BEST ADVISE! Blue is the Sky, Green is "Go Forward".. best way to ever remember this, and you've taught me a valuable lesson here. Red, is Right, meaning X Axis, with Arrow pointing towards right travel.. epic. Appreciate it. I'm an electronic engineer, rapid learning CAD/CAM/CNC design and picked the most intricate first design.. so, glad you all don't have to hear my relentless cussing the next few days.
This is just what I was looking for! I've been using Fusion 360 for 3D prints so I can model objects pretty well, but CAM is a real challenge for me now that I have a CNC router. Thanks for being so generous with your time and knowledge. People like you make the world a better place.
This is the first video I watched for CAM-ing in Fusion 6 months ago, I still come back to it from time to time to refresh my CAM knowledge, thank you!
Great video. We used it in training today. Quick tip: When scrubbing in simulation, you don't actually have to grab the handle at the bottom. You can click and drag left and right anywhere in the screen for finer control.
Tonight marks the night I got Fusion 360 to post and run a cut on my Novakon. I have been using Bobcad V22 for everything and its mostly just 2D so this is AWESOME! Thank you so much I could have never gotten to this point without you!
I've been using Fusion 360 for a while, but hoped to pick up something from this, and I did! I recently started using chamfers to reduce hand cleanup, and this was good info on how to make a smaller chamfer. Just what I needed. Thanks!
Great stuff, very useful as I am transitioning from ZW CAM to Fusion, seeing how much more automated Fusion is in comparison. Takes a bit of getting used to, and trusting the software to do the right thing! Impressed so far, but I need more practice, so I will def be watching and listening to all of your videos! Thanks for your efforts, very much appreciated!
Thank you, Jon. I've been waiting for this in-depth series of videos. Getting ready to go into my second year of college where we are going to focus on CNC machining and CAM. Awesome, looking forward to the next video.
Thanks for going back to the beginning with the CAM, been trying to pick this up a bit and it's good to have something from the ground up, but the bits and pieces have been interesting too!
Just awesome information for us beginners.. and related in a way that is understandable. Keep these videos coming I watch them every saturday morning...my time :)
First tutorial that actually helped me and I loved it :) Straight to practice and it works for me :))) 1000 thanks to you for doing this!!! Subscribed! Coming from 3D printing environment, you really helped me understand the difference in these two concepts. This will help me a lot now.
Great video thanks for going slow. How about a video on how to flip a part to finish machining a deep hole, like when you did the silencer. Video on soft jaws too. Keep up the great video, I'm joining Patrion, your worth it...Dave
hey great video. I know next time you're going to talk about flipping and soft jaws. could you also give us some strategies for flipping without making a custom fixture?
well I am pretty new to cam so several things, 1st was the helical lead in and seeing how that works, 2nd and the biggest thing I learned was that adaptive is only for roughing, other then that just little things.
Also something I would love to see a vid about is how to duplicate an item like a knife scale on a fixture. especially since I spent the lat 2 hours failing at trying to get it work.
Hey John another great job on the video. Quick question at our shop we use master cam for all of our cam work can you tell me or do you know some of the benefits to fusion that master cam dosnt have I watch all your stuff and to me fusion seems way more simple and easier to use. Anxious to hear your feedback thanks a million!!!!
the software seems to work very well on your computer. would you mind sharing the stats? processor, ram, graphics card and anything else you think is pertinent?
On that contouring what if the length of cut of your end mill isn't enough to do those surfaces in one pass? This was a really good video on this topic.
Can set multiple depths of cut in I think the linking tab so it'll repeat the profile and step down what you specify. Say .200 each pass till it reaches the final depth you set in the height tab
Hi John, I am building a small CNC machine similar to the one you built some while ago, I am using to drill PCB,s I know I can use Eagle to generate G-Code from a design BUT if I want to drill from a Photograph i.e Negative or Positive of the PCB using a Webcam I cannot find a program to record the positions of the holes so I can then make a G-Code file for Mach3, Can you help in any way.....John M I live in UK P.S Your a brilliant teacher love your videos
He didn't go over selecting a WCS (work coordinate system) much But when you first setup the part, the stock and such, you can move the WCS and orient it however you'd like. In this part example all yo d have to do is switch the X and Y and the part would be oriented sideways.
