As a retired toolmaker from down under to obtain smoother sharpening results clamp the blade closer to the sharpering area to prevent vibration and and give it more solid area !!!
Sharing a tip I read somewhere that works well for preserving blades - Make cuts using a 'pulse' action, rather than just pushing the blade through the material as hard as you can. Backing the blade out a tiny bit for just a moment helps clear the cut of material that might otherwise get compacted around the blade and, it reduces the build up of heat that softens the blade metal and causing the teeth to go dull quickly. I've tried this and the difference in blade life is noticable.
Good idea to re-sharpen the blades, What struck me was how easy it was to file the teeth. Meaning the metal blade is soft and would explain how quickly these expensive blades go blunt ......
Worth watching some videos on sharpening hand-saws. The same techniques are valuable here; eg: rip or crosscut, put the saw plate nearer the clamping pressure, how to joint the teeth first, etc.
These are great "save a trip to the store" methods if you are trying to squeeze in one last cut to get a job done. Time is money! One cool product that I've never used but came across is called the "SHARP POG Oscillatory Multi-Tool Blade Sharpener" which is a specialized grinding wheel that recreates the teeth. Interesting concept I guess...might be able to make your own using stacked and spaced cut-off discs but there is a product out there already.
Great! The only problem is the "burrs" you ground off were the set of the teeth, without a set there is no clearance for the cut, so you must put a set back n the teeth.
More attention to using the typical "swiss file" sharpening technique works very well. But than more time means more money to some. I also would like to share a great idea for fixing metal cutting multi-tool or oscillating blades. Once the metal cutting blades stop working so well, there is a pretty good way to make them actually better than new. I take a hacksaw blade and cut them the length of the metal cutting multi-tool blades. Then using a welder, spot weld that hacksaw blade onto the end of the worn out metal cutting blade and you will be amazed how well that idea works cutting metal screws and nails in the material. Works absolutely amazing...and really cheap as well.
Thanks for the video! I find that between the bulk pricing available and the quick change on my DeWalt it's much faster (time is money) to throw it away and put a new blade on
I used the small files to make big V-shaped teeth (like VVVVVVVV) and those cut pretty good. also, when using a multitool, don't put much pressure on it, just let the tool do it's work slowly. If you push hard, you'll just push the blade into the material and your tool will oscillate instead of the blade, which becomes stuck on the material and won't go left/right as it's supposed to, up to a point where your blade won't vibrate at all and won't cut anything. It's like using a hammer drill and pushing so hard you work against the hammer function of your drill, turning it into an ordinary drill and negate the benefits of having a hammer drill. Try drilling into concrete with the hammer function disabled, you won't get far.
As a Handyman/Renovator, I started re-sharpening my oscillating tool blades about 5 years ago, after collecting a drawer of worn out blades. I use a combination of your first and second method. Re-cut the teeth with a cutting wheel on the Dremel tool and then make a few passes on each tooth with the mini hand files. Angling the hand files at about 30 degrees to the blade creates a sharpened tooth and improves the cutting performance considerably. Each blade takes about 5 minutes to sharpen. If you spend one hour sharpening 12 blades, even at a new blade price of $15 per blade, you will be earning $180 per hour in savings. My resharpened blades have become my go-to for wood, pvc and other soft materials. I keep one or two high quality Diablo titanium blades in my toolbox, but only use them for extreme hard metals such as drywall screws. The Diablo blades used sparingly last for several years. For general cutting, I haven't bought new blades for 5 years. Sharpening and old blade to a smooth knife edge makes an excellent scraper for caulking and hardened adhesives. I've also reshaped and sharpened a few old blades into razor sharp "hook blades" which are excellent to cut heavy fabrics, sheet rubber, soft plastic sheet goods and thick leather.
When you file a saw plate you have to put the saw as far into the vise as possible. The teeth need to just barely stick out. Otherwise the saw plate vibrates all over the place and the file just chatters trying to make the cut.
Using a vise badly and then holding the tip of the blade to stop it wobbling is possibly the funniest thing I've seen today. Oops, I just got to the angle grinder bit.
Same thing when actually cutting wood. Keep the cut near to a vice (or clamp) or the wood will tend to move a bit with the blade and make the cut less effective
There is a lady on UA-cam that gives tips on things for woodworking and she shows how to sharpen these blades. The teeth od the blade just above the vice prevents the blade from vibrating and easier to sharpen each tooth good man
I noticed you just filed the teeth vertically. In a blade, the teeth are cut on a diagonal and angled out a little. Instead of filing them at 90 degrees, could you try it at about 60-70 deg? I think it would be difficult to bend them out back and forth with a file, but if you can I'd love to see your comparison there, too. Thanks
Appreciate the sharpening testing methods with timing to back it up. Definitely would go this route if time isn’t money for you i.e. retired. For me I buy a pack of 50 for $30 as sharpening isn’t worth $.60. Keep up the good work! 👍🏼
You really should be able to sharpen a saw blade to better than factory. Because mass produced saws are just punch cut. They're not actually sharpened at the factory. The teeth are just formed. So you can make the argument that by sharpening you are getting a superior tool.
