Very cool. When I was very young saw my father do this but didn't know what it was. Thank you for the detail! My only criticism is all of the cut branch debris at the base while you were cutting. Dad taught me to clear area so if something starts to go bad I wouldn't trip getting out of the way.
I just felled a beast of a tree today, on a very steep slope. I made sure to keep it all clean, and to know exactly where I could escape to from each position around the tree. I.e., I fully agree!
Полностью согласен, раз видео преподносят как обучающее, или ознакомительное, то и эти ветки под ногами нужно было убрать. Самому приятнее было бы работать. И безопаснее!
I have used this several times. Even when it's not critical, it is great to be able to control the falling rate with the multiple hinges. Great technique.
If you compare it to a normal face cut where as soon as the acecut closes and the holding wood breaks, control of the tree is on its own. Using this technique, the layered hinges you create with the vertical cuts will hold longer and bend resulting in a longer, slower, more controlled felling of the stalk. In my limited experience, the longer you can control the stalk to the ground, the less risk to surrounding objects and the less turf damage. If you have a wide open area with nothing at risk of being g destroyed, this may be a waste of your time. It's definitely not for production driven jobs. Try it out. It's pretty enjoyable.
@@rickdebacker100 Longer/slower felling apt when your escape is not obstacle free. Llikely apt for a leaner I have in corner, juncture of 2 fences… wish plenty of time to escape. Also (guessing) guide ropes more effective on slower fell especially as some trunk rot adds an unknown, thus the guide-ropes for extra margin for error.
This is a great demonstration of the importance of holding wood and what that wood is actually doing inside the tree. This is unbelievable. Makes complete since after watching though. WOW!!
@@Roman_Av как я понял таким образом удерживающая древесина становится более крепкой, и гибкой, от чего дерево дольше остаётся какбы на пеньке, точнее держится его, от чего и более контролируемо падение, меньше шансов что пойдет на сторону, или его покрутит, и оно упадет не туда куда хочешь
That will work on frozen timber. I've used double sizwheel bore cuts to swing hard frozen spruce , aspen and birch. It's the best that can be done to strengthen frozen holding wood. BUT it's an easy way to get quite a barberchair if someone does it in the summertime when the holding wood is really strong.
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Unless you have to Really have to swing a tree a long ways and are in a hurry. Like you are Bushlin, ( falling timber and only getting paid for the volume of timber you get on the ground and limbed and bucked. Or just tree length. There is no reason to take that much time fooling around on the stump. The Only thing those bore cuts do is make the holding wood stronger and gives the holding wood more time to pull a side leaning tree into the lay you have for it. If you want to take a chance ripping a tree up the middle, having the butt run out behind the stump then fall off to one side or the other. Possibly from as much as 20 meters Up. . Go for it. Just so ya know that you will be taking a normally Dangerous job . And making it 4 times MORE Dangerous. With no benifit to be had. The bore cuts like you did are useful with Frozen timber. If you can get your timber to go where it needs to with just a wedge or 3. And normal conventional cuts. That is the better , safer and faster route to go.
I thought he was just asking for a barber chair . I do one high plunge cut, bring the rpms down to feel inside, and then I cut all the fiber material if it was not hollow . Then I do a normal wedge and back cut much lower than my gutting technique about a foot . If it is a big tree, I will do a wedge and then a bore behind the hinge working towards the trigger . After my gutting cuts on pines
Nice work, great job. The video would be enhanced by standing back and showing the viewers the lean of the tree. Apart from that, a great explanation of your cuts.
Yeah, first thing I noticed, too. If something starts to go wrong and you need to get away from the tree in a hurry, that mess at the base of the tree could very easily trip you up (especially with snow on the ground) and you are suddenly at the mercy of where the tree decides to fall. Take the time to clean all around the tree, especially where you are cutting, and know exactly where you are going to get out of harm's way if things go south on you. What this man should have said instead of a snarky "Thank you" is "You are exactly right. I should have removed all the cut branches from around the base of the tree. Thank you for pointing that out to everybody." Cutting down large trees is inherently dangerous work. Anybody who posts videos on "how to do it" should do their best to show the correct and safest way from start to Finnish.
Interesting technique! But for heavy back-leaners. Why not save a "safe corner" and drive 2-3 wedges and then release the corner. Is this not a bigger risk to split "barberchair" when doing a back cut? 🙂
I was thinking the same thing. I don't cut trees for a living but as soon as I saw the back cut, I said to myself, that looks like a recipe for a barber chair.
What's the advantage of this technique, specifically with a back leaner, vs a traditional back cut with wedges and a line? It's not as if the traditional method is lacking in control.
I prefer back cut first on trees with a back lean. However this method appears to allow you to leave more holding wood so when you put your face cut in first the tree doesn't sit back on your saw when you start your back cut. So you cut up to that first vertical bore and wedge instead of cutting up to your traditional holding wood. When out there cutting, you don't always have a line available.
