Thank you! Because of your video, I was able to replace the ignitor and we now have heat! It is 51 degrees in the house with tonight's temp being 26 so you saved us from a very, very cold night. Please keep those video's on self-repairing your furnace coming as it saved me from becoming very cold as I don't have the means to afford a repair company and the man who usually does the repairs for me is gone for 2 weeks. You are a true life saver in my case!
I've been having that issue for over a year, and finally I think you helped me solve it. I'll try cleaning it first, then if that doesn't fix it, I'll get a new ignitor. Thanks so much!
First below freezing night of this fall, and our furnace stopped working. Next day we used your video as a guide. We managed to replace a burned out igniter and save about $300 in repair costs. Kudos to you.
You're the best! If you were my neighbor you'd have a case of beer on your porch right now! Because of your tutorial I discovered that the "amateurs" who replaced my igniter (back in 2015!!!) used the incorrect one (a spiral type) that didn't double as a sensor. As a result, I too was getting the weak flame flashes for years. Little did I know the furnace was going on and off due to weak flame and would shut off. Thanks to your vid I saw the type I actually needed and purchased it on line for $40 and replaced it in ten mins. Boom, works great and yellow light stays on solid. I'm not mechanical at all so your vid was such a help. Thanks so much brother!!
So glad you made this video! it's negative 8 here fills like negative 36 with the wind. My furnace bin doing it but didn't think anything of it then it just got worse and of all nights tonight. Thank you so much for your video We would of had to leave and go stay somewhere else if it wasn't for your video. 👍👍
Thanks a lot my friend ,we’re living right now on ours sweet and beautiful mobile home, the furnace had a problem ,(red light flashing 4 times ) so clean igniter,the thing where is coming out gas blocked like white spider webs,so clean up ,put it back everything and works awesome .your video help a lot thanks again
I understand that the shaking camera is you trying to place it so we get a good view of what you are doing. I'm grateful you make these videos and don't understand why people don't just find a different one to watch if they don't like the one that's on. Thank you for caring about getting us a good view because when you haven't done this before it's nice to see exactly where the part is and how to get to it. Hadn't read other comments before the first post which is why this is later.
Thank you so much! I have been looking for the flame sensor for days, no furnace and was told that was most likely the problem, but didn't realize the ignitor and sensor were one. I also didn't know where it was and had already removed the screws but decided against removing the plate until I knew more about what I was doing. I now feel confident about cleaning the ignitor/sensor. Thank you again, it is a great video showing a novice how to do a simple, after you learn what to do, fix!!
Worked like a charm!!! About 17 months ago I replaced the igniter because it was shot, even tried cleaning it but no go. This time when the furnace stopped working, I found this video again, which I booked marked using Pocket, you got to get Pocket because it's awesome then I pulled out the igniter and it had some white oxidation on it. I used the steel wool and cleaned off the igniter thoroughly and the other parts that the flame blows onto, wherever I saw rust or oxidation on any metal, I cleaned it with steel wool. Even found a black area inside the combustion chamber that I cleaned with steel wool. Be sure to use blue non latex gloves so you don't touch the ceramic. If you touch the ceramic with your fingers it will crack. After all that it works great, flame is nice and blue (when you peek in the hole) which is what you want because a blue flame is hotter than a yellow flame so it will heat your home more efficiently. Thanks man you save me tons of money twice. The local boys said it would cost around $600 to fix. Thank God for UA-cam!
Will now fix an elderly gentleman's heater as his will not light at all nor does the igniter glow. It has red led flashing 4X indicating lock out due to failed ignition. Thanks a bunch!!!
At the most critical spot his camera was so close you couldn't see what was to be cleaned. Smh appreciate the attempt but man. He had ro of watched this before posting.
Great YT - But > Two things. ONE - on many to most N. Gas to LP (propane) conversions you have to change more then just the Orfice, depending on the gas valve because LP operates at a higher pressure. You need to research your if your unit needs a conversion kits which most include a piece to switch out on the gas valve, plus the Orifce and some kits with other parts also. Fewer do - yes - just need to change the Orfice. TWO - on cleaning the igniter - beware they are extremely fragile so be so gentle and slow - BUT - to not waste your time before attempting to clean igniter buy a 10-15 dollar multimeter (you'll end up using it alot - just to check batteries) set it to the lowest OHM setting and push your needle testing probes into each side of the plug some one else is holding cause it takes two hands for most if it reads more then 75 ohms it needs to be replaced. Don't buy local before checking Amazon because of local insane mark-ups. Example an igniter on Amazon for 18-21 dollars often goes for $45 to higher (except to licensed techs which you likely are not).