It defaults to a value of stock to leave on the walls. But you can always adjust it to whatever you want. You could even set it to leave 0 if you like. So you do have to give it a value, but it doesn't force you to have to leave stock on if you don't want it to
Good to show 2D since it can be used on a prototrak style machine. Which may be a more common machine people here have rather than a tormach. Every operation here could be done on a Bridgeport prototrak. Whereas a 3D adaptive requires a full 3axis machine. But ya. I would have 3D adaptive cut this part as well. But for the sake of teaching and simplicity. I think demonstrating 2D only paths was the right call.
+Scott Moyse I'd be interested in seeing a helical entry into that center bore done on a prototrak with a manual Z... That and I'd imagine going back and forth on the quill for the lift up on the back feed move would be rather tiresome... Sure I suppose you could set the lift up to zero and only use plunge entry moves. But I think the 2.5 d approach here would be much more efficient and less annoying to the operator. Though I do know some operators I would enjoy annoying...
+Occams Sawzall not all Prototraks have manual Z's... and the combination of the 3 x 2D Adaptive tool paths can be created easily with 3D Adaptive in only a few clicks.
Last week I saw a video where you had some 7in 6061(I think)- have you ever thought about getting it roughed out on a manual lathe. and then doing the fine details on the tormach? I don't kow how often you do that type of stuff or if it is even worth saving tormach hours vs the extra time spent on the lathe. Just seems like a lot of material to remove with CNC. With the part in this video I have the same sort of question, why not use that band saw to quickly remove the sides of a bunch of "Bodies" rather than all that CNC work? I'm guessing that you've thought it out, but use in case you didn't, I had to bring it up. I don't do much on my manual lathe, but I always try to get the bulk of material removed before I start making the chips. I don't know where the break even point is, but watching the Tormach cut out the Porsche from that big block made me want to put it on the band saw for you and then get 1/2 the CNC time I saved you for ME! I'm sure there is a point where it make sense, just don't know first hand. I don't know if you have ever tried them, but those Milwaukee Steel Hawgs will cut a 2in hole in a 1in steel plate in about a minute. That's just over 3ci of steel. They are pretty cheap too don't know if it would be worth your time to fit a couple to your tool bin. I tap them with 3/4 16 and screw them on to an MT3 that I put the same threads on.
His stock size on the width seemed a bit excessive. But I suspect it was because that's just what he has on hand for stock. . Removing that material on a CNC is a matter of less than a minute with the shear hog. Not much slower than trying to bandsaw it off than skimming the edges so they sit flat against the vise jaws. The extruded stock edges are generally straight and flat enough to throw in a vise without issue. Now for op 2 I would band saw off as much of the excess stock as I could then soft jaw the part and just take the back off. Also... I don't know if he has a vertical bandsaw in the shop....I can't actually recall a video seeing him use one...
+Occams Sawzall I saw what looked like a vertical in the middle of the hummer garage about 75% of the way in. It's much more of a no brainer when you are manual, but I figure there is a point where it makes sense for CNC too- just don't know where that point is.
+Jim Wilson I honestly rarely bandsaw things and will opt to take off as much as reasonable in the mill. Most CNC's, even a tormach, will be able to clear out stock faster than even chunking it off in a bandsaw. Really the only time I do is for OP2 if there's a lot of excess stock hanging outside the outer profile of the part. Even then I may just do a single profile around the outer perimeter and drop the slugs right off in the mill. Hell on the 5 axis I can do most parts in a single op.
That was a real good video a lot of detail 👍👍 by the way when I like the videos by hitting the like the number of likes doesn't increase is that normal???
I use GibbsCAM at work and it's great for letting you pick curves and places to stop and start at. is there a way to half chamfer something? or pick the start and stopping point if you don't want to chamfer the whole thing?
You can do partial lines, however there is no way to adjust the start and stop position for chamfer milling. You can with contour, but not chamfer. Development oversight is all I can think.
