I have been machining for many years and have worked at a number of shops over the years, I have never heard of anyone running the cut backwards for chip control on brass! What an amazing idea thank you! This shows you are never too old to learn, I am 69
That "manual tracer" is super cool. Might have to make one of those for myself. Side note, your hand profiling skills are superb. I hope that people appreciate how difficult it is to do that.
What a coincidence that I plan tomake the knob for the Belt tracking today. You made me changed my mind from aluminum to bronze. I don't have a big selection but I found a piece. Thanks Max
That turned out well Max. You've got your CNC arms working well. I had to laugh when you had the spindle going in the wrong direction. I'm currently machining a batch of 44 parts in my HBM and there is one threaded hole in each one. This is the first time I have done alot of threading in my HBM. I reverse the spindle to back the tap out and then the next step is to centre drill the next part. The number of times I have tried to centre drill with the spindle going the wrong way is embarrassingly high. Ken
Lol . If you have not turned you machine on at least 500 times the wrong way , you must still be new to machining !!! Cheers . Hey , if you remember , can you show a shot of the 50 taper tool grabber in the HBM some time . Thanks 👍
I don’t worry too much about knerls. What happens is that once the cutting actually starts, the knerls sync up pretty well. That generally happens because they push the metal around the piece by a tiny amount and as the knerls are free wheeling, their speed changes to match the cuts, not the rotational speed or diameter. I know that sounds odd, but I can’t explain it any better without showing some graphic illustration, preferably over a timeline. But it does work. It’s why knerling is possible at all. Otherwise we’d need knerls for every single diameter. Instead, we have knerls for different size cuts instead. Generally though, as is obvious, smaller diameters usually have smaller knerls. I just recently used a straight knerl of 30 teeth per inch on a small stainless knob I made of 0.875 inch in diameter. In theory, that shouldn’t work, but it did, very well.
Wow just wow, As iv said before, only to be able to stand and watch a master craftsman at work, Thanks Max for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience with us, From kiwi land
I am definately making that profile tracing fixture. I will mention your channel when I do - if you don't mind. Looks like the same lathe as mine. Great job Max.
Good stuff Max. The bit on the knurling I did not know, always wondered why the diameter was important. The templet tool I have seen one before, as my Dad would make cabinets and other furniture as a hobby. Cheers
WOW you have quite the touch on the lathe Max!!!! The template gauge can be gotten at woodworking supply stores. They are available in plastic fingers but I prefer the ones like yours with metal ones. Cheers
Nice job on the knob! I bought a hydraulic duplicator 10 years ago for $30 - old obsolete technology in industry. Made some missing parts, $100 of new oil and new electrical cord and it does what you just demonstrated with a little less skilled operator - me😂
Hi Max. Nice work as always. I have a set of Acetal pads for my steady rest when galling might be an issue, works really well. If anyone has trouble finding one of those profile gauge, you can get a tile profile gauge from most hardware stores they are generally plastic, but do a decent job. You mentioned being lucky on the profile 2nd side, I think it was Jack Nicklaus who said "the more I practice, the luckier I get", wise words from the master. Best wishes, Mal.
Hello Max, watching you bang on the chuck key made my hands hurt... I know you have been at it for eons and eons, but those delicate tools of yours we call hands are paying the price.....I recently took some 25.4 mm tubing and made a handle for my chuck key, I just welded to the key of one that would not keep the handle in....what a difference it made in comfort, I also made it about 50% longer....I only have a 13" old South Bend, but the amount of effort and Pain I no longer get is amazing.....it makes 4 jaw work much nicer. too....hope someone can appreciate.....cheers, Paul
Yeah nicely done. Good practice to get it to match so perfectly. Likely unnecessary but its good habit. For those that want one of those radius templates, bunnings sell them. Empire brand. Very handy for lots of things.