Thanks for the video! This morning I thought it felt a little cool in the house. My thermostat was 3* cooler than my desired temp. My hot surface ignitor was glowing and you could hear the gas valve click but it took a couple times before it actually came on. My yellow LED was flashing at that point meaning it was sensing a weak flame (flame is good) so flame sensor needs cleaned/replaced. I'm going to clean this one but order one for when this one goes out completely. Thanks again your video was a big help and could potentially save someone some $.
I want to say a huge thank you for giving me the info I needed to take my furnace apart. I wasn't sure what to expect if I took the cover off back of the gas valve but your video showed my exactly what to expect. Mine is a bit newer because the igniter is a coiled affair but that was not my problem. What I did find though was that bugs had built a nest inside of the fitting that the gas orifice screws into. The part that connects the gas valve to the actual furnace. Once I cleaned that out the flame was robust once again and the flashing yellow LED stopped. Yippee! Thanks again.
Thank you for the informative video. It would take me a while otherwise to figure out that igniter and flame sensor is the same thing on this furnace. It is -35C today and it is Christmas Day, so getting the heating fixed was quite a victory.
For anyone attempting this, it does work even if you think it doesnt look dirty or corroded. Try it anyway. But wear gloves and try not to touch it. Any oils from your fingers will interfere
Thank you. Had service out here a couple times adn it still acts up. I had a ignitor on the water heater in my old house, and I would reach in with some steel wool and clean it on occasion. I KNEW in my gut that was the issue here, but deferred, found your video which shows how to open the puppy up to get at it. It's running now, but I will get in there and clean it when it cools down. Gotta love UA-cam!
Thanks, John. Am about to order my new house and thought to investigate the furnace, Intertherm M7. I saw there were complaints about the igniter/flame detector. Had reservations about the buy until seeing your video. Now that I can see it is a simple fix when the time comes, Im no longer concerned and am ready to make the buy.
Thanks man. I was scared because mine was a old Coleman furnace in my mobile home but looked very similar to yours. Your video gave me the confidence I needed...[well your video and 20 degree nights] and since the furnace was having the same symptoms as yours like coming on and shutting down, flashing 1 time or 2 times or 3 times or no times, so I went ahead and did it remembering everything you showed. To my surprise there was a flame rod sensor in there to along with the igniter but no prob I cleaned em both up with some steel wool and put it back together.... Success!!! Running great. Thankyou again for making this. Your very good at it. Love the "how simple it is" attitude and today is December 23, the eve of Christmas eve so MERRY CHRISTMAS and have a HAPPY NEW YEAR.(Instead of paying a furnace guy now I can buy my sweetie something nice for Christmas} So actually when you think about it your our Santa Claus and i'm sure she will be thanking you to.bye Happy Holidays
This video is perfect! Not sure if I have this specific model, as mine is equipped with space below for an AC setup, but its layout is identical. I have run into many issues with my Intertherm furnace. From impossible to find parts (according to past repair claims) to undesirable heat output in the past. This winter I have run into the sporadic clicking of the gas valve opening and closing even though it shows a very normal/optimal flame. Sometimes it clicks open once, sometimes a few times rhythmically and sometimes it has a rather erratic rhythm opening and closing multiple times before the blower turns on. If anything in my house is possessed it has been this furnace unit. I had the flame sensor replaced about 3 years ago (see impossible to find part) and this video has helped me lock it down to most likely needing a cleaning. I am open to suggestion though if you think it could be a faulty valve since it tends to run open/close movements at rhythmic/erratic retry intervals, it decides a different approach each time it fires up, haha. Once it quits clicking though it is on steady and never clicks during blower operation. I have noticed though that the burner cuts out about 1 minute before the blower fan stops, I hope this is normal operation. Oh and to be long winded about this comment, my furnace likes to kick on a lot. Like every 15-20 minutes when really cold. Could just be the nature of this beast trying to maintain 70 but seems to be excessive cycling... or my house has a huge heat leak somewhere. I believe that when they replaced the flame sensor they cut the connection clip and have since used wire nuts to complete the connection. This leads me to believe that they used a different model sensor than OEM, will mark wires to ensure proper polarity just in case, thank you very much for this explanation!
Thank you for this awesome perfect demo video... To keep it short I'll just ask my question... What type of cleaner did you say to use to clean it with?
The one step i would add to your procedure and it's a safety precautionary step. I would turn that manual shut off gas valve on supply line to the closed position. Eliminate all possible chances of a gas release while you have the furnance gas valve removed. Safety First.
