What I enjoyed was the smooth flow of just the right information without any extras. This might be excellent editing, but I had the sense this was coming from someone (Matt his own self) who was completely fluent in every aspect of what he was covering. This is mastery of the subject, which with Matt runs deep with many other pieces of heavy equipment. I have the feeling he could easily teach the operation of all his equipment which requires amazing eye-hand-equipment coordination, with unusual depth perception. He’s absolutely excellent with an appealing manner, fun expressions and an amazing work ethic. You cannot outwork Matt. Miss Eva knows all this and high praise to her for letting him go on his way to seeing his plans for the future come to fruition, she’s not holding him back. They are a good team.
Ah, the video I didn't know I needed until I needed it. Years of being a fan of yours, but only now am I in the market for a bulldozer/backhoe combo. Thanks so much for your amazing videos. You taught me to be my own diesel mechanic and it's saved me countless times already on our homestead.
I have been dong this for over 60 years. About 50 years ago bulldozer/ backhoes were common in our area. The only place you see them now, is the backhoe overgrown with weeds or trees for good reasons, extra weight on the machine is not good in soft soils. The hoe changes the center of gravity, not as good on hills, clumsy if working around trees or obstructions, limits vision to rear, less productive than a separate bulldozer and separate backhoe.
I have never seen a video like this, I have needed a bulldozer but never had enough common sense to make a good decision on buying one. Good job on sharing thank you for the education.
This, sir... is a great video. Well paced, and not overblown with useless information. Just a good introduction to pre-work and purchase inspection and basic operation. Good work!
I had my own earthmoving company for many years. I would need to hire from time to time and if the new guy didn't grease the nipples at least once a day he would be out. I had rock breakers also which needed greasing a lot more often. I would watch from my office to see if the new guys checked anything before starting up, you would be surprised at the amount of people who just hopped straight into the drivers seat and start up. That guy would be on power wash for a couple of weeks. They seem to learn quite quickly. Oh I miss the old days. Love your videos young man.
you take alot more care when its yours, I know from experience, im lucky enough that when I work for others greasing isnt my responsibility they have guys that only do that all day.
Relic Hunter I have to tell you, I agree with you we all should be starting by making sure besides the liquids grease are everywhere is needed but I think if we don't enlist that in a piece of paper they're mandated to go through before starting an equipment or vehicle, no one almost absolutely will do it. They'll barely pass check they have fuel while cranking that's it, because there's no sense of making sure every fluid and grease is on the machine before I crank it to use it and that is the life of the machine. Same with power washing them often. I know water can damage but mud caked is tremendous enemy so, I think the undercarriage has to be washed every day. Who does that? The owner that wants his equipment to last the longest or in your case you probably assigned it.
Good presentation. My Dad had an excavating company and I grew up running equipment. Started running a dozer when I was 15. That was a very long time go. Dad was a Cat man but Komatsu is a good brand. Dad rarely bought used machines, preferred to wear them out himself. Our smallest dozer was a TD25, long since discontinued. Actually a better machine than I would have thought. 2 D8s & a D9 used as a scrapper pusher. What you referred to as a pin on the chain would be better referred to as the bushing. Newer machines will have sealed and lubricated pins & bushings. Under carriages are expensive! You got a good one. Water & sand quickly destroy them. Machines that have worked in the mountains are often broken where it is hard to see.
We also look for blow by. We open the oil fill while idling and put a clean sheet of paper over it for a short while before closing it up and looking at the amount of droplets that wind up on the sheet.
one way to check that not would end up with you in the ER. is pop it open with the engine is dead cold start it and check for bubbles. if no bubbles feel the a coolant line get a feel for it. then warm the engine up and check the same coolant line should be firm.
This may be a little off subject but having been a construction inspector for years around "yellow" iron that I've heard it referred to... I always look to make sure the operator can always see me and I never get into a potentially dangerous position around dozers, backhoes, loaders, scrappers, cranes or any other machine for that matter. I do observe the machines (especially older ones) for broken parts worn hoses or any other thing wrong and I let the operator know as soon as I can get their attention. It's amazing how well jobs seem to go when they know that you're looking out for their best interests as well as your own.
A Big thank you for your video. You are very knowledgeable and a huge help to those of us looking at used dozers. I think it’s awesome that you would take the time to make this & other UA-cam videos! You Rock!
As a former Komatsu heavy diesel mechanic I give you a thumbs up well said. That being said, there's actually several Komatsu keys, some will let you start loaders but nothing else, others will allow you to turn the ignition but not start and others will allow you to unlock the door and nothing more. I guess these are for larger companies who want to control what detailers or semi-trained operators can do, but they're so ubiquitous that they really can't keep the master key out of anybody's hands. I love Dozers, D8s, D9s, D155s D275s, 375s, they have a real roar, I feel like I'm personally offending every rotten tree-hugger in the world every time I throttle one up. Thanks for the vid.
Dozer and loader operators breath in most of their own carcinogens because the stack dumps 3 feet in front of their face. The only person you likely hurt is yourself.
This Komatsu D41A is a Sweet Dozer For the Age and time frame. Also very informational video On what to look for and What to keep a Eye on and What not To do i think testing and using before you buy should be standred for anything you can drive Matt thanks for sharing. 26:52 @Diesel Creek
These are all great things to look at before buying, just keep in mind the backyard mechanic / operator is probably not well equipped to do his or her own work on the machine if something does go wrong. I've got a Komatsu D53S-17 and I have to use my backhoe just to remove the hood. My son jokes that nothing weighing under 100 pounds is bolted to that thing... and you'll need very big wrenches. Probably the best tip you gave was to try it to move a little dirt. It will make cylinders squirt if they need rebuilding, the sprockets will slip if the undercarriage is badly worn and it won't push without the engine under labor as you said. The owner should be glad to let you try it if it's as good as they tell you. The buyer really need to think about the machine they are looking at and not buy on impulse or under pressure. As they say, there are plenty of fish in the sea. Great video Diesel Creek!
Other things I do. Do a true cold start if possible, it will tell a lot about an engine. Check all oils for any sign of water. Check engine when running for excessive blow by.
yes there were a few super basic things like that I completely forgot to mention, trying to make a video for people with limited to no knowledge on such things makes you realize how much you know and take for granted to check yourself! thanks for reminding me of those!
You can do an oil analysis if you have time / access to the machine - it will tell the tale on engine and powertrain components. I also like to take an infared thermometer to the idler bearings / rollers to get an idea if they are running hot / have bad bearings. You can use a profile gauge on track components but most guys use outside calipers to measure the pin diameter for wear. Good video - good insights.
