I am a Joe Blow home owner who has had to cut trees down in the past. I have always had the basic concept of how to do it but never understood the reasons for some of the steps. Thanks to you, I now have a much better understanding and can be a lot safer on my next drop. Thank you for taking the time to educate all of us.
I'm in the same boat as you.. Always knew I didn't know enough, so always played super conservative.. A little greater depth of knowledge is definitely a good thing!
See my posts above. Coming down to meet the wedge is all advantage and helps the overall geometry. Other advantages include less chance of trapping your blade
Same. I've only cut smaller trees - maybe a foot to two feet in diameter - and I had a basic understanding of the wedge cut method, but not the full comprehension of WHY. The worst I've encountered is my blade getting pinched in the tree, and now I know that was because my wedge cut wasn't done properly. I've also had issues with my back cut being too high, which resulted in my having to cut almost all of the way through the tree before my wedge let it fall where I wanted.
Hey brother, good video! As a Professional Journeyman Trimmer Treeman class AA Teir 3, I always watch these videos seeing if the people on here are actually passing on quality knowledge! You're right on with your proportions of the notch, hinge, and back cut! Just a tip that I learned about 5 years into doing tree work from a competition climber that was job shadowing a safety guy over our area of the company, is: When notching MAKE THE TOP CUT FIRST! I know this seems very counter intuitive, but by doing this, you set your depth of the the cut and direction of the notch just as if you were doing the lower cut, so same as always. BUT having that top cut in first, allows you ty have a line of sight through the curf of the top cut, so you can see exactly where your bar is in relation to where you need to make your Apex meet up... I tried this on the very next felling operation I did and it was CRAFT CHANGING in its ease of execution. You will begin getting a perfect Apex with no bypass on either corner, on your first attempt, every operation. Please give it a try and holla back if you want but I don't think You'll regret it brother!
I've dropped at least 100 over the years on my property with only knowing the basics. Thank you so much for this video and a definitive guide for the future. Takes some of the anxiety out of dropping the big ones for me.
Nice to see you are open to showing mistakes. So many are afraid to admit small mistakes but that's how you become great and do things safely. Thanks for the video, taught me some good tips.
Explaining not just what to do, but what happens if you DON'T do it right. Excellent. Thank you. As mentioned by others, always plan and clear your exit path. "How many ways can this go wrong?"
Thank you for this video. I am 59 y.o. and have 6 acres of heavily forested land that I manage alone. I am always concerned when taking trees down. I had one really near some electrical lines, my well and a carport to take down today. I was really nervous about this going wrong. I never really appreciated the need to spend time on the initial wedge/birds mouth cut. You really explained it so I understand why it's important and it's relation to the dreaded barber chair. The other points were taking out the middle of the hinge and cutting a line to follow for the back cut to keep it straight which I had never known about before. Just want to say of all the videos I have watched, this is the most helpful and have watched it several times.
I'm a 55 y o woman and recently bought a homestead dense with old and young trees (and a chainsaw). Just wanted to say hi as I was so glad to see another like me :)
After watching this video I was able to cut my first tree down. It was a rather large pine tree, and it couldn't have gone any better!! My wedge, back cut, and hinge were flawless and fell EXACTLY where I wanted. I wish I could show you some pictures, all the credit goes to you! Thanks for the great lesson!
As a beginner, remember that if you hold your arm at a 45 degree angle and find the point along the ground that your fingers point at the top.. that's how far it will lay on the ground. Always have wedges in your pocket, not "close" but in your pocket.. and 1 more than you think you need... With axe or hammer to knock them in. Happy cutting. Keep watching tutorials. If you start using ropes.. always tension the stretch of the rope too.. or the rope will be useless. For extra security look at a tree jack if you think you might hit a building.
As a climbing Arborist for over twenty years I can tell you that you explained this almost exactly as I would have. Many people underestimate the negative impact of over cuts.. surfaces that bind are always to be avoided.
I have felled a fair number of trees, built engines, cabinets, etc and yet, I watch others with instructional videos here that _always_ manage to teach me something new. This was a very good video and I came away from it a bit more knowledgeable. Thanks FarmCraft101!
I deal with hazard trees around campgrounds and buildings and I'd say that you have a pretty good understanding of how its done. When er aren't using the plunge cut method, we strive for a hinge that is two or three inches, maybe a bit more for large diameter trees. Using wedges is good; they prevent the tree from sitting back and binding your saw, and can be used to coax the tree to go over in the right direction. When its possible, I usually stick the tip of a wedge into the kerf as I nibble away at the middle of the hinge. This allows me to watch the wedge for movement. If it goes up, the tree is sitting back; if it goes down or falls out, the tree is going in the right direction. Sometimes I need to stack my wedges and pound them both in a little at a time. This doubles the thickness of my wedges and usually convinces a stubborn tree to play team ball. When making your front cut, it can help to us a "Humboldt" cut where the angled portion of the wedge is on the bottom. This allows the trunk of the tree to slide in front of the stump and hit the ground first, preventing checks and damage to wood you want to salvage. I like it because I know that there is a better chance that the trunk is going to move away from the stump in the direction the tree is falling, and not back towards me or my escape routes. Some other folks have mentioned it but chaps are absolutely essential, along with all of your other PPE. Stay safe and thanks for the cool content!
Agreed. I always use them now. I have cut many trees here in Hawaii and I had an incident where I was finishing a job I had been working on for days. I was cutting small trees on the side of a hill and it started raining but I wanted to finish. I slipped and the blade hit my left thigh. It cut through my 3 layered jeans, shorts, and boxers and bounced off. had only a small cut but had a heart-stopping moment of gratefulness and knowing I got lucky. I never use a chainsaw without my chaps now
Weakening the hinge with your center cuts is brilliant. It weakens the hinge exactly where strength is no longer needed and retains hinge strength in that line which runs perpendicular to the intended fall line.
I just came here to thank you. I built a house in 2020 and left some large trees near the house. Well those large trees ended up dying and the limbs were getting dangerous. Two of those trees were around 60-70 feet tall and were only anout 20 feet from my house. I did a lot of research about how to cut them down safely. After this video I really felt like I had a good enderstaning of not just "how" but the "why" also. Cut six trees down today using my truck and a very long 1/2" wire rope attached my my truck as a safety. Your instructions were spot on and every tree fell exactly where I wanted it to go. Thanks for the great video.
To say this creation was well-thought out is an absolute understatement. My appreciation for this information is ad infinitum. I'm 33, a little nervous about cutting larger trees, and am most grateful I 1. UA-camd it and 2. was guided to watch THIS video specifically.
Wow!! I just turned 70 and this video brought back memories of pulp wooding in high school. The guy I worked with also trimmed residential trees and was an absolute wizard at setting up ropes to keep branches off of houses and making them go where he wanted them to go. Great video.🌲🌳😁
Thank you, I am a strong, confident, patient and smart woman. First time tackling a 25 ft. 20 year old tree. Your video was valuable to my success. I made sure that I knew exactly how you demonstrated to do it, took my time making my manual cuts and I am so happy. Probably just saved $500 and get the satisfaction of success.🎉
Learn a running bowline to use when pulling trees. It's far safer than a plain slipknot. I work in the tree business and it's an everyday knot for us. Also a timber hitch is useful in your situation. Great video tho. Also we call the wedge cut a notch.
Nice video on cutting techniques. I have felled a lot of trees and taught young people as well but as a former EMT my one main complaint is no chainsaw safety chaps. I've had to treat too many homeowners and so-called pros who cut their legs when they were jumping back from a falling tree and the saw swung down and caught their legs when they were yanking it out of the cut, particularly if it was jamming. Safer to leave it there and get out of the way. A new bar and chain are cheap enough. You should also teach the "escape path" and clearing any hazards on that path. You were trying to jump over some brush in the video. Not smart. Chainsaws are deadly so stress safety first.
Yaaaaas, escape paths are absolutely necessary. For trees you can predict and that aren't prone to barber chairing, it may not seem like as big a deal, but getting in the habit is such a good thing. In general, though, someone who doesn't know what they're doing probably shouldn't try knocking down a tree thicker than a foot. Got a monster 20-24" oak in my own backyard that I refuse to touch myself (because of its lean and damage, tho, it probably should come down; it's right up against a fence and leaning with some rot near the base). The biggest problem with regular people cutting trees isn't their lack of experience; it's the false sense of security and 'how hard can it be' mentality.
I would almost go as far as stating that chaps are even more important if you've been at it for some years and got lots of experience. Inexperienced users tend to always act as if the saw will cut their legs of and are therefore very careful. But as a rule: ALWAYS wear chaps, no mather your skill level. Stay safe!