@ all energy sources that could pose a danger while servicing any type of equipment should be isolated or at least powered down, so yes electric should be off as well.
@darrenw.5237 so do I just turn the off switch off on the furnace, or should I shut it down from the electrical box? I know I sound pretty ignorant, but it seems like I have seen two videos where it didn't look like the person shut the gas off or thepower
@ Chris, just so we are clear. I’m not trying to discredit anyone on doing their own projects, I’m merely pointing out the safety hazards that could be encountered in taking on these home projects. Now as far as where you should isolate power is a matter of personal comfort and also what else is happening around them. I would say if there is no one else in immediate area that could accidentally turn the power on by the switch or switch is not located in a spot where it could get accidentally bumped on say by yourself while working in there, then by all means just turn power off at switch. Now if there is a chance of the reversals of what I just stated, extra people around, etc etc then personally myself for the time it takes i would shut the breaker off as well then that way you are double protected. In the end, it’s all about working safely and how much one values life. These videos you refer to, yes they may do it without the precautions and yes it can be done but all it’s going to take is one unexpected incident to happen. And when that incident does happen, hopefully for their sake it will not be fatal. Hope that helps.
@darrenw.5237 thanks so much. I appreciate you being kind enough to answer this. I had someone over earlier and they thought it just needed to be reset. And I saw a flame and thought that was it. But after they left, my wife realized it was blowing cold air and I saw the flame coming on then going out. Everyone in my home is complaining, wife and children, so I thought I would try to do what looks like a simple fix since no one can help till tomorrow. And I am very nervous messing around with a gas heater, but am trying to take a calculated risk. Much appreciated.
Thhat was my question, was thbe ignitor doubling as the flame sensor!? Thanks, you cleared that up for me, mine looks more like a steel spring wrapped around ceramic, but probably a different model year. Thanks again
Great Video, I am replacing the hot surface ignitor in the same furnace that you have in this video. Unfortunately, I did not pay close attention to the placement of the old one when I took it off the burner. The limited directions say the ignitor should be in line with the right edge of the left burner and located approximately 1/8 " from the burner. Would you be able to give more details I cant quite see the placement of yours in the video. Thank you
My furnace still works but the amber light blinks saying weak flame. i guess i will try cleaning it. It got replaced like 3 yrs ago. Is the ignitor the same as "flame sensor"?
I installed new igniter it is brighter . Still clicks twice but doesn't lock 🔐 out or go for a retry . Light is solid. Always does the click before the solid yellow. They use to use a large flat m style . Worked on 100's of these but not with this style of igniter. Hope this helps someone.
I am having trouble finding any videos about the replacement filter of this furnace, I know they are supposed to be washable, but mine was actually just laying in my furnace and I don’t see any. Clips or anything to hold it in place It is this exact furnace. Do you have a video on that or any information?
Hey, just got sent here by a forum. I realize this is an 8 year old video but here’s a long shot hoping you still see this. I have changed the igniter/sensor for a new one and I am still getting the clicking at the valve. Any ideas on why it would still be doing it after a replacement with a new one?
Hi. This just may be the same furnace I have in a mobile home. We may have this very problem. However, we have a weird issue where if we leave the cover off the furnace (no filter or cover) and leave the louvered door way open, the furnace runs better. Would this still be that sensor that would cause that. Also, when this problem was first occurring, when I went to change the furnace filter to see if that would fix the problem, I was very surprised at just how warm the cover and just everything was at the furnace area. That part kind of scares me. Can having just a corroded sensor cause all those problems too, assuming everything is clean and there are no blockages? Thank you for your time and the making of the video.
We had the same issue, where it seemed to run better if the cover was off. The blower motor was also warmer to the touch, and it ended up being a failing circuit board. Once we replaced that, the furnace ran great again. We first tried replacing the blower motor, thinking that was the problem, but the problem continued, and that is when we replaced the circuit panel
it's called The Flame is not being rectified. the igniter can be good enough to light the flame initially but not rectify or sense the flame and will shut off replace the igniter.
I want to add to my comment. my heater when it is turned on to heat it just clicks and thats it will keep a pilot lite and the AC works good thank you for any help
jmc6000 hi, thx for the vid. I bought an ignitor thx to your vid but the last guy to work on took the screws holding the plate on the heater. Plz tell me are 5/16 head screws sheet metal screws or are they threaded to fit threads on the heater?
I have same furnace and its has 4 light code failed ignition. I dont see any flame coming out or ignitor lighting up. I pulled ignitor and its black on end and is the spiraled up kind. I'm assuming it's bad I'm going to replace it because when testing it for ohms I got no reading. The furnace just keeps clicking power board relays. I had the fan replaced last year and the pressure switch.
