A file cuts when pushing away, if you drag a file on the backstroke, you dull the file, and give me a headache, ah ha. I had to stop the video. The best video out there on sharpening i've seen is the millwright machinist fella. He is like a poet with a file, Man and file at one. Makes me purr like a kiddy. Nice you help your friend, I got a feeling your a better filer since you made this video and your buddy's saw is forever sharp. Living and learning. Thanks.
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
With the uneven sharpening he says it came with that really needed to go on the bench and be dressed properly with the 2 in 1. For a stump "hack" filing, from a shite starting point, that didn't come out too bad. I got a Pferd (same as) and it gave me one more run out of chains I thought I couldn't get another sharpening out of.
I had a buddy bring me his saw too - he actually gave it to me since "it won't cut" and I reluctantly took it (a Craftsman- built by Poulon) and quickly found he had the chain on backwards. I turned the chain around and brought it back to him and he wasn't gonna take it no matter what I did to it. Reality-wise, I just use a Dremel and the correct barrel-stone to sharpen my chains by hand. No jigs, No vice, just me 'n my Dremel working on a side shelf on my wood harvesting trailer. I've never found a file that worked as well as I want. I have also gone away from the designed-in angles on the teeth to closer to 80 degrees and find it cuts a lot faster in almost all directions (rip and crosscut) and throws big chunks of wood. Confession time: I also remove almost all of the rakers. As a sidebar, I cut and round-split-stack over 10 cords of wood each year for my sole heating source here in Montana, at 46.123 degrees North Latitude - more than 1/2 way to The North Pole. Sharpening at closer to a perpendicular angle to the bar - keeps the side pressure off the chain guide too and they last a lot longer that way if you don't get them blue. The +/- 30 degree angle is mostly designed to push the tooth sideways into a 'set-type' of condition to give the chain a little more clearance. I find I just don't need it. Your results may certainly be different - but I like what I get.
@@ronaldwilkins6056 Frankly .... "hardwoods" and "Montana" in the same paragraph is an oxymoron. The hardest wood here is Lodgepole ... a non-diciduous, fir-type wood. I like cutting with a chisel point for several reasons that, like I said, doesn't wear on the guide bar as much. You've got to have the horsepower to pull a straighter tooth, or keep the feed easier. Wet wood or dry, it's happy to cut either.
@Tree Man I'm not the only person who has done that. Sometimes... a bunch of years ago... I would take a few chains to a local saw shop to get them sharpened and I'd apologize for grinding off the rakers. "We see that all the time" they said ... so it's not so strange for me that I might be the only weirdo to do it. I can feed a little lighter ... allow the weight of the saw to create the desired cut and it's a lot easier on my back. Even dropping a tree, the horizontal cuts are easier as it wants to pull itself automatically... sortta. I can limit it's appetite for wood by raising the handle to take part of the chain off the cut. It takes a little getting used to the way it works, but the learning curve is short and much more productive. As to the flatter angle on the cutting edge... I find the "set" process invoked by a more acute angle (20-25° or so) creates a lot of friction, guide bar wear and lost cutting power when the set forces the chain sideways in the bar groove. At a certain point it is a tradeoff in performance verses wear and obvious mitigation of operating cost. IOW ---> its cheaper to square off the angle a bit, but still allow a modicum of set to open the cut so the saw doesn't bind. I see no purpose to, nor have tried a true 90° face angle as it cannot open the kerf sufficiently. It would almost totally cut bar wear to a minimum though! That's all the purpose of that factory acute cutting angle is for --- opening the kerf to let the rest of the guide and the returning chain ... to pass through easier. That may be easier on a weekend DIYer, but production-wise, the factory angle doesn't work as well for what I am doing. HTH.
When I started out chainsawing, and was learning to sharpen a chain, I got to the stage of, like your friend did, having the chain that sharp it would slice the pads of my fingers, yet it still wouldn't cut. Despite having the 'rakers' (depth gauges) set to the right depth. I've since learnt what the problem was.
@@tysonbrown1277 I'd cut through my log, and hit stones on the bottom of the log on the ground,. That rounded the cutting edge of my teeth over and the leading edge no longer had contact with the wood that it was trying to cut. The remedy was to sharpen the tooth back till all the damage was removed.
@@SeriousSchitt you may have answered my question.....my saw wouldn't cut properly, the teeth were wearing on the top...i will try filling until the damage is gone
Man, most power tools have a bit of leeway, my circular saw for example can cut through nails if you go slow enough, and it doesn’t really affect the blade....but with a chainsaw if you touch the dirt it’s game over. :/
I have a small engine repair shop and have used a saw in the bush falling and shake block cutting for years, and one thing that will help your saw cut better and faster is...see where the paint is chipped off on the bar of the saw in the video on the bottom edge? any saw that has had a lot of use is going to have a burr hanging over the edge of the bar that you can catch your finger nail on, that will drag thru the cut, take off your bar and file that burr off, that burr is worse on saws that were pushed hard thru cuts because it was dull and the bar was heated up making that burr worse.
I can see he is pushing the saw through the wood even after correcting the depth gauges, the saw should move through that cedar in about one second. First thing I thought was burr.
This is why I remove the rakers completely on my saws. It's not for everybody - obviously - and requires a different sense of 'being the saw' as a requirement - but it surely takes a lot of the wear factor our of the chains and the bar, not to mention the engine gets to hum a lot higher note where the clutch is fully engaged and it's in the horsepower RPM range designed in by the manufacturer. I'm not sure if Stihl does it, but Husqvarna has an RPM Limiter built into the coilpack.
just turned 62, in all my years in the woods, never ever witnessed anyone sharpen a power saw like this, i own 2100 Husky, bot new in 85, thankfully she did not see this. had to stop at 3 minutes, i pray i do not have nightmares.
