I know. Plus, a well maintained chisel doesn't take long to touch up. I think his target audience is the same as the people he said buy a chisel and use it until it becomes a screwdriver can opener.
If I took out all my chisels I inherited and laid them out like yours, I probably have double. AND they look just like that too. I am learning how to use and renew them. Thank you for your videos.
@@MikeTaylorToolworks have you done a video in a similar vein on sharpening drills? All I have is a drill press and a bench grinder and it's all a bit hit and miss getting a sharp even cutting face. Most of the time, I'm out on site and drill bits do get abused and need some tlc. Thanks 🙂
Thank you 🙏😊 When you have some skill you don’t need a lot of gear. After getting general sharping knowledge and practice - I’ve sharpened friends dull axe 🪓 when camping 🏕️ last month with just a couple of different rough stones I’ve found on site - and finished it on a stone with a smashed coal from campfire 🔥 (kind of like 1000 grit). It was shining almost like a mirror with few imperfections🪞That was pretty satisfying 😎 Felt like 1000 b.c.
That jig you used in your vise at the end is very similar to a miter jack. Nice video. I spent many hours refurbishing a found pitted buck bros. ½" gouge years ago. I used progressive sandpaper, wooden dowels & a wooden form I made for the back of the gouge.
Jigs make you a slave if you depend of them. Don't get me wrong, I use jigs and I higly value them, I find them particularly useful for beginners as the result they can get with the jig helps them setting a standard about the level of perfection that you should not get below if you aim for quality in your woodworking. They are also useful for already proficient woodworkers when a repetitive work has to be done, like cutting many dovetails or chamfering multiple pieces with a chisel. But to be able to reach the same level of perfection without the help of the jig is also very important as there are situations where the jig is not available or not suited for that particular work (i.e. paring the end of a piece at an unusual compound angle) and situations where to be able to do the task without loosing time to pick the right jig is faster. In those situations who has honed his tecnique and eye can do the task quickly and with an optimal result, who has only relied on the jig as a crouch, as an excuse to not hone his skill is completely lost. Build your jigs, use them, but never depend on them.
Great video, thank you, if blackish stain after soaking in vinegar is an issue hit it with high pressure water, removes immediately, must dry right away to prevent flash rusting, being a member of the pensioner brigade time is of no worry to me, I would round up all local/mates chisels, soak them for at least 24 hrs, (been using vinegar to remove rust for about 200 years 🙂, most satisfying for sure) clean and sharpen chisels on weekend afternoon then invite owners around for BBQ evening. 🙂doesn't get better than that.
Your video is the best on UA-cam, for the average workshop, where a fella wants to bring the old chisels back to working order without spending a ton of money. The other systems are just way out of reach for most of us.
Agreed! I have tried various methods over the years to sharpen my chisels (including taking them to a "professional") without success. I could never get them truly sharp. As soon as I saw this video (and system), I thought, "How brilliant!" and ordered a kit immediately. I built the jig from the downloadable plans and as soon as my kit arrived, I was ready to go. I sharpened all of my chisels in short order - probably better than new. That abrasive is really something else.
Thanks very much for a very good video. I have to admit that I was getting a bit impatient with the length of the introduction but I'm glad I waited until you got to the practicalities...so thanks again!
I'm so happy with this system and it solved lots of problems for me. I no longer need a dedicated area in my small shop to sharpen my tools and don't have to waste so much time and money on all that comes with sharpening to 16000. Sometimes you gotta go down that road before you figure out its just not necessary I suppose. Anyone wanna buy some used shapton glass stones?
Always like to hear mention of Stanley Tools. A grand-uncle of mine by the name of Potter was the company head accountant was their chief accountant. Still have his humble tool box and many of the well used tools he kept in it. Used and abused them all as a kid. Sat in on this channel trying to find the best way of restoring all and passing it on to my grandson so he too can repeat tool abuse & attonement : )
Good stuff! When I was first buying woodworking tools I picked up a new set of Craftsman chisels. Not great, but good. A few years later they were in need of sharpening. My daughter's father-in-law was a sort of professional handyman/maintenance guy. I don't remember where he worked, but he was the one who showed up when this or that needed fixing. He took my chisels away and brought them back sharp. He hadn't asked, which I wasn't pleased about, but the real problem was that he ground both sides of the bevel. Yes, that nice sharp cutting edge is nowhere near the back surface of the chisel. He didn't understand why I was unhappy, after all they were sharp! They are still around somewhere, but I bought a set of Marple chisels, as I have no way to remove that much steel without getting them too damned hot.
Someone sent me 88 plane blades that had been dropped by the hardener and all were chipped some as deep as 1/8 inch. I re ground the primary bevel on the lot in an hour and none got hot at all. The cubitron slices through steel and does not generate much heat.
@@MikeTaylorToolworks Interesting! Of course a chisel has a lot more steel behind the cutting edge than a thin plane blade, but still that opens up some possibilities. Thanks!
