Thank you. I replaced my purge valve which did not solve my P0455 problem. Replaced the vent solenoid and canister, the P0455 went away but a P0449 came in. I fiddled with the electrical connection and a few days later after doing nothing else the code/engine light cleared itself. Sometimes waiting has an effect. It might re-learn something or the connector jogged into place while driving. I bought the vent canister with an adaptor for the electrical connection and a new hose and a new metal mount. All good investments. The hose going to the gas tank just pulls out with some assistance with a screw driver. The old vent canister had 5 places where it was in-leaking (same locations as you showed), and the valve was failed open anyway (particulate jammed it). A gasoline smell went away after replacing it and the vehicle accelerated more quickly almost immediately. If you replace a part, and its not the part needing replaced, just leave it because you are ahead of the component failure curve. Waiting a few days might fix your code for the non-serious ones like this.
You’re a lifesaver!!!!!! I just bought an 08 Chevy Impala and was so worried it would be an insane part to replace, you just proved it won’t be that difficult. THANK YOU!!
Thanks for the video I’ve been trying to fix this problem for 3yrs and almost sold my car for it! And I refused to give the shop or any alley mechanic more money for something they supposedly fixed the first time. Too many money hungry people out here taking from the poor. Now I fix on my own car!
As an electronic/electrical engineer, I couldn't agree more! Most people don't realize the difference between current and voltage. See Ohm's law. If that wire is chuffed or cut, and there's just enough connection to keep the circuit, you are still going to have applied voltage (electromotive force), but as soon as the resistance increases--for example, a load--thats going to create a too much current for that small amount of wire guage to handle. Obviously, this is a very simplistic explanation.
thank you for this video. my question is what voltage measurement should we be getting on the white control wire when testing with the valve unplugged?
I really appreciate that your words are directly related to the purpose of the video. So many guys have way too much irrelevant chatter. I have an 08 Impala with that code. I learned something but I think I got some dirt in my eyes. Just joking. Thank you.
I like the video thank you very much I don't know if you'll get the message it's 2 years old I have a 2009 Chevy Impala 3.5 the engine light never came on but when I took off the gas cap one time a whole bunch of vapor and air pressure with coming out a lot and it was coming up with all kinds of codes so I put that vent canister in today and it's saying gas tank fuel pressure I cleared it there's like 15 codes on there on there but it runs and drives fine also change the purge valve gas cap cabin air filter outside air filter all the maintenance well taken care of has less than a hundred thousand miles on it so no codes came back on so far the check engine light never came on and I know between 2006 and 2009 the ABS traction control wiring harness I put brand new ones on I thought it was the hub bearing it wasn't so no ABS light or traction control light I did a whole bunch of stuff to it even replaced all three of them clicking noise when you turn on the air conditioning whatever the one on the driver side was the worst but everything works thank you that was a good heads up
My 08 impala has been a great car for the most part. I have owned mine for years and havent had any major.issues...however, I just hit 200k miles and things are seeming to go wrong, one after another. Including this exact issue. Not to mention the ubiquitous known "power door lock" issue. Its.funny, my check engine light is intermittent, but everyime i get fuel, the pump constantly shuts off. This will hopefully be the solution. Thanks!
I’ve found if you “top off the fuel” it’ll turn this code every time. I’m not suggesting it’s your exact reason but it’s every time you fuel I’d pay attention to it
I have P0449. Replaced vent valve. Replaced gas cap. Can command vent on and off. Tested entire system to hold vacuum. Seems to hold. Seems ECM is not commanding vent closed. Driving, purge valve will go to 100%. Any help appreciated.
i got two P0449 codes 1)EVAP system vent valve control circuit/open 2)evaporative emission(evap) vent solenoid valve control does this mean its just the circuit or both? Can it also be the gas cap or would the reader would have said that? if you can give me your thoughts on this i would greatly appreciate it THANKYOU NEW SUBSCRIBER
I've been having the hardest time trying to get that sensor off, no matter how much I try it won't come out even with wd 40. Any ideas of how I can fix this?
@@garrettritchie-k2m I used a Battery charger and jumper leads to cannister leads w/o plug attach to see if the cannister made a noise telling me it was opening and working.
