@@AlenbtgMepstoen Yeah man, we got em! The yard is tree free now. It's like my old man used to say you shouldn't have trees close trees close to a house the roots can attack plumbing or electricity
I watched six videos on this. All were longer than yours but you mentioned the overlap between the wedge cut and plunge cut which looks like the smartest and safest route. I’ll be following your directions precisely. Thank you!
I’ve been cutting trees 45 years never saw this method I’m impressed not doing much cutting these days but if the opportunity presents itself I will use this method
I love that you looked to see your escape route was clear, before proceeding. Great technique, will be using that, as we have a few of trees that have leans, and a few that need felling, due to their proximity to roads and buildings. Thanks!
Good job..but I suggest ...make sure escape path is cleared of trippers and take 3-4 steps backwards while and facing tree, set chain brake immediately after backcut is released. Look up for widow makers and use saw as shield to potentially block. Not good to turn back on tree and run with chain brake off. Learned from Soren Erickson in GOL training over 30 yrs ago. Cut many a leaner on hill sides in Wisconsin and MN.
i'm frenchies... it's always very interesting to see working methods of Américans and Canadians in Forestry sector...!!!! we see that it is two nations of foresters...! bravo , felicitations...!
Just searched for how to cut leaning trees and this was first one that popped up. Just used the the technique on a similar sized chestnut oak that had a harder lean. Worked perfectly. Thank you for posting a no nonsense to the point video
Very cool. We have several hard leaners on some property we purchased and this morning I was pondering how to cut them, and this is exactly the same technique I came up with. Very similar idea to drilling a hole at the end of a crack in metal to relive the stress concentration, except that this is pre-emptive, you are creating a place for the crack to terminate before the crack begins. Very smart!
Yep with some trees even doing a special cut like that they will still barber chair, so in my opinion depending on the tree, you should always wrap the base with a chain or a strap
With heavy leaners I was taught to do an open face cut, then bore out most of the wood in the middle leaving a trigger at the back. Then quickly cut the trigger but below your bore cut. If you cut above your bore cut like in your video there's a chance your saw could go for an unexpected ride.
BINGO...trigger cut one to two inches below bore cut. Also the step down is an unnecessary step....just bore straight thru to your trigger wood. Using a wide open notch giving a little bigger percentage cut will also give you wider hinge which will hold on longer. Now if the tree is dead yeah I can see using a stepped back cut since there may not be a viable hinge....but hey what do I know lol
I had a large oak leaner. Having no experience at this I searched UA-cam like I always do. Came across this video. Successfully cut down the tree with an Ego battery powered 16-in saw. I had to do a couple more stair steps because it was a large tree and the bar width is not very wide. Overall this felt super safe. Once I cut into the back side I was able to step back and listen to it crackle and pop until it went.
Thanks for the tip. I've never actually had a tree barber chair on me (yet) but that little clip you had in there of one that did certainly illustrates the point of how dangerous it is!
Thanks for the video I have some bad leaning pines from a wind storm I cut one yesterday and it started going right into my back cut I just got out of the way and let it go. There was 6” of hinge wood left after it fell. This is who I found your video video knew there had to be a better way.
Don’t add unnecessary complexity!Granted I have only been cutting professionally since 2017, mostly in Colorado conifers, I’m sure the old timers would agree with me that stair stepping boring cuts is pointless/dangerous beyond having a single ‘stump shot’ to prevent the butt of the bole from kicking back over the stump, when there is potential (such as felling up a steep hill). As long as you have properly set your holding wood at the beginning of the boring back cut, it will not release until you cut through the trigger on the opposite side from the face cut. I think this is actually more dangerous than a standard boring back-cut, given that you are spending more time under the tree than necessary and actually increasing the possibility of a barber chair by introducing overlapping cuts. It gives the appearance of skill (nice flat cuts!), but some newbie homeowner is going to definitely not get the overlap right and cause a barber chair by having an unintended second piece of holding wood in the middle of the tree, creating a point where the fibers could likely split up the bole, then barber-chairing anyways. This cut is still relying on the trigger (aka back strap). I do appreciate the sap wood cuts on the corners of the hinge and that your face cut was very shallow, which are other valid mitigation techniques. There is no one ‘right’ technique, but introducing more potential for error when a simpler method works just as well or safer, is a negative quality in a sawyer. Just my 2 cents. Stay safe out there y’all.