My cousin ran a dozer for nearly 35 years. Took a toll on his butt with all the cysts, hemorrhoids, and the like. Gotta love your job a lot to endure the wear and tear on your behind. He certainly loved it, plus it paid well.
I didn’t know it had a six way blade, it should do almost as much as the grader when it comes to cutting the ditches along your road and cone the road too!
Worked for a fleet where I could work on everything from a weed trimmer to an excavator and everything in between. Watching the boys struggle with tracks and rollers made me really happy that I was the engine (CAT & Cummins) and electrical guy. I had enough fun rebuilding engines or wiring up our custom setups and building the occasional glider truck.
That was a really cool video. I can’t ever see a reason I would need a dozer unless bought a home with acreage with the potential for brush fires. After 30 years in the fire service I’ve learned what one dozer operator can do to save property. Really enjoyed that Matt.
I ĺook 2 see if the grease fittings are taking grease and all the stuff you said and I had2 raise the fuel petal 2 kill the power and I was taught to never put the Sattal? on a dead horse and remember u can use hard faceless rod in some place jk
I thought the teaching in this video was top notch , I learned a lot . I now know what to look for in a dozer. I'm not sure about removing the radiator cap on a warmed up engine. The pressure can push the cap off and burn you good easy. I had this happen to me on a truck while only running it a min or so thinking it wasn't hot but it got me. I am a mechanic but it fooled me anyways , so I don't recommend it. That was good advise about air bubbles coming from the water.
Only he doesn't know that much about Dozers, Direct drive is Clutch, Powershift is Torque converter automatic, hydrostatic drive is hydrolic Powered and Electric drive uses high Torque Electric motors to give faster response and higher torque than Hydrolic or dirrect clutch drive. Steering methods are, Steering Clutches, Steering Torque converters, Hydrostatic, or Differential drive. Differntial drive is the best. Also every dozer has two cut modes roll dirt or finnish grade, most opperators don't even know how to properly use a dozer they just use it to Finnish grade.
@@egomaniac247 Not Trying to be a Tough Guy but you need to know more than what is in this Video before buying a dozer would suggest talking to experienced opperators, or having an experienced opperator check out the machine for you.
I found this video to be of value, a lot of knowledge shared that is useful for first time buyers not familiar with this more affordable type of dozer!. I liked the radiator cap trouble shooting tip, and the undercarriage tips. Thanks for sharing!
Great video! I'll go one further with the torque convertor stall and that is keep it stalled with engine wide open and see how long it takes for both engine & drivetrain temps to rise. We always went by the 3 minute rule. If it can take that for 3 minutes without overheating then everything is probably in good shape. Just as important is to see how fast temps drop after that test with trans. in neutral and engine wide open. Also check the final drives oil...I've also drained them and poke around in cases to see if there's any shavings or parts floating around.
This is a great video. My father sold farm equipment and owned heavy equipment most all of his life. Your points are well taken and accurate. A lot of the time at an auction he would ask the seller the condition. That's all you have to go on other than visual condition. History and records help. Filters with dates of service help. Hydraulic cylinder leaks are common. Like you stated wear parts on the undercarriage are the most common issue. He liked Cat for parts and support. Thank you for a great video and service to those wanting to purchase a dozer.
Cat has the best parts availability and dealer network for sure but you pay a lot for that most of their machines themselves I don’t see as anything special... thanks for watching!
thats exactly what i said when I looked at it before buying, it starts like that in the cold too! I dont even know if the glow plugs work because ive never used them!
@Marty's Damn Channel I have! I used to daily-drive a surplus BMY M931A2 5-ton 6x6 truck. 8.3L straight-six turbo Cummins. It would start so fast you couldn't even let the key turn back before it was running! :) Never had to use the built-in ether spray injector, and I only ever hooked up the block heater(which I added myself) when the temp was below zero. That was my first diesel-powered vehicle, and I was very pleased that it was so easy to start :)
just about any diesel with direct injection as opposed to a pre-cup type, that has been sitting and has adequate battery power, will start that fast. That ain't no big deal.
Good information all the way around although it is much safer to remove the radiator cap prior to the engine getting warm to check for headgasket issues. Also he forgot to mention checking for blowbye which is important for diesels. That's fairly straight forward though. You take loosen the oil filler cap on the engine to the point that it is just sitting there and start the engine and see if it moves. Can be difficult with one person but can be done. Good idea to rev the engine up as well to see if you are getting any blowbye. I purchased a dozer last year and outside of the engine stuff went over everything else. On mine the man who was selling it son knocked a hole in the oil pan and since it didn't have an oil pan on it kind of difficult to check how it ran. I did crawl under the machine though and looked at the rollers, pins, and crankshaft on the engine so see if anything was damaged which it wasn't. Of course the price I paid reflected the issues as well. The other thing to see when looking at dozers is the ease of obtaining replacement parts. Some manufacturers are really good about keeping parts stocked for all their current and past machines and others are not so something to watch out for. My Dad has a Case 600 Terratrac which is an extremely handy little machine however it is difficult to find parts for it. In fact Dad had to get a pinion shaft made for it because he couldn't find one anywhere. He also has a IH TD-25B which we rebuilt the engine in and some parts for the engine were crazy expensive, 2k for a gasket kit.
Friend, how do you check for head gasket issues without getting the system warm? Don't get me wrong I'm not trying to shit on you, I'm just trying to understand :)
@@sovereign126 Reread what I wrote. Said to remove radiator cap prior to warming. Also depends on the severity of the headgasket issue. If it's really bad the oil can be mixed with coolant which you can tell prior to starting. Hope that clarifies what I was saying.
Quite an excellent video. Ive little experience with equipment, none on a dozer,but may find myself needing one in the near future,if i get to purchase some land im looking at. Thanks for sharing
You don't need to pop the cap to see if it is pressurized. That little flap looking lever on the cap, is the pressure relief valve that will vent through that hose there, to the expansion tank, or overflow dump hose. No need to burn yourself. I would only check for bubbles, if I were losing coolant.
Thanks for a great video. Even though I'm not thinking of buying a dozer I really enjoyed watching and listening to your advice. Where I come from we would say that your dozer has a powershift transmission (torque converter) and 'direct drive' means you just have a manual clutch and gears .
Thanks a lot for this timeless video with very important informations! I´ve seen many of your videos during the last view weeks and I have to say: Chapeau, Matt! You´re a clever and industrious guy (the videos are not finished by themselves) and I love to see the progress in your work. Best regards, Walter
This Dooser Komatsu D41A has no Torque Converter. The engine was connected directly with a driveshaft to the planetary gear transmission. If is slipping at the brake test, the engaged Gear Cluch is worn out and Transmission oil SAE 10 smells burnt. I have rebuilds one of this Type at 15 Years ago.