What are the symptoms of this? This is the only code I have and my car surges a little at idle and the all the lights inside and out will dim and brighten while driving and parked
Aww that stinks! Find a junkyard nearby and go snag the connector and wire off a junkyard car. Make sure to cut the wire long enough to reattach onto what’s left of yours.
If you don’t have a code reader or scan tool to clear it, it will take a couple drive cycles. Once the ECM doesn’t detect the issue on two drive cycles, it will turn the light off.
so we changed this is what my grandpa sent me “ we put a computer in the car today at work was able to shut the check engine light off we turn the car off I started it with the remote it ran for 20 seconds and then shut off and the check engine light came back on so we did the computer thing again and it said done but the check engine light is still on I’m hoping it will reset itself” does this just mean it needs to be driven a little for it to go off?
Your last words on this video save my life cuz I changed the whole thing and the light was still on, now I just have to reset it 😎🤙
Thank you. I replaced my purge valve which did not solve my P0455 problem. Replaced the vent solenoid and canister, the P0455 went away but a P0449 came in. I fiddled with the electrical connection and a few days later after doing nothing else the code/engine light cleared itself. Sometimes waiting has an effect. It might re-learn something or the connector jogged into place while driving.
I bought the vent canister with an adaptor for the electrical connection and a new hose and a new metal mount. All good investments. The hose going to the gas tank just pulls out with some assistance with a screw driver. The old vent canister had 5 places where it was in-leaking (same locations as you showed), and the valve was failed open anyway (particulate jammed it). A gasoline smell went away after replacing it and the vehicle accelerated more quickly almost immediately.
If you replace a part, and its not the part needing replaced, just leave it because you are ahead of the component failure curve. Waiting a few days might fix your code for the non-serious ones like this.
You’re a lifesaver!!!!!! I just bought an 08 Chevy Impala and was so worried it would be an insane part to replace, you just proved it won’t be that difficult. THANK YOU!!
Terrific video. I love it when the complete process, including testing, is shown start to finish and this video does exactly that. Nice job!!
Thanks for the video I’ve been trying to fix this problem for 3yrs and almost sold my car for it! And I refused to give the shop or any alley mechanic more money for something they supposedly fixed the first time. Too many money hungry people out here taking from the poor. Now I fix on my own car!
excellent,efficient diagnostic process! And I like how you stressed testing the circuit with a load, I do the same with my apprentices.
As an electronic/electrical engineer, I couldn't agree more! Most people don't realize the difference between current and voltage. See Ohm's law. If that wire is chuffed or cut, and there's just enough connection to keep the circuit, you are still going to have applied voltage (electromotive force), but as soon as the resistance increases--for example, a load--thats going to create a too much current for that small amount of wire guage to handle. Obviously, this is a very simplistic explanation.
Awesome video! Love the humor along the way, thanks.
Thanks!
thank you for this video. my question is what voltage measurement should we be getting on the white control wire when testing with the valve unplugged?
Awesome video, can't get any easier to diagnose and check for power and ground . Thanks. P.s. hello from Connecticut
I have been watching your vids. And learning a lot. Thank u!!
Thanks!
Great job I really liked that you stated you cut the tube to make it easier. The bolt is a 6 mm bolt that has a 10 mm head. But very nice video.
Thanks
👍🏼 I like your tutorial, thanks. and thanks for the links for the tools used 🤩
I'm changing mine now and this is great,don't have a tester but I'm hoping this will fix.my problem, ty
I really appreciate that your words are directly related to the purpose of the video. So many guys have way too much irrelevant chatter. I have an 08 Impala with that code. I learned something but I think I got some dirt in my eyes. Just joking. Thank you.
Thanks for the positive feedback! I try to stay in point in my videos. I know what you mean about the unnecessary chatter!