I've seen many videos of how to cut a tree in the past, but this is the first video that clearly explains and demonstrates the "science" behind it. I certainly added this to my faves list as I'm likely to revisit this sometime in the future to make sure I didn't forget anything. Thank you for your great work!
Love this guy. No nonsense, no fluff, but real and sensible information explained at every point in easy to understand terms, His mistakes whether on purpose or not are actually even more informative to show what can go wrong and that he's as human as the rest of us. Excellent
@FarmCraft101, this is an outstanding video of how to fell trees the correct way. Using clear and concise directions and descriptions, you showed the right way to go about it, but you did something helpful that I have not seen other content creators do. And that was this: You actually took the time to also explain and demonstrate the INCORRECT ways to fell a tree, showing exactly what happens when it's done wrong. Personally, for me, seeing the wrong methods to fell trees and learning why they're wrong was equally as beneficial as learning the correct way. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You gained a subscriber.
This is hands down the best tree cutting video I have ever watched. Thanks for such a great explanation. Now I know why all the things that have gone wrong (like the kick back from to low of a back cut and many others). Based on watching this and past experience you have taken the concern I have had about dropping a tree near my well head. Now I know I am good to go. Thanks again.
exactly...his back cut, especially on that 2nd ash was even angled down from the first cut of the pie...with a heavy tree it's in danger of falling in the opposite direction that you intend..very dangerous
Thank you so much for this video! I am a country boy falling trees with daddy since I was a kid. Doing it the way we saw others do, without really understanding why you do it that way. Every year someone gets killed, in the local area. Now I understand I was doing it wrong. You may have saved a life!
I'm a professional arberist very well explained of what too do and don't do. Keep educating the DIY person. Stay safe. If needed call a professional to help.
Great video. I did not realize it was important to do the wedge cut accurately. And if it doesn't turn out accurate, then make it so before doing the back cut. Two years ago, my neighbor wanted me to cut down a dead tree because it was right next to a fence. If it fell the wrong way, it would take out the fence. I started in and soon enough a small branch fell off and hit me in the face. I felt very fortunate that it only hurt a little, could have been a lot worse. I said, "ok, I am done. If it falls on the fence, I can repair the fence." I have been told by others that cutting long dead trees is called a widow maker.
Great video, I was make the angle on my wedge more like 45 degrees which explains the kick backs I was getting, from now on 70 degrees. Makes sense now that you explained it. One thing I would mention is to have an clear escape path. Meaning a clear run away angle with no brush or rocks to interfere with you getting the yeck away from a tree.
Absolutely fascinating! I've not seen anyone cut down trees since my dad did it over 55 years ago. Of course, we kids had to stay out of the way, so we never got to see anything very close at all, and Dad never told us anything about cutting down trees because he figured we'd never have/want to. Thank you so much for this. Now I'm off to see how to save my life by chainsawing like a boss.
I just bought some property in East Texas with quite a few trees, 5 of them dead and definitely in need of felling. Almost all very mature white oaks. I'm an old city guy, never cut down a tree in my life, rightly scared out of my mind but determined to learn. So really appreciate your taking the time to make videos like this to educate and help people do these dangerous tasks in a safe and effective manner. God bless you!
What a coincidence. I am watching this video to learn as my wife and I also have bought some property in East Texas covered in trees, and figured that I should learn how to cut a tree down. Good luck.
Dec 2019 I was cookie cutting 42" downed oak. Saw gap on bottom, where it wasn't "flat" on ground. Decided I'd chock the 20+ ft before proceeding, but after finishing my cut, (there was @ 6" heart uncut). The trunk broke free & rolled onto my L hand. Was pinned @ 20 minutes, talking to 911. No broken bones, deep burns into palm from the muffler, lost a fingertip, & still unable to safely use that hand to even hold a coffee mug. Have been watching various videos to re-educate. I used to know better, 30 yr ago, when I routinely was doing these things. Thanks for plainly & truly explaining things! (I also paused the warning, lol)
I like this guy. Makes a good impression and doesn't try to pretend he's an expert. good video for the beginner to learn a few things. The over-cut in the face is called a dutchman. I'll add that beginners should probably not be felling trees with lean or in tight spaces where there's a hazard to people or property. As far as safety gear, well that one's on you to decide how far you need to go.
Thank you! I've watched a LOT of felling videos and feel I have a decent working knowledge enabling me to work out on my deer property, but not enough to work around buildings (yet). I appreciate the detail you go into that really helps explain the WHY, especially with the plunge and cutting out the center of the hinge. Thanks again for the great resource!
First, you have a lovely property. Second, I review proper tree cutting techniques with this video every time I go out to thin my trees so I don't do something stupid. Not like I cut trees everyday. So I want to say thanks for an excellent video.
This helped me a whole lot. We cut down trees 2 times a year for a church mission. Most trees I cut down don't require a wedge. Every once in awhile one does. I now understand my mistakes 💯. This will help keep everyone on our team safe. Don't worry! I never over texted my experience, when I am in doubt. I get more experienced loggers. Oh yeah, nothing wrong with being humble and alive or uninjured. Thanks for your video
I was always scared to cut big trees. I appreciate the way you broke down the wedge, hinge, and back cut. Makes me more confident. I believe I'm cutting my back cut too low which increases my chance for kick back. I'll try it on some smaller trees and maybe tree it on a bigger tree when I build up more confidence. Ty sir
Excellent demonstration of the problem of the Undercut, where we make the horizontal cut of the wedge go deeper than the apex of the angle formed where the 2 cuts meet. Undercutting that meeting of the 2 cuts creates an instability in which the tree can fall just about anywhere. Nice video, with none of the obnoxious habit of shouting instructions of the sound of the chainsaw.
Been cutting all my life, im 59, and you taught me something. Love your non-arrogant attitude and ability to critique yourself. Keep up the good work, friend. Super great video.
Nice video. You already have quite a few tips from experienced loggers and that is good. You can pull the tree one way or another using more holding wood on the side you want the tree to fall and less or even little to no holding wood on the side you do not want the tree to fall. The "hinge" will be in the shape of a piece of pie when you are done. The tree you fell that you gave yourself a C+ was an A+ if you wanted to pull the tree toward the larger section of the holding wood. You do not always want the same amount holding wood on each side of the stump.
well done sir. i’ve been working as an arborist for about 6 years now and teaching and learning. you admit mistakes and purposely point them out. you understand danger levels. i love that you used a chainsaw on a stick to make your barber chair recreations. great video
Great advice! I watched this video yesterday, learned from it, and today took down an elm which was leaning prominently towards an ornamental tree which my wife adores. Following your directions I was able to make the tree fall 90 degrees from its natural leaning direction. Thanks again!!!
Over many years I’ve watched many videos on this topic. Without doubt yours is the best, not even close. From the starting three requirements you explain The good , the bad and the ugly . Thank you so much.
Cutting the middle of the hinge is a great solution to a stubborn "feller". I've always considered the hinge line as a "no-cut" line and it was a bit of a revelation, but your explanation showing the two sides keeping things stable made perfect sense.
This video has probably saved a few lives and property, and I thank you for the information. As a career Paramedic I have been on a few tree cutting injuries and one horrific fatality that involved a child that I will never be able to get out of my head. That being said, Please do not think that watching a UA-cam video will make ANYONE an instant expert on tree felling! If you need to cut a tree and you are not experienced, HIRE A PRO! If you can't hire a pro then at least go with a buddy into a safe area of woods (where you can legally cut) and practice, practice, practice on smaller trees, working your way up to bigger ones before tackling the one(s) you have to do! And PLEASE, do NOT allow young children to be anywhere near you when felling! I know they are curious and you want to "teach" them how to do the work, but kids should NEVER be allowed around a tree felling site!
I have felled a few trees. I understood the 'concept' but was never shown. I now realise how LUCKY I have been to not get injured. I have made EVERY mistake you point out here Great video. I have a big job coming up on our place road side. You may have saved my life! Big thanks
Do you have any idea that you probably saved lives by this awesome video? Yes you! Hats off and a big thank you. I have been doing many of the things you described, without me knowing why. And now I know I may have been doing some wrong and un-safely. Love the "cut the middle out" trick too!
Man, you are very articulate with your words. Very informative video. I like the fact that you showed what one should NOT do too. I learned a great deal about overcuts in the wedge too. I never realised as to why one should not overcut. I knew one should not do it but I never knew why. Your explanation was spot on with great examples.... I came here directly from your video on sharpening the chain.... Great advice there too.... Thank you....
Excellent video! I've been shown a hundred times but never grasped it until I saw this. I now understand how this works. Never really understood it before. Now I realize it's way more than just cutting a wedge in a tree and cutting it down. Have always tried cutting as safe as possible but I always cut on the ground. Never did much tree falling myself besides the little scrub tree.