+NYC CNC actually that's not true. You in fact can. Under Geometry tab > tangential extension you can set that to a negative value and it will reduce the length of a open contour. If you check the "separate tangential end extension" box you can adjust the start and end position values
+NYC CNC To do an open contour (say one edge of a square part) select your contour as normal and it will default to the closed contour around the whole square. While still in contour selection, Hover of the contour you selected till it changes color. Left click it and a small menu pops up with 2 icons. One is "closed contour" the other is "open". Click "open contour" icon. You can now select individual lines on the contour. When done click the green + and program as normal. Works with chamfer as well
+Scott Moyse Yeah I guess that's true! Also I know that HSMExpress only has 2D so that reaches a larger audience to look at it from John's perspective.
+Mitch Eichler your HSMXpress logic is sound. except the selections are different. These Fusion CAM videos apply to Inventor HSM & HSM Express users though.
+Scott Moyse Exactly! Which is what makes Autodesk's CAM the best. I will always prefer SolidWorks to Inventor and I really don't like Fusion for modeling, but the CAM is watertight for sure!
+doug farrish it will eventually be monthly subscription cost ($30/mo I think). But right now it's free for a year unless you are a business making more than $100k/yr. also the other add ons like multi-axis will require a paid subscription. They haven't nailed down the details yet I don't think. But for right now, Fusion is free
+occams Sawzall & +doug farrish. To be exact. Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists, students, teachers & educational institutions. Its also free for startups with a REVENUE, not profit, of up to $100k. For those guys, they get Fusion 360 Ultimate, which is US$1500 per year. F360U includes 4 & 5 axis machining (3+1 & 3+2) and mill turn, as well as 1000 cloud credits & Advanced Autodesk support. Base Fusion 360 is only US$300 a year anyway and currently has 3+1 & 3+2 available until Autodesk relaunch F360U with a bunch of new features later in the year. Currently you can only buy F360U through Autodesk resellers.
BEST ADVISE! Blue is the Sky, Green is "Go Forward".. best way to ever remember this, and you've taught me a valuable lesson here. Red, is Right, meaning X Axis, with Arrow pointing towards right travel.. epic. Appreciate it.
I'm an electronic engineer, rapid learning CAD/CAM/CNC design and picked the most intricate first design.. so, glad you all don't have to hear my relentless cussing the next few days.
This is just what I was looking for! I've been using Fusion 360 for 3D prints so I can model objects pretty well, but CAM is a real challenge for me now that I have a CNC router. Thanks for being so generous with your time and knowledge. People like you make the world a better place.
This is the first video I watched for CAM-ing in Fusion 6 months ago, I still come back to it from time to time to refresh my CAM knowledge, thank you!
10 out of 10 John. Awesome material and well presented.
Thank you for going slow. Been waiting for these videos since you had mentioned it at the open house.
Great video. We used it in training today. Quick tip: When scrubbing in simulation, you don't actually have to grab the handle at the bottom. You can click and drag left and right anywhere in the screen for finer control.
Tonight marks the night I got Fusion 360 to post and run a cut on my Novakon. I have been using Bobcad V22 for everything and its mostly just 2D so this is AWESOME! Thank you so much I could have never gotten to this point without you!
Really good to see a cam tutorial for a real world part. More please
I've been using Fusion 360 for a while, but hoped to pick up something from this, and I did! I recently started using chamfers to reduce hand cleanup, and this was good info on how to make a smaller chamfer. Just what I needed. Thanks!
Great stuff, very useful as I am transitioning from ZW CAM to Fusion, seeing how much more automated Fusion is in comparison. Takes a bit of getting used to, and trusting the software to do the right thing! Impressed so far, but I need more practice, so I will def be watching and listening to all of your videos! Thanks for your efforts, very much appreciated!
you helped me at my first baby steps. I have machined my first part because of this tutorial, with my hobby 6040 cnc. Thank you. You are awesome.
Thank you, Jon. I've been waiting for this in-depth series of videos. Getting ready to go into my second year of college where we are going to focus on CNC machining and CAM. Awesome, looking forward to the next video.
An old video but sometimes you need a refresher on the basics. Thanks!!!
Thanks for going back to the beginning with the CAM, been trying to pick this up a bit and it's good to have something from the ground up, but the bits and pieces have been interesting too!
