I just sat through a 10 min + video about fuel efficiency. Why? Because it was well made, well structured, interesting and clearly delivered. Nice one mate!
It may sound kind of stupid, but you're teaching an old dog some new tricks. Your manner of delivery is honest, open, friendly, and non condescending. Well done young feller. After nearly a life time of riding, I find myself watching your shows, applying some of your insights, and get even more enjoyable rides as a result. Well done young sir.
He's the one making me want to ride, same with Revzilla, meanwhile Squid Tips makes me never want to ride because he's always so pissed at cars, insinuating an Us vs Them mentality and that to ride, I must push an anti-car agenda
Seriously, I think Ryan is the only guy on Earth who could sell me a tank bag with the argument for better fuel efficiency being the main selling point.. I wonder if he realizes his own genius
I wanna see the writing team. Don't doubt ryan's comedic and informative ability. But he has said many times that it's a team. LET US SEE THE TEAM. camera pans It's a room of ryan clones.
Cheap bastards... KLR owners. Really Ryan?! You better hope that I never run into you in Vancouver. Cause if I do... I'll have to stop and tell you how awesome the channel is and how I'm a huge fan.
@@EuFaloDeCarro oh, believe me. if you're someone who's into motorcycles and has been on youtube for a while for intellectual motorcycle vids, there's a 99% chance of you watching Ryan's vids. If you're into squidding, on the other hand.. :v
I changed the sprockets on my F800GS to +2 front sprocket and -1 rear, sits about 600rpm lower at cruising speed which cuts the vibrations way down. That alone made it worth it, even without being able to get 220 miles out of a tank (non-adventure)!
What!!! I ride a KLR. Listen here Joffrey. I'm not a cheap bastard. I didn't just spend all day hacking foam out of the stock seat to lower the ride height because I didn't want to pay for the appropriate suspension. Ok, well maybe I did. BUUUUUUUTTT I did B-U-Y the hacksaw...Welllll I bought the blade because I didn't want to spend the money on buying the handle as well. AHA, I've got it. I spent my hard earned dollar bills on the staple gun I needed. Then again, I did keep the packaging in perfect condition so I can get a refund when I take it back. Oh god...I'm a cheap, penny-pinching KLR rider. Does anyone have a GS there looking to get rid off? Second hand...cos...you know. As always, awesome video mate. Except for the KLR crack. *Wanders off grumbling in the cheapest way possible.
@@HotRodseventy7 I paused the video for this same reason! Sometimes I miss my KLR, but then when its mid winter and I fire up the fuel injected bike, I don't..
Also, for those heavier folks out there, every pound you loose, is a pound less for your bike to haul. Doesn’t matter as much for cars, but it’s a noticeable difference, especially on smaller bikes. Another added bonus is that you’ll be in better shape.
@@piayarider7542 LOL, wow I didn't even see that.. It's because he didn't actually reply to the bloke, to me it looked like he was calling me another millenial monster. Rodrigo! You have my apologies for my mistake :O Sorry!!!!
"We actually give a shit saving gas on a motorcycle" Man i love motorcycles but i also live in Portugal and i pay $1.86 PER LITER. Off course i care about saving gas. Great video again...
I have a neighbor that owns an old Honda 1000r and he rides it super low RPMs even on the road, I've traveled with him ( on my own bike, a 250cc) and he always run's it like that, except that time when we were on a race track. Damn the thing did a Hudson hornet scene when it started really going, its an amazing bike
Good tips for anyone that wants to take their bike on a long trip where increasing the range of your full tank can mean the difference between arriving to your destination on schedule, and pushing your bike down the side of the road to the nearest gas station.
My Vrod Muscle does 37 miles per gallon if I drive it like an old lady lol .... super boring if u dont smack the throttle with lots of torque to make the tire screech :D
1) Acceleration Sense: Where possible time your approaches to avoid standing starts. 2) Short-shift: Use more throttle to less RPM before upshifts. 3) Draft: Take advantage of large vehicles close to your desired speed. Leave reaction space but still within the moving eddys for reduced drag benefit.
Yeah , I do that. Also, Using low rpm in top gears gives you mileage but make engine fill with unburden fuel deposit. use fuel additives or you can burn them to a limit by Italian tuneup.
Some engines doesn't like low rpm. I used to do that just to save gas but my mechanic screamed at me for doing that. He said some engines can take it and some engines don't. If you have a motor that has a huge torque low end then by all means but short shifting a 600cc 17k reving bike is gonna hurt it. Im a harley guy and I bought cbr600rr just for shits and giggle so i adopted my mannerisms of really short shifting my bike. Hell, in my harley i could slowly takeoff without even revving and immediately shift to 2nd, then 3rd, then 4th then 5th... All without revving past 1100rpm as long as the road is not in a incline. I borrowed an re interceptor 650 and i can feel that bike doesn't like shifting below 2500 specially if i have a pillion rider.
You want to lose major weight off your motorcycle? Switch to a lithium iron phosphate battery. I saved 10 full pounds compared to the OEM. 10 POUNDS! And it is a more powerful battery.
@@JensEskildsen is the lithium battery move expensive than OEM? Yes it is. Does it last 2 or 3 times longer than OEM? Yes it does. Does a 10 pound lighter bike save you gas every ride? Yes it does. Is it worth the cost after all things are considered? That is up to you. For me it is totally worth it.
@@roythearcher really? They work fine for me in Canada and I ride all winter. I know guys who put them in their snowmobiles and they have no complaints. The cold has never been an issue IRL.
Fuel hauler nerd here. You'll note the labels say "*may* contain upto 10% ethanol" it's not for sure and has to be there even if the station buys ethanol free gas since the truck could have delivered e10 previous to that load. Another note is refineries and fuel terminals typically don't produce an actual "Mid-Grade" gasoline anymore and thus anything sold in between regular and premium is a mix of the two done at the pump. You'll see the fills at a station are colour coded. White is regular, red is premium and yellow is diesel. So if you're at a station with ethanol free premium and you buy 89 you have a 5%(ideally) ethanol content. You can check pump gas for ethanol by putting a small amount of water in a water bottle and marking the level. Then add gas and shake. Water and gasoline do not mix however ethanol is hygroscopic like brake fluid meaning it absorbs water. When you shake the mixture the water will strip the ethanol from the gas and mix with it. After shaking let it settle and note the water level vs the line.
Chevron in bc canada 94oct shows ethanol free, same with shell 91 v power ethanol free. Both are 0 ethanol. I use 94 in pre much whatever, bikes dont like ethanol either
wow that has got to be one of the most informative youtube comment's I've ever read. Any estimates on how long all the plastic bits in carbs last with 5% ethanol? I do make sure the carbs are dry and clean before storing but other than that I'm kind of just hoping they hold together
Ethanol only eats certain rubbers. I forget which ones, but most aftermarket rubber parts for all types of vehicles are ethanol safe. The real pain in the ass is that ethanol does not burn as well as gasoline. E10 fuel reduces mpg's by 5-10%.
In many third-world countries I've driven through, I've often been recommended to buy "premium" gas even if my bike doesn't require it. Many of these countries also only have two levels of unleaded - no mid-grade. I figure this is for one or more of the following reasons: 1. The premium is simply made at a higher standard and in a third-world country you might worry that the lower grade (which is sold at the lowest possible price to serve the overwhelming majority of poor people) is made BELOW standards. 2. The premium might not have (as much?) ethanol. 3. It's just the grown-up version of the useless elementary-school myth that more octane makes you go faster.
Could it be? Original and extremely high quality content on youtube? WOW. seriously, dude, you are amazing. These tips are soooo good and will help everyone that is new or already experienced in riding motorcycles. Subbed.
Excellent vid, I am a KLR owner and I didnt even mind your dig at our overall cheapness...to us its a badge of honour :), but seriously really enjoyed your well organised and structured content. Your delivery as always was excellent as well.
Setting aside the option of simply riding slower the two biggest factors to fuel efficiency I've found are: 1. Aerodynamic drag of big hard saddle bags (on my Tiger 800 or my dad's R1200gs we're talking 45mpg with, versus versus 55mpg without). 2. Limit acceleration and braking. That doesn't mean riding slowly, but simply carrying more speed into and through turns, to avoid having to brake hard into them and having to accelerate hard out of them. Staying in a higher gear helps here as well (lower revs, less acceleration out of turns). We may scoff at the idea of caring about fuel efficiency on a motorcycle, but who here hasn't found themselves a long way from a gas station, say 250 miles into a tank of gas, wondering if you're going to make it.