@@hudsonhawk0016 This one is made to be worked that way, there's a system built into the transmission and TC that negate the shock. I'd still never throw it into reverse with a full brake stop tho, why stress stuff?
i drove Bulldozers in the 90s for a company they made a lot of deep plowing and after that we plained the land with th dozer. I dont know how it is when they are new caus we had old dozers , but when they are old the Komatzu has more power , or i have to say different , you culd choke the eingine off on the Komatsu with the blade , the transmission does direkt do what you do with the stick. greetings from east frisia
By the way, the engine runs really well and the pins and bushings on the tracks look really good. As far as the cylinder leaks, that is the nature of the beast.
This guy is brilliant..I just discovered him on UA-cam..I know nothing mechanical but been on enough country and outback properties with abandoned machinery..property owners are intimidated by their size and expense of repairs but most who purchased properties with abandoned equipment have never tried to start or move them..this guy has shown basics to at least turn them over, batteries, air, oils etc..then take it from there...from the Hunter down under, thanks mate🇦🇺🦘🦘🦘🦘🦘🦘🦘🦘
I may have missed it, and not really a matter of condition, but weight is a consideration in picking a model. Pushing force in low gear is directly proportional to weight, but so is parts cost, and then how will it be transported(and how often), pushing force(weight) per foot of blade width may be a factor for hard dirt, but blade width would be no factor for something like pushing a stump or assisting other equipment.
My dad bought the exact same dozer new in 1987 .We sold it in 2012 with almost 8,000 hrs on it. Good grading dozer but it will stall out and the engine will run backwards but you won't find a better starting or running motor. Good to see an old 41A3A again, hope she last you a lifetime.
Am I correct in thinking that dozers like this do not have "neutral steer" like many of the older dozers or many military tracked machines? They have two levers, pull back on both and go forward, push forward on both and back up, pull one back and push the other forward and one track will go forward and the other back and you can spin in in place with the pivot point centered under the machine instead of under one track or the other.
Masterclass, as always! Thank you Matt! Is true and reasonable to search for those leaks and pick a dozer that actually have them will be like a bargain in comparison with engine and or transmission leaks which also can be fixed but, as long as they're operable at the most economic price, that's one equipment we want I think. Talking about the leaks, some are tolerable, that's why you and many keep them because they work regardless. It will look good fixed but, we'll need the time, energy and money for that.
This is The Best video that I have seen covering "what to look for in a used dozer". I've got plans to be on bare land, and I wanted a dozer. But did know for sure what exactly to watchful of. So Thanks. Just need some seat time now. My other peice of equipment I will need, an excavator...mid size for stumps and loading a sawmill. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Never buy a dozer with final drives that are not a planetary style. Part are also hard to find for older machines. Enjoyed your video.Brings back memories.
I'm currently in the market for a small dozer. I'm probably wrong but I always thought that "Direct drive" involved a master clutch lever, usually located on the left side. "Power shift" is what I believe you have where you can shift on the fly without any clutching. Torque converter drive eliminates the gear selector issue. I'm watching every video that can help me in my purchase.
You are correct but also not really what I was trying to communicate, direct drive in the sense that I am calling it means that it has a mechanical link to the drives from the engine, modern dozers are typically hydraulic drive so no clutch or torque converter make sense?
My first bye was a 1943 TD6 IHC. second was a 1953 TD6 IHC. parts are damn near impossible to find. One starts on gas and will not switch to diesel, and only turns to the right. Second one I still have not started, cleaning and gasketing carb, intake , starter and bad wireing. I travel once a month for 7 days to work on them, 450miles each way. Oh im 71 and retired, dont drimk alot and know reason to chase the ladies. Have more money in injectors that may or may not work than what i paid for number 2.
I like your video, good job. You’ve had some negative ned comments, but who said one should look on UA-cam for video perfection! One thing I’d add is if the hydraulic pump is strong you can lilt the tractor with the blade. Then you can see things like the bottom rollers and leaks better.
I am replying from Australia. Love your video and your farm. I purchased a D7G. I love it. I use it to clear trees on my farm. Look forward to more video's. Can you do one on maintenance. Thanks Geoff Bugden
Love it, check the fluids but don't worry about what they say..... I understand your comments but it just seemed everything was off.....Oh the irony somethimes.
I've run a CAT D5k a good deal. It's hydrostatic of course. There is really no comparison how productive and easy to operate that they are compared to these older machines. I'm not knocking the older machines. I love them too, it's just the joystick ones are an absolute pleasure to operate. Enjoyed the video.👍🏻👍🏻
You’ll get no argument from me there, ive run lots of D8t’s 6t’s 5&6N’s but I don’t like the K models the ones I’ve run all have the shifter you clunk back and forth and when you go to reverse they cross steer.... not a fan, I think the tiller handle is the way to go
Matt. I had a brand new Komatsu dozer in 1978, but for the life of me, I can’t remember what model or numbers it was. All I can remember is it was probably equivalent to a D6. The point is, it seems it was well more advanced that your Dozer, plus it was more modern looking. Are you sure you got your year right. I’m not criticising or doubting you, I think your machine is awesome. I think I am probably doubting myself. Or, maybe here in the uk we got different models than the USA.
Good cats for reclamation, Just make sure you don't get a buildup of frozen mud on your steps then circulate the hydraulic oil moving the blade in really cold weather last guy that used it didn't clean it up good enough when I tilted the blade it broke off the end of the cylinder it was 30 below zero though, Use a ice chipper to clean mud off the rollers so much nicer than track shovel.
Very cool tutorial, I enjoyed it. I'm thinking about buying a mini-excavator for basement weeping tile work and making trails in the bush but who doesn't love a bulldozer.
Thanks for the tips. Looking at an old Oliver OC 4. Never messed with dozers or crawlers before. Got a relatively small driveway to put in on our property. Plus it would be fun to play with.
I'm in computing and somehow found your video to be entertaining and informative, not sure what my fascination was about, but your thorough explanation kept me engaged, good job, thx.