I am totally blown away by this video. This is precisely why I designed the internet. I am a retired IT professional that spends most of my time now in my garage/shop. I love tools. Not only did you show how to bring an unwanted tool back to life, you showed the world what it is good for. Absolutely amazing and kudos to you. The Universe provides for us and you are the instrument of the learning. Peace!
I bought your sharpening kit after seeing it on Stumpy Nubs' channel, had it shipped over to England. It's amazing! My chisels weren't rusty, but definitely needed sharpening. I knocked up 25 and 30 degree jigs while waiting for delivery, so straight to the shed on arrival. I started with some cheap chisels and moved on to my better ones, and it did a fantastic job. I'll keep my Veritas Mk1 for re-honing the second bevel for now, but that may end up on ebay.
Like this easy sharpening tips instead of all the advanced methods whit expensive equipment. As a hobbyist I don't have the space and money to spend 100$ on sharpening stones . Thanks 🙏🍻
Ground glass, wet and dry, wire fleece, Trend diamond sharpening jig for both 25 and 30 degree bevels. Permanent marker pen on the bevels to confirm metal is ground true. Works without power tool and avoids having to build jig for sharpening. More expensive overall but repeatable results. Chisel can be honed every now and again depending on what stock you are working on. And works on block plane irons too if working across grain. Trend Mk2 kit under $100.
Nice video! Great to see a good American made chisel brought back to exacting usefulness. You have a nice shop, an inspiration to see your jigs as well.
Excellent video. Thank you! I can already see where I'm going to have to get this system set up, including the jigs. :). I'm going to assume you could create a plane blade sharpening jig by using a 30deg. angle on the drill press jig instead of 25. Thank you for showing the vinegar rust remover trick! What a great idea. Just a side note you can also use the vinegar soak on old sink disposers, even if you're on septic. Works a treat to rehab a maybe not well-used disposer. Us folks on septic don't use the disposers much, but they will rust up from time to time. Every so often, it's good to throw some white vinegar down the drain and let it soak a bit, then rinse with warm water. Even makes the disposer smell a bit better.
Thanks for the kind words. I approach plane blades a bit different. When using the discs for blades 2" and wider the edge produces is out a few thou which can be a problem on a smoother making 1 thou thick shaving. My hack is to grind the primary bevel at 25 degrees and then use a honing guide at 30 degrees on the 400 grit disc on the chisel back flattening plate. This produces a straight edge. I them go to the leather disc and polish. This works great.
My only concern is the amount of heat generated when grinding the primary bevel. It looked awfully hot. If the steel gets hot enough to lose its hardness it will still sharpen to an extremely fine cutting edge, but that edge will quickly go dull in use.
I forgot to mention in the video that the chisel does not get hot when using the cubitron. The cubitron slices through the steel generating almost no heat. I'm able to touch the tip with no fear of removing the temper.
I notice that he touches it near the bevel with his bare fingers after grinding which leads me to believe that it is not hot enough to destroy the temper. A chisel placed on the dashboard of a car on a hot day would be much hotter than this. Yet you never see a warning come with a new chisel saying "Caution : Never leave this chisel in an enclosed vehicle on a hot sunny day. It will destroy the temper! " At least that is my take on it for what it is worth.
I just purchased one of your unhandeld Narex marking knives, and I was wondering if you could tell me what size drill bit is needed to drill holes for the pins? I don't have any bits that small, and I want to make sure that I order the right size the first time around. Thanks.
Got it figured out. I had to pick up a numbered bit set because I had it narrowed down to either a #43 or a #42, and HB had a 60pc set on clearance for less than the two single bits would have cost... it turned out to be #43 Putting it together was fun and didn't take long at all, even after making several mistakes along the way. I may have to buy some of your unhandeld Narex chisels next.
An 80 on the Bess tester! That's creeping up on actual razor blade territory. Personally, I love the contrast of the highly polished surfaces with the patina from the vinegar bath. & watching those end grain cuts at the end was strangely satisfying.
I always sharpen a chisel and I learned how to do that from the Woodright's Shop that used to be on PBS on Saturdays. Also, Flitz brand metal polish will remove a good amount of rust from all iron based metals as well as other metals that can be polished including silver.
For pitting that still has the rust intact on it you might look into using electrolysis to plate that rust back onto the metal in the place it is in contact with it to minimize and repair the pitting, then do your grinding,. I use a bench sander with a good flat plate and an old belt, wet the belt to keep it cool , have water or mineral spirits handy to keep it cool, switch to a finer belt or even put an arch under the belt for a slight hollow ground which will help in hand sharpening later on. Good job with the sand paper, though.
I sharpened my brother in laws chisel. Being a pro he was skeptical. I gave it to him and went indoors for a sheet of paper to show its sharpness. Before i got back he had already nearly cut his thumb off. Said it was the sharpest he has come across in 45 years. Now i just need to learn how to do it quicker
I'd imagine most weekend wood workers do not have a drill press either to go with the specialty chisel sharpening gear. They might have a wood planer or jointer though!
