Check out the sharpener here- tigersteethblades.com/thefixer This is an affiliate link, which means that at no extra cost to you, I will earn a commission if you buy something. NO PRESSURE AT ALL! 😁 Subscribe to my channel: bit.ly/SubscribeToTheFixer Thanks for watching! 😃
top tip when using hole saws in wood, start the cut with the hole saw just to mark a circle in the wood, then drill a 10m hole on the inside edge of the circle mark you made, just one 10mm hole will do, then use the hole saw to cut through, your hole saws and drills themselves will last a whole lot longer and no burning because it lets the dust out through the 10mm hole instead of clogging the teeth. this is even more important when drilling though say 2 or 3 18mm sheets of mdf or chipboard like in some counter tops when installing data cable covers. Thank me later ;)
So glad I stumbled across this I was going to get a sharp hog from the video you did and then I saw this one I'm going to have to wait 6 weeks but I'm definitely getting one
I use a tile cutting machine to sharpen circular saw blades. I position the blade with a tooth in the right position to sharpen then mark the centre on the cutter bed. I then drill a hole through the bed and bolt on a suitable blade bore adapter . To sharpen a blade I turn it against the tile cutting blade until sharp then lift the saw blade and move on to the next tooth. This has worked well for me so far AND you can still use the tile cutter !
From a practical standpoint, using a simple diamond file to touch-up/sharpen teeth tends to be just as good, slightly slower but also removes less material so makes the blades last longer, a magnifying lamp is a help and using a sharpie to color the surface being sharpened makes it a lot easier. A set of cheap diamond files comes with a few different shapes(triangle/square/knife being the useful in addition to the flat) that also makes sharpening of some things even easier. I use them on pretty much all cutters including hss drills, carbide router-bits and carbide/hss metal-lathe tools and inserts.....
Dimond files work great for touch ups, I do that as well. I never use them for heavy repairs though. But I am spoiled in that I have all the grinding tools to make new tools from blanks in carbide and HSS, and even some tools most folks will never have the need to touch like drawing blanks 😅.
At more than $100 this is heading into the direction of rip-off. For "real" grinding these grinding wheels are jut too chappy in tolerance, and the grit is extremely rough. It is fast, but the finish is nasty. And as he always says "it is sharper" it sounds like "OK, I feel the difference but honestly, it is still junk" In the end it is a packaged dremel with coarce attachments and a rest for the tools. Not worth it, in my opinion as most of the time the angle has to be freehanded which tends to give poor results, especially on a blade with more than 2 teeth. This easyly produces asymmetries and thereby crooked sawcuts afterwards. Nice bought video BTW.
@@jeromedumalin9954The grinding wheels are precision CNC turned and set in ABEC3 bearings. The reason the material removal is so quick is because the grinding wheel is spinning at 9,000rpm and the 150 grit CBN is a super abrasive that works efficiently. About asymmetry, oscillating saws don't cut straight by their very nature. It's very easy to compensate for any off angle from grinding new teeth, much like a person would with popular arc or radius blades.
Nice Review Matt! I really think it is better than the sharp pog. I dont go through enough blade in a year to justify the purchase of this cool little gadget but if i would, it would be nice to have!
Thanks for the feedback! I totally get this might not pay for itself for some people, I think it will save me a ton. Thanks for watching! And for being a member. I really appreciate the support! 😀👍
Looks pretty good. Takes a bit of skill and practice to refine ones technique for all the different blades, fairly versatile. For drill bits, it's tough to beat the "Drill Doctor". No guessing or estimating angles. Gets it right every time with very little effort. I've had the same one ( model 500 ) for over ten years and have sharpened hundreds of bits with the same diamond "stone" it came with.
I think that you will get more consistent results on the blades that require two different angles of approach if you do every other blade at the same angle and then shift the angle one time and grind the ones that require the second angle. Switching the angle between every tooth will likely lead to a lot more variance in the accuracy and consistency of the process and you may actually save a bit of time in the sharpening as well.
11:39 -- Interesting tool, but I wonder how long before the plastic housing is wallowed out where the bearings sit. The bearing doesn't sit tightly enough in the housing and it is spinning in the housing.
Oh wow good eye. I had the same concern. I’d prefer if it was made of metal. Although I can probably just buy a diamond wheel for my bench grinder and save $200
This is a great idea. I wish it had been around when I was doing handyman type work. I bought my first oscillating saw just after the Fein patent expired. I liked the tool a lot but I only used it when there was nothing else that would work. The blades were ridiculously expensive and they didn't last long. Spring forward about 20 years. The blades cost less and there are longer lasting options. Sill, the nature of the tool is that it only functions great with newly sharp blades and it isn't fun to keep buying newly sharp blades. I looked up the tool. It costs about $200 and that includes one battery adapter. The only negative surprise for me was that from the web site it seems like you need to choose either the CBN version or the diamond version and it seemed like if you want both options you need to buy two tools.
