You know I pulled the spec of the site, I might have done the wrong version. I had lamnia.com watch too and they missed that too. Thanks for the catch! Blessings, the ocd hunter.
I wouldn't know but I suspect that once you get through the coating on the 90° edges on the back of the blade, all those tasks you tried to do become much easier.
I also was impressed either the sheath… they thought this out… love my M95! Great vid…. If you do More…. As a suggestion only no criticism… cut your background Music out…. It’s a bit annoying… most of us knife folks don’t care for it. Thanks again.
They are good for what they are I own both with the cerakote finish not the Teflon If yours are the Teflon it would explain the ferro rod issue Are they good for Bushcraft? There are better Hunting? There are better Combat? There are better Better than Mora? They certainly are more expensive but you get more on average with these blades If you just want a cheap but effective bushcraft blade - Mora Hunting - pick out something application purposed Combat - better even cheaper options Great versatile blade? Cold steel SRK Still, I like these particularly the M-07 and would be able to Make use of it under a variety of scenarios My go to blades, personally are Willam Collins or LT Wright ✌️🇺🇸
If sharpened properly, it would have gone through the skin of that deer, like if it was nothing. Touching a factory edge on a new knife, does nothing at all. All new mass produced knives, have to be sharpened and in most cases reprofiled to, to give the knife a sharp edge or the edge that fits your needs. This knife, has the best main bevel geometry, on any othe saber grind blade I've seen.(that's why it chops that good, for it's size and weight).That means, that if sharpened, it can cut/slice, literally like razor, and as good if not better, than most hunting knives. Also, for a steel to show it's true potential and thus how good it can perform, the blade must have been sharpened, for at least 3 to 4 full sharpening sessions. Hope this helps.
The Peltonen knives are factory sharpened to a 25° edge (I confirmed this from the company), they deem that angle to be the best average performer in both heavy and delicate tasks with the 80CrV2 steel. Usually these kind of knives have a 22° or 23° angle, so sharpening an M95/M07 to these angles will take a while, if that's what the owner is used to doing. I use the Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener for field maintenance of these knives, it helps bring back the 25° edge very easily. I have a few Peltonen knives and they are super sharp (shave, paper cut etc) both right out of the box and after stropping or a sharpening session. The ones I use the most keep their edge with a ceramic and a strop for a long time. You only need the diamond plate after a chip has formed from heavy hitting or a grain of sand in the wood to be batoned.
@@max_ljv Thank you for leting me know! 25 isn't a balanced edge though. That's the standard for 20 degrees.TRC Mille Cuori, which comes with WAY harder steel (same knife category though),is set at 19 degrees from the "factory"! 25 degrees, is what I put to my chopers! That's wierd though, because on videos I've seen these knives, they cut like they have a less than 18 degrees. My guess, is they they got a slicier main bevel geometry, to be able to keep the edge tough like a tank, with the 25 degrees they put,without sacrificing the overall slicing ability!!!
@@greekveteran2715 Yes; the Sabre grind is 7.5 degrees which makes it very slicy 👍 and the 25° secondary bevel is quite small, just to give it strength. That's good for general military conscript use in the wilderness. Usually Puukko style knives have a 10 degree main bevel, either with or without a micro bevel (usually 22 or 23° here in Finland). "True scandi" knives without a secondary bevel (or with a scandivex) are nice but require a super steel that costs a hunderd bucks more. One example of the knives with 80CrV2 not-super steel are the Terävä knives that have a 10° main bevel and 23° secondary bevel, and about the same price point as the Peltonen. (The Terävä Skramas have a 34° secondary bevel for whacking into wooden things.) The Teräväs feel a lot bulkier in use: you'll want to use them to whack tree branches, while with the Peltonen you'll want to cut the branch cleanly.
@@max_ljv Thanks but why you brought Scandi grinds to the table? These are a completely different kind of grind. As for the micro bevels, that's only a thing on the very cheap mass produced knives, that the factories put, to create a sharp edge faster and with less cost. Micro bevels do not offer anything, other than making a knife a poor performer on any task.. They DO NOT offer edge stability, because it's still a flat V edge bevel.What offers edge stability, is a slight convex geometry. Anyway, in any case, any new knife ,must be sharpened properly, before it's used. As for the steel, to show it's abilitites, it has to be sharpened for at least 2 to 3 times (full sharpening sessions I mean) to show what edge retention and what edge stability it can provide. (That's why many people, complain that their knive's edges chip or roll easily, it's usually,because they use their knives, with the poor facory edges, that neither have a proper edge, nor have the "burnt" steel removed. As for the Scandi grinds, these provide the least edge stability and edge retention, compared to any other type of grind, where the Saber grind on Pentlonen knives, provide the most edge stability,so it's the opposite, to a scandi.Sorry for the long message! I just hate microbevels and the lies of the industry, that it's a "good feature.. well, it's the worst from any point of view, that's why only cheap knives come with it.