@@cheaphomesteading my question is if you know that’s incorrect filing why would you show it like there’s people watching your video to learn proper saw maintenance and that ain’t it “if it takes me 6 hours to cut down a tree, I will spend the first 4 sharpening the ax.”- Abe Lincoln
It is cutting better after taking down the depth gauges, but the chain is still not sharp enough. It should pull through the wood effortlessly without applying much downward pressure at all. Work the saw, don’t let the saw work you. Cutting with a really sharp chain is pure joy.
Remember make sure you push down when filing,you want the C to be deep. Dont forget to flip your bar every 2 filings and drill out the oiler hole in the bar. It clogs less and the bar stays cooler
Brother I don’t mind the whole sharpening without a stump vice. You gotta do whatcha gotta do but every time you back drag that file I get the heebeejeebies 😂
I think he had a lot to file off and since its just the rakers and his back strokes were light I don't see a problem especially since the guide stops him from taking to much off.
@@jamesdavidson3246 Exactly. A file is designed to cut one direction. It would be like pulling a wood saw over steel backward. It would hold up for a while, but you are lowering the life of the file by about 75%. The depth gauges are usually set when necessary by the person who does the sharpening. I have a dial indicator on my grinder so I set mine every time I sharpen them. Just my preference, not required. The saw chain is a complex of angles, and don't even get me started on the full chisel chain, LOL. I can grind them but I also have 40+ years in a machine / repair shop, along with being a mechanical engineer, and a real pain in the ass. Smiles!
I agree 100 percent. Many disagree saying it does not matter. That is their way, and fill your boots. I also sharpen chisels and knives. With chisels and planer blades always draw towards you all the way to 3000 grit. You can slice rice paper after.
The 'rakers' don't 'rake' the cut - they work as a depth controller preventing the cutting teeth removing too much wood and jamming in the cut. If because of sharpening a tooth has become higher than its depth controller, then the tooth is prevented from cutting its optimum amount of wood. Each raker should be filed to the same level as the adjacent teeth.
AHA! Man I need to thank you! I've had a problem with my chainsaw not cutting well its a Stihl and I've sharpened it and sharpened it and it will still take me all day just to cut through something that size. I haven't attempted to fix it yet but i've never addressed the rakers and I'm almost certain that is what the issue is. Thank you so much for posting this. After watching countless videos on chainsaw maintenance and not getting anywhere I think I have the answer.
My Dad always said that you should be able to maintain and service any equipment that you operate, therefore I have not had to take my chainsaw to a service center, it also saves $$, plus I keep friends and neighbors going.
Being able to fix your own stuff is so inpatient because if you can’t you are going to have big bills at the repair shop. Thanks for watching and have a good one
I don't use any fancy guides or vices when out in the field. I do when I'm in the shop. But I simply know a sharp chain with sufficiently low enough rakers when I see it. My saws cut like a hot knife through butter. I use a flat file for the rakers and only file in one direction. I place the file length wise on the chain to check for depth between teeth.
Honestly in my opinion if you're going to own a chainsaw you should learn to sharpen it the proper way with a regular round file and a flat file for the rakers none of this sharpening tool crap if you learn the right way you'll be much happier and better off and not frustrated why your saw is not cutting
I have that stihl sharpener. It cut sharpening time in almost half, and is super simple to use. And I don't have to carry a raker gauge, flat file, and round file. I can take just that stihl sharpener and a scrench and get the job done.
No idea how many chains I've sharpened over the years but I've always told handfilers after 3 times of doing that bring it in & let me true it up with the wheel.
I just dropped a deuce in my drawers right after my heart palpitated watching you file. That being said, let me drop a side note in here. After I file with my Stihl (the proper way) I always make a second pass on the rakers with a flat file. Stihl did make a great little handy tool but I feel like they were a bit conservative on the file system and I like it a bit more aggressive.
Me too. I actually use a rotary grinder now. I find I can sharpen it with less waste. Taking a sliver off. I use a Dremel for the rakers. Did it by hand for over 40 years, love the machine.
How to ruin your chain and bar like a pro 🙄😫🤮 I have never seen someone abuse a file on a chainsaw that badly... Really bad advice to do it like that 👎
I went to my chainsaw dealer to buy a guide to file down the rakers. He told me his customers didn't file the rakers. After more years of aggrivation I changed dealers.
Wow! Great Entertainment! Some of the comments even better! Having said that, it is Your Channel Sir, but DO keep in mind the inexperienced or impressionable viewer and how this may unduly influence unsafe practices. Stay well and please stay safe.
I totally did the exact same thing the other day. I got the teeth nice and super Sharp and totally forgot to darn rakers!!! Lol now i gotta go back and get it right.
Great video! something that probably would be worth mentioning is for people who hand sharpen is not to file the raker too much otherwise the saw will want to bite too much and become more likely to kick back. You can get a gauge to check them every few times you sharpen. I have used one of those stihl sharpeners, they are pretty great for beginners but i found it a little slower than free hand
My channel is how I do things good or bad. On the homestead I cut about 14 face cord of wood to burn.last year I was clearing a pasture. So my chainsaw probably runs more then most unless you are a professional. I have cut down rackets with a hand file. I was showing the stihl sharpening system it sharpens and cuts the rakers down at the same time to the right height. Thanks for watching man
@@cheaphomesteading back dragging dulls the cutter..check out "buckin billy ray Smith" he's a true master on a power saw and file.. worth checking out at least.
