Thanks, this is useful information for me since I'm thinking about buying a DA polisher. Your tips on how many pads to use and when to clean are very helpful. Good video!
Real polishers by the flex and don't cut corners let alone burn lines. This guy knows what hes doing folks. Don't get scared you can't burn the edges with a da I go 4 passes with rotary and I'm out. Based on experience and knowing how much clear coat I'm I'm removing. Everyone says it's bad don't burn the edges. I laugh 😅
As per usual: *It's done as per the customers budget, from there you manage their expectations* I've done cars with a machine glaze for customers who really just want a quick "enhanced" look, this can be done in literally a few hours. Then I've gone as far as chasing perfection with no end budget defined up front! It's all about the car and the customer. Be careful over them ridges though, excess time and pressure on the ridge and you can strike through. I know you know this, but just for anyone new to this and thinking it's all good to polish over lines of bodywork.
That hood line is called a “style line” or “character line”. Also when buffing style lines you want the rotation to come off the line vs spinning towards the line. It does much less damage to the line. Less chance of burn through.
1:19 Putting literally anything on the windshield wipers so it doesn't fall... I do that a lot... Kind of a bad habit. I have almost lost screwdrivers, light bulbs, bottles, rags, brushes and anything else that way... LOL!
Is a one step worth it on most vehicles that say no older then 10yrs old? Would a one step also work on a brand new vehicle or up to even a few years old?
Hello! Thank you for the video! I find it easy to polish details that are high, but what about details that are low? Like doors and bumpers. I can’t feel my legs and hands. I worked 2 days for 10 hours a day and now I have to do a finish. I seriously hate this job because there is no one to explain properly what to do
A customer says I want a inside and outside detail. Do you ALWAYS offer the steel removal, clay bar too? 90 percent of customers don't know about these other services
If you are doing any correction, you NEED to do iron removal, tar removal and clay bar Treatment. You want the clear coat as clean as possible before you even think about using a DA polisher. Iron removal is done by using a dedicated iron removal, such as Iron Out by Autofinesse. On lighter colours you will be able to see small orange dots where iron particles have landed and then began to rust. Iron Out will dissolve these and remove the contaminants safely, while turning purple to indicate the reaction. Jet wash it off after leaving it to dwell, but DO NOT let it dry on the surface.
@@ryan_lawrence Hay this has opened up a whole new world. So if my obective it a ONE step. So 1: iron remover 2: clay bar 3: wash and rinse Than if I want to finish with HD SPEED. So this is a part of a one step
I have a yellow pad but it isn't getting rid of my heavy oxidation sandpaper would of been better I have 180 and higher grits too. But the yellow pad doesn't get all the heavy oxidation off fast I can show a pic of how my truck looks now but I did use a different color of grey on my truck that was bright silver metallic it was PS2 but my paint code is PS2 but they both bright silver metallic paint.
@@user-in8xx1xu5b No. I was in the garage. I end up switching to a new or different polish and it didn't dry up on me. I was using that mother s ceramic polish and i switched to 3D speed and it didn't dry on me anymore
@@user-in8xx1xu5b The only thing I have used from chemical guys was to be 36. A cutting polish. Its cool! But 3D speed was awesome. Dont expect medium cut. Its very light cut. It also has a built in wax. It last about 3...4 weeks.
Move polisher about inch every two seconds, you are moving polisher too fast here. Down Pressure on polisher should be just a tad more then just resting your hand on top of polisher. You should get the camera closer for us to see the after results. They're called body lines, not edges. And no! You don't want to polish in sections.... Breaking it up into 2 weekends or anything like that. If you do, the parts you did last weekend could have all kinds of fallout and brake dust on it. Do it all at once or not at all. It's only gonna take a few hours, give or take. Imo.
A yr ago i was so scared to polish. Now, i can relate to the videos. Done maybe 10, 1 step jobs. Probably 35 waz jobs.
300 interiors. Yr 3 🙏
Thanks, this is useful information for me since I'm thinking about buying a DA polisher. Your tips on how many pads to use and when to clean are very helpful. Good video!
Real polishers by the flex and don't cut corners let alone burn lines. This guy knows what hes doing folks. Don't get scared you can't burn the edges with a da I go 4 passes with rotary and I'm out. Based on experience and knowing how much clear coat I'm I'm removing. Everyone says it's bad don't burn the edges. I laugh 😅
As per usual:
*It's done as per the customers budget, from there you manage their expectations*
I've done cars with a machine glaze for customers who really just want a quick "enhanced" look, this can be done in literally a few hours.
Then I've gone as far as chasing perfection with no end budget defined up front! It's all about the car and the customer.
Be careful over them ridges though, excess time and pressure on the ridge and you can strike through. I know you know this, but just for anyone new to this and thinking it's all good to polish over lines of bodywork.
So kind of lift off a little where the body lines are to prevent from cutting too deep into the clear on the ridge?
@@midnightmystery544 I'd polish up to a ridge both sides to meet at that ridge (if that makes sense). Going over a ridge is unnecessary in my opinion.
That is very true
That hood line is called a “style line” or “character line”. Also when buffing style lines you want the rotation to come off the line vs spinning towards the line. It does much less damage to the line. Less chance of burn through.
The line that you are referring to is Character Line:). Nice video man!
What would you charge for this car?
