I've been sharpening my blades for a long time, years. First started using a file, then graduated to a bench grinder then to a right angle grinder. On both the bench and right angle grinder I would use a standard grinding wheel. Then several years ago I had some of the flap disc and said why not try using them. Best idea I have ever had. I found the standard wheels would more apt to heat up and burn the metal which leads to it loosing its temper. I don't have that with the flap disc at all. As for balancing I have to admit I use to use a nail in the wall and hang to blade on that. Not very good. Again, several years ago I bought the same Oregon balancer that you have. That's the next best thing I have ever bought. I encourage those who sharpen their own blades to invest in both the flap disc and Oregon balancer.
First time I have seen any of these channels use the magnetic bearing balancing tool. We used to use one 40 years ago in our shop class. Didn't know anyone was making them commercially. They are worth the investment.
I've tried just about every blade sharpening method. This is the only one with which I can get good, consistent results. It also makes balancing easier.
I used to use an old blade spindle with new bearings to sharpen my blades, but it wasn't sensitive enough. Even with the grease removed from the bearings. So I switched to the Oregon. It works so well that you can end up staring at the blade waiting for it to settle down. And what I really like is the repeatability. If I have a blade that lands at 5:00, and I pull the blade off the balancer and then re-attach it, it will land at 5:00 again. That's a quality built product. Thanks for the video.
I have been using an angle grinder for blades for so long I can't remember. Balance has been a problem so I will be buying a balancer though your link. I only wish all UA-camrs were so well skilled. I can't post anything negative about this one. I did see a comment about the file being used like a saw but since I don't have to buy the file, well you get it. @ 66 years old, I find very little that impresses me but you did it! Good job young man 😊
You can also just use a nail on the wall. Hang your blade, grind a little more on the heavy side. May not work as well as a balancer but it works well. Been 22 years mowing professionally and I've never had to balance them. I check in with a nail but they've never been bad
I have many years with golf course and small engine repairs, I like to square the edge from the bottom first, that way you have a nice clean edge to sharpen.
I've been sharpening mower blades for 40 years, and you're exactly right. Get rid of the nicks and burrs first, square the edge, then reestablish the angle. The edge will take care of itself.
After reading a lot of reviews on the balancers, and the fact that I like good quality tools, I bought the MAG-1000 balancer, sure I paid more, but it will last longer than I will. The reason I bought that one is I have an electric riding mower, and keeping the blades really balanced is very important since they are mounted directly to the motor, unlike a 30.00 spindle, those motors are more like 300.00, and out-of-balance blades can cause the bearing to wallow out the motor housing. ps, in the MAG-1000 info, it shows how to really balance a blade, by checking horizontal and vertical, yep, just horizontal is fairly good, but having both means it is really balanced. It didn't make sense to me until I used it a bit. What that amounts to, if the hole in the blade was slightly off center, you can balance horizontally, but not vertically, and yes, I have run across blades like that., eash enough to grind a bit off the back of the heavy side and have it perfectly balanced. Sort of like a car tire, if you only balanced it east to west, you could have a bumpy ride. And while the MAG-1000 has a couple of more expensive balancers, like with a carbide taper or one that is much more sensitive to movement, for me, the plain unit works great, but don't mount it at a door as I did, when the wind blows, it will keep the blade moving.
Considering getting the Oregon balancer. Just bought a property with over 5 acres and blades go dull after each mowing. I was hoping blades would last a season staying sharp, but I was just beating the grass after the first mowing. Every small engine repair and JD dealership is at least seven weeks behind in service and you have to pay for pickup or buy a trailer to deliver if you want to have anyone sharpen or change blades. Last fall JD charged $300 for p/u and a set of new blades and oil change so I bought an Oregon blade sharpener and just doing the sharpening and maintenance myself.
They're definitely worth it, even brand new blades come out of balance which is wild. Sometimes it's just the sticker on one side that throws them off, other times I have to remove a significant amount of metal.
Where on earth do you people find that a flap sander is faster? It is only as fast as a grinding disc at first. It slows down quickly from that speed but a grinding disc keeps cutting.AND IS FIVE TIMES CHEAPER. DUH!!!
Good video. I have a 2005 42" lawn tractor in the Arizona high desert, so I cut weeds and tumbleweeds as opposed to grass. So far I've used a bench grinder to re-sharpen my blades, and they get pretty beaten up by rocks as well. However, I do have an electric hand grinder and a bench vise, and have decided to use that instead from now on.
You don't need a razor sharp blade for cutting grass. You need a properly angled bevel, no nicks, and good balance. Blades are always going to be dull on the cutting edge after one lawn anyway. The proper angled bevel is what's important.
True... That razor edge will be gone first cut anyway. I just bring them down to a 'near' razor edge and call it good. I don't worry about grinding back to take all the nicks out either, that is only wasting good metal. If I can get say 85% of the edge to a 'near' razor, it's a win. Unless of course the nicks are really huge... much judgement call goes on when sharpening a blade.
If blade has serious chips then first grind cutting edge at 90* to the flat, then proceed to grind the proper cutting angle onto the cutting edge. Saves time and gives superior results. Cutting metal at the bevel angle is time consuming and builds a lot of heat. Nice video, quite well done.
Yes, the only reason I don't grind a 90° is because I don't have the blade grinding "jig" or tool that allows me to set the proper angle. By doing it this way, it's a bit more time consuming, but it allows me to follow the angle that's already on the blade.
Thorough description,well done! I use my lawn equipment dealer for mower related service. Right now I have a Stihl 20" RMA 510 battery mower,which I love. The owner's manual says to torque the blade when re-installing it. I don't have a torque wrench. Can't I just turn the bolt till it feels tight? That is all we did with past lawnmower blades.