It doesn't make sense until you are faced with a situation that may require it, so you'd definitely want to practice it when you didn't need it,or walk away when you are faced with this situation and let someone else do the work,or come back at a later date with proper gear and machine@@АлександрИванов-и3ф2ы
I really don't see a reason to waste time with this technique instead of just doing a bore cut and release from the back. You seem to be very good equipped, yet your surrounding area around the tree is not clean for your escape route. Therefore not how a professional should be teaching on UA-cam how to cut trees. Safety first inbthe woods
When it's crowded & messy like that... I take way more time cleaning up those potential paths to dodge into than I ever take dropping the actual tree 🌳 😂
I was looking for something like this because I have a tree that someone let grow into a building on my property. I can't cut on the backside of the tree because it's pushing the wall in. Its also leaning towards the building.
that wouldn't have been back leaning surely? else it would have pinched the saw on the back cut. I'd call that 'forward leaning' and the danger you're trying to avoid is barberchairing.
He had a pull line in that tree, ideally two thirds of the way up. Pre-tensioned of course, along with the shark gill cut there was no chance of it sitting back down on the bar.
@@Toyotaamazon80series I didn't see that. Seen a couple of his vids. He pulls them down a lot doesn't he? Or he chose to show a lot he's pulled. Whereas they're very unusual in vids from north america on tree felling.
@@abrogard142 He does residential tree surgery work so he's usually felling trees near structure, electrical lines and roads. For that reason he installs pull lines from the ground. I'd agree with him on that, I don't take chances near infrastructure. If you were out in the middle of a forest you could do want ever you wanted. He's good in fairness, he does nice clean work and can handle a saw.
Then do it on a back leaning tree so we can see how it works. Why are you using the plunge cuts? The deep cut right behind the wedge cut how does that work? Would have thought it creates a barber pole.
After my first barber chair experience, I now throw a logging chain around the trunk just above the cut making it impossible to split beyond the diameter of the chain placement.
Much less of a chance. The relief bore cuts basically make the holding wood stronger. Or better described as more flexible. They allow the tree to stay under the control of the face for a longer period of time. And give the holding wood the strength to overcome side lean.
William; The thing to keep in mind is slowing the fall of a tree often has a huge effect on other things. It's easier to cause a barber chair with the added strength of the holding wood. The other thing is. It's pretty easy to pull half of the stump out of the ground with sizwheel swing cuts and these relief bore cuts. It's best to gain experience with them out on your strip when production falling timber. Or at least out in the woods. This Shark Gill method is a great thing to know and have available for the right situations. But experience using it is important to gain in a place where something won't get smashed, killed or destroyed if something goes a bit different. For residential work, I'm a Big fan of climbing and rigging pulling and or pendelum lines . Or shooting a line up into the tree with a Big Shot or something, and pulling the rigging lines up from the ground. But , if you Got It and know that you can do it, free falling using techniques like this is a viable solution.
The branches lying around in the working and escape area contradict all safety efforts. In the forest, this technique is economic nonsense. In built-up areas and near roads it may have its justification. Also, in dry or minimally rotten wood, it could still provide higher guidance in the desired direction.
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Interesting to watch. Satisfying, even. Does look like a dull chain, though. Shooting dust? And... did I catch a glimpse of a wedge falling out? Didn't see you put the wedge in or how hard you drove it. How much did that factor into lifting it out of its lean before you pulled it over with... I guess I didn't see that, either. I turned up the volume and, are you using a come-along? Sounds like ratcheting, but not a crank winch but back-and-forth sound of a ... cable come-along? Or was it a ratchet strap? Just curious.
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK The chime of experience echoes the basis for need of awareness at all times. Through patience, comes recognition in its delight. 👍
This guy uses good safety gear, I'd recommend it all.... I've not seen other videos from him, but this one was very interesting. Stick with the very basics at first. Don't mess with big trees, or ones near houses or power lines until you get really good.
Looks like a recipe for a “Barber Chair “ , I might put a chain around and a bit above the highest plunge cut. Never seen this technique before. Old BC Hydro climber from the 70’s. They call’m Utility Arborists now.
Interesting 🤔 Cant say I've ever seen those cuts before. How far back was the tree leaning? I take it the tree was roped up before you starting cutting? Looked pretty cool 😎
I’ve never cut frozen wood but seems like it would be faster just to drop it but I live in the south and we mostly cut hardwood or softwood and I’ve actually seen people cut their front cuts differently than we do so I guess it’s just what you prefer or works for you 🤷🏼♂️
? How much back lean was there? You need to show what you were up against please. 👍 Wow that is a lot to consider..... Im going to think about this style/method. Thanks for the video.
Pařez lze definovat jako část stromu (zpravidla bázi kmene), která zůstává zakotvena kořeny v zemi. Standardní výška pařezu by měla být 1/3 průměru káceného stromu (měřeno na řezu). V případě náročných terénních podmínek lze ponechat i pařez přiměřeně vyšší.
Mikä on tuossa ylimmän pysty sahauksen tarkoitus ? ylin pystysahaus jää kaatuvaan puuhun eikä edes jousta koska kaatosahaus on alareunasta, tulisi joustoa kaatoon jos sahaisi yläreunasta .
Se juuri mahollistaa paksumman pitopuun, tai oikeastaan siis keskimmäinen, korkeus ei ole niin olennainen, vaan että pitopuu on keskeltä halki, jolloin se on ontto ja mahdollistaa taipumisen.