It is true that the diamond and CBN versions are two different tools for two different materials. It would be nice if there was an effective single electroplating abrasive that could work as well for both materials. I haven't found anything yet that will do it.
Carbide blades last so long that they are pretty cost effective. They just don't make them for general fast wood cutting. So I suspect one would need the steel first and see where it goes from there. I'm not old the blades will be sharp enough to make it worth it. An expensive gamble.@@tigersteethblades
Great video, and good to know about this sharpener. Just in case you didn't know. The blade with the ears are designed for access in to tight areas and other cuts. You can find detail about them here on YT. Cheers
What would be useful is jigs that set the depth of the cut plus the teeth per inch. Also a "slide" so that smoothing the old teeth off will get a truer flat reference face
The comment U Mr are about the Alternating blade direction on saws all blades also, applies to Rotary blades; I have an 84 tooth Diablo Blade whereupon each tooth alternates angle.
@@jeromedumalin9954 clickbait is when you don’t deliver on what the title/thumbnail implies the video is about. Pretty sure I showed “how to sharpen oscillating blades with the tigers teeth blade sharpener”. Thanks for the comment though. 😁👍
The sawzall blade you start to sharpen at 19:08 is not just plain steel, that's also a carbide blade. If you look on the teeth you can see that there are a bit soldered on at the cutting side of them. Carbide is also not just added carbon but it's commonly refered to as tungsten carbide which is not just carbon added since adding carbon to iron is just what steel is.
This is really nice, but I'm have tried to resharpen a few of my blades on a really cheap drill attachment (sharp pog). If i just touch it up it works fine, but if i need major work or when i get to the 3rd or 4th sharpening , its just not working well. Is there a set for the teeth if you grind down far enough? I might just try a blade or two that are not working and see if i can figure out a set for the teeth.
If you want to add a set to the teeth, the best way I have found is using set pliers. They do take a little practice, but it's quick once a guy gets a feel for it.
When sharpening the drill bit. I notice you only sharpen the tip. What about the length of the drill bit? Do the sharp edges running along the drill bit have a way to be sharpened or need to be sharpened?
Carbide does mean mixed with carbon but in a tool tip the metal carbon is mixed with is tungsten, not steel. So the full name for that stuff is, tungsten carbide. Which is one of the hardest materials known to Man. It's also a brittle ceramic too. Which is why you're not going to get long thin flexible blades made out of the stuff. The tungsten carbide is blended with various other metals to give it different properties. Usually nickel or cobalt. That gives it some toughness. The manufacturing process is difficult so the material is expensive. A whole blade made out of tungsten carbide would cost quite a bit. You'd probably break it pretty quickly too. So I doubt if you'll ever see it on the market. They have their reasons why they just braze a thin piece on steel.
Usually when you use a Diablo blade a lot the white and red stuff on blade comes off yours didn’t even look used and if it was how’d you keep it from coming off.
Great video. I'd love to see how the new Freud/Diable blades perform relative to the (stupid expensive) Milwaukee blades. Both recip and osc. Thanks for taking the time to put this out. It's really valuable.
I'd prob buy this for rough cut blades like recip and osc, but I'm gonna pay 12 bucks to make sure my fine finish blades have the right alternating side and top bevels by a professional sharpener. Gotta respect expertise.
This sharpener is great and I will have to do some research on possibly buying one because it could save me a lot of money in buying new blades in the future!
I began filing my cheap blades, great tool. It appeared in the video that the bearing was spinning in the housing.. I did see the writing on the bearing.
It could do with a variable block on the right, which increments at fixed fractions of the disk gap. Such as 1/2 1/3 and 2/3 perhaps a 1/4 and 3/4, just so that the tooth gap can set without eyeballing it. Nice invention.
One thing I am disappinted about and is the reason I have not bought yet and won't, if you buy the device with the long steel wheel, you cannot change it out for the long carbide wheel. You can swap out the individual wheels for steel or carbide though. So I would have to buy a 2nd device for carbide. How long do the individual wheels last generally speaking? Kinda of trying to find out how many 10" carbide circular saw blades could I sharpen before having to replace the individual carbide wheel?
Looks like a potentially handy tool I'll keep it in mind, for sure it should have a hold down worked into the base. Don't think you want to do too much chopping of wood with that 100 tooth Diablo, they are more for laminates & plastics.
I noticed that too and it's actually unusual for that to happen. The fit on the bearing recess must be slightly oversized. I designed the sharpener so that every part is replaceable. So it's a pretty easy fix if he wanted to.
