Red Dot Forum Camera Talk: The Filter Episode
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- Опубліковано 25 жов 2024
- In this week's Red Dot Forum Camera Talk, Leica experts Josh Lehrer and David Farkas are diving deep into the word of photographic filters. Learn what filters are most useful for film or digital, which ones are must-haves for landscape photography, and how to maximize visual impact for black and white shooting. From UV to Night Sky and Dark Polarizers to Graduated NDs, we'll distill down the options so you can build out a solid filter kit for your Leica camera.
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Thank you for another great study session! While I only have one Leica, a Q2M I gained some ideas to use with my Canon kits......I'm task oriented and this episode is just that!
David’s example of partial polarization of the image from Colorado is not only because he shot in the direction of the sun, but is also due to the fact that he used an ultra wide angle lens and thus there is an inherited flaw in using polarization with such wide angle lens. In general, I would be cautious using a CPL with an ultra wide angle lens as you will always get a partial gradation of the polarization across the image. On a different note, for M lenses, consider using Kase magnetic filters - you can simply hold the filter up to your eye to confirm the polarization and then attach to the magnetic holder without having to mark the filter as mentioned (works on film cameras). They make a new 52 mm system that works for most M system lens. This may be cheeper than purchasing multiple filter sets as a hood is not need when using CPL PLUS ND filters. Alternatively, one could purchase a combined CPL with 3 or 6 stop ND from breakthrough as suggested in the video. Great video as always. Cheers, BVA from Canada
16:10 For the discussion on whether UV/Protection Filters are of benefit! Thank you!
Had not paid attention to Breakthrough until this video, Thanks.
You had it right the first time--Christmas ornament.
I had to go out in the middle of the Broadcast.. still the most entertaining Broadcast on Sat evening.
Thanks Josh,David and Jose.
Love your watches guys! Though I own Omega and Tags…
My Monochrom lenses all have 4x (2-stop) orange filters basically glued on. Love the contrast-enhancing effect, especially with older lenses like the 35/2.8 Summaron.
Right there with you! Orange filter is a great all-arounder for the Monochrom.
Very entertaining, and informative. And timely, as I'm looking into filters. Thank you. You did not mention the soft focus spot filter of the Thambar-M at all though. ;)
That one is a little specialized! Glad the rest was helpful, though.
Video @ 22:25 "aluminum filters get stuck on lenses?" - Especially with aluminum, the "grit/debris" you mentioned, will cause binding/jamming. Less so with Brass!
As any machinist knows, when brass is being worked/drilled, it's very 'slippery'. In fact, they use the term "self-lubricating" when it comes to this great metal...
I think the photographer who took the long exposure in Grand Central Station was Alfred Gescheidt
For black-and-white film, a yellow filter is really just a correction filter, not an effect filter. So yes, the "effect" is subtle. B&W film is oversensitive to blue and ultraviolet - a yellow filter makes B&W film respond correctly and look "normal." So, forget the UV filter* for B&W film, just use a yellow one all the time. Except indoors and at night (no need for a filter there)(except portraits to smooth skin tone). Orange starts to create an effect. I find it most pleasing and use orange outdoors pretty much all the time. It makes clouds and skies look nice, and generally gives a nice contrast. Red makes for dramatic moody cloudy skies. If you can find a blue filter, try it in the fog. I don't think anyone makes blue filters anymore.
-An Old Grey-haired Dude Who Still Shoots Film
PS: Polarizers do *not* reduce glare on metal objects. It's a long science-y reason, but they just don't. They will reduce glare on paint, such as painted metal on a car, but not on chrome or those beautiful Rolex bracelets (I WANT that GMT! lol) or any other metal.
*I have noticed that B+W UV filters actually don't block UV at all. I tested using a UV flashlight on US currency (which has features that illuminate under UV). Even my regular clear eyeglasses completely blocked the UV, and the currency didn't light up. The B+W "UV filter" did nothing at all - it may as well have been a Clear filter. The B+W yellow filter completely absorbed the UV light, which is exactly what is wanted for film correction. So if you're shooting black-and-while film, consider using at least a yellow filter all the time (except at night and indoors). You're gonna like the way you look!
More: That is one of the often-unstated benefits of using a rangefinder camera: Using color filters. With an SLR, you're looking through the lens, and thus through the filter. And trying to focus with the reduced light, and seeing everything yellow, orange, green, red, or blue. Rangefinders are perfect for B&W - you can put any color filter on the lens, and you still get the same clear bright view, and easy focussing even in low light. Same goes for twin-lens reflex cameras, like Rolleiflexes. Because you should pretty much always use some kind of color filter with B&W, there you go.
"forget the UV filter* - use a yellow one all the time" - ? ? ? You're forgetting to mention to folks that there is a correction for exposure on the Yellow filters. Exposure compensation averages 1 FULL stop for a Yellow (In effect, it turns your f/2 lens into an f/2.8 lens). No such compensations for UV or Skylight filters...