You need to watch a few videos about sharpening hand saws. Clamp it close to the teeth and get the angles as close to the original, I can here those file strokes chattering.
Great video, I hadn't thought of resharpening these blades. They're fairly expensive and definitely get dull. Of course there are several parameters to tooth shape. Adding some fleam angle might help for this kind of blade in wood.
I've been wanting to try the file method but also liked the Dremel method as well. My thought with the Dremel is to go in at a bit more of an angle. Maybe even consider combining it with your triangle file. Just a thought
This was my thought too. I think if you took it down initially with the Drenel, then fne tuned it with the file, you could probably get it pretty sharp again.
The multi-tool doesn't really cut...it scrapes.... to one side then the other. The user needs to pause fairly often, pull the blade back so it can shake the debris off and continue. Yes, it needs to be sharpened...but not like a traditional knife or saw blade....just squared (or pointed) edges. Rounded off isn't gunna scrape anything.
I just ordered my first oscillating tool. I also just found out how expensive blades and attachments are so I'm really glad I found your videos. Just wondering, have you tried sharpening blades using a Dremel with a diamond blade? You showed using a cut-off blade, but I've found they break too easily. Given the diamond blades are thinner and way less prone to breaking, I'm thinking they might work really well for sharpening. One thing is for sure, I'll definitely be sharpening my blades. I thought it was brilliant how you repurposed them into scrapers and carpet tools when the teeth were toast. Great tips.
The reason wiggling the tool speeds the cut is it enables the tool to clear the sawdust, same should work with pulsing the tool in and out. I bought an oscillating multi-tool for a specific job, but as a hobbyist woodworker I don't find myself reaching for it very often, however a handyman friend of mine uses his all the time.
This was a very interesting and informative video. I had a similar multi-tool and the blades do tend to become dull pretty fast and I am going to try to sharpen the teeth by using my Dremel tool.👍
I be used these multi tools for years and often If you use light pressure and let the tool do the cutting the tool will cut faster and I can make the blade last for weeks depending on what I'm cutting and if the blade it getting hot your pushing to hard
I have been using a small triangular saw file for this. Works well. I will try a Dremel as well. I have had good results with a badly worn blade by grinding bit back to flat and re-cutting teeth.
You are supposed to joint a blade before you sharpen it. Jointing means running a flat file across the tips of the teeth. That trues them all up and leaves flats that you then remove to get an even tooth pitch.
@@1pcfred yes for conventional hand saws. The teeth on a multi tool blade are so small that topping or flat filing is not practical. You would have a tough time seeing the top of each tooth, let alone file them with the correct gullet shape and angle. My method works well for me on the multi tool but everyone can make their own choice.
@@gregarrell6132 yeah sharpening saws is a bit of a trick. I wear a magnifying visor when I do it. I use a strong light. I have a saw vise. I use double extra slim taper second cut files. There's no fleem on multitool blades. They're rip sharpened. So your "special angle" is 90° and horizontal too. High pitch saw plates are always rip cut. Once you go below 13 TPI fleem isn't going to do anything for you. So keep it simple.
Good point Paul. I also get a bit more life out of my recipro saw blades. They really over priced here in Australia. They also have teeth that are large enough to see and file. The down side is the hardened alloy is too hard to get much result with triangular saw files. Quality saw files are both scarce and expensive. I may consider a small diamond or silicon oxide v shaped grinding wheel. Any thought on that!
Time vs money. If you have new blades on hand perfect, but even us Eagle Scouts occassionally fall short on being prepared. This video does prepare me however to recover mid-project and continue if I dont want to make the trip to the store right away.
Yeh, before watching this vid, I figured it out myself, using a thin metal cutting disc on my hand held grinder with the blade held firmly in place in a vice. I successfully cut some new grooves with excellent results. They haven't gotta be perfect: Like in all things, with practice it get's better. Happy cutting...🙂
Wow,super duper cool,caring is sharing,i love helping people because it is so rewarding to see people smile and when i make someone else happy i am happy,it gives me motivation to help others when someone shares ideas or helps me.Thank you
When you create the new teeth, then you have to create that is called a path so you need to bend a little bit, each tooth in opposite direction to each others, you can also see that path in each new blade that has big or little teeth, so means put each tooth a little bit in opposite direction to the previous tooth.