Lots of unnecessary steps including the plunge cut, that's not for homeowner newbies that just got a chainsaw. Agree with all the points you made about this guy's technique.😮
Stump looked pretty good to me. You’re quite accurate with your bore cuts, I feel like I’d be challenged to meet my bore cuts three times across the tree from the two sides. I suppose that would be eliminated with a longer bar that could go all the way through, though you’d have to make sure you got the height dead on on the far side. Anyway, practice would get you to this level, and the technique certainly makes sense. As an intermediate sawyer, I would probably go with a single bore back it and cut back out to a trigger release - not that it’s better than this method, just less likely to mess up, plus having some barber chair protection…. Anyhoo, good video! Thank you
The steps dont prevent the chair like people think. The severed heart fibers do. Chairs happen when the top is going and the stump still has enough connection to keep a portion of the tree standing. The buttlog cant reconcile so it delaminates at the transition between compression wood and tension wood. If all that transiton zone is servered before the top starts to go it cannot delaminate. Basically once the first borecut was made, just saw straight out the back in one pass.
Thanks for keeping it short and to the point. I have a bowed over oak tree that just died during the dry hot summer. I is on the fence line and I don't want to have to rebuild the cedar fence. My tree is slightly smaller than the one you used to demo. As an old retired shrimp boat owner I keep thinking it would make a perfect bow stem for a 30 to 40 foot boat.
I have watched many videos on how to fell a tree like this one. Your video is absolutely the best, safest and professional way I have ever seen. I am subscribing to your channel. I look forward to many more. Timothy
Interesting technique and yes it is probably safe. I think it is way overkill because your holding wood is so small. Its only the trigger area that is holding towards the end of the cut. Look at when the tree starts to go. The step height is so small, it cannot hold/prevent the barber chair if it were to go. The bore cut is what prevents the barber chair and a vertical tension really cant break the trigger until the last moment. You would be safer to set up a thicker hinge, get the bore through and pop the trigger quickly.
Yup. I took one of the commercial/yellow ratchet straps and cut it about right to go around a 24" tree twice (just to get rid of the tag end) Works fantastic. Easier to rig than the chain I was using on hard leaners. Both work. I still advise plunge cutting though instead of trying to bend a 4" thick hinge....
Perhaps if you had used a humboldt notch to start it would have caused the butt to hit first instead of the crown of the tree. In the video the butt flies up when the crown hits. You might give that a try next time.
Never seen it done like that before. Interesting, but I’m not sure all that stair-stepping is really worth all the trouble. In the fire service we try to minimize the amount of time at the base of a snag or burning tree. That really seemed like a lot of unnecessary back and forth to me. After the face cut was in, I would’ve bored in leaving a healthy stump shot and cut out the back of the tree. A “Boring back-cut” is what we call it. All but eliminating the chance of a barber chair and much less time hanging out under a killer tree. You did a fine job of putting the tree down where you wanted it, you knew the hazards involved and how to mitigate them and nobody was hurt. In the end, that’s what we are trying to do.
It seems like the steps built with this method would reduce the snap upon release that you can sometimes get with a hard leaner with a straight out or triggered bore cut putting less of a shock to the top of the tree. It also seems like the slower more controlled release, if I am actually understanding the dynamics correctly, would allow the hinge to hold more securely against a limited degree of side lean. I might benefit from this technique on the next step of dismantling a quad dom elm I've been working on as the stem has moderate front lean and a little side lean with regards to where I need it to fall.