Yes that should be fine, as long as you recheck it occasionally. I have a battery powered impact that tightens them on on number 1 til they don't move then number 2 quickly. On riding mowers it's number 2 until they don't move, then quick zap on number 3
I've used a belt sander with 50 grit belt to sharpen blades for many years. Far easier to get the edge angle correct and not end up with unwanted nicks and gouges. As for balancing, John Deere recommends hanging the blade from a nail held sideways in a vise. I have a balancing cone, but they don't work well with the JD blades. The nail setup they recommend worked perfect on my D105 with a 42" deck. Page 45 in their D105 - D170 tractors operators manual pdf.
I've used that nail or screwdriver method too. It seemed to work until I used the wall-mounted balancer. Found out that the blade was not balanced after all. Just my opinion, and your mileage may vary.
I use a grinding disk, they last much longer and cut faster. I grind the cutting edge perpendicular to the back side of the blade to get the notches out, this gives you a flat edge to grind to. I used to grind the cutting edge to balance but that removes more material than is needed to balance. Grind the end of the blade, less material removed is needed to balance, also if you do not have to resharpen the blade every time you check balance.
@kermitbearden. Good reply! You are one of the few people on this video who knows the right, cheapest, fastest way to sharpen blades. The other morons worry about heat, shineyness, razor sharpness, etc. too much. They work up a sweat for nothing with their stupid files and such.
Absolutely one of the best tools we have in the shop but have found we spend much more time working on the blades to balance them since the magnetic balancer is so accurate.
The real key to lawnmower blades is sharpening them often! The key to that is having your tools and procedures readily available, so that the job doesn't take long.
The Oregon balancer is great, but quite expensive. The cone balancer can be used effectively if run a few layers of masking tape around the cone. You then press in the center blade hole so that it fits square. It maye take a few tries but once done--you are all set. You will never have to do it again. This is far better than a nail in the wall.
Good video and the Oregon balancer is the best. All debris must be removed from the blade the Oregon is that sensitive. We mainly sharpen at 30 degrees and put on a sharp one sided edge which our customers like because they all comment that our blades make their lawns look better than ever before.
Interesting that the manufacturers recommend between 25-30 degrees. I sharpen at 45 degrees. The edge lasts longer, and the angle still makes a nice cut. Think razor blade angle vs cold chisel. Maybe they recommend that angle so they need sharpening more often, which means they sell more blades.
@@steadyeddie7453 The steeper 45 degree angle if more durable but creates less lift and is ideal for heavy foliage or sandy areas. Side discharging only since less lift does not mulch well.
@@staceyward777 100% correct but for the cost savings i will go with the Oregon all day. We may do a video on it since it is slightly out of balance and we needed to add a few pieces of tape as weight to balance it properly. Compared to the pyramid balancers this is like night and day no comparison. Accuracy is unbelieveable and did you know that 90% of new blades are out of balance and some by a lot.
Good info!! I've been using the aluminum cone to balance blades but I know what you mean with the different shaped center holes. They don't always fit very good. I'll be looking into getting that Oregon blade balancer!!
I soak my lawnmower blades in a 13 gallon wastepaper basket full of water and the caked on grass dissolves so that the grass can be easily scraped off using a plastic scraper and a hand-held wire brush. You should have mentioned that when you try to balance the blade, you should only remove material from the back side of the blade. Instead of using a $90 to $150 balancer, I use a long slim finishing nail hammered into a 2"x4"...the slimmer the nail, the better. My new Honda blades came with a 25 degree sharpening angle which I measured with my digital angle gauge.
You are correct you can only remove material from the angled side and only deburr with a file like we showed. The water tip is a good idea but normally we just scrape and flap grind remove debris since we do not have time to wait too much equipment getting done per day since we offer one to two day service and repair. You may be surprised if you take one of your nail checked blades to a shop with a magnetic balancer to just compare (likely will show out of balance)
awesome in depth video! I got a used 4 1/2" Milwaukie angle grinder, a couple 40 grit flap disc's, & a lil plastic pedastal blade balancer this spring. ALL WORTH IT!! I must have saved myself around $400.00 this mowing season. What are your thoughts on the All American Blade Sharpener? I have been kicking around the idea of investing in one of those, to help hold those perfect angles.
I can't see myself spending the money, but probably because we're so used to using the grinder over all these years. You definitely get a perfect, or near perfect grind with the All American though!
I'm new to your video's. I'm down here in the lower 48, way down, like South Carolina. Anyway, awesome video. I've been watching your videos and have picked up a few nice tips. Keep up the great service.
Don't forget, it's a lawnmower blade, not a chefs knife! That Oregon 42-047 blade balancer cost me $90 and I believe it lists for about $150 here in Canada. I charge $12 to sharpen and balance blades, so after doing 8 blades, this tool has paid for itself!
@@kenhilson786 Razor Blades? You can sharpen a blade at least a half a dozen or more times. You could invest into one of your $10 blades and a balancing kits for $10, a total investment $20, and sharpen that blade 6 times. This comes to $3.33 a blade and keep the balancing kit for future sharpenings Or you can spend $60 on 6 blades. Your choice .
Great vid, just found your channel. I have a couple different methods that I use to achieve a sharp and balanced mower blade. I sometimes change the edge angle and I will sometimes extend the cutting edge length by creating an edge in the blunt area in the blade.
Nobody else on YT gives better to-the-point info with zero BS than you do, man. Appreciate all of your content, and I'm looking up that Oregon blade balancer as soon as I am done typing this...... Lol
Thanks Robert but there still is the possibility of being slightly off centre causing an issue we prefer the magnetic balancer only the modified 5 point star blade in the video is a problem on it.