Max an old trick that I'm sure you are aware of Is to oil the back side of emery cloth and wrap the back side around the stock. Then snug the non-roller tips to the abrasive side of the emery cloth. This allows the material to rotate inside the emery cloth without marking the stock. It's an old gunsmith trick. Excellent job you are doing without my advice so thanks for bringing us along.
Hi Max, radius versus direct, catches me out on my DRO when i forget to switch back. A lot more copper compared to zinc in the original knob. Copying the engraving might be challenging for the owner.
Hi Max, lovely knob you got there😂, something to consider is the wood turning method work on brass lovely, just where got remove bit especially on a rad like your knob , just found 2 temco on UK ebay as well. Steve
Very nice idee for the copie setup, i am convinced you run a Segwai lathe, bigger than mine but very simmelar parts and the handwheel at the right side, safe for swarfs.
Good idea to put the tool upside down and run the lathe in reverse. So you don't take a chips shower. And the free hand forming is something I need to practice more. One day maybe...
Max have you ever tried a roll of emery cloth around the material. You put the rough side facing the fingers and coat it with oil. The paper stays put and prevents wear but keeps a loose tolerance.
Nice work Max! The only difference I can see is the depth of the straight knurling. Maybe put a threading tool on it's side and divide by the number needed and cut the grooves by light shaping?. I can index on my lathe spindle which is ideal for cutting small patterns like that. But it's probably overkill for this part. How about the engraving on the top? Do you need to replicate that as well? Thank you for sharing your work. It's a joy to watch and I learned about manual tracing a part for a future job! Thank you Max. Best, Job
Great stuff Max. Have you tried a graver ? Great for freehand profiling . Got a bit of s shock buying material 60 mm fia x 300 bronze dolid $287. Ouch .keep up yhe good work
Didn't you have one of those turnado things? I thought you reviewed it once. If not they are pretty cool for tracing. Maybe you can hit them up and score one to review. I'm not affiliated, they just look fun is all.
Hi Max, have you ever tried a cut knurling tool ? No pressure problems as with pressure knurling. I use one with my lathe which is similar to yours, and it would have cut that knurl without moving the workpiece.
@@swanvalleymachineshop I made my own Max. Copied from a guy on youtube ' We Can Do That Better ' Universal cut knurling tool. Only thing I did differently was to use the Quick knurl hardened steel bushing instead of a pin as he has used, and screwed the knurl/bush to the tool.
BSF, Top Brass Max. Love the tip. Running in reverse. Point this n Point that? I thought I was a memory dumbo lol. I am well behind you Max. Cheers Tony
Cam follower rollers not ball bearings . But ball bearings , despite what every one says would still work on a small lathe like this with light duty work , you just change them on a regular basis because they are cheap . 👍
It doesn't help that alot of the steady rests for the smaller modern light industrial type machines are really not very good. The rest for my DSG 1307 is heavy, everything is very close tolerance and it's been scraped in so it fits properly. But it needs to be good when you have 10hp behind the headstock and it can run a 40" length of 5" bar.
I have watched your videos on your old DSG lathe, got a lot of work ahead bringing that one back to good working order. Mine is 1972 built and in really quite good order, just some issues I'm working on currently, has the belt high speed range, has a hydraulic copier, is a metric machine. You get spoiled though, it would be very hard to go back to using something not as good.
The order of operations was off. The knurling should have been done right after the two (front and back) profiles were slightly cut. The knurls then would not have had such an abrupt beginning and end and would have looked more like the original. Great innovated job otherwise.
Now Max you do realize the double tracking is purely an expression of the diameter of your stock vs the diameter of your knurler. So as you apply more pressure your stock diameter will vary and the knurl will effectively come in and out of focus. So all the pre-examination is rather useless. You just gotta dial it in until they look crisp. Nice end result though for what it's worth.😊
That usually works in soft steel , most of the time . Brass is different . Do the approximate calculation & get it right & on size the first time with only one pass . 👍
Lol . It was my Fathers steel fabrication shop , with a machine shop area at the back ! Lol , Kapiti College was one of my stomping grounds back in the day ! 👍
It wasn't luck that got you such a good result, it was skill!