Hey jmc, you are great, but I do have a kind of different problem< is like the heating temperature isn't reaching the correct degrees therefore the boiler have to kick in too often , I don't know if is a solution, or I may need more insulation in my house, I hope you can help me Thanks very much. Wilfrido from Moonachie NJ
My furnace was doing the same clicking sound from the valve I changed the ignitor / flame sensor and it still clicks like crazy what could be causing this to happen and no yellow light flashing it stays on solid
Should the power and gas be shut off prior to doing any of this I have the furnace off so it's not trying to run but dont want to take anything apart until I know I'm not going to blow anything up lol
Hello and thank you for the video. I have the colemen 7956-856 The pilot lite on this one just stays on all the time. I can not get it to come on the pilot lite will stay on but will not not turn the heater on it will try to light but will not.Thank you for any help.
@@jmc6000 Thank you for you help. I had a HVAC guy come look at it and he told me that the I need a new Gas valve so I asked him how much he told me $350.00 for the gas valve and installation if I had him do it I would of paid total come out $150.00 so $ 500.00 and tax. Thank you for helping god bless you jmc6000
@@jmc6000 I needed one today and got lucky, a local heating service sold me a new flame sensor for 60 bucks! Thank you for this video and all the comments!
My gas line comes in from the left side and is rigid. Meaning i won't be able to move the gas valve out of the way to remove the plate. This sucks. Because we're dealing with gas and for safety reasons I'll have to hire a certified tech. 😢
TAL Brothers Four flashes does mean lockout due to failed ignition and I would 1st check to make sure your hot surface is working and getting red hot during the ignition process and go from there.
I'm an hvac service tech with 15 years experience. Do not attempt to clean a hot surface igniter, they are fragile and will break. You will be better off buying a new igniter, they cost about $20 dollars
Thank you! Because of your video, I was able to replace the ignitor and we now have heat! It is 51 degrees in the house with tonight's temp being 26 so you saved us from a very, very cold night. Please keep those video's on self-repairing your furnace coming as it saved me from becoming very cold as I don't have the means to afford a repair company and the man who usually does the repairs for me is gone for 2 weeks. You are a true life saver in my case!
I've been having that issue for over a year, and finally I think you helped me solve it. I'll try cleaning it first, then if that doesn't fix it, I'll get a new ignitor. Thanks so much!
First below freezing night of this fall, and our furnace stopped working. Next day we used your video as a guide. We managed to replace a burned out igniter and save about $300 in repair costs. Kudos to you.
+Andrew Zigler Very good to hear!
You're the best! If you were my neighbor you'd have a case of beer on your porch right now! Because of your tutorial I discovered that the "amateurs" who replaced my igniter (back in 2015!!!) used the incorrect one (a spiral type) that didn't double as a sensor. As a result, I too was getting the weak flame flashes for years. Little did I know the furnace was going on and off due to weak flame and would shut off. Thanks to your vid I saw the type I actually needed and purchased it on line for $40 and replaced it in ten mins. Boom, works great and yellow light stays on solid. I'm not mechanical at all so your vid was such a help. Thanks so much brother!!
So glad you made this video! it's negative 8 here fills like negative 36 with the wind. My furnace bin doing it but didn't think anything of it then it just got worse and of all nights tonight. Thank you so much for your video We would of had to leave and go stay somewhere else if it wasn't for your video. 👍👍
Thanks a lot my friend ,we’re living right now on ours sweet and beautiful mobile home, the furnace had a problem ,(red light flashing 4 times ) so clean igniter,the thing where is coming out gas blocked like white spider webs,so clean up ,put it back everything and works awesome .your video help a lot thanks again
I understand that the shaking camera is you trying to place it so we get a good view of what you are doing. I'm grateful you make these videos and don't understand why people don't just find a different one to watch if they don't like the one that's on. Thank you for caring about getting us a good view because when you haven't done this before it's nice to see exactly where the part is and how to get to it. Hadn't read other comments before the first post which is why this is later.
Thank you so much! I have been looking for the flame sensor for days, no furnace and was told that was most likely the problem, but didn't realize the ignitor and sensor were one. I also didn't know where it was and had already removed the screws but decided against removing the plate until I knew more about what I was doing. I now feel confident about cleaning the ignitor/sensor. Thank you again, it is a great video showing a novice how to do a simple, after you learn what to do, fix!!