Useful. as a means of a practical workaround and for extending life of blades which tend to be relatively expensive. I would advise caution where a rotating grinding method is used: too much heat will draw the temper of the blade, which as a result, would not cut well for very long after resharpening. I would also - using wood off-cuts - clamp the blade as close to the teeth as possible to minimise flexing when sharpening, especially when using a three cornered file. Query: most ‘sawtooth’ cutting tools have “set” which is effective for removing cuttings and helps to keep blade cool and prevent or minimise risks of creating burns in the wood. Not easy to tell if oscillating blades have a set as with a typical handsaw…….
You're correct on both points. The "set" of the teeth must at least provide a kerf as wide as the thickness of the blade, otherwise binding and smoking will happen. You can set the teeth opposing each other or all to one side skipping every other one. The latter would work similar to a Japanese saw that doesn't leave a scar on one side.
I used the bench grinder to cut teeth into it by using the corner of the stone. The advantage is it's much faster to do and also I don't have to remove the blade from the tool. Not sure about the cutting time, but I did restore it's cutting ability.
It might be worth trying a miniature diamond file. It's probably no good for something where the teeth have been complete worn away, but the metal on those blades is hardened, and if the aim to to get a part-worn blade function better, then they are more like to hone the metal better than those relatively coarse metal toothed files. The diamond files also have a better defined profile for that very reason.
Thanks for the video, you picked up a new subscriber. The first sharpening technique with the file: Are the teeth set (similar to a handsaw), do you think the teeth need to be set?
Definitely good methods to pinch some more $ out of blades, but there's a number of days were swapping to another 50 cent blade from Amazon is cheaper than my time spent sharpening. Not a bad way to recover damaged blades if you find yourself really needing to save them or ran out on the job site, good tips n tricks and that's 👍
I got questions?? I saw the video on your channel Obviously Now I like the Dremel brand blades they are designed for multi material Copper aluminum wood Now they get dulledlike any other blades will I will like to know if you have any input on the sharpening of these types of blades ther a bit more rugged compared to the blad s I saw you sharpen Any input please Thank you in advance
In my opinion, the best way to sharpen these multi-tool blades is to use a diamond rhombic saw file. I bought this file from TEMU specifically for my fine-tooth Japanese saws ($4 to $6). I also bought a whole bunch of multi-tool blades in bulk really cheap from TEMU too so it would be like sharpening disposable razers--not necessary just throw them away.
Yeah, with the proper file, it would would be worth the few minutes to sharpen a blade at least a couple of times, just to get the most out of one blade. The other methods modify the tooth count/pattern so much that you don't have the same blade anymore.
@@awlthatwoodcrafts8911 Best way would be to sharpen is the way you sharpen hand saws level the teeth then use a triangular file to fix the points and depth of the gullets.
I don't have any oscillating cutters, but I do have several cutting wheels and a Dremel tool. So I know what I would use if I had an oscillating cutting tool. As always thank you for sharing and as Dave hacks would put it on another UA-cam channel "Pretty Cool Huh"! You folks have a great blessed one stay safe and healthy.
You forgot thr stacked 1mm thick metal slicing discs used on grinders seoerated by washers..about 10 1mm thick discs should suffice..yours sincerely from the old qeer corrupt UK 🇬🇧
Ive been buying my blades on Amazon 100 blades for $50.00. free shipping next day delivery. Dont think I will waste my time sharpening something that has a 50 cent value.
The perpendicular file and wheel cuts push burrs out the flat edges. You need to hone those burrs off with a flat stone. A sharp edge is 2 polished edges coming together, not edges with machining burrs.
Multi tools can be a wonder tool - something that you might not use all that often but when you have a need for them, nothing else will do. The real archilies-heel with them is the cost of the blades which is quite ridiculous. The cheaper ones on-line are next to useless. I really believe the right answer is to buy the best quality blades you can find and then look after them. Sharpening has its place but as you can see it's really a 'better than nothing' option.
Dremel needs to be tilted @ 11 or 1 to create knife edges and held at opposing angles to create a vee between teeth. The big issue with vibrating saws is poor ejection and weak teeth.
I sharpened my blade to a chisel point to cut ceiling tiles, worked great.. Since the blade cuts side to side, they should be sharpened at an angle, not straight up & down.
You should mention that this only works with bi-metal blades intended for cutting wood. Carbide tipped blades for cutting metal can't be sharpened like this.