The only downside of this knife is a short guard. If it would be a little long, it could be more safe for other tasks other than that the knife is great
I prefer the M07 as it is a more useable length, while the M95 is more of a stabbing length. Neither are good choppers because the blade is not wide and a lot of the weight in in the hard rubber handle. The M95 only has the edge over the M07 when it comes to batoning, but I find many UA-camrs baton a much thicker piece of wood than needed. You don't need a thick log to get enough dry inner wood to have a fire hot enough to dry out the wet stuff.
80crv2 at 58-59 hrc ...super tough and easy to sharpen, better edge retention than plain carbon steels such as 1095 at similar hardness... main drawback is it rusts otherwise a great steel for an bushcraft/survival knife.
I know you are an experienced knife handler, BUT , that clip of you cutting towards yourself, along your outstretched arm, was positively dangerous with such a sharp knife !
I respectfully disagree - a draw cut is designed to be safe. As you draw the knife - your fist is designed to run into your chest -so if for some reason I did slip with the blade - all that would happen is I would basically punch myself with the bottom of my fist. And my out stretched arm is much lover than it looks on video. Plus with a draw cut it is a very controlled motion. I appreciate your concern for safety though! And I could see if someone did incorrectly they could have an issue. Knife safety is very important. And thanks for watching and commenting. Blessings the ocd hunter😮
@@TheOCDHunter Thank you for such a quick reply. My concern is not so much for yourself , as you are a really great knife handler. What would concern me more would be a young or unexperienced person trying to copy you and causing themseves harm because they are not as competent as you are. "I saw a guy on Utube do it just like this" sort of thing. Happy Trails.
@@clivedunning4317yep you are totally right about experience makes a difference. I’m glad you commented so it will maybe it will help out some people!!!!!! Blessings!
They do offer both of those with cerakote, but it appears yours are the standard models with the Teflon (PTFE)blade coating.
You know I pulled the spec of the site, I might have done the wrong version. I had lamnia.com watch too and they missed that too. Thanks for the catch! Blessings, the ocd hunter.
@@TheOCDHunter I have the M95 standard Teflon coating and I’m really impressed with it.
@@ixlr8tyes I was impressed too. Not my favorite knife but definitely dependable!
I agree.
@@TheOCDHunterWhat is your favorite? And what would you choose Garberg or this one?
Thank you for the review!
I'm always happy to see a thoroughly worn knife in a review 😄👍
Thx for watching and taking time to comment! Blessings the ocd hunter.
Thanks for putting all the time into this review. Very helpful!
I wouldn't know but I suspect that once you get through the coating on the 90° edges on the back of the blade, all those tasks you tried to do become much easier.
thanks great review of actual use
I also was impressed either the sheath… they thought this out… love my M95! Great vid…. If you do
More…. As a suggestion only no criticism… cut your background Music out…. It’s a bit annoying… most of us knife folks don’t care for it. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. Are these knives full or partial tang?
Full tang ✌️
well done review!...what brand knife sharpener are you using at 12:05...thanks!...MTwoods
www.amazon.com/dp/B0055DL5NI/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_3DBHD4DDD9ZZHJP7Y1QA?linkCode=ml2&tag=theocdhunte07-20
Very nice Review. Thank you very much 😊
Thank you for watching! And commenting, blessings the ocd hunter
None of those are cerakoted, both are the teflon version :)
Would you please compare one of these beauties with swisstech stahlern?
Don’t currently have one of those, but I’ll look at getting one and compare. Thanks for watching, blessings the ocd hunter.
They are good for what they are
I own both with the cerakote finish not the Teflon
If yours are the Teflon it would explain the ferro rod issue
Are they good for
Bushcraft? There are better
Hunting? There are better
Combat? There are better
Better than Mora?
They certainly are more expensive but you get more on average with these blades
If you just want a cheap but effective bushcraft blade - Mora
Hunting - pick out something application purposed
Combat - better even cheaper options
Great versatile blade?
Cold steel SRK
Still, I like these particularly the M-07 and would be able to
Make use of it under a variety of scenarios
My go to blades, personally are Willam Collins or LT Wright ✌️🇺🇸
If sharpened properly, it would have gone through the skin of that deer, like if it was nothing. Touching a factory edge on a new knife, does nothing at all. All new mass produced knives, have to be sharpened and in most cases reprofiled to, to give the knife a sharp edge or the edge that fits your needs. This knife, has the best main bevel geometry, on any othe saber grind blade I've seen.(that's why it chops that good, for it's size and weight).That means, that if sharpened, it can cut/slice, literally like razor, and as good if not better, than most hunting knives.
Also, for a steel to show it's true potential and thus how good it can perform, the blade must have been sharpened, for at least 3 to 4 full sharpening sessions. Hope this helps.