It looks like you can angle the blade guard to match the angle of the teeth you're trying to sharpen? You'd just have to sharpen every other tooth, then flip the blade over to sharpen the others.
Have you tried to create a line of teeth on a knife (working knife)?
11 місяців тому+1
It's nice to sharpen and reuse dull blades but for more control for sharpening it needs a holder for better control. Ill wait for improvement before considering. It's still a good idea though.
A small see - saw ( it's what we call them in the UK ) type attachment on the front, for the side grinder would be good for the blades that need angles. It would be very precise. I can't say for sure, but I think that the multi tool blades would only have carbon steel on the end where the teeth are, and once you start grinding the teeth down the shaft, you would soon get to soft mild steel, which would get blunt much quicker than usual, but that's just my opinion.
What is the enclosure body made of? Looks like it might be a resin 3D print. Is it strong enough to resist clamping forces? If so, a quick way to keep it from walking around is to clamp it into a bench vise.
It is 3D resin printed with an ABS like polymer. I wouldn't clamp it, but instead make an L shaped stop to keep it from wondering. I have one in the works.
I used 1 cutting disc and simply cut several off angled cuts, then reversed the Muktitool blade & cut the opposite side of the 1st cuts, creating angled teeth. It wasn't great. How do I get it right to cut nice and fast. My attempts took time to get to depth of the floor I was cutting. As I offered up my blade to the floor, I entered at a angle. Which limited the surface area cutting. Only starting to cut by offering up the very edge/ point of the Multitool blade, helped it cut deeper and faster. But still very slow. I'm sick of using it. What after cutting the teeth, I create a bevel edge on each tooth . Creating a saw blade sorta tooth. Or what about offsetting each tooth, similar to a wood saw. Please help😮😢😂
Steel blades are made of spring steel with the same hardness all the way though. The exception is bi-metal (high speed steel strip) and tungsten carbide strips. You can only sharpen those a limited number of times.
For how seldom the home owner probably used his tool, its cheaper just purchasing blades. I suppose if I were a handman doing repairs all the time, I could see having a sharpener. I think I have only replaced my skill saw blade 3 times in my lifetime. My table saw still has the original blade, 30 years later.
For something like oscillating or reciprocating blades where they are a pretty rough cut to start with, this would be great-- save from buying new blades. I feel this device needs a jig to hold the blades square, or in some cases at the proper angle. For the 100 tooth chopsaw blade, i felt like you had to freehand that too much.
It looks like a 3D printed resin enclosure so might need some ironing out especially since it looks like the designer didn't have a great grasp on CAD design. I'm not sure resin is the best choice either. An engineering FDM material like polycarbonate would probably be better if going the 3D printed route.
I know you are demonstrating sharpening oscillating blades, but can you show sharpening of hole saw blades with this machine? I had to cut 384 - 3" holes in plaster when I blew in insulation. I could only cut 6 holes before the blade was dull. I set a circulating saw up in a jig with a diamond wheel and cut all of the teeth with the proper backset. I had to sharpen the blade 64 times, dipping it in water after every 5 or 6 teeth to keep it cool. It started off 3 1/2" tall and ended up 1 1/4" tall.
Hey! I do show how to sharpen hole saws about 3/4 of the way through the video. You don’t have to worry about any heat building up with this machine as long as you don’t go crazy with it. Hope this helps!
My uncle sharpened his hole saw blades with a round metal file. Sort of like what is used for sharpening chain saw teeth. He had a bunch of different sizes and shapes of files in the bottom of one of his tool boxes. He was fast at it too! I prefer power tools, LOL.
When doing the saw blades with a set (reciprocating and circular) it would be worth setting up a rest so you cut all the teeth angled in one direction and then do the other set. That way you're more likely to cut them all at exactly the right angle. I'd use a Sharpie to mark each tooth to make sure I missed alternate ones.
Interestingly, the CBN grinding wheel works very efficiently and only momentary gets the blade to about 200 degrees F. There's not enough heat or time to change the effectiveness of the teeth.
I think after you grind all the teeth , heat the tips for few times and insert in the oil so the metal is getting hardened , then you shape the teeth .
Interestingly, I've experimented with using a blade with no teeth to get it super hot and then putting new teeth on it compared to a used blade that never got that hot and put new teeth on it. It didn't make much difference. Spring steel seems to be pretty durable thermally.
Anything that reduces waste is a good thing, the circular saw blades can be sent away to be resharpened, the reciprocating blades might need their teeth setting before sharpening.
We have a new carbide blade coming out that will have an extra amount of carbide on it. One has a 3/16" and another has a 1/4" deep strip compared to most having about a 1/16" of carbide.
