A simple trick that greatly improves the appearance of a train where a curve meets straight track is a transition curve, or easement. Draw the straight track centerline 1/2” to the outside of the curve centerline. Then a thin wooden stick can be held on the straight track CL and bent to the curve CL and traced on the plywood. Or you can just let the flex track conform as you lay it to the two different CL’s. The finished product is a thing of beauty as a train smoothly eases from the curve to straight track without the unrealistic suddenness of the non offset track!
I contemplated having easements and superelevation. And to be honest, I don't know if I had a reason for not including those elements. But you are right, easements really help!
In the yard, I am using 2 inches. The geometry of the Walthers turnouts works out to that spacing when used in a simple yard ladder. Those are the only parallel tracks. The yard lead that curves around with the main track is about 3 inches.
I'll preface my response with that I've used almost every brand of turnout, and handlaid my own too (on other layouts). So this layout is the culmination of that trail and error. And all those other brands are good brands. Each have their own benefits and drawbacks. So the Walthers turnouts use a continuous closure/point rail. No hinge. And all the rails of the same polarity are electrically connected together. That means I can airbrush the whole switch, points and all, without fear of dead spots. That was a big factor for me. Also. There were a couple of switches where I wanted to use a number 10, which Peco does not offer.
@signalupproductions thanks for the explanation. Makes sense. Pecos code 83 switches have changed and they also have no hinge on the switch points. It's one continuous rail now roo. But to my knowledge they only go up to a #8 in code 83. I look forward to the rest of the videos in this series. Thx!
Well done. I have something similar to making the tracks curve just right. Very handy tool.
Hi Signa Lupproductions & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Signaluppductions & Friends Randy
Thanks, Randy! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Nice!....Thanks
A simple trick that greatly improves the appearance of a train where a curve meets straight track is a transition curve, or easement. Draw the straight track centerline 1/2” to the outside of the curve centerline. Then a thin wooden stick can be held on the straight track CL and bent to the curve CL and traced on the plywood. Or you can just let the flex track conform as you lay it to the two different CL’s. The finished product is a thing of beauty as a train smoothly eases from the curve to straight track without the unrealistic suddenness of the non offset track!
I contemplated having easements and superelevation. And to be honest, I don't know if I had a reason for not including those elements. But you are right, easements really help!
@ I’ve never been brave enough to try superelevation!
Awesome video, this helps so much! Do you know how far you have the track apart from each other? I have been told 2 - 2 1/2 inches
In the yard, I am using 2 inches. The geometry of the Walthers turnouts works out to that spacing when used in a simple yard ladder. Those are the only parallel tracks. The yard lead that curves around with the main track is about 3 inches.
Hello. Thanks for the video. Very helpful tips. I am also using code 83 Peco track. Any particular reason why you didn't use Peco switches too?
I'll preface my response with that I've used almost every brand of turnout, and handlaid my own too (on other layouts).
So this layout is the culmination of that trail and error. And all those other brands are good brands. Each have their own benefits and drawbacks.
So the Walthers turnouts use a continuous closure/point rail. No hinge. And all the rails of the same polarity are electrically connected together. That means I can airbrush the whole switch, points and all, without fear of dead spots. That was a big factor for me. Also. There were a couple of switches where I wanted to use a number 10, which Peco does not offer.
@signalupproductions thanks for the explanation. Makes sense. Pecos code 83 switches have changed and they also have no hinge on the switch points. It's one continuous rail now roo. But to my knowledge they only go up to a #8 in code 83. I look forward to the rest of the videos in this series. Thx!
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