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Kyllä joo, mutta puuhan taipuu vain alempien pystysahauksien osalta, jos kaatosahaus olisi ylimmän pystysahauksen yläreunasta jolloin joustoa olisi enemmän, kaatuisiko ollenkaan?
@@tio4672 Itseasiassa kaatosahauksen korkeudella ei ole mitään merkitystä, onko se viimeisen pystysahauksen ylä- vai alareunasta. Jos katsot filmiä, näät miten se lähtee lohkeemaan pitkittäin umpipuuhun, tärkein tässä on tuo keskimmäinen sahaus ja tässä se olisi näyttänyt mekanismin paremmin, jos se olisi ollut korkeampi tai vähän alempana. Mut näähän selvii jokaiselle, ku vaan kokeilee ja kattoo, miten mikäkii toimii.
I've done something similar before. I call them 'vents' But I've never staggered them in a 'stepped up' fashion. Hmmmm,,,very good idea. I vent my hinges similar for brittle wood to make the hinges flex better
First I would like to say I can dig it, and will most definitely play around with it when I can pick up a saw again. I have worked with saws professionally for many years but my no means do I act like I know everything. I almost always annoy any people when I first start to work with them because I ask everyone questions to keep learning things I don’t know I don’t know. That being said, wouldn’t this be horrible for a new or home owner working on something stringy like an alder. I did catch the advanced part. But regardless I feel like someone could hurt themselves in a hurry if it became a barber chair. I just imagine someone trying to figure out the best way to take down their own problem tree with a bad lean or simply not understanding physics and see this and get some bad ideas. Maybe a sick tree or one with a heavy side splitting at a plunge site and turning the saw guy into a shish-kabob. No? If so, cool. No hate. Just asking. Lol. Thanks for the upload. Fun content.
Thank you! I agree, this is not for a rookie chainsaw handler. The cut is designed for situations when you need the hinge to be double wide. Most of those cases are for professionals only. Thank you for commenting, you have excellent points!
Looks like quite a faff, and im left not being quite sure what the advantage was? Maybe i shouldn't be telling trees, but It looked to me as if the tree would have gone over quite nicely with a normal mouth cut.
i have a tree that the base of the trunk heavily leans one way, then forms an “elbow” from which the top of the tree grew leaning the other way. Its an invasive tallow tree so want to remove, but not sure how to safely cut it.
That's pretty damn cool there Simo. I still occasionally try the tongue and groove when it doesn't matter. But I think currently I'm at 2-9 loosing streak. Very good video you make it look easy.
Куда наклонено было туда и свалил,так и без клина можно свалить,чего пень такой высокий оставил?покажите способ как свалить в другую сторону от наклона без приспособ всяких одной пилой
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Добрый вечер, очень интересно,а если сильно наклонен ствол дерева то этот метод не подойдёт, может зажать шину при пилении вертикальных пропилов,а если удастся их пропилить ,при пилении с задней стороны большая вероятность расщепления древесины,а это очень опасно, берегите себя,всех благ.
If you have to winch it vertical against the lean anyway, the extra cuts and hinges seem a waste of time. Wedges on the back cut and a winch would do the job anyway
Never had seen this before. Too bad i don't have a land clearing job where i could practice it a bunch. Didn’t look like it had all that much lean, but there certainly was a lot of holding wood available for a considerable amount of movement.
What's the point if you're using a come a long anyway? Just leave a decent amount of hinge wood and pull it over. No need to make it more difficult than it needs to be. I personally can't see an advantage to using this style of cut when you're using something that's going to pull the tree the direction you're planning.
In my opinion, this is a technique for someone who works alone (which is stupid in dangerous work). If you have a second person with a puller or excavator to help you, you can do it much faster
This technique with anything harder than spruce and ever so slightly oversized hinge is perfect way to create barberchairs. Even this one was at the verge of splitting upwards. If you have the winch anyway, I wouldn't waste time. I always just set the rope, tension it moderately, depending on the situation either standard of humboldt notch and borecut to finish, setting some safety wedges while going, just in case the lean is too much for the rope or something else I overlooked. And it also needs lot more pull strength to get that hinge going, it's quite thick.. All and all nice clean cut, but I don't see the advantages, sorry..
Eine sehr gute Methode ist auch die von den Bayrischen Staatsforsten gezeigte, sie ist sehr sicher und auch einfacher um zusetzten meiner Meinung nach, die hier gezeigte Methode benötigt auch noch eine Seilwinde oder ähnliches. Die Sicherheitsfälltechnik wird sehr gut erklär in diesem Video: ua-cam.com/video/44oIX1ADA8E/v-deo.html (und auch noch in bayrisch .💪😅
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
*In this video I'm using the Shark Gill technique in real work, with an actual back leaning tree:* ua-cam.com/video/mgwKS871urU/v-deo.html
Awesome job! Thank you for sharing! Stay safe😊
Хорошая техника и еще нужно бензовоз таскать собой
Very cool. When I was very young saw my father do this but didn't know what it was. Thank you for the detail! My only criticism is all of the cut branch debris at the base while you were cutting. Dad taught me to clear area so if something starts to go bad I wouldn't trip getting out of the way.