Worked like a charm!!! About 17 months ago I replaced the igniter because it was shot, even tried cleaning it but no go. This time when the furnace stopped working, I found this video again, which I booked marked using Pocket, you got to get Pocket because it's awesome then I pulled out the igniter and it had some white oxidation on it. I used the steel wool and cleaned off the igniter thoroughly and the other parts that the flame blows onto, wherever I saw rust or oxidation on any metal, I cleaned it with steel wool. Even found a black area inside the combustion chamber that I cleaned with steel wool. Be sure to use blue non latex gloves so you don't touch the ceramic. If you touch the ceramic with your fingers it will crack. After all that it works great, flame is nice and blue (when you peek in the hole) which is what you want because a blue flame is hotter than a yellow flame so it will heat your home more efficiently. Thanks man you save me tons of money twice. The local boys said it would cost around $600 to fix. Thank God for UA-cam!
Will now fix an elderly gentleman's heater as his will not light at all nor does the igniter glow. It has red led flashing 4X indicating lock out due to failed ignition.
Thanks a bunch!!!
Your camera shaking is not good but your information is priceless, thank you. You helped me fix my furnace problem
At the most critical spot his camera was so close you couldn't see what was to be cleaned. Smh appreciate the attempt but man. He had ro of watched this before posting.
Great YT - But > Two things.
ONE - on many to most N. Gas to LP (propane) conversions you have to change more then just the Orfice, depending on the gas valve because LP operates at a higher pressure. You need to research your if your unit needs a conversion kits which most include a piece to switch out on the gas valve, plus the Orifce and some kits with other parts also. Fewer do - yes - just need to change the Orfice.
TWO - on cleaning the igniter - beware they are extremely fragile so be so gentle and slow - BUT - to not waste your time before attempting to clean igniter buy a 10-15 dollar multimeter (you'll end up using it alot - just to check batteries) set it to the lowest OHM setting and push your needle testing probes into each side of the plug some one else is holding cause it takes two hands for most if it reads more then 75 ohms it needs to be replaced. Don't buy local before checking Amazon because of local insane mark-ups. Example an igniter on Amazon for 18-21 dollars often goes for $45 to higher (except to licensed techs which you likely are not).
Thanks for the video! This morning I thought it felt a little cool in the house. My thermostat was 3* cooler than my desired temp. My hot surface ignitor was glowing and you could hear the gas valve click but it took a couple times before it actually came on. My yellow LED was flashing at that point meaning it was sensing a weak flame (flame is good) so flame sensor needs cleaned/replaced. I'm going to clean this one but order one for when this one goes out completely. Thanks again your video was a big help and could potentially save someone some $.
I want to say a huge thank you for giving me the info I needed to take my furnace apart. I wasn't sure what to expect if I took the cover off back of the gas valve but your video showed my exactly what to expect. Mine is a bit newer because the igniter is a coiled affair but that was not my problem. What I did find though was that bugs had built a nest inside of the fitting that the gas orifice screws into. The part that connects the gas valve to the actual furnace. Once I cleaned that out the flame was robust once again and the flashing yellow LED stopped. Yippee! Thanks again.
Thank you for a very informative video!
Saved me a frozen house and a service call!
Thank you for the informative video. It would take me a while otherwise to figure out that igniter and flame sensor is the same thing on this furnace. It is -35C today and it is Christmas Day, so getting the heating fixed was quite a victory.
For anyone attempting this, it does work even if you think it doesnt look dirty or corroded. Try it anyway. But wear gloves and try not to touch it. Any oils from your fingers will interfere
Thank you. Had service out here a couple times adn it still acts up. I had a ignitor on the water heater in my old house, and I would reach in with some steel wool and clean it on occasion. I KNEW in my gut that was the issue here, but deferred, found your video which shows how to open the puppy up to get at it. It's running now, but I will get in there and clean it when it cools down. Gotta love UA-cam!
Thanks, John. Am about to order my new house and thought to investigate the furnace, Intertherm M7. I saw there were complaints about the igniter/flame detector. Had reservations about the buy until seeing your video. Now that I can see it is a simple fix when the time comes, Im no longer concerned and am ready to make the buy.
Make sure you have spare igniters on hand , I always use the universe ones
Thanks man. I was scared because mine was a old Coleman furnace in my mobile home but looked very similar to yours. Your video gave me the confidence I needed...[well your video and 20 degree nights] and since the furnace was having the same symptoms as yours like coming on and shutting down, flashing 1 time or 2 times or 3 times or no times, so I went ahead and did it remembering everything you showed. To my surprise there was a flame rod sensor in there to along with the igniter but no prob I cleaned em both up with some steel wool and put it back together.... Success!!! Running great. Thankyou again for making this. Your very good at it. Love the "how simple it is" attitude and today is December 23, the eve of Christmas eve so MERRY CHRISTMAS and have a HAPPY NEW YEAR.(Instead of paying a furnace guy now I can buy my sweetie something nice for Christmas} So actually when you think about it your our Santa Claus and i'm sure she will be thanking you to.bye Happy Holidays
What s blessing to hear, have a merry Christmas and a glorious new year!