I was able to hit 75 MPG (U.S.) in my brother's twin spark SV650S. Lots of tucking and *gasp* pulling in the clutch and coasting. It is pretty nice to see 200 miles go by without a fuel light ever coming on. I also had to tape off about 3/4 of the already pretty small radiator just to see 170F water temps(it was 45F outside, which was part of that). I'm hoping to get my own and mod the piss out of it specifically for fuel economy. I'm shooting for 100 MPG.
Lubing the chain should give you better fuel economy, with more power getting to the rear wheel. The friction is very noticeable on lower powered bikes. If only there was an oil sealed chain guard so you could run the chain permanently in oil (similar to a timing chain).
The only reason we have ethanol in our gas is because of corn lobbyists. The amount of emissions from growing the corn, refining the corn, and then burning it is greater than just burning pure gasoline. Plus it cuts in to our food supply, causing food to cost more. Ethanol only makes sense if it comes from sugar cane, like Brazil does.
Yes, sugar cane and sugar beat sourced ethanol makes some sense, although it's still really hard on the engines. One of the annoying things I have to deal with is that the only option for ethanol free gas around here is Spirit and it's only available for the premium gas.
They are working on a GMO based sugar beet that produces insane amounts of sugar when harvest, requires far less water or fertilizers compared to corn. Grows in about half the time, and can be grown in places normally not ideal for crops. The GMO sugar beets are fast becoming the main source for Ethanol production. Soon Ethanol production will outpace other forms of alternative fuels... and hopefully one day soon will become the main source of fuel for the internal combustion engine. With GMO crops not needing the same sort of land to grow, we don't need to worry about taking away the land we need for properly grown food crops. PLUS since 100% Ethanol can run in current engines (with minor modifications), we can use it instead of petroleum based fuels. Humans will need our plastics and other polymers to continue to live. If we can reduce our requirements of fossil fuels, and save the crude oil for production, we can substantially extend our supply. After all if our current rate of consumption continues (which it is only ever increasing at exponential rates), we are going to burn through our available supply of crude oil in about 50 years (BP says 52 years, before we run out).
Brazilian here. Ethanol is not the solution, right now ethanol is more expensive than Gasoline (here) and is by far less efficient (what sucks when you have a tiny fuel tank, like in a bike). We too add ethanol to our gasoline for "green" purposes, and when I said green, i mean politic, but it's not as bad as Europe importing palm oil from Indonesia that is literally deforestating their lands in order to keep with the demand from greener fuel in the developed world. Sugar cane is a crop that requires a lot of water to proper grow, right now we do have that water to dispose, but who knows what the future will be.
@@guilhermerichter7049 Guess you missed the part of GMO sugar beets. Which require far less water them corn to grow. Plus due to the way it has been engineered, it can grow in places other crops would not. The efficiency of 100% ethanol fuel is a fault of current engine tech, designed to run on Petroleum based fuels. This is easily solved with some minor "tweaks" to the ICE. Point is, the world as we sit now has about 50 years of crude oil left, we have no choice but to seek alternative fuels.
@@JJ_ExMachina Yeah m8. I just don't mentioned the GMO sugar beats because i don't know shit about it. But in my humble opinion, the future is electric...
@@jonboy602 Aluminium lasts pretty much as long as the steel does but requires more frequent maintanence. Having a slack chain would affect it during sudden acceleration, since it's not as brittle as the latter one.
Renthal (brand) Sprockets are super light in comparison to standard Steel sprockets. The make a pretty good claim about their longevity. I have Renthal on my Fireblade. Maybe check them out.
One of the best “ cruise control “ devices I have ever used on a motorcycle and I’ve been using them since 1967 is free. An elastic band wrapped on the handle bar between the grip and the right hand switch and front brake lever block clamped to the handle bar. It provides enough friction to prevent the throttle from rolling back on its own even when you take your hand off the grip but yet is easy to roll back the throttle as you would normally when slowing and your wallet hasn’t felt a pinch. When one elastic wears out as they tend to do over time simply replace the elastic that was used to hold a bunch of carrots together from your grocery store. Free. It’s worked for me for over 50 years on a dozen bikes.
Sure! Motorcycle suspension is most stable when loaded under acceleration or deceleration. Even when cruising at a constant speed, the force of the engine working against gravity or wind resistance is enough to make the motorcycle feel planted. But if you coast (i.e. clutch pulled in, or in neutral, "freewheeling") the bike becomes jittery and harder to control. Hope that helps! ~RF9
@@FortNine Thank you for the succinct answer! I can't believe I got a response from the man himself! I'm star struck! Love your channel and your content. I'm always looking forward to your next videos. Keep it up!
@@FortNine Have to disagree with the recommendation for K&Ns etc. These always test higher levels of Silica (that's sand) in oil than STD filters. A STD filter still flows more than enough air when at maximum recommended mileage (or clogging). I'd never put one on a motor that I care about, although I do have one on my race bike - low overall mileage and the minor performance gain is worthwhile in this context. Other than that another very good contribution to knowledge and safety.
Summary: Get more fuel for money: Fill up in the morning / cold weather. Raise the pump hose above the tank to empty the last of the gas out of it. You paid for it already. General: Use only octane ratings your bike is rated for. Don't go higher or lower. Avoid high ethanol fuel. Don't carry more weight than you need to. Maintenance: Check and fix your spark plugs / carbs / injectors / jets / valve clearance. Check and clean or replace your air filter. Keep your tires inflated properly. A few PSI over is OK. A lot over is dangerous. Riding style: Ride at slower speeds. Avoid acceleration and deceleration where possible: accelerate slowly, stop slowly and early. Lane split to maintain speed. Use cruise control / throttle lock. Engine brake rather than using the brakes or coasting in neutral. Ride lower and closer to the bike. Modifications: Remap fuel delivery for better mileage. Get low rolling resistance / stiffer tires. Will decrease grip. Get a lighter sprocket. Get a lighter chain. Will require more maintenance and attention. Change sprockets to lower all RPMs. Less acceleration, maybe higher top speed. Get and use a throttle lock if you don't have one. Gear: Use a tank bag and or tail bag rather than saddle bags / panniers. Wear a full face helmet. Best bang for buck: Sprockets and chain. Ride slow, maintain speed. Keep your air filter clean.
Awesome vid as always. One correction, though -- lifting the fuel hose won't do diddly. The shut-off valve is in the nozzle, so the only gas you'll get is in that short stretch between the pump handle and the tip, and since you're already angled down into the tank you'll get that bit of dribble anyway.
Rule of thumb seems to be for every 13°C/ 25°F drop in intake air temp, octane required drops by 1 full octane rating. Octane needed also drops as you climb higher in elevation. Not a fuel economy thing as such but can save some coin over a year.
Drag is the main factor in fuel economy. Rolling resistance and engine/drive train friction will increase roughly proportionally to an increase in speed and engine rpm, meaning that the related fuel use would be roughly proportional to distance traveled. However, air resistance increases exponentially with an increase in speed. ("air resistance force is approximately proportional to the square of the velocity, v2. In other words, twice the velocity produces four times the force.") That's why top speeds are ultimately limited by available horse power, and that is generally proportional to the amount of fuel being burnt. Rolling resistance aside, for a bike to do 100 mph, it requires 4x the power of doing 50mph and 16x the amount of power to do 25mph. Tuck yourself down over the tank and pull your knees in as much as you like, but if you're worried about actually making that next gas station, slow down!
0:53 I always wondered........If thats true did I just get a tank full of REGULAR when I pushed premium? I miss the days when we had a hose for each grade.
your driving (or, riding in this case) will impact your fuel ecconomy the most, if your heavy on the pedal/throttle you use more, shift early and ride a bit slower, save fuel. Also engien break alot (but dont forget to light up the rear light)
No exhaust needs back pressure, that's the oldest myth ever. The baffles in a muffler slow down reversion waves from the end of the exhaust. If reversion waves reach the valve while it's open then you have poor exhaust flow.