Amazed at how the grinding wheel sharpens the blade. I noticed that you did not use it on the flat bottom...is there any time where that is necessary? Great video, thanks
This gave my inventors mindset an idea: what about a BALL & pedestal, the ball drilled 3/4 thru. There's your universal fitment! Pedestal would be a long screw thru a piece of plywood for a base. Oregon makes EVERYTHING quality, I use a lot of their stuff.
I have rough property and it grows rocks, so I sharpen my blades at 30 degrees so they hold up better. They get bent a lot, and I've straightened many with a 2x4 and a 10 lb. sledge. After 3-4 times you just have get a new one, as they get too disfigured. It would be nice if someone would 4 a Bush Hog type blade. I haven't because of the star centers but next blade may be an old blade center welded to a thick steel disc with 2 bolt holes and a couple of half blade to pivot at the bolts (grade 5 or better). Voila!
You can also use a pencil though the hole to balance the blade. Also use a wire wheel on a drill to clean the blade and use a file to sharpen the blade.
If you dont have the fancy balancers I just suspend the blade with some fine wire or string through the center and use a small 1 " plastic spirit level. Works fine for +/- 15%
What I see a lot of people doing is they are mowing their grass so short, I describe is as tilling the lawn. Unless you have grass that was laid down originally from sod, every lawn has small stones and debris in their lawn. I will never understand why people mow their grass less than 2 1/2 inches. Most lawn experts recommend 3 inches or to never cut more than 1 to 1 1/2 inches off your grass when you mow it.
I cut my grass at 1 1/2" with Ego mower and reel mower, and follow 1/3 rule. my grass is green and healthy in the heat of Summer. as long as you feed, water, mow, consistently, there shouldn't be an issue to cut low. many of regular home owners just don't have that much of time. so I guess to survive the Summer heat and maintain good looking grass with less maintenance, I get 2 1/2" ~ 3" HOC is recommended.
First time trying to sharpen on some older blades I have. My question is, how do I really know if they are good to go? I know they aren’t supposed to be razor sharp. Just trying to see if I’m doing this right
You need to try and balance them to make sure you took off the same amount on both sides of the blade. Then your good to go. Some people don't balance their blades at all
A good thought but if it is properly balanced then there will be no vibration when you fire it up and even though it is picking up debris i have never found that to create vibration issue
I have done my balancing just like my father did. He screwed a screw in the bench and put the blade on the screw and it would balance it's self if it was properly ground.
10:00 You can also use the conical tip of a used Sivester Rocket. Drive a nail into a piece of wood. Pinch off the head and put the tip of the rocket on it, swinging freely. Then you can balance a lawnmower blade very precisely
Are brand new blades ready to be used or do they need to be sharpened? They seem dull to me. Also how fine of an edge are you making when you sharpen the bkades?
They will have a sharp edge painted over to protect the consumer and shipping people from being cut. But we've found that the sticker puts the blades out of balance. We sharpen and balance all new blades
That's because you DON'T need a razor sharp blade to cut grass! Have you ever sharpened a blade and then cut one lawn with it? Guess what? The blade isn't razor sharp anymore! It's dull/rounded. What a good blade needs the proper angled bevel, no nicks, and good balance. Ever notice that a brand new blade cuts better than a freshly sharpened blade? Not sure how these guys keep a proper angle bevel with a hand grinder! We've used a RBG 3410, it's a proper blade sharpener.
My son flies more control planes. And we balance our props on a similar system. But after we get the prop this sit horizontal. Then we work on the hub of a prop. With the prop is about to put it at any position 45 degrees up and down whatever and sit there not move. If one side is heavier then we put a bit of weight usually just couple drops of super glue on the lighter side, or sand a little bit of The hub on the heaviside. I've seen engines rip out of their mount cos that props not balance. My son was doing a bit of pylon racing those planes do 300 km an hour. And out of balance prop can destroy your motor.
Eliminator Performance As a homeowner I’ve balanced for many decades on a hacksaw blade in a vice. For homeowner use on a single blade machine that’s probably good enough. Now as someone getting into small engine work I realize my method is not nearly precise enough.
William Painter Lume, gradient tint, dark up top with hardly any tint down below. Titanium arms with a light weight plastic front lens frame. They stay on your head when looking down because they're rear weighted. I have an ocular condition (photosensitivity) so I always wear them.
@@EliminatorPerformance wow thanks for the infos, believe me or not i got a similar problem even when there are clouds around, light is too intense, thx also for all the good work on your videos
If the blade hole is too large to fit securely on the stepped cone balancer, I put a piece of electric tape over the top of the cone and then install the blade. The tape thickness centers the blade.
Remember formula for weight equals mass times acceleration so just a difference of an ounce or two between the two halves , the speed of the blade will make it seem like you have a weight attached to the blades end of a half pound or more.
I agree. "close enough" usually equals vibration. Especially when you have a 2 or 3 blade deck. With such a quality balancer why not go for perfect. It only takes literally one minute to go from within 15 degrees to perfect.
I have a Honda Commercial Micro Cut Mulching Lawn Mower with two blades. There's no center hole to balance on, just two bolt holes and the bolts attach to the clutch assembly. No one in these parts will touch it and can't balance it.
I've always tried to grind down an even amount of passes on each side, then repeat until sharp, put it on the balancer. How much is the fancy balancer? The cone shape balancer is cheap. If your just a homeowner, not in buisness
I think the balancer is like $80, well worth it for us but yes for a homeowner might not be worth it. Although if you have a couple mowers, maybe worth the cost. It does work great!
