I woke up last night to no heat and stumbled across this video at 3am. I got up this morning and tested the pressure switch, barely blew through the top hose and had continuity. Pulled off the black tube, sprayed the motor and fan blades with De-Oxit electrical cleaner, wiped it down with paper towels and it now works great again! The combustion fan motor is also MUCH quieter than it was before. Thanks for the video!
I've been trying to get my furnace to work for Days and watched many videos to help, but this is the video that did make my furnace run again. Ty and Gbu ✝️😎❤️🙏
You are a life saver! In the middle of covid 19 lockdown and my furnace quit working during winter and I live in Minnesota. When I woke up this morning I could see my breath it was so cold in my trailer house
I have this exact furnace. I thought it might be the pressure switch, but what happens is that my red light comes on solid and the furnace kicks on just fine and then it will stop "mid-cycle". When that happens the red light begins blinking twice as shown in your video here, but there's also a high pitched sound accompanying it. I took off the same plate you did in the video just looking to see, if maybe something was dirty, etc. I accidentally slipped and my hand put pressure on the largish white plug that has several wires coming from it. The furnace immediately turned on and ran again with no problems. Since then it's done this quite a few times and I've simply put a little pressure on that plug and it turns on no problem. I have no idea why it does this, but I'd be interested in any feedback anyone can give me.
Thank you Kenny for your question. If you could take a picture of the plug you accidently pushed on, that would help us to know how to figure out what's going on with your furnace. Feel free to post it here or email us. I look forward to helping you out. Thanks for watching our video!
Does the pressure switch connections have polarity? Does it matter which wire is plugged to where? I see one terminal connection on the pressure switch is marked "NO" and the other is marked "COM".
Thank you so much!!! You saved me also!!! Is it possible to do my own yearly maintenance on this furnace? Or does a technician only able to do that? I would love to do myself amd save money. Thanks for all your videos they are very helpful.
Hello, thanks for showing us this video, I think this is what I've been looking for, but question my furnace is making a noise, like a jammed band, what would you do, tha noise comes out of the motor, and is the same model, we are expecting a winter storm tomorrow and now this is happening at night, ( I'm from Iowa)
Hello and sorry for the late response. Your limit switch is the switches on the furnace that open the circuit, or open the circle of electricity, if the furnace is overheating. It is the switches on this model that has the blue wires running to them. They are designed to be always closed unless there is a problem, which on this furnace, if they are open, meaning the circle of electrical flow is interrupted, then the fan is triggered to come on to cool the unit. Some troubleshooting would be, blower motor going bad, super dirty filters or too many closed registers, and sometimes bad circuit board. Thanks
I had a bad limit switch and a noisy combustion blower. I replaced both. The combustion blower didn't have the connector...just two wires. I now have a pressure switch open. My question is...do the two wires on the combustion blower have a certain polarity or does it matter which ones go to the connector? It made me think that if they were reversed the pressure switch would read open.
The wires don’t mater which side the go on, however, most of the time it’s because I have the tubes on the wrong side. And, did you replace it with the exact same part? What connector didn’t it have? The new one has to have the tube connectors to run the pressure switch.
I connected a wire to the two pressure switch wires to bypass it like you suggested, and it shorted out my unit and I can no longer turn it back on. I think it blew the fuse on the circuit board. Why is this happening?
Make sure you are connecting only the wires to the pressure switch but do this after the furnace has started running. i.e. after the combustion air motor has started. If you are connecting only the two pressure switch wires together at that time and it blew the fuse on the circuit board, sounds like an internal short on the circuit board. check for bare wires everywhere first, then blame circuit board. That would be what needs replaced.
@@randythemobilehomeguy3715 I was connecting the wires BEFORE the furnace was started, my mistake. I replaced the fuse which got the circuit board back on and the unit running. This time I connected the wires after starting the furnace, waited a few minutes, and boom it popped back on and the igniter started! Confirms the pressure switch is bad. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
@@randythemobilehomeguy3715 my heater doesn’t heat the house. It only works for cold air.when I turn heat on the fan doesn’t work. The heater has 2 flashing red lights .when I turn heat on all I hear is a click.I already replaced the limit switch & pressure switch and it doesn’t heat.it doesn’t turn the furnace on. If anyone knows the solution replie to me.thanks
Hi. Is the red light supposed to stay on even after it cycles. I camt get ignition and after its done trying the red light turns off. Bad control board?