I just felled a beast of a tree today, on a very steep slope. I made sure to keep it all clean, and to know exactly where I could escape to from each position around the tree. I.e., I fully agree!
Полностью согласен, раз видео преподносят как обучающее, или ознакомительное, то и эти ветки под ногами нужно было убрать. Самому приятнее было бы работать. И безопаснее!
I have used this several times. Even when it's not critical, it is great to be able to control the falling rate with the multiple hinges. Great technique.
Nice! You are the first one!
What’s it for ?
If you compare it to a normal face cut where as soon as the acecut closes and the holding wood breaks, control of the tree is on its own. Using this technique, the layered hinges you create with the vertical cuts will hold longer and bend resulting in a longer, slower, more controlled felling of the stalk. In my limited experience, the longer you can control the stalk to the ground, the less risk to surrounding objects and the less turf damage. If you have a wide open area with nothing at risk of being g destroyed, this may be a waste of your time. It's definitely not for production driven jobs. Try it out. It's pretty enjoyable.
@@rickdebacker100 Longer/slower felling apt when your escape is not obstacle free. Llikely apt for a leaner I have in corner, juncture of 2 fences… wish plenty of time to escape. Also (guessing) guide ropes more effective on slower fell especially as some trunk rot adds an unknown, thus the guide-ropes for extra margin for error.
I agree@@gr8dvd
Thst sir was a beautiful job! Ive cut trees for 10 years and thats how a true professional does it!
This is a great demonstration of the importance of holding wood and what that wood is actually doing inside the tree. This is unbelievable. Makes complete since after watching though. WOW!!
Thank you very much, I wish everyone would see it like you did 👍🏻
N̈o
Ну если нужно свалить одно дерево, то можно и повыеживаться...если больше делать нечего.
Да, это предназначено только для особых случаев.
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Так, а чем этот способ отличается от обычного запила направленной валки под 30°-45°
Подскажите, пожалуйста)
@@Roman_Av как я понял таким образом удерживающая древесина становится более крепкой, и гибкой, от чего дерево дольше остаётся какбы на пеньке, точнее держится его, от чего и более контролируемо падение, меньше шансов что пойдет на сторону, или его покрутит, и оно упадет не туда куда хочешь
Когда делать нечего или нужно людям мозги засрать.
Такой метод подходит.
@@avdeos
Становится более крепкой и гибкой? Это за счёт чего происходят подобные... волшебные изменения свойств древесины?))
What is the pulling portion of this? I would also appreciate showing the lean.
ua-cam.com/video/xz8dYR_yNzU/v-deo.html
You say, PUlling . With what??
Genius
Never heard of the technique before, is this practical or just something that tree surgeons came up with to make it look cool?
There are other techniques to leave the hinge wider. This is one of many, but definitely not just for surgeons...
That will work on frozen timber.
I've used double sizwheel bore cuts to swing hard frozen spruce , aspen and birch. It's the best that can be done to strengthen frozen holding wood.
BUT
it's an easy way to get quite a barberchair if someone does it in the summertime when the holding wood is really strong.
Sounds like I need to retry this summer
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK
Unless you have to Really have to swing a tree a long ways and are in a hurry. Like you are Bushlin, ( falling timber and only getting paid for the volume of timber you get on the ground and limbed and bucked. Or just tree length.
There is no reason to take that much time fooling around on the stump.
The Only thing those bore cuts do is make the holding wood stronger and gives the holding wood more time to pull a side leaning tree into the lay you have for it.
If you want to take a chance ripping a tree up the middle, having the butt run out behind the stump then fall off to one side or the other. Possibly from as much as 20 meters Up. . Go for it. Just so ya know that you will be taking a normally Dangerous job . And making it 4 times MORE Dangerous. With no benifit to be had.
The bore cuts like you did are useful with Frozen timber.
If you can get your timber to go where it needs to with just a wedge or 3. And normal conventional cuts. That is the better , safer and faster route to go.
@@glenurquhart2300 Thank you
I wouldn't do it with an ash. The saw appears to not be very sharp.
I thought he was just asking for a barber chair . I do one high plunge cut, bring the rpms down to feel inside, and then I cut all the fiber material if it was not hollow .
Then I do a normal wedge and back cut much lower than my gutting technique about a foot . If it is a big tree, I will do a wedge and then a bore behind the hinge working towards the trigger . After my gutting cuts on pines
Nice work, great job. The video would be enhanced by standing back and showing the viewers the lean of the tree. Apart from that, a great explanation of your cuts.
Never saw this technique. But I'm concerned how many times you stumbled on the debris around the tree.
Thank you
Yeah, first thing I noticed, too. If something starts to go wrong and you need to get away from the tree in a hurry, that mess at the base of the tree could very easily trip you up (especially with snow on the ground) and you are suddenly at the mercy of where the tree decides to fall. Take the time to clean all around the tree, especially where you are cutting, and know exactly where you are going to get out of harm's way if things go south on you. What this man should have said instead of a snarky "Thank you" is "You are exactly right. I should have removed all the cut branches from around the base of the tree. Thank you for pointing that out to everybody." Cutting down large trees is inherently dangerous work. Anybody who posts videos on "how to do it" should do their best to show the correct and safest way from start to Finnish.