A small piece of advice Those blades you sharpen Probably have an off set to those teeth Along with a different pitch That is one tooth will be sharpened like the off set on a hand saw and the other tooth similarly and then you will have the tooth displaced to the side a small amount. Check it out to see if you can do that, You might be surprised by the difference in cutting
apart from the hand filing, I do not understand how these methods are "sharpening" when using the grind wheels, as you are not putting any sort of bevel on the teeth to create an actual sharpened edge. All you seem to be doing is making square faced gaps at the front of the blade.
I bought a pack of 1/32 inch cut off wheels and took a bolt and put a bunch of the cut off wheels on with washer in between each wheel put it in my drill press and made all the teeth at once.
Best way is to just buy new blade sas they do not cost very much at all. 4th way ok as a scraper. Only thing is most grinding wheel say not to use side. Face use only.
If you angle the small cut-off (dremel) wheel, so that the teeth were at an angle - / - (instead of straight up-n-down)- I - it would remove the cut-wood more efficiently, and thus cut faster,.....
I have been told that grinding on the side of a friable grinding wheel 6:20 like that can cause that wheel to come apart. Is this a special grinding wheel?
5:36 I do this to sawsall blades to cut through plaster walls, cement board, hardi backer board etc. I'm sure that blade would work well on those same materials.
This is one of those times I would rather stock up on blades from Harbor Freight. For the infrequent times I use my Oscillating tool, I buy the better quality blades.
These blades don’t seem to be heat treated like a hack saw blade. A hack saw can cut a piece of angle iron and still be sharp. These blades a few cuts in wood and they get dull. I’ve few that the teeth are gone all together just from cutting wood.
I use the Oscillating tool A Lot! I Hate the Price of The Blades! They have to be the biggest price gouge since Shaving Razors. That said,I ve tried the cheap Harbor Freight Blades.As expected they are junk .Actually much worse than I Anticipated! So ,I buy the (Name Brand Ones) and some of them not so great either! I have been pleasantly surprised by the De Walt blades for extra long line life hardened ones!They're not cheap but are about the same as other brand names or even less! I just cut laminate counter tops in half and hardwood cabinet faces in two ,also inch thick shelving ,hemlock I think . Got it all done with one blade .I then cut thru hardened old subfloor .Best blades so far.
As a retired toolmaker from down under to obtain smoother sharpening results clamp the blade closer to the sharpering area to prevent vibration and and give it more solid area !!!
Sharing a tip I read somewhere that works well for preserving blades - Make cuts using a 'pulse' action, rather than just pushing the blade through the material as hard as you can. Backing the blade out a tiny bit for just a moment helps clear the cut of material that might otherwise get compacted around the blade and, it reduces the build up of heat that softens the blade metal and causing the teeth to go dull quickly. I've tried this and the difference in blade life is noticable.
Yeah exactly, I try and score it first then go deeper. I also use it at an angle instead of plunging it all the way through. Seems to help save blades
Can confirm. Just gone through a bunch of blades cutting into fiberglass. It also helps stop the blades from overheating.
Good idea to re-sharpen the blades, What struck me was how easy it was to file the teeth. Meaning the metal blade is soft and would explain how quickly these expensive blades go blunt ......
Thanks from Australia - I've got heaps of dull blades - never thought of sharpening them before, Great advice!
Worth watching some videos on sharpening hand-saws. The same techniques are valuable here; eg: rip or crosscut, put the saw plate nearer the clamping pressure, how to joint the teeth first, etc.
These are great "save a trip to the store" methods if you are trying to squeeze in one last cut to get a job done. Time is money! One cool product that I've never used but came across is called the "SHARP POG Oscillatory Multi-Tool Blade Sharpener" which is a specialized grinding wheel that recreates the teeth. Interesting concept I guess...might be able to make your own using stacked and spaced cut-off discs but there is a product out there already.
Great! The only problem is the "burrs" you ground off were the set of the teeth, without a set there is no clearance for the cut, so you must put a set back n the teeth.
More attention to using the typical "swiss file" sharpening technique works very well. But than more time means more money to some. I also would like to share a great idea for fixing metal cutting multi-tool or oscillating blades. Once the metal cutting blades stop working so well, there is a pretty good way to make them actually better than new. I take a hacksaw blade and cut them the length of the metal cutting multi-tool blades. Then using a welder, spot weld that hacksaw blade onto the end of the worn out metal cutting blade and you will be amazed how well that idea works cutting metal screws and nails in the material. Works absolutely amazing...and really cheap as well.
That is a great idea, thank you very much for sharing it with everyone.