Lol , more ass than a heard of Elephants !!! Cheers 👍
I have been machining for many years and have worked at a number of shops over the years, I have never heard of anyone running the cut backwards for chip control on brass! What an amazing idea thank you! This shows you are never too old to learn, I am 69
Thanks . Run the flood coolant flat out & it can help as well . 👍
That "manual tracer" is super cool. Might have to make one of those for myself. Side note, your hand profiling skills are superb. I hope that people appreciate how difficult it is to do that.
Thanks 👍
What a coincidence that I plan tomake the knob for the Belt tracking today. You made me changed my mind from aluminum to bronze. I don't have a big selection but I found a piece. Thanks Max
Cheers Randy . 👍
That turned out well Max. You've got your CNC arms working well. I had to laugh when you had the spindle going in the wrong direction. I'm currently machining a batch of 44 parts in my HBM and there is one threaded hole in each one. This is the first time I have done alot of threading in my HBM. I reverse the spindle to back the tap out and then the next step is to centre drill the next part. The number of times I have tried to centre drill with the spindle going the wrong way is embarrassingly high. Ken
Lol . If you have not turned you machine on at least 500 times the wrong way , you must still be new to machining !!! Cheers . Hey , if you remember , can you show a shot of the 50 taper tool grabber in the HBM some time . Thanks 👍
Always enjoy your Etch-a-Sketch technique 👍
Great description 👌
Thanks 👍
I don’t worry too much about knerls. What happens is that once the cutting actually starts, the knerls sync up pretty well. That generally happens because they push the metal around the piece by a tiny amount and as the knerls are free wheeling, their speed changes to match the cuts, not the rotational speed or diameter. I know that sounds odd, but I can’t explain it any better without showing some graphic illustration, preferably over a timeline. But it does work. It’s why knerling is possible at all. Otherwise we’d need knerls for every single diameter. Instead, we have knerls for different size cuts instead. Generally though, as is obvious, smaller diameters usually have smaller knerls. I just recently used a straight knerl of 30 teeth per inch on a small stainless knob I made of 0.875 inch in diameter. In theory, that shouldn’t work, but it did, very well.
Steel is a bit more forgiving than brass . A straight knurl in brass may on occasion crack off if the brass has been deformed too much . 👍
Nice knobs Max mate! That tracer setup is crazy, simple and effective, great job as always
Cheers Ralfy 👍
Great job Max, love the "Manual " tracer jobbe 👌.
Thanks for sharing
No worries 👍
Ive not done any turning with the tool up side down. But seeing this, im going to have a go at it. cheers Max.
It keeps the brass shooting back to the lathe & not everywhere else . Cheers 👍
G'day Max. The duplicating jig does a really nice. Well done with the Max Touch. Lol😅😊
Cheers Ted 👍
Thanks for another great vid.
No worries 👍
Nice build… great free hand
Thanks Chuck . 👍
Wow just wow, As iv said before, only to be able to stand and watch a master craftsman at work, Thanks Max for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience with us,
From kiwi land
No worries 👍
Turned out good max. You gets all the handy ones 😂
Cheers 🍺🍺🍺
I am definately making that profile tracing fixture. I will mention your channel when I do - if you don't mind. Looks like the same lathe as mine. Great job Max.
No worries 👍
That chunk of brass must be worth a fair old whack these days. Metal prices are going crazy at present. Nice detailed work Max.
Close to a dollar per mm . Thanks 👍
Freeform cutting a profile like that can be risky business but you make it look like child's play. Nice job Max. I really enjoy your videos!
Thanks! 👍
thanks for the videos Max you're a bloody legend!