I would think you could get the correct size washer and use it as a buffer pad to lay the weird shape hole on. This way the cheap balancer still works. Just saying
The state of that grinding, scrubbing is usually inexperienced users, it is no good you get low and high spots, you need nice clean passes start to end one continuous motion, working polishing stainless steel for years gives you that knowledge, look how uneven your results are it's from s rubbing, start then end at end point no stopping
Never sharpen a lawn mower blade razor sharp.. sharpen them to about 25,000 radius and a 30° angle use the solid 4 1/2 inch grinding wheels they last a lot longer when grinding out the Knicks and dents...😮
I would lay a washer down first on the pedestal balancer and then put the blade on top. Nice job though! ( too bad they didn’t call it a pyramid balancer)
Yea I've actually tried that but the issue is still centering the blade on the washer lol it's a PITA but like I showed, it is possible. Thanks for watching!
You would need a washer that fits perfectly inside the star cluster with an ID that matches the OD of one of the cone diameters. The magnetic balancer is so much easier.
Flap sanding discs don't sand fast very long. Grinding discs are much cheaper and give results faster. And don't grind off the edge of the blade either. Grind towards the edge to keep from causing metal from forming a thin rolled feathered edge. You don't need to debur the edge with a file then.
Yes you could if it did not need that much more removed to balance it but in all reality removing some from the cutting edge towards the centre hole is so much better if you did not want to touch the area already ground. Most of our customers prefer a sharp edge for a better quality cut but the rule is that the cutting edge should have a flat on the edge to prevent chipping from stones etc. (This flat is very small)
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I've been sharpening my blades for a long time, years. First started using a file, then graduated to a bench grinder then to a right angle grinder. On both the bench and right angle grinder I would use a standard grinding wheel. Then several years ago I had some of the flap disc and said why not try using them. Best idea I have ever had. I found the standard wheels would more apt to heat up and burn the metal which leads to it loosing its temper. I don't have that with the flap disc at all. As for balancing I have to admit I use to use a nail in the wall and hang to blade on that. Not very good. Again, several years ago I bought the same Oregon balancer that you have. That's the next best thing I have ever bought. I encourage those who sharpen their own blades to invest in both the flap disc and Oregon balancer.
First time I have seen any of these channels use the magnetic bearing balancing tool.
We used to use one 40 years ago in our shop class.
Didn't know anyone was making them commercially. They are worth the investment.
We used the same type (Different Mfg) balancer in the Snapper MFG QC department for incoming inspection of blades for 50+ years
this is the best sharpening video that I've seen - thank you
I've tried just about every blade sharpening method. This is the only one with which I can get good, consistent results. It also makes balancing easier.
I use the All American Sharpener model 5005. You get a perfect grind on even the worst beat up blades. Like your videos.
Thanks for watching!
I used to use an old blade spindle with new bearings to sharpen my blades, but it wasn't sensitive enough. Even with the grease removed from the bearings. So I switched to the Oregon. It works so well that you can end up staring at the blade waiting for it to settle down. And what I really like is the repeatability. If I have a blade that lands at 5:00, and I pull the blade off the balancer and then re-attach it, it will land at 5:00 again. That's a quality built product. Thanks for the video.
I have been using an angle grinder for blades for so long I can't remember. Balance has been a problem so I will be buying a balancer though your link. I only wish all UA-camrs were so well skilled. I can't post anything negative about this one. I did see a comment about the file being used like a saw but since I don't have to buy the file, well you get it. @ 66 years old, I find very little that impresses me but you did it! Good job young man 😊
Thanks for the kind words!
You can also just use a nail on the wall. Hang your blade, grind a little more on the heavy side. May not work as well as a balancer but it works well. Been 22 years mowing professionally and I've never had to balance them. I check in with a nail but they've never been bad
I have many years with golf course and small engine repairs, I like to square the edge from the bottom first, that way you have a nice clean edge to sharpen.
Yes but then you lose the angle, so in that case you must be sure of your angle or use a jig so it keeps the proper angle
@@EliminatorPerformance you only lose it if you take off to much,I'm also a knife maker, forge and all, you must always start off with a clean edge.
I've been sharpening mower blades for 40 years, and you're exactly right. Get rid of the nicks and burrs first, square the edge, then reestablish the angle. The edge will take care of itself.
It's so funny, you know you're getting old when you start getting lawn Envy
Excellent presentation. Thanks for the clear explanation and excellent video shots.
This is as simple and effective as can be. Very useful information. Thanks.
After reading a lot of reviews on the balancers, and the fact that I like good quality tools, I bought the MAG-1000 balancer, sure I paid more, but it will last longer than I will. The reason I bought that one is I have an electric riding mower, and keeping the blades really balanced is very important since they are mounted directly to the motor, unlike a 30.00 spindle, those motors are more like 300.00, and out-of-balance blades can cause the bearing to wallow out the motor housing. ps, in the MAG-1000 info, it shows how to really balance a blade, by checking horizontal and vertical, yep, just horizontal is fairly good, but having both means it is really balanced. It didn't make sense to me until I used it a bit. What that amounts to, if the hole in the blade was slightly off center, you can balance horizontally, but not vertically, and yes, I have run across blades like that., eash enough to grind a bit off the back of the heavy side and have it perfectly balanced. Sort of like a car tire, if you only balanced it east to west, you could have a bumpy ride. And while the MAG-1000 has a couple of more expensive balancers, like with a carbide taper or one that is much more sensitive to movement, for me, the plain unit works great, but don't mount it at a door as I did, when the wind blows, it will keep the blade moving.