"I've chosen a tree that's not very big, because I'm not a dumb ass!" LMAO! That alone was worth watching this video. Not killing myself cutting trees, is also a plus. Many thanks!
4 minutes later: "So I've chosen some bigger trees, these are some dead Ash trees out in my field. I'm going to try to make these barber chair. Yea I guess maybe I am a dumbass." ua-cam.com/video/XxfHpSfIKRs/v-deo.html
The advice is excellent and totally correct. I knew it would come down exactly as the professional described because I followed his instructions exactly. And it did come down exactly as described with just a strong push from the opposite site toward the direction it was supposed to fall. I used magic marker to make sure my cuts were flat, made sure I only left a one inch board, and my upper cut was 1/4 inch higher than my low cut. Thanks for this video.
The best 101 by far! This showed up as a suggested video. Good thing - before I hurt myself. I watched hours of other felling videos yet knew nothing until you came into my life.
I’m a single mom who has to take care of yard business on her own. Thank you for explaining everything step by step! I learned a lot and now I feel ready to clear my two trees!! God Bless!!! 👍🏼
I watched this and felled my first ever tree. I felt like a kid again as it started cracking. It landed exactly where I wanted it to. Thank you so much for the video
Absolutely fascinating. Every skill has its own catalogue of techniques and knowledge to it that, when you have no contact with the skill, are hidden to you. I had no idea that there was such thought and appreciation of physics and engineering principles in cutting down a tree!
My dad grew up on a farm and had to cut firewood for winter heat throughout his childhood. However, his way of teaching is, "just do it like this" but he doesn't explain things very well. Don't get me wrong, GREAT guy, but I understand so much more after 22 minutes of video than I've gathered over the past 55 years! Last year, I had to do a dangerous cut and fall, so I just went to the source. I learned a lot that day, but there's something about one-and-done learning, it's easy to forget! The biggest thing I learned was if the tree is leaning the wrong way far enough, there's nothing wrong with getting a tractor with a raised bucket to create additional bracing. It took the tractor for bracing, a person on the tractor to push the tree while working 3 wedges, and a security cable to fall that tree the proper direction, but we got it done!
That was an awesome explanation of lots of the small details that might be overlooked. I never really thought about the physics of a falling tree before even though I’ve cut down a couple trees. Before, I knew what to do. Now, I understand why to do it.
I like how detailed this tutorial was. Ive seen to many of these how to videos on tree cutting. That just dont show enough detail for someone to know how to correctly cut down a tree. Good job.
Good statement "I've chosen a tree that's not very big" is a good idea for illustration of how/why not to do things wrong. Very good visual demo of WHY things should be done correctly. Thank you
This was very educational, here in germany we have to have a license to fell trees. The instructor of my class explained technically the same you did, but he made it not so pictureclear why you should do so. Your video may save some beginners from getting hurt... 👍🏻
License? Really? Here in finland you are free to fell trees on your own land. No questions asked. Unless it's a large area in which case you are required to plant saplings for the forest to grow back. Or it's right next to a powerline in which case the power company will perform for the felling. Within a year i've fell 4-5 trees from my property due age and blocking the sunlight. And there are plenty left but i'm gonna leave them be for now. One troubling tree is situated so that i'm gonna ask my uncle who is a genuine lumberjack to come and handle it, there is road on the otherside and my house and shed on the otherside. There is like 10m gap where it *must* fall or someone is going to be unhappy (me).
@@alaric_ you only need a license when you fell trees on public land, for commercial felling or on properties wich arent yours. These licenses usually consist of a Weekend course wich teaches the basics of felling and cost less then 100€. This is also required when you are a forest owner or part of a volunteer fire department/THW.
well we too have way too many 'licenses' and overreaching greedy governmental dictators; EU has been mostly a solid socialist nation for 100 years plus, that is why my grandparents and parents left; sadly the USA has turned socialistic too; on the farm we do as we please and drop trees on those that trespass!!! thanks for a great video; all the very best in safety health and prosperity; enjoy your thanksgivings for many years to come
@@alaric_ in Germany there is a first Chainsaw-License for cutting trees up to 20 cm thick (8 in) and costs € 200, if you want to cut thicker trees there is the second License that costs up to € 500, if you have an accident cutting trees without a Chainsaw License and proper safety gear then good luck with the Health Insurance! and yes... we even have to have a License to go fishing here... no safety gear for that though.
Thank you for this. I've been cutting down small trees around a property for years but as the projects have gotten more ambitious it was time I had better idea how I should go about them. This video provided just the insights required.
Thanks I’ve had to cut a few big trees in my time and was always concerned re direction of fall, trees in excess of 12m . I had never realised the importance of the hinge, and it’s now pretty obvious!
True enough on the no nonsense comment. Very good explanation of the wedge, hinge and back cut technic. Tree cutting is a very rewarding exercise when you are able to look at a standing tree and understand its dynamics on the stump. I enjoyed you cutting the dead ash tress because I'm about to tackle a half dozen or so standing dead ones here at my place that are about to become dangerous from top decaying branches. Every species is different and dead trees are by far the most unpredictable and dangerous to fell. I want to give you credit for your logic, skill with the saw and clear concise explanation of what it takes to get a tree down. You taking the time to make this video will keep a lot of people safe. Thank you.
i was trained to always cut your escape route before falling any tree , that way if you have to run you dont trip or get tangled up in any brush . Also i always wore chaps , designed to entangle the chain if you ever get a kick back .
I bought some chaps recently but keep forgetting to take them with me when I head to our property to work on tree-felling. Then my dad told me a story about my uncle bucking a tree when they were younger. The chain got bound up and jumped off the bar, flipped back and caught on the zipper of his jeans and literally unzipped his pants. From that point on, he wore chaps. I think I will from now on too. :-)
We used to call that wedge a Scarf when I was felling trees, often we would cut deeper scarfs and came at it from a higher point on the other side. You are so right that the hinge is critical ...
Watched your excellent video and followed your advice and took down a very large dying pecan tree with no issues and perfect placement. Thanks for posting your video...much appreciated!!!
The best tutorial on timbering ever! My father in law does this for money and I assisted many times. He never bothered to explain in detail why and how he cuts down a tree to fall so precisely. Now I know :-)
Excellent video that explains clearly the theory behind safe felling technique. I'd like to have seen more use of wedges as I think this is an important technique that novices don't grasp. Also as a retired medical practitioner who has dealt with trauma from sharpened steel, I'd always recommend the wearing of Class 1 chainsaw trousers and steel toecaps whenever you use a chainsaw, no matter what the weather. Stay safe. 👍
Thanks for the detail explanations on the cuts. The other videos are very basic. "This cut, that cut there she blows". You probably saved lives with this video.
Not sure why this video popped up in my recommendation queue since I watch primarily guitar videos but I'm glad it did. Very well done, really comprehensive (to me) and I'll be using the info to fell some trees on my land. Thanks!
Excellent video, with a lot of vital information. I bought 50 Acres of land recently, and I plan to start clearing a path for a driveway soon. It's mostly smaller trees about 8-12 inches in diameter with the odd larger one here and there, but I still feel much safer having done some research first and glad I found your channel. I plan on putting these methods to use by practicing on some smaller trees first. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Absolute MUST WATCH for all noobs! Thanks a lot for this crystal clear demonstration. I'm really happy I did not attempt any of my bigger trees before watching this.
Some really good stuff here and some great deliberate mistakes! I was also impressed with you trying to force a barber chair, but using the long reach to do it, to keep yourself away. I'm still a fan of chainsaw trousers ;) ! Have you ever looked into either a split level cut or my personal favourite a safe corner cut for trees where there's a danger of it sitting back and trapping your saw? Bore/plunge through, retreat out a quarter to a third of the diameter, then punch out the back of the tree. You'll be left with an uncut corner at the back, but that tree won't go anywhere. Smack your wedge in and then take out the corner. No chance of your saw getting caught and the tree falls only when you're ready to make it. A great safe cut worth having in your armoury. The split level's harder and is designed for trees you want to take against a lean and is ideally done with a felling bar Nice work all the same!
Thank you so much for this video! I'm going to be cutting some larger trees down in the near future. I have cut a few maybe 5 little ones in my life and it was freaky. going to be watching more videos before I attempt any larger trees but this was an awesome introduction! Very thorough and educational which is exactly what I needed!
I was cutting a large Oak branch while standing on a ladder. Half way through the cut and the branch snaps. It swings down and knocks the ladder right out from underneath me … I tossed the chainsaw on the way down and landed on top of the ladder- that was it for the day.