Great job with the video and instructions and it's great to see you using proper protective gear unlike some of the cowboys we see on YT. Best wishes from Ireland ☘☘☘
If you do a bore cut and leave a strap for a trigger on the back of the tree and cut it last it takes away the dangers of barbercair. Less steps and more efficient than this way, but it works and looks safe thanks for sharing
Yeah! That's usually what I do. Sometimes though on hickory and ash that are leaning really hard, if you just do a usual bore cut leaving a strap at the back, it'll pull the roots at the back of the tree up and then you get showered with dirt. Thanks for the comment
A heavy horizontal branch in a tree crown can also barberchair a technic I use is to cut the wedge or small undercut then cut each side of the trunk or branch just past the sapwood sometimes in a triangle shape then proceed to the back cut or top cut There’s something about cutting the sapwood that reduces the barberchair affect
Awesome technique, probably the most interesting tree felling clip I have seen so far. I sometimes get stuck with the chainsaw when the tree is leaning so it was very interesting to see how you solved it 👍🏻
My screen has a crack so i am not able to see the image clearly but from the comments, i can assure you that the wedding was fantastic. The only thing we are wishing the couple is a fabulous honeymoon and a happy marriage life.
When they're leaning hard and you just cut straight out the back, the weight of the tree pulls the stump apart and pieces of the root pull up and will sometimes mess up the direction your aiming for. For the sake of time I usually do just cut straight out. The next time I find a leaner I'll make a vid and cut straight out so you can see what happens. Hope this makes sense 🤔
I worked for forestry on a hotshot wildland firecrew on a saw team for a few years, and am currently an arborist. It's practically universal to do 30% depth on your face cut, or notch, regardless of what felling cut you are using. I've never seen steps done before, but I've also never talked to anyone that has had issues simply using a humboldt for the face, and one plunge cut straight out the back. Multiple plunge cuts like that do relieve pressure and mitigate a barber chair, but I'm rather certain that it's unnecessarily complicating the situation. If the stump does something crazy like you say, you probably should have cut higher up on the stem wood methinks. Cool technique though!
Got an oak tree in my yard just like this.Is there a way to do this cut to make the tree fall more to the side rather straight down the way it is leaning?
Yeah, you can use the triple hinge Technic. I don't have any videos demonstrating but if you go to logger wades channel he has a good how to vid. Thanks for the comment 🌲
I learned about this type of cut 15 or so years ago and have used it ever since. In all that time I haven't had any hard leaners split on me with the exception of one severely heavy leaning white oak. And that one didn't split much. This technique works and as a 30 year timber cutter think it's the safest and most effective on heavy leaners.
After a bore cut out towards the back...the release cut should be made from the outside to prevent the tree from possibly taking the bar with it...dont worry....with that much tension...it will pop...
Thanks. Now I'm thinking about cutting a 40 foot oak tree that grew wild down in the corner of my house 🏠 🏠 🏚 🏡 its like that but has 3 12 inch stalks coming out of 1 and its leaning toward the street. I live in Texas deer park so its house to house etc with back yards and its right up against the backyard fence and the neighbors have a story house I can't have it fall on the house their house or their cars. I wish I had you here to help lol
I referred to this video in the woods the other day just before felling a big leaning larch - just to refresh the memory on proper technique. Followed the video precisely and it was perfect 👌🏻👌🏻 Thank you man 👍🏻
Thanks for explaining this. What degree would you say this was leaning? I've got about a 55° cherrywood leaner coming up that's about 20" in diameter. It's actually a main limb from a fallen tree and it's nearly hollow where it meets the trunk, so it's got me inquiring of safety techniques. I knew about the bore cut and trigger wood, but never did know about the step cuts. Makes sense
It allows the tree to be closer to the ground before the trunk makes contact with the bottom side of your face cut. Thus reducing the possibility of the tree making any sudden changes in direction or coming back at you across the stump.
I can use some advise I have a tree with a slight lean that is 39 ' high , the lean is towards the house ,what can you recommend to safely have it cut.