Thanks for the video! I find that between the bulk pricing available and the quick change on my DeWalt it's much faster (time is money) to throw it away and put a new blade on
I used the small files to make big V-shaped teeth (like VVVVVVVV) and those cut pretty good. also, when using a multitool, don't put much pressure on it, just let the tool do it's work slowly. If you push hard, you'll just push the blade into the material and your tool will oscillate instead of the blade, which becomes stuck on the material and won't go left/right as it's supposed to, up to a point where your blade won't vibrate at all and won't cut anything. It's like using a hammer drill and pushing so hard you work against the hammer function of your drill, turning it into an ordinary drill and negate the benefits of having a hammer drill. Try drilling into concrete with the hammer function disabled, you won't get far.
As a Handyman/Renovator, I started re-sharpening my oscillating tool blades about 5 years ago, after collecting a drawer of worn out blades. I use a combination of your first and second method. Re-cut the teeth with a cutting wheel on the Dremel tool and then make a few passes on each tooth with the mini hand files. Angling the hand files at about 30 degrees to the blade creates a sharpened tooth and improves the cutting performance considerably. Each blade takes about 5 minutes to sharpen. If you spend one hour sharpening 12 blades, even at a new blade price of $15 per blade, you will be earning $180 per hour in savings. My resharpened blades have become my go-to for wood, pvc and other soft materials. I keep one or two high quality Diablo titanium blades in my toolbox, but only use them for extreme hard metals such as drywall screws. The Diablo blades used sparingly last for several years. For general cutting, I haven't bought new blades for 5 years.
Sharpening and old blade to a smooth knife edge makes an excellent scraper for caulking and hardened adhesives. I've also reshaped and sharpened a few old blades into razor sharp "hook blades" which are excellent to cut heavy fabrics, sheet rubber, soft plastic sheet goods and thick leather.
When you file a saw plate you have to put the saw as far into the vise as possible. The teeth need to just barely stick out. Otherwise the saw plate vibrates all over the place and the file just chatters trying to make the cut.
Same thought here, that blade should be steady. I would run the file on top first to even it up & then do each teeth
Using a vise badly and then holding the tip of the blade to stop it wobbling is possibly the funniest thing I've seen today. Oops, I just got to the angle grinder bit.
Same thing when actually cutting wood. Keep the cut near to a vice (or clamp) or the wood will tend to move a bit with the blade and make the cut less effective
Maybe the guy should do a video no the correct uses of a vice!!
Hard to take seriously when he can't sharpen in vice properely!!!!!!!
Excellent Advice and tips!
Your video inspires me to sharpen my own Multitool's, blades.
Thank you, and very Well done!
There is a lady on UA-cam that gives tips on things for woodworking and she shows how to sharpen these blades. The teeth od the blade just above the vice prevents the blade from vibrating and easier to sharpen each tooth good man
I noticed you just filed the teeth vertically. In a blade, the teeth are cut on a diagonal and angled out a little. Instead of filing them at 90 degrees, could you try it at about 60-70 deg? I think it would be difficult to bend them out back and forth with a file, but if you can I'd love to see your comparison there, too.
Thanks
Appreciate the sharpening testing methods with timing to back it up. Definitely would go this route if time isn’t money for you i.e. retired. For me I buy a pack of 50 for $30 as sharpening isn’t worth $.60. Keep up the good work! 👍🏼
Where do you buy blades in bulk?
@@JT_70 amazon. Got 50 for like $25 6 months ago. They are very cheaply made though. Hit 1 screw and you are done with it lol.
@@JT_70 Amazon, just look at the rating and reviews prior to purchasing.
You really should be able to sharpen a saw blade to better than factory. Because mass produced saws are just punch cut. They're not actually sharpened at the factory. The teeth are just formed. So you can make the argument that by sharpening you are getting a superior tool.
Just remember 3 milwaukee blades are like $25
You need to watch a few videos about sharpening hand saws. Clamp it close to the teeth and get the angles as close to the original, I can here those file strokes chattering.
Great video, I hadn't thought of resharpening these blades. They're fairly expensive and definitely get dull. Of course there are several parameters to tooth shape. Adding some fleam angle might help for this kind of blade in wood.
I don't think multitool blades are sharpened to a crosscut pattern.
I've been wanting to try the file method but also liked the Dremel method as well. My thought with the Dremel is to go in at a bit more of an angle. Maybe even consider combining it with your triangle file. Just a thought
This was my thought too. I think if you took it down initially with the Drenel, then fne tuned it with the file, you could probably get it pretty sharp again.
The multi-tool doesn't really cut...it scrapes.... to one side then the other. The user needs to pause fairly often, pull the blade back so it can shake the debris off and continue. Yes, it needs to be sharpened...but not like a traditional knife or saw blade....just squared (or pointed) edges. Rounded off isn't gunna scrape anything.
