Ive been watching all ur videos ...from louisiana USA ...cant wait see evinrude 150 built and running and love ur little green boat and the new 40...keep up videos i love em
Really enjoying this project Stu! It's not something that I think I'll try, but I'm learning heaps of general principles. Might be a bit pedantic, but one tip for greasing o-rings that I've been taught is to push them through your fingers rather than pulling so they won't stretch. Looking forward to the next vid!
Just wanted to say thank you for your videos. You are very thorough in your instruction, and have inspired me to rebuild my V6 Jonson. Hope it all goes well. Keep up the good work, Mate.
Nice one again! Even me i was doing this last summer,my engine lost compression,i had to replace the rings...in fact not me was doing this actually...a mechanic was doing but me i helped...but he was putting me to replace the sealants which i was making them from a kind of very hard nd thick,fire resistant paper...i personaly was doing this,worked two days but i did it...
Great video Stu. I have an 89 Evinrude GT150 that I am slowly overhauling and will take the heads off at some point so this has been a great help. Cheers
love the share from fellow scribers mad watching you put that old evinrude from scratch surely raised my woke ness in engineering know how so thanks a bunch Dangar dude scriber from Mount Druitt NSW
You are brilliant! Your videos are very clear and informative. I've watched all of your videos on this engine - it's been like a soap opera for me (and I like soaps). You've got another subscriber! Well done. to you.
Thanks! Great video! You explain things really good! When installing the piston into the cylinder a short piece of fuel hose can be put over the lower rod bolt and over the crank shaft to guide the rod onto the crank shaft without having to hold the rod into the correct position. It gives the mechanic a free hand!
Another great video, thanks for sharing. Yours videos are always easy to watch and informative. It looks like fun, I think I need an outboard engine project for a hobby. By the way, you need to replace the battery in your wall clock 😀
Dangar Marine hey mate iv got an outboard thats starting to have some problems can u flick me an email please cheers im in Queensland and me email is killertato69@gmail.com
A tip on greasing your o-rings. Don't grease them the obvious way of pulling the ring and applying the grease, it will actually stretch the o-ring! Use a pushing motion while applying the grease.
Stu, a little trick for those bloody cylinder head O-rings. Clean the groove and the o-ring with solvent. I use alcohol on the o-ring unless I know for sure brake clean wont damage it. Get yourself some Loctite 401 or 495 instant adhesive (super glue) and just put a very small dot of glue every inch or so in the groove all the way round. Place your clean O-ring in the groove and it is fixed in place. Put your favorite grease on the ring (I use Vaseline ) and install your head. No worrying about the o-ring's coming out as you try and get the head in place and snugged down...works great.The trick is to use a very small dot of glue, just enough to see it is good.
Thanks for the tip! It's hard to see how a little dot of super glue is going to cause any trouble and getting all three to stay in long enough to get the head on sure is fiddly.
Can't wait for the crank install! Im wanting to try a rebuild myself with a midrange outboard. I found an older 55 suzuki 2 stk cheap. Once i looked parts up i cancelled buying it. zuke parts are high as hell in the states! Ill stick to Johnson or Merc I guess
You're videos are excellent tools. I'm rebuilding a 2000 Evinrude 175hp FICHT. Curious about how you installed the o-rings on these cylinders. On my heads, there is a groove around each cylinder where the old o-rings sat so I greased up my new o-rings and worked them into those grooves, completely opposite of how you set the o-rings in the cylinder on top of the pistons. Is it a difference in the individual motor block/head designs or did one of us do it wrong?
perfect videos great mechanic love to watch ur knowlege about that motors i have see a lot.wanna ask you what is tightening on the connecting rods on a jonhson 25 hp 1996 model im thiking to make a full repair on my motor.
Hey Stu.......Isn't that a quick release lever on your ring compressor ?? Was wondering why you kept using your ratchet to tighten.......but again......great video !!
Hi Rob. I tighten it a bit to take the pressure off the lever so you can pop it. You can squeeze it closed again with the lever off a bit but I just find it easier to use the ratchet.