Excellent detailed explanation on the all the parts needed for a safe cut. Actually got nervous along with you on that shed tree, but you handled it like a pro. Thanks for taking the time to do/post this.
Start from the 'top' of the tree and the ends of the branches and work your way down. Avoid cutting any branches with a lot of weight on them. Always cut from the uphill side when cutting the main trunk - otherwise it might roll onto you. I never cut a branch where the upper side is under compression - the tree can move unpredictably.
I had a terrible accident with a tree that was down. The stresses on the trunk over uneven ground and branches pulling on the body are enormous. I found out the hard way, after 40 years of cutting trees. I guess maybe time had dampened my fear and judgement a bit. Five shattered ribs and 2 nights in ICU gave me a renewed respect for how torque works! Trees are dangerous, whether they are standing straight, leaning or lying on the ground.
@@elricofarmer1561 "The stresses on the trunk over uneven ground and branches pulling on the body are enormous." So very very true - one of the most overlooked potential hazards when a tree is grounded. Hope you healed well!
You’re so good, even trying to do it wrong was hard. Awesome video, I came expecting to watch the first 3mins, stayed for the whole thing. Rock on brother 🤘🏽🤘🏽
Before felling a large tree for a new chainsaw virgin, i watched an evenings youtube. Your couple of main guides taught me so much in the prep, main drop and best practice on the ground. Absolutely brilliant wanted to return and say thanks I learned so many skills ❤
Great video - thank you. I learned a huge amount here. I cringe when I think about the trees I’ve taken down with no understanding of the hinge concept. At least I knew enough that I wasn’t comfortable tackling anything bigger than about 18” across and so stayed away from the bigger stuff.
Interesting video and well done on explaining the general principles ... One suggestion though, when cutting the wedge (we call them 'birds mouth' in the UK), you are cutting them between a third and half way through the trunk ... It would be better for a controlled fall if you only cut one quarter of the way in. This leaves a much wider back (or felling) cut, giving you more room for wedges (especially 'high lift' wedges) whilst still being able to get the saw in to thin the hinge. I would initially aim to make the hinge thickness about one eighth of the overall diameter and would if needed plunge cut the middle of the hinge out from the front of the birds mouth prior to making the felling cut ... Eg. in a 16" dia base, the hinge(s) would have a section of about 2" x 5" on each side with the plunge cut at the bottom centre of the birds mouth, well below the felling cut ... This technique becomes even more critical if the tree is diseased and the heart wood rotten Once again, well done and thank you 🌳😎
@@jakester455 He is saying after you cut the wedge(Birds Mouth) plunge cut the center of it. After that make your back cut. As opposed to plunge cutting from the back cut to the center , after you find out the hinge isn't letting the tree fall...The question that arises from the explanation is how you know to do that before the back cut.
I’ve had to cut some dead trees around a home my wife and I built at different times ! Dead trees mostly with no expertise just winging it . Lucky I didn’t get seriously hurt ,electricians and tree work dosent go hand and hand . I will have to say I do see the logic in your explanations of dos and donts You tube is great the internet world and goggle has probably saved a lot of lives ! Thanks for the video 👏👏
Thoroughly liked this video. Thank you for doing it. I've been off this week trying to fell my first trees ever and making a lot of mistakes even after watching other videos. Was so glad to find yours. You emphasized the important stuff without scaring the sh!+ out of me which I'm struggling enough with
It is nice to see that he uses a Stihl chainsaw, which I believe is the best and most reliable saw around. Also very good advice given in this video. One thing I would add and that is in windy conditions felling tall heavy trees I would use extreme caution and better to wait for less windy conditions.
Yes, avoid windy days at all costs! Also avoid heavy drinking the night before or the morning of the planned felling. I had a crew of guys with chainsaws and trucks show up in front of my house one morning. I was working in my garage and didn't think much of it, as plenty of neighbors had trees that needed trimmed. I waved, and they waved back, but continued talking among themselves. Well, after about 15 minutes I heard the saws fire up, and they sounded eerily close to my prized maple in my front yard, which looks exactly like the Keebler Elf Tree, which I had already paid good money to have trimmed the year before. I walked outside and to my astonishment one the guys was getting ready to make a face cut at the base of my tree! I screamed "Hey jackass! What the F^&* DO YOU THINK YOU'RE DOING??!!" They all looked at me real confused like, about 6 of them, early to late 20's. The guy bent over getting ready to cut says, "Are you Brandon?" Me: "No I'm not Brandon, there's a Brandon that lives a few houses down the street!" The guys were apologetic enough, but I could smell the bar on their breath and clothes from the night, or just a few hours before. I watched them as they drove their trucks exactly 3 houses down, based on my loose description, they didn't knock on his door to make sure it was the right house, or the right tree, and they commenced to cutting down one of his big beautiful maples which took a total of about 5 minutes to bring down. I didn't really know the guy, so never asked if they actually cut the right tree down or not. I felt like I'd dodged a huge bullet though, just for the fact that I was working from home and caught them before disaster occurred. Had they felled my prize tree, it would have killed my home's curb appeal, and likely cost more than 50k in property value. The thought of them haphazardly cutting the wrong tree, really kind of made me sick to my stomach. 🤢
@@larrymiller5171 I think it depends on how you define "better". When it comes to emission control and fuel management Stihl is better. When it comes to warranty Echo is better. When it comes to light weight Echo is better, but most professionals do want some weight to their chainsaw. When it comes to experience Stihl has the edge. I find the maintenance and taking apart a chainsaw for cleaning that Stihl is better. If you ever have to replace parts Stihl parts are way cheaper. Stihl is a German company whereas Echo is Japanese. And I am not saying that Echo chainsaws are bad, but like the Husqvarna's I prefer Stihl.
Absolutely the best instructional video I have viewed on UA-cam. I am Planning to cut down two trees (medium size trees) in my backyard. Thank you for posting. This helps me a lot. I am gathering my safety hats, wedges etc. Thank you again.
This is really well explained, and somehow you have dodged the mountain of jackass comments seen on most felling videos. I like the way you clearly think through the forces involved. Regarding control lines, I try to keep my control line at right angles to the intended fall, so as the tree comes down, the line maintains the same tension and control all the way down.
I am a Joe Blow home owner who has had to cut trees down in the past. I have always had the basic concept of how to do it but never understood the reasons for some of the steps. Thanks to you, I now have a much better understanding and can be a lot safer on my next drop. Thank you for taking the time to educate all of us.
I'm in the same boat as you.. Always knew I didn't know enough, so always played super conservative.. A little greater depth of knowledge is definitely a good thing!
See my posts above. Coming down to meet the wedge is all advantage and helps the overall geometry. Other advantages include less chance of trapping your blade
Same here. I have 3 acres, and trees and I need to take two down in the next few days. This video is a great help.
Same. I've only cut smaller trees - maybe a foot to two feet in diameter - and I had a basic understanding of the wedge cut method, but not the full comprehension of WHY. The worst I've encountered is my blade getting pinched in the tree, and now I know that was because my wedge cut wasn't done properly. I've also had issues with my back cut being too high, which resulted in my having to cut almost all of the way through the tree before my wedge let it fall where I wanted.
@@QuantumRift Did you take down your trees?
Hey brother, good video! As a Professional Journeyman Trimmer Treeman class AA Teir 3, I always watch these videos seeing if the people on here are actually passing on quality knowledge!
You're right on with your proportions of the notch, hinge, and back cut!
Just a tip that I learned about 5 years into doing tree work from a competition climber that was job shadowing a safety guy over our area of the company, is:
When notching MAKE THE TOP CUT FIRST! I know this seems very counter intuitive, but by doing this, you set your depth of the the cut and direction of the notch just as if you were doing the lower cut, so same as always.
BUT having that top cut in first, allows you ty have a line of sight through the curf of the top cut, so you can see exactly where your bar is in relation to where you need to make your Apex meet up... I tried this on the very next felling operation I did and it was CRAFT CHANGING in its ease of execution. You will begin getting a perfect Apex with no bypass on either corner, on your first attempt, every operation.
Please give it a try and holla back if you want but I don't think You'll regret it brother!
@@DancingToronto he was talking about the notch cut, the top part of wedge cut first, then the lower flat cut. (way I understood him anyways)
If getting an exact direction of fall is important, I think it would be easier to do the horizontal front cut first.
What about the Humboldt cut ? There are many’s cuts to be made. He did just dandy. The shorts was the biggest problem I saw
i’ve been climbing for 44 years and i’ve been doing the top cut first for 39 of them , it comes natural after you do so many of them
I've dropped at least 100 over the years on my property with only knowing the basics. Thank you so much for this video and a definitive guide for the future. Takes some of the anxiety out of dropping the big ones for me.