Nice crisp tone to the engine, and nearly instant ignition, always a good sign, that's a pretty nice example of an older machine. I've got a Kotmatsu D21-A7, much smaller but I work on rural projects where a bigger machine can't access. Irrigation maintenance/installation, mountain roads in tight areas, etc. One more thing I look for.. after a machine sits for a spell (or looking at a used one), I always pop the air cleaner can to see if mice got in there and made a condo out of the filter element - more than once I've seen that, they get in through the weep drain on the bottom of the can, and worst case they get into the wiring under the dash, too. Look at the wear pattern on the hand/foot controls, see if it matches the indicated hours; same with the hour meter's appearance. Carrying a 12" straight edge to the auction to check for hydraulic cylinder ram integrity helps, see how straight and true they are. On either a straight or PAT blade, if operating you notice slight surging during the functions, might mean something as simple as low oil level, but can indicate a bad pump. Thanks for the vid, enjoyed seeing your machine!
your machine need to run and push some dirt. Sitting is a bad thing for a machine. I have operated many types and sizes of bulldozers. My favorite I ever had was an Allis-Chalmer. I can't remember the number of the machine but it was the size of a Cat D-7. I had the steering clutches on the console as yours does. I will say it was much smoother than yours. These clutch levers are not for quick turning but slow smooth turns while pushing dirt. If you want to make a quick turn just tap the brake left or right to make that sharp turn. Also, the decelebrator is also used for engine control whole pushing to change speed as required. It is setup this way so when pushing, you don't have to keep your foot on the pedal like a car. This keep you from getting tired and it also keep the engine from changing rpms caused by rough terrain. One more thing. I NEVER change gears on any machine without first lowering the rpms of the engine. NEVER switch from forward to reverse without decelerating the engine. Being a professional operator depends on how smooth you are in the seat.
The D31 & D 41 never had a decelerator as standard, Komatsus HYdroshift as they called was made to go fwd/rev at full revs they had a built in damper to eliminate shock loads in the driveline. Decelerator was an optional extra, I drove a new D 4D power shift that came with no decelerator from new, it was later fitted with a decel pedal as an extra and then it was a dog of a machine, 2 brake pedals and 2 decel pedals required fancy foot work to keep on top of it.
Great vid thanks! Im looking to clear 20 acres of alders and weed trees.Dunno what I need an excavator or a dozer. Not sure whats cheaper to run tho. any tips? thx
Personal experience, a dozer is a lot more mobile. You could use an excavator, but that will be slow going for that sort of work. Both will cost about the same in upkeep per hour of service, assuming relatively similar size. Fuel is almost always the biggest expense over the life of the machine.
I’ve cleared some decent sized trees before with a backhoe before, sometimes technique is more effective than just pure raw power. Anything tracked will be more expensive to run because of all the moving parts, but excavators have more intricate parts(with the ability to spin around and all.) If you’re clearing mostly brush though you should probably want something for pushing/moving junk out of your way and it’s easier to do that with a front loader or dozer. But if you don’t need lots of power id go with a backhoe, a jack of all trades. Also To remove trees with a hoe just scrape into the ground 6 inches on the front and sides to break the load bearing roots then just push over the tree. Then just scratch the dirt off the rest of the roots.
Thank you for sharing makes me want to get my 3444 International resurrected and start using again. Used to have JD2010's with 6 way and ripper bar. It was a fun part of life. But like you said it's expensive to own and real easy to rent new equipment now. Us excavators a lot more than hoe's and only a few times a year. Keep videos coming I really enjoyed. Greg H.
What I enjoyed was the smooth flow of just the right information without any extras. This might be excellent editing, but I had the sense this was coming from someone (Matt his own self) who was completely fluent in every aspect of what he was covering. This is mastery of the subject, which with Matt runs deep with many other pieces of heavy equipment. I have the feeling he could easily teach the operation of all his equipment which requires amazing eye-hand-equipment coordination, with unusual depth perception. He’s absolutely excellent with an appealing manner, fun expressions and an amazing work ethic. You cannot outwork Matt. Miss Eva knows all this and high praise to her for letting him go on his way to seeing his plans for the future come to fruition, she’s not holding him back. They are a good team.
Ah, the video I didn't know I needed until I needed it. Years of being a fan of yours, but only now am I in the market for a bulldozer/backhoe combo. Thanks so much for your amazing videos. You taught me to be my own diesel mechanic and it's saved me countless times already on our homestead.
I have been dong this for over 60 years. About 50 years ago bulldozer/ backhoes were common in our area. The only place you see them now, is the backhoe overgrown with weeds or trees for good reasons, extra weight on the machine is not good in soft soils. The hoe changes the center of gravity, not as good on hills, clumsy if working around trees or obstructions, limits vision to rear, less productive than a separate bulldozer and separate backhoe.
Ignore the criticism.Quality video and this type of information is a good starting point for anyone looking to buy any type of equipment.
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
I agree Justin. Might have just kept someone from wasting a ton of money
do you still have the bulldozer
I agree Justin
There are like no criticism, everyone praises the video
I have never seen a video like this, I have needed a bulldozer but never had enough common sense to make a good decision on buying one. Good job on sharing thank you for the education.
Man if I try to start something up after 2 or 3 months I got to charge batteries, grease something, run to parts store. That dozer is the bomb!
What a sweetheart just starts up without any issues and in cold conditions dont even need Glow Plugs nice Matt 11:09 @Diesel Creek
It was 85 degrees that day not sure Ive ever seen a diesel that needs glow plugs in weather like that.
This, sir... is a great video. Well paced, and not overblown with useless information. Just a good introduction to pre-work and purchase inspection and basic operation. Good work!
I had my own earthmoving company for many years. I would need to hire from time to time and if the new guy didn't grease the nipples at least once a day he would be out. I had rock breakers also which needed greasing a lot more often. I would watch from my office to see if the new guys checked anything before starting up, you would be surprised at the amount of people who just hopped straight into the drivers seat and start up. That guy would be on power wash for a couple of weeks. They seem to learn quite quickly. Oh I miss the old days.
Love your videos young man.
you take alot more care when its yours, I know from experience, im lucky enough that when I work for others greasing isnt my responsibility they have guys that only do that all day.
Perfect training for newbies on the power washer!!!….lol
Relic Hunter I have to tell you, I agree with you we all should be starting by making sure besides the liquids grease are everywhere is needed but I think if we don't enlist that in a piece of paper they're mandated to go through before starting an equipment or vehicle, no one almost absolutely will do it. They'll barely pass check they have fuel while cranking that's it, because there's no sense of making sure every fluid and grease is on the machine before I crank it to use it and that is the life of the machine. Same with power washing them often. I know water can damage but mud caked is tremendous enemy so, I think the undercarriage has to be washed every day. Who does that? The owner that wants his equipment to last the longest or in your case you probably assigned it.