Looked like he was trying to take the teeth off instead of sharpening them. Dam! Seen that file bending in the middle. Easy my dude, your TRYING to sharpen a chain not starting a fire with sticks.
I have a small sharpening service I operate and have NEVER back dragged the file thru the cutter Also he has forgot 1 MAKOR aspect and that is the bar. If there is a burr or the bar that will slow down or stop the cutting. If you have the bar and chain in the shop you have to check all three. Chain, rankers, and the bar.
great job...I'm 67 and never used a chainsaw till this past July. We bought an old farmhouse with an outside wood boiler. We need to feed the boiler 6 months per yr. requiring a large amount of wood. So I bought a Stihl MS 311, and several used machines too. I purchased the 2-in-1 Sthil sharpener for a 3/8's full chisel chain. The sharpener works great. I have heard that there are other models of the Sthil 2-in-1 sharpener too. Can you tell why there is more than one type? Thank you.
The stihl 311 is a good saw congrats. There are different types of stihl 2in1 sharpeners for different size chains example is I have a ms211c that takes a 3/8p chain and then I have a husky 365 that takes a regular 3/8 72 chain. The kerf on the cutting tooth is actually a different size.
Don't you guys understand that he's sharpening the chain wrong on purpose? That's why he threw up that disclaimer. I think the whole purpose of the video is to demonstrate how much better you can make your chain cut by using a Stihl sharpener, even if you do things improperly.
always amazes me how little most saw operators know about maintaining the power saw and especially the proper set up of bar and chain. I know everybody starts from no knowledge but it seems some think things are going to magically happen to suit their needs. You have to take time and expend effort, money resources, to learn how to keep and run your saw, apparently that is something many just will not do. Go figure?
I grind the rakers with a bench grinder to start with and the problem is gone for along time, don’t grind them all the way off just a couple of seconds for each one will be good until the teeth are sharpened half down.
@@culpylt101 thanks to the bullshit liability safety garbage "every operator should start the chainsaw flat on the ground, or cradled between their legs" When in reality no one does this because it's a pain in the ass AND is by far no more safer than the yo yo. ex while standing thrust the saw towards the ground and pull up with the ripcord to turn the saw over, thats the yo yo
I was just wondering two days ago when cutting a tree down. What to get to sharpen my chain. Thanks, Now I know what I'm going to get. Thanks for the video.
I don't see anyone commenting how fat that thing is running. I mean I get it, it's hard to focus on anything after the rated R filing. Lean that thing up!
my Stihl saw will start cutting about 6 inches into a tree then it gets hung and stops cutting I half to force the blade out it's basically brand new only cut maybe 10 trees small ones to
Just wanted to add a comment as a fist time chainsaw owner. After having a chain sharpened and raki g down the rakers I was dumbfounded as to why mine wasn’t cutting. After ordering a new chain I found out you can put the chains on bacwards🧐
Your absolutely right your supposed to sharpen and set the saw. 2 things to take care with, Dont draw the file backwards over the work it causes the teeth on it to close up dulling the file and secondly the say is 4 stroking under load so maybe a little rich on the high circuit. Good luck.
Lol I got a little disturbed, makes a big difference, I would also think that not taking down the guides would cause excess wear and heat on the chain and bar. Thumbs up
Ustam videolar bilgilendirici olmuş emeğinize sağlık. Benim testerem sola doğru kayıyor belli noktadan sonra sıkışıp kalıyor paladan diye düşündüm.yeni pala ve zincir aldım olmadı.balatanin yeri düzgün eğilme falan yok yinede Olmadı hala yan kesiyor sebep ne olabilir ?
You HAVE to take the rakers down , no ifs no buts , but never file backwards, that new Stihl tool is bees knees you get the right angle and it takes the rakers down at the same time, great tool.
I would not normally be a pedantic dick but in this case, it is exactly relevant. They are not rakers. They are depth gauges. Rakers are what was on the old manual push-pull saws and got carried over to be used colloquially on modern power saws. Rakers and depth gauges are entirely different functions. If you want to sound like you know what you are talking about, use the correct terminology especially if it is this relevant. In common casual talk, it probably is not that big a deal.
@@cheaphomesteading *you're Welcome, my pleasure. Have a blessed day keep up the great work. By4Now Ken* Don't be a stranger look forward to hear from you👍
Try a non kickback chain that might help. Your right about the debeth of the. Look at the chips the should be not to thick and they should curl when sharp. I made the mistake of anti kickback chains. It will cut hard wood like hot knife threw butter.
Also after a while the bar will have a “ ridge “ form on it, you can feel this with a finger nail, on all four sides of the chain rail, file these areas also😎
You know i've injured my hand by starting a chainsaw like this, the end of the starting rope came back very fast and hit my hand like a whip with the sharp end, i went to hospital and could not use the hand for 2 weeks. The right way is to start the machine on the ground with a foot making weight.
I bought my Stihl 066 logging saw in April of '95. I've only ever started it using the correct 'drop' start method... I'm simply unable to start it any other way!
@@SeriousSchitt Wrong! You need to learn to start it right, or at least not encourage Anyone new to saws to use the ‘drop start’ method. And that will take out an ‘easy start’ system on a saw. I know a guy that drop started his saw, didn’t have the brake on, and it caught just right and fired up, and ran the chain right into his leg! Please be safe.