Cheers 👍
Another 'Tractor' part nicely replicated ;)
Yes 👍
Good stuff Max. The bit on the knurling I did not know, always wondered why the diameter was important. The templet tool I have seen one before, as my Dad would make cabinets and other furniture as a hobby. Cheers
Thanks . 👍
WOW you have quite the touch on the lathe Max!!!! The template gauge can be gotten at woodworking supply stores. They are available in plastic fingers but I prefer the ones like yours with metal ones. Cheers
Thanks 👍
Great job mate
Thanks Matty . Might have to let you into the secrets of block turning , you would have made those threaded nt40 inserts in about half the time ! 👍
Max, Love your simple manual tracer setup. I’m going to have to make one for my lathe. Cheers, Will
Thanks 👍
Max, you gave many ideas with this video.......thank you so much, ....Paul
No worries . 👍
Nice job on the knob! I bought a hydraulic duplicator 10 years ago for $30 - old obsolete technology in industry. Made some missing parts, $100 of new oil and new electrical cord and it does what you just demonstrated with a little less skilled operator - me😂
I have one as well . It's on the ''one day '' list of things to sort out ! 👍
very good job friend Max,,thanks for your time
Thanks 👍
something i have never thought of,,,,making your own brass door knobs!!!👍👍👍
Lol , hardware store is cheaper ! Price of Brass & Bronze is through the roof ! 👍
Hi Max. Nice work as always. I have a set of Acetal pads for my steady rest when galling might be an issue, works really well. If anyone has trouble finding one of those profile gauge, you can get a tile profile gauge from most hardware stores they are generally plastic, but do a decent job. You mentioned being lucky on the profile 2nd side, I think it was Jack Nicklaus who said "the more I practice, the luckier I get", wise words from the master. Best wishes, Mal.
I like those words of wisdom ! Cheers 👍
A work of art Max, very enjoyable to watch. 👍👍👍
Thanks Ian 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍
No worries 👍
Hello Max, watching you bang on the chuck key made my hands hurt...
I know you have been at it for eons and eons, but those delicate tools
of yours we call hands are paying the price.....I recently took some 25.4 mm
tubing and made a handle for my chuck key, I just welded to the key of one
that would not keep the handle in....what a difference it made in comfort,
I also made it about 50% longer....I only have a 13" old South Bend, but
the amount of effort and Pain I no longer get is amazing.....it makes 4 jaw
work much nicer. too....hope someone can appreciate.....cheers, Paul
Yes , need to look after the hands . 👍
Yeah nicely done. Good practice to get it to match so perfectly. Likely unnecessary but its good habit. For those that want one of those radius templates, bunnings sell them. Empire brand. Very handy for lots of things.
Thanks 👍
Max an old trick that I'm sure you are aware of Is to oil the back side of emery cloth and wrap the back side around the stock. Then snug the non-roller tips to the abrasive side of the emery cloth. This allows the material to rotate inside the emery cloth without marking the stock. It's an old gunsmith trick. Excellent job you are doing without my advice so thanks for bringing us along.
Thanks . I heard that one mentioned a few weeks back somewhere . More so used to reduce chatter . 👍
Ta MAXI Mollydooker excelent vid mate love the close up cam shots cheers youve earnt a Beer or 10
Thanks 👍
13:00, I learned some great stuff about knurling
and diameters, thanks Max
No worries , thanks 👍
Nice work very interesting
Thanks 👍
Max - It looks better than the original . -- Jim
Thanks Jim . 👍
Thanks for the looksee!Nice.
No worries 👍
Hi Max, radius versus direct, catches me out on my DRO when i forget to switch back.
A lot more copper compared to zinc in the original knob.
Copying the engraving might be challenging for the owner.
The inch reading is in direct & metric is in diameters all on the same cross slide dial ! I suggested he find someone with a pantograph engraver . 👍
hello Max, looking great my friend, Paul in Florida in the US.....