Since the blade oscillates in the tool itself, why do you move it back and forth while you're cutting?
bonus tip 4 was worth hanging around for.
I just ordered my first oscillating tool. I also just found out how expensive blades and attachments are so I'm really glad I found your videos. Just wondering, have you tried sharpening blades using a Dremel with a diamond blade? You showed using a cut-off blade, but I've found they break too easily. Given the diamond blades are thinner and way less prone to breaking, I'm thinking they might work really well for sharpening. One thing is for sure, I'll definitely be sharpening my blades. I thought it was brilliant how you repurposed them into scrapers and carpet tools when the teeth were toast. Great tips.
And this was a year ago / now its triple and the metals are soft
The reason wiggling the tool speeds the cut is it enables the tool to clear the sawdust, same should work with pulsing the tool in and out. I bought an oscillating multi-tool for a specific job, but as a hobbyist woodworker I don't find myself reaching for it very often, however a handyman friend of mine uses his all the time.
In summary, save yourself seven minutes twenty and buy new blades
I grind beveled edged and hooks into old blades and used them to cut hard plastic buckets and tire sidewalls.
Great idea 💡 👍 I always toss my blade, now I know I could reuse my blade thanks to you
This was a very interesting and informative video. I had a similar multi-tool and the blades do tend to become dull pretty fast and I am going to try to sharpen the teeth by using my Dremel tool.👍
I be used these multi tools for years and often
If you use light pressure and let the tool do the cutting the tool will cut faster and I can make the blade last for weeks depending on what I'm cutting and if the blade it getting hot your pushing to hard
I have been using a small triangular saw file for this. Works well. I will try a Dremel as well. I have had good results with a badly worn blade by grinding bit back to flat and re-cutting teeth.
I agree
You are supposed to joint a blade before you sharpen it. Jointing means running a flat file across the tips of the teeth. That trues them all up and leaves flats that you then remove to get an even tooth pitch.
@@1pcfred yes for conventional hand saws. The teeth on a multi tool blade are so small that topping or flat filing is not practical. You would have a tough time seeing the top of each tooth, let alone file them with the correct gullet shape and angle. My method works well for me on the multi tool but everyone can make their own choice.
@@gregarrell6132 yeah sharpening saws is a bit of a trick. I wear a magnifying visor when I do it. I use a strong light. I have a saw vise. I use double extra slim taper second cut files. There's no fleem on multitool blades. They're rip sharpened. So your "special angle" is 90° and horizontal too. High pitch saw plates are always rip cut. Once you go below 13 TPI fleem isn't going to do anything for you. So keep it simple.
Good point Paul. I also get a bit more life out of my recipro saw blades. They really over priced here in Australia. They also have teeth that are large enough to see and file. The down side is the hardened alloy is too hard to get much result with triangular saw files. Quality saw files are both scarce and expensive. I may consider a small diamond or silicon oxide v shaped grinding wheel. Any thought on that!
Time vs money. If you have new blades on hand perfect, but even us Eagle Scouts occassionally fall short on being prepared. This video does prepare me however to recover mid-project and continue if I dont want to make the trip to the store right away.
I was JUST thinking I would use my rotary tool to sharpen the blades. Working smarter not harder 👍🏻
Always enjoy watching anything you put out!
Thank you Loren, you are very kind
Yeh, before watching this vid, I figured it out myself, using a thin metal cutting disc on my hand held grinder with the blade held firmly in place in a vice.
I successfully cut some new grooves with excellent results.
They haven't gotta be perfect:
Like in all things, with practice it get's better.
Happy cutting...🙂
I like the idea - repair not replace
AWESOME!!!! I love this idea, blades can cost so much!!!!!
Wow,super duper cool,caring is sharing,i love helping people because it is so rewarding to see people smile and when i make someone else happy i am happy,it gives me motivation to help others when someone shares ideas or helps me.Thank you
When you create the new teeth, then you have to create that is called a path so you need to bend a little bit, each tooth in opposite direction to each others, you can also see that path in each new blade that has big or little teeth, so means put each tooth a little bit in opposite direction to the previous tooth.
Useful. as a means of a practical workaround and for extending life of blades which tend to be relatively expensive. I would advise caution where a rotating grinding method is used: too much heat will draw the temper of the blade, which as a result, would not cut well for very long after resharpening. I would also - using wood off-cuts - clamp the blade as close to the teeth as possible to minimise flexing when sharpening, especially when using a three cornered file. Query: most ‘sawtooth’ cutting tools have “set” which is effective for removing cuttings and helps to keep blade cool and prevent or minimise risks of creating burns in the wood. Not easy to tell if oscillating blades have a set as with a typical handsaw…….