Good presentation. My Dad had an excavating company and I grew up running equipment. Started running a dozer when I was 15. That was a very long time go. Dad was a Cat man but Komatsu is a good brand. Dad rarely bought used machines, preferred to wear them out himself. Our smallest dozer was a TD25, long since discontinued. Actually a better machine than I would have thought. 2 D8s & a D9 used as a scrapper pusher.
What you referred to as a pin on the chain would be better referred to as the bushing. Newer machines will have sealed and lubricated pins & bushings. Under carriages are expensive! You got a good one. Water & sand quickly destroy them. Machines that have worked in the mountains are often broken where it is hard to see.
We also look for blow by. We open the oil fill while idling and put a clean sheet of paper over it for a short while before closing it up and looking at the amount of droplets that wind up on the sheet.
If an engine has that little blowby that you need to put paper over it to see it's a good engine...
I've got a 80 year old D7. I need another exhaust stack for the crankcase vent. Let's just say she's worn-out. The blowby smoke about kills me.
one way to check that not would end up with you in the ER. is pop it open with the engine is dead cold start it and check for bubbles. if no bubbles feel the a coolant line get a feel for it. then warm the engine up and check the same coolant line should be firm.
This may be a little off subject but having been a construction inspector for years around "yellow" iron that I've heard it referred to... I always look to make sure the operator can always see me and I never get into a potentially dangerous position around dozers, backhoes, loaders, scrappers, cranes or any other machine for that matter. I do observe the machines (especially older ones) for broken parts worn hoses or any other thing wrong and I let the operator know as soon as I can get their attention. It's amazing how well jobs seem to go when they know that you're looking out for their best interests as well as your own.
Good inspection can make or break a job! thanks for looking for my fellow operators! and thanks for watching!
Scrapper. Lol I never knew Rocky Balboa was ever on a job site. I see SCRAPERS on sites a lot.
@@Species5008
Yup you're right. It's "scrapers" or to some folks it's a "pan."
A Big thank you for your video. You are very knowledgeable and a huge help to those of us looking at used dozers. I think it’s awesome that you would take the time to make this & other UA-cam videos! You Rock!
As a former Komatsu heavy diesel mechanic I give you a thumbs up well said.
That being said, there's actually several Komatsu keys, some will let you start loaders but nothing else, others will allow you to turn the ignition but not start and others will allow you to unlock the door and nothing more. I guess these are for larger companies who want to control what detailers or semi-trained operators can do, but they're so ubiquitous that they really can't keep the master key out of anybody's hands.
I love Dozers, D8s, D9s, D155s D275s, 375s, they have a real roar, I feel like I'm personally offending every rotten tree-hugger in the world every time I throttle one up. Thanks for the vid.
Can you send me your email address?
I am planning to start heavy equipment engineering
I love standing on the throttle of any diesel engine when I see a Toyota Prius so they can feel me "hurting the environment."🤣
Dozer and loader operators breath in most of their own carcinogens because the stack dumps 3 feet in front of their face. The only person you likely hurt is yourself.
This Komatsu D41A is a Sweet Dozer For the Age and time frame. Also very informational video On what to look for and What to keep a Eye on and What not To do i think testing and using before you buy should be standred for anything you can drive Matt thanks for sharing. 26:52 @Diesel Creek
These are all great things to look at before buying, just keep in mind the backyard mechanic / operator is probably not well equipped to do his or her own work on the machine if something does go wrong. I've got a Komatsu D53S-17 and I have to use my backhoe just to remove the hood. My son jokes that nothing weighing under 100 pounds is bolted to that thing... and you'll need very big wrenches. Probably the best tip you gave was to try it to move a little dirt. It will make cylinders squirt if they need rebuilding, the sprockets will slip if the undercarriage is badly worn and it won't push without the engine under labor as you said. The owner should be glad to let you try it if it's as good as they tell you. The buyer really need to think about the machine they are looking at and not buy on impulse or under pressure. As they say, there are plenty of fish in the sea. Great video Diesel Creek!
Incredible how it started with such ease.
She’s a good old girl!
"You shouldn't start anything if you don't know what the controls do"
Well thanks for blowing a hole through my entire philosophy, bud.
Other things I do. Do a true cold start if possible, it will tell a lot about an engine. Check all oils for any sign of water. Check engine when running for excessive blow by.
yes there were a few super basic things like that I completely forgot to mention, trying to make a video for people with limited to no knowledge on such things makes you realize how much you know and take for granted to check yourself! thanks for reminding me of those!
I really liked this. Incredibly helpful for someone who is considering heavy machinery.
You can do an oil analysis if you have time / access to the machine - it will tell the tale on engine and powertrain components. I also like to take an infared thermometer to the idler bearings / rollers to get an idea if they are running hot / have bad bearings. You can use a profile gauge on track components but most guys use outside calipers to measure the pin diameter
for wear. Good video - good insights.
Thank you all for this info I'm working on buying a dozer for my small farm
everything from heavy equipment to machine tools and overhead cranes and more i haven't seen yet that's Komatsu , amazing company
My cousin ran a dozer for nearly 35 years. Took a toll on his butt with all the cysts, hemorrhoids, and the like. Gotta love your job a lot to endure the wear and tear on your behind. He certainly loved it, plus it paid well.
Yes it can pay nicely! It does beat you up a lot more than people think too! Thanks for watching!
I grew up on a farm and have operated everything EXCEPT a dozer, so I enjoyed your video!!
Sweet! There’s plenty more stuff like that on the way!
I didn’t know it had a six way blade, it should do almost as much as the grader when it comes to cutting the ditches along your road and cone the road too!
Worked for a fleet where I could work on everything from a weed trimmer to an excavator and everything in between. Watching the boys struggle with tracks and rollers made me really happy that I was the engine (CAT & Cummins) and electrical guy. I had enough fun rebuilding engines or wiring up our custom setups and building the occasional glider truck.
That was a really cool video. I can’t ever see a reason I would need a dozer unless bought a home with acreage with the potential for brush fires. After 30 years in the fire service I’ve learned what one dozer operator can do to save property. Really enjoyed that Matt.
I ĺook 2 see if the grease fittings are taking grease and all the stuff you said and I had2 raise the fuel petal 2 kill the power and I was taught to never put the Sattal? on a dead horse and remember u can use hard faceless rod in some place jk
Thank you for this video! I bought my first dozer, a used Komatsu D31E. I used your video and it helped.
This is a GREAT video for someone looking to buy a used dozer! Good job man I love ur knowledge and continually learning new skills
Thanks for watching!!
I wouldnt have the need for one but its awesome and cool to watch you operate one tho. Thanks for sharing man.
You bet, thanks for watching!
