Cheers
What's the 2013 177 TDI engines like?
They are really good, most of the issues have been completely engineered out, I have a video I'm currently working on that covers the EA288 and 2018 EVO revisions of this great engine. I would not hesitate recommending one, especially if you do lots of distance driving and can keep the DPF happy and hot. However if you only do short journeys, although the DPF design is much improved I would recommend you look at a petrol engine like the 1.4 TFSi.
So which year is the best engine ?
The last of the PD's especially the BKD up to around 2007, from 2008 there was a dip in quality along with the conversion to CR but by 2011 most of these issues have been ironed out.
I would be happy with ANY of these engines with a Bosch ECU (except for 2008-2010), AS LONG AS IT HAD A FULL SERVICE HISTORY. The key is maintaining them properly really.
Great vide once again, Which year engines had the chains and the belts. Thank you for your support and the in advance
Why my 2016 golf tdi variant got 1000 rpm when the car is stopped??
Could be a number of reasons for the high idle speed (around 8-900 is normal for most of these engines). The most common thing in my experience is if the current drops from the alternator it will increase revs to compensate so in most cases a worn out alternator or something causing high battery drain will cause this.
Or it could be dpf regeneration is on
So the tdi engine in seat Leon fr 2010 is bad or good?
They are pretty good options imho. They have the newer CR setup and most of the early issues were ironed out by 2010. The 2012 version is better still. You won't be disappointed but I would strongly recommend buying one with a full service history and checking the major points in this video.
c cracks too.
You are very correct it does, but I've only ever seen one go, they are much better than the B and A which were notoriously bad. I wish I could get to the bottom of the cause of this it's IMO either manufacturing/design defect or some thing to do with hot/cold cycles during use and high RPM's when cold or something like that.
@@torquecars Probably defective design. Mine cracked, and other people I know cracked C. even on stock hardware
Interesting, thanks for your feedback. Hopefully we'll get to the bottom of this one once and for all. There was nothing like this on the 1.9TDi was there!?
Hi this is for cbab engine
Hey how can I tell what specific level trim I have on my 2011 jetta tdi sportwagen?? I think its the 170 but im not 100%
Thanks man, I'll stick to Toyota lol.
Motore CR Leon FR sigla CFJ 170 CV sono affidabili oppure no grazie
Yes they are same as the mk6 GTD
Das oil catch can helps?
Yes in my experience this will prevent a lot of the tiny oil droplets fouling up the intake. It's not a perfect fix but makes the problem much better.
@@torquecars Thank you ! I have a Peugeot 1.6 2014 I didn’t have any problems accept DPF filter plug. When that happened, I put Dpf off, Erg of the new map. Nothing extreme it’s a little torquer at the bottom rpm. And maybe 15 hp up. It is for sale now. I’m looking for a Skoda Superb 2.0 tdi or something similar. I’m buying a used car so I cannot be to picky.
Lol, you missed a fair number of issues. At least be thorough if you're going to all the trouble of making a video about these engines.
PCV valve cooling - seal
line that sends carter gases into turbo
Vacuum pump/vacuum lines
thermostat
injector seals
turbo actuator start/end positions
air flow meter
oil pump hex drive key for balance shaft
fuel pump - people are replacing bosch CP4 with CP3 to prevent filings screwing the entire fuel system (tank/injectors/lines etc)
It would be a really long boring video if I listed everything that could possibly go wrong. The criterion used was problems that crop up most often and affected most versions of this engine. I will refocus on each generation of this engine where I can drill down into the smaller niggles that were unique to each generation.
To be honest I didn't think anyone would want to watch a video on engine problems but I've been surprised by the feedback and response it has had so far.
There are a few items on your list I was completely unaware of so I'll research those thoroughly and report back in a future video.
@@torquecars the fuel pump, hex drive key and thermostat are common issues on ea189 and the most relevant since they cause the most catastrophic failures
The turbo actuator becomes an issue if an incompetent mechanic has done work on the car in that specific area
Pcv and Carter gases line are somewhat common as well
Injector seals remain undiagnosed because the users don't look for them and mechanics don't care
Interesting, you are a handy guy to know. I'll look into these for the next videos on each generation of the 2.0 TDi engines.
I've heard claims that the EVO Gen 3 irons out pretty much all of the problems, but others have told me it's just as bad as the previous one? What are your thoughts?
@@torquecars don't know. I've only done research on the engine in my car. It's somewhat helpful that most of the cars in Eastern Europe are old diesels and some of them are not serviced as often as they should. The issues are fairly reoccuring and well known.
One of the worst diesel engines.
I've a 2015 Jetta with engine code 03L 021 CA. Is it ea188 or ea189 ?
The EA189 production ended in 2015 so it will most likely be that one, the EA188 ended 2006 or thereabouts so definitely not that one.