I use a grinder. Have done so for years. It may tempet it a bit but uts less involved. No complaints
You explained things very thoroughly! I've learned alot watching your video! Thank you! Have a Blessed day!
😃🙏🏻❤️🙋♂️🕊
This is a really great video. Watching you get those rock dings out of the blade was oddly satisfying to watch. Thanks so much for sharing with us
Thanks Tony!
Considering getting the Oregon balancer. Just bought a property with over 5 acres and blades go dull after each mowing. I was hoping blades would last a season staying sharp, but I was just beating the grass after the first mowing. Every small engine repair and JD dealership is at least seven weeks behind in service and you have to pay for pickup or buy a trailer to deliver if you want to have anyone sharpen or change blades. Last fall JD charged $300 for p/u and a set of new blades and oil change so I bought an Oregon blade sharpener and just doing the sharpening and maintenance myself.
They're definitely worth it, even brand new blades come out of balance which is wild. Sometimes it's just the sticker on one side that throws them off, other times I have to remove a significant amount of metal.
Flap disc really works best and faster, love the new balance tool
Lots of new blades are out of balance also
Like 80-90% of the blades we get are out of balance, usually because of the sticker they put on them which I don't think I mentioned in the video!
Where on earth do you people find that a flap sander is faster? It is only as fast as a grinding disc at first. It slows down quickly from that speed but a grinding disc keeps cutting.AND IS FIVE TIMES CHEAPER. DUH!!!
Good video. I have a 2005 42" lawn tractor in the Arizona high desert, so I cut weeds and tumbleweeds as opposed to grass. So far I've used a bench grinder to re-sharpen my blades, and they get pretty beaten up by rocks as well. However, I do have an electric hand grinder and a bench vise, and have decided to use that instead from now on.
It’s all anyone needs to keep it sharp and most of the time the blades are worn completely out
Well our tumble weeds are growing in West Texas this week
Man knows his stuff. Good video.
You don't need a razor sharp blade for cutting grass. You need a properly angled bevel, no nicks, and good balance. Blades are always going to be dull on the cutting edge after one lawn anyway. The proper angled bevel is what's important.
True... That razor edge will be gone first cut anyway. I just bring them down to a 'near' razor edge and call it good. I don't worry about grinding back to take all the nicks out either, that is only wasting good metal. If I can get say 85% of the edge to a 'near' razor, it's a win. Unless of course the nicks are really huge... much judgement call goes on when sharpening a blade.
If blade has serious chips then first grind cutting edge at 90* to the flat, then proceed to grind the proper cutting angle onto the cutting edge. Saves time and gives superior results. Cutting metal at the bevel angle is time consuming and builds a lot of heat. Nice video, quite well done.
Yes, the only reason I don't grind a 90° is because I don't have the blade grinding "jig" or tool that allows me to set the proper angle. By doing it this way, it's a bit more time consuming, but it allows me to follow the angle that's already on the blade.
Hey, this was pretty good. Simple explanations and clear pronunciation. New sub...
This is awesome. I have been looking for a video that Oregon blade balancer worked. I appreciate your time regarding this bit of the video
Best thing I ever bought, that old plastic (even the aluminum) pedestal one sucks lol cheers
Thorough description,well done! I use my lawn equipment dealer for mower related service. Right now I have a Stihl 20" RMA 510 battery mower,which I love. The owner's manual says to torque the blade when re-installing it. I don't have a torque wrench. Can't I just turn the bolt till it feels tight? That is all we did with past lawnmower blades.
Yes that should be fine, as long as you recheck it occasionally. I have a battery powered impact that tightens them on on number 1 til they don't move then number 2 quickly. On riding mowers it's number 2 until they don't move, then quick zap on number 3
Helpful video. Worked great on my blades. Thanks for the tips.
Straight up awesome and In depth explanation
Thanks for watching Rusty!
I've used a belt sander with 50 grit belt to sharpen blades for many years. Far easier to get the edge angle correct and not end up with unwanted nicks and gouges. As for balancing, John Deere recommends hanging the blade from a nail held sideways in a vise. I have a balancing cone, but they don't work well with the JD blades. The nail setup they recommend worked perfect on my D105 with a 42" deck. Page 45 in their D105 - D170 tractors operators manual pdf.
I've used that nail or screwdriver method too. It seemed to work until I used the wall-mounted balancer. Found out that the blade was not balanced after all. Just my opinion, and your mileage may vary.
😅lplkp😅
I use a grinding disk, they last much longer and cut faster. I grind the cutting edge perpendicular to the back side of the blade to get the notches out, this gives you a flat edge to grind to. I used to grind the cutting edge to balance but that removes more material than is needed to balance. Grind the end of the blade, less material removed is needed to balance, also if you do not have to resharpen the blade every time you check balance.
@kermitbearden. Good reply! You are one of the few people on this video who knows the right, cheapest, fastest way to sharpen blades. The other morons worry about heat, shineyness, razor sharpness, etc. too much. They work up a sweat for nothing with their stupid files and such.
Great video/info/delivery...thank you Canuck!
Fantastic video ! thank you my friend ! greetings from Portugal
Cheers from Canada
I bought the same balancer and really really like it
Absolutely one of the best tools we have in the shop but have found we spend much more time working on the blades to balance them since the magnetic balancer is so accurate.
The real key to lawnmower blades is sharpening them often! The key to that is having your tools and procedures readily available, so that the job doesn't take long.
I bought a Ridgid 18 volt impact wrench to make blade removal easier on my zero turn. Made quick work of changing them
The Oregon balancer is great, but quite expensive. The cone balancer can be used effectively if run a few layers of masking tape around the cone. You then press in the center blade hole so that it fits square. It maye take a few tries but once done--you are all set. You will never have to do it again. This is far better than a nail in the wall.