Home owners 😂😂😂
That stuff was only in front it seemed...didn’t appear to impact his primary escape route
@chickenlegs yeah no kidding... there won’t always be perfect cutting situations...
Had to watch to the very end for the , " big Finnish." Thanks
Thank you and welcome to my channel!
Thank you for that demonstration!
Thank you Gusty for commenting!
Interesting technique! But for heavy back-leaners. Why not save a "safe corner" and drive 2-3 wedges and then release the corner. Is this not a bigger risk to split "barberchair" when doing a back cut? 🙂
That is a good point, and another way to solve this problem
I was thinking the same thing. I don't cut trees for a living but as soon as I saw the back cut, I said to myself, that looks like a recipe for a barber chair.
I use this cut to bind a side leaned tree to the lay. But you need to bore cut the center of the hinge to keep the barberchair from traveling.
The guy who's been making it popular hasn't had any problems with chairs, he uses it for residential tree work.
@Brett Black just got to pay attention bore cuts aren't really something you do safely and efficiently without practice
What's the advantage of this technique, specifically with a back leaner, vs a traditional back cut with wedges and a line? It's not as if the traditional method is lacking in control.
Well, it definitely takes longer and burns more saw gas, if that's what a guy is after.
I prefer back cut first on trees with a back lean. However this method appears to allow you to leave more holding wood so when you put your face cut in first the tree doesn't sit back on your saw when you start your back cut. So you cut up to that first vertical bore and wedge instead of cutting up to your traditional holding wood. When out there cutting, you don't always have a line available.
Skilled tradesman.
Silly thing is...
this video is one the greatest examples I've seen of drawing comments out of know-it-alls without a clue.
Lol.
That is the end state for many of my videos
not to mention gratuitous 'add nothing to the debate' borderline insulting ad hominems...
Just what I needed and will do for a large heavily leaning spruce near a highway. Thanx. Kiitti.
Excellent! Ole hyvä!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Cool technique. A lot of these hacks require quite a bit of technical saw work that is beyond many people who will try to use them.
Интересно, но большого смысла не имеет, а вот труда много требуется!
Я дуже згоден
It doesn't make sense until you are faced with a situation that may require it, so you'd definitely want to practice it when you didn't need it,or walk away when you are faced with this situation and let someone else do the work,or come back at a later date with proper gear and machine@@АлександрИванов-и3ф2ы
🤝Спасибо Вам огромное....
Вы дали очень хорошую подсказку, как надо валить дерево с максимальным контролем👍👍👍
I really don't see a reason to waste time with this technique instead of just doing a bore cut and release from the back. You seem to be very good equipped, yet your surrounding area around the tree is not clean for your escape route. Therefore not how a professional should be teaching on UA-cam how to cut trees. Safety first inbthe woods
When it's crowded & messy like that...
I take way more time cleaning up those potential paths to dodge into than I ever take dropping the actual tree 🌳 😂
I was looking for something like this because I have a tree that someone let grow into a building on my property. I can't cut on the backside of the tree because it's pushing the wall in. Its also leaning towards the building.
@@NickHowlssounds like you’ll have to climb it and take pieces out
How did it go @NickHowls ?
@@NickHowlspls answer, we bother
that wouldn't have been back leaning surely? else it would have pinched the saw on the back cut. I'd call that 'forward leaning' and the danger you're trying to avoid is barberchairing.
You are not understanding how this cut works. A little back lean is not going to sit down on the back cut. I do this on a regular basis.
He had a pull line in that tree, ideally two thirds of the way up. Pre-tensioned of course, along with the shark gill cut there was no chance of it sitting back down on the bar.
@@Toyotaamazon80series I didn't see that. Seen a couple of his vids. He pulls them down a lot doesn't he? Or he chose to show a lot he's pulled. Whereas they're very unusual in vids from north america on tree felling.
@@abrogard142 He does residential tree surgery work so he's usually felling trees near structure, electrical lines and roads. For that reason he installs pull lines from the ground. I'd agree with him on that, I don't take chances near infrastructure. If you were out in the middle of a forest you could do want ever you wanted. He's good in fairness, he does nice clean work and can handle a saw.
That said I don't install pull lines like he does, I either use a throw line, a big shot launcher or I'll climb them and install a line that way.
Not sure of ideal use case here, but creative. Seems like a standard cut would have worked as well?
Yes, this was a demonstration on a tree standing tall. The cut is designed for back leaning trees 🌲
Then do it on a back leaning tree so we can see how it works. Why are you using the plunge cuts? The deep cut right behind the wedge cut how does that work? Would have thought it creates a barber pole.
I will, just a moment.
😂 try that nonsence on a 100ft Mtn ash here in aus will slab out an an tear you in half ☠️
Lot of job for a small tree..
But very creative !
Cool man
Thank you, the technique is designed for difficult back leaners
rule number one cleanliness at the workplace
#1
a.s.m.r. at its best - I'm loving it
Please check my latest video, it is better ASMR
Interesting, I have never seen this technique used. At one point it looked like it was splitting vertically and I thought it might Barber chair.