Cbn and diamond can sharpen both very well. CBN (Carbon Boron Nitride) are both suitable to sharpen carbide with. I have found there are better Brands than others. And Big Brand Names isnt necessarily better than others. I have found ebay Chinese CBN to be decent quality and beyond dirt cheap...
Carbide is too expensive to make whole blades and they'd be too thick, too stiff and too brittle. There's a second angle to a drill bit that relives the cutting edge so it helps to roll the bit in two dimensions as you touch the face of the bit. Adjusting these two angles can make the bit work better in different materials adding to the functionality of this sharpener. A grinding wheel is usually too coarse. Thanks for the well done video.
I would invest in one of these if I used my multi tool more often. When you think about it, each carpenter goes through at least one type of blade a day and all of them end up in a skip bin. That's thousands of tonnes of high quality tool steel dumped every day, thousands of tonnes more ripped out of the ground and shipped to China to make a million more of these just to be thrown out after an 8-10 hour day. I stopped using mine because of how wasteful the tool was on even the nicer blades but this might be a help. Heck, it qould be a huge help. I'd be the gy going to every house to sharpen other people's stuff. I hope they make a steel or cast iron table for it because that plastc does get scratched up quite easily.
watched you doing the product. realized there are few problems and not see it addressed. a. tooth set. b. some blade tooth cut are not "equilateral" triangle cut. and I do not see wheel engineered for isosceles (sp) triangle cutting. c. I understand you are sharpening manually. teeth edge has to be equal to be efficient. JIG is going to be mandatory with that sharpening tool.
been thinking on the isosceles triangle cut... realizing might not need to have a isosceles wheel. pair of straight wheel and cutting the angle off on side on side grind wheel well would be nice if set of wheel exist for isosceles.
Check out the sharpener here- tigersteethblades.com/thefixer
This is an affiliate link, which means that at no extra cost to you, I will earn a commission if you buy something. NO PRESSURE AT ALL! 😁
Subscribe to my channel: bit.ly/SubscribeToTheFixer
Thanks for watching! 😃
top tip when using hole saws in wood, start the cut with the hole saw just to mark a circle in the wood, then drill a 10m hole on the inside edge of the circle mark you made, just one 10mm hole will do, then use the hole saw to cut through, your hole saws and drills themselves will last a whole lot longer and no burning because it lets the dust out through the 10mm hole instead of clogging the teeth. this is even more important when drilling though say 2 or 3 18mm sheets of mdf or chipboard like in some counter tops when installing data cable covers. Thank me later ;)
Thanks, good tip.
So nice to know that these blades can sharped and reused 😊
Sharpen with tiny file. One tooth at a time!
So glad I stumbled across this I was going to get a sharp hog from the video you did and then I saw this one I'm going to have to wait 6 weeks but I'm definitely getting one
I did pick up mine today at the post office, can’t wait to try it out
love how much content you are sharing all the time. CHEERS!
And I love that you are watching all the time! Thanks for that!
I use a tile cutting machine to sharpen circular saw blades. I position the blade with a tooth in the right position to sharpen then mark the centre on the cutter bed.
I then drill a hole through the bed and bolt on a suitable blade bore adapter .
To sharpen a blade I turn it against the tile cutting blade until sharp then lift the saw blade and move on to the next tooth.
This has worked well for me so far AND you can still use the tile cutter !
You put the work in on this one... Great video and loved that you showed each blade being sharpened. Great tool to have.
I just got mine in the mail the other day and started with my oscillating saw blade. Looks good so far. Thanks for the tutorial and commentary
From a practical standpoint, using a simple diamond file to touch-up/sharpen teeth tends to be just as good, slightly slower but also removes less material so makes the blades last longer, a magnifying lamp is a help and using a sharpie to color the surface being sharpened makes it a lot easier.
A set of cheap diamond files comes with a few different shapes(triangle/square/knife being the useful in addition to the flat) that also makes sharpening of some things even easier.
I use them on pretty much all cutters including hss drills, carbide router-bits and carbide/hss metal-lathe tools and inserts.....
True, all the way around.
Dimond files work great for touch ups, I do that as well.
I never use them for heavy repairs though.
But I am spoiled in that I have all the grinding tools to make new tools from blanks in carbide and HSS, and even some tools most folks will never have the need to touch like drawing blanks 😅.
The other thing is, you can get a set of diamond files cheap from China and save yourself about $190
At more than $100 this is heading into the direction of rip-off. For "real" grinding these grinding wheels are jut too chappy in tolerance, and the grit is extremely rough. It is fast, but the finish is nasty. And as he always says "it is sharper" it sounds like "OK, I feel the difference but honestly, it is still junk"
In the end it is a packaged dremel with coarce attachments and a rest for the tools. Not worth it, in my opinion as most of the time the angle has to be freehanded which tends to give poor results, especially on a blade with more than 2 teeth. This easyly produces asymmetries and thereby crooked sawcuts afterwards. Nice bought video BTW.