Thx for watching and commenting blessings the ocd hunter
The Peltonen knives are factory sharpened to a 25° edge (I confirmed this from the company), they deem that angle to be the best average performer in both heavy and delicate tasks with the 80CrV2 steel. Usually these kind of knives have a 22° or 23° angle, so sharpening an M95/M07 to these angles will take a while, if that's what the owner is used to doing.
I use the Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener for field maintenance of these knives, it helps bring back the 25° edge very easily.
I have a few Peltonen knives and they are super sharp (shave, paper cut etc) both right out of the box and after stropping or a sharpening session. The ones I use the most keep their edge with a ceramic and a strop for a long time. You only need the diamond plate after a chip has formed from heavy hitting or a grain of sand in the wood to be batoned.
@@max_ljv Thank you for leting me know! 25 isn't a balanced edge though. That's the standard for 20 degrees.TRC Mille Cuori, which comes with WAY harder steel (same knife category though),is set at 19 degrees from the "factory"! 25 degrees, is what I put to my chopers! That's wierd though, because on videos I've seen these knives, they cut like they have a less than 18 degrees. My guess, is they they got a slicier main bevel geometry, to be able to keep the edge tough like a tank, with the 25 degrees they put,without sacrificing the overall slicing ability!!!
@@greekveteran2715 Yes; the Sabre grind is 7.5 degrees which makes it very slicy 👍 and the 25° secondary bevel is quite small, just to give it strength. That's good for general military conscript use in the wilderness.
Usually Puukko style knives have a 10 degree main bevel, either with or without a micro bevel (usually 22 or 23° here in Finland). "True scandi" knives without a secondary bevel (or with a scandivex) are nice but require a super steel that costs a hunderd bucks more. One example of the knives with 80CrV2 not-super steel are the Terävä knives that have a 10° main bevel and 23° secondary bevel, and about the same price point as the Peltonen. (The Terävä Skramas have a 34° secondary bevel for whacking into wooden things.) The Teräväs feel a lot bulkier in use: you'll want to use them to whack tree branches, while with the Peltonen you'll want to cut the branch cleanly.
@@max_ljv Thanks but why you brought Scandi grinds to the table? These are a completely different kind of grind. As for the micro bevels, that's only a thing on the very cheap mass produced knives, that the factories put, to create a sharp edge faster and with less cost. Micro bevels do not offer anything, other than making a knife a poor performer on any task.. They DO NOT offer edge stability, because it's still a flat V edge bevel.What offers edge stability, is a slight convex geometry. Anyway, in any case, any new knife ,must be sharpened properly, before it's used. As for the steel, to show it's abilitites, it has to be sharpened for at least 2 to 3 times (full sharpening sessions I mean) to show what edge retention and what edge stability it can provide. (That's why many people, complain that their knive's edges chip or roll easily, it's usually,because they use their knives, with the poor facory edges, that neither have a proper edge, nor have the "burnt" steel removed. As for the Scandi grinds, these provide the least edge stability and edge retention, compared to any other type of grind, where the Saber grind on Pentlonen knives, provide the most edge stability,so it's the opposite, to a scandi.Sorry for the long message! I just hate microbevels and the lies of the industry, that it's a "good feature.. well, it's the worst from any point of view, that's why only cheap knives come with it.
The only downside of this knife is a short guard. If it would be a little long, it could be more safe for other tasks other than that the knife is great
I prefer the M07 as it is a more useable length, while the M95 is more of a stabbing length. Neither are good choppers because the blade is not wide and a lot of the weight in in the hard rubber handle. The M95 only has the edge over the M07 when it comes to batoning, but I find many UA-camrs baton a much thicker piece of wood than needed. You don't need a thick log to get enough dry inner wood to have a fire hot enough to dry out the wet stuff.
Not for the price. Steel is not so good.
80crv2 at 58-59 hrc ...super tough and easy to sharpen, better edge retention than plain carbon steels such as 1095 at similar hardness... main drawback is it rusts otherwise a great steel for an bushcraft/survival knife.
I know you are an experienced knife handler, BUT , that clip of you cutting towards yourself, along your outstretched arm, was positively dangerous with such a sharp knife !
I respectfully disagree - a draw cut is designed to be safe. As you draw the knife - your fist is designed to run into your chest -so if for some reason I did slip with the blade - all that would happen is I would basically punch myself with the bottom of my fist.
And my out stretched arm is much lover than it looks on video.
Plus with a draw cut it is a very controlled motion.
I appreciate your concern for safety though! And I could see if someone did incorrectly they could have an issue. Knife safety is very important. And thanks for watching and commenting. Blessings the ocd hunter😮
@@TheOCDHunter Thank you for such a quick reply. My concern is not so much for yourself , as you are a really great knife handler. What would concern me more would be a young or unexperienced person trying to copy you and causing themseves harm because they are not as competent as you are. "I saw a guy on Utube do it just like this" sort of thing. Happy Trails.
@@clivedunning4317yep you are totally right about experience makes a difference. I’m glad you commented so it will maybe it will help out some people!!!!!! Blessings!