Hello, the a/c does not use the pressure system to run. The pressure system on your furnace -a/c is designed to pull outside air into the burn chamber (heat exchanger) for burning gas. It is tested or proved in the heat cycle to make sure flame is getting the correct amount of air. The a/c side of the furnace only really uses the control board, transformer, and main plowed unit.
It is normal for this unit. You want to see blue from the end of where the flame comes out to where it hits the spreader plate. From there it’s pushed into the oxygen rich chamber, or heat exchanger, and turns quickly orange and yellow.
Ok so I am getting the two flashing red. Replaced the pressure switch but still doing it. Filters were replaced. Thermostat batteries were replaced and I hear a click when turned to heat but nothing comes on. Also when I set the thermostat to off and then turn the fan on the fan does work on the furnace. So would that still mean the motor is bad?
Hello I have the same problem.when I turn the heater on nothing works all I hear is a click .and I replaced the limit switch and the pressure switch. And it doesn’t work. Kate Maria have found solution?
Hello, it’s important to see what the red light is doing during these problems. It will try three times to go through the start up so it may take a few minutes before it flashes. Also, I always try to bypass the thermostat at the furnace before anything, which is done by connecting the red and white wires. This takes the thermostat question out of the equation. Also, same with limits if you think that’s the problem, before simply replacing them. This furnace turns on the main blower immediately if the limits are bad so that is a great indicator if you should look at the limits as the potential problem.
So I replaced the pressure switch and the induction motor it will run for a bit then fault out sometimes after 1 cycle sometimes after multiple...where do I go on here
Sounds like one of your parts might be faulty. I’m assuming we are talking about the same furnace we are looking at here. That pressure switch closes at .2 and the motor pulls sometimes at a low .25 which is pretty close together. And chance you have a water column tester? I’d test the motor during a cycle. If you don’t , try bypassing the pressure switch, only while testing, after the motor has started and see if it still short cycles. If it does blame the motor, making sure the intake pipe and flue has been checked and is clear. Unfortunately when it fails after multiple cycles it’s harder to catch. Sorry not of more help.
Hello, depending on which furnace you have the four flashes can mean different things. If its ignition failure sometimes that means the ignitor you used as replacement was the wrong one or that it was not installed angled enough into the flame. Sometimes I will 'bend' the bracket just a touch to get it to be more in front of the flame. The question would be, do you get a flame on start up just for a few moments and then goes out? Ignitor, which acts as the flame sensor on most models, is the the potential problem or bad control board, but that's rare. If you never get to the ignitor coming on then usually it's a pressure or pressure switch problem which is either fan not pushing hard enough or switch is not good, bit make sure to check air intake, ie roof jack for those darn spring time birds if the pressure problem exists.
Hello, what is the model number? There are a few different types for sure, all of which do the same thing. Some have four wires, two for power and two in a centrifugal switch in the bottom of the motor. We can usually get you the motor if we get a model number.
@@randydolph852 model number DGAA070BDTB. Front panel says Revolv, bit I when I looked it up says it's Coleman. Removed the motor cover and determined the fan was not moving. Ordered a new booster fan. Just couldn't figure out how to remove it. No visible screws, just appears to be a solid pipe all the way to the top of the unit. I'm assuming my new booster will come with instructions.