You're correct on both points. The "set" of the teeth must at least provide a kerf as wide as the thickness of the blade, otherwise binding and smoking will happen. You can set the teeth opposing each other or all to one side skipping every other one. The latter would work similar to a Japanese saw that doesn't leave a scar on one side.
Legend, i think i get 1 use out of the Bunnings ones here in AUS lol. And a bout $15 a pop.
Loving this Channel =)
Just what I needed today thanks
I used the bench grinder to cut teeth into it by using the corner of the stone. The advantage is it's much faster to do and also I don't have to remove the blade from the tool. Not sure about the cutting time, but I did restore it's cutting ability.
I tried to cut the bottom off of a long cedar fence but because I couldn’t keep the tool level, the backside looked terrible.
It might be worth trying a miniature diamond file. It's probably no good for something where the teeth have been complete worn away, but the metal on those blades is hardened, and if the aim to to get a part-worn blade function better, then they are more like to hone the metal better than those relatively coarse metal toothed files. The diamond files also have a better defined profile for that very reason.
Thanks for the video, you picked up a new subscriber. The first sharpening technique with the file: Are the teeth set (similar to a handsaw), do you think the teeth need to be set?
Cool kind of saw.
God bless.
Great vid mate. May I ask Can the same sharpening techniques be used on jigsaw blades?
Thanks for the information, keep’m coming
I’m confused. They won’t tell us that we can reshaped to get it twice as dull? Huh. Guess they never assumed they’d need to.
Definitely good methods to pinch some more $ out of blades, but there's a number of days were swapping to another 50 cent blade from Amazon is cheaper than my time spent sharpening. Not a bad way to recover damaged blades if you find yourself really needing to save them or ran out on the job site, good tips n tricks and that's 👍
I got questions??
I saw the video on your channel
Obviously
Now I like the Dremel brand blades they are designed for multi material
Copper aluminum wood
Now they get dulledlike any other blades will
I will like to know if you have any input on the sharpening of these types of blades ther a bit more rugged compared to the blad s I saw you sharpen
Any input please
Thank you in advance
If you're on £20 ph is sharpening a £1 blade worth it ?
Dremel tool with a cutoff dish might work good too.
In my opinion, the best way to sharpen these multi-tool blades is to use a diamond rhombic saw file. I bought this file from TEMU specifically for my fine-tooth Japanese saws ($4 to $6). I also bought a whole bunch of multi-tool blades in bulk really cheap from TEMU too so it would be like sharpening disposable razers--not necessary just throw them away.
I have the best luck using the small Diamond tipped files, takes a few min to sharpen it, but it works.
Thanks for another great video.
Agreed 👍🏼
Thank you for the tip Peter
Yeah, with the proper file, it would would be worth the few minutes to sharpen a blade at least a couple of times, just to get the most out of one blade. The other methods modify the tooth count/pattern so much that you don't have the same blade anymore.
@@awlthatwoodcrafts8911 Best way would be to sharpen is the way you sharpen hand saws level the teeth then use a triangular file to fix the points and depth of the gullets.
only thing i was wondering, was if method #1 or #2 was faster or less annoying to do.
I don't have any oscillating cutters, but I do have several cutting wheels and a Dremel tool. So I know what I would use if I had an oscillating cutting tool. As always thank you for sharing and as Dave hacks would put it on another UA-cam channel "Pretty Cool Huh"!
You folks have a great blessed one stay safe and healthy.
Thank you Anthony.
That phrase reminds me of an old television show.
You forgot thr stacked 1mm thick metal slicing discs used on grinders seoerated by washers..about 10 1mm thick discs should suffice..yours sincerely from the old qeer corrupt UK 🇬🇧
the POG works just fine
Try the new tigers teeth bit and oscilator blade sharpener
You need to file the blade at an angle angle. Not talking about filing to a point but each tooth like a knife. It will be better than new.
Ive been buying my blades on Amazon 100 blades for $50.00. free shipping next day delivery. Dont think I will waste my time sharpening something that has a 50 cent value.
Great Idea!!
How is acrylic made?
Check out Leah's technique on See Jane Drill.
i do hardwood flooring, I cant imagine a hand sharpened blade doing well in some white oak
The perpendicular file and wheel cuts push burrs out the flat edges. You need to hone those burrs off with a flat stone. A sharp edge is 2 polished edges coming together, not edges with machining burrs.