Depends on the size of the car and how bad it is
@@orangepeel2223 literally said “this car”
@@davidipina2031 😂😂
Estimated cost: $50 for wash $200 for One Step polish $250 total
Probs 280
What polisher would you recommend for someone starting out ? Chemical guys , spta , bauer etc. Thanks for the information
Bauer
Great, detailed video, thank you!
1:19 Putting literally anything on the windshield wipers so it doesn't fall... I do that a lot... Kind of a bad habit. I have almost lost screwdrivers, light bulbs, bottles, rags, brushes and anything else that way... LOL!
Hey there again. When waxing a entire car with a orbital do you have to wipe and swap the pad at a certain point to prevent heating?
The lines as coined as flame surfacing. The design was first started by BMW by Chris Bangel.
f350 extended cab extended rear end extended tow mirrors extended long bed extended extended hahaa that was hilarious.. made my day actually! haha
Thanks for the information, will try it out.
What kind of pads ...light-medium or medium-heavy
What the difference between 1 step and 2 step correction
1 step your using 1 pad and one product , 2 step your using a compound and a polish
Is a one step worth it on most vehicles that say no older then 10yrs old? Would a one step also work on a brand new vehicle or up to even a few years old?
Rotary or DA ? I've tried both but using the DA takes forever so idk if I'm using it right
Hello! Thank you for the video! I find it easy to polish details that are high, but what about details that are low? Like doors and bumpers. I can’t feel my legs and hands. I worked 2 days for 10 hours a day and now I have to do a finish. I seriously hate this job because there is no one to explain properly what to do
Thank you very good video. We need you to teach the rotary too!
That’s a body line my friend
A customer says I want a inside and outside detail. Do you ALWAYS offer the steel removal, clay bar too? 90 percent of customers don't know about these other services
U mean iron remover and claybar thats up to you what u want to offer just charge correctly
@@Angel_Peg Now I think about it. What are some signs you sould use a Iron remove? This is one service I don't offer for that reason.
@@patrickguida3979 I think iron removal should always be done before a correction.
If you are doing any correction, you NEED to do iron removal, tar removal and clay bar Treatment.
You want the clear coat as clean as possible before you even think about using a DA polisher.
Iron removal is done by using a dedicated iron removal, such as Iron Out by Autofinesse.
On lighter colours you will be able to see small orange dots where iron particles have landed and then began to rust. Iron Out will dissolve these and remove the contaminants safely, while turning purple to indicate the reaction.
Jet wash it off after leaving it to dwell, but DO NOT let it dry on the surface.
@@ryan_lawrence Hay this has opened up a whole new world. So if my obective it a
ONE step. So 1: iron remover 2: clay bar 3: wash and rinse Than if I want to finish with HD SPEED. So this is a part of a one step
What’s the difference between a polishing towel and a microfiber towel?
Great video man!
What about if I wanna do small areas by hand ? Is that possible or do I need a machine
Would you recommend the G15? currently have the G8&G9 combo and looking for an upgrade, was also told the shinemate ex620 was a good option.
Good job, important info, but what camera do you use?
How many pads does it take to polish a car in 1 step?
I have a yellow pad but it isn't getting rid of my heavy oxidation sandpaper would of been better I have 180 and higher grits too. But the yellow pad doesn't get all the heavy oxidation off fast I can show a pic of how my truck looks now but I did use a different color of grey on my truck that was bright silver metallic it was PS2 but my paint code is PS2 but they both bright silver metallic paint.
Dont stay on that edge too long, you may take off more clear coat then you want to. Dont stay in one place with the polisher
Mostly with a rotary with a da is more forgiving
I see you used the Griots G15.... I'm new to paint correcting and was going to get the G9.... do you have any input on that tool?
Bro I enjoy watching your videos and you just happen to be from the H. Was wondering how do I contact you for pricing on services?
Good one 👌
Can I use one pad for the whole car?
Ehh, yes you can, you'll just have to stop a lot to clean it.
You didn’t wash the car before polishing??? Why?
Why does my polish keep drying up on me? it be so hard to buff off the paint
Are you using it in the sun?
Make sure you prime the pad also
@@user-in8xx1xu5b No. I was in the garage. I end up switching to a new or different polish and it didn't dry up on me. I was using that mother s ceramic polish and i switched to 3D speed and it didn't dry on me anymore
@@Dee--Jay how do you like the 3D? And have you ever used anything from chemical guys?
@@user-in8xx1xu5b The only thing I have used from chemical guys was to be 36. A cutting polish. Its cool! But 3D speed was awesome. Dont expect medium cut. Its very light cut. It also has a built in wax. It last about 3...4 weeks.
extended rear view mirror LOL
The Hoodie is ill
Haha thanks... it's all discolored and raggedy
Is that a go cart ? LOL
1st
Move polisher about inch every two seconds, you are moving polisher too fast here. Down Pressure on polisher should be just a tad more then just resting your hand on top of polisher. You should get the camera closer for us to see the after results. They're called body lines, not edges. And no! You don't want to polish in sections.... Breaking it up into 2 weekends or anything like that. If you do, the parts you did last weekend could have all kinds of fallout and brake dust on it. Do it all at once or not at all. It's only gonna take a few hours, give or take. Imo.
Dude just stop
Ok mr know it all🤣🤣🤣
I wish all these how to videos people would just STOP talking and show how to do it.