Is there a way to fell tree in a direction away from the lean? Tree leans 30* 12 o'lock , and I want to fell it to 2 :30 o' clock. Most branch weight in on lean side.
hey thank you very much for that video. i have a question, could you also just do your back cut under the notch cut? i hope you understand what i mean. would be nice to know
Yes.. You can do you back cut below, the same hight, or above your notch cut as long as you're back cut doesn't cross the hinge would above or below. I usually like making the back cut the same hight as the hinge
@@IntoTheWoods1 I'll have a look for a video. It's essentially a normal face cut, then bore through to create a hinge, leaving about 15-20% for a diagonal backcut to finish. I've used it quite a lot. Similar idea to your staircut.
Smart technique! I never thought about that you could do steps like that.. Thanks man I've got a few trees on my yard that's leaning :) :)
Which model sthil it was ? Ms ?
Did you implement this technique on your leaning trees? Are you alive?
@@AlenbtgMepstoen Yeah man, we got em! The yard is tree free now. It's like my old man used to say you shouldn't have trees close trees close to a house the roots can attack plumbing or electricity
“...that are leaning.”
Thank you for getting to the point and not making this a 30 minute video.
I agree I’m a content Creator myself, and I found its key to keep videos between 10 and 15 minutes long. 😂
It was painful to watch in the first place.
@@fatefarmspa Your videos stink though.
For real
Everything about this video confirms that he is a REAL professional at felling trees. Really liked his clear explanations
I watched six videos on this. All were longer than yours but you mentioned the overlap between the wedge cut and plunge cut which looks like the smartest and safest route. I’ll be following your directions precisely. Thank you!
That was a great technique. Boy that tree popped fast. Note to cutters....before the Arborist finished his cut....he scoped out his escape route
Thanks for pointing that out. That's a great habit!
I’ve been cutting trees 45 years never saw this method I’m impressed not doing much cutting these days but if the opportunity presents itself I will use this method
I love that you looked to see your escape route was clear, before proceeding.
Great technique, will be using that, as we have a few of trees that have leans, and a few that need felling, due to their proximity to roads and buildings.
Thanks!
Good job..but I suggest ...make sure escape path is cleared of trippers and take 3-4 steps backwards while and facing tree, set chain brake immediately after backcut is released.
Look up for widow makers and use saw as shield to potentially block.
Not good to turn back on tree and run with chain brake off.
Learned from Soren Erickson in GOL training over 30 yrs ago.
Cut many a leaner on hill sides in Wisconsin and MN.
i'm frenchies... it's always very interesting to see working methods of Américans and Canadians in Forestry sector...!!!! we see that it is two nations of foresters...! bravo , felicitations...!
Back at ya
Just searched for how to cut leaning trees and this was first one that popped up. Just used the the technique on a similar sized chestnut oak that had a harder lean. Worked perfectly. Thank you for posting a no nonsense to the point video
It's nice to see someone that knows what they're doing! There's far too many instructional videos out there that are plain wrong!
I've seen many many correct videos what video Are you watching
Send a link, I have yet to see shit advice on falling a leaner
Very cool. We have several hard leaners on some property we purchased and this morning I was pondering how to cut them, and this is exactly the same technique I came up with. Very similar idea to drilling a hole at the end of a crack in metal to relive the stress concentration, except that this is pre-emptive, you are creating a place for the crack to terminate before the crack begins. Very smart!
Technical, well executed, and even sped through the sawing. 20/10, well done.
Yep with some trees even doing a special cut like that they will still barber chair, so in my opinion depending on the tree, you should always wrap the base with a chain or a strap
One of those rare videos where I actually learned something that may save my life!
With heavy leaners I was taught to do an open face cut, then bore out most of the wood in the middle leaving a trigger at the back. Then quickly cut the trigger but below your bore cut. If you cut above your bore cut like in your video there's a chance your saw could go for an unexpected ride.