On that furnace you have to remove the valve on the bottom section of the furnace, also take out the screws that hold on that round plate (the back of the burner assembly) and carefully pull out burner assembly, then the screws around the large air intake, the thing that says hot, all are 5/16 screws and the motor and pipe will move down a few inches. Remove tubes from pressure switch, wires and pipe and then motor will lift out. A real pain for sure
Hello, that does sound like a bigger problem. Does it actually deform? If it is getting it hot enough to deform sounds like you are loosing heat containment and have a heat exchanger problem. If the deformity is more of a motor mount issue, like the screws holding it to the inner walls then may be time for a new one, or have you tried that with similar results? I have often came across this seeming light duty motor that has an important heavy duty job and the windings are squealing, making itself quite a pain. The motor runs for years but is just loud. Sometimes sever cold weather makes it worst ad it’s pulling outside air across itself
Old one (metal) Lasted 30 years. New one plastic is 3 months old. Clearances suck, motor mount suck. Extra screws added to housing today. We will see what happens next -40 weather. I think its from Hot/Cold cycling through it. Fan is not centred and can move all over with the flimsy plastic
Obviously not pure oxygen. Yes air, but what part in the air is the part at work in the combustion? Oxygen. It pulls in the oxygen needed for combustion.
@@randythemobilehomeguy3715 As I mentioned, if only undiluted oxygen is pulled in,( as your sentence implies) the resulting combustion in the furnace would probably be explosive on ignition. If you are going to mention one of the elemental gas components in the complex molecule, in the interest of accuracy and instructive education, you should mention them all .. Nitrogen: 78% Oxygen: 21% Argon: 0.93% Carbon dioxide: 0.04% Trace amounts: Helium, neon, methane hydrogen, and water vapor ... *OR* , as is much more common, use the easily understood shorthand collective noun for this complex of gases that dilute the oxygen... *air* . People listening to your instructive explanation of how the gas furnace works could easily take your explanation literally with disastrous results, or at the very least a gross misunderstanding of what is needed to make a gas furnace work. What seems obvious to you may not be obvious to someone who is learning. Words matter. Especially when you have taken on the task of teaching.
I've had mine for 9 years and zero problems with it. It just started yesterday with the open pressure switch problem. I pulled off the black tube, sprayed it with De-Oxit electrical cleaner and wiped it down and it works like a champ again!
The very model that has been short-cycling on me for months. This video helped me get it back to proper operation. Thanks!
I woke up last night to no heat and stumbled across this video at 3am. I got up this morning and tested the pressure switch, barely blew through the top hose and had continuity. Pulled off the black tube, sprayed the motor and fan blades with De-Oxit electrical cleaner, wiped it down with paper towels and it now works great again! The combustion fan motor is also MUCH quieter than it was before. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the comment. Glad it was a straight forward fix. Good work, and great job braving the diy thing
Every time..
I've been trying to get my furnace to work for Days and watched many videos to help, but this is the video that did make my furnace run again. Ty and Gbu ✝️😎❤️🙏
That is awesome. Thanks for the reply
You are a life saver! In the middle of covid 19 lockdown and my furnace quit working during winter and I live in Minnesota. When I woke up this morning I could see my breath it was so cold in my trailer house
Glad I could help. Stay safe!
Thanks. Pinpointed the problem. Didn't use, but actually have a Magnehelic. Perfectly new, thrown out as obsolete stock at a company I worked for.
Thanks a lot, having the 2 flash indicator symptoms just like in your video. Now I know what components to look at.👍
Glad we were able to help you out with your flash codes. Thank you for watching!
Wonderful video and info! Worked great for me, very simple fix. Thank you so much!!!!
Thank you, you save my life, very well explained, this's what I was looking for, God Bless man.
THANK YOU SO MUCH IT WAS VERY WELL EXPLAINED!
Thanks for this. You've earned a new sub. 😊
Thanks for posting this video. It was very helpful.
Fantastic video well explained too, thanks for sharing and regards.
I have this exact furnace. I thought it might be the pressure switch, but what happens is that my red light comes on solid and the furnace kicks on just fine and then it will stop "mid-cycle". When that happens the red light begins blinking twice as shown in your video here, but there's also a high pitched sound accompanying it. I took off the same plate you did in the video just looking to see, if maybe something was dirty, etc. I accidentally slipped and my hand put pressure on the largish white plug that has several wires coming from it. The furnace immediately turned on and ran again with no problems. Since then it's done this quite a few times and I've simply put a little pressure on that plug and it turns on no problem. I have no idea why it does this, but I'd be interested in any feedback anyone can give me.