Mike, as usual, great videos, enjoy watching all of them in the innovations that you bring to The Woodworking world so well done. Good concept! Would be nice if the sharpening ramp was adjustable! Note: if you use a drill, press a lot, look at investing into a keyless Chuck. You'll love your drill press even more! First upgrade to a drill press everyone should make!
@@TaylorToolworks I think was saying "you can shim up the base of the jig with blue tape". He showed this in a previous video on the drill press sharpening system.
What a great system! And knowing that Stumpy Nubs endorses it, he recently did a video raving about, just confirms what I can see from your video. Excellent job. My goodness there are a lot of whiney (wingey for those of you crying bollocks) commenters out there. I guess it’s easier to complain about a video than make one. Just subbed to your channel. Been buying your products for a while. Love your customer service.
I measured the temp with a digal thermometer and the temp at the tip never got above 110 degrees. Need to exceed 600 degrees to remove temper. Thesecret is the Cubitron whick slice through steel and do not generate heat.
I was always taught to strop away from the cutting edge. Have you tried bringing the beveled edge to the spinning strop from the other direction, so there's no risk of the edge cutting in the leather, potentially ripping it from your hand and sending it flying across the room?
You may not be able to see in the vid but the disc is spining away from the cutting as you suggested. I drop the bevel on the disc and then raise just a but to get a nice polished secondary bevel.
@@MikeTaylorToolworks - Yeah, must be the nature of video, because the disc appears to be spinning the other way. I was wondering how you even pulled that off! So, it makes sense the disc was actually turning the other direction.
I also had the idea of using a drill press as a DIY Work Sharp 3000 a few years ago. I concluded that it would be too dangerous to use but this has put my mind at ease! Good work, especially with the jigs :) I'll probably order me one of these if you ship to the UK.
Nothing compares with the Worksharp. There is no going back. I’ve tried the drill press system. It works ok, but the Worksharp is so much better especially if you are just touching up an edge.
@@MikeTaylorToolworks I can imagine, I have heard nothing but good things about these Cubitron discs. Also, I think the WS3000 is closer to 8x the cost. You can get a lot of Cubitron discs in different grits for that initial outlay!
I'm with David Charlesworth in that I don't think an abrasive sheet method exists that doesn't cause dubbing to some degree. Going frame by frame, the reflection of the overhead light at 13:27 gives me the impression the front of the back is slightly rounded but I could easily be mistaken. This happens with repeated lapping on leather even without the assistance of power tools so I'm curious to see a clearer example of the backs and whether or not this method accelerates any dubbing and bellies forming. For example, how do these chisels look after using this method and then lapping them further on a high grit stone that's guaranteed flat? Would you then get a scratch pattern develop uniformly across the same surface area or are new highs and lows revealed? Not shitting on the method - it strikes me as clever. I'm just sceptical and keen to learn more. Thanks.
Very good advice. Orthogonal sharpness is quite different to slicing sharpness though. Your tester scale measures orthogonal sharpness, but your chamfer test relies on the micro sawtooth pattern left by the grit, which is not orthoganal. A saw will slice just fine, but fail on your sharpness tester. Slicing versus cutting.
Excellent demonstration. One thing of note about the drill press. Mine has a morse tapered collet holding the chuck in place, meaning pressure fit, no screws securing it. I once had the chuck drop out using downward pressure. A scary moment. Just a thought.
I know there are people who get passionate about the fancy, expensive equipment they buy to keep their fancy, expensive chisels razor-sharp, but this system seems appropriate for people like me who buy rusty chisels at yard sales, then leave them laying around to collect more rust 'cuz we don't know how to sharpen them right and can't afford fancy, expensive tools....
Brilliant!! Nice set up! and it only took 24 hrs 4 min 13 sec. Why soak it? Won't the grinder just grind off the rust in seconds and take you to bare metal?
It would jsut take longe to strop tha back as there is more material to address. The tip of the bevel is so small it takes just a few seconds. Good question.
I'm empress. however I'm more interested in jig and the drill press grinding stone? I think it would be more interesting in how you made your tools! make a video on the process.
Can you reuse vinegar for rust removal? For instance keep a sealed jar of it and pop something in every so often to clean up? Or is it a one time use thing really? Thanks
Yes. The acetic acid in vinegar will react with rust to form iron acetate. As long as there's still unreacted acetic acid left in the solution, it will keep removing rust. Fun tip: once the vinegar has been used up and you just have iron acetate in your solution, you have something known as vinegaroon. If you put it on oak, it reacts with the tannic acid in the wood to turn it black.
Great tutorial! I would do an extra step for ascetics is after soaking and wiping the metal is mask the handle where the metal meets. Then run a wire brush (on a drill or bench grinder) to brighten the metal, then start sharpening the chisel. Again well made and thanks for putting this video together - now more importantly, I know what “Right” looks like and how it’s supposed to be done.