Multi tools can be a wonder tool - something that you might not use all that often but when you have a need for them, nothing else will do. The real archilies-heel with them is the cost of the blades which is quite ridiculous. The cheaper ones on-line are next to useless. I really believe the right answer is to buy the best quality blades you can find and then look after them. Sharpening has its place but as you can see it's really a 'better than nothing' option.
if you combined one and two it would be even better
Regular hack saw works too for getting a sharp blade.
Dremel needs to be tilted @ 11 or 1 to create knife edges and held at opposing angles to create a vee between teeth. The big issue with vibrating saws is poor ejection and weak teeth.
I sharpened my blade to a chisel point to cut ceiling tiles, worked great..
Since the blade cuts side to side, they should be sharpened at an angle, not straight up & down.
Thx for trying all these. Now I know to just throw them away and buy big packs. Honestly helps me realize not to do this. Thx
🤣🤣
You should mention that this only works with bi-metal blades intended for cutting wood. Carbide tipped blades for cutting metal can't be sharpened like this.
A small piece of advice
Those blades you sharpen
Probably have an off set to those teeth
Along with a different pitch
That is one tooth will be sharpened like the off set on a hand saw and the other tooth similarly and then you will have the tooth displaced to the side a small amount.
Check it out to see if you can do that,
You might be surprised by the difference in cutting
apart from the hand filing, I do not understand how these methods are "sharpening" when using the grind wheels, as you are not putting any sort of bevel on the teeth to create an actual sharpened edge.
All you seem to be doing is making square faced gaps at the front of the blade.
Saw seejanedrill's video on this years ago. This was a good take on this though.
I bought a pack of 1/32 inch cut off wheels and took a bolt and put a bunch of the cut off wheels on with washer in between each wheel put it in my drill press and made all the teeth at once.
Because I am a freak. I have saved all my old blades. Gonna try this.
There are much finer and smaller triangular files then shown method one which work far better.
Best way is to just buy new blade sas they do not cost very much at all. 4th way ok as a scraper. Only thing is most grinding wheel say not to use side. Face use only.
If the blade gets too dull, I'd just blunt the edge and use it as a scapper blade.
I was today old when I learned that you can sharpen these.
If you angle the small cut-off (dremel) wheel, so that the teeth were at an angle - / - (instead of straight up-n-down)- I - it would remove the cut-wood more efficiently, and thus cut faster,.....
I have been told that grinding on the side of a friable grinding wheel 6:20 like that can cause that wheel to come apart. Is this a special grinding wheel?
5:36 I do this to sawsall blades to cut through plaster walls, cement board, hardi backer board etc. I'm sure that blade would work well on those same materials.
They sell a tool for sharpening the blades. It goes into a drill.
I recommend get blades form Amazon you can get 50 for 30 bucks and the a decent quality
That can work great too if you can wait a couple days, but if you're in a pinch, these techniques can help.
This is one of those times I would rather stock up on blades from Harbor Freight. For the infrequent times I use my Oscillating tool, I buy the better quality blades.
which Oscillating Multi-Tool is the best? I see you are using a rigid battery Oscillating Multi-Tool.
I've never tested which tool brand is better. I have the Ridgid brand because I like the lifetime warranty.
These blades don’t seem to be heat treated like a hack saw blade. A hack saw can cut a piece of angle iron and still be sharp. These blades a few cuts in wood and they get dull. I’ve few that the teeth are gone all together just from cutting wood.
I like it
Agreed. If you have time it’s good for a cost savings reusing what you already have. 👍🏼
Only if needed, otherwise the blades are cheap compared to the work I get done with the O saw.
I use the Oscillating tool A Lot! I Hate the Price of The Blades! They have to be the biggest price gouge since Shaving Razors. That said,I ve tried the cheap Harbor Freight Blades.As expected they are junk .Actually much worse than I Anticipated! So ,I buy the (Name Brand Ones) and some of them not so great either! I have been pleasantly surprised by the De Walt blades for extra long line life hardened ones!They're not cheap but are about the same as other brand names or even less! I just cut laminate counter tops in half and hardwood cabinet faces in two ,also inch thick shelving ,hemlock I think . Got it all done with one blade .I then cut thru hardened old subfloor .Best blades so far.
Wish he had tried a diamond blade on a tile saw.
I pay 45$-50$ for 50 blades. Sharpening is not worth my time but I do have a pile of old blades that I use as scrapers.
The only problem I see is that with all your methods with the exception of maybe your filing is that you take all the set out of the blade.
Have you never looking at a saw ,every second theeth are bent up and down..
Don't make the blade thinner, keep it full thickness and shape new grooves with a Dremel or a jewelers file.
It shouldn't smoke while cutting, let the tool do the work.
any one that had parents that grew up during the Depression , sharpened these without thinking any thing of it
time is money think il just buy them