Don’t use TPMS systems. They can fail and bleed all the air out of your tire while you’re riding down the freeway. Chances are your mechanic has heard of this, and my broken shoulder can back it up, too.
the UK is 10th on the fuelprice list, my country, the netherlands, is on number one www.worldatlas.com/articles/european-countries-with-the-most-expensive-fuel.html
Backpressure is always bad, it increases cylinder temperatures lowering the amount of air you can get into the cylinder. On multi cylinder engines with good manifolds it hurts Exhaust scavenging. Basically the better an engine can breathe out the better it can breathe in.
That is only beneficial for maximising power. For fuel economy you actually want a smaller exhaust so it flows more efficiently at lower throttle and revs, and a big exhaust doesn't do that.
If you don't want dirt in your engine, then do not use foam or cotton filters. There is no free lunch with air filtration, because filtration efficiency tracks with flow restriction; which means the more air flow the less filtration efficiency. For off road bikes etc no one cares because the top end has to be replaced soon anyways. For your road bike that you want to last forever, stick with paper filters.
You missed one. Get a front fairing and windshield if there's one to fit your bike. The motorcycle will cut through the air more efficiently and push it out of your way, eliminating the need to hug the gas tank.
Very interesting Video. Is there anyone in India who can help me find the Aluminium Sprocket like the one shown in this Video. I am looking one for a Royal Enfield Himalayan in Western Part of India, Gujarat. Fortnine I love your film making style as well. the split screens and multi character parodies are fun to watch. keep up the marvellous work.
Itchy Boots is a Dutch woman travelling on a Himalayan. Presently she is in Iran. Eight cents a litre. EIGHT CENTS A LITRE. No bloody wonder they keep insisting God is great.
Power commander with wide band o2, 520 chain and aluminum sprocket, lighter after market exhaust, and a bunch of other little things, you know typical upgrades... I saved roughly 30lbs of weight on the bike, and improved (in ECO mode) 10 MPG over stock... SO if I only ever rode in ECO mode, I would recoup my money in roughly 20k miles, or about 2 years, with the miles I ride. BUT since the mods also allow for an improved level of performance over stock, I do NOT ride in "ECO" mode unless I need the range. The original MPG was about 35, with the new maps and "upgraded" parts I can get very close to 50 MPG. SO instead of getting 160 miles out of a tank, I can get closer to 225 miles. For longer rides it is godsend having the ability to improve the millage so drastically, while still being able to have the extra power and performance if I so choose. All by pushing a button and switching maps. The down side of the "ECO" mode, is a huge lose in power, and very "boring" engine performance. Of course, by hitting that same button I can get "full power" mode, with about 140 HP on tap... It's can be very exciting... Of course that comes at a sacrifice of getting much lower fuel millage...
@@Roy_Godiksen Fair enough, and easy to misinterpret. Fuel economy refers to the economy of fuel though, meaning distance traveled vs volume of fuel. Most people only really care about this in terms of money saved, since volume of fuel is seen as $/gal, not necessarily gal/tank. So it's understandable that talk of fuel economy is mostly seen as a consideration of total monetary cost of gas, and thus of mileage, not the fuel "cost" of mileage. There are also people who care about fuel usage outside of it's monetary cost, and might not worry too much if they only break even, or even lose a little.
The magic aerodynamic speed for vehicles is ( pardon the lapse in metric conversion) 59 MPH. Air resistance is pretty linear it to that point and motorcycle riders suffer significantly over streamlined cars and trucks simply due to a lack of said streamlining. Above 59 aerodynamic drag is like climbing a ladder even a slight increase in speed has a significant increase in drag and fuel consumption. (Probably the reason Canadian transport trucks have governors limiting their speed to 105 K.)
03:50 Come on Ryan. Tests had proven that a clean disposable air filter works as good as a top dog racing air filter. Performance air filters can only represent some marginal gain in a high HP bike, with tuned ECU.
I live and ride an 800gs in the desert, dry dust all the time. From all the sleuthing I've done and the local Motorrad mechanics I've talked to, compared to paper filters, K&N et al. lets a bit (too much) of that fine particulate matter flow through and is bad for the engine in the long run. That's how you get the power increase, bigger filter pore size, more air flow! But, if you live in Vancouver or someplace with less dust on the regular, you're probably good with a K&N.
Closed loop F.I bikes: (i.e. with lamda sensors) When you are riding for fuel economy, will not make much difference, cause the throttle valve is already blocking most of the air going in. A modern ECU will measure the mixture and adjust Open loop F.I bikes with some sensors (no lamda sensors): IF they have a map sensor (measures atmospheric pressure inside and outside the airbox), will adjust the fuel mixture for less air drawn, although less accurately, so less incoming air is compensated Carbed bikes: Less air will make the mixture richer BUT, fuel is drawn into the cylinder by the vacuum it produces, so less air going in will reduce the fuel sucked in, some carbs have tricks to compensate, some dont
scha0306 depending on if you're referring to isolated testing outside the engine area. Funny thing, during K&N testing they found the vibrations of the engine help trap particulates
@Dustin Nisbet-Jones Also important, and noted in the video is that he wasn't testing how well the filters removed debris from air, just how much power was made.
Some studies have shown that OEM air filters filter better, and after market air filters perform better but do allow larger particle through. The UA-cam channel Project Farm explains this very well.
To be fair, most ethanol blends are usually better than pure gas, as they evaporate better, which in most cases results in higher thermal efficiency. They also deliver slightly higher octane ratings. Both effects are more prominent, when on high loads and especially when on high rpm. The water attracting part can be useful, if used correctly, as it binds water, which won't "harm" anything as long as it is bound. The problems begin, when it is saturated.
Selling an aluminum sprocket with smaller chain without mentioning once that the chain and sprockets life will probably be a third of what it use to be. Amazing seller skill. P.S: if there is one filtrer that you should toss to the garbage bin, it is the K&N. They will let a lot of dirt go inside your engine.
I'm gonna have to disagree with you on the back pressure segment. Your logic is sound and makes sense. However what you forget is that with back pressure comes piston resistance. In the case of a single cylinder or twin cylinder. Back pressure adds the amount of torque required to push the piston down there for slowing the crankshaft spinning(meaning you need more fuel for the same amount of work) If your tune(map) is efficient and set up specifically for your mods then back pressure shouldny affect fuel economy at all if anything it would hurt it. The smaller the engine the worse back pressure is for efficiency. Due to the small size of the rotating parts not having the mass to continue rotating when back pressure is added. Again this is assuming your tune is optimized. Greater flow= greater efficiency (more complete burn thus resulting in more power with the added benifits of requiring less fuel for the same power) but the tune has to be professionally calibrated for it. The elevation, density altitude, fuel grade, fuel and engine timing, spark timing, cam/crank timing, intake temp, short term/long term fuel trim, engine temp ect all go into making the engine run efficiently for the givin conditions of that specific time. Hope this makes sense as him saying you need back pressure for fuel efficiency is 100% incorrect
Or just buy a ninja 250. I get a whopping 30 mpg maybe it's cause it's revving at 12,000 rpm on the highway cause I'm stupid enough to do 100mph on a 250🤷♂️
Back pressure is only necessary (and useful) in a 2 stroke engine, where the combustion stroke is shorter and the fuel (being less atomized) burns slower. On a 4 stroke engine it's unnecessary and will cost you power and efficiency. The myth that 4 stroke engines need back pressure comes from people who put huge 3" exhausts on their vehicles and lose power. This happens because of the venturi effect, gasses flow slower in a wider pipe and faster in a narrower one (until restricted by back pressure), that faster flow in a correctly sized pipe helps draw out the exhaust gasses.
Knightmare I disconnected the exhaust after the last catalytic converter on my v6 accord for a day. It lost a shitload of power down low. Didn’t change the pipe size or anything, but those 3 mufflers which were bypassed DO help. On my 4 cylinder CBR250, I changed out the original muffler for a long glasspack. Again, didn’t change pipe diameters before the muffler, and I did rejet it richer, but it lost low end power and fuel economy. Backpressure does help if done correctly, so stop parroting engineering explained with his “stop saying engines need backpressure” video. Is your engine going to blow up without backpressure? No, but it will affect how it runs.
Exactly and wrapping/ceramic coating, will promote this, by the principle of energy conservation of the flow, do to preventing wasting it, into dissipated heat. Back pressure on a 4t is like saying that 2 valves works better than 4. Engine efficiency is like not "how much water flows, at a given mass, it's how far away the jet is landing". Back pressure is like adding a screen in front of it. Two valves engines have better torque on the lower rpm range, so longer gearing is more suitable. That's what I'm after myself, longer gearing, for lower rpm coasting. I'm not interested in faster acceleration, my bike has only 11hp...