This is one of the most thorough and non-time-waste-y videos I've ever seen.
He should get off his dead ash.
Nice to see you are open to showing mistakes. So many are afraid to admit small mistakes but that's how you become great and do things safely. Thanks for the video, taught me some good tips.
😊
Explaining not just what to do, but what happens if you DON'T do it right. Excellent. Thank you. As mentioned by others, always plan and clear your exit path. "How many ways can this go wrong?"
Thank you for this video. I am 59 y.o. and have 6 acres of heavily forested land that I manage alone. I am always concerned when taking trees down. I had one really near some electrical lines, my well and a carport to take down today. I was really nervous about this going wrong. I never really appreciated the need to spend time on the initial wedge/birds mouth cut. You really explained it so I understand why it's important and it's relation to the dreaded barber chair. The other points were taking out the middle of the hinge and cutting a line to follow for the back cut to keep it straight which I had never known about before. Just want to say of all the videos I have watched, this is the most helpful and have watched it several times.
I'm a 55 y o woman and recently bought a homestead dense with old and young trees (and a chainsaw). Just wanted to say hi as I was so glad to see another like me :)
After watching this video I was able to cut my first tree down. It was a rather large pine tree, and it couldn't have gone any better!! My wedge, back cut, and hinge were flawless and fell EXACTLY where I wanted. I wish I could show you some pictures, all the credit goes to you! Thanks for the great lesson!
Me too, I cut down my first yesterday. It was perfect. Excellent video.
As a beginner, remember that if you hold your arm at a 45 degree angle and find the point along the ground that your fingers point at the top.. that's how far it will lay on the ground.
Always have wedges in your pocket, not "close" but in your pocket.. and 1 more than you think you need... With axe or hammer to knock them in.
Happy cutting. Keep watching tutorials.
If you start using ropes.. always tension the stretch of the rope too.. or the rope will be useless.
For extra security look at a tree jack if you think you might hit a building.
Same here, felt so good. Nice firewood might just drop trees and sell firewood as a side job lol
Respect
As a climbing Arborist for over twenty years I can tell you that you explained this almost exactly as I would have. Many people underestimate the negative impact of over cuts.. surfaces that bind are always to be avoided.
I have felled a fair number of trees, built engines, cabinets, etc and yet, I watch others with instructional videos here that _always_ manage to teach me something new. This was a very good video and I came away from it a bit more knowledgeable. Thanks FarmCraft101!
I deal with hazard trees around campgrounds and buildings and I'd say that you have a pretty good understanding of how its done. When er aren't using the plunge cut method, we strive for a hinge that is two or three inches, maybe a bit more for large diameter trees. Using wedges is good; they prevent the tree from sitting back and binding your saw, and can be used to coax the tree to go over in the right direction. When its possible, I usually stick the tip of a wedge into the kerf as I nibble away at the middle of the hinge. This allows me to watch the wedge for movement. If it goes up, the tree is sitting back; if it goes down or falls out, the tree is going in the right direction. Sometimes I need to stack my wedges and pound them both in a little at a time. This doubles the thickness of my wedges and usually convinces a stubborn tree to play team ball. When making your front cut, it can help to us a "Humboldt" cut where the angled portion of the wedge is on the bottom. This allows the trunk of the tree to slide in front of the stump and hit the ground first, preventing checks and damage to wood you want to salvage. I like it because I know that there is a better chance that the trunk is going to move away from the stump in the direction the tree is falling, and not back towards me or my escape routes.
Some other folks have mentioned it but chaps are absolutely essential, along with all of your other PPE. Stay safe and thanks for the cool content!
You are not an expert. You are the theacher of the experts. You saved several
lives , deserves a life saver diplom.
Agreed. I always use them now. I have cut many trees here in Hawaii and I had an incident where I was finishing a job I had been working on for days. I was cutting small trees on the side of a hill and it started raining but I wanted to finish. I slipped and the blade hit my left thigh. It cut through my 3 layered jeans, shorts, and boxers and bounced off. had only a small cut but had a heart-stopping moment of gratefulness and knowing I got lucky. I never use a chainsaw without my chaps now
Weakening the hinge with your center cuts is brilliant. It weakens the hinge exactly where strength is no longer needed and retains hinge strength in that line which runs perpendicular to the intended fall line.
Great insight. Never would have thought of that until you called it out. Thanks!
I just came here to thank you. I built a house in 2020 and left some large trees near the house. Well those large trees ended up dying and the limbs were getting dangerous.
Two of those trees were around 60-70 feet tall and were only anout 20 feet from my house. I did a lot of research about how to cut them down safely. After this video I really felt like I had a good enderstaning of not just "how" but the "why" also.
Cut six trees down today using my truck and a very long 1/2" wire rope attached my my truck as a safety. Your instructions were spot on and every tree fell exactly where I wanted it to go.
Thanks for the great video.
To say this creation was well-thought out is an absolute understatement. My appreciation for this information is ad infinitum. I'm 33, a little nervous about cutting larger trees, and am most grateful I 1. UA-camd it and 2. was guided to watch THIS video specifically.
Wow!! I just turned 70 and this video brought back memories of pulp wooding in high school. The guy I worked with also trimmed residential trees and was an absolute wizard at setting up ropes to keep branches off of houses and making them go where he wanted them to go. Great video.🌲🌳😁
Thank you, I am a strong, confident, patient and smart woman. First time tackling a 25 ft. 20 year old tree. Your video was valuable to my success. I made sure that I knew exactly how you demonstrated to do it, took my time making my manual cuts and I am so happy. Probably just saved $500 and get the satisfaction of success.🎉
Really well done - the purposeful errors combined with pauses, arrows, text, etc, are incredibly useful - thank you.
Sure is, we learn from our failure more than we do our success
yeah I enjoyed this was trying to release my trapped saw its great to have a second saw to do it quickly ua-cam.com/video/roD3d3NRsC0/v-deo.html
Very well explained.¡Gracias por compartir!
If only other toobers planned and explained like you did because you did this very very well. Greatly appreciated that was awesome. Thank you.
Learn a running bowline to use when pulling trees. It's far safer than a plain slipknot. I work in the tree business and it's an everyday knot for us. Also a timber hitch is useful in your situation. Great video tho. Also we call the wedge cut a notch.
Nice video on cutting techniques. I have felled a lot of trees and taught young people as well but as a former EMT my one main complaint is no chainsaw safety chaps. I've had to treat too many homeowners and so-called pros who cut their legs when they were jumping back from a falling tree and the saw swung down and caught their legs when they were yanking it out of the cut, particularly if it was jamming. Safer to leave it there and get out of the way. A new bar and chain are cheap enough. You should also teach the "escape path" and clearing any hazards on that path. You were trying to jump over some brush in the video. Not smart. Chainsaws are deadly so stress safety first.
Yes, thank you @bill lewis for pointing out the lack of chaps and exit route, otherwise good instructions but please think safety first
Good points.
Yaaaaas, escape paths are absolutely necessary. For trees you can predict and that aren't prone to barber chairing, it may not seem like as big a deal, but getting in the habit is such a good thing. In general, though, someone who doesn't know what they're doing probably shouldn't try knocking down a tree thicker than a foot. Got a monster 20-24" oak in my own backyard that I refuse to touch myself (because of its lean and damage, tho, it probably should come down; it's right up against a fence and leaning with some rot near the base). The biggest problem with regular people cutting trees isn't their lack of experience; it's the false sense of security and 'how hard can it be' mentality.
I would almost go as far as stating that chaps are even more important if you've been at it for some years and got lots of experience. Inexperienced users tend to always act as if the saw will cut their legs of and are therefore very careful. But as a rule: ALWAYS wear chaps, no mather your skill level. Stay safe!
Right after I make a fell cut and the tree starts to move if I want to exit I gently drop my chainsaw and then run. I never run with the saw.
The irony is that you are using a Stihl. I just watched a video from Stihl on how to cut down a tree and your guide was WAY more informative. TY.
Dude you're an awesome teacher! I wish every UA-cam video was this good.
I've seen many videos of how to cut a tree in the past, but this is the first video that clearly explains and demonstrates the "science" behind it. I certainly added this to my faves list as I'm likely to revisit this sometime in the future to make sure I didn't forget anything. Thank you for your great work!
Love this guy. No nonsense, no fluff, but real and sensible information explained at every point in easy to understand terms, His mistakes whether on purpose or not are actually even more informative to show what can go wrong and that he's as human as the rest of us. Excellent
@FarmCraft101, this is an outstanding video of how to fell trees the correct way. Using clear and concise directions and descriptions, you showed the right way to go about it, but you did something helpful that I have not seen other content creators do.
And that was this: You actually took the time to also explain and demonstrate the INCORRECT ways to fell a tree, showing exactly what happens when it's done wrong.