"those beautiful Rolex bracelets (I WANT that GMT!" - Just in case you didn't realize, Josh is wearing a Rolex Daytona...
@@y2ktube True enough, but f/2 is still f/2. If you're shooting ISO 125 film, meter at 64. One stop is nothing in daylight - you'll still get 1/125 sec in the shade at f/2.
@@y2ktube I do realize, and I wasn't talking about Josh's watch, obviously.
Stuck circular filter? Keep a rubber band from a bunch of broccoli in your camera bag. It fits even the E39 Leica filters. I just checked Josh ;-)
I know that it's tough, but a time coded index could be super useful. Either by topic or key talking points. For example, I loved the roundup of 75mm lenses and you commented that one of them had the "best Leica look" or character. Can't find that point and because it's all about Leica 75mm lenses the shifts from lens to lens can be subtle.
Yeah. They should do this for sure. Sometimes they do. For instance, on this video, they really didn't get too much into Breakthrough Photography vs everyone else. (I think they just forgot to circle back.) This would've been good to hear, because almost all Breakthrough Photography ND and CPL filters are on Backorder, and have been for like two years now.
Watching you keep cleaning or wiping off those filters with what looked like a dry cloth hurt my eyes. Also when using a cleaning fluid, I spray the cleaner on a Zeiss lens cleaning cloth. Works great. Other than that , a great show & some beautiful Iceland photos.
Quickly cleaning high-quality multi-coated glass filters with a dry microfiber lens cloth is safe provided there's no grit or sand on the surface. The same applies to lenses. A wet cleaning is needed when there is oil, grease, or salt residue.
Currently shooting with a S2 and Summarit-S 70. Do I need a UV or will my CCD be fine. What Filter thread is for the 70mm. It said E82, will a regual 82mm work. Do you preferre square vs rounded filters. I have bought Firecrest 100x100. I hope you think its good.
Not only do you not need a UV filter, having one on your 70mm all the time would be detrimental. The front piece of the glass on the 70mm Summarit-S is a protecting filter, not the front element, and is completely flat. If you put another parallel surface you're likely to get light bouncing between them leading to flare and a drop in contrast. Yes, the E82 filter size is standard 82mm threading.
Both round and square filters have a place. Firecrest is ok from what I've seen. Our favorite is still Breakthrough Photography filters.
I get weird light effects (glare, strange light spots, etc.) when I am using a 10 stop nd filter with my 28mm elmarit on my Leica M4. It becomes stronger, the smaller the aperture - from barely visible at f4 to horrible at f11 and beyond.
it depends on the filter ring material... temperature difference will cause seizure of the threads..... and as I am typing this. they are telling about the "FREEZER TRICK" ...which validates my comment... Brass filter on an aluminum lens and visa verse
Hi I have a Breakthrough 6 stop ND, if I get a polarizer can I stack them and get good results ? Thanks H
Yes, you can. A 6-Stop Dark Polarizer would be a little better, but you should be fine for most lighting scenarios. The only place you might get into a little trouble is shooting directly into the sun, which would negate the polarizer anyway.
@@RedDotForum thank you
Nice glasses David!
Yeah, I had to go all the way to Iceland for them!
Why no linear polarizing filters for M lenses? I thought those were particularly useful for rangefinder cameras.
A circular polarizer allows you to adjust the polarization effect as needed. This isn't the case for a linear polarizer in a circular mount.
@@RedDotForum makes sense. Thank you!
If I shoot and work on RAW, why would I use a filter and limit my post processing options?
We shoot only in DNG as well. On the contrary, using filters can make post processing easier. Some filter effects like polarization cannot be achieved in post, only at the time of capture. Same goes for ND to get slower shutter speeds.
This might sound odd: It's because your post processing options are limited. Think about it.
David mi amor Te amo 💙💙💙
Do you recommend pro mist filters for photography?
Not particularly, no. Similar contrast control can be done in post processing without degrading original image quality.
@@RedDotForum Thank you. By the way, is the Breakthrough Night Filter worth it?
@@RedDotForum Do you recommend pro mist filters for doing video on the SL2-2?
This was a very interesting session - the one new insight I will try to apply in my workflow is the suggested use of ND filter combined with polarizer for waterfall photos. I think it is a very good idea which I was not aware of until now.
Controlling reflections (polarizer) and controlling light (ND) are critical to successful waterfall photography.
Hi good morning🌞
Are there any different rules for APO lenses.
Same rules apply. You always want the highest quality filters you can get.
If these two guys stopped mucking around so incompetently you could distill their stuff into a tenth of the time. Their constant and repeated production blunders turn into predictable slapstick after ten minutesof watching. I’m amazed this attracts a viewership.
I look forward to your Leica channel!
I’m not planning on having one but I don’t believe that disqualifies me from commenting on yours.
You are an ignoramus.