I'm not really sure what the purpose was for timing this because changing out tools and buff wheels, moving to stations to hand sand, that all takes time which you omitted for whatever reason. However, what i really got from your video was how to sharpen my chisels so thank you for that.
Please use the links below to purchase your kit and accessories! Chisel Back Preparation Kit: rb.gy/0e6ag Drill Press Sharpening System: rb.gy/kclco Drill Press Sharpening System Accessories: rb.gy/202mx Replacement 3M Cubitron II Stikit Discs: rb.gy/6utoa
I got the very same looking red chisel - inherited it - but I don't have the tools you have,,, However, I knew it was worth saving this old thing, and other tools too...
Your plans say the ramp should be at least 3” long, but with some of my older chisels that’s too long. Would I run into any problems if I make the ramp 2.5”?
This is a great video, and next time I am trying to use the vinegar tip for sure. Just one of your statements in the beginning: "It might take up to thirty minutes or even half an hour". Well, IMHO any woodworker not willing to spend an hour (or two or three) restoring an old chisel is not worth it. Woodworking is not about speed, it is about quality. An old chisel is worth ten times more that most modern chisels and hence worth the time restoring. Having said that, I am a bit worried at sharpening the bevel on the drill press, it looks like the edges are getting hot. While I would follow your method, I also would spend some more time on cleaning the bevel in a slower and cooler way, maybe even thirty minutes. 😄
I love the fact that given the title of the video its 18 minutes long 😂
If it were just 4 min would get complaints that it was too short with no explanation.
@@MikeTaylorToolworks😂
❤
I know. Plus, a well maintained chisel doesn't take long to touch up. I think his target audience is the same as the people he said buy a chisel and use it until it becomes a screwdriver can opener.
And in the "5 minute repair" the first step takes 24 hours.
Those of you who timed this do not have enough to do.
If I took out all my chisels I inherited and laid them out like yours, I probably have double. AND they look just like that too. I am learning how to use and renew them. Thank you for your videos.
It is truly a pleasure to see a store / owner that actually understands and caters to the average enthusiast. Thanks.
what a great tutorial! really simple to understand . thank you please keep them coming
This guy is a pro and I learnt a lot from him. Professional from start to finish
Thank you, that's the quickest, most effective, zero bs way of sharpening chisels I've seen.
Thanks
@@MikeTaylorToolworks have you done a video in a similar vein on sharpening drills?
All I have is a drill press and a bench grinder and it's all a bit hit and miss getting a sharp even cutting face. Most of the time, I'm out on site and drill bits do get abused and need some tlc.
Thanks 🙂
Thank you 🙏😊 When you have some skill you don’t need a lot of gear. After getting general sharping knowledge and practice - I’ve sharpened friends dull axe 🪓 when camping 🏕️ last month with just a couple of different rough stones I’ve found on site - and finished it on a stone with a smashed coal from campfire 🔥 (kind of like 1000 grit). It was shining almost like a mirror with few imperfections🪞That was pretty satisfying 😎 Felt like 1000 b.c.
That jig you used in your vise at the end is very similar to a miter jack. Nice video. I spent many hours refurbishing a found pitted buck bros. ½" gouge years ago. I used progressive sandpaper, wooden dowels & a wooden form I made for the back of the gouge.
Awesome tutorial! Love those jigs. Jigs equal perfect repetition! Thanks!
Jigs make you a slave if you depend of them. Don't get me wrong, I use jigs and I higly value them, I find them particularly useful for beginners as the result they can get with the jig helps them setting a standard about the level of perfection that you should not get below if you aim for quality in your woodworking. They are also useful for already proficient woodworkers when a repetitive work has to be done, like cutting many dovetails or chamfering multiple pieces with a chisel. But to be able to reach the same level of perfection without the help of the jig is also very important as there are situations where the jig is not available or not suited for that particular work (i.e. paring the end of a piece at an unusual compound angle) and situations where to be able to do the task without loosing time to pick the right jig is faster. In those situations who has honed his tecnique and eye can do the task quickly and with an optimal result, who has only relied on the jig as a crouch, as an excuse to not hone his skill is completely lost.
Build your jigs, use them, but never depend on them.
Terrific!
Thank you for sharing!
The white vinegar was something I hadn't heard of before! 🙏✌️👍🇬🇧
Great video, thank you, if blackish stain after soaking in vinegar is an issue hit it with high pressure water, removes immediately, must dry right away to prevent flash rusting, being a member of the pensioner brigade time is of no worry to me, I would round up all local/mates chisels, soak them for at least 24 hrs, (been using vinegar to remove rust for about 200 years 🙂, most satisfying for sure) clean and sharpen chisels on weekend afternoon then invite owners around for BBQ evening. 🙂doesn't get better than that.
Thanks for the tip.
Your video is the best on UA-cam, for the average workshop, where a fella wants to bring the old chisels back to working order without spending a ton of money. The other systems are just way out of reach for most of us.