@@jeromedumalin9954The grinding wheels are precision CNC turned and set in ABEC3 bearings. The reason the material removal is so quick is because the grinding wheel is spinning at 9,000rpm and the 150 grit CBN is a super abrasive that works efficiently. About asymmetry, oscillating saws don't cut straight by their very nature. It's very easy to compensate for any off angle from grinding new teeth, much like a person would with popular arc or radius blades.
you made using this sharpener easy appreciate that thanks dude😊
That sharpener is handier than a pocket on a shirt! 😂 Love all your videos, very informative.
HAH! Nothing is handier than shirt pockets!
A shirt without a pocket is simply a rag. So that is a stretch.
Nice Review Matt! I really think it is better than the sharp pog. I dont go through enough blade in a year to justify the purchase of this cool little gadget but if i would, it would be nice to have!
Thanks for the feedback! I totally get this might not pay for itself for some people, I think it will save me a ton. Thanks for watching! And for being a member. I really appreciate the support! 😀👍
You always need some more tools, it's the monetary fund and wifey who hinders that.....
Looks pretty good. Takes a bit of skill and practice to refine ones technique for all the different blades, fairly versatile.
For drill bits, it's tough to beat the "Drill Doctor". No guessing or estimating angles. Gets it right every time with very little effort. I've had the same one ( model 500 ) for over ten years and have sharpened hundreds of bits with the same diamond "stone" it came with.
Phenomenal review. Your videographer is great! I'm going to try this with a Dremel tool. New subscriber. Thanks!
I think that you will get more consistent results on the blades that require two different angles of approach if you do every other blade at the same angle and then shift the angle one time and grind the ones that require the second angle. Switching the angle between every tooth will likely lead to a lot more variance in the accuracy and consistency of the process and you may actually save a bit of time in the sharpening as well.
Your videos are always so informative. Thanks a ton!
11:39 -- Interesting tool, but I wonder how long before the plastic housing is wallowed out where the bearings sit. The bearing doesn't sit tightly enough in the housing and it is spinning in the housing.
Oh wow good eye. I had the same concern. I’d prefer if it was made of metal. Although I can probably just buy a diamond wheel for my bench grinder and save $200
Wow! What a great tutorial and review! 👍🏼
This is a great idea. I wish it had been around when I was doing handyman type work. I bought my first oscillating saw just after the Fein patent expired. I liked the tool a lot but I only used it when there was nothing else that would work. The blades were ridiculously expensive and they didn't last long. Spring forward about 20 years. The blades cost less and there are longer lasting options. Sill, the nature of the tool is that it only functions great with newly sharp blades and it isn't fun to keep buying newly sharp blades.
I looked up the tool. It costs about $200 and that includes one battery adapter. The only negative surprise for me was that from the web site it seems like you need to choose either the CBN version or the diamond version and it seemed like if you want both options you need to buy two tools.
It is true that the diamond and CBN versions are two different tools for two different materials. It would be nice if there was an effective single electroplating abrasive that could work as well for both materials. I haven't found anything yet that will do it.
Carbide blades last so long that they are pretty cost effective. They just don't make them for general fast wood cutting. So I suspect one would need the steel first and see where it goes from there. I'm not old the blades will be sharp enough to make it worth it. An expensive gamble.@@tigersteethblades
I use my Makita grinder with a diamond 4” blade…Works great!
How??
Great product. At the price they want in UK plus shipping and side blade’s extra. I will carry on doing it by hand thanks.
Shipping can be a bit expensive. If you sign up for our email updates, you'll be notified when a less expensive version is available.
Diamond works on everything my friend steel included.😊
Great video. Thank you. By the way. You have an antique on the shelf. A collectors item 😅. Haven't seen a TV like that in a long time.
That’s one of my most prized possessions! It’s a zenith. Had it basically my whole life. 😁
Great machine! Thanks for sharing!
Watching your vidio motivated me to clean my vents that are good idea to stay on top of
Great video, and good to know about this sharpener.
Just in case you didn't know. The blade with the ears are designed for access in to tight areas and other cuts. You can find detail about them here on YT. Cheers
What would be useful is jigs that set the depth of the cut plus the teeth per inch. Also a "slide" so that smoothing the old teeth off will get a truer flat reference face
Looks more like a prototype than a finished article.
The comment U Mr are about the Alternating blade direction on saws all blades also, applies to Rotary blades; I have an 84 tooth Diablo Blade whereupon each tooth alternates angle.