Only two I'd disagree with, the tap is in the hand part of a fuel pump. So no fuel is released from the hose if you elevate it. Also coasting in gear will have engine braking so will pull up in less distance than coasting in neutral. So no gain there.
Hi, is it necessary to do wheel balancing after installing an external TPMS? i am worried that the additional unsprung weight might cause wheel wobble, I ride a light weight sport tourer...Thanks!
On2Wheels According to TireGard, no. These ones are only a few grams each, so not enough to make a significant unbalance. Beware of internal TPMS systems though - you have to remove the tire to install, which is a pain, and many of them are heavy enough to require rebalancing.
New variable. I have an electric motorcycle. A real one with a licence plate that you ride on the road and keep up with traffic. Figure how body weight affects top speed and acceleration.
S&s carburetors talks alot about how drag pipes cause revererations that actually trap exhaust they put thumb screws at the end of thier drag pipes with some improvements to performance on a dyno.
Try taking the muffler(s) off a four stroke bike or car and come back and tell us what changed. I have done this myself, and found a huge loss in low end power.
whats hes mean by coasting kills? i usually pull up to a red light/ end my splitting to the front by pulling in the clutch or sometimes at neutral when i feel safe or the light will be long.
You don't get much more gas, but I wouldn't call it useless. I knew a guy a few years ago who kept his little dual sport going by draining gas pump hoses at night. But he was incredibly cheep and saw no problem spending an hour or two to steal a half tank of gas. Nobody liked him.
Yeah the nozzle actually needs the pressure from the turbine or fuel pump to work. All the trigger does is 'let' the valve open once the pressure is there.
It's the editing. By letting the takes go longer than normal they created an interesting little gag but also sacrificed the usual snappy concise passing we are all so fond of weather we and aware of it or not.
@@MeowyBrigade Au contraire. Ryan F9 takes pride in taking seemingly dull topics (e.g. helmet safety) into interesting pieces. This is his major skill.
Legend has it, there was a man who took all the mods and never filled his tank again.
I heard that he had to actually remove gas from time to time.😉
I did all those mods Twice and now my bike fills it's self up.👍
Well there's got to be one, crashing right after filling at the pump is still never filling the tank again
CHUNGUS BIG they fell of and he died and then he got 324.34 mpg, gotta make sacrifices
Legend has it , the smell of gasoline was enough to run the bike
And finally, lose some weight. Less mass, more efficiency
yup, it is the best way x)
Is this Global Cycling Network? "Don't buy upgrades ride upgrades". Works better with bicycles. ;)
So time and reason for that divorce?
Ouch
I was gonna type that and sure enough first comment I see “weight reduction bro” 😂
I just sat through a 10 min + video about fuel efficiency. Why? Because it was well made, well structured, interesting and clearly delivered. Nice one mate!
A video on fuel efficiency for vehicles that routinely break 40 mpg already! Yes, he is that good.
Im 14 and I ride 2 stroke dirt bikes that don’t get good mileage but i don’t care and I have no clue why I’m watching this
i don't even like working on vehicles i just like saving money
I don’t even own a bike and I still watched the whole thing.
I don't even have a motorcycle.
It may sound kind of stupid, but you're teaching an old dog some new tricks. Your manner of delivery is honest, open, friendly, and non condescending. Well done young feller. After nearly a life time of riding, I find myself watching your shows, applying some of your insights, and get even more enjoyable rides as a result. Well done young sir.
He's the one making me want to ride, same with Revzilla, meanwhile Squid Tips makes me never want to ride because he's always so pissed at cars, insinuating an Us vs Them mentality and that to ride, I must push an anti-car agenda
Seriously, I think Ryan is the only guy on Earth who could sell me a tank bag with the argument for better fuel efficiency being the main selling point.. I wonder if he realizes his own genius
Ikr I was like " I have to get that efficiency gas tank pack"lol
@@maxpowell2157 Yup same. Luckily I already have a tank bag, and now I just feel more happy about owning it xD
I'm going to guess, yes..he realizes it; however, he isn't a dick about it which is what makes it great. Creative, funny, accurate, and educational.
I wanna see the writing team. Don't doubt ryan's comedic and informative ability. But he has said many times that it's a team. LET US SEE THE TEAM.
camera pans
It's a room of ryan clones.
True Fact: He used to sell band instruments to small towns in Iowa.
Cheap bastards... KLR owners.
Really Ryan?! You better hope that I never run into you in Vancouver. Cause if I do... I'll have to stop and tell you how awesome the channel is and how I'm a huge fan.
I can't understand why this channel doesn't have well over million subscribers, it's flipping brilliant.
I concur 110 %. Ryan is one of the best UA-camrs on the planet.
Because they make content for riders, mainly in canada, because It is the channel's hq. How many riders there is in canada?
@@EuFaloDeCarro oh, believe me. if you're someone who's into motorcycles and has been on youtube for a while for intellectual motorcycle vids, there's a 99% chance of you watching Ryan's vids. If you're into squidding, on the other hand.. :v
@@piayarider7542 I'm a total squid. Still love Ryan fortnine content. I look forward to getting the notifications
@@EuFaloDeCarro 720,549 in 2017
I changed the sprockets on my F800GS to +2 front sprocket and -1 rear, sits about 600rpm lower at cruising speed which cuts the vibrations way down. That alone made it worth it, even without being able to get 220 miles out of a tank (non-adventure)!
What!!! I ride a KLR. Listen here Joffrey.
I'm not a cheap bastard. I didn't just spend all day hacking foam out of the stock seat to lower the ride height because I didn't want to pay for the appropriate suspension. Ok, well maybe I did. BUUUUUUUTTT I did B-U-Y the hacksaw...Welllll I bought the blade because I didn't want to spend the money on buying the handle as well. AHA, I've got it. I spent my hard earned dollar bills on the staple gun I needed. Then again, I did keep the packaging in perfect condition so I can get a refund when I take it back. Oh god...I'm a cheap, penny-pinching KLR rider. Does anyone have a GS there looking to get rid off? Second hand...cos...you know.
As always, awesome video mate. Except for the KLR crack. *Wanders off grumbling in the cheapest way possible.
@Skodaman2 Ha. Yes! Yeah, I love my KLR.
Don't think you're gonna find a Dynojet fuel controller to work on a KLR lol
@@HotRodseventy7 I paused the video for this same reason! Sometimes I miss my KLR, but then when its mid winter and I fire up the fuel injected bike, I don't..
I have a GS in all I do is hemorrhage money. 😪
@@Thetdubs12 I feel the pain now will be selling my carb bike for FI bike its becoming a little bit frustrating on these 30°F mornings
I care about MPG, more for range than savings.
More range = more fun!!!
I'm looking at fuel bottles. An extra couple liters can get me out of a tight spot.
Its always a good day when FortNine uploads.
Agree
@Counterattack hes joe swanson
Shut up you kripple....
;)
M_S You can’t talk like that to an officer of the law.
Unfortunately, this time he misses the mark as often as he hits it.
Also, for those heavier folks out there, every pound you loose, is a pound less for your bike to haul. Doesn’t matter as much for cars, but it’s a noticeable difference, especially on smaller bikes. Another added bonus is that you’ll be in better shape.
Watch out with the fat guys. You will hurt their McFeelings.
I feel like this entire video is a reference to some tv show or a movie but i'm not understanding it
You and I both.
Another Millennial monster
@@rodrigocastro9323 Another annoying prick. c:
@@Yeldur Rodrigo's replying to the earlier guy named "Another Millennial" for his troll-y reply. Context before replying, please.
@@piayarider7542 LOL, wow I didn't even see that.. It's because he didn't actually reply to the bloke, to me it looked like he was calling me another millenial monster. Rodrigo! You have my apologies for my mistake :O
Sorry!!!!
"We actually give a shit saving gas on a motorcycle"
Man i love motorcycles but i also live in Portugal and i pay $1.86 PER LITER. Off course i care about saving gas.
Great video again...
Or $1.98 if you use the expensive stuff... Roubalheira
Damn I'm paying $2.02 for the cheapest stuff here in Singapore!