Thanks!!
Agreed! I have tried various methods over the years to sharpen my chisels (including taking them to a "professional") without success. I could never get them truly sharp. As soon as I saw this video (and system), I thought, "How brilliant!" and ordered a kit immediately. I built the jig from the downloadable plans and as soon as my kit arrived, I was ready to go. I sharpened all of my chisels in short order - probably better than new. That abrasive is really something else.
Thanks very much for a very good video. I have to admit that I was getting a bit impatient with the length of the introduction but I'm glad I waited until you got to the practicalities...so thanks again!
Sorry, but just wanted to provide some background. I'm not a YT professional. Thanks for sticking with me to the end.
He wouldn't be able to touch it like that if it got hot enough to damge anything.
I have no other words for this other than _wow..._ well actually I can probably muster a few more. Like "Holy crap!" Suuuuuper impressive 👏👏👏👏👏👏
No wonder your company is known as the best of the best.
You provide excellent content, advice and superior tools and jigs. Guys - good on yuh.🤜🤛👊👍👍
Wow, thanks for the wonderful feedback.
I'm so happy with this system and it solved lots of problems for me. I no longer need a dedicated area in my small shop to sharpen my tools and don't have to waste so much time and money on all that comes with sharpening to 16000. Sometimes you gotta go down that road before you figure out its just not necessary I suppose. Anyone wanna buy some used shapton glass stones?
Glad to hear your mimimizing. I no longer use my sharpenign station either. My shaptons are also for sale.
Really helpful…both the sharpening AND the bevelling jig. Thanks!
You made my day with this easy and smart sharpening trick! I was thinking weeks how to sharpen my old chisels and needed also weeks to sharpen them 😕
Glad I could help!
Always like to hear mention of Stanley Tools. A grand-uncle of mine by the name of Potter was the company head accountant was their chief accountant. Still have his humble tool box and many of the well used tools he kept in it.
Used and abused them all as a kid. Sat in on this channel trying to find the best way of restoring all and passing it on to my grandson so he too can repeat tool abuse & attonement : )
Good stuff!
When I was first buying woodworking tools I picked up a new set of Craftsman chisels. Not great, but good. A few years later they were in need of sharpening. My daughter's father-in-law was a sort of professional handyman/maintenance guy. I don't remember where he worked, but he was the one who showed up when this or that needed fixing. He took my chisels away and brought them back sharp. He hadn't asked, which I wasn't pleased about, but the real problem was that he ground both sides of the bevel. Yes, that nice sharp cutting edge is nowhere near the back surface of the chisel. He didn't understand why I was unhappy, after all they were sharp! They are still around somewhere, but I bought a set of Marple chisels, as I have no way to remove that much steel without getting them too damned hot.
Someone sent me 88 plane blades that had been dropped by the hardener and all were chipped some as deep as 1/8 inch. I re ground the primary bevel on the lot in an hour and none got hot at all. The cubitron slices through steel and does not generate much heat.
@@MikeTaylorToolworks Interesting! Of course a chisel has a lot more steel behind the cutting edge than a thin plane blade, but still that opens up some possibilities. Thanks!
Great and so easy now I can set my chisels which I’ve bee n fighting with for the past few months .Thanks.
I am totally blown away by this video. This is precisely why I designed the internet. I am a retired IT professional that spends most of my time now in my garage/shop. I love tools. Not only did you show how to bring an unwanted tool back to life, you showed the world what it is good for. Absolutely amazing and kudos to you. The Universe provides for us and you are the instrument of the learning. Peace!
"why I designed the Internet" woah there buddy
@jakobvanklinken he is just joking. Everyone knows I designed the internet
Al Gore designed the internet.
@@davearonow65I distinctly recall him saying during the debate vs Bush "I took the initiative in creating the internet"
I bought your sharpening kit after seeing it on Stumpy Nubs' channel, had it shipped over to England. It's amazing! My chisels weren't rusty, but definitely needed sharpening. I knocked up 25 and 30 degree jigs while waiting for delivery, so straight to the shed on arrival. I started with some cheap chisels and moved on to my better ones, and it did a fantastic job. I'll keep my Veritas Mk1 for re-honing the second bevel for now, but that may end up on ebay.
Yer awsome! I never thought of using my 10" drill press, and vinigar, and all you did! Thankyou 👍
First video I've ever seen on this channel and now Subscribed! Thank you for sharing this content with us!
Thanks
Nice. I like your business. Interesting tools and good service on the phone. Thanks.
I have restored 250 chisels..... this video is very good.
Yeah man. Another great tool development for the community. Thanksñ
I am so excited about this. I just received my kit from you. I have already made the sharpening jig. Tomorrow I will move to step 2.
Like this easy sharpening tips instead of all the advanced methods whit expensive equipment. As a hobbyist I don't have the space and money to spend 100$ on sharpening stones .
Thanks 🙏🍻
Ground glass, wet and dry, wire fleece, Trend diamond sharpening jig for both 25 and 30 degree bevels.