Another great video John! Looking forward to seeing the part cut as well.
Just awesome information for us beginners.. and related in a way that is understandable. Keep these videos coming I watch them every saturday morning...my time :)
You should bring the Fusion Friday back😍
I need more of these videos! 10/10 when you make them it helps me a lot with our HAAS machine.
Awesome video. Thanks for the great tutorials.
I sure could have used this a few months ago! Great vid John! :)
Thanks!
Loved it! Well done and very practical. Keep them coming.
Best Matt
Hi John
My mind has been brightened by this video.
You helped me a lot.
Thx a lot.
Radek
Just like in class, but much quicker, ha! Only need 4 or 5 tools to complete most jobs & I've been using your formulas with lots of success!
Excellent, best training video yet, I'm saving this one.
First tutorial that actually helped me and I loved it :) Straight to practice and it works for me :))) 1000 thanks to you for doing this!!! Subscribed! Coming from 3D printing environment, you really helped me understand the difference in these two concepts. This will help me a lot now.
Thank you. Been waiting for a video like this. Great work.
I was asking about this exact thing on one of your vids a few days ago. Thanks so much!
Great presentation John. Thanks!
You're a good teacher ! Thank you.
Many thanks! excellent video! I was a bit stuck on the fusion cam!
I love this channel!! So helpful!!
Took some drawings from work to try and draw wit 360 or mastercam. Had to do some manual lathe work too yesterday and today.
Excellent tutorial John.
Great video! Thanks for posting! Keep em' coming!
oh..a very smart guy is talking on this channel .. 😆😆
very cool as always John .
heart fully thank you john for u r valuable videos
Awesome John!
Great info in there John
Looking forward to the soft jaw part 😀
Can I be cheeky and ask if at some time hence you can do one on fixturing
Stuart
Great video thanks for going slow. How about a video on how to flip a part to finish machining a deep hole, like when you did the silencer. Video on soft jaws too. Keep up the great video, I'm joining Patrion, your worth it...Dave
nice videos dude, it would be nice if you could make some tools and model parts available for download! keep going, great work!
I can't seem to find the next video to this!
Great one John... have not seen the select point for pre drilled holes before... cool..
Hope my FF request is still on your restaurant board ;)
done
hey great video. I know next time you're going to talk about flipping and soft jaws. could you also give us some strategies for flipping without making a custom fixture?
I've been working on my technique, will make a video and share. When are you making the next one?
Well done 👍
Very awesome!! Learned some new things.
well I am pretty new to cam so several things, 1st was the helical lead in and seeing how that works, 2nd and the biggest thing I learned was that adaptive is only for roughing, other then that just little things.
Also something I would love to see a vid about is how to duplicate an item like a knife scale on a fixture. especially since I spent the lat 2 hours failing at trying to get it work.
Thank you, This helps a lot. Jim
Hey John another great job on the video. Quick question at our shop we use master cam for all of our cam work can you tell me or do you know some of the benefits to fusion that master cam dosnt have I watch all your stuff and to me fusion seems way more simple and easier to use. Anxious to hear your feedback thanks a million!!!!
This looks almost exactly like a 1" mirror mount you can buy off-the-shelf, are you threading the bottom of the main hole?
the software seems to work very well on your computer. would you mind sharing the stats? processor, ram, graphics card and anything else you think is pertinent?
Thank you. It is a good one.
On that contouring what if the length of cut of your end mill isn't enough to do those surfaces in one pass? This was a really good video on this topic.
Can set multiple depths of cut in I think the linking tab so it'll repeat the profile and step down what you specify. Say .200 each pass till it reaches the final depth you set in the height tab
+NYC CNC rubbing? You mean burnishing to a fine finish :)
Hi John, How do I see video of milling part from fusion 360 cam video. Example... fusion friday 35
Excellent job. This was what I was looking for!!
Thank's man! You are the best!
Hi thanks for the video, can you please post a link to the video where you mill this? I want to see exactly how you are holding the stock
Where is this part video? I can't find it. I wanna see the whole process start to finish.
It's not there. If this video wasn't so helpful, I'd have had to give it a thumbs down...
