Scottish Ice trip in Ben Nevis - with the Petzl Team
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- Опубліковано 18 бер 2010
- If there is one place on earth where climbers celebrate the arrival of the next snowstorm, it has to be Scotland. Each winter, pounded by the North Atlantic winds, the Scottish Highlands are covered by a layer of snow and frost at the mercy of weather conditions. Here, winter climbing has existed for more than a century, and the smell of adventure is as authentic as the whisky borne of the local peat. Climbing is done from the ground up, without bolts, and generally onsight. An introduction to the very modern ethics of Scottish mixed climbing. It's in those condition that Ueli Steck flashed "the secret" (X, 10), the hardest climb in Ben Nevis.
Written & directed by Guillaume Broust
/ guillaume_broust
/ guillaumebroust - Спорт
commenting as Pete lamb I climbed on Nevis in the late 50s I was in the navy, stationed at Lossiemouth, we went to Nevis on weekends . We made all our own gear didn't even have front point crampons in those days or cams. I shudder to think what would happen if we ever fell hard on the stuff we made. I still have the wooden handled aschen bruker ice axe I used. We camped and climbed for a week on Nevis in 1959 the last time I was there. The last night we were there it thawed and rained and our tents got flooded and all our food and clothing got soaked we spent the remainder of the night sitting in a corrugated iron shed on an iron water pump that supplied water for the distillery but we still climbed when it got light. We scraped the soggy bread and oat meal stuck on the tent into a pot cooked it up and ate it with some jam that survived
Rugged!
This is my favorite climbing movie, just as good as it was 12 years ago.
I can watch Ueli climb The Secret over and over again.. what a legend. what a sad day..RIP Ueli
That bit on Nevis where said, "but you must not fall..." is now so poignant. For me, he was the Lionel Messi of mountaineering. So, so devastated at his passing.
He was the best, period. Still is. It's a shame there isn't much footage of his climbing
@@noiseforthealgorithm4668 True. 5 years later and I'm still watching this with sadness in a way. So inspiring.
What a delightful and light-hearted film with some badass climbing. I could watch this all day
Interesting and rather complimentary that alpinists visit and really respect Scotland. I didn't expect it.
Great to watch Uli climb again truly a missed soul in the climbing and alpine world
What a great video! Nice to see Scottish mixed climbing being sampled by some of the european climbing elite, and Ueli Steck is on my all-time legends list :D
Really enjoyed this video! Great editing
Sick climbing boys and great editing...favourited!
The monologues in the beginning and the end bring a tear to the eye.
Brilliant video!
Awesome video. Very well done.
Awesome film!!
Climbed it a few times,, what a stunning place!
Awesome...nice story and pictures!
great video......epic climbing
Amazing video!!
That was so dope!
Très belles images de ce pays magnifique, sa musique, ses traditions et la rudesse de son climat. Sans oublier sa "majesté" le Ben Nevis qu'il ne faut surtout pas sous estimer
Brilliant climbing video
Great video, beautiful landscapes, and these handsome, healthy young men wow...
I will have to watch this one on my Apple TV.
Best editing E-V-E-R at 15:16 "Bang" - cut music, play again with the next chop, perfectly done!!!! Had to watch it on and on ;-)
Yeah that sure is epic climbing man :)
Great video!
Nice job setting the belay; nuts are always the best
These guys have a great sense of humour
Gradevole con personaggi affiatati e simpatici.
8;35..."where are all the bolts on this nice slab"?
You don't need'em"
Trad ethics...it's a toughie, but we prefer it stayed that way!
Good to hear French voices on the Ben.
Excellent video!
Very nice video thanks to deal that!
Ace vid!
You are missed Ueli....enjoy your journey...Namaste...
Excellent video, totally I have to visit Scotland for climbing, where can I find more info about the places?
If it's good enough for Ueli Steck...
Nice video guys
The video is fantastic, so much fun to see so much talent.
Are there plans at Petzl to make friends, stoppers and hexes?
There's a nice path around the other side you could have used and you wouldn't need all that gear!
Good job.....
Very inspired
very nice video
Genial, ce filme!!
@Cjj4284 It's Newtyle quarry, above the village of Birnham, in Perthshire. Grades range from M4 - M12 (and higher) and sport up to 8b (theres only about 8 sport routes though; don't drytool on them!)
Some Sketchy placements from that french guy.
That cam at 5:01 O.o
Someone can Upload a track list? im searching quite some time for the song at 3:00
Was surprising to hear Alan Hinkes in there :p
Ueli was a bad ass!
einfach cool
Man these french guys are a riot
What is the name of the poem being recited in the start and at the end?
Could anybody tell me name of the Yann Mimet's Jacket in 15;21? :D
What boots is Ueli Steck wearing in his ascent of The Secret?
what song is at 20:15?
Great video is there any advice you can give to someone who wants to start climbing?