THANK FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY WALLET. Two days before turkey day and your vid show up!! Thanks again AND BE BLESSED MAN.
This video is perfect! Not sure if I have this specific model, as mine is equipped with space below for an AC setup, but its layout is identical.
I have run into many issues with my Intertherm furnace. From impossible to find parts (according to past repair claims) to undesirable heat output in the past. This winter I have run into the sporadic clicking of the gas valve opening and closing even though it shows a very normal/optimal flame. Sometimes it clicks open once, sometimes a few times rhythmically and sometimes it has a rather erratic rhythm opening and closing multiple times before the blower turns on. If anything in my house is possessed it has been this furnace unit.
I had the flame sensor replaced about 3 years ago (see impossible to find part) and this video has helped me lock it down to most likely needing a cleaning. I am open to suggestion though if you think it could be a faulty valve since it tends to run open/close movements at rhythmic/erratic retry intervals, it decides a different approach each time it fires up, haha. Once it quits clicking though it is on steady and never clicks during blower operation. I have noticed though that the burner cuts out about 1 minute before the blower fan stops, I hope this is normal operation. Oh and to be long winded about this comment, my furnace likes to kick on a lot. Like every 15-20 minutes when really cold. Could just be the nature of this beast trying to maintain 70 but seems to be excessive cycling... or my house has a huge heat leak somewhere.
I believe that when they replaced the flame sensor they cut the connection clip and have since used wire nuts to complete the connection. This leads me to believe that they used a different model sensor than OEM, will mark wires to ensure proper polarity just in case, thank you very much for this explanation!
Repair clinic has all the information you need for the m1m furnace , central air attached like mine which is a Miller unit !
You're very good at explaining the process. I hope this is my problem.
You just saved me an expensive service call and repair.
Thanks for sharing! Hubby will be attempting this cleaning tomorrow! Gotta love You Tube. We fix just about everything ourselves!
Great video do you know how to set and adjust the gas pressure on the valve?
The pressure is set from the factory with no way for adjustment
Thank you for this awesome perfect demo video... To keep it short I'll just ask my question... What type of cleaner did you say to use to clean it with?
None! Only use steel wool
O ok awesome thank you so much for your video 8 yrs later and it's still helping ppl lol
Super informative and helpful - exactly the 'how-to' we were needing. Thank you!
The one step i would add to your procedure and it's a safety precautionary step. I would turn that manual shut off gas valve on supply line to the closed position. Eliminate all possible chances of a gas release while you have the furnance gas valve removed. Safety First.
I was curious about that. Also, does the power need to be shut off too?
@ all energy sources that could pose a danger while servicing any type of equipment should be isolated or at least powered down, so yes electric should be off as well.
@darrenw.5237 so do I just turn the off switch off on the furnace, or should I shut it down from the electrical box? I know I sound pretty ignorant, but it seems like I have seen two videos where it didn't look like the person shut the gas off or thepower
@ Chris, just so we are clear. I’m not trying to discredit anyone on doing their own projects, I’m merely pointing out the safety hazards that could be encountered in taking on these home projects. Now as far as where you should isolate power is a matter of personal comfort and also what else is happening around them. I would say if there is no one else in immediate area that could accidentally turn the power on by the switch or switch is not located in a spot where it could get accidentally bumped on say by yourself while working in there, then by all means just turn power off at switch. Now if there is a chance of the reversals of what I just stated, extra people around, etc etc then personally myself for the time it takes i would shut the breaker off as well then that way you are double protected. In the end, it’s all about working safely and how much one values life. These videos you refer to, yes they may do it without the precautions and yes it can be done but all it’s going to take is one unexpected incident to happen. And when that incident does happen, hopefully for their sake it will not be fatal. Hope that helps.
@darrenw.5237 thanks so much. I appreciate you being kind enough to answer this. I had someone over earlier and they thought it just needed to be reset. And I saw a flame and thought that was it. But after they left, my wife realized it was blowing cold air and I saw the flame coming on then going out. Everyone in my home is complaining, wife and children, so I thought I would try to do what looks like a simple fix since no one can help till tomorrow. And I am very nervous messing around with a gas heater, but am trying to take a calculated risk.