Great informative video, 2 questions to confirm on my behalf, you mention exhaust writing on piston faces towards / closest to exhaust port of engine. Is it same for port side? My immediate guess is yes, but I'd rather be sure. Second question is in crank shaft next video.
am a new sub..and just started going thru the video backlog..and noticed the clock second hand seems to be stuck pulsing on the 9 position..my OCD is going overtime..could you fix that plz...i know crazy..but on a good note i dig your style and thoroughness in the videos..thx..
Hey Stu, How did you position the rings on the pistons and is it critical that the end gap path does not travel in it's stroke thru any of the ports. Nice work on the video's although I'm a little late to view.
Yeah, it certainly came down, this was filmed on that Friday about 4pm. It's starting to come together now but the more research I do into installing the Evinrude crankshafts the tougher I think it is going to be. Oh well, we'll find out tomorrow!
torque stages- for low torque values use 50 / 50 unless otherwise noted when you get to higher torques like 75 -ish use 3 stages of torque ie 25 /50 75
Danger Marine. Ralph from Texas. Really enjoy your videos. I purchased a used 1996 Johnson 150 Ocean runner. checked compression and all cylinders have 70 psi compression. Do you know the acceptable range of bore wear for the cylinders. and if out of spec, what oversize piston should I look at? if I do tackle this job, I will use your videos to do all the work. I like the sequecial order you film your videos by. Thanks mate!
Hi Ralph. You would normally be looking for at least 100 psi, but bear in mind that the compression tools you buy from stores aren't calibrated so what you are mostly looking for is a big difference in any one cylinder. General wear can reduce them all evenly though. To go up a piston size you will need to be the block machined and then the engineer will tell you what size piston you should move to to match the bore. He or she will generally go to the smallest over bore possible to get the cylinders back in good shape.
The water flows through the thermostat at one end (once it opens) then out the opening at the opposite end. That opening at the opposite end is quite large so much less prone to blocking up with excess silicon.
THanks mate. You can get t-shirts from here dangarmarine.com.au/collections/merchandise/products/dangar-marine-t-shirt The more the merrier on the board! ;)
Hi thanks for a great video, i have just done my head gasket, but when i was puling out thoose silicone dots i manage to loose 2 small dots into the Block. Do you think that it will cause an overheat issue ? Kind regards
I have a question? Maybe u can help me out, does the blowoff valve require a seal. Been looking around and it doesn't show one in the diagram. I replaced the old blowoff valve and it didn't have one.
Can loss of compression cause over heating? I've replace the water pump, thermostats, the starboard temp sensor and about to replace the head o-rings. Motor is still overheating when accelerating, why would this be?
@@DangarMarine I was just asking because I just installed my cylinder heads last night with the o-rings. I was wanting to make sure I was using the correct sealant. Thank you for your help
You should push an o-ring through your fingers instead of pulling them as some are tender and will stretch even under the lightest of touches. My background: maintenance on nuclear weapons, aircraft, and boats...
Hi mate, I watch all your videos, but have been paying extra attention to these evinrude ones because I thought it might give me some tips on a 1992 90hp v4 Johnson that I've got. I've done a lot to it, including replacing stator, new powerpack, timing by a mechanic, new cam rollers, new fuel pump, and various other things. Despite everything that has been done to it idling and starting have always been big problems, and the engine has always had a cough which results in a loss of power and stalling. The compression when I bought it was about 110 on all 4 cylinders. Recently I blew a head gasket (the day I was gonna take my boat over to the wooden boat festival) and the compression on that cylinder dropped way down. Even after replacing the gasket and ran the motor, the compression in that cylinder still around 85. Idling has always been an issue, and because of the loss of pressure, it's even more of an issue now. When you add the cough and loss of power, I'm stalling a lot at low revs, and it's tough to start. Because of the idling problems, when I start it and bring the throttle down, it is tough to get it into gear. I often have to jump it into gear and it's not very safe when there's multi million dollar yachts sitting around everywhere. Obviously eventually I might need to look at replacing the engine, but is there some way to keep it going a bit better in the short term? Do you know anything about the cough, or how I can raise the revs and improve the idle speed on this 1992 V4? I've looked at high speed jet screws etc, but this engine only seems to have orifices and apart from cleaning, I'm not sure if you can do anything there. The main idle screw is all the way in. I appreciate that you're a busy man, but any help would be appreciated.