Seek out a radioactive spider and get it to bite you. Job done.
www.maximumadventure.com/climbs-mountains/single-pitch-climbing.html
www.maximumadventure.com/climbs-mountains/introduction-to-winter-climbing-lochaber.html
right there my friend. (given that you live in the UK)
I know I'm late to the party, and assuming you haven't already started. Things to do, go on a taster session with an indoor wall to see if it's your kind of thing. Learn to belay, people will be reluctant to climb with you if you don't know how. Find someone experienced to start out with, or a club to join, some walls run belay clubs. I hope you take it up, there is nothing quite like climbing
Can anyone share the track list? Esspecially the track starts at 7:00
eKoman feat Laetitia D - This Is A Dream
+Siyas Mohammed thank you sir!!! saved my day!
i dont know how these guys dont fall constantly, their balls HAVE to be weighing them down
music in 16;00?
‘I gwew up ere loike moi favver’ - a Scotsman by way of the south east England
hey guys, where is this pub located (20:00)?
The Clachaig Inn is just outside Glencoe village.
Thanks.
+epos Expedition best pub in scotland in my opinion
Guys please read the instruction of Cams/Friends use... Please!! love it to see you doing this adventures but do it right then.
Check out the Cairngorms
It's an Arcteryx 'Oxfam' jacket
Can some one give me the name of the song at 7:06 please
eKoman feat Laetitia D - This Is A Dream
Those look a lot like bolts at 22:51
They are, but the rock they are placed in is quarried therefore not classed as natural, so you can develop it as a sport crag and place bolts.
My claim to fame: I put my rock shoes on while sitting on the same rock that Ueli Steck used!
Alan Hinkes, you have climbed the world's 14 highest mountains. Why on Earth are you talking about Nessie ?
I live in scotland
Music at 17:00 please?
Not good
Nevis Venus , tammy lynx Dunbar iliac
@Equipoutdoor Love this. We have done this many times and met some of the greatest minds on the planet. Its just so great to get out doors and discover new things and people. The Cairn gorms is my one of my favourite places at the moment. We have created a web site now called Equip Outdoors www.equipoutdoors.co.uk Keep the great videos coming and peace out.
pete lamb
skip to 2:28 for the actual vid!
I made it to the top in 1 hr 45 minutes and got down within 3 hours
When i watch this video i get so pissed of that scotland did not become independent. I was going to emigrate there if the Sweden Democrats ever got to much power here in Sweden.
What exactly does this video have to do with Scottish independence?
Chavhunter1000 absolutely nothing. It's just that I like Scotland and I supported their independence.
We are having another referendum next year 54% so far yes
+Henrik Sommerland That's the thing - tons of people around the world thinking "Oh, it's such a lovely place, they deserve their independence.", but having absolutely no clue about the complex economic, social and political issues involved. Somehow around the world all Scots are always portrayed as wanting independence, but there is a reason the majority of Scots voted AGAINST independence in the last referendum.
+AGH331 Yeah, the reason being fear
Hi Petzl Sport, my name is Harry and I'm contacting you from the Channel 5 Documentary series Winter Road Rescue - the series follows the brave efforts of our emergency services who come to the aid of people affected by adverse weather conditions. This footage would really help build up one of our stories - would you be happy for us to use it? Please email me for more info: harry@specialeditionfilms.com Thanks!
Necessary necessity nexcess lockit lookit eyeduck eyelids Iliad blinkers blinds blindside 20/20 datelines wrinkle fingerprints imprints said openmind unlock necessary our minds treasure chest of knowledge , tammy Lynn Dunbar or the y sometimes still a vowel
"We can protect them with natural gear, so why put bolts in?"
So people who can't afford to splash out a grand on a trad rack can climb them too? Because bolts of a high quality that are monitored are safer than trad gear?
Despite having lived here for years, I still really don't get British bolting 'ethics'. Keep the mountains 'clear'? We're talking about little metal pieces an inch or two in diameter, on enormous mountain faces! It's not like it's ruining the views for anyone, or hurting the rock ...
I think the preference is as much (for want of a better word) philosophical, as it is physical.
Adding a permanent metal feature to a wall, regardless of how small, is still a physical alteration of a natural environment - and for some that concept is problematic when it is not entirely necessary.
Also, the more you bolt routes, the more you run the risk of attracting more people to attempt it (including possibly those less experienced). You can make the argument that by limiting the accessibility of a route you limit its traffic and other consequences associated with that.
I also think there is an elitism angle which I think is still relevant.
I'm not arguing either side of the argument but I also don't think buying a rack is prohibitively expensive - 9 times out of 10 if you want to get into mountaineering you do so through a group or a friend who already have enough gear to get you started without your own investment.
is this sport cus I don't think it is / if it is then they r cheats as they use assistance .they should get rid of the ropes then I would admire them more
Idiot
@@darrenlamb5640 took u just 4 yrs 2 answer my question /whos the idiot now
@@mickowen568 yeah cause that's just so idiotic. right
@@darrenlamb5640 whatever