I thought the teaching in this video was top notch ,
I learned a lot . I now know what to look for in a dozer.
I'm not sure about removing the radiator cap on a warmed up engine. The pressure can push the cap off and burn you good easy.
I had this happen to me on a truck while only running it a min or so thinking it wasn't hot but it got me. I am a mechanic but it fooled me anyways , so I don't recommend it.
That was good advise about air bubbles coming from the water.
I'm a noob and this is an outstanding introduction to how a dozer functions.
Only he doesn't know that much about Dozers, Direct drive is Clutch,
Powershift is Torque converter automatic, hydrostatic drive is hydrolic Powered and Electric drive uses high Torque Electric motors to give faster response and higher torque than Hydrolic or dirrect clutch drive.
Steering methods are, Steering Clutches, Steering Torque converters, Hydrostatic, or Differential drive.
Differntial drive is the best.
Also every dozer has two cut modes roll dirt or finnish grade, most opperators don't even know how to properly use a dozer they just use it to Finnish grade.
@@carrollsanders9376 works out great cuz neither do i! This is for newbs.
@@egomaniac247 Newbees should do the research before buying as to drive types and computers.
@@carrollsanders9376 Okay tough guy, you're right. You've shown everyone how smart you are and how terrible this video is. Great job.
@@egomaniac247 Not Trying to be a Tough Guy but you need to know more than what is in this Video before buying a dozer would suggest talking to experienced opperators, or having an experienced opperator check out the machine for you.
I found this video to be of value, a lot of knowledge shared that is useful for first time buyers not familiar with this more affordable type of dozer!. I liked the radiator cap trouble shooting tip, and the undercarriage tips. Thanks for sharing!
Great video! I'll go one further with the torque convertor stall and that is keep it stalled with engine wide open and see how long it takes for both engine & drivetrain temps to rise. We always went by the 3 minute rule. If it can take that for 3 minutes without overheating then everything is probably in good shape. Just as important is to see how fast temps drop after that test with trans. in neutral and engine wide open. Also check the final drives oil...I've also drained them and poke around in cases to see if there's any shavings or parts floating around.
Which tasks do you delegate to Eric?
This is a great video. My father sold farm equipment and owned heavy equipment most all of his life. Your points are well taken and accurate. A lot of the time at an auction he would ask the seller the condition. That's all you have to go on other than visual condition. History and records help. Filters with dates of service help. Hydraulic cylinder leaks are common. Like you stated wear parts on the undercarriage are the most common issue. He liked Cat for parts and support. Thank you for a great video and service to those wanting to purchase a dozer.
Cat has the best parts availability and dealer network for sure but you pay a lot for that most of their machines themselves I don’t see as anything special... thanks for watching!
This video cleared up a lot of question i had about track and sprocket wear...thanks for the great flick...awesome info....BB
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Dang, I've never heard a cold diesel start so fast and effortlessly.
thats exactly what i said when I looked at it before buying, it starts like that in the cold too! I dont even know if the glow plugs work because ive never used them!
@Marty's Damn Channel I have! I used to daily-drive a surplus BMY M931A2 5-ton 6x6 truck. 8.3L straight-six turbo Cummins. It would start so fast you couldn't even let the key turn back before it was running! :) Never had to use the built-in ether spray injector, and I only ever hooked up the block heater(which I added myself) when the temp was below zero. That was my first diesel-powered vehicle, and I was very pleased that it was so easy to start :)
Marty's Damn Channel that’s a KOMATSU/ Cummins for ya.
just about any diesel with direct injection as opposed to a pre-cup type, that has been sitting and has adequate battery power, will start that fast. That ain't no big deal.
@@DieselCreek good thing you haven't tried, because there aren't any with that engine.
Awesome video!! extremely informative. didnt waste anytime and you were not trying to sell anything. MOST appreciated!
Good information all the way around although it is much safer to remove the radiator cap prior to the engine getting warm to check for headgasket issues. Also he forgot to mention checking for blowbye which is important for diesels. That's fairly straight forward though. You take loosen the oil filler cap on the engine to the point that it is just sitting there and start the engine and see if it moves. Can be difficult with one person but can be done. Good idea to rev the engine up as well to see if you are getting any blowbye. I purchased a dozer last year and outside of the engine stuff went over everything else. On mine the man who was selling it son knocked a hole in the oil pan and since it didn't have an oil pan on it kind of difficult to check how it ran. I did crawl under the machine though and looked at the rollers, pins, and crankshaft on the engine so see if anything was damaged which it wasn't. Of course the price I paid reflected the issues as well. The other thing to see when looking at dozers is the ease of obtaining replacement parts. Some manufacturers are really good about keeping parts stocked for all their current and past machines and others are not so something to watch out for. My Dad has a Case 600 Terratrac which is an extremely handy little machine however it is difficult to find parts for it. In fact Dad had to get a pinion shaft made for it because he couldn't find one anywhere. He also has a IH TD-25B which we rebuilt the engine in and some parts for the engine were crazy expensive, 2k for a gasket kit.
Friend, how do you check for head gasket issues without getting the system warm?
Don't get me wrong I'm not trying to shit on you, I'm just trying to understand :)
@@sovereign126 Reread what I wrote. Said to remove radiator cap prior to warming. Also depends on the severity of the headgasket issue. If it's really bad the oil can be mixed with coolant which you can tell prior to starting. Hope that clarifies what I was saying.
Quite an excellent video. Ive little experience with equipment, none on a dozer,but may find myself needing one in the near future,if i get to purchase some land im looking at. Thanks for sharing
You don't need to pop the cap to see if it is pressurized. That little flap looking lever on the cap, is the pressure relief valve that will vent through that hose there, to the expansion tank, or overflow dump hose. No need to burn yourself. I would only check for bubbles, if I were losing coolant.
Thanks for a great video. Even though I'm not thinking of buying a dozer I really enjoyed watching and listening to your advice. Where I come from we would say that your dozer has a powershift transmission (torque converter) and 'direct drive' means you just have a manual clutch and gears .
Thanks a lot for this timeless video with very important informations! I´ve seen many of your videos during the last view weeks and I have to say: Chapeau, Matt! You´re a clever and industrious guy (the videos are not finished by themselves) and I love to see the progress in your work.
Best regards, Walter
This Dooser Komatsu D41A has no Torque Converter. The engine was connected directly with a driveshaft to the planetary gear transmission. If is slipping at the brake test, the engaged Gear Cluch is worn out and Transmission oil SAE 10 smells burnt. I have rebuilds one of this Type at 15 Years ago.
You always use the decealator pedal to change from foward to reverse or to edge into things.