Its that much for a gallon here in Texas
the octane 100 is 1.50 USD /liter at hungary
@@1996axon Gas prices in Hungary are just bonkers right now. They are higher than diesel sometimes ffs XD
Yup... buy a 225 HP bike, and then drive it like an old lady... to save fuel... lol
I have a neighbor that owns an old Honda 1000r and he rides it super low RPMs even on the road, I've traveled with him ( on my own bike, a 250cc) and he always run's it like that, except that time when we were on a race track. Damn the thing did a Hudson hornet scene when it started really going, its an amazing bike
Yeah, more fun to ride something slow fast
Good tips for anyone that wants to take their bike on a long trip where increasing the range of your full tank can mean the difference between arriving to your destination on schedule, and pushing your bike down the side of the road to the nearest gas station.
My gixxer 600 never goes past 5k rpm. I get 38 mpg
My Vrod Muscle does 37 miles per gallon if I drive it like an old lady lol .... super boring if u dont smack the throttle with lots of torque to make the tire screech :D
1) Acceleration Sense: Where possible time your approaches to avoid standing starts.
2) Short-shift: Use more throttle to less RPM before upshifts.
3) Draft: Take advantage of large vehicles close to your desired speed. Leave reaction space but still within the moving eddys for reduced drag benefit.
Yeah , I do that. Also, Using low rpm in top gears gives you mileage but make engine fill with unburden fuel deposit. use fuel additives or you can burn them to a limit by Italian tuneup.
Some engines doesn't like low rpm. I used to do that just to save gas but my mechanic screamed at me for doing that. He said some engines can take it and some engines don't. If you have a motor that has a huge torque low end then by all means but short shifting a 600cc 17k reving bike is gonna hurt it. Im a harley guy and I bought cbr600rr just for shits and giggle so i adopted my mannerisms of really short shifting my bike. Hell, in my harley i could slowly takeoff without even revving and immediately shift to 2nd, then 3rd, then 4th then 5th... All without revving past 1100rpm as long as the road is not in a incline. I borrowed an re interceptor 650 and i can feel that bike doesn't like shifting below 2500 specially if i have a pillion rider.
@@r.i.p2464 lugging the engine is always bad, but being in low rpm is fine on almost any engine if you don't lug it.
You want to lose major weight off your motorcycle? Switch to a lithium iron phosphate battery. I saved 10 full pounds compared to the OEM. 10 POUNDS! And it is a more powerful battery.
And it will lighten youre wallet even more!
@@JensEskildsen Also you will lose some weight because of less eating caused by your now lighter wallet! XDXDXDXD
@@JensEskildsen is the lithium battery move expensive than OEM? Yes it is. Does it last 2 or 3 times longer than OEM? Yes it does. Does a 10 pound lighter bike save you gas every ride? Yes it does. Is it worth the cost after all things are considered? That is up to you. For me it is totally worth it.
not good in colder climates though! they don't like low temperatures!
@@roythearcher really? They work fine for me in Canada and I ride all winter. I know guys who put them in their snowmobiles and they have no complaints. The cold has never been an issue IRL.
@1:45 "cheap bastards, KLR owners" 😂😂
Fuel hauler nerd here. You'll note the labels say "*may* contain upto 10% ethanol" it's not for sure and has to be there even if the station buys ethanol free gas since the truck could have delivered e10 previous to that load.
Another note is refineries and fuel terminals typically don't produce an actual "Mid-Grade" gasoline anymore and thus anything sold in between regular and premium is a mix of the two done at the pump. You'll see the fills at a station are colour coded. White is regular, red is premium and yellow is diesel. So if you're at a station with ethanol free premium and you buy 89 you have a 5%(ideally) ethanol content.
You can check pump gas for ethanol by putting a small amount of water in a water bottle and marking the level. Then add gas and shake. Water and gasoline do not mix however ethanol is hygroscopic like brake fluid meaning it absorbs water. When you shake the mixture the water will strip the ethanol from the gas and mix with it. After shaking let it settle and note the water level vs the line.
Chevron in bc canada 94oct shows ethanol free, same with shell 91 v power ethanol free. Both are 0 ethanol. I use 94 in pre much whatever, bikes dont like ethanol either
wow that has got to be one of the most informative youtube comment's I've ever read. Any estimates on how long all the plastic bits in carbs last with 5% ethanol? I do make sure the carbs are dry and clean before storing but other than that I'm kind of just hoping they hold together
Ethanol only eats certain rubbers. I forget which ones, but most aftermarket rubber parts for all types of vehicles are ethanol safe. The real pain in the ass is that ethanol does not burn as well as gasoline. E10 fuel reduces mpg's by 5-10%.
@@conradbielicki774 ethanol will slowly eat away the aluminium of the carb. Watch Project Farm's video on ethanol gas
In many third-world countries I've driven through, I've often been recommended to buy "premium" gas even if my bike doesn't require it. Many of these countries also only have two levels of unleaded - no mid-grade. I figure this is for one or more of the following reasons:
1. The premium is simply made at a higher standard and in a third-world country you might worry that the lower grade (which is sold at the lowest possible price to serve the overwhelming majority of poor people) is made BELOW standards.
2. The premium might not have (as much?) ethanol.
3. It's just the grown-up version of the useless elementary-school myth that more octane makes you go faster.
This video's viewership these days 📈📈📈
*shows EFI fuel tuner*
*Laughs in KLR*
Ahhhhhhhh nuts. ~RF9
Lol
@@blinnbh The KLR is dead
You can tune a carbed bike to run 87. My bikes from the 80s do it great.
@@toki002 FE350 mah boi.
Very convenient for adventure riders and cheap bastards.... KLR owners... HAHAHAHHAHA
(I own a KLR, but that was a solid burn)
Could it be? Original and extremely high quality content on youtube? WOW.
seriously, dude, you are amazing. These tips are soooo good and will help everyone that is new or already experienced in riding motorcycles. Subbed.
He Got Nil Idea bout Air Filters..go watch " Do Performance Air Filters Actually Work ? by ENGINEERING EXPLAINED..
Excellent vid, I am a KLR owner and I didnt even mind your dig at our overall cheapness...to us its a badge of honour :), but seriously really enjoyed your well organised and structured content. Your delivery as always was excellent as well.
Yes, we are cheap b45tards. I ran a KLX250 with road tyres, great mpg. Didn't go off road so didn't need off road tyres.
Setting aside the option of simply riding slower the two biggest factors to fuel efficiency I've found are:
1. Aerodynamic drag of big hard saddle bags (on my Tiger 800 or my dad's R1200gs we're talking 45mpg with, versus versus 55mpg without).
2. Limit acceleration and braking. That doesn't mean riding slowly, but simply carrying more speed into and through turns, to avoid having to brake hard into them and having to accelerate hard out of them. Staying in a higher gear helps here as well (lower revs, less acceleration out of turns).
We may scoff at the idea of caring about fuel efficiency on a motorcycle, but who here hasn't found themselves a long way from a gas station, say 250 miles into a tank of gas, wondering if you're going to make it.
I was able to hit 75 MPG (U.S.) in my brother's twin spark SV650S. Lots of tucking and *gasp* pulling in the clutch and coasting. It is pretty nice to see 200 miles go by without a fuel light ever coming on. I also had to tape off about 3/4 of the already pretty small radiator just to see 170F water temps(it was 45F outside, which was part of that). I'm hoping to get my own and mod the piss out of it specifically for fuel economy. I'm shooting for 100 MPG.
Although not hugely safe, riding behind a truck will shoot up your mpg. The good news is you can still get benefits leaving a safe gap.
0:05 Exactly what I was just about to comment when I heard your first sentence. ;) It's cheap enough and we're it for the ride regardless.
Lubing the chain should give you better fuel economy, with more power getting to the rear wheel.
The friction is very noticeable on lower powered bikes.
If only there was an oil sealed chain guard so you could run the chain permanently in oil (similar to a timing chain).
A sprocket change test for fuel efficiency and results in rpms, top speed etc would be interesting. For example 3 more teeth in the front.
I switched from 500cc to a Honda CB125F and I don't give A ... about fuel anymore
True. I went from 125 to 500 and now I feel stupid.
As an Adventure riding, cheap bastard that owns a KLR, that comment at 1:40 had me rolling in my chair. so true.