Thanks 👍
Hi Max, lovely knob you got there😂, something to consider is the wood turning method work on brass lovely, just where got remove bit especially on a rad like your knob , just found 2 temco on UK ebay as well.
Steve
Thanks . Never tried the wood turning method . 👍
Spot on! 👍
Cheers Tom . Started at 3:30 am today to beat the heat . 42 C ! 👍
Goodness.@@swanvalleymachineshop
Nice work , great skills Max
Cheers Chris
Thanks 👍
You can grip short work in ER collets if you use a section of stock turned to the same diameter to fill up the back section of the collet.
Another option . Cheers 👍
Good afternoon Max.
Art turning I call this.👍
And very well done.
You love your two hand curves and chamfers.
Thanks 👍
I am really just to lazy to change the tool for a 2 second opp !
Thank you Max!
No worries 👍
Nice win. Thanks for all the tips - cheers 🍻
No worries 👍
Very nice idee for the copie setup, i am convinced you run a Segwai lathe, bigger than mine but very simmelar parts and the handwheel at the right side, safe for swarfs.
Lol , no it's not a Segwai . 👍
Thx for the vid.
No worries 👍
Awesome fine work. Pretty tricky to get those curves just right. .
Thanks 👍
You know Max I love a clean chucking surface, I've seen so many with chip gouges in them , it's one of my peeves!
You have to look after them . Cheers 👍
Like everything else you need an operator that cares about the machine.
Good idea to put the tool upside down and run the lathe in reverse. So you don't take a chips shower.
And the free hand forming is something I need to practice more. One day maybe...
Makes it easier to collect all the brass again . Better rate at the scrap yard if it not contaminated . 👍
The father of one of my mates reckoned that BSF was a bloody silly fred
There are a lot worse out there . 👍
Max have you ever tried a roll of emery cloth around the material. You put the rough side facing the fingers and coat it with oil. The paper stays put and prevents wear but keeps a loose tolerance.
I have herd of it , but only used to reduce chatter . Cheers 👍
Well done Max, I really like manual tracer setup.. Knob job turned out great 👍👍
Cheers....ATB...
Thanks Dean 👍
Nice work Max! The only difference I can see is the depth of the straight knurling. Maybe put a threading tool on it's side and divide by the number needed and cut the grooves by light shaping?. I can index on my lathe spindle which is ideal for cutting small patterns like that. But it's probably overkill for this part. How about the engraving on the top? Do you need to replicate that as well? Thank you for sharing your work. It's a joy to watch and I learned about manual tracing a part for a future job! Thank you Max. Best, Job
Thanks . No don't heed to do the engraving , that's up to the owner . Did some tapered knurling the other day & used the method you mentioned . 👍
Great stuff Max. Have you tried a graver ? Great for freehand profiling .
Got a bit of s shock buying material 60 mm fia x 300 bronze dolid $287. Ouch .keep up yhe good work
Lol , the stuff is about a dollar per mm ! Never tried a graver . 👍
Always nice work with great explanations.
Thanks Rob . 👍
Nice job? Shit 10 Fahrenheit and wind here this AM in the north east US. Keep up the interesting projects!
Thanks . Our day time temps are 100 F TO 114 F . Over this heat wave , roll on Winter ! 👍
thats a nice copy max.
i wonder how close you can copy if you use a dial indicator and hold it at zero instead of a stylus?
cheers ben.
You can get it within a couple of thou , but it takes ages . I have done that method in an early video making an internal spherical bearing . 👍
👍
Cheers 👍
Didn't you have one of those turnado things? I thought you reviewed it once. If not they are pretty cool for tracing. Maybe you can hit them up and score one to review. I'm not affiliated, they just look fun is all.
No , don't have one . I do have a ball turner i made up though . 👍
Cheers Max nice job mate ,as you say if you havent made any cockups you havent done machining very long👍👍👍
That is my excuse & i am sticking to it ! 👍👍👍
Hi Max, have you ever tried a cut knurling tool ? No pressure problems as with pressure knurling. I use one with my lathe which is similar to yours, and it would have cut that knurl without moving the workpiece.