Permanent marker pen on the bevels to confirm metal is ground true.
Works without power tool and avoids having to build jig for sharpening.
More expensive overall but repeatable results.
Chisel can be honed every now and again depending on what stock you are working on.
And works on block plane irons too if working across grain.
Trend Mk2 kit under $100.
Very impresive. Thanks for showing
No problem
Nice video! Great to see a good American made chisel brought back to exacting usefulness. You have a nice shop, an inspiration to see your jigs as well.
So satisfying, and no convoluted BS… can’t wait to give all my old dogged up chisels a new lease of life 🙏
Excellent video. Thank you! I can already see where I'm going to have to get this system set up, including the jigs. :). I'm going to assume you could create a plane blade sharpening jig by using a 30deg. angle on the drill press jig instead of 25. Thank you for showing the vinegar rust remover trick! What a great idea. Just a side note you can also use the vinegar soak on old sink disposers, even if you're on septic. Works a treat to rehab a maybe not well-used disposer. Us folks on septic don't use the disposers much, but they will rust up from time to time. Every so often, it's good to throw some white vinegar down the drain and let it soak a bit, then rinse with warm water. Even makes the disposer smell a bit better.
Thanks for the kind words. I approach plane blades a bit different. When using the discs for blades 2" and wider the edge produces is out a few thou which can be a problem on a smoother making 1 thou thick shaving. My hack is to grind the primary bevel at 25 degrees and then use a honing guide at 30 degrees on the 400 grit disc on the chisel back flattening plate. This produces a straight edge. I them go to the leather disc and polish. This works great.
Excellent, really brought that chisel back to life in no time at all. Thanks for sharing
beautiful work. the sharpening and chamfering jigs and methods are excellent
Nothing better than a scary-sharp tool. Thanks for a great video!
Been looking for this type of video for a long while my old tools in my new workshop with some polish on ty.
Excellent, this is a very accessible process, and quick too !
You'll love it
Thanks
My only concern is the amount of heat generated when grinding the primary bevel. It looked awfully hot. If the steel gets hot enough to lose its hardness it will still sharpen to an extremely fine cutting edge, but that edge will quickly go dull in use.
I forgot to mention in the video that the chisel does not get hot when using the cubitron. The cubitron slices through the steel generating almost no heat. I'm able to touch the tip with no fear of removing the temper.
I notice that he touches it near the bevel with his bare fingers after grinding which leads me to believe that it is not hot enough to destroy the temper. A chisel placed on the dashboard of a car on a hot day would be much hotter than this. Yet you never see a warning come with a new chisel saying "Caution : Never leave this chisel in an enclosed vehicle on a hot sunny day. It will destroy the temper! " At least that is my take on it for what it is worth.
This can be overcome by dipping the chisel in water periodically to cool it and oiling after sharpening to prevent rust.
@@RyanJBarnardor he could dipit in oil
Whaou ! Well done
Beautifully presented, concise and complete. Liked, subscribed and pleased. Thank you. Cheers, D.
I just purchased one of your unhandeld Narex marking knives, and I was wondering if you could tell me what size drill bit is needed to drill holes for the pins?
I don't have any bits that small, and I want to make sure that I order the right size the first time around.
Thanks.
Got it figured out.
I had to pick up a numbered bit set because I had it narrowed down to either a #43 or a #42, and HB had a 60pc set on clearance for less than the two single bits would have cost... it turned out to be #43
Putting it together was fun and didn't take long at all, even after making several mistakes along the way.
I may have to buy some of your unhandeld Narex chisels next.
Deneb Puchalski and Paul Sellers are 2 of my favorite tool sharpeners to watch...
Like the sharpening BUT love the tip for the end grain!! Never seen that anywhere else. Cheers.
Brilliant. Now if I only had a drill press!
An 80 on the Bess tester! That's creeping up on actual razor blade territory. Personally, I love the contrast of the highly polished surfaces with the patina from the vinegar bath. & watching those end grain cuts at the end was strangely satisfying.
Impressive. I will be using this system. Thank you.
Thanks
I always sharpen a chisel and I learned how to do that from the Woodright's Shop that used to be on PBS on Saturdays. Also, Flitz brand metal polish will remove a good amount of rust from all iron based metals as well as other metals that can be polished including silver.
Thanks for the top
For pitting that still has the rust intact on it you might look into using electrolysis to plate that rust back onto the metal in the place it is in contact with it to minimize and repair the pitting, then do your grinding,. I use a bench sander with a good flat plate and an old belt, wet the belt to keep it cool , have water or mineral spirits handy to keep it cool, switch to a finer belt or even put an arch under the belt for a slight hollow ground which will help in hand sharpening later on. Good job with the sand paper, though.