Excellent demonstration, thanks! New sub.
Awesome video brother! I am going to look into getting one of these. Thanks for all of your efforts. Keep it up!
The balancer works awesome, best one I've had forsure. Thanks for watching!
THANKS very much for a very advanced informative video
Good video and the Oregon balancer is the best. All debris must be removed from the blade the Oregon is that sensitive. We mainly sharpen at 30 degrees and put on a sharp one sided edge which our customers like because they all comment that our blades make their lawns look better than ever before.
Thanks for watching!
Interesting that the manufacturers recommend between 25-30 degrees. I sharpen at 45 degrees. The edge lasts longer, and the angle still makes a nice cut. Think razor blade angle vs cold chisel. Maybe they recommend that angle so they need sharpening more often, which means they sell more blades.
@@steadyeddie7453 The steeper 45 degree angle if more durable but creates less lift and is ideal for heavy foliage or sandy areas. Side discharging only since less lift does not mulch well.
No, the Magna-Matic Mag-1000 is the best. The Oregon is just a cheaper knock-off.
@@staceyward777 100% correct but for the cost savings i will go with the Oregon all day. We may do a video on it since it is slightly out of balance and we needed to add a few pieces of tape as weight to balance it properly. Compared to the pyramid balancers this is like night and day no comparison. Accuracy is unbelieveable and did you know that 90% of new blades are out of balance and some by a lot.
Good info!! I've been using the aluminum cone to balance blades but I know what you mean with the different shaped center holes. They don't always fit very good. I'll be looking into getting that Oregon blade balancer!!
those cone ones aren't anywhere near accurate, check out the MagnaMatic balancer, been around forever, still make them and still regarded as the best
magnamatic also sells adapters to adapter the hole patterns to their balancers
I soak my lawnmower blades in a 13 gallon wastepaper basket full of water and the caked on grass dissolves so that the grass can be easily scraped off using a plastic scraper and a hand-held wire brush. You should have mentioned that when you try to balance the blade, you should only remove material from the back side of the blade. Instead of using a $90 to $150 balancer, I use a long slim finishing nail hammered into a 2"x4"...the slimmer the nail, the better. My new Honda blades came with a 25 degree sharpening angle which I measured with my digital angle gauge.
You are correct you can only remove material from the angled side and only deburr with a file like we showed. The water tip is a good idea but normally we just scrape and flap grind remove debris since we do not have time to wait too much equipment getting done per day since we offer one to two day service and repair. You may be surprised if you take one of your nail checked blades to a shop with a magnetic balancer to just compare (likely will show out of balance)
Yes, nail in the wall good enough for a balancer. All that other expensive balancer stuff is for Drama Queens.
Great instructional video!
I just welded kitchen knifes to my old blade works mint
Wondering if a bread knife would work better lol
@@EliminatorPerformance mom gets mad when the bread knife goes missing she never notices a few steak knifes
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Ginsu knives work best.
But mine requires left handed edges. Got any suggestions?
Great video! Thanks for sharing. 👍 😊
Nice video, very good suggestions.Flapper disk does a real nice job of sharpening blades and balancing is important.
Thanks for watching!
The Oregon balancer is similar to how we balance airplane props. Super easy to tell if your out.
awesome in depth video!
I got a used 4 1/2" Milwaukie angle grinder, a couple 40 grit flap disc's, & a lil plastic pedastal blade balancer this spring. ALL WORTH IT!! I must have saved myself around $400.00 this mowing season.
What are your thoughts on the All American Blade Sharpener?
I have been kicking around the idea of investing in one of those, to help hold those perfect angles.
I can't see myself spending the money, but probably because we're so used to using the grinder over all these years. You definitely get a perfect, or near perfect grind with the All American though!
Knock offs on Amazon are down to $40
Supporting with full watch time &👍
Stay well, Joe Z
Thanks Joe!
I'm new to your video's. I'm down here in the lower 48, way down, like South Carolina. Anyway, awesome video. I've been watching your videos and have picked up a few nice tips. Keep up the great service.
Thanks for watching James, and cheers from Ontario Canada!
I'm 'way down' further than you, Florida, and our ground is nothing but sand. I live in Spring Hill, and it should be renamed Sand Hill.
Don't forget, it's a lawnmower blade, not a chefs knife! That Oregon 42-047 blade balancer cost me $90 and I believe it lists for about $150 here in Canada. I charge $12 to sharpen and balance blades, so after doing 8 blades, this tool has paid for itself!
@@rfcasey How much do you get for that? And to ship ?
@@rfcasey Who sells a magnetic washer?
I get some new blades for under 10 bucks each.
@@kenhilson786 Razor Blades? You can sharpen a blade at least a half a dozen or more times. You could invest into one of your $10 blades and a balancing kits for $10, a total investment $20, and sharpen that blade 6 times. This comes to $3.33 a blade and keep the balancing kit for future sharpenings Or you can spend $60 on 6 blades. Your choice .
Thank you
Great vid, just found your channel. I have a couple different methods that I use to achieve a sharp and balanced mower blade. I sometimes change the edge angle and I will sometimes extend the cutting edge length by creating an edge in the blunt area in the blade.
It's never made sense to me why they only sharpen the outside ends. I do same as you.
Grind the notched edges square first, whack it onto the bench grinder, don’t mess about !
@@garychandler4296 tip speed
Nobody else on YT gives better to-the-point info with zero BS than you do, man.
Appreciate all of your content, and I'm looking up that Oregon blade balancer as soon as I am done typing this...... Lol
Thanks for the kind words Paul!