Hi John, I am building a small CNC machine similar to the one you built some while ago, I am using to drill PCB,s I know I can use Eagle to generate G-Code from a design BUT if I want to drill from a Photograph i.e Negative or Positive of the PCB using a Webcam I cannot find a program to record the positions of the holes so I can then make a G-Code file for Mach3, Can you help in any way.....John M I live in UK
P.S Your a brilliant teacher love your videos
Thanks man you are the best !
Great video, that's what I needed!
How would you rotate the part if it were sideways?
He didn't go over selecting a WCS (work coordinate system) much
But when you first setup the part, the stock and such, you can move the WCS and orient it however you'd like. In this part example all yo d have to do is switch the X and Y and the part would be oriented sideways.
Hey John! Very nice video!
Does adaptive automatically leave some stock for the 2d contour "finish pass"?
It defaults to a value of stock to leave on the walls. But you can always adjust it to whatever you want. You could even set it to leave 0 if you like. So you do have to give it a value, but it doesn't force you to have to leave stock on if you don't want it to
Nice 2.5 axis vid John. it would be cool for new viewers to see the 3D Adaptive would rough that part with a few clicks.
Good to show 2D since it can be used on a prototrak style machine. Which may be a more common machine people here have rather than a tormach.
Every operation here could be done on a Bridgeport prototrak. Whereas a 3D adaptive requires a full 3axis machine.
But ya. I would have 3D adaptive cut this part as well. But for the sake of teaching and simplicity. I think demonstrating 2D only paths was the right call.
+Occams Sawzall no it wouldn't. 3D Adaptive would run fine on any of those machines.
+Occams Sawzall and like I said it was a nice 2.5 axis tutorial
+Scott Moyse I'd be interested in seeing a helical entry into that center bore done on a prototrak with a manual Z... That and I'd imagine going back and forth on the quill for the lift up on the back feed move would be rather tiresome...
Sure I suppose you could set the lift up to zero and only use plunge entry moves. But I think the 2.5 d approach here would be much more efficient and less annoying to the operator. Though I do know some operators I would enjoy annoying...
+Occams Sawzall not all Prototraks have manual Z's... and the combination of the 3 x 2D Adaptive tool paths can be created easily with 3D Adaptive in only a few clicks.
Thanks !
Last week I saw a video where you had some 7in 6061(I think)- have you ever thought about getting it roughed out on a manual lathe. and then doing the fine details on the tormach? I don't kow how often you do that type of stuff or if it is even worth saving tormach hours vs the extra time spent on the lathe. Just seems like a lot of material to remove with CNC. With the part in this video I have the same sort of question, why not use that band saw to quickly remove the sides of a bunch of "Bodies" rather than all that CNC work? I'm guessing that you've thought it out, but use in case you didn't, I had to bring it up. I don't do much on my manual lathe, but I always try to get the bulk of material removed before I start making the chips. I don't know where the break even point is, but watching the Tormach cut out the Porsche from that big block made me want to put it on the band saw for you and then get 1/2 the CNC time I saved you for ME! I'm sure there is a point where it make sense, just don't know first hand. I don't know if you have ever tried them, but those Milwaukee Steel Hawgs will cut a 2in hole in a 1in steel plate in about a minute. That's just over 3ci of steel. They are pretty cheap too don't know if it would be worth your time to fit a couple to your tool bin. I tap them with 3/4 16 and screw them on to an MT3 that I put the same threads on.
His stock size on the width seemed a bit excessive. But I suspect it was because that's just what he has on hand for stock. .
Removing that material on a CNC is a matter of less than a minute with the shear hog. Not much slower than trying to bandsaw it off than skimming the edges so they sit flat against the vise jaws. The extruded stock edges are generally straight and flat enough to throw in a vise without issue.
Now for op 2 I would band saw off as much of the excess stock as I could then soft jaw the part and just take the back off.
Also... I don't know if he has a vertical bandsaw in the shop....I can't actually recall a video seeing him use one...
+Occams Sawzall I saw what looked like a vertical in the middle of the hummer garage about 75% of the way in. It's much more of a no brainer when you are manual, but I figure there is a point where it makes sense for CNC too- just don't know where that point is.