Gidday cheap homesteading your right about those stump vices die cast useless, I bought one first stump I tried to hammer it into with the maul one of the posts broke off .
This is the funny part about UA-cam, everyone has an opinion. Just because someone does something different doesn’t make it wrong, if it works for you awesome.
Those rakers determine how much depth of the wood chip is cut each time the chain advances. if you took those rakes all the way down, and had a huge horsepower increase, that thing would fly through the wood! Change the top angle of the tooth cut to a much steeper angle and it will do great rip-sawing a log! (I'm too lazy to split big ones!) A very shallow angle will do better on real hard wood like Lignum Vitae or ironwood.
That chain needs to be profiled.. so much dust.. put it on the bench grinder. That will get them all profiled. Finish off with hand file... Hone chain with hand file every other fuel up.. clip the chipers when nessisary..
A little constructive criticism a file only cuts one way only apply pressure in the direction the file cuts. I’ve learned the hard way ruining good flat files. Don’t make the same mistakes I made. Have fun and be careful 😊
Great video with good information. I saw the title and thought of the rakers, but some people like your friend might not know and will be happy to find this. I once had a real mystery with my chainsaw. I charpenend the chain and it was cutting good. But suddenly it pulled to the left and the bar wedged itself in the cut. But it was still bringing good and big chips. So the chain could not be dull. Or could it? I brought it to a chainsaw shop and they looked at it and said the chain is NOT sharp. There was a nail in the tree and I hit it with the teeth on the right side of the chain. They got dull, but the teeth on the left stayed sharp and pulled the cut off to the side.
A file cuts when pushing away, if you drag a file on the backstroke, you dull the file, and give me a headache, ah ha.
I had to stop the video.
The best video out there on sharpening i've seen is the millwright machinist fella.
He is like a poet with a file, Man and file at one. Makes me purr like a kiddy.
Nice you help your friend, I got a feeling your a better filer since you made this video and your buddy's saw is forever sharp.
Living and learning. Thanks.
Yep! Your right! That was painful 😂
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
IT STILL LOOKS LIKE ITS NOT CUTTING RIGHT TO ME.
With the uneven sharpening he says it came with that really needed to go on the bench and be dressed properly with the 2 in 1.
For a stump "hack" filing, from a shite starting point, that didn't come out too bad.
I got a Pferd (same as) and it gave me one more run out of chains I thought I couldn't get another sharpening out of.
That's a first for me. Never have I seen someone use a file like that.
I had a buddy bring me his saw too - he actually gave it to me since "it won't cut" and I reluctantly took it (a Craftsman- built by Poulon) and quickly found he had the chain on backwards.
I turned the chain around and brought it back to him and he wasn't gonna take it no matter what I did to it.
Reality-wise, I just use a Dremel and the correct barrel-stone to sharpen my chains by hand. No jigs, No vice, just me 'n my Dremel working on a side shelf on my wood harvesting trailer. I've never found a file that worked as well as I want.
I have also gone away from the designed-in angles on the teeth to closer to 80 degrees and find it cuts a lot faster in almost all directions (rip and crosscut) and throws big chunks of wood.
Confession time: I also remove almost all of the rakers.
As a sidebar, I cut and round-split-stack over 10 cords of wood each year for my sole heating source here in Montana, at 46.123 degrees North Latitude - more than 1/2 way to The North Pole.
Sharpening at closer to a perpendicular angle to the bar - keeps the side pressure off the chain guide too and they last a lot longer that way if you don't get them blue. The +/- 30 degree angle is mostly designed to push the tooth sideways into a 'set-type' of condition to give the chain a little more clearance. I find I just don't need it.
Your results may certainly be different - but I like what I get.
same here with my brother in law. Some people just should'nt use tools.
Interesting...can you comment on that 80 degree edge's effectiveness on hard woods?
@@ronaldwilkins6056 Frankly .... "hardwoods" and "Montana" in the same paragraph is an oxymoron. The hardest wood here is Lodgepole ... a non-diciduous, fir-type wood. I like cutting with a chisel point for several reasons that, like I said, doesn't wear on the guide bar as much. You've got to have the horsepower to pull a straighter tooth, or keep the feed easier. Wet wood or dry, it's happy to cut either.
@@SurferJoe46 I've never been to Montana but I figured there weren't many Elms/Oaks/etc there.
@Tree Man I'm not the only person who has done that. Sometimes... a bunch of years ago... I would take a few chains to a local saw shop to get them sharpened and I'd apologize for grinding off the rakers.
"We see that all the time" they said ... so it's not so strange for me that I might be the only weirdo to do it. I can feed a little lighter ... allow the weight of the saw to create the desired cut and it's a lot easier on my back. Even dropping a tree, the horizontal cuts are easier as it wants to pull itself automatically... sortta.
I can limit it's appetite for wood by raising the handle to take part of the chain off the cut.
It takes a little getting used to the way it works, but the learning curve is short and much more productive.
As to the flatter angle on the cutting edge... I find the "set" process invoked by a more acute angle (20-25° or so) creates a lot of friction, guide bar wear and lost cutting power when the set forces the chain sideways in the bar groove.
At a certain point it is a tradeoff in performance verses wear and obvious mitigation of operating cost.
IOW ---> its cheaper to square off the angle a bit, but still allow a modicum of set to open the cut so the saw doesn't bind.