It's like watching a commercial that you can turn off and block the uploader. Lovin' it!
Why did you click on it then?
Clickbait, stupid question.
@@jeromedumalin9954 clickbait is when you don’t deliver on what the title/thumbnail implies the video is about. Pretty sure I showed “how to sharpen oscillating blades with the tigers teeth blade sharpener”. Thanks for the comment though. 😁👍
lol
The sawzall blade you start to sharpen at 19:08 is not just plain steel, that's also a carbide blade. If you look on the teeth you can see that there are a bit soldered on at the cutting side of them. Carbide is also not just added carbon but it's commonly refered to as tungsten carbide which is not just carbon added since adding carbon to iron is just what steel is.
It is not a carbide tipped blade anymore. :)
@@TheSzalkowski that might be true. Or he just made the lifespan of the cutting discs much shorter.
FYI use an approved particulate mask when grinding especially carbide. As carbide dust imbeds in your lungs.
Awesome lesson… Thank you!
Nice tool 👍
This is really nice, but I'm have tried to resharpen a few of my blades on a really cheap drill attachment (sharp pog). If i just touch it up it works fine, but if i need major work or when i get to the 3rd or 4th sharpening , its just not working well. Is there a set for the teeth if you grind down far enough? I might just try a blade or two that are not working and see if i can figure out a set for the teeth.
If you want to add a set to the teeth, the best way I have found is using set pliers. They do take a little practice, but it's quick once a guy gets a feel for it.
Nice, I've already got ideas about building a sliding carriage jig for the circular blades.
Not a bad idea. Especially considering multi-tool blades are some of the most expensive expendables in the big box stores.
Great video very well explained I did buy one I haven't tried it yet
Cool! Come back and let us know what you think after you test it out!
They are pretty expensive. Was going to get one but can’t spend that much on hobby stuff I do. Thanks for showing me and maybe later I can get one
When sharpening the drill bit. I notice you only sharpen the tip. What about the length of the drill bit? Do the sharp edges running along the drill bit have a way to be sharpened or need to be sharpened?
Carbide does mean mixed with carbon but in a tool tip the metal carbon is mixed with is tungsten, not steel. So the full name for that stuff is, tungsten carbide. Which is one of the hardest materials known to Man. It's also a brittle ceramic too. Which is why you're not going to get long thin flexible blades made out of the stuff. The tungsten carbide is blended with various other metals to give it different properties. Usually nickel or cobalt. That gives it some toughness. The manufacturing process is difficult so the material is expensive. A whole blade made out of tungsten carbide would cost quite a bit. You'd probably break it pretty quickly too. So I doubt if you'll ever see it on the market. They have their reasons why they just braze a thin piece on steel.
Thanks for the info!
Nice unit. Also could be used for tungsten grinder for TIG Welding. Add that to the list.
I've thought about that too. A jig would be pretty simple as an add-on.
Would it be a good idea to heat harden the material after making the new teeth?
I don’t think so but it’s up to you. Just gonna wear it down and put new teeth on again.
How do you put a bevel on each tooth for Oscillating blades?
Thanks for another great video keep them coming and where’s the Dog lol 😅
I like it, wonder if harbor freight will sell one of these. Or do they make too much money on new blades?
Excellent.. I am from India.. Can this be shipped if ordered
Where to by your machine thank you andre
Usually when you use a Diablo blade a lot the white and red stuff on blade comes off yours didn’t even look used and if it was how’d you keep it from coming off.
Great video. I'd love to see how the new Freud/Diable blades perform relative to the (stupid expensive) Milwaukee blades. Both recip and osc. Thanks for taking the time to put this out. It's really valuable.
I'd prob buy this for rough cut blades like recip and osc, but I'm gonna pay 12 bucks to make sure my fine finish blades have the right alternating side and top bevels by a professional sharpener. Gotta respect expertise.
This sharpener is great and I will have to do some research on possibly buying one because it could save me a lot of money in buying new blades in the future!
I began filing my cheap blades, great tool. It appeared in the video that the bearing was spinning in the housing.. I did see the writing on the bearing.
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice machine
Thanks!!
It could do with a variable block on the right, which increments at fixed fractions of the disk gap. Such as 1/2 1/3 and 2/3 perhaps a 1/4 and 3/4, just so that the tooth gap can set without eyeballing it. Nice invention.
Good job. Thank you 😊
One thing I am disappinted about and is the reason I have not bought yet and won't, if you buy the device with the long steel wheel, you cannot change it out for the long carbide wheel. You can swap out the individual wheels for steel or carbide though. So I would have to buy a 2nd device for carbide. How long do the individual wheels last generally speaking? Kinda of trying to find out how many 10" carbide circular saw blades could I sharpen before having to replace the individual carbide wheel?