BINGO...trigger cut one to two inches below bore cut. Also the step down is an unnecessary step....just bore straight thru to your trigger wood. Using a wide open notch giving a little bigger percentage cut will also give you wider hinge which will hold on longer. Now if the tree is dead yeah I can see using a stepped back cut since there may not be a viable hinge....but hey what do I know lol
I had cut down a leaning tree yesterday ,stair step method worked perfect .keep safe out there 🙏
Pretty stump or not. You’re still able to go home on your own two feet. Good stuff. Thanks.
The stump is gorgeous when you look at it purely in terms of function, I love seeing experienced work in action
Just done this technique on a tree that was dangerously leaning after a storm.
Worked like a charm 😊😊😊.
Thanks
I had a large oak leaner. Having no experience at this I searched UA-cam like I always do. Came across this video. Successfully cut down the tree with an Ego battery powered 16-in saw. I had to do a couple more stair steps because it was a large tree and the bar width is not very wide. Overall this felt super safe. Once I cut into the back side I was able to step back and listen to it crackle and pop until it went.
He's wearing all the safety gear, and performed a textbook perfect fell, listen to this man!
Thanks for the tip. I've never actually had a tree barber chair on me (yet) but that little clip you had in there of one that did certainly illustrates the point of how dangerous it is!
Best video i have seen about this subject. Great Job.
Thanks for the video I have some bad leaning pines from a wind storm I cut one yesterday and it started going right into my back cut I just got out of the way and let it go. There was 6” of hinge wood left after it fell. This is who I found your video video knew there had to be a better way.
Don’t add unnecessary complexity!Granted I have only been cutting professionally since 2017, mostly in Colorado conifers, I’m sure the old timers would agree with me that stair stepping boring cuts is pointless/dangerous beyond having a single ‘stump shot’ to prevent the butt of the bole from kicking back over the stump, when there is potential (such as felling up a steep hill). As long as you have properly set your holding wood at the beginning of the boring back cut, it will not release until you cut through the trigger on the opposite side from the face cut. I think this is actually more dangerous than a standard boring back-cut, given that you are spending more time under the tree than necessary and actually increasing the possibility of a barber chair by introducing overlapping cuts. It gives the appearance of skill (nice flat cuts!), but some newbie homeowner is going to definitely not get the overlap right and cause a barber chair by having an unintended second piece of holding wood in the middle of the tree, creating a point where the fibers could likely split up the bole, then barber-chairing anyways. This cut is still relying on the trigger (aka back strap). I do appreciate the sap wood cuts on the corners of the hinge and that your face cut was very shallow, which are other valid mitigation techniques. There is no one ‘right’ technique, but introducing more potential for error when a simpler method works just as well or safer, is a negative quality in a sawyer. Just my 2 cents. Stay safe out there y’all.
Lots of unnecessary steps including the plunge cut, that's not for homeowner newbies that just got a chainsaw. Agree with all the points you made about this guy's technique.😮
Stump looked pretty good to me. You’re quite accurate with your bore cuts, I feel like I’d be challenged to meet my bore cuts three times across the tree from the two sides. I suppose that would be eliminated with a longer bar that could go all the way through, though you’d have to make sure you got the height dead on on the far side. Anyway, practice would get you to this level, and the technique certainly makes sense. As an intermediate sawyer, I would probably go with a single bore back it and cut back out to a trigger release - not that it’s better than this method, just less likely to mess up, plus having some barber chair protection…. Anyhoo, good video! Thank you
Thank you for sharing this video! You made it look so easy and simple! I have to cut one that looks the same. Excellent explanation step by step!
Nice to see guys that cut for a living posting videos 👍🏼👍🏼
The steps dont prevent the chair like people think. The severed heart fibers do. Chairs happen when the top is going and the stump still has enough connection to keep a portion of the tree standing. The buttlog cant reconcile so it delaminates at the transition between compression wood and tension wood. If all that transiton zone is servered before the top starts to go it cannot delaminate.