I sharpened my brother in laws chisel. Being a pro he was skeptical. I gave it to him and went indoors for a sheet of paper to show its sharpness. Before i got back he had already nearly cut his thumb off. Said it was the sharpest he has come across in 45 years. Now i just need to learn how to do it quicker
I'd imagine most weekend wood workers do not have a drill press either to go with the specialty chisel sharpening gear. They might have a wood planer or jointer though!
Great video! I like the details and complete story. Will be using this method. Where can one get the sharpness tester? Can't find it on Amazon.
Thanks!!😀
Wonderful presentation
Thanks
I totally agree that paring end grain is the best and functional way to test sharpness. The hair shaving is kind of stupid.
Agreed!!
Thank you for this video.
Really nice, I use sandpaper for a while for the rough stuff but the use of the drillpress is eally good stuff. I will try this out myself! Thanks!!!
Glad to help!
Mike, as usual, great videos, enjoy watching all of them in the innovations that you bring to The Woodworking world so well done. Good concept! Would be nice if the sharpening ramp was adjustable! Note: if you use a drill, press a lot, look at investing into a keyless Chuck. You'll love your drill press even more! First upgrade to a drill press everyone should make!
Nice job, I hadn't thought of it that way. I have many chisels I need to sharpen, Thanks.
Thanks
Great video, thanks. I'm worried i wouldn't be able to get the drill press table exactly parallel with the disc. Any tips on that?
You don't need to as you ca shim up the base of the ig with lue tape. Once you get it right you'll never ned to mess with it again.
@@TaylorToolworks I think was saying "you can shim up the base of the jig with blue tape". He showed this in a previous video on the drill press sharpening system.
@@TaylorToolworks makes sense, thank you so much
What a great system! And knowing that Stumpy Nubs endorses it, he recently did a video raving about, just confirms what I can see from your video. Excellent job. My goodness there are a lot of whiney (wingey for those of you crying bollocks) commenters out there. I guess it’s easier to complain about a video than make one. Just subbed to your channel. Been buying your products for a while. Love your customer service.
Great Job
My opinion tho I would dip the chisel in water to maintain the temper if it has one and go on the slowest speed
The blade never gets hot using the Cubitron. I forgot to show that in the vid.
I measured the temp with a digal thermometer and the temp at the tip never got above 110 degrees. Need to exceed 600 degrees to remove temper. Thesecret is the Cubitron whick slice through steel and do not generate heat.
Great job Mike I bought some Narex Richter set chisels from you is ok to use this method on them just wondering about the heat produced ?
Yes!! This is the PERFECT method to set your chisels up!! It doesn't even get hot!!
@@TaylorToolworks0:00
Do you have a video on how to make the chisel back flattening kit? I'm totally new to this and I'm still learning.
It's jsut a piece of 5/16 x 5 x 12 float glass with 4 difffrent grits of PSA discs stuck to each end. You can get on from our website Taytools.com
Nicely done video! Thank you. You explained everything so well.
Thanks
I was always taught to strop away from the cutting edge. Have you tried bringing the beveled edge to the spinning strop from the other direction, so there's no risk of the edge cutting in the leather, potentially ripping it from your hand and sending it flying across the room?
You may not be able to see in the vid but the disc is spining away from the cutting as you suggested. I drop the bevel on the disc and then raise just a but to get a nice polished secondary bevel.
@@MikeTaylorToolworks - Yeah, must be the nature of video, because the disc appears to be spinning the other way. I was wondering how you even pulled that off! So, it makes sense the disc was actually turning the other direction.
@@jasonbroom7147 If it was going the other way, I'd be dead riht now. haha
@@TaylorToolworks - Yeah, now that I think about it, you still have all 10 digits, so... :D
I also had the idea of using a drill press as a DIY Work Sharp 3000 a few years ago. I concluded that it would be too dangerous to use but this has put my mind at ease!
Good work, especially with the jigs :) I'll probably order me one of these if you ship to the UK.
Nothing compares with the Worksharp. There is no going back. I’ve tried the drill press system. It works ok, but the Worksharp is so much better especially if you are just touching up an edge.
Worksharp is great but 4x the cost and the Cubitron discs are much better that the stock Worksharp discs.
@@MikeTaylorToolworks I can imagine, I have heard nothing but good things about these Cubitron discs.
Also, I think the WS3000 is closer to 8x the cost. You can get a lot of Cubitron discs in different grits for that initial outlay!
I too have been searching for this in the UK, but without success. Hopefully, some enterprising retailer will start importing them soon.
I'm with David Charlesworth in that I don't think an abrasive sheet method exists that doesn't cause dubbing to some degree. Going frame by frame, the reflection of the overhead light at 13:27 gives me the impression the front of the back is slightly rounded but I could easily be mistaken. This happens with repeated lapping on leather even without the assistance of power tools so I'm curious to see a clearer example of the backs and whether or not this method accelerates any dubbing and bellies forming. For example, how do these chisels look after using this method and then lapping them further on a high grit stone that's guaranteed flat? Would you then get a scratch pattern develop uniformly across the same surface area or are new highs and lows revealed? Not shitting on the method - it strikes me as clever. I'm just sceptical and keen to learn more. Thanks.