I see no purpose to, nor have tried a true 90° face angle as it cannot open the kerf sufficiently. It would almost totally cut bar wear to a minimum though!
That's all the purpose of that factory acute cutting angle is for --- opening the kerf to let the rest of the guide and the returning chain ... to pass through easier.
That may be easier on a weekend DIYer, but production-wise, the factory angle doesn't work as well for what I am doing. HTH.
When I started out chainsawing, and was learning to sharpen a chain, I got to the stage of, like your friend did, having the chain that sharp it would slice the pads of my fingers, yet it still wouldn't cut. Despite having the 'rakers' (depth gauges) set to the right depth. I've since learnt what the problem was.
What was it
@@tysonbrown1277 I'd cut through my log, and hit stones on the bottom of the log on the ground,. That rounded the cutting edge of my teeth over and the leading edge no longer had contact with the wood that it was trying to cut. The remedy was to sharpen the tooth back till all the damage was removed.
tyson brown n
@@SeriousSchitt you may have answered my question.....my saw wouldn't cut properly, the teeth were wearing on the top...i will try filling until the damage is gone
Man, most power tools have a bit of leeway, my circular saw for example can cut through nails if you go slow enough, and it doesn’t really affect the blade....but with a chainsaw if you touch the dirt it’s game over. :/
I have a small engine repair shop and have used a saw in the bush falling and shake block cutting for years, and one thing that will help your saw cut better and faster is...see where the paint is chipped off on the bar of the saw in the video on the bottom edge? any saw that has had a lot of use is going to have a burr hanging over the edge of the bar that you can catch your finger nail on, that will drag thru the cut, take off your bar and file that burr off, that burr is worse on saws that were pushed hard thru cuts because it was dull and the bar was heated up making that burr worse.
I can see he is pushing the saw through the wood even after correcting the depth gauges, the saw should move through that cedar in about one second. First thing I thought was burr.
This is why I remove the rakers completely on my saws. It's not for everybody - obviously - and requires a different sense of 'being the saw' as a requirement - but it surely takes a lot of the wear factor our of the chains and the bar, not to mention the engine gets to hum a lot higher note where the clutch is fully engaged and it's in the horsepower RPM range designed in by the manufacturer.
I'm not sure if Stihl does it, but Husqvarna has an RPM Limiter built into the coilpack.
just turned 62, in all my years in the woods, never ever witnessed anyone sharpen a power saw like this, i own 2100 Husky, bot new in 85, thankfully she did not see this. had to stop at 3 minutes, i pray i do not have nightmares.
I hope it doesn’t cause you too much mental anguish. That’s why put a warning before the sharpening segment. Thanks for watching man
@@cheaphomesteading my question is if you know that’s incorrect filing why would you show it like there’s people watching your video to learn proper saw maintenance and that ain’t it “if it takes me 6 hours to cut down a tree, I will spend the first 4 sharpening the ax.”- Abe Lincoln
It is cutting better after taking down the depth gauges, but the chain is still not sharp enough. It should pull through the wood effortlessly without applying much downward pressure at all. Work the saw, don’t let the saw work you. Cutting with a really sharp chain is pure joy.
Agree, was impressed by how it was cutting after sharpening. It should throw nice chips and not dust and should go through cedar faster.
Remember make sure you push down when filing,you want the C to be deep. Dont forget to flip your bar every 2 filings and drill out the oiler hole in the bar. It clogs less and the bar stays cooler
😂
Brother I don’t mind the whole sharpening without a stump vice. You gotta do whatcha gotta do but every time you back drag that file I get the heebeejeebies 😂
Lol. I know
Like nails on a chalkboard.💅
I think he had a lot to file off and since its just the rakers and his back strokes were light I don't see a problem especially since the guide stops him from taking to much off.
When you back drag you dull the file faster.
@@jamesdavidson3246 Exactly. A file is designed to cut one direction. It would be like pulling a wood saw over steel backward. It would hold up for a while, but you are lowering the life of the file by about 75%.
The depth gauges are usually set when necessary by the person who does the sharpening. I have a dial indicator on my grinder so I set mine every time I sharpen them. Just my preference, not required.
The saw chain is a complex of angles, and don't even get me started on the full chisel chain, LOL. I can grind them but I also have 40+ years in a machine / repair shop, along with being a mechanical engineer, and a real pain in the ass.
Smiles!
I thought the chain was going to be on backwards 😂 seen that before!
Omg. I use the Stihl sharpener too and my body completely cringed up watching you jab it like a bow saw. Shocked that it even cut.
You never ever ever ever use a file backwards,the file only cuts forwards.
Same with a reamer
Not only does it not cut backwards it is hard on the file to drag it backwards against the tooth.
Yeah dragging a file backwards isn’t really harming it or shortening its life, unless you got exceptionally cheap files.
That Olde Wyves Tale is totally debunked ---- see this video on dragging a file backwards: ua-cam.com/video/xbykic--SKA/v-deo.html
I agree 100 percent. Many disagree saying it does not matter. That is their way, and fill your boots. I also sharpen chisels and knives. With chisels and planer blades always draw towards you all the way to 3000 grit. You can slice rice paper after.
Seventh grade metal shop, I was 11, actually the only thing I can remember learning that year was not to ever use a file in both directions!
FireBall Tool did a good video on filing/sharpening both directions. You'd be surprised at the outcome.
The 'rakers' don't 'rake' the cut - they work as a depth controller preventing the cutting teeth removing too much wood and jamming in the cut. If because of sharpening a tooth has become higher than its depth controller, then the tooth is prevented from cutting its optimum amount of wood. Each raker should be filed to the same level as the adjacent teeth.