Here is a video where I'm using a tailored version of the shark gill on a tree removal job: ua-cam.com/video/7ja_s503iHw/v-deo.html
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK thanks, I'll watch it for sure
After my first barber chair experience, I now throw a logging chain around the trunk just above the cut making it impossible to split beyond the diameter of the chain placement.
@@rickdebacker100 great idea
@@rickdebacker100 100%...the chain is part of my arsenal, takes literally minutes to install and years of security.
This is pretty interesting. Is there more, or less of a chance of the tree breaking off the hinge before it starts to fall?
Much less of a chance. The relief bore cuts basically make the holding wood stronger. Or better described as more flexible. They allow the tree to stay under the control of the face for a longer period of time. And give the holding wood the strength to overcome side lean.
Couldn't say it better, thank you!
@@glenurquhart2300 Gotcha, Thank you Glen.
Basically adding hinge wood layers
William; The thing to keep in mind is slowing the fall of a tree often has a huge effect on other things.
It's easier to cause a barber chair with the added strength of the holding wood.
The other thing is. It's pretty easy to pull half of the stump out of the ground with sizwheel swing cuts and these relief bore cuts.
It's best to gain experience with them out on your strip when production falling timber. Or at least out in the woods.
This Shark Gill method is a great thing to know and have available for the right situations. But experience using it is important to gain in a place where something won't get smashed, killed or destroyed if something goes a bit different.
For residential work, I'm a Big fan of climbing and rigging pulling and or pendelum lines . Or shooting a line up into the tree with a Big Shot or something, and pulling the rigging lines up from the ground.
But , if you Got It and know that you can do it, free falling using techniques like this is a viable solution.
The branches lying around in the working and escape area contradict all safety efforts.
In the forest, this technique is economic nonsense.
In built-up areas and near roads it may have its justification. Also, in dry or minimally rotten wood, it could still provide higher guidance in the desired direction.
You are right
Lots of badasses and experts here. Lots.
Yeah, we're tired of pulling trees off kids and parents.
Lots of idiots who spew immature vulgarity like badass.
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But you are using a stihl saw!
Interesting to watch. Satisfying, even. Does look like a dull chain, though. Shooting dust? And... did I catch a glimpse of a wedge falling out? Didn't see you put the wedge in or how hard you drove it. How much did that factor into lifting it out of its lean before you pulled it over with... I guess I didn't see that, either. I turned up the volume and, are you using a come-along? Sounds like ratcheting, but not a crank winch but back-and-forth sound of a ... cable come-along? Or was it a ratchet strap? Just curious.
Warm welcome to my channel
dude take 15 seconds and clear those tripping hazards
They kept me from falling into the snow, and slipping
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK The chime of experience echoes the basis for need of awareness at all times. Through patience, comes recognition in its delight. 👍
This was amazing to watch! Such smooth cuts and effortless control. I'm just learning to use a saw so these videos will certainly help
Don't use this cut, IMO.
Be safe
This guy uses good safety gear, I'd recommend it all.... I've not seen other videos from him, but this one was very interesting. Stick with the very basics at first. Don't mess with big trees, or ones near houses or power lines until you get really good.
Спасибо, дельный практичный метод, надо попробовать, но почему на уровне пояса, там пень под метр высотой?
Спасибо, он обрезан высоко только для демонстрационных целей. Я сделал еще один разрез, чтобы обрезать пень меньше.
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK 🤝👍
Looks like a recipe for a “Barber Chair “ , I might put a chain around and a bit above the highest plunge cut. Never seen this technique before. Old BC Hydro climber from the 70’s. They call’m Utility Arborists now.
Different. Does that work well on hardwoods also ??
Yes it does, but you should cut the vertical cuts taller to avoid the wood braking. Softer trees are more flexible
Interesting 🤔 Cant say I've ever seen those cuts before. How far back was the tree leaning? I take it the tree was roped up before you starting cutting? Looked pretty cool 😎
The tree was standing straight, it was easier to film the cutting on a straight tree.
I don’t know if I’d consider this a heavy back leaner. I’d love to see it in action
Not seen that before, will try it on a few easier trees.
I’ve never cut frozen wood but seems like it would be faster just to drop it but I live in the south and we mostly cut hardwood or softwood and I’ve actually seen people cut their front cuts differently than we do so I guess it’s just what you prefer or works for you 🤷🏼♂️
Thanks for commenting, this is a demonstration of a special technique for back-leaning trees
We just throw ropes up into them and pull if it’s not around anything
Me too, in this sunday's video I'm using two lines to pull the tree down, and I'm using the Shark Gill in action
Tank you very much. It's a great video, really satisfying work. Saludos desde México. 👏👏👏😄
❤️🇲🇽❤️
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Finland, the nation of Simo Häyhä ❤️🇫🇮❤️
And Mika Häkkinen, Darude, Jari Litmanen, Ari Vatanen…
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK nice people 💪 saludos
? How much back lean was there?
You need to show what you were up against please. 👍
Wow that is a lot to consider..... Im going to think about this style/method.
Thanks for the video.
thanks. not seen this before. is shaving the sides the same as side or wing cut?
I’m not sure what it is called
ua-cam.com/users/shortsHA-YuKPSVUE?feature=share
Too advanced?
This is a great idea!
I'll use this during the next days to train my skills!
Thank you, sir!