Personally, for me, seeing the wrong methods to fell trees and learning why they're wrong was equally as beneficial as learning the correct way.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You gained a subscriber.
This is hands down the best tree cutting video I have ever watched. Thanks for such a great explanation. Now I know why all the things that have gone wrong (like the kick back from to low of a back cut and many others). Based on watching this and past experience you have taken the concern I have had about dropping a tree near my well head. Now I know I am good to go. Thanks again.
Agreed
Yep that covered it as well as you could.
+1 on this comment. Fantastic video that even I understand.
Did you end up felling that tree safely near your well head?
exactly...his back cut, especially on that 2nd ash was even angled down from the first cut of the pie...with a heavy tree it's in danger of falling in the opposite direction that you intend..very dangerous
Average property owner here. I've watched thousands of arborist videos, found this to be top notch!!! Thanks.
pun intended?
Thank you so much for this video! I am a country boy falling trees with daddy since I was a kid. Doing it the way we saw others do, without really understanding why you do it that way. Every year someone gets killed, in the local area. Now I understand I was doing it wrong. You may have saved a life!
I'm a professional arberist very well explained of what too do and don't do. Keep educating the DIY person. Stay safe. If needed call a professional to help.
i was taught to make my back cut at about a 45˚ angle downward to hinge. Curious if you think there's anything dangerous about that method? thanks.
Great video. I did not realize it was important to do the wedge cut accurately. And if it doesn't turn out accurate, then make it so before doing the back cut. Two years ago, my neighbor wanted me to cut down a dead tree because it was right next to a fence. If it fell the wrong way, it would take out the fence. I started in and soon enough a small branch fell off and hit me in the face. I felt very fortunate that it only hurt a little, could have been a lot worse. I said, "ok, I am done. If it falls on the fence, I can repair the fence." I have been told by others that cutting long dead trees is called a widow maker.
Great video, I was make the angle on my wedge more like 45 degrees which explains the kick backs I was getting, from now on 70 degrees. Makes sense now that you explained it. One thing I would mention is to have an clear escape path. Meaning a clear run away angle with no brush or rocks to interfere with you getting the yeck away from a tree.
Absolutely fascinating! I've not seen anyone cut down trees since my dad did it over 55 years ago. Of course, we kids had to stay out of the way, so we never got to see anything very close at all, and Dad never told us anything about cutting down trees because he figured we'd never have/want to. Thank you so much for this. Now I'm off to see how to save my life by chainsawing like a boss.
I just bought some property in East Texas with quite a few trees, 5 of them dead and definitely in need of felling. Almost all very mature white oaks. I'm an old city guy, never cut down a tree in my life, rightly scared out of my mind but determined to learn. So really appreciate your taking the time to make videos like this to educate and help people do these dangerous tasks in a safe and effective manner. God bless you!
What a coincidence. I am watching this video to learn as my wife and I also have bought some property in East Texas covered in trees, and figured that I should learn how to cut a tree down. Good luck.
Old city guy, just hire someone. Really. That is the only safe way to cut down a tree. Maybe try rodeo?
@@gregridgeway8790
Lol
Dec 2019 I was cookie cutting 42" downed oak. Saw gap on bottom, where it wasn't "flat" on ground. Decided I'd chock the 20+ ft before proceeding, but after finishing my cut, (there was @ 6" heart uncut). The trunk broke free & rolled onto my L hand. Was pinned @ 20 minutes, talking to 911. No broken bones, deep burns into palm from the muffler, lost a fingertip, & still unable to safely use that hand to even hold a coffee mug. Have been watching various videos to re-educate. I used to know better, 30 yr ago, when I routinely was doing these things. Thanks for plainly & truly explaining things! (I also paused the warning, lol)
I like this guy. Makes a good impression and doesn't try to pretend he's an expert. good video for the beginner to learn a few things. The over-cut in the face is called a dutchman. I'll add that beginners should probably not be felling trees with lean or in tight spaces where there's a hazard to people or property. As far as safety gear, well that one's on you to decide how far you need to go.
It's great how you intentionally show what not to do. That really helps illustrate how to do it right.
I like the way the way you made the tree hop back up on the stump. Seriously, this is a great tutorial! One of the best I've seen on UA-cam.
Thank you! I've watched a LOT of felling videos and feel I have a decent working knowledge enabling me to work out on my deer property, but not enough to work around buildings (yet). I appreciate the detail you go into that really helps explain the WHY, especially with the plunge and cutting out the center of the hinge. Thanks again for the great resource!
First, you have a lovely property. Second, I review proper tree cutting techniques with this video every time I go out to thin my trees so I don't do something stupid. Not like I cut trees everyday. So I want to say thanks for an excellent video.
By far the most clear explanation
Of the main cuts, their sequence
And the expected results.
Thanks bro. Gonna save some
Folks real grief and injury.
i have been in the tree removal business for over 30 years and i must say; you are saving lives my friend... excellent work
This helped me a whole lot. We cut down trees 2 times a year for a church mission. Most trees I cut down don't require a wedge. Every once in awhile one does. I now understand my mistakes 💯. This will help keep everyone on our team safe. Don't worry! I never over texted my experience, when I am in doubt. I get more experienced loggers. Oh yeah, nothing wrong with being humble and alive or uninjured.
Thanks for your video
I was always scared to cut big trees. I appreciate the way you broke down the wedge, hinge, and back cut. Makes me more confident. I believe I'm cutting my back cut too low which increases my chance for kick back. I'll try it on some smaller trees and maybe tree it on a bigger tree when I build up more confidence. Ty sir
Excellent demonstration of the problem of the Undercut, where we make the horizontal cut of the wedge go deeper than the apex of the angle formed where the 2 cuts meet. Undercutting that meeting of the 2 cuts creates an instability in which the tree can fall just about anywhere. Nice video, with none of the obnoxious habit of shouting instructions of the sound of the chainsaw.
Been cutting all my life, im 59, and you taught me something. Love your non-arrogant attitude and ability to critique yourself. Keep up the good work, friend. Super great video.
Nice video. You already have quite a few tips from experienced loggers and that is good. You can pull the tree one way or another using more holding wood on the side you want the tree to fall and less or even little to no holding wood on the side you do not want the tree to fall. The "hinge" will be in the shape of a piece of pie when you are done. The tree you fell that you gave yourself a C+ was an A+ if you wanted to pull the tree toward the larger section of the holding wood. You do not always want the same amount holding wood on each side of the stump.
well done sir. i’ve been working as an arborist for about 6 years now and teaching and learning. you admit mistakes and purposely point them out. you understand danger levels. i love that you used a chainsaw on a stick to make your barber chair recreations. great video
Great advice! I watched this video yesterday, learned from it, and today took down an elm which was leaning prominently towards an ornamental tree which my wife adores. Following your directions I was able to make the tree fall 90 degrees from its natural leaning direction. Thanks again!!!
Over many years I’ve watched many videos on this topic. Without doubt yours is the best, not even close. From the starting three requirements you explain
The good , the bad and the ugly . Thank you so much.
Cutting the middle of the hinge is a great solution to a stubborn "feller". I've always considered the hinge line as a "no-cut" line and it was a bit of a revelation, but your explanation showing the two sides keeping things stable made perfect sense.
This video has probably saved a few lives and property, and I thank you for the information. As a career Paramedic I have been on a few tree cutting injuries and one horrific fatality that involved a child that I will never be able to get out of my head. That being said, Please do not think that watching a UA-cam video will make ANYONE an instant expert on tree felling! If you need to cut a tree and you are not experienced, HIRE A PRO! If you can't hire a pro then at least go with a buddy into a safe area of woods (where you can legally cut) and practice, practice, practice on smaller trees, working your way up to bigger ones before tackling the one(s) you have to do! And PLEASE, do NOT allow young children to be anywhere near you when felling! I know they are curious and you want to "teach" them how to do the work, but kids should NEVER be allowed around a tree felling site!
I have felled a few trees. I understood the 'concept' but was never shown. I now realise how LUCKY I have been to not get injured. I have made EVERY mistake you point out here
Great video. I have a big job coming up on our place road side. You may have saved my life! Big thanks
Me and you both lol, my dumb cuts have all been done with an Axe so there is a lot more control
Do you have any idea that you probably saved lives by this awesome video? Yes you! Hats off and a big thank you. I have been doing many of the things you described, without me knowing why. And now I know I may have been doing some wrong and un-safely. Love the "cut the middle out" trick too!
Man, you are very articulate with your words. Very informative video. I like the fact that you showed what one should NOT do too. I learned a great deal about overcuts in the wedge too. I never realised as to why one should not overcut. I knew one should not do it but I never knew why. Your explanation was spot on with great examples.... I came here directly from your video on sharpening the chain.... Great advice there too.... Thank you....