The only reason we have ethanol in our gas is because of corn lobbyists. The amount of emissions from growing the corn, refining the corn, and then burning it is greater than just burning pure gasoline. Plus it cuts in to our food supply, causing food to cost more. Ethanol only makes sense if it comes from sugar cane, like Brazil does.
Yes, sugar cane and sugar beat sourced ethanol makes some sense, although it's still really hard on the engines.
One of the annoying things I have to deal with is that the only option for ethanol free gas around here is Spirit and it's only available for the premium gas.
They are working on a GMO based sugar beet that produces insane amounts of sugar when harvest, requires far less water or fertilizers compared to corn. Grows in about half the time, and can be grown in places normally not ideal for crops. The GMO sugar beets are fast becoming the main source for Ethanol production. Soon Ethanol production will outpace other forms of alternative fuels... and hopefully one day soon will become the main source of fuel for the internal combustion engine. With GMO crops not needing the same sort of land to grow, we don't need to worry about taking away the land we need for properly grown food crops. PLUS since 100% Ethanol can run in current engines (with minor modifications), we can use it instead of petroleum based fuels. Humans will need our plastics and other polymers to continue to live. If we can reduce our requirements of fossil fuels, and save the crude oil for production, we can substantially extend our supply. After all if our current rate of consumption continues (which it is only ever increasing at exponential rates), we are going to burn through our available supply of crude oil in about 50 years (BP says 52 years, before we run out).
Brazilian here. Ethanol is not the solution, right now ethanol is more expensive than Gasoline (here) and is by far less efficient (what sucks when you have a tiny fuel tank, like in a bike). We too add ethanol to our gasoline for "green" purposes, and when I said green, i mean politic, but it's not as bad as Europe importing palm oil from Indonesia that is literally deforestating their lands in order to keep with the demand from greener fuel in the developed world.
Sugar cane is a crop that requires a lot of water to proper grow, right now we do have that water to dispose, but who knows what the future will be.
@@guilhermerichter7049 Guess you missed the part of GMO sugar beets. Which require far less water them corn to grow. Plus due to the way it has been engineered, it can grow in places other crops would not. The efficiency of 100% ethanol fuel is a fault of current engine tech, designed to run on Petroleum based fuels. This is easily solved with some minor "tweaks" to the ICE. Point is, the world as we sit now has about 50 years of crude oil left, we have no choice but to seek alternative fuels.
@@JJ_ExMachina Yeah m8. I just don't mentioned the GMO sugar beats because i don't know shit about it. But in my humble opinion, the future is electric...
Interesting...
Now I'm going to disregard all of this and rev my bike hard enough while stationary to produce flames out of the unrestricted pipe...
I love how you play around with the format. This has to be one of my favorite along with the Twilight Zone one
Fuel economy on a motorcycle... 🤣🤣🤣
Something that's worthy of all is the sprocket mod!
So simple yet makes a world of difference.
How long does that alu sprocket last compared to a steel one tho?
Yes that’s my concern, any personal experience switching to aluminum rear sprocket? How much last long compared with the steel one?
@@jonboy602
Aluminium lasts pretty much as long as the steel does but requires more frequent maintanence.
Having a slack chain would affect it during sudden acceleration, since it's not as brittle as the latter one.
@@ramiropupo8034
I haven't tried it myself, but the ones who have switched were rather positive about it.
Renthal (brand) Sprockets are super light in comparison to standard Steel sprockets. The make a pretty good claim about their longevity. I have Renthal on my Fireblade. Maybe check them out.
One of the best “ cruise control “ devices I have ever used on a motorcycle and I’ve been using them since 1967 is free. An elastic band wrapped on the handle bar between the grip and the right hand switch and front brake lever block clamped to the handle bar. It provides enough friction to prevent the throttle from rolling back on its own even when you take your hand off the grip but yet is easy to roll back the throttle as you would normally when slowing and your wallet hasn’t felt a pinch. When one elastic wears out as they tend to do over time simply replace the elastic that was used to hold a bunch of carrots together from your grocery store. Free. It’s worked for me for over 50 years on a dozen bikes.
You say, "coasting kills."
Can you explain why? As a new rider I have never heard this wisdom.
Sure! Motorcycle suspension is most stable when loaded under acceleration or deceleration. Even when cruising at a constant speed, the force of the engine working against gravity or wind resistance is enough to make the motorcycle feel planted. But if you coast (i.e. clutch pulled in, or in neutral, "freewheeling") the bike becomes jittery and harder to control. Hope that helps! ~RF9
@@FortNine Thank you for the succinct answer! I can't believe I got a response from the man himself! I'm star struck! Love your channel and your content. I'm always looking forward to your next videos. Keep it up!
@@FortNine : It is also illegal in most jurisdictions.
And with two strokes, running under a closed throttle will foul the plug, and the upper cylinder isn't getting any lubrication.
@@FortNine Have to disagree with the recommendation for K&Ns etc. These always test higher levels of Silica (that's sand) in oil than STD filters. A STD filter still flows more than enough air when at maximum recommended mileage (or clogging). I'd never put one on a motor that I care about, although I do have one on my race bike - low overall mileage and the minor performance gain is worthwhile in this context. Other than that another very good contribution to knowledge and safety.
im already saving gas on a motorcycle by just not using my car..great video
Exactly! As Ryan said, "does anyone give a shit?"
That exhaust backpressure part though... Should we ask Engineering Explained for approval?
For a Backpressure vs Exhaust Scavenging analogy?
Makes sense on a carburated 2 stroke but on a four-stroke that's tuned properly there shouldn't be any unburnt fuel left in the cylinder
Backpressure is BS. Scavenging is key.
@@garmack12 Exactly. 4 strokes require an exhaust that has as little back pressure as possible.
Ryan, This video has now become very relevant at today's petrol prices!!!🤬🤬
Cheers!
Summary:
Get more fuel for money:
Fill up in the morning / cold weather.
Raise the pump hose above the tank to empty the last of the gas out of it. You paid for it already.
General:
Use only octane ratings your bike is rated for. Don't go higher or lower.
Avoid high ethanol fuel.
Don't carry more weight than you need to.
Maintenance:
Check and fix your spark plugs / carbs / injectors / jets / valve clearance.
Check and clean or replace your air filter.
Keep your tires inflated properly. A few PSI over is OK. A lot over is dangerous.
Riding style:
Ride at slower speeds.
Avoid acceleration and deceleration where possible: accelerate slowly, stop slowly and early. Lane split to maintain speed. Use cruise control / throttle lock.
Engine brake rather than using the brakes or coasting in neutral.
Ride lower and closer to the bike.
Modifications:
Remap fuel delivery for better mileage.
Get low rolling resistance / stiffer tires. Will decrease grip.
Get a lighter sprocket.
Get a lighter chain. Will require more maintenance and attention.
Change sprockets to lower all RPMs. Less acceleration, maybe higher top speed.
Get and use a throttle lock if you don't have one.
Gear:
Use a tank bag and or tail bag rather than saddle bags / panniers.
Wear a full face helmet.
Best bang for buck:
Sprockets and chain.
Ride slow, maintain speed.
Keep your air filter clean.
Awesome vid as always. One correction, though -- lifting the fuel hose won't do diddly. The shut-off valve is in the nozzle, so the only gas you'll get is in that short stretch between the pump handle and the tip, and since you're already angled down into the tank you'll get that bit of dribble anyway.
It you prepay the pump will stop with the nozzle valve open allowing you to get a couple of ounces of fuel out of the hose
He predicted the fuel prices will go up 3 years ago. What a wise guy
Rule of thumb seems to be for every 13°C/ 25°F drop in intake air temp, octane required drops by 1 full octane rating. Octane needed also drops as you climb higher in elevation.
Not a fuel economy thing as such but can save some coin over a year.
1:59 it's 30% less efficient... It cost me 3km out of 100. Wait, what? Something doesn't match up.
10% ethanol, which is 30% less efficient works out exactly to your math of losing 3kms
@@trentsiemens1131 Thanks, you're right. I hadn't realized that the 30% applied to only the ethanol and not the ethanol-gas mixture.
Cool I just learned something. Engine braking saves gas :)
On fuel-injected bikes, at least.
I love the editing in this, leaving the outtakes IN like literally nobody was actually going to watch it! Very funny!