Thank you Michael!
I am VERY impressed!
Thank you
Pařez lze definovat jako část stromu (zpravidla bázi kmene), která zůstává zakotvena kořeny v zemi. Standardní výška pařezu by měla být 1/3 průměru káceného stromu (měřeno na řezu). V případě náročných terénních podmínek lze ponechat i pařez přiměřeně vyšší.
So did you use a winch or come along, because I think you had to pull that tree over?
Let me show you: ua-cam.com/video/xz8dYR_yNzU/v-deo.html
Sauber gefällt, klappt das auch bei einem um 90Grad zur Seite Hänger?
Es kommt darauf an, wie viel Zugkraft du zur Verfügung hast
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Zugkraft in Fallrichtung oder etwas seitlich entgegen der Richtung in die der Baum hängt?
Да..нефига с такой скоростью незаработаешь
Нет, вы не правы. Это дерево только для немногих профессионалов
Mikä on tuossa ylimmän pysty sahauksen tarkoitus ? ylin pystysahaus jää kaatuvaan puuhun eikä edes jousta koska kaatosahaus on alareunasta, tulisi joustoa kaatoon jos sahaisi yläreunasta .
Se juuri mahollistaa paksumman pitopuun, tai oikeastaan siis keskimmäinen, korkeus ei ole niin olennainen, vaan että pitopuu on keskeltä halki, jolloin se on ontto ja mahdollistaa taipumisen.
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Kyllä joo, mutta puuhan taipuu vain alempien pystysahauksien osalta, jos kaatosahaus olisi ylimmän pystysahauksen yläreunasta jolloin joustoa olisi enemmän, kaatuisiko ollenkaan?
@@tio4672 Itseasiassa kaatosahauksen korkeudella ei ole mitään merkitystä, onko se viimeisen pystysahauksen ylä- vai alareunasta. Jos katsot filmiä, näät miten se lähtee lohkeemaan pitkittäin umpipuuhun, tärkein tässä on tuo keskimmäinen sahaus ja tässä se olisi näyttänyt mekanismin paremmin, jos se olisi ollut korkeampi tai vähän alempana. Mut näähän selvii jokaiselle, ku vaan kokeilee ja kattoo, miten mikäkii toimii.
Why do you use this technique instead of the regular bore cut & back release? Marc, Quebec, Canada 🇨🇦 Thanks!
I believe this cut is for trees leaning in the opposite direction you want them to fall. That why it was pulled over.
how much lean was in this? i dont think anything less than 75 degrees will work with out a pull rope
almost 0, to help the video shooting
Отличный способ валки👍👍👍
Is this to slow the the fall?
The main point is to maximize the thickness of the hinge. That gives the feller the maximum directional control to pull the back leaning tree down
Can you do another video of this with a tree that has a REAL back lean over a mansion?
I've done something similar before. I call them 'vents'
But I've never staggered them in a 'stepped up' fashion. Hmmmm,,,very good idea.
I vent my hinges similar for brittle wood to make the hinges flex better
I like it. Been watching these different techniques for falling trees. Very interesting.
😃👍🏻👍🏻
What about if the tree is hollow inside? Is it still a safe method?
No
Good job!
First I would like to say I can dig it, and will most definitely play around with it when I can pick up a saw again. I have worked with saws professionally for many years but my no means do I act like I know everything. I almost always annoy any people when I first start to work with them because I ask everyone questions to keep learning things I don’t know I don’t know.
That being said, wouldn’t this be horrible for a new or home owner working on something stringy like an alder. I did catch the advanced part. But regardless I feel like someone could hurt themselves in a hurry if it became a barber chair.
I just imagine someone trying to figure out the best way to take down their own problem tree with a bad lean or simply not understanding physics and see this and get some bad ideas. Maybe a sick tree or one with a heavy side splitting at a plunge site and turning the saw guy into a shish-kabob.
No?
If so, cool. No hate. Just asking. Lol.
Thanks for the upload. Fun content.
Thank you!
I agree, this is not for a rookie chainsaw handler. The cut is designed for situations when you need the hinge to be double wide. Most of those cases are for professionals only.
Thank you for commenting, you have excellent points!
As long Every one is safe and happy its ok for me. Maybe it take a more time..
Nice to see a new way to felling tree though
Thank you Roger!
Not sure if it was camera angle or not, but that tree was so heavily leaning back that I couldn’t tell it wasn’t leaning forward.
On a back leaner the fibers bend more so it holds longer insted of snapping off..
I put a longer face cut with this technique.
Thank you
Looks like quite a faff, and im left not being quite sure what the advantage was? Maybe i shouldn't be telling trees, but It looked to me as if the tree would have gone over quite nicely with a normal mouth cut.
The video was to show the cutting technique and the behavior of the hinge.
Very interesting technique 👍👀
Thank you
Interesting. Good work;)
Thank you!
3 seconds in and you are smashing the brake into the tree. What a pro.
Thanks
It slows the falling down I guess. Any other reasons to do a second hinge (if I can call it like that)?
I was hoping to see the tool used to pull the tree down. (or push?)