Excellent video! I've been shown a hundred times but never grasped it until I saw this. I now understand how this works. Never really understood it before. Now I realize it's way more than just cutting a wedge in a tree and cutting it down. Have always tried cutting as safe as possible but I always cut on the ground. Never did much tree falling myself besides the little scrub tree.
"I've chosen a tree that's not very big, because I'm not a dumb ass!" LMAO!
That alone was worth watching this video. Not killing myself cutting trees, is also a plus. Many thanks!
4 minutes later: "So I've chosen some bigger trees, these are some dead Ash trees out in my field. I'm going to try to make these barber chair. Yea I guess maybe I am a dumbass."
ua-cam.com/video/XxfHpSfIKRs/v-deo.html
The advice is excellent and totally correct. I knew it would come down exactly as the professional described because I followed his instructions exactly. And it did come down exactly as described with just a strong push from the opposite site toward the direction it was supposed to fall. I used magic marker to make sure my cuts were flat, made sure I only left a one inch board, and my upper cut was 1/4 inch higher than my low cut. Thanks for this video.
The best 101 by far! This showed up as a suggested video. Good thing - before I hurt myself. I watched hours of other felling videos yet knew nothing until you came into my life.
I’m a single mom who has to take care of yard business on her own. Thank you for explaining everything step by step! I learned a lot and now I feel ready to clear my two trees!! God Bless!!! 👍🏼
Hope it goes/went well!
I watched this and felled my first ever tree. I felt like a kid again as it started cracking. It landed exactly where I wanted it to. Thank you so much for the video
Best video I've seen on the actual reasons for doing what we're told to do when cutting down trees.
Agreed great video
@@timthompson7199 inn, jn
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Absolutely fascinating. Every skill has its own catalogue of techniques and knowledge to it that, when you have no contact with the skill, are hidden to you. I had no idea that there was such thought and appreciation of physics and engineering principles in cutting down a tree!
My dad grew up on a farm and had to cut firewood for winter heat throughout his childhood. However, his way of teaching is, "just do it like this" but he doesn't explain things very well. Don't get me wrong, GREAT guy, but I understand so much more after 22 minutes of video than I've gathered over the past 55 years!
Last year, I had to do a dangerous cut and fall, so I just went to the source. I learned a lot that day, but there's something about one-and-done learning, it's easy to forget! The biggest thing I learned was if the tree is leaning the wrong way far enough, there's nothing wrong with getting a tractor with a raised bucket to create additional bracing. It took the tractor for bracing, a person on the tractor to push the tree while working 3 wedges, and a security cable to fall that tree the proper direction, but we got it done!
That was an awesome explanation of lots of the small details that might be overlooked. I never really thought about the physics of a falling tree before even though I’ve cut down a couple trees.
Before, I knew what to do. Now, I understand why to do it.
I like how detailed this tutorial was. Ive seen to many of these how to videos on tree cutting. That just dont show enough detail for someone to know how to correctly cut down a tree. Good job.
Good statement "I've chosen a tree that's not very big" is a good idea for illustration of how/why not to do things wrong. Very good visual demo of WHY things should be done correctly. Thank you
This was very educational, here in germany we have to have a license to fell trees.
The instructor of my class explained technically the same you did, but he made it not so pictureclear why you should do so.
Your video may save some beginners from getting hurt... 👍🏻
License? Really? Here in finland you are free to fell trees on your own land. No questions asked. Unless it's a large area in which case you are required to plant saplings for the forest to grow back. Or it's right next to a powerline in which case the power company will perform for the felling.
Within a year i've fell 4-5 trees from my property due age and blocking the sunlight. And there are plenty left but i'm gonna leave them be for now. One troubling tree is situated so that i'm gonna ask my uncle who is a genuine lumberjack to come and handle it, there is road on the otherside and my house and shed on the otherside. There is like 10m gap where it *must* fall or someone is going to be unhappy (me).
@@alaric_ you only need a license when you fell trees on public land, for commercial felling or on properties wich arent yours. These licenses usually consist of a Weekend course wich teaches the basics of felling and cost less then 100€. This is also required when you are a forest owner or part of a volunteer fire department/THW.
well we too have way too many 'licenses' and overreaching greedy governmental dictators; EU has been mostly a solid socialist nation for 100 years plus, that is why my grandparents and parents left; sadly the USA has turned socialistic too; on the farm we do as we please and drop trees on those that trespass!!!
thanks for a great video; all the very best in safety health and prosperity; enjoy your thanksgivings for many years to come
@@alaric_ in Germany there is a first Chainsaw-License for cutting trees up to 20 cm thick (8 in) and costs € 200, if you want to cut thicker trees there is the second License that costs up to € 500, if you have an accident cutting trees without a Chainsaw License and proper safety gear then good luck with the Health Insurance! and yes... we even have to have a License to go fishing here... no safety gear for that though.
Be safe out there from USA is logging still going strong were you are
Thank you for this. I've been cutting down small trees around a property for years but as the projects have gotten more ambitious it was time I had better idea how I should go about them. This video provided just the insights required.
I’ve no doubt:
With this video,
you’ve saved lives!
(And prevented no small amount of embarrassing fiascos )
Thanks I’ve had to cut a few big trees in my time and was always concerned re direction of fall, trees in excess of 12m . I had never realised the importance of the hinge, and it’s now pretty obvious!
Great video! I've been an urbanite my whole life, so this is really interesting and educational for me. Always more to learn.
True enough on the no nonsense comment. Very good explanation of the wedge, hinge and back cut technic. Tree cutting is a very rewarding exercise when you are able to look at a standing tree and understand its dynamics on the stump. I enjoyed you cutting the dead ash tress because I'm about to tackle a half dozen or so standing dead ones here at my place that are about to become dangerous from top decaying branches. Every species is different and dead trees are by far the most unpredictable and dangerous to fell. I want to give you credit for your logic, skill with the saw and clear concise explanation of what it takes to get a tree down. You taking the time to make this video will keep a lot of people safe. Thank you.
i was trained to always cut your escape route before falling any tree , that way if you have to run you dont trip or get tangled up in any brush . Also i always wore chaps , designed to entangle the chain if you ever get a kick back .
Sounds like you watch videos of how too And one of those who's never had a Saw in your hands. Armchair professional detected.
@@keithclark486 - well, he’s right either way..
I bought some chaps recently but keep forgetting to take them with me when I head to our property to work on tree-felling. Then my dad told me a story about my uncle bucking a tree when they were younger. The chain got bound up and jumped off the bar, flipped back and caught on the zipper of his jeans and literally unzipped his pants. From that point on, he wore chaps. I think I will from now on too. :-)
Come on man, no good escape paths, no chaps and shorts ?
@Ramz_1 I think you mean geometry
We used to call that wedge a Scarf when I was felling trees, often we would cut deeper scarfs and came at it from a higher point on the other side. You are so right that the hinge is critical ...
He doesn't t know what he his doing. And it shows!!!
The lack of grace online is tragic!
Watched your excellent video and followed your advice and took down a very large dying pecan tree with no issues and perfect placement. Thanks for posting your video...much appreciated!!!
The best tutorial on timbering ever! My father in law does this for money and I assisted many times. He never bothered to explain in detail why and how he cuts down a tree to fall so precisely. Now I know :-)
Excellent video that explains clearly the theory behind safe felling technique. I'd like to have seen more use of wedges as I think this is an important technique that novices don't grasp. Also as a retired medical practitioner who has dealt with trauma from sharpened steel, I'd always recommend the wearing of Class 1 chainsaw trousers and steel toecaps whenever you use a chainsaw, no matter what the weather. Stay safe. 👍
Thanks for the detail explanations on the cuts. The other videos are very basic. "This cut, that cut there she blows". You probably saved lives with this video.
This is a tremendously insightful video, with especially illuminating commentary. Thank you for your time in sharing this video!
One of the most informative videos I've ever seen. Taught in an easy way to understand. THANK YOU
I am getting hook on the physical and mental discipline involved in felling a tree. You have taught me a great deal
Not sure why this video popped up in my recommendation queue since I watch primarily guitar videos but I'm glad it did. Very well done, really comprehensive (to me) and I'll be using the info to fell some trees on my land. Thanks!
because the "youtube Gods" want you to make your own guitar from scratch.
Wow! Mine too. I was watching Music is Win and Metallica videos. Suddenly I’m learning how to fell trees.