Great video bud I’m now subscribed 👍
Great tutorial
Thanks for sharing.
If you're handy with 3D modelling, you could model and 3D print an insert for those odd shaped holes so they fit properly on the balancer.
That's a great idea!
When balancing an odd blade put a big flat washer on the balancer first then put the blade on top!
Thanks Robert but there still is the possibility of being slightly off centre causing an issue we prefer the magnetic balancer only the modified 5 point star blade in the video is a problem on it.
Yep it works and I’m tired of buying more junk they keep coming up with
😅
Thank you Great idea.
Amazed at how the grinding wheel sharpens the blade. I noticed that you did not use it on the flat bottom...is there any time where that is necessary? Great video, thanks
This gave my inventors mindset an idea: what about a BALL & pedestal, the ball drilled 3/4 thru. There's your universal fitment! Pedestal would be a long screw thru a piece of plywood for a base.
Oregon makes EVERYTHING quality, I use a lot of their stuff.
I have rough property and it grows rocks, so I sharpen my blades at 30 degrees so they hold up better. They get bent a lot, and I've straightened many with a 2x4 and a 10 lb. sledge. After 3-4 times you just have get a new one, as they get too disfigured. It would be nice if someone would 4 a Bush Hog type blade. I haven't because of the star centers but next blade may be an old blade center welded to a thick steel disc with 2 bolt holes and a couple of half blade to pivot at the bolts (grade 5 or better). Voila!
Make a spacer with a bullseye spirit level to top the lot and its foolproof!
Thanks. Actually I’ve been wondering what the rod that comes with the Oregon doofer was for! Til now.
I might buy the balancer this spring
It's worth the $
Well I got it and love it 😍
Makes life easier and faster
You can also use a pencil though the hole to balance the blade. Also use a wire wheel on a drill to clean the blade and use a file to sharpen the blade.
Oh how's did I miss this one.. great video mate.. I use a flappy disk too.. it does the job just great
Absolutely, cheers Mick!
If you dont have the fancy balancers I just suspend the blade with some fine wire or string through the center and use a small 1 " plastic spirit level. Works fine for +/- 15%
I have a magna matic 9000 Blade grinder and balancer they are great.
Yes I've seen those, little pricey but definitely saves time and you get a very nice cut! Thanks for watching!
What I see a lot of people doing is they are mowing their grass so short, I describe is as tilling the lawn. Unless you have grass that was laid down originally from sod, every lawn has small stones and debris in their lawn. I will never understand why people mow their grass less than 2 1/2 inches. Most lawn experts recommend 3 inches or to never cut more than 1 to 1 1/2 inches off your grass when you mow it.
I cut my grass at 1 1/2" with Ego mower and reel mower, and follow 1/3 rule. my grass is green and healthy in the heat of Summer. as long as you feed, water, mow, consistently, there shouldn't be an issue to cut low. many of regular home owners just don't have that much of time. so I guess to survive the Summer heat and maintain good looking grass with less maintenance, I get 2 1/2" ~ 3" HOC is recommended.
Save money an put you a over sized washer behind the blade or put over sized washer on first.. then put your blade on. It works
First time trying to sharpen on some older blades I have. My question is, how do I really know if they are good to go? I know they aren’t supposed to be razor sharp. Just trying to see if I’m doing this right
You need to try and balance them to make sure you took off the same amount on both sides of the blade. Then your good to go. Some people don't balance their blades at all
Great presentation!! How much is a blade anyway?
9:00 the plain fact is that the sharpened blade will have old debris attached to it after even a single use so balancing can do only so much.
I've always thought that myself as I am sharpening mine. I have a Honda with the double blade so not easy to remove that dried up debris.
A good thought but if it is properly balanced then there will be no vibration when you fire it up and even though it is picking up debris i have never found that to create vibration issue
@@frankm2588 removing debris. I use either brass hand brush, or if it's too bad - the angle grinder with a wire cup.
Think i'll be getting one of those Oregon Balancers 😁
They work great!
It’s just simply a great tool 😊
I have done my balancing just like my father did. He screwed a screw in the bench and put the blade on the screw and it would balance it's self if it was properly ground.
Yup I use a nail I put on my bench, works great for balancing.
Excellent video. Thank you.
10:00 You can also use the conical tip of a used Sivester Rocket.
Drive a nail into a piece of wood. Pinch off the head and put the tip of the rocket on it, swinging freely. Then you can balance a lawnmower blade very precisely
After the blade is razor sharp you need to "dubb" over the razor edge with a stone otherwise the edge will simply roll over
Are brand new blades ready to be used or do they need to be sharpened?
They seem dull to me.
Also how fine of an edge are you making when you sharpen the bkades?
They will have a sharp edge painted over to protect the consumer and shipping people from being cut. But we've found that the sticker puts the blades out of balance. We sharpen and balance all new blades
That's because you DON'T need a razor sharp blade to cut grass! Have you ever sharpened a blade and then cut one lawn with it? Guess what? The blade isn't razor sharp anymore! It's dull/rounded. What a good blade needs the proper angled bevel, no nicks, and good balance. Ever notice that a brand new blade cuts better than a freshly sharpened blade? Not sure how these guys keep a proper angle bevel with a hand grinder! We've used a RBG 3410, it's a proper blade sharpener.