Thank you Kenny for your question. If you could take a picture of the plug you accidently pushed on, that would help us to know how to figure out what's going on with your furnace. Feel free to post it here or email us. I look forward to helping you out. Thanks for watching our video!
Does the pressure switch connections have polarity? Does it matter which wire is plugged to where? I see one terminal connection on the pressure switch is marked "NO" and the other is marked "COM".
Thank you so much!!! You saved me also!!! Is it possible to do my own yearly maintenance on this furnace? Or does a technician only able to do that? I would love to do myself amd save money. Thanks for all your videos they are very helpful.
How the he'll do I remove the blower housing to replace the ecm blower motor?
Hello, thanks for showing us this video, I think this is what I've been looking for, but question my furnace is making a noise, like a jammed band, what would you do, tha noise comes out of the motor, and is the same model, we are expecting a winter storm tomorrow and now this is happening at night, ( I'm from Iowa)
HI THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS ,WHAT IS YOUR LIMIT SWITCH ,??
Hello and sorry for the late response. Your limit switch is the switches on the furnace that open the circuit, or open the circle of electricity, if the furnace is overheating. It is the switches on this model that has the blue wires running to them. They are designed to be always closed unless there is a problem, which on this furnace, if they are open, meaning the circle of electrical flow is interrupted, then the fan is triggered to come on to cool the unit. Some troubleshooting would be, blower motor going bad, super dirty filters or too many closed registers, and sometimes bad circuit board. Thanks
My furnace shows no problem codes. All lights steady, blow works, fire in the furnace, but its blowing cold air. I dont know what else it could be.
Maybe the AC us running at tye same time as the heat
What about if the red light is off but can hear electrical hum still?
I had a bad limit switch and a noisy combustion blower. I replaced both. The combustion blower didn't have the connector...just two wires. I now have a pressure switch open. My question is...do the two wires on the combustion blower have a certain polarity or does it matter which ones go to the connector? It made me think that if they were reversed the pressure switch would read open.
The wires don’t mater which side the go on, however, most of the time it’s because I have the tubes on the wrong side. And, did you replace it with the exact same part? What connector didn’t it have? The new one has to have the tube connectors to run the pressure switch.
Yes....tubes were on the wrong side! After reset, everything works! Thanks!
I connected a wire to the two pressure switch wires to bypass it like you suggested, and it shorted out my unit and I can no longer turn it back on. I think it blew the fuse on the circuit board. Why is this happening?
Make sure you are connecting only the wires to the pressure switch but do this after the furnace has started running. i.e. after the combustion air motor has started. If you are connecting only the two pressure switch wires together at that time and it blew the fuse on the circuit board, sounds like an internal short on the circuit board. check for bare wires everywhere first, then blame circuit board. That would be what needs replaced.
@@randythemobilehomeguy3715 I was connecting the wires BEFORE the furnace was started, my mistake. I replaced the fuse which got the circuit board back on and the unit running. This time I connected the wires after starting the furnace, waited a few minutes, and boom it popped back on and the igniter started! Confirms the pressure switch is bad. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
@@randythemobilehomeguy3715 my heater doesn’t heat the house. It only works for cold air.when I turn heat on the fan doesn’t work. The heater has 2 flashing red lights .when I turn heat on all I hear is a click.I already replaced the limit switch & pressure switch and it doesn’t heat.it doesn’t turn the furnace on. If anyone knows the solution replie to me.thanks
When changing the combustion motor do you need to use silicone on the bottom of it?
I would not hurt anything
I bypass the pressure switch , and replace the inducer motor still get the code. I'm thinking it the control board??
I got a flashing yellow light for a weak flame, still get heat for now. could the issue be a faulty sensor that is throwing that error?
What about the Manometer reading at the point of ignition?
Hi. Is the red light supposed to stay on even after it cycles. I camt get ignition and after its done trying the red light turns off. Bad control board?