Yeah exactly. Power shift doesn't mean slamming the machine from forward to reverse. That was bad information.
@@hudsonhawk0016 This one is made to be worked that way, there's a system built into the transmission and TC that negate the shock. I'd still never throw it into reverse with a full brake stop tho, why stress stuff?
i drove Bulldozers in the 90s for a company they made a lot of deep plowing and after that we plained the land with th dozer. I dont know how it is when they are new caus we had old dozers , but when they are old the Komatzu has more power , or i have to say different , you culd choke the eingine off on the Komatsu with the blade , the transmission does direkt do what you do with the stick.
greetings from east frisia
By the way, the engine runs really well and the pins and bushings on the tracks look really good. As far as the cylinder leaks, that is the nature of the beast.
Yes, like I said very minor problem. Thanks for watching!
That was well done, I enjoyed all of it, thank you. 🇦🇺
That is an awesome dozer. My dad had a couple Komatsu dozens when I was a kid. They are really good machines.
This guy is brilliant..I just discovered him on UA-cam..I know nothing mechanical but been on enough country and outback properties with abandoned machinery..property owners are intimidated by their size and expense of repairs but most who purchased properties with abandoned equipment have never tried to start or move them..this guy has shown basics to at least turn them over, batteries, air, oils etc..then take it from there...from the Hunter down under, thanks mate🇦🇺🦘🦘🦘🦘🦘🦘🦘🦘
I was 19 when I met a D9.
Loved it. I love Caterpillar.
I thought it was the most amazing machine in the world. I felt like a man.
pull the throttle back engage decelerator then start the engine can govern revs from cold
I may have missed it, and not really a matter of condition, but weight is a consideration in picking a model. Pushing force in low gear is directly proportional to weight, but so is parts cost, and then how will it be transported(and how often), pushing force(weight) per foot of blade width may be a factor for hard dirt, but blade width would be no factor for something like pushing a stump or assisting other equipment.
Smell the fluids to see if they smell burnt. If they do smell burnt, run!
You did a nice job on this video
Great tips for evaluating a dozer.
I would check pins and grease points for fresh grease. Also hydraulic fluid for milky water contamination.
All good ideas, I should have made a list before making the video as I forgot to mention some basics like that
My dad bought the exact same dozer new in 1987 .We sold it in 2012 with almost 8,000 hrs on it. Good grading dozer but it will stall out and the engine will run backwards but you won't find a better starting or running motor. Good to see an old 41A3A again, hope she last you a lifetime.
Nice!
Am I correct in thinking that dozers like this do not have "neutral steer" like many of the older dozers or many military tracked machines? They have two levers, pull back on both and go forward, push forward on both and back up, pull one back and push the other forward and one track will go forward and the other back and you can spin in in place with the pivot point centered under the machine instead of under one track or the other.
Masterclass, as always! Thank you Matt! Is true and reasonable to search for those leaks and pick a dozer that actually have them will be like a bargain in comparison with engine and or transmission leaks which also can be fixed but, as long as they're operable at the most economic price, that's one equipment we want I think.
Talking about the leaks, some are tolerable, that's why you and many keep them because they work regardless. It will look good fixed but, we'll need the time, energy and money for that.
Great info Would of never thought about checking the torque converter like that
I have a d85a-18 that hasn’t started in 6 years and started up first crank. It has 80000 hours on it.
This is The Best video that I have seen covering "what to look for in a used dozer".
I've got plans to be on bare land, and I wanted a dozer. But did know for sure what exactly to watchful of.
So Thanks.
Just need some seat time now.
My other peice of equipment I will need, an excavator...mid size for stumps and loading a sawmill.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Never buy a dozer with final drives that are not a planetary style. Part are also hard to find for older machines. Enjoyed your video.Brings back memories.
I'm currently in the market for a small dozer. I'm probably wrong but I always thought that "Direct drive" involved a master clutch lever, usually located on the left side. "Power shift" is what I believe you have where you can shift on the fly without any clutching. Torque converter drive eliminates the gear selector issue. I'm watching every video that can help me in my purchase.
You are correct but also not really what I was trying to communicate, direct drive in the sense that I am calling it means that it has a mechanical link to the drives from the engine, modern dozers are typically hydraulic drive so no clutch or torque converter make sense?
Never thought about the keys being universal. Just figured the forklifts at work were ordered the same or coincidence.
My first bye was a 1943 TD6 IHC. second was a 1953 TD6 IHC. parts are damn near impossible to find. One starts on gas and will not switch to diesel, and only turns to the right. Second one I still have not started, cleaning and gasketing carb, intake , starter and bad wireing. I travel once a month for 7 days to work on them, 450miles each way. Oh im 71 and retired, dont drimk alot and know reason to chase the ladies. Have more money in injectors that may or may not work than what i paid for number 2.
Good video, you should have mentioned opening the oil filler and checking for blow by to see if the rings/valves are still good.
yes there was a few things i forgot to mention, but that why my awesome subscribers mention them in the comments lol
@@DieselCreek I do enjoy yer vids man, not like we all don't forget something another.
I like your video, good job. You’ve had some negative ned comments, but who said one should look on UA-cam for video perfection! One thing I’d add is if the hydraulic pump is strong you can lilt the tractor with the blade. Then you can see things like the bottom rollers and leaks better.
thank you for the infos, i m a first time dozer buyer with no experience driving them, so i will take all free advice.
I am replying from Australia. Love your video and your farm. I purchased a D7G. I love it. I use it to clear trees on my farm. Look forward to more video's. Can you do one on maintenance. Thanks Geoff Bugden
Excellent information for those of us who are considering purchasing a heavy piece of equipment for the farm/lot.
Love it, check the fluids but don't worry about what they say..... I understand your comments but it just seemed everything was off.....Oh the irony somethimes.
I've run a CAT D5k a good deal. It's hydrostatic of course. There is really no comparison how productive and easy to operate that they are compared to these older machines. I'm not knocking the older machines. I love them too, it's just the joystick ones are an absolute pleasure to operate. Enjoyed the video.👍🏻👍🏻
You’ll get no argument from me there, ive run lots of D8t’s 6t’s 5&6N’s but I don’t like the K models the ones I’ve run all have the shifter you clunk back and forth and when you go to reverse they cross steer.... not a fan, I think the tiller handle is the way to go
Well I was only comparing the K model to older models like in this video.
Thanks for the video. I've taught diesel and heavy equipment at the local technical college. You have a lot of good information here.
Thank you!