Basically once the first borecut was made, just saw straight out the back in one pass.
Thanks for keeping it short and to the point. I have a bowed over oak tree that just died during the dry hot summer. I is on the fence line and I don't want to have to rebuild the cedar fence. My tree is slightly smaller than the one you used to demo. As an old retired shrimp boat owner I keep thinking it would make a perfect bow stem for a 30 to 40 foot boat.
How did it go for you?
This is very helpful and educates people like me who cut large trees down on my property. Thank you.
I like how you cut the extremes of the hinge to make it smaller and more controllable so it snaps in the center, nice work man
I really liked seeing you immediately use the chain-break! This is a professional at work. Thank you.
I have watched many videos on how to fell a tree like this one. Your video is absolutely the best, safest and professional way I have ever seen. I am subscribing to your channel. I look forward to many more. Timothy
That was a nasty one for sure! But you did it like a pro! Good job. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe.
Interesting technique and yes it is probably safe. I think it is way overkill because your holding wood is so small. Its only the trigger area that is holding towards the end of the cut. Look at when the tree starts to go. The step height is so small, it cannot hold/prevent the barber chair if it were to go. The bore cut is what prevents the barber chair and a vertical tension really cant break the trigger until the last moment. You would be safer to set up a thicker hinge, get the bore through and pop the trigger quickly.
Has anyone ever tried WRAPPING CHAIN around the trunk to keep the split from forming or separating and running up the trunk?
Yup.
I took one of the commercial/yellow ratchet straps and cut it about right to go around a 24" tree twice (just to get rid of the tag end)
Works fantastic. Easier to rig than the chain I was using on hard leaners. Both work. I still advise plunge cutting though instead of trying to bend a 4" thick hinge....
YES I wrapped chain, nylon webbing, basically anything I had, just above the cut. It worked great for me on 3 larger trees.
Perhaps if you had used a humboldt notch to start it would have caused the butt to hit first instead of the crown of the tree. In the video the butt flies up when the crown hits. You might give that a try next time.
Never seen it done like that before. Interesting, but I’m not sure all that stair-stepping is really worth all the trouble.
In the fire service we try to minimize the amount of time at the base of a snag or burning tree. That really seemed like a lot of unnecessary back and forth to me.
After the face cut was in, I would’ve bored in leaving a healthy stump shot and cut out the back of the tree. A “Boring back-cut” is what we call it. All but eliminating the chance of a barber chair and much less time hanging out under a killer tree.
You did a fine job of putting the tree down where you wanted it, you knew the hazards involved and how to mitigate them and nobody was hurt. In the end, that’s what we are trying to do.
I am sure he is a professional and could give 2 shits what you think!
@@John-th8td I’m pretty sure you don’t know anything about tree felling and should just go back to watching videos about cats.
@@dozer1642 Good advice.
Well said,, I'm with you.
I know I would enjoy working with you, keep up the good stuff.
It seems like the steps built with this method would reduce the snap upon release that you can sometimes get with a hard leaner with a straight out or triggered bore cut putting less of a shock to the top of the tree.
It also seems like the slower more controlled release, if I am actually understanding the dynamics correctly, would allow the hinge to hold more securely against a limited degree of side lean.
I might benefit from this technique on the next step of dismantling a quad dom elm I've been working on as the stem has moderate front lean and a little side lean with regards to where I need it to fall.
There is no hinge he cut it completely out
@noah bartholomew yes there is. You can see it when the tree falls and after he looks at the stump.
Great job with the video and instructions and it's great to see you using proper protective gear unlike some of the cowboys we see on YT.
Best wishes from Ireland ☘☘☘
Great tip. I’ll store it for future reference. Thanks.
If you do a bore cut and leave a strap for a trigger on the back of the tree and cut it last it takes away the dangers of barbercair. Less steps and more efficient than this way, but it works and looks safe thanks for sharing
Yeah! That's usually what I do. Sometimes though on hickory and ash that are leaning really hard, if you just do a usual bore cut leaving a strap at the back, it'll pull the roots at the back of the tree up and then you get showered with dirt. Thanks for the comment
Nice job! One of the hardest trees to drop
Yeah! Especially when it's ash.