IM EATING LEFTOVERS
That's good for you :)
Dude, I'm eating a half eaten pack of doritos I found on the table - I need this shit man.
Leftovers are eating me
I eat leftovers every day, literally. My kids are 4 and 8.
Drag is the main factor in fuel economy. Rolling resistance and engine/drive train friction will increase roughly proportionally to an increase in speed and engine rpm, meaning that the related fuel use would be roughly proportional to distance traveled. However, air resistance increases exponentially with an increase in speed. ("air resistance force is approximately proportional to the square of the velocity, v2. In other words, twice the velocity produces four times the force.") That's why top speeds are ultimately limited by available horse power, and that is generally proportional to the amount of fuel being burnt. Rolling resistance aside, for a bike to do 100 mph, it requires 4x the power of doing 50mph and 16x the amount of power to do 25mph. Tuck yourself down over the tank and pull your knees in as much as you like, but if you're worried about actually making that next gas station, slow down!
1:42.....Hey, I'm a KLR owner and i resemble that remark!!!!!
0:53 I always wondered........If thats true did I just get a tank full of REGULAR when I pushed premium? I miss the days when we had a hose for each grade.
I like how he goes into intricate details in everything he covers.
your driving (or, riding in this case) will impact your fuel ecconomy the most, if your heavy on the pedal/throttle you use more, shift early and ride a bit slower, save fuel. Also engien break alot (but dont forget to light up the rear light)
No exhaust needs back pressure, that's the oldest myth ever. The baffles in a muffler slow down reversion waves from the end of the exhaust. If reversion waves reach the valve while it's open then you have poor exhaust flow.
Don’t use TPMS systems. They can fail and bleed all the air out of your tire while you’re riding down the freeway. Chances are your mechanic has heard of this, and my broken shoulder can back it up, too.
I find that daily bike checks can discover under-inflated tyres better than new-fangled electronic tyre-deflating devices can.
I give a shit, Im poor and live in the UK one of the most expensive countries for fuel... You over the other side of the pond have it really easy...
the UK is 10th on the fuelprice list, my country, the netherlands, is on number one www.worldatlas.com/articles/european-countries-with-the-most-expensive-fuel.html
@@GolfVictorHotel Congratulations on the win...I think?
Yeah? In LTU we pay now 1.25 eur per liter, but our salary monthly is what you earn per week, stop complaining!
dznnf7 it’s a great honour to have won that competition.
@@GolfVictorHotel - today we were paying 1.22Eu/L for fuel, last week it was 1.35Eu/L in NZ (for 91)
Backpressure is always bad, it increases cylinder temperatures lowering the amount of air you can get into the cylinder. On multi cylinder engines with good manifolds it hurts Exhaust scavenging. Basically the better an engine can breathe out the better it can breathe in.
That is only beneficial for maximising power. For fuel economy you actually want a smaller exhaust so it flows more efficiently at lower throttle and revs, and a big exhaust doesn't do that.
Best channel on UA-cam!
Equalizer glad your a fan, but let’s be real here.
If you don't want dirt in your engine, then do not use foam or cotton filters. There is no free lunch with air filtration, because filtration efficiency tracks with flow restriction; which means the more air flow the less filtration efficiency. For off road bikes etc no one cares because the top end has to be replaced soon anyways. For your road bike that you want to last forever, stick with paper filters.
Just put a turbo on I don't see what the problem is :^). Good vid as always F9.
10/10 would buy a turbo busa for fuel efficiency
You missed one. Get a front fairing and windshield if there's one to fit your bike. The motorcycle will cut through the air more efficiently and push it out of your way, eliminating the need to hug the gas tank.
Very interesting Video. Is there anyone in India who can help me find the Aluminium Sprocket like the one shown in this Video. I am looking one for a Royal Enfield Himalayan in Western Part of India, Gujarat. Fortnine I love your film making style as well. the split screens and multi character parodies are fun to watch. keep up the marvellous work.
Wattup Gujju friend! XDXDXD
Itchy Boots is a Dutch woman travelling on a Himalayan. Presently she is in Iran. Eight cents a litre.
EIGHT CENTS A LITRE.
No bloody wonder they keep insisting God is great.
Now the question is: How much did all this cost compared to how much gas you save? How far would you have to go for these "upgrades" to pay of?
Power commander with wide band o2, 520 chain and aluminum sprocket, lighter after market exhaust, and a bunch of other little things, you know typical upgrades... I saved roughly 30lbs of weight on the bike, and improved (in ECO mode) 10 MPG over stock... SO if I only ever rode in ECO mode, I would recoup my money in roughly 20k miles, or about 2 years, with the miles I ride. BUT since the mods also allow for an improved level of performance over stock, I do NOT ride in "ECO" mode unless I need the range. The original MPG was about 35, with the new maps and "upgraded" parts I can get very close to 50 MPG. SO instead of getting 160 miles out of a tank, I can get closer to 225 miles. For longer rides it is godsend having the ability to improve the millage so drastically, while still being able to have the extra power and performance if I so choose. All by pushing a button and switching maps. The down side of the "ECO" mode, is a huge lose in power, and very "boring" engine performance. Of course, by hitting that same button I can get "full power" mode, with about 140 HP on tap... It's can be very exciting... Of course that comes at a sacrifice of getting much lower fuel millage...
@@JJ_ExMachina Cool. Thanks for the info 👍. It should have been added in the video, as "economy" was part of the title. 🙂
@@Roy_Godiksen Fair enough, and easy to misinterpret. Fuel economy refers to the economy of fuel though, meaning distance traveled vs volume of fuel.
Most people only really care about this in terms of money saved, since volume of fuel is seen as $/gal, not necessarily gal/tank. So it's understandable that talk of fuel economy is mostly seen as a consideration of total monetary cost of gas, and thus of mileage, not the fuel "cost" of mileage.
There are also people who care about fuel usage outside of it's monetary cost, and might not worry too much if they only break even, or even lose a little.
@@theclinger It should say: "Fuel Efficiency", in sted of "Fuel Economy". That would be clearer. 🙂👍
@@Roy_Godiksen Oh yeah, would definitely help to disambiguate.
Lithium low weight battery.
Fuel pressure regulator rated 0,2 - 0-3 bar higher than original ( better fuel atomisation under closed loop).
Touring style windshield.
Engine Friction reducer like Militec1 / high quality sinthetic engine oil.
Real plasma jet ignitions...
3:28
Always a good thing to have an *AR* in the garage, those thing comes in handy when modding my motorcycle.😂
Shooting holes in the gas tank will increase the fuel efficiency bcs the bike will be lighter
lol. it's a Gas gun....
It's a BB gun, but yeah.
He uses it to test helmet windshields...
Disagree on the oem paper filters they are actually very good these days and foam filters struggle to match them
No1 way to save weight and reduce wind resistance: Don't be a fat bastard.
_Or why I only get 6 miles a gallon._
The magic aerodynamic speed for vehicles is ( pardon the lapse in metric conversion) 59 MPH. Air resistance is pretty linear it to that point and motorcycle riders suffer significantly over streamlined cars and trucks simply due to a lack of said streamlining. Above 59 aerodynamic drag is like climbing a ladder even a slight increase in speed has a significant increase in drag and fuel consumption. (Probably the reason Canadian transport trucks have governors limiting their speed to 105 K.)
03:50 Come on Ryan. Tests had proven that a clean disposable air filter works as good as a top dog racing air filter. Performance air filters can only represent some marginal gain in a high HP bike, with tuned ECU.
@Dustin Nisbet-Jones I thought about the same :'D
I live and ride an 800gs in the desert, dry dust all the time. From all the sleuthing I've done and the local Motorrad mechanics I've talked to, compared to paper filters, K&N et al. lets a bit (too much) of that fine particulate matter flow through and is bad for the engine in the long run. That's how you get the power increase, bigger filter pore size, more air flow! But, if you live in Vancouver or someplace with less dust on the regular, you're probably good with a K&N.