So how can you switch the pressure from furnace to ac?
Hello, the a/c does not use the pressure system to run. The pressure system on your furnace -a/c is designed to pull outside air into the burn chamber (heat exchanger) for burning gas. It is tested or proved in the heat cycle to make sure flame is getting the correct amount of air. The a/c side of the furnace only really uses the control board, transformer, and main plowed unit.
What silicone do you recommend
Hello, we use a clear 100% silicone, nothing acrylic. It doesn’t get hot there so heat resistant isn’t necessary. Thanks for the question
What color should my nat gas flame be? My new unit comes out blue and turns 80% orange. Is this normal for this unit?
It is normal for this unit. You want to see blue from the end of where the flame comes out to where it hits the spreader plate. From there it’s pushed into the oxygen rich chamber, or heat exchanger, and turns quickly orange and yellow.
Ok so I am getting the two flashing red. Replaced the pressure switch but still doing it. Filters were replaced. Thermostat batteries were replaced and I hear a click when turned to heat but nothing comes on. Also when I set the thermostat to off and then turn the fan on the fan does work on the furnace. So would that still mean the motor is bad?
Hello I have the same problem.when I turn the heater on nothing works all I hear is a click .and I replaced the limit switch and the pressure switch. And it doesn’t work. Kate Maria have found solution?
Hello, it’s important to see what the red light is doing during these problems. It will try three times to go through the start up so it may take a few minutes before it flashes. Also, I always try to bypass the thermostat at the furnace before anything, which is done by connecting the red and white wires. This takes the thermostat question out of the equation. Also, same with limits if you think that’s the problem, before simply replacing them. This furnace turns on the main blower immediately if the limits are bad so that is a great indicator if you should look at the limits as the potential problem.
Have same system. First cycle Runs full as normal. Then continously short cycles after that. Any Ideas?
When you say short cycle could you tell me more. So it burns and blows but then flame goes out and blower shuts off and starts over the cycle again?
where is the flame sensor? you didn't to mention it
Hello, on this furnace, the ignitor doubles as the flame sensor. Thanks for the question
So I replaced the pressure switch and the induction motor it will run for a bit then fault out sometimes after 1 cycle sometimes after multiple...where do I go on here
The code is open switch
Sounds like one of your parts might be faulty. I’m assuming we are talking about the same furnace we are looking at here. That pressure switch closes at .2 and the motor pulls sometimes at a low .25 which is pretty close together. And chance you have a water column tester? I’d test the motor during a cycle. If you don’t , try bypassing the pressure switch, only while testing, after the motor has started and see if it still short cycles. If it does blame the motor, making sure the intake pipe and flue has been checked and is clear. Unfortunately when it fails after multiple cycles it’s harder to catch. Sorry not of more help.
What about 4 flashes? Just replaced igniter and was working fine. Now the igniter turns off and I get 4 flashes again. 🤔🤔
Hello, depending on which furnace you have the four flashes can mean different things. If its ignition failure sometimes that means the ignitor you used as replacement was the wrong one or that it was not installed angled enough into the flame. Sometimes I will 'bend' the bracket just a touch to get it to be more in front of the flame. The question would be, do you get a flame on start up just for a few moments and then goes out? Ignitor, which acts as the flame sensor on most models, is the the potential problem or bad control board, but that's rare. If you never get to the ignitor coming on then usually it's a pressure or pressure switch problem which is either fan not pushing hard enough or switch is not good, bit make sure to check air intake, ie roof jack for those darn spring time birds if the pressure problem exists.
12:42 You say a green lite comes on indicating flame, It's a Yellow lite, not green.
My pipe does not come apart and inducer motor appears to be a small insert screwed into side of pipe and not a pipe sized insert. Is that common?
Hello, what is the model number? There are a few different types for sure, all of which do the same thing. Some have four wires, two for power and two in a centrifugal switch in the bottom of the motor. We can usually get you the motor if we get a model number.