0:30 Do you have something for an electric hair cutter?
I wonder if it exsit? I'm pretty sure it does, but cannot find any.
If you're making pallets....this is the tool you need. Otherwise, find a great sharpening service and get to know them on a first name basis.
Looks like a potentially handy tool I'll keep it in mind, for sure it should have a hold down worked into the base. Don't think you want to do too much chopping of wood with that 100 tooth Diablo, they are more for laminates & plastics.
it would be nice if there was a jig for the oscillating blades to have it preset for common TPI
That idea is in the works!
JB Weld, a nut and a bolt..... easy peazy
Great review and definitely a cool tool! Any idea about the motor it uses?
As the inventor, I can tell you that it uses a custom wound DC 10,000rpm @ 12v to 20,000rpm @ 24v motor.
The whole bearing at the end between the two wheels turns slowly as the machine is running. not sure if this would cause issues in the long term.
It likely will. It's a resin 3d printed case so not exactly the best material for mechanical wear...
I noticed that too and it's actually unusual for that to happen. The fit on the bearing recess must be slightly oversized. I designed the sharpener so that every part is replaceable. So it's a pretty easy fix if he wanted to.
Like your cool tools 😮
It looks like you can angle the blade guard to match the angle of the teeth you're trying to sharpen?
You'd just have to sharpen every other tooth, then flip the blade over to sharpen the others.
Have you tried to create a line of teeth on a knife (working knife)?
It's nice to sharpen and reuse dull blades but for more control for sharpening it needs a holder for better control.
Ill wait for improvement before considering.
It's still a good idea though.
A small see - saw ( it's what we call them in the UK ) type attachment on the front, for the side grinder would be good for the blades that need angles. It would be very precise. I can't say for sure, but I think that the multi tool blades would only have carbon steel on the end where the teeth are, and once you start grinding the teeth down the shaft, you would soon get to soft mild steel, which would get blunt much quicker than usual, but that's just my opinion.
Seems really nice for the big tooth blades but not for the fine tooth ones but can save a man some money
1:01 Sounds super .
Using a XY table for precision depth and spacing would be cool
What is the enclosure body made of? Looks like it might be a resin 3D print. Is it strong enough to resist clamping forces? If so, a quick way to keep it from walking around is to clamp it into a bench vise.
It is 3D resin printed with an ABS like polymer. I wouldn't clamp it, but instead make an L shaped stop to keep it from wondering. I have one in the works.
I used 1 cutting disc and simply cut several off angled cuts, then reversed the Muktitool blade & cut the opposite side of the 1st cuts, creating angled teeth.
It wasn't great.
How do I get it right to cut nice and fast.
My attempts took time to get to depth of the floor I was cutting.
As I offered up my blade to the floor, I entered at a angle.
Which limited the surface area cutting.
Only starting to cut by offering up the very edge/ point of the Multitool blade, helped it cut deeper and faster.
But still very slow.
I'm sick of using it.
What after cutting the teeth, I create a bevel edge on each tooth .
Creating a saw blade sorta tooth.
Or what about offsetting each tooth, similar to a wood saw.
Please help😮😢😂
You could just build a jig that you can screw down to your bench to hold the sharpener in place...
It's called a VICE !
If you cut at a slight angle you get a sharper front edge and cut more easily into wood
So what voltage does it actually run on??
He is using 18V battery
Typically 18v to 24v.
Love the old tv
That’s my zenith! Still works, I play NES on it. 😁
What's the discount code?
Isnt the metal only hardened at the tip, lie throw away saws??
Steel blades are made of spring steel with the same hardness all the way though. The exception is bi-metal (high speed steel strip) and tungsten carbide strips. You can only sharpen those a limited number of times.
I would flip the the blade over for the off set teeth so u can have different angle on tooth
Game Changer no more going back and forth to home depot
For how seldom the home owner probably used his tool, its cheaper just purchasing blades. I suppose if I were a handman doing repairs all the time, I could see having a sharpener. I think I have only replaced my skill saw blade 3 times in my lifetime. My table saw still has the original blade, 30 years later.
For something like oscillating or reciprocating blades where they are a pretty rough cut to start with, this would be great-- save from buying new blades. I feel this device needs a jig to hold the blades square, or in some cases at the proper angle.
For the 100 tooth chopsaw blade, i felt like you had to freehand that too much.
$200 good price like the product
do i see the race of the bearing on the outer most grinding wheel spinning? If so, that ain't gonna last
It looks like a 3D printed resin enclosure so might need some ironing out especially since it looks like the designer didn't have a great grasp on CAD design. I'm not sure resin is the best choice either. An engineering FDM material like polycarbonate would probably be better if going the 3D printed route.