AHA! Man I need to thank you! I've had a problem with my chainsaw not cutting well its a Stihl and I've sharpened it and sharpened it and it will still take me all day just to cut through something that size. I haven't attempted to fix it yet but i've never addressed the rakers and I'm almost certain that is what the issue is. Thank you so much for posting this. After watching countless videos on chainsaw maintenance and not getting anywhere I think I have the answer.
My Dad always said that you should be able to maintain and service any equipment that you operate,
therefore I have not had to take my chainsaw to a service center, it also saves $$, plus I keep friends and neighbors going.
Being able to fix your own stuff is so inpatient because if you can’t you are going to have big bills at the repair shop. Thanks for watching and have a good one
Keep doing what you're doing man. If it works it works!
I don't use any fancy guides or vices when out in the field. I do when I'm in the shop. But I simply know a sharp chain with sufficiently low enough rakers when I see it. My saws cut like a hot knife through butter. I use a flat file for the rakers and only file in one direction. I place the file length wise on the chain to check for depth between teeth.
Honestly in my opinion if you're going to own a chainsaw you should learn to sharpen it the proper way with a regular round file and a flat file for the rakers none of this sharpening tool crap if you learn the right way you'll be much happier and better off and not frustrated why your saw is not cutting
Sthil sharpener he is using actually works great! If used right. This guy shouldn't be using a file period!!
I have that stihl sharpener. It cut sharpening time in almost half, and is super simple to use. And I don't have to carry a raker gauge, flat file, and round file. I can take just that stihl sharpener and a scrench and get the job done.
if he used it the right way he could have gotten a sharp saw but he just mangled it to hell
Man, I did not get to far and I realize he is a Canadian boy like myself. "Starts dandy, eh?"
Wow bud, you're really going to town with that back forth file job there bud! Geezus!!
That warning was definitely needed but I still wasn't ready for that, but it did cut better than it did at the start.
On a Stihl always use a Stihl guide and Stihl chains. Best sharper I have ever used.
It is the best hand sharpener I have used by far. Thanks for watching man
I never do chain sharpening at work. i've got half a dozen spare chains with me all time and i do all my chain sharpening at home on the bench vise.
No idea how many chains I've sharpened over the years but I've always told handfilers after 3 times of doing that bring it in & let me true it up with the wheel.
I just dropped a deuce in my drawers right after my heart palpitated watching you file. That being said, let me drop a side note in here. After I file with my Stihl (the proper way) I always make a second pass on the rakers with a flat file. Stihl did make a great little handy tool but I feel like they were a bit conservative on the file system and I like it a bit more aggressive.
You might want to see a gastroenterocardiolgist.
@@jimcervantes5659 Too funny
Me too. I actually use a rotary grinder now. I find I can sharpen it with less waste. Taking a sliver off. I use a Dremel for the rakers. Did it by hand for over 40 years, love the machine.
Nasty!
I just knew this was gonna be a "chain is backwards" video
How to ruin your chain and bar like a pro 🙄😫🤮 I have never seen someone abuse a file on a chainsaw that badly... Really bad advice to do it like that 👎
Good assessment. Sound. Solid. Thanks.
OOOOO No.... Stop.. Stop... for the love of Mike.. Stop..
Nooooooooooo, please stooooooop
It was definitely disturbing to watch you destroy that file.
I still use the sharpener it works great. people say it destroys files but that hasn’t seen it. Thanks for watching man
you have no idea how a file is made or used do you?@@cheaphomesteading
I sharpen my son's Stihl chain couple weeks ago, I thought it sharpen hard compared to an Oregon chain. CK Shingle would like to have that cedar.
This gentleman reminds me of a joke. Man takes chainsaw back to dealer says saw won't cut. Dealer starts saw, man says "What's that noise?".
I went to my chainsaw dealer to buy a guide to file down the rakers. He told me his customers didn't file the rakers. After more years of aggrivation I changed dealers.
Wow! Great Entertainment! Some of the comments even better! Having said that, it is Your Channel Sir, but DO keep in mind the inexperienced or impressionable viewer and how this may unduly influence unsafe practices. Stay well and please stay safe.
I totally did the exact same thing the other day. I got the teeth nice and super Sharp and totally forgot to darn rakers!!! Lol now i gotta go back and get it right.
Amazing how many people don't know to file the rakers. Good video and a happy friend. Thanks
Great video! something that probably would be worth mentioning is for people who hand sharpen is not to file the raker too much otherwise the saw will want to bite too much and become more likely to kick back. You can get a gauge to check them every few times you sharpen. I have used one of those stihl sharpeners, they are pretty great for beginners but i found it a little slower than free hand
How would it kick back? Wouldnt it catch and yank away from you? Im cutious
@@zanderness yes it pulls away when cutting down but when cutting upwards or boring through it pushes back towards you
I use the Stihl sharpener and fins it to be excellent!
I'm glad my 7th grade shop teacher taught me how to use a file. Would love to see this guy work a hand saw
My channel is how I do things good or bad. On the homestead I cut about 14 face cord of wood to burn.last year I was clearing a pasture. So my chainsaw probably runs more then most unless you are a professional. I have cut down rackets with a hand file. I was showing the stihl sharpening system it sharpens and cuts the rakers down at the same time to the right height. Thanks for watching man
@@cheaphomesteading back dragging dulls the cutter..check out "buckin billy ray Smith" he's a true master on a power saw and file.. worth checking out at least.