Much appreciated.
finally, this answers my problem!
Thhat was my question, was thbe ignitor doubling as the flame sensor!? Thanks, you cleared that up for me, mine looks more like a steel spring wrapped around ceramic, but probably a different model year. Thanks again
That is a replacement but the factory one is the one in my video and should be replaced with the proper one asap!
Thanks for posting !
My yellow light flashes but stops after it runs awhile? Tech said fine something with cold ground? I think he BSing me but still works fine though.
Great Video, I am replacing the hot surface ignitor in the same furnace that you have in this video. Unfortunately, I did not pay close attention to the placement of the old one when I took it off the burner. The limited directions say the ignitor should be in line with the right edge of the left burner and located approximately 1/8 " from the burner. Would you be able to give more details I cant quite see the placement of yours in the video. Thank you
So after cleaning this, how do you light the pilot back on? Thank you.
My furnace still works but the amber light blinks saying weak flame. i guess i will try cleaning it. It got replaced like 3 yrs ago. Is the ignitor the same as "flame sensor"?
I installed new igniter it is brighter . Still clicks twice but doesn't lock 🔐 out or go for a retry . Light is solid. Always does the click before the solid yellow. They use to use a large flat m style . Worked on 100's of these but not with this style of igniter. Hope this helps someone.
Oh I guess I should have watched this one too. I will take it apart again and clean the igniter
Thank you so much this probably will save me a thousand dollars.
I am having trouble finding any videos about the replacement filter of this furnace, I know they are supposed to be washable, but mine was actually just laying in my furnace and I don’t see any. Clips or anything to hold it in place It is this exact furnace. Do you have a video on that or any information?
The filter in usually located in the furnace front cover held in by a metal rid of some sort
Hey, just got sent here by a forum. I realize this is an 8 year old video but here’s a long shot hoping you still see this.
I have changed the igniter/sensor for a new one and I am still getting the clicking at the valve. Any ideas on why it would still be doing it after a replacement with a new one?
Make sure there is gas flowing and there is no obstruction in the assembly
Hi. This just may be the same furnace I have in a mobile home. We may have this very problem. However, we have a weird issue where if we leave the cover off the furnace (no filter or cover) and leave the louvered door way open, the furnace runs better. Would this still be that sensor that would cause that. Also, when this problem was first occurring, when I went to change the furnace filter to see if that would fix the problem, I was very surprised at just how warm the cover and just everything was at the furnace area. That part kind of scares me. Can having just a corroded sensor cause all those problems too, assuming everything is clean and there are no blockages? Thank you for your time and the making of the video.
Re Lief A bad sensor could cause the issue but highly unlikely. With sensors they either work or they don't type of a thing.
We had the same issue, where it seemed to run better if the cover was off. The blower motor was also warmer to the touch, and it ended up being a failing circuit board. Once we replaced that, the furnace ran great again. We first tried replacing the blower motor, thinking that was the problem, but the problem continued, and that is when we replaced the circuit panel
it's called The Flame is not being rectified. the igniter can be good enough to light the flame initially but not rectify or sense the flame and will shut off replace the igniter.
I want to add to my comment. my heater when it is turned on to heat it just clicks and thats it will keep a pilot lite and the AC works good thank you for any help
jmc6000 hi, thx for the vid. I bought an ignitor thx to your vid but the last guy to work on took the screws holding the plate on the heater. Plz tell me are 5/16 head screws sheet metal screws or are they threaded to fit threads on the heater?
Yes they are run of the mill sheet metal screws nothing fancy about them.
@@jmc6000 Thank you. Again your very helpful. I can now continue.
I have same furnace and its has 4 light code failed ignition. I dont see any flame coming out or ignitor lighting up. I pulled ignitor and its black on end and is the spiraled up kind. I'm assuming it's bad I'm going to replace it because when testing it for ohms I got no reading. The furnace just keeps clicking power board relays. I had the fan replaced last year and the pressure switch.
After installing a new igniter and if it still does not lit up then you might need a new control board. Those control boards are not the most reliable
That worked. thanks, that was an easy fix for a change.
Question: My furnace Heats up but the blower will not switch on to circulate the hot air. Do you know Any troubleshooting for that?