Never tried one . Looked into them a few years back & the cost was through the roof .👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop I made my own Max. Copied from a guy on youtube
' We Can Do That Better ' Universal cut knurling tool. Only thing I did differently was to use the Quick knurl hardened steel bushing instead of a pin as he has used, and screwed the knurl/bush to the tool.
? ... so having the cutting tool upside down and the lathe running backwards = does the 'Knob' end up being Left or Right Hand ?
Left handed . Does not work in the Northern Hemisphere , it unlocks instead if locks . 👍
BSF, Top Brass Max. Love the tip. Running in reverse. Point this n Point that? I thought I was a memory dumbo lol. I am well behind you Max. Cheers Tony
Cheers Tony . 👍
Great video, but that is one expensive brass knob, with the price of brass bar that diamiter, cheaper to buy new set of knobs. ,
You can not buy these knobs , for an early 1940's restoration . 👍
Rollers on the steady rest, but actual rollers not just bearings running on a stub, or some nylon running pads instead of the bronze pads.
Cam follower rollers not ball bearings . But ball bearings , despite what every one says would still work on a small lathe like this with light duty work , you just change them on a regular basis because they are cheap . 👍
It doesn't help that alot of the steady rests for the smaller modern light industrial type machines are really not very good.
The rest for my DSG 1307 is heavy, everything is very close tolerance and it's been scraped in so it fits properly. But it needs to be good when you have 10hp behind the headstock and it can run a 40" length of 5" bar.
@@dutchgray86 Rolls Royce of lathes . I have an old one , 1930's . 👍
I have watched your videos on your old DSG lathe, got a lot of work ahead bringing that one back to good working order. Mine is 1972 built and in really quite good order, just some issues I'm working on currently, has the belt high speed range, has a hydraulic copier, is a metric machine. You get spoiled though, it would be very hard to go back to using something not as good.
Max do you have a air compresure
Yes . But i do not blow machines down with it . 👍
You have had the profile gauge a while!
It was from my Fathers steel fabrication workshop a long time ago . 👍
Swan Valley is a long way from Porirua.@@swanvalleymachineshop
At 25:25 "19 mm, what are we at , 18.7 mm; 1.3 mm". ???? No .3 mm There is your error. 🙂
Lol , you are right . Just went back & had a look . Brain fade ! Thanks 👍
Oh shit!
🤣 you gotta love that he left that in. I did.
Upside down tool I thought all the tools in Australia worked upside down.....
If viewed from the International Space Station , it would look that way ! Even the water goes down the plug hole the other way ! 👍
The order of operations was off. The knurling should have been done right after the two (front and back) profiles were slightly cut. The knurls then would not have had such an abrupt beginning and end and would have looked more like the original. Great innovated job otherwise.
Thanks . But what if you stuffed the knurl , you would have scrapped the part . The profiling is easy , that is why it was done last . 👍
Now Max you do realize the double tracking is purely an expression of the diameter of your stock vs the diameter of your knurler. So as you apply more pressure your stock diameter will vary and the knurl will effectively come in and out of focus. So all the pre-examination is rather useless. You just gotta dial it in until they look crisp. Nice end result though for what it's worth.😊
That usually works in soft steel , most of the time . Brass is different . Do the approximate calculation & get it right & on size the first time with only one pass . 👍
So who worked for Porirua Engineering in New Zealand? Or was it the Aussies stealing again 🤣
Lol . It was my Fathers steel fabrication shop , with a machine shop area at the back ! Lol , Kapiti College was one of my stomping grounds back in the day ! 👍
Minge over?? i hope no Glaswegians are watching
Lol . Mushed over , must have been thinking of something else ! After all it is Friday here ! 👍