Are the plans for the pairing jig and the drill press jig available anywhere?
You can download tghem from the detail page on the website
Very good advice.
Orthogonal sharpness is quite different to slicing sharpness though.
Your tester scale measures orthogonal sharpness, but your chamfer test relies on the micro sawtooth pattern left by the grit, which is not orthoganal.
A saw will slice just fine, but fail on your sharpness tester.
Slicing versus cutting.
What a great method and it's presentation! Thank You very much!
Excellent demonstration.
One thing of note about the drill press. Mine has a morse tapered collet holding the chuck in place, meaning pressure fit, no screws securing it.
I once had the chuck drop out using downward pressure. A scary moment. Just a thought.
All drill presses have a Morse tape fit for the chuck. Just give your chuck a tap with a dead blow hammer and it will never fall out.
Hi any options to the pillar drill? don't mind it taking 10/15 mins but working in tight storage space no room or cash for drill.
hi, do you know if this setup can be used to sharpen hand planer blades? or will the width be a problem?
What a brilliant video, so clear and well edited and your paring jig is very impressive
I know there are people who get passionate about the fancy, expensive equipment they buy to keep their fancy, expensive chisels razor-sharp, but this system seems appropriate for people like me who buy rusty chisels at yard sales, then leave them laying around to collect more rust 'cuz we don't know how to sharpen them right and can't afford fancy, expensive tools....
Aus Deutschland ruft der Bastelkönig : Bravo, bravissimo...
Nice method. I might need to switch to this
Brilliant!! Nice set up! and it only took 24 hrs 4 min 13 sec. Why soak it? Won't the grinder just grind off the rust in seconds and take you to bare metal?
Wow another great video and great tips thanks for sharing
Thanks
Great video!!
Just curious. Why do you go through 1000 grit when flattening the back but only 220 grit when doing the bevel?
When you hone the secondary bevel you are only focusing on a very small area, where the back is a larger surface.
It would jsut take longe to strop tha back as there is more material to address. The tip of the bevel is so small it takes just a few seconds. Good question.
I'm empress. however I'm more interested in jig and the drill press grinding stone? I think it would be more interesting in how you made your tools! make a video on the process.
One my list
On my list. Thanks.
Can you reuse vinegar for rust removal? For instance keep a sealed jar of it and pop something in every so often to clean up? Or is it a one time use thing really? Thanks
Yes. The acetic acid in vinegar will react with rust to form iron acetate. As long as there's still unreacted acetic acid left in the solution, it will keep removing rust.
Fun tip: once the vinegar has been used up and you just have iron acetate in your solution, you have something known as vinegaroon. If you put it on oak, it reacts with the tannic acid in the wood to turn it black.
Excellent work,Thanks much.
Great tutorial! I would do an extra step for ascetics is after soaking and wiping the metal is mask the handle where the metal meets.
Then run a wire brush (on a drill or bench grinder) to brighten the metal, then start sharpening the chisel.
Again well made and thanks for putting this video together - now more importantly, I know what “Right” looks like and how it’s supposed to be done.
Ok but a question cant the rust be removed just by grinding, is the vinegar a necessary step?
Thanks man! Great vid.
With all of the heat introduced on the drill press, haven’t you removed the steel temper?
I'm not really sure what the purpose was for timing this because changing out tools and buff wheels, moving to stations to hand sand, that all takes time which you omitted for whatever reason. However, what i really got from your video was how to sharpen my chisels so thank you for that.
Please use the links below to purchase your kit and accessories!
Chisel Back Preparation Kit: rb.gy/0e6ag
Drill Press Sharpening System: rb.gy/kclco
Drill Press Sharpening System Accessories: rb.gy/202mx
Replacement 3M Cubitron II Stikit Discs: rb.gy/6utoa
Brilliant. Such a straightforward method. Thanks for the video.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Thanks for sharing
I got the very same looking red chisel - inherited it - but I don't have the tools you have,,,
However, I knew it was worth saving this old thing, and other tools too...
well thought out. Thank you
Thanks Mike
Your plans say the ramp should be at least 3” long, but with some of my older chisels that’s too long. Would I run into any problems if I make the ramp 2.5”?
This is a great video, and next time I am trying to use the vinegar tip for sure. Just one of your statements in the beginning: "It might take up to thirty minutes or even half an hour". Well, IMHO any woodworker not willing to spend an hour (or two or three) restoring an old chisel is not worth it. Woodworking is not about speed, it is about quality. An old chisel is worth ten times more that most modern chisels and hence worth the time restoring. Having said that, I am a bit worried at sharpening the bevel on the drill press, it looks like the edges are getting hot. While I would follow your method, I also would spend some more time on cleaning the bevel in a slower and cooler way, maybe even thirty minutes. 😄
What is the difference between the 5” and 6”. Is there an advantage of one over the other?
proof is in the performance 😊