Will do thanks for watching man
@@cheaphomesteading your very welcome:)
Looked like he was trying to take the teeth off instead of sharpening them. Dam! Seen that file bending in the middle. Easy my dude, your TRYING to sharpen a chain not starting a fire with sticks.
Thank you for sharing. I'll have to check it out. I've been having problems with my chain Saw cutting properly lately.
Oh that hurt to watch hahaha. To top it off, he's using an Oregon bar on a Stihl. BLASPHEMY!
I have a small sharpening service I operate and have NEVER back dragged the file thru the cutter Also he has forgot 1 MAKOR aspect and that is the bar. If there is a burr or the bar that will slow down or stop the cutting. If you have the bar and chain in the shop you have to check all three. Chain, rankers, and the bar.
Try reading the instructions on the sharpener. It's not a hacksaw, and comes with clear, specific, instructions for outstanding results.
Seeing the title, and not watching I came to the rakers. Seen that many times....
As soon as you started filing, I was OUTTA here
Thanks for watching as long as you did have a good one
Except you took the time to make a comment!!! So you must not of been out of here very quickly!!!
@@rockerpat1085 I bet a silver dollar he watched the whole thing, and won't admit it.The video came with warning for the weak at heart.
Sorry man, this just hurts to watch.... please educate yourself!
Bang on sunny jim the man should not have a chainsaw
.....it is amazing how some people don't know to bring down the rakers .......Thanks for sharing
It is. People assume you just have to sharpen the tooth. Thanks for watching my friend
great job...I'm 67 and never used a chainsaw till this past July. We bought an old farmhouse with an outside wood boiler. We need to feed the boiler 6 months per yr. requiring a large amount of wood. So I bought a Stihl MS 311, and several used machines too. I purchased the 2-in-1 Sthil sharpener for a 3/8's full chisel chain. The sharpener works great. I have heard that there are other models of the Sthil 2-in-1 sharpener too. Can you tell why there is more than one type? Thank you.
The stihl 311 is a good saw congrats. There are different types of stihl 2in1 sharpeners for different size chains example is I have a ms211c that takes a 3/8p chain and then I have a husky 365 that takes a regular 3/8 72 chain. The kerf on the cutting tooth is actually a different size.
Don't you guys understand that he's sharpening the chain wrong on purpose? That's why he threw up that disclaimer. I think the whole purpose of the video is to demonstrate how much better you can make your chain cut by using a Stihl sharpener, even if you do things improperly.
always amazes me how little most saw operators know about maintaining the power saw and especially the proper set up of bar and chain. I know everybody starts from no knowledge but it seems some think things are going to magically happen to suit their needs. You have to take time and expend effort, money resources, to learn how to keep and run your saw, apparently that is something many just will not do. Go figure?
Oooow. Cmon man, not both ways!😁
Are you kidding me? Are you really kidding us here?
I grind the rakers with a bench grinder to start with and the problem is gone for along time, don’t grind them all the way off just a couple of seconds for each one will be good until the teeth are sharpened half down.
There's a gauge for that.
hahaha, I love how arborists on camera always start the saw on the ground or between their legs when we ALL do the "yo yo pull cord method"
Could u explain this to me just started being a logger 3 weeks ago clearing land. I mostly just cut stumps off of trees.
@@culpylt101 thanks to the bullshit liability safety garbage "every operator should start the chainsaw flat on the ground, or cradled between their legs" When in reality no one does this because it's a pain in the ass AND is by far no more safer than the yo yo. ex while standing thrust the saw towards the ground and pull up with the ripcord to turn the saw over, thats the yo yo
Seamus snow, Hear Hear! As a life long timber cutter, I couldn't agree more.
I was just wondering two days ago when cutting a tree down. What to get to sharpen my chain. Thanks, Now I know what I'm going to get. Thanks for the video.
Are you serious??
it’s a really good sharpener. It does a great job and it is very portable to take with you in the bush. Thanks for watching man
Thanks. I will do the exact opposite of this video and my saw will cut perfectly.
I don't see anyone commenting how fat that thing is running. I mean I get it, it's hard to focus on anything after the rated R filing. Lean that thing up!
GREAT VIDEO VERY EDUCATIONAL
You're right that was offensive 😂
Time to get a new chain
Great video Pete. I'm going to have to look into that system. Thanks for sharing.
You won’t regret it. It is vary good and quick. Have a good one
my Stihl saw will start cutting about 6 inches into a tree then it gets hung and stops cutting I half to force the blade out it's basically brand new only cut maybe 10 trees small ones to
Just wanted to add a comment as a fist time chainsaw owner. After having a chain sharpened and raki g down the rakers I was dumbfounded as to why mine wasn’t cutting. After ordering a new chain I found out you can put the chains on bacwards🧐
Great point to add that is a vary common mistake. So it’s cutting like a new one now? Have a good one man
Have done that. I was young and inexperienced and learning on my own. My dad had a laugh at my expense!
Made a big difference. Good sharpener for sure. Have a Blessed Day Pete!
Your absolutely right your supposed to sharpen and set the saw. 2 things to take care with, Dont draw the file backwards over the work it causes the teeth on it to close up dulling the file and secondly the say is 4 stroking under load so maybe a little rich on the high circuit. Good luck.
It won't dull the file --- ua-cam.com/video/xbykic--SKA/v-deo.html
He don’t have a clue .