Sounds like a bad capacitor on the blower
@@jmc6000 or blower relay or fan switch if it's older
Hey jmc, you are great, but I do have a kind of different problem< is like the heating temperature isn't reaching the correct degrees therefore the boiler have to kick in too often , I don't know if is a solution, or I may need more insulation in my house, I hope you can help me Thanks very much. Wilfrido from Moonachie NJ
First I would make sure the gas inlet going into the fire box is free from obstruction and second get another thermostat that is NOT a Honeywell
@@jmc6000 thank you man I will try that
I have the same model but the red light flashes 4 times it says it’s locked out can this problem be related
My furnace was doing the same clicking sound from the valve I changed the ignitor / flame sensor and it still clicks like crazy what could be causing this to happen and no yellow light flashing it stays on solid
Sounds like the control board is started to go and not sending constant power to the gas valve
Can you please help out.... I’m trying to light my pilot nothing will light up.
Should the power and gas be shut off prior to doing any of this I have the furnace off so it's not trying to run but dont want to take anything apart until I know I'm not going to blow anything up lol
You can turn off the power before working on it for sure
Mine is just like yours not trying to run just has the red light on
Mine doesn't really look dirty. The end of it does look burned though. Probably need a new one huh?
Didn't need a new one. It worked! Ty. It didn't even really look dirty to me just some faint white marks on it. But they came off and now it works
Hello and thank you for the video. I have the colemen 7956-856 The pilot lite on this one just stays on all the time. I can not get it to come on the pilot lite will stay on but will not not turn the heater on it will try to light but will not.Thank you for any help.
Sounds like you have an issue with the gas valve not opening or an obstruction in the passage from the valve to the tip where the pilot light is.
@@jmc6000 Thank you for you help. I had a HVAC guy come look at it and he told me that the I need a new Gas valve so I asked him how much he told me $350.00 for the gas valve and installation if I had him do it I would of paid total come out $150.00 so $ 500.00 and tax. Thank you for helping god bless you jmc6000
Where would you purchase a replacement flame sensor or hot surface igniter?
Amazon is where I have purchased them in the past.
@@jmc6000 I needed one today and got lucky, a local heating service sold me a new flame sensor for 60 bucks! Thank you for this video and all the comments!
@@freshmcdeath6458 I got mine thru Home Depot online $30.
Would this cause the furnace to blow cold air and not hot?
If the hot surface igniter is not working it would cause the furnace to blow cold air
Does this furnace have a filter ? I have the same one and there is not one on mine.
Yes they do have a filter and it is located in the door.
How I fix a open pressure switch?
You have to clear the vacuum lines going to the pressure switch
Thanks for the video!!
What if I clean the flame sensor off and still get the flashing yellow light?
That is normal
ANOTHER GOOD VIDEO.
My gas line comes in from the left side and is rigid. Meaning i won't be able to move the gas valve out of the way to remove the plate. This sucks. Because we're dealing with gas and for safety reasons I'll have to hire a certified tech. 😢
hi hey I have the same m1m and I have four flashes what is the mean ??? fail ignition?? how can I fix it?? thanks
TAL Brothers Four flashes does mean lockout due to failed ignition and I would 1st check to make sure your hot surface is working and getting red hot during the ignition process and go from there.
@@jmc6000 , bahaha seriously ? 4 flashes on the m1m is open circuit , I will bet $ 25.00 on the pressure switch ! Put the money up
where is the pressure switch i have 4 flashes
It says right on the front of my m1m that 4 flashes is failed ignition.
To bad that NORDYNE doesn’t update it to flame ROD safety. It’s better than a HSI flame sense.
This is a 2017 mobile home so furnace is probably a 2016 and I have four flashes any help please???
I have the same problem, have you solved the situation? I can seem to fix it
Same here
My Nordyne turns off after 10 minutes of use. Any Suggestions
KoolPaul Chillz Does it give any codes when it happens?
It eventually after three four tries just dies out, but the yellow light does take awhile to start up
Very Helpful Thanks....
I'm an hvac service tech with 15 years experience. Do not attempt to clean a hot surface igniter, they are fragile and will break. You will be better off buying a new igniter, they cost about $20 dollars
Right, just put a new on.
So there’s no flame sensor that proves flame
There is and it is the hot surface ignitor that dubbes as a flame sensor.
My Nordyne furnace won't ignite.. just fan blowing
Look to see if it is throwing any trouble codes
Do not clean an igniter. Replace it. Better yet call a pro so we can inspect everything for your safety
Jeff Blanton Sometimes a replacement is not readily available. It is better to do this then be left in the middle of winter with no heat.
Jeff Blanton -- Agreed. He should put a new one on. Keep a spare new one on hand too.
This is an igniter...you should NOT being touching or cleaning this part. DO NOT do this you will ruin the part
It is not just an igniter but also the flame sensor as well and untill a new can be purchased this can work in a pinch