The prices WREN charge the worktops should be pre cut for easy assembly. And if you try this for yourself please don't cheap out on the glue, make sure both surfaces are saturated, little dribbles like he uses are like a coffee cream pot on a wheatabix
With regard to the removal of the edge laminate strip - having marked and scored with a sharp knife at the required finish position, starting at the back edge on the underside, use a sharp chisel to separate the strip from the worktop, carefully work towards the top corner and as soon as you have enough 'lifted', use a pair of pliers to unwind the strip as you would a sardine can. I also cut the finish score line with a fine tooth saw to make sure the strip didn't come off any further than I wanted it.
How did he cut the straight cut on the sink worktop for the hob worktop to make it a straight joint not a mitred one? did he just remove the laminate strip on the edge?
Update for you. Apparently you measure the width of your worktop then with a sharp knife scribe through the laminate edge and remove the laminate edging with a palm router or the joining router by the thickness of your edging strip. Then just cut the bolt holes out.
Lee Millar hi mate yes that was left out I use a profile cutter same as the cutter used to cut work top but with a bearing top or bottom just set profile back the thickness of laminate to be removed or you can do a normal mason mitre with the work top jig
Thanks Bernard will give that a go. I have also heard you can use a blade to scribe the front edge through the thickness of the front strip then using an iron or a heat gun warm the glue underneath the front edge and pry the laminate off.
The worktop shown here is Luxury Laminate with an 'Aleve' finish. Here is a direct link to view our fantastic range of countertop surfaces and colours - www.wrenkitchens.com/kitchens/worktops.
Slight mistake here, when fitting the part of the worktop where the hob is, he forgot to leave an extra overhang of 20mm in the length of the worktop for the décor panel which fixes onto the side of the base unit, we've all made that mistake. In other words the worktop needs to be left a bit longer so it will cover the top edge of the décor panel. Hope this helps.
I think the side panel of the next one will cover that as he dont need a worktop there anymore So side one will go all the way up till wall units and it will be two panels in one Maybe check one of the other videos and youll see
I’m installing a Wren kitchen work tops tomorrow, you just use thinner clamp bolts and set your router to a lower depth when cluttering out for the bolts
@@6565tigga they sent short bolts only half the length of normal so the standard jig for cutting these is too far apart. Also they sent 3 biscuit joint pegs. It willbe tricky not cutting all the way through with the router. I've found some easy fit bolts online. Just screw them underneath one each side and tighten. This may be a plan 😁
The prices WREN charge the worktops should be pre cut for easy assembly.
And if you try this for yourself please don't cheap out on the glue, make sure both surfaces are saturated, little dribbles like he uses are like a coffee cream pot on a wheatabix
I made two jigs one for sink and one for hob out of mdf 9mm bigger for router bush worked lovely.
With regard to the removal of the edge laminate strip - having marked and scored with a sharp knife at the required finish position, starting at the back edge on the underside, use a sharp chisel to separate the strip from the worktop, carefully work towards the top corner and as soon as you have enough 'lifted', use a pair of pliers to unwind the strip as you would a sardine can. I also cut the finish score line with a fine tooth saw to make sure the strip didn't come off any further than I wanted it.
Great work wren
How did he cut the straight cut on the sink worktop for the hob worktop to make it a straight joint not a mitred one? did he just remove the laminate strip on the edge?
I wondered that
Mine has a metal trim edge and I'm wondering the same.
Update for you. Apparently you measure the width of your worktop then with a sharp knife scribe through the laminate edge and remove the laminate edging with a palm router or the joining router by the thickness of your edging strip. Then just cut the bolt holes out.
Lee Millar hi mate yes that was left out I use a profile cutter same as the cutter used to cut work top but with a bearing top or bottom just set profile back the thickness of laminate to be removed or you can do a normal mason mitre with the work top jig
Thanks Bernard will give that a go. I have also heard you can use a blade to scribe the front edge through the thickness of the front strip then using an iron or a heat gun warm the glue underneath the front edge and pry the laminate off.
Please could you let me know the name of the worktop shown in this video?
The worktop shown here is Luxury Laminate with an 'Aleve' finish. Here is a direct link to view our fantastic range of countertop surfaces and colours - www.wrenkitchens.com/kitchens/worktops.
Slight mistake here, when fitting the part of the worktop where the hob is, he forgot to leave an extra overhang of 20mm in the length of the worktop for the décor panel which fixes onto the side of the base unit, we've all made that mistake. In other words the worktop needs to be left a bit longer so it will cover the top edge of the décor panel. Hope this helps.
No,you’re mistaken, theres a tall decor panel going on there so the worktop needs to be flush with the unit.
I think the side panel of the next one will cover that as he dont need a worktop there anymore
So side one will go all the way up till wall units and it will be two panels in one
Maybe check one of the other videos and youll see
My wren worktop is 23mm thick. How do I join this. I've never joined a thin worktop this way
I’m installing a Wren kitchen work tops tomorrow, you just use thinner clamp bolts and set your router to a lower depth when cluttering out for the bolts
@@6565tigga they sent short bolts only half the length of normal so the standard jig for cutting these is too far apart. Also they sent 3 biscuit joint pegs. It willbe tricky not cutting all the way through with the router. I've found some easy fit bolts online. Just screw them underneath one each side and tighten. This may be a plan 😁
Ok. Glad you have it sorted. I’m interested to see these easy fit bolts. Any chance you can send some info over.
I liked it. :)
Brilliant explanation demonstration.
Voice over lady sounds like toyah from corrie
haha
Wren kitchens are shit. Please Google how bad they are before you part with your cash