Excellent video, with a lot of vital information. I bought 50 Acres of land recently, and I plan to start clearing a path for a driveway soon. It's mostly smaller trees about 8-12 inches in diameter with the odd larger one here and there, but I still feel much safer having done some research first and glad I found your channel. I plan on putting these methods to use by practicing on some smaller trees first. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Absolute MUST WATCH for all noobs! Thanks a lot for this crystal clear demonstration. I'm really happy I did not attempt any of my bigger trees before watching this.
Some really good stuff here and some great deliberate mistakes! I was also impressed with you trying to force a barber chair, but using the long reach to do it, to keep yourself away. I'm still a fan of chainsaw trousers ;) ! Have you ever looked into either a split level cut or my personal favourite a safe corner cut for trees where there's a danger of it sitting back and trapping your saw? Bore/plunge through, retreat out a quarter to a third of the diameter, then punch out the back of the tree. You'll be left with an uncut corner at the back, but that tree won't go anywhere. Smack your wedge in and then take out the corner. No chance of your saw getting caught and the tree falls only when you're ready to make it. A great safe cut worth having in your armoury.
The split level's harder and is designed for trees you want to take against a lean and is ideally done with a felling bar
Nice work all the same!
Thank you so much for this video! I'm going to be cutting some larger trees down in the near future. I have cut a few maybe 5 little ones in my life and it was freaky. going to be watching more videos before I attempt any larger trees but this was an awesome introduction! Very thorough and educational which is exactly what I needed!
I was cutting a large Oak branch while standing on a ladder. Half way through the cut and the branch snaps. It swings down and knocks the ladder right out from underneath me … I tossed the chainsaw on the way down and landed on top of the ladder- that was it for the day.
Excellent detailed explanation on the all the parts needed for a safe cut. Actually got nervous along with you on that shed tree, but you handled it like a pro. Thanks for taking the time to do/post this.
I would like to see a part 2 where you show how to safely cut the tree up. Lots of potential hazards there too.
Good Point! I hope he does one LOL I just subscribed!
Start from the 'top' of the tree and the ends of the branches and work your way down. Avoid cutting any branches with a lot of weight on them. Always cut from the uphill side when cutting the main trunk - otherwise it might roll onto you. I never cut a branch where the upper side is under compression - the tree can move unpredictably.
I had a terrible accident with a tree that was down. The stresses on the trunk over uneven ground and branches pulling on the body are enormous.
I found out the hard way, after 40 years of cutting trees. I guess maybe time had dampened my fear and judgement a bit.
Five shattered ribs and 2 nights in ICU gave me a renewed respect for how torque works!
Trees are dangerous, whether they are standing straight, leaning or lying on the ground.
And part three, stump removal.
@@elricofarmer1561 "The stresses on the trunk over uneven ground and branches pulling on the body are enormous."
So very very true - one of the most overlooked potential hazards when a tree is grounded.
Hope you healed well!
You’re so good, even trying to do it wrong was hard. Awesome video, I came expecting to watch the first 3mins, stayed for the whole thing. Rock on brother 🤘🏽🤘🏽
Before felling a large tree for a new chainsaw virgin, i watched an evenings youtube. Your couple of main guides taught me so much in the prep, main drop and best practice on the ground. Absolutely brilliant wanted to return and say thanks I learned so many skills ❤
Great video - thank you. I learned a huge amount here. I cringe when I think about the trees I’ve taken down with no understanding of the hinge concept. At least I knew enough that I wasn’t comfortable tackling anything bigger than about 18” across and so stayed away from the bigger stuff.
Interesting video and well done on explaining the general principles ... One suggestion though, when cutting the wedge (we call them 'birds mouth' in the UK), you are cutting them between a third and half way through the trunk ... It would be better for a controlled fall if you only cut one quarter of the way in. This leaves a much wider back (or felling) cut, giving you more room for wedges (especially 'high lift' wedges) whilst still being able to get the saw in to thin the hinge. I would initially aim to make the hinge thickness about one eighth of the overall diameter and would if needed plunge cut the middle of the hinge out from the front of the birds mouth prior to making the felling cut ... Eg. in a 16" dia base, the hinge(s) would have a section of about 2" x 5" on each side with the plunge cut at the bottom centre of the birds mouth, well below the felling cut ... This technique becomes even more critical if the tree is diseased and the heart wood rotten
Once again, well done and thank you 🌳😎
I really wish I understood what you're talking about. It sounds like vaguely useful information but I just can't follow it.
@@jakester455 Yeah, I struggle as well. Might be cause I'm not accustomed to all the words. Would be nice with some visualisation.
@@jakester455 He is saying after you cut the wedge(Birds Mouth) plunge cut the center of it. After that make your back cut. As opposed to plunge cutting from the back cut to the center , after you find out the hinge isn't letting the tree fall...The question that arises from the explanation is how you know to do that before the back cut.
I’ve had to cut some dead trees around a home my wife and I built at different times !
Dead trees mostly with no expertise just winging it .
Lucky I didn’t get seriously hurt ,electricians and tree work dosent go hand and hand .
I will have to say I do see the logic in your explanations of dos and donts
You tube is great the internet world and goggle has probably saved a lot of lives !
Thanks for the video 👏👏
Fantastic video, great teaching style, straight forward and filled with common sense! Much appreciated!
Thoroughly liked this video. Thank you for doing it. I've been off this week trying to fell my first trees ever and making a lot of mistakes even after watching other videos. Was so glad to find yours. You emphasized the important stuff without scaring the sh!+ out of me which I'm struggling enough with
thank you. That is the difference between someone that knows how to do something and someone that can put it into words so it can be taught.
It is nice to see that he uses a Stihl chainsaw, which I believe is the best and most reliable saw around. Also very good advice given in this video. One thing I would add and that is in windy conditions felling tall heavy trees I would use extreme caution and better to wait for less windy conditions.
Yes, avoid windy days at all costs!
Also avoid heavy drinking the night before or the morning of the planned felling. I had a crew of guys with chainsaws and trucks show up in front of my house one morning. I was working in my garage and didn't think much of it, as plenty of neighbors had trees that needed trimmed. I waved, and they waved back, but continued talking among themselves. Well, after about 15 minutes I heard the saws fire up, and they sounded eerily close to my prized maple in my front yard, which looks exactly like the Keebler Elf Tree, which I had already paid good money to have trimmed the year before. I walked outside and to my astonishment one the guys was getting ready to make a face cut at the base of my tree! I screamed "Hey jackass! What the F^&* DO YOU THINK YOU'RE DOING??!!"
They all looked at me real confused like, about 6 of them, early to late 20's.
The guy bent over getting ready to cut says, "Are you Brandon?"
Me: "No I'm not Brandon, there's a Brandon that lives a few houses down the street!"
The guys were apologetic enough, but I could smell the bar on their breath and clothes from the night, or just a few hours before.
I watched them as they drove their trucks exactly 3 houses down, based on my loose description, they didn't knock on his door to make sure it was the right house, or the right tree, and they commenced to cutting down one of his big beautiful maples which took a total of about 5 minutes to bring down.
I didn't really know the guy, so never asked if they actually cut the right tree down or not.
I felt like I'd dodged a huge bullet though, just for the fact that I was working from home and caught them before disaster occurred. Had they felled my prize tree, it would have killed my home's curb appeal, and likely cost more than 50k in property value.
The thought of them haphazardly cutting the wrong tree, really kind of made me sick to my stomach. 🤢
Echo saws are very reliable and I think better than the new Stihl saws
@@larrymiller5171 I think it depends on how you define "better". When it comes to emission control and fuel management Stihl is better. When it comes to warranty Echo is better. When it comes to light weight Echo is better, but most professionals do want some weight to their chainsaw. When it comes to experience Stihl has the edge. I find the maintenance and taking apart a chainsaw for cleaning that Stihl is better. If you ever have to replace parts Stihl parts are way cheaper.
Stihl is a German company whereas Echo is Japanese.
And I am not saying that Echo chainsaws are bad, but like the Husqvarna's I prefer Stihl.
Now I’ve chosen a tree that’s not very big here because I’m not a dumbass hahahaha. Well put 👏
That tree is still big enough to kill a man.
lel
@@notinterested8452 cue Rage Against The Machine (How I Could Just Kill a Man)
@@notinterested8452 true but its less likely.
Absolutely the best instructional video I have viewed on UA-cam. I am Planning to cut down two trees (medium size trees) in my backyard. Thank you for posting. This helps me a lot. I am gathering my safety hats, wedges etc. Thank you again.
This is really well explained, and somehow you have dodged the mountain of jackass comments seen on most felling videos. I like the way you clearly think through the forces involved. Regarding control lines, I try to keep my control line at right angles to the intended fall, so as the tree comes down, the line maintains the same tension and control all the way down.
Henry you are the best. I love your channel and your safety tip is right on.