I like the video thank you very much I don't know if you'll get the message it's 2 years old I have a 2009 Chevy Impala 3.5 the engine light never came on but when I took off the gas cap one time a whole bunch of vapor and air pressure with coming out a lot and it was coming up with all kinds of codes so I put that vent canister in today and it's saying gas tank fuel pressure I cleared it there's like 15 codes on there on there but it runs and drives fine also change the purge valve gas cap cabin air filter outside air filter all the maintenance well taken care of has less than a hundred thousand miles on it so no codes came back on so far the check engine light never came on and I know between 2006 and 2009 the ABS traction control wiring harness I put brand new ones on I thought it was the hub bearing it wasn't so no ABS light or traction control light I did a whole bunch of stuff to it even replaced all three of them clicking noise when you turn on the air conditioning whatever the one on the driver side was the worst but everything works thank you that was a good heads up
My 08 impala has been a great car for the most part. I have owned mine for years and havent had any major.issues...however, I just hit 200k miles and things are seeming to go wrong, one after another. Including this exact issue.
Not to mention the ubiquitous known "power door lock" issue.
Its.funny, my check engine light is intermittent, but everyime i get fuel, the pump constantly shuts off.
This will hopefully be the solution.
Thanks!
I’ve found if you “top off the fuel” it’ll turn this code every time. I’m not suggesting it’s your exact reason but it’s every time you fuel I’d pay attention to it
Appreciate the video. I have a rusty bolt too and need to get a bolt extractor kit. Why not replace the rusty bolt once off?
I'm going to invest in a scanner 👍🏾 .
Your video picture shows PO446 fixed ? When you click to it you talk about fixing PO449 ?
very good video and well explained,what about the scanner what brand is it,Thank
The scanner is a Launch X431pro. It's linked in the video description I believe..
I wanted to ask if the engine harness was shortened and someone messed with up does it caused malfunctioning to the vent canister working ?
I have P0449. Replaced vent valve. Replaced gas cap. Can command vent on and off. Tested entire system to hold vacuum. Seems to hold. Seems ECM is not commanding vent closed. Driving, purge valve will go to 100%. Any help appreciated.
helped me learn how to fix my car
i got two P0449 codes
1)EVAP system vent valve control circuit/open
2)evaporative emission(evap) vent solenoid valve control
does this mean its just the circuit or both? Can it also be the gas cap or would the reader would have said that?
if you can give me your thoughts on this i would greatly appreciate it THANKYOU NEW SUBSCRIBER
I've been having the hardest time trying to get that sensor off, no matter how much I try it won't come out even with wd 40. Any ideas of how I can fix this?
I’m reading 0v on my connector, there was a flood in my area a while back and I’m thinking a fuse got blown. Do you know which fuse this is related to
Thanks very informative video
Thanks!
would like to know what scan tool u use, it looked like the think tool, looking for a budget bidirectional scanner
I replaced the solenoid valve, and the engine is still on, and I drive it for two days and still engine light.
same , literally just did mine 15 mins ago and no change
Did you reset it?
You can check cannister by jumping ground to back of attached connector to hear it click>>>>
Could you explain this to me please lol
@@garrettritchie-k2m I used a Battery charger and jumper leads to cannister leads w/o plug attach to see if the cannister made a noise telling me it was opening and working.
@ makes sense I gotcha now. I have the same p0449 code
This would be the same with the 08 ss correct ??
Awesome video
What are the symptoms of this? This is the only code I have and my car surges a little at idle and the all the lights inside and out will dim and brighten while driving and parked
SAME
What was the problem?
@@jamesking6272 never found out traded the car for ram lol
How much was the part?
I felt like the rust was falling on me
I need to change mine out ,but my plug was ripped out, when I had a blow out and I can't tell where it was attached to car
Aww that stinks! Find a junkyard nearby and go snag the connector and wire off a junkyard car. Make sure to cut the wire long enough to reattach onto what’s left of yours.
@@Tomsfoolery. I found it it's coming out from the trunk
will the engine light go right off or will it go off later
If you don’t have a code reader or scan tool to clear it, it will take a couple drive cycles. Once the ECM doesn’t detect the issue on two drive cycles, it will turn the light off.
so we changed this is what my grandpa sent me “ we put a computer in the car today at work was able to shut the check engine light off we turn the car off I started it with the remote it ran for 20 seconds and then shut off and the check engine light came back on so we did the computer thing again and it said done but the check engine light is still on I’m hoping it will reset itself” does this just mean it needs to be driven a little for it to go off?
What is Code p0446?
Dude sounds like Will Farrell
It’s very helpful thank you
You're welcome!