Lol I got a little disturbed, makes a big difference, I would also think that not taking down the guides would cause excess wear and heat on the chain and bar. Thumbs up
Ustam videolar bilgilendirici olmuş emeğinize sağlık.
Benim testerem sola doğru kayıyor belli noktadan sonra sıkışıp kalıyor paladan diye düşündüm.yeni pala ve zincir aldım olmadı.balatanin yeri düzgün eğilme falan yok yinede
Olmadı hala yan kesiyor sebep ne olabilir ?
I have made the same mistake till I got the pfered sharpener
You HAVE to take the rakers down , no ifs no buts , but never file backwards, that new Stihl tool is bees knees you get the right angle and it takes the rakers down at the same time, great tool.
I would not normally be a pedantic dick but in this case, it is exactly relevant. They are not rakers. They are depth gauges. Rakers are what was on the old manual push-pull saws and got carried over to be used colloquially on modern power saws. Rakers and depth gauges are entirely different functions. If you want to sound like you know what you are talking about, use the correct terminology especially if it is this relevant. In common casual talk, it probably is not that big a deal.
WHOA !!!!!!!!!!! ,,,,, dude the file only works one way ,,, any faster it will ignite lol
Nice review thanks for sharing keep up the good work bye for now Ken look forward to hearing from you and happy New Years
Thanks for watching man
@@cheaphomesteading *you're Welcome, my pleasure. Have a blessed day keep up the great work. By4Now Ken*
Don't be a stranger look forward to hear from you👍
Blunt tool is a dangerous tool in other words if you has to force any tool an accident is going to happen 😱🐺🐾
Try a non kickback chain that might help. Your right about the debeth of the. Look at the chips the should be not to thick and they should curl when sharp. I made the mistake of anti kickback chains. It will cut hard wood like hot knife threw butter.
It really helped me. Had the same problem. Glad I came across this video!
you may want to consider TELLING and SHOWING folks what a raker is
Is it to do with clutch? In my case chain won’t stop at idle
brilliant tool had some when they first come out got different size one i recommend
Also after a while the bar will have a “ ridge “ form on it, you can feel this with a finger nail, on all four sides of the chain rail, file these areas also😎
i did that when i first had a chainsaw no knowlage but after 20 years im a pro
You know i've injured my hand by starting a chainsaw like this, the end of the starting rope came back very fast and hit my hand like a whip with the sharp end, i went to hospital and could not use the hand for 2 weeks.
The right way is to start the machine on the ground with a foot making weight.
I bought my Stihl 066 logging saw in April of '95. I've only ever started it using the correct 'drop' start method... I'm simply unable to start it any other way!
@@SeriousSchitt Wrong! You need to learn to start it right, or at least not encourage Anyone new to saws to use the ‘drop start’ method. And that will take out an ‘easy start’ system on a saw. I know a guy that drop started his saw, didn’t have the brake on, and it caught just right and fired up, and ran the chain right into his leg! Please be safe.
Good job. And don't you think that you could change a bit on your sharpening technic? I mean its your decision but im trying to help.
Gidday cheap homesteading your right about those stump vices die cast useless, I bought one first stump I tried to hammer it into with the maul one of the posts broke off .
This is the funny part about UA-cam, everyone has an opinion. Just because someone does something different doesn’t make it wrong, if it works for you awesome.
So true. thanks for watching man
Those rakers determine how much depth of the wood chip is cut each time the chain advances. if you took those rakes all the way down, and had a huge horsepower increase, that thing would fly through the wood! Change the top angle of the tooth cut to a much steeper angle and it will do great rip-sawing a log! (I'm too lazy to split big ones!) A very shallow angle will do better on real hard wood like Lignum Vitae or ironwood.
Agree man and I hate Splitting elm and Ironwood
Forgot about that elm!! Bad news for splitting! Burns pretty much without a flame too. Not pretty in a fireplace.........
That chain needs to be profiled.. so much dust.. put it on the bench grinder. That will get them all profiled. Finish off with hand file... Hone chain with hand file every other fuel up.. clip the chipers when nessisary..
Chain stopping while cutting.
What is the problem
Ummmm this should be titled "How not to file a chain"
sounds to me that the hi speed jet needs adjustment, the revs are too low.
Sounds too rich to me
A little constructive criticism a file only cuts one way only apply pressure in the direction the file cuts. I’ve learned the hard way ruining good flat files. Don’t make the same mistakes I made. Have fun and be careful 😊
Hey, files cut ONE WAY ! Never in both directions. Bill is in the mail (or single malt accepted)
Great video with good information. I saw the title and thought of the rakers, but some people like your friend might not know and will be happy to find this.
I once had a real mystery with my chainsaw. I charpenend the chain and it was cutting good. But suddenly it pulled to the left and the bar wedged itself in the cut. But it was still bringing good and big chips. So the chain could not be dull. Or could it?
I brought it to a chainsaw shop and they looked at it and said the chain is NOT sharp.
There was a nail in the tree and I hit it with the teeth on the right side of the chain. They got dull, but the teeth on the left stayed sharp and pulled the cut off to the side.
Lowering rakers IS sharpening the chain.
Agree
Maybe the saws in reverse 😂
Now I know how to not sharpen my saw.
That’s the beauty of UA-cam you don’t always have to agree how we do things. Thanks for watching man and have a good one
THERE IS ONLY ONE WAY AND THAT'S " THE RIGHT WAY"!
learn to file without a guide, then you will understand what it takes to make your saw cut, look at the chips on the ground, they will tell you a lot.