That is odd and doesn't normally happen. It's a simple fix to replace the side panel.
I know you are demonstrating sharpening oscillating blades, but can you show sharpening of hole saw blades with this machine?
I had to cut 384 - 3" holes in plaster when I blew in insulation. I could only cut 6 holes before the blade was dull. I set a circulating saw up in a jig with a diamond wheel and cut all of the teeth with the proper backset. I had to sharpen the blade 64 times, dipping it in water after every 5 or 6 teeth to keep it cool. It started off 3 1/2" tall and ended up 1 1/4" tall.
Hey! I do show how to sharpen hole saws about 3/4 of the way through the video. You don’t have to worry about any heat building up with this machine as long as you don’t go crazy with it. Hope this helps!
@@TheFixerHomeRepair Thanks, I jumped the gun and posted when I was only at the 18 minute mark.
My uncle sharpened his hole saw blades with a round metal file. Sort of like what is used for sharpening chain saw teeth. He had a bunch of different sizes and shapes of files in the bottom of one of his tool boxes. He was fast at it too! I prefer power tools, LOL.
When doing the saw blades with a set (reciprocating and circular) it would be worth setting up a rest so you cut all the teeth angled in one direction and then do the other set. That way you're more likely to cut them all at exactly the right angle. I'd use a Sharpie to mark each tooth to make sure I missed alternate ones.
I would think the main issue is the new teeth will not be in the hardened area of the blade. The hardened area is fairly shallow.
Interestingly, the CBN grinding wheel works very efficiently and only momentary gets the blade to about 200 degrees F. There's not enough heat or time to change the effectiveness of the teeth.
I think after you grind all the teeth , heat the tips for few times and insert in the oil so the metal is getting hardened , then you shape the teeth .
Interestingly, I've experimented with using a blade with no teeth to get it super hot and then putting new teeth on it compared to a used blade that never got that hot and put new teeth on it. It didn't make much difference. Spring steel seems to be pretty durable thermally.
sure i will w8 for aliexpress version and check it out.
The Fixer 👍
Anything that reduces waste is a good thing, the circular saw blades can be sent away to be resharpened, the reciprocating blades might need their teeth setting before sharpening.
The reason for carbide tips is one the expense and second if you drop or hit the carbide on something solid carbide breaks off
We have a new carbide blade coming out that will have an extra amount of carbide on it. One has a 3/16" and another has a 1/4" deep strip compared to most having about a 1/16" of carbide.
Cbn and diamond can sharpen both very well.
CBN (Carbon Boron Nitride) are both suitable to sharpen carbide with.
I have found there are better Brands than others. And Big Brand Names isnt necessarily better than others.
I have found ebay Chinese CBN to be decent quality and beyond dirt cheap...
For $199.00 for a steel sharpener and $199.00 for a carbide sharpener is a bit expensive. But well worth it if you a lot of blades.
Decent job. Looks like it's resin printed plastic parts.
Carbide is too expensive to make whole blades and they'd be too thick, too stiff and too brittle. There's a second angle to a drill bit that relives the cutting edge so it helps to roll the bit in two dimensions as you touch the face of the bit. Adjusting these two angles can make the bit work better in different materials adding to the functionality of this sharpener. A grinding wheel is usually too coarse. Thanks for the well done video.
I would invest in one of these if I used my multi tool more often. When you think about it, each carpenter goes through at least one type of blade a day and all of them end up in a skip bin. That's thousands of tonnes of high quality tool steel dumped every day, thousands of tonnes more ripped out of the ground and shipped to China to make a million more of these just to be thrown out after an 8-10 hour day. I stopped using mine because of how wasteful the tool was on even the nicer blades but this might be a help. Heck, it qould be a huge help. I'd be the gy going to every house to sharpen other people's stuff. I hope they make a steel or cast iron table for it because that plastc does get scratched up quite easily.
Just some visual design and some guides to help keeping the edges even.
I love my oscillating tool too. I am not strong but I feel i can control it vs sawzall , skill ( don’t own a skill. Too scared).
watched you doing the product. realized there are few problems and not see it addressed.
a. tooth set.
b. some blade tooth cut are not "equilateral" triangle cut. and I do not see wheel engineered for isosceles (sp) triangle cutting.
c. I understand you are sharpening manually. teeth edge has to be equal to be efficient. JIG is going to be mandatory with that sharpening tool.
been thinking on the isosceles triangle cut... realizing might not need to have a isosceles wheel. pair of straight wheel and cutting the angle off on side on side grind wheel well would be nice if set of wheel exist for isosceles.