Really appreciate you for the time to explain extensively on what to check for..... I'll love to buy good one D41A komatsu bulldozer
Matt. I had a brand new Komatsu dozer in 1978, but for the life of me, I can’t remember what model or numbers it was. All I can remember is it was probably equivalent to a D6. The point is, it seems it was well more advanced that your Dozer, plus it was more modern looking. Are you sure you got your year right. I’m not criticising or doubting you, I think your machine is awesome. I think I am probably doubting myself. Or, maybe here in the uk we got different models than the USA.
Good cats for reclamation, Just make sure you don't get a buildup of frozen mud on your steps then circulate the hydraulic oil moving the blade in really cold weather last guy that used it didn't clean it up good enough when I tilted the blade it broke off the end of the cylinder it was 30 below zero though, Use a ice chipper to clean mud off the rollers so much nicer than track shovel.
Another thing to check is the main frame from being rusted out
Very cool tutorial, I enjoyed it. I'm thinking about buying a mini-excavator for basement weeping tile work and making trails in the bush but who doesn't love a bulldozer.
I just did a video on excavators the same way!
Awesome video, I’m not in the market for a dozer but I still like to know what to look for.
Love old iron like this and my N-series tractor with Dearborn tip bucket.
Thanks for the tips. Looking at an old Oliver OC 4. Never messed with dozers or crawlers before. Got a relatively small driveway to put in on our property. Plus it would be fun to play with.
Right on they are capable little machines, take a while but they could get the job done.
I'm just learning and thought it was awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you young fella . Very informative video . I gleaned a lot of quality information from your video . 👍🏻
I appreciate the way that you do your videos and that you seem to reply to most comments well done!
Thank you! Appreciate that you notice all the replies haha!
Transmission should oil should be check when the engine is running
I'm in computing and somehow found your video to be entertaining and informative, not sure what my fascination was about, but your thorough explanation kept me engaged, good job, thx.
Awesome thank you!
torque converters can't slip unless it can lock up. The power is transferred via fluid, you can't slip it.
Nice crisp tone to the engine, and nearly instant ignition, always a good sign, that's a pretty nice example of an older machine. I've got a Kotmatsu D21-A7, much smaller but I work on rural projects where a bigger machine can't access. Irrigation maintenance/installation, mountain roads in tight areas, etc.
One more thing I look for.. after a machine sits for a spell (or looking at a used one), I always pop the air cleaner can to see if mice got in there and made a condo out of the filter element - more than once I've seen that, they get in through the weep drain on the bottom of the can, and worst case they get into the wiring under the dash, too. Look at the wear pattern on the hand/foot controls, see if it matches the indicated hours; same with the hour meter's appearance. Carrying a 12" straight edge to the auction to check for hydraulic cylinder ram integrity helps, see how straight and true they are. On either a straight or PAT blade, if operating you notice slight surging during the functions, might mean something as simple as low oil level, but can indicate a bad pump.
Thanks for the vid, enjoyed seeing your machine!
thanks you carry some good suggestions yourself!
I'm looking for a bulldozer, good points you made, keep up the good work.
Thanks! good luck in your search, took me a long time to find this one and it was just dumb luck!
clean those tracks . Always clean the entire thing when parking ,then grease , fill with fluids and park it on railroad ties
Nah
An electric engine oil pump to 'pre-lube' the engine before starting would save wear for long times not running.
ahh she doest usually sit that long, that was abnormal to say the least. Thanks for watching!!
One other test is remove the oil filler cap and look for the amount of blowback from the engine. Greater the blowback...major engine overhaul.
your machine need to run and push some dirt. Sitting is a bad thing for a machine. I have operated many types and sizes of bulldozers. My favorite I ever had was an Allis-Chalmer. I can't remember the number of the machine but it was the size of a Cat D-7. I had the steering clutches on the console as yours does. I will say it was much smoother than yours. These clutch levers are not for quick turning but slow smooth turns while pushing dirt. If you want to make a quick turn just tap the brake left or right to make that sharp turn. Also, the decelebrator is also used for engine control whole pushing to change speed as required. It is setup this way so when pushing, you don't have to keep your foot on the pedal like a car. This keep you from getting tired and it also keep the engine from changing rpms caused by rough terrain. One more thing. I NEVER change gears on any machine without first lowering the rpms of the engine. NEVER switch from forward to reverse without decelerating the engine. Being a professional operator depends on how smooth you are in the seat.
HD-16 great machine
The D31 & D 41 never had a decelerator as standard, Komatsus HYdroshift as they called was made to go fwd/rev at full revs they had a built in damper to eliminate shock loads in the driveline. Decelerator was an optional extra, I drove a new D 4D power shift that came with no decelerator from new, it was later fitted with a decel pedal as an extra and then it was a dog of a machine, 2 brake pedals and 2 decel pedals required fancy foot work to keep on top of it.
First Thing I do before I start any equipment that I am unfamiliar with is, figure out how to stop it.
thats a good plan as well!
THE END OR CORNER CUTTING EDGES ARE USABLE YOU TURN THEM OVER AND PUT THE LEFT ON THE RIGHT AND THE RIGHT ON THE LEFT , ALL INFO IS GOOD
That’s not how that works lol they can not be re used there isn’t a fresh side to flip to
Some great information! Thanks for sharing!
I have no want or no need for a bulldozer but a very interesting video. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Great vid thanks! Im looking to clear 20 acres of alders and weed trees.Dunno what I need an excavator or a
dozer. Not sure whats cheaper to run tho. any tips? thx
Personal experience, a dozer is a lot more mobile. You could use an excavator, but that will be slow going for that sort of work. Both will cost about the same in upkeep per hour of service, assuming relatively similar size. Fuel is almost always the biggest expense over the life of the machine.
I’ve cleared some decent sized trees before with a backhoe before, sometimes technique is more effective than just pure raw power. Anything tracked will be more expensive to run because of all the moving parts, but excavators have more intricate parts(with the ability to spin around and all.) If you’re clearing mostly brush though you should probably want something for pushing/moving junk out of your way and it’s easier to do that with a front loader or dozer. But if you don’t need lots of power id go with a backhoe, a jack of all trades. Also To remove trees with a hoe just scrape into the ground 6 inches on the front and sides to break the load bearing roots then just push over the tree. Then just scratch the dirt off the rest of the roots.
Thank you for sharing makes me want to get my 3444 International resurrected and start using again. Used to have JD2010's with 6 way and ripper bar. It was a fun part of life. But like you said it's expensive to own and real easy to rent new equipment now. Us excavators a lot more than hoe's and only a few times a year. Keep videos coming I really enjoyed. Greg H.
Thanks for watching!!