@@randydolph852 model number DGAA070BDTB. Front panel says Revolv, bit I when I looked it up says it's Coleman. Removed the motor cover and determined the fan was not moving. Ordered a new booster fan. Just couldn't figure out how to remove it. No visible screws, just appears to be a solid pipe all the way to the top of the unit.
I'm assuming my new booster will come with instructions.
On that furnace you have to remove the valve on the bottom section of the furnace, also take out the screws that hold on that round plate (the back of the burner assembly) and carefully pull out burner assembly, then the screws around the large air intake, the thing that says hot, all are 5/16 screws and the motor and pipe will move down a few inches. Remove tubes from pressure switch, wires and pipe and then motor will lift out. A real pain for sure
@@randydolph852 thanks. That helped. Appreciate it.
Was trying to not have to remove the burner assembly, but I guess can't get around it. 😃
Mine ain’t flashing at all solid red solid yellow still no hot air ? Can’t find the problem
Hello, did you check the oriface for a clog. We have a few other videos that might help with failed ignition. Mobile Home Parts R Us
Try looking up ‘Failed ignition on a mobile home furnace’ on our videos. Thanks
What is the best mobile home furnace?
Hello, I prefer Nordyne over the other brands, though the parts for them are a little more expensive. I do find they last longer.
These furnace are a piece of crap I have had to fix something in it every year.
When I jumped the wires it started blinking three times
Did you wait to jump then until the motor started?
Problem with mine is the plastic housing always deforms and fan rubs inside. At my wits end!!!!!!!!!!!
Hello, that does sound like a bigger problem. Does it actually deform? If it is getting it hot enough to deform sounds like you are loosing heat containment and have a heat exchanger problem. If the deformity is more of a motor mount issue, like the screws holding it to the inner walls then may be time for a new one, or have you tried that with similar results? I have often came across this seeming light duty motor that has an important heavy duty job and the windings are squealing, making itself quite a pain. The motor runs for years but is just loud. Sometimes sever cold weather makes it worst ad it’s pulling outside air across itself
Old one (metal) Lasted 30 years. New one plastic is 3 months old. Clearances suck, motor mount suck. Extra screws added to housing today. We will see what happens next -40 weather. I think its from Hot/Cold cycling through it. Fan is not centred and can move all over with the flimsy plastic
8:00 You said that the inducer motor is good, then you said it's bad. I don't get it.
I think he was just showing two different scenarios as an example.....
You just said motor is good. Than said motor is bad
Combustion fan blows AIR,... Not oxygen , Air is about 21% oxygen.
If the fan blew pure oxygen the furnace would explode.
Obviously not pure oxygen. Yes air, but what part in the air is the part at work in the combustion? Oxygen. It pulls in the oxygen needed for combustion.
@@randythemobilehomeguy3715 As I mentioned, if only undiluted oxygen is pulled in,( as your sentence implies) the resulting combustion in the furnace would probably be explosive on ignition.
If you are going to mention one of the elemental gas components in the complex molecule, in the interest of accuracy and instructive education, you should mention them all ..
Nitrogen: 78%
Oxygen: 21%
Argon: 0.93%
Carbon dioxide: 0.04%
Trace amounts: Helium, neon, methane
hydrogen, and water vapor
... *OR* , as is much more common, use the easily understood shorthand collective noun for this complex of gases that dilute the oxygen... *air*
.
People listening to your instructive explanation of how the gas furnace works could easily take your explanation literally with disastrous results, or at the very least a gross misunderstanding of what is needed to make a gas furnace work. What seems obvious to you may not be obvious to someone who is learning.
Words matter.
Especially when you have taken on the task of teaching.
I have this exact unit....i hate it so much
I hear that a lot. Is there a specific area, like the pressure system or failed ignition you keep having problems with?
@@randydolph852 my combustion thing went out. the black thing lol
I've had mine for 9 years and zero problems with it. It just started yesterday with the open pressure switch problem. I pulled off the black tube, sprayed it with De-Oxit electrical cleaner and wiped it down and it works like a champ again!
I don't understand why a stupid mustache tattoo on a finger?