Closed loop F.I bikes: (i.e. with lamda sensors) When you are riding for fuel economy, will not make much difference, cause the throttle valve is already blocking most of the air going in. A modern ECU will measure the mixture and adjust
Open loop F.I bikes with some sensors (no lamda sensors): IF they have a map sensor (measures atmospheric pressure inside and outside the airbox), will adjust the fuel mixture for less air drawn, although less accurately, so less incoming air is compensated
Carbed bikes: Less air will make the mixture richer BUT, fuel is drawn into the cylinder by the vacuum it produces, so less air going in will reduce the fuel sucked in, some carbs have tricks to compensate, some dont
scha0306 depending on if you're referring to isolated testing outside the engine area. Funny thing, during K&N testing they found the vibrations of the engine help trap particulates
@Dustin Nisbet-Jones Also important, and noted in the video is that he wasn't testing how well the filters removed debris from air, just how much power was made.
Some studies have shown that OEM air filters filter better, and after market air filters perform better but do allow larger particle through. The UA-cam channel Project Farm explains this very well.
Gas shmas. Motorcycles are for fun 😊
I'm with you brooo hahahahaha
Which is why small-displacement rocks. 72 MPG on a machine with a 0-60 of 5 seconds. The cbr500r
@@amihere383 I was considering getting one of those but some reviews say they top at at eighty.
@@michaeldiogenes I have a cb500x (the adventure-ish model, same engine) and it does about 100-105 mph on gps.
@@n00bje GPS? Does the speedo get a little shaky
To be fair, most ethanol blends are usually better than pure gas, as they evaporate better, which in most cases results in higher thermal efficiency. They also deliver slightly higher octane ratings. Both effects are more prominent, when on high loads and especially when on high rpm.
The water attracting part can be useful, if used correctly, as it binds water, which won't "harm" anything as long as it is bound. The problems begin, when it is saturated.
That opener cracked me up!
Selling an aluminum sprocket with smaller chain without mentioning once that the chain and sprockets life will probably be a third of what it use to be. Amazing seller skill.
P.S: if there is one filtrer that you should toss to the garbage bin, it is the K&N. They will let a lot of dirt go inside your engine.
I thought he just put Diesel in his tank for a minute.
Then I remembered: Canada.
Diesel powered motorcycle getting 100+ mpg
"cheap bastards,,, KLR owners" you made me spit beer with that one. -being of course a cheap bastard AND multiple KLR owner. 8-]
I'm gonna have to disagree with you on the back pressure segment. Your logic is sound and makes sense. However what you forget is that with back pressure comes piston resistance. In the case of a single cylinder or twin cylinder. Back pressure adds the amount of torque required to push the piston down there for slowing the crankshaft spinning(meaning you need more fuel for the same amount of work) If your tune(map) is efficient and set up specifically for your mods then back pressure shouldny affect fuel economy at all if anything it would hurt it. The smaller the engine the worse back pressure is for efficiency. Due to the small size of the rotating parts not having the mass to continue rotating when back pressure is added. Again this is assuming your tune is optimized. Greater flow= greater efficiency (more complete burn thus resulting in more power with the added benifits of requiring less fuel for the same power) but the tune has to be professionally calibrated for it. The elevation, density altitude, fuel grade, fuel and engine timing, spark timing, cam/crank timing, intake temp, short term/long term fuel trim, engine temp ect all go into making the engine run efficiently for the givin conditions of that specific time. Hope this makes sense as him saying you need back pressure for fuel efficiency is 100% incorrect
Or just buy a ninja 250. I get a whopping 30 mpg maybe it's cause it's revving at 12,000 rpm on the highway cause I'm stupid enough to do 100mph on a 250🤷♂️
Back pressure is only necessary (and useful) in a 2 stroke engine, where the combustion stroke is shorter and the fuel (being less atomized) burns slower. On a 4 stroke engine it's unnecessary and will cost you power and efficiency.
The myth that 4 stroke engines need back pressure comes from people who put huge 3" exhausts on their vehicles and lose power. This happens because of the venturi effect, gasses flow slower in a wider pipe and faster in a narrower one (until restricted by back pressure), that faster flow in a correctly sized pipe helps draw out the exhaust gasses.
Knightmare I disconnected the exhaust after the last catalytic converter on my v6 accord for a day. It lost a shitload of power down low. Didn’t change the pipe size or anything, but those 3 mufflers which were bypassed DO help.
On my 4 cylinder CBR250, I changed out the original muffler for a long glasspack. Again, didn’t change pipe diameters before the muffler, and I did rejet it richer, but it lost low end power and fuel economy.
Backpressure does help if done correctly, so stop parroting engineering explained with his “stop saying engines need backpressure” video. Is your engine going to blow up without backpressure? No, but it will affect how it runs.
@@Daschickenify ua-cam.com/video/jjPeP_Nn2B4/v-deo.html
Exactly and wrapping/ceramic coating, will promote this, by the principle of energy conservation of the flow, do to preventing wasting it, into dissipated heat.
Back pressure on a 4t is like saying that 2 valves works better than 4.
Engine efficiency is like not "how much water flows, at a given mass, it's how far away the jet is landing". Back pressure is like adding a screen in front of it.
Two valves engines have better torque on the lower rpm range, so longer gearing is more suitable.
That's what I'm after myself, longer gearing, for lower rpm coasting.
I'm not interested in faster acceleration, my bike has only 11hp...
Only two I'd disagree with, the tap is in the hand part of a fuel pump. So no fuel is released from the hose if you elevate it. Also coasting in gear will have engine braking so will pull up in less distance than coasting in neutral. So no gain there.
Hi, is it necessary to do wheel balancing after installing an external TPMS? i am worried that the additional unsprung weight might cause wheel wobble, I ride a light weight sport tourer...Thanks!
BlAzEAnGeL85 this is a very good point
i was thinking the same
On2Wheels According to TireGard, no. These ones are only a few grams each, so not enough to make a significant unbalance. Beware of internal TPMS systems though - you have to remove the tire to install, which is a pain, and many of them are heavy enough to require rebalancing.
New variable.
I have an electric motorcycle. A real one with a licence plate that you ride on the road and keep up with traffic.
Figure how body weight affects top speed and acceleration.
Last thing on my mind mate... All I care about is which gas will make my bike go faster haha
Was concidering removing the engine to reduce weight...& Maybe adding pedals 😂🤣😂
Best comment so far
Man I love how much more comfortable Ryan has become😁
S&s carburetors talks alot about how drag pipes cause revererations that actually trap exhaust they put thumb screws at the end of thier drag pipes with some improvements to performance on a dyno.
The back pressure statement has only relevance in two strokes. You should clearify that. A fourstroke do not want any back pressure what so ever.
Try taking the muffler(s) off a four stroke bike or car and come back and tell us what changed. I have done this myself, and found a huge loss in low end power.
whats hes mean by coasting kills? i usually pull up to a red light/ end my splitting to the front by pulling in the clutch or sometimes at neutral when i feel safe or the light will be long.
to use less fuel just mix it with water. works great for my bike
3 years after we are back again to this video...
The fuel hose "trick" is useless.
You don't get much more gas, but I wouldn't call it useless.
I knew a guy a few years ago who kept his little dual sport going by draining gas pump hoses at night. But he was incredibly cheep and saw no problem spending an hour or two to steal a half tank of gas. Nobody liked him.
Yeah the nozzle actually needs the pressure from the turbine or fuel pump to work. All the trigger does is 'let' the valve open once the pressure is there.
If it works at all, you're just stealing gas from the next guy to use the pump.
Yeh, this trick stopped working about 20 years ago here in Australia.
Adding anything heavier than standard plastic valve caps if you have stock rubber valve stems will cause them to crack really quickly
What is wrong with the video? It feels dull
Because the topic is dull itself
It's the editing. By letting the takes go longer than normal they created an interesting little gag but also sacrificed the usual snappy concise passing we are all so fond of weather we and aware of it or not.
Pacing*
@@MeowyBrigade Au contraire. Ryan F9 takes pride in taking seemingly dull topics (e.g. helmet safety) into interesting pieces. This is his major skill.
@@threethrushes I don't diss him by any mean, I'm just pointing out that imo the topic is dull. I'm still a loyal subscriber :)
modern updates:
antigravity battery saves a ton of weight
buy a 2pc aluminum sprocket with steel teeth so you don’t have to replace it every 3 weeks
Change the E on your gauge to an F so your tank is constantly full
Lol
king joffrey strikes agen
Fortnite strikes again
HAHAHAHAHAHA
Did you just call me a cheap bastard because of my klr? I would have you know... nah you're right.
When i saw the tittle i was like
Meh drive it like you stole it and still gets 5l/100km what is to complain about