@@JarrodF-y9ikeeping the abglr takes practice and lots of mess ups lol. Similar to whetstone
Do you have the Amazon part number of the discs?
www.amazon.ca/Premium-Zirconia-Alumina-Conical-10-Pack/dp/B07FSY8X57/ref=sxts_rp_s_1_0?content-id=amzn1.sym.3c87dcb0-f7b8-4bc0-80db-875cb9321528%3Aamzn1.sym.3c87dcb0-f7b8-4bc0-80db-875cb9321528&crid=1L15E0GWLNF4B&cv_ct_cx=flap+disc&keywords=flap+disc&pd_rd_i=B07FSY8X57&pd_rd_r=e9b947fb-e640-49e2-87d7-151e9846c3a6&pd_rd_w=SGYYC&pd_rd_wg=8RYNd&pf_rd_p=3c87dcb0-f7b8-4bc0-80db-875cb9321528&pf_rd_r=68S3S5P62XX8TW8K2GR1&psc=1&qid=1655766602&sprefix=flap+disc%2Caps%2C133&sr=1-1-cb9ed203-36f2-497c-b389-dfec57adb781
Before I sharpen a mower blade, I clean the blade first by removing grass and heavy rust and then check for balance and sharpen
My son flies more control planes. And we balance our props on a similar system. But after we get the prop this sit horizontal. Then we work on the hub of a prop. With the prop is about to put it at any position 45 degrees up and down whatever and sit there not move. If one side is heavier then we put a bit of weight usually just couple drops of super glue on the lighter side, or sand a little bit of The hub on the heaviside. I've seen engines rip out of their mount cos that props not balance. My son was doing a bit of pylon racing those planes do 300 km an hour. And out of balance prop can destroy your motor.
I balance it on a weldingrod, works good for me.
Dont recommend for commercial use 😅
If it works, it works. Thanks for watching!
Eliminator Performance As a homeowner I’ve balanced for many decades on a hacksaw blade in a vice. For homeowner use on a single blade machine that’s probably good enough. Now as someone getting into small engine work I realize my method is not nearly precise enough.
thx for the infos, may is it possible to get a review of your sunglasses ? thx
William Painter Lume, gradient tint, dark up top with hardly any tint down below. Titanium arms with a light weight plastic front lens frame. They stay on your head when looking down because they're rear weighted. I have an ocular condition (photosensitivity) so I always wear them.
@@EliminatorPerformance wow thanks for the infos, believe me or not i got a similar problem even when there are clouds around, light is too intense, thx also for all the good work on your videos
Thanks for the kind words, I believe they're also polarized so it helps cut down glare
If the blade hole is too large to fit securely on the stepped cone balancer, I put a piece of electric tape over the top of the cone and then install the blade. The tape thickness centers the blade.
Remember formula for weight equals mass times acceleration so just a difference of an ounce or two between the two halves , the speed of the blade will make it seem like you have a weight attached to the blades end of a half pound or more.
I agree. "close enough" usually equals vibration. Especially when you have a 2 or 3 blade deck. With such a quality balancer why not go for perfect. It only takes literally one minute to go from within 15 degrees to perfect.
That should be in all mower manuals, too many people are impossible to convince it matters.
I like yer good balancer, the Oregan. T Y sir.
So if it’s bent than you need a new one? Or can you bent it back in place?
Replace it!
The old blade can be used to repair or brace the deck, good material and welds easily
I have a Honda Commercial Micro Cut Mulching Lawn Mower with two blades. There's no center hole to balance on, just two bolt holes and the bolts attach to the clutch assembly. No one in these parts will touch it and can't balance it.
What is your balancer called Sir? Can you put a link for it please?
I've always tried to grind down an even amount of passes on each side, then repeat until sharp, put it on the balancer. How much is the fancy balancer? The cone shape balancer is cheap. If your just a homeowner, not in buisness
I think the balancer is like $80, well worth it for us but yes for a homeowner might not be worth it. Although if you have a couple mowers, maybe worth the cost. It does work great!
I would think you could get the correct size washer and use it as a buffer pad to lay the weird shape hole on. This way the cheap balancer still works. Just saying
The state of that grinding, scrubbing is usually inexperienced users, it is no good you get low and high spots, you need nice clean passes start to end one continuous motion, working polishing stainless steel for years gives you that knowledge, look how uneven your results are it's from s rubbing, start then end at end point no stopping
Never sharpen a lawn mower blade razor sharp.. sharpen them to about 25,000 radius and a 30° angle use the solid 4 1/2 inch grinding wheels they last a lot longer when grinding out the Knicks and dents...😮
I would lay a washer down first on the pedestal balancer and then put the blade on top. Nice job though!
( too bad they didn’t call it a pyramid balancer)
Yea I've actually tried that but the issue is still centering the blade on the washer lol it's a PITA but like I showed, it is possible. Thanks for watching!
That doesn't help at all because you still have to eyeball the centering of the blade hole.
Great video
You could possibly glue a fender washer on the small balancer when trying to balance blade with star cluster !
You would need a washer that fits perfectly inside the star cluster with an ID that matches the OD of one of the cone diameters. The magnetic balancer is so much easier.
What is the cost of the Oregon blade measurement tool?
I paid $90 and I believe it lists for $150 Canadian
Great video!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Nice Vid !
Great Info. !
Thx !
Interesting video
Flap sanding discs don't sand fast very long. Grinding discs are much cheaper and give results faster. And don't grind off the edge of the blade either. Grind towards the edge to keep from causing metal from forming a thin rolled feathered edge. You don't need to debur the edge with a file then.
PRO!👍
What disc are you using to sharpen?
Nice video
Thanks for watching!
When balancing could you use the back edge to remove additional material and not touch the already sharpened edge?
Yes you could if it did not need that much more removed to balance it but in all reality removing some from the cutting edge towards the centre hole is so much better if you did not want to touch the area already ground. Most of our customers prefer a sharp edge for a better quality cut but the rule is that the cutting edge should have a flat on the edge to prevent chipping from stones etc. (This flat is very small)