+Jim Wilson I honestly rarely bandsaw things and will opt to take off as much as reasonable in the mill.
Most CNC's, even a tormach, will be able to clear out stock faster than even chunking it off in a bandsaw. Really the only time I do is for OP2 if there's a lot of excess stock hanging outside the outer profile of the part. Even then I may just do a single profile around the outer perimeter and drop the slugs right off in the mill.
Hell on the 5 axis I can do most parts in a single op.
it wont generate the tool path on the taps. I have accounted for the tap and drill size. really pissing me off
Great Video. Thanks for going slow :)
RE Simulation Icon: a tool machining over a part.
What is the function of post processor
What is the name of this part, thankyou
In cam 360 option g1g2 what is fuction
That was a real good video a lot of detail 👍👍 by the way when I like the videos by hitting the like the number of likes doesn't increase is that normal???
I'm sorry to be clear the Thumbs up button , when I click on it the number of thumbs up doesn't increase just wondering if that is normal
you don't get to see you only other's that give thumbs up
+daniel lyall it increases when I click it....
must be a bug I don't see it ever
bloody google
I use GibbsCAM at work and it's great for letting you pick curves and places to stop and start at. is there a way to half chamfer something? or pick the start and stopping point if you don't want to chamfer the whole thing?
You can do partial lines, however there is no way to adjust the start and stop position for chamfer milling. You can with contour, but not chamfer. Development oversight is all I can think.
+NYC CNC actually that's not true. You in fact can.
Under Geometry tab > tangential extension you can set that to a negative value and it will reduce the length of a open contour. If you check the "separate tangential end extension" box you can adjust the start and end position values
+NYC CNC
To do an open contour (say one edge of a square part) select your contour as normal and it will default to the closed contour around the whole square. While still in contour selection, Hover of the contour you selected till it changes color. Left click it and a small menu pops up with 2 icons. One is "closed contour" the other is "open". Click "open contour" icon. You can now select individual lines on the contour. When done click the green + and program as normal. Works with chamfer as well
or use the Alt key...
+Chad Krause to answer simply, in most cases, yes you can. There are some exceptions.
I usually go for 3D adaptive and I usually see you go for 2D. Is there a reason you prefer it?
In this case 3D Adaptive would have been quicker. But 2D Adaptive sometimes allows you to baby sit your toolpaths more.
+Scott Moyse Yeah I guess that's true! Also I know that HSMExpress only has 2D so that reaches a larger audience to look at it from John's perspective.
+Mitch Eichler Even though most paying for SolidWorks would pay for HSMWorks...so maybe not haha.
+Mitch Eichler your HSMXpress logic is sound. except the selections are different. These Fusion CAM videos apply to Inventor HSM & HSM Express users though.
+Scott Moyse Exactly! Which is what makes Autodesk's CAM the best. I will always prefer SolidWorks to Inventor and I really don't like Fusion for modeling, but the CAM is watertight for sure!
top
is this a paid version of fusion? I'd like to try it out
Fusion is free up to 3 axis milling if you're just hobby/student/personal level right now.
And there's a 30day free trial regardless
+Occams Sawzall if the software is free why does it come with a trial?
+doug farrish it will eventually be monthly subscription cost ($30/mo I think). But right now it's free for a year unless you are a business making more than $100k/yr. also the other add ons like multi-axis will require a paid subscription. They haven't nailed down the details yet I don't think.
But for right now, Fusion is free
+occams Sawzall & +doug farrish. To be exact. Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists, students, teachers & educational institutions. Its also free for startups with a REVENUE, not profit, of up to $100k. For those guys, they get Fusion 360 Ultimate, which is US$1500 per year. F360U includes 4 & 5 axis machining (3+1 & 3+2) and mill turn, as well as 1000 cloud credits & Advanced Autodesk support. Base Fusion 360 is only US$300 a year anyway and currently has 3+1 & 3+2 available until Autodesk relaunch F360U with a bunch of new features later in the year. Currently you can only buy F360U through Autodesk resellers.
+Scott Moyse because that's not confusing XD
I'm getting flashbacks of Columbia house video offers