Learn How To Pull a Tree Down Safely
ua-cam.com/video/xz8dYR_yNzU/v-deo.html
i have a tree that the base of the trunk heavily leans one way, then forms an “elbow” from which the top of the tree grew leaning the other way. Its an invasive tallow tree so want to remove, but not sure how to safely cut it.
That's pretty damn cool there Simo. I still occasionally try the tongue and groove when it doesn't matter. But I think currently I'm at 2-9 loosing streak. Very good video you make it look easy.
Thank you! I just filmed a new version of the Tongue & Groove, and I failed ⅔ so I feel you. Practise makes you perfect!
Куда наклонено было туда и свалил,так и без клина можно свалить,чего пень такой высокий оставил?покажите способ как свалить в другую сторону от наклона без приспособ всяких одной пилой
Легче прицелиться и показать тебе с более высоким пеньком
You can do this only on certain species and if its perfectly sound and alive, I would think.
Good job 👏 👍
Для чего так извращаться ,Я так и не понял, первое долго, второе пень оставил очень высокий,и самое главное рвёт древесину,метр на выброс.
Техника предназначена для наклоненных назад деревьев.
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Добрый вечер, очень интересно,а если сильно наклонен ствол дерева то этот метод не подойдёт, может зажать шину при пилении вертикальных пропилов,а если удастся их пропилить ,при пилении с задней стороны большая вероятность расщепления древесины,а это очень опасно, берегите себя,всех благ.
Não consigo ver as vantagens nessa maneira de cortar a madeira
É projetado para árvores inclinadas para trás
If you have to winch it vertical against the lean anyway, the extra cuts and hinges seem a waste of time. Wedges on the back cut and a winch would do the job anyway
This technique is made for the situations when those normal routines don't work, or they are too risky.
Never had seen this before. Too bad i don't have a land clearing job where i could practice it a bunch.
Didn’t look like it had all that much lean, but there certainly was a lot of holding wood available for a considerable amount of movement.
What's the point if you're using a come a long anyway? Just leave a decent amount of hinge wood and pull it over. No need to make it more difficult than it needs to be. I personally can't see an advantage to using this style of cut when you're using something that's going to pull the tree the direction you're planning.
very...very...interesting!
Good way to get some overtime
Despite all the many knowalls on here,who can't keep their cake holes shut " U DONE A MAGNIFICENTJOB !"
Thank you very much Gunter! I appreciate your feedback a lot! People have hard time to see the forest instead of the trees ( a Finnish saying)
In my opinion, this is a technique for someone who works alone (which is stupid in dangerous work). If you have a second person with a puller or excavator to help you, you can do it much faster
Aika erikoistapaus pitää ollaa,että semmoista rupeaisin tekemään.Mutta Jounilla onnistui hyviin👍🏻
👍👍
Chcel by som to vidieť v praxi kde človek ledva stojí v kopci že ako dlho by ho to bavilo robiť 🤔 a nie na rovinách sa hrať s kahancom čo ledva reže 😂
Nie je určený pre každú situáciu...
"learned" that leaving the branches where you have to walk around is pro...... Hello carelessness, goodbye safety!
👋🏻
That's a good way to have the tree barber chair on you really easily. Do not try that on really tall standing trees with a lean to it
Yes, but only in some cases
May I know why the gilles?
To give flexibility
Perfect for initiating barber chair
What is the most common Tree to barberchair there?
@Finnish Lumberjack not sure, but I witnessed a black cherry have a pretty significant barberchair once.
@@bryanbabb5185 Barberchairing isn't very common here. I'm struggling to make a demo video about it because I have to force it.
@Finnish Lumberjack I don't think it happens often, but I try to do things to help avoid it
Yes, risk management is very important in our business
what exactly is the gill right on the face cut for?
Молодец, отличная работа!
Большое спасибо!
Hyvä Jouni! 💪🏻🎅🏻🇫🇮🇫🇮🇫🇮
😃👍🏻👍🏻
Če je to najboljša tehnika... osebno mislim da je prezakomplicirana.
🫡
Takes some control and confidence to use the tip of the saw 😅
Oh yes, you need to know what you’re doing
Awesome
This technique with anything harder than spruce and ever so slightly oversized hinge is perfect way to create barberchairs. Even this one was at the verge of splitting upwards. If you have the winch anyway, I wouldn't waste time. I always just set the rope, tension it moderately, depending on the situation either standard of humboldt notch and borecut to finish, setting some safety wedges while going, just in case the lean is too much for the rope or something else I overlooked. And it also needs lot more pull strength to get that hinge going, it's quite thick.. All and all nice clean cut, but I don't see the advantages, sorry..
⛔️ Safety First, when your
nowhere near a hospital, your life may depend on videos like this. 🌲
👍🏻👍🏻
i woodnt be surprised if this video hasnt put people in the hospital ,
Eine sehr gute Methode ist auch die von den Bayrischen Staatsforsten gezeigte, sie ist sehr sicher und auch einfacher um zusetzten meiner Meinung nach, die hier gezeigte Methode benötigt auch noch eine Seilwinde oder ähnliches. Die Sicherheitsfälltechnik wird sehr gut erklär in diesem Video: ua-cam.com/video/44oIX1ADA8E/v-deo.html (und auch noch in bayrisch .💪😅
Nice Video!!!
Thank you!