A heavy horizontal branch in a tree crown can also barberchair a technic I use is to cut the wedge or small undercut then cut each side of the trunk or branch just past the sapwood sometimes in a triangle shape then proceed to the back cut or top cut
There’s something about cutting the sapwood that reduces the barberchair affect
Awesome technique, probably the most interesting tree felling clip I have seen so far. I sometimes get stuck with the chainsaw when the tree is leaning so it was very interesting to see how you solved it 👍🏻
So glad you ran away from the stump! I like it!
Yes! Let the camera be the witness.
My screen has a crack so i am not able to see the image clearly but from the comments, i can assure you that the wedding was fantastic. The only thing we are wishing the couple is a fabulous honeymoon and a happy marriage life.
I’ve been climbing for a decade, I’ve never seen that. Badass!!!
Awesome technique and clear concise explanation. Well done friend🙏🏽
That was really interesting great job 👍
Thanks for sharing. I like your step method.
Good video, heavy leaners are one of the most dangerous trees. K
(we call it a dog tooth cut in UK )
Thank you for your explanation. Very dangerous situation.
Perfectly done and explained. That's oak and you didn't belt the trunk. In wich case would you belt such a leaner on the trunk?
Good video I have a huge black locust tomorrow. its a real heavy leaner..I am a little nervous lol. wish me luck lol
Are you alive? 😂
That video of the barber chair effect was pretty scary. Excellent job explaining!
Honest question: Why not just make the hinge and back cut straight out (without steps?)
When they're leaning hard and you just cut straight out the back, the weight of the tree pulls the stump apart and pieces of the root pull up and will sometimes mess up the direction your aiming for. For the sake of time I usually do just cut straight out. The next time I find a leaner I'll make a vid and cut straight out so you can see what happens. Hope this makes sense 🤔
@@IntoTheWoods1 thank you. Please do.
A 50% notch on that leaner would have pinched your bar
I worked for forestry on a hotshot wildland firecrew on a saw team for a few years, and am currently an arborist. It's practically universal to do 30% depth on your face cut, or notch, regardless of what felling cut you are using. I've never seen steps done before, but I've also never talked to anyone that has had issues simply using a humboldt for the face, and one plunge cut straight out the back.
Multiple plunge cuts like that do relieve pressure and mitigate a barber chair, but I'm rather certain that it's unnecessarily complicating the situation. If the stump does something crazy like you say, you probably should have cut higher up on the stem wood methinks. Cool technique though!
Barber chair effect
Well done, young man.
Thank you
Very good job on a potentially extremely dangerous tree.
Even when it fell it still gave off a nasty bounce. 😉👍
that slowmo at the end givin me Rocky 4 vibes lmao
Beautifully done, lad!
Thank you for the awesome video! Used the step method today and worked great!!
now that is smart.. never seen it done exactly like that.. only a small hinge in between
good job!!!
Got an oak tree in my yard just like this.Is there a way to do this cut to make the tree fall more to the side rather straight down the way it is leaning?
Yeah, you can use the triple hinge Technic. I don't have any videos demonstrating but if you go to logger wades channel he has a good how to vid. Thanks for the comment 🌲
Bore and trigger cut
I learned about this type of cut 15 or so years ago and have used it ever since. In all that time I haven't had any hard leaners split on me with the exception of one severely heavy leaning white oak. And that one didn't split much. This technique works and as a 30 year timber cutter think it's the safest and most effective on heavy leaners.
After a bore cut out towards the back...the release cut should be made from the outside to prevent the tree from possibly taking the bar with it...dont worry....with that much tension...it will pop...
Thanks. Now I'm thinking about cutting a 40 foot oak tree that grew wild down in the corner of my house 🏠 🏠 🏚 🏡 its like that but has 3 12 inch stalks coming out of 1 and its leaning toward the street. I live in Texas deer park so its house to house etc with back yards and its right up against the backyard fence and the neighbors have a story house I can't have it fall on the house their house or their cars.
I wish I had you here to help lol
So that's what Mickey Mouses chainsaw sounds like. Lol
Do you come from both sides with the second step bore cut, in the vid you only came from one side?
If the bar doesn't go through the tree you have to bore on both sides
@@IntoTheWoods1 great thanks
Awesome application of Physics and Logic + Chainsaw Power.
Great video you demonstrated above!
Excellent video. Easier said than done for as green as I am, but it went well. Thank you for the knowledge.
An excellent video! Thank you so much for information that could save a life.
I referred to this video in the woods the other day just before felling a big leaning larch - just to refresh the memory on proper technique. Followed the video precisely and it was perfect 👌🏻👌🏻
Thank you man 👍🏻
Run for your life!! Like the slow mo running part! Great job
Nicely done.
Worked like a charm on a leaning partially hollow oak. Thanks.
That was awesome! Very talented for a young age
That is a good video!. Thanks for that technique, will come in handy.
There's a tree I have to fell on Tuesday that has a barber chair from the wind. Looks easy enough it's very dead, powder almost.
I thought the tree was going down opposite to the lean. I'm thinking that this is a miracle I'm about to witness.
Thanks! Just used this today on huge river birch
Ive never seen this method before. Worked really nice
Nice
Have used this
Hickory can be a problem
You executed very well
That's good saw work...👍
Nice to see a pro at work!
Good technique and well explained. Thanks
Thanks for explaining this. What degree would you say this was leaning? I've got about a 55° cherrywood leaner coming up that's about 20" in diameter. It's actually a main limb from a fallen tree and it's nearly hollow where it meets the trunk, so it's got me inquiring of safety techniques. I knew about the bore cut and trigger wood, but never did know about the step cuts. Makes sense
WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST FOR SMALLER DIAMETER TREES THAT DON'T HAVE SPACE FOR THIS TECHNIQUE ?
Nice explaination and balls for dropping this tree,..wondering Why the steep angle of the Facecut,though?
It allows the tree to be closer to the ground before the trunk makes contact with the bottom side of your face cut. Thus reducing the possibility of the tree making any sudden changes in direction or coming back at you across the stump.
I can use some advise I have a tree with a slight lean that is 39 ' high , the lean is towards the house ,what can you recommend to safely have it cut.
That is good. Of course now....the firewood is not pre-split half way up the stem.
Is there a way to fell tree in a direction away from the lean? Tree leans 30* 12 o'lock , and I want to fell it to 2 :30 o' clock. Most branch weight in on lean side.
I’ve seen Buckin do it with wedges, I lot of pounding and stacking of said wedges. Check his channel out!
I like the 50,000 rpm Stihl. :-)
Exactly! I need one of those! 🤔
Thanks for video brother
OTTIMO video
e OTTIMO canale
hey thank you very much for that video.
i have a question, could you also just do your back cut under the notch cut? i hope you understand what i mean. would be nice to know
Yes.. You can do you back cut below, the same hight, or above your notch cut as long as you're back cut doesn't cross the hinge would above or below. I usually like making the back cut the same hight as the hinge
In the uk we are taught the dog tooth cut for trees like this. Interesting how methods change depending on region
What does a dog tooth cut look like? Are there any good videos that explain it in UA-cam? Thanks for the comment!
@@IntoTheWoods1 I'll have a look for a video. It's essentially a normal face cut, then bore through to create a hinge, leaving about 15-20% for a diagonal backcut to finish. I've used it quite a lot. Similar idea to your staircut.
I didnt even read the title good i thought you gonna fall it in the opposite site were its leaning i was very curious how you gonna do it
Excellent presentation and demonstration. 👏👏
I'm going to have to try that, I've got a few leaners that need to be taken down