It's seems odd that the idle screws are all the way in, does it get worse as you wind them out? The cough can often be caused by running lean. Upping the idle speed a little bit might help too but it is hard to say without seeing it. Having one cylinder down on compression is definitely a problem too, it would be good to get to the bottom of that. If you have replaced the head gasket then it is likely to be a ring problem on a two stroke. Have you also checked the reed valves behind the carburettors? Are they in good condition?
Thanks for your help, but it might be time to give up. I changed the head gasket and brought the pressure in that cylinder up from 40-90. There didn't seem to be any major scoring, rust or damage in the bore or anything.The first trip out after the repair was so so, but not really a massive problem save for a few ongoing issues, but today (a week later) when I tried to start it wouldn't even start. Compression is still the same, but it seems as if when the piston in the repaired cylinder hits a certain point, it jams up. Can't get it to start at the moment. Save for a full rebuild (which wouldn't be worth it on a 92 Johnson) I can't think of any other solution. New outboard time?
You may have a broken ring that is binding on the port. With the clean bore, it may be fixable, by pulling that piston and replacing the rings. On some models, you can pull the intake manifold and do it without splitting the block.
Tell me please. This issue should be put on the bearings front and rear running gear. Bearings dress hand without the press, they can sit on the anaerobic sealant or something else. Bearing made in Japan and Taiwan, the analogue gear?
On these pistons, the bearings for the little end are held in with those round clips. On the big end the bearings are in cages and the end cap is just torqued up with no thread lock.
Get rid of that hand-slicing adjustable ring compressor Stu. I hate those things. Tapered fixed ring compressor is the only way to go. If none available for the bore size you're working on, 20 mins on a lathe with a boring bar is time well spent.
The ratchets are too coarse, you never get it properly tight. Ive found its better to pull the piston through by pulling the conrod from inside the crankcase with one hand and compressing the rings with the other. That way you can feel if the ring hangs up. You dont have any feel with a hammer.
Help me Mr. Wizard, Stu, I have a 1978 15hp Johnson. The shift selector gear slides over the prop shaft and is locked in place with a spring and two BB sized round bearings that are installed in a through vertical hole in the prop shaft. Are you familiar with this gearbox and how to slide the prop shaft and selector back into the shift yolk saddle? The yolk pivots from underneath the prop shaft. I've never worked on anything like this before and I'm having trouble getting it back in. I have removed the selector yoke pivot bolt from the lower unit skeg located next to the drain plug for clearance. But it doesn't seem to allow enough room for a fit. My local Johnson mechanic hasn't got a clue and says he doesn't work on stuff that old. Thank God my Doctor doesn't say the same thing......:-)
I can't say I've ever done one of those so I'm not sure what the trick is. Have you had a go at looking for an old service manual on the internet? There are heaps of manuals available for download at PDFs, generally for under $10. I would try readmanual.com and tradebit.com to start with. Failing that there is a great Facebook group called Outboard Troubleshooter where you can pick the brains of many knowledgeable people.
Dangar Marine thank you. I got it done. I tied a zip tie around the shaft and secured the bb's and spring in place in the prop shaft. Added a thin layer of Grease over the shift dog splines on the shaft and slid the shift dog over the shaft. As the shift dog went into place the zip tie slide out of the way... thanks again, really appreciate the reply.
I think i would have heated up some water and put a little soap in it, It seems to be more effective in removing all the carborundum that is what i have found..
hey dangar. i have been a subscriber of yours a little over a year now. i would like to thank you for your educational videos and have helped me a ton with my boats. i live in united states and i would like to give you a little appreciation. do you have a way of receiving a small donation?
Hi mate, glad to hear the videos have been helping you with your boats. Donations are always greatly appreciated. :) The best way is to go to the channel page (ua-cam.com/users/DangarMarine) and you'll see there is a "Support this channel" button on the left. The good thing about doing it through UA-cam is that a small symbol will then appear next to any of your comments showing that you are a supporter of the channel.
Hi Stu i have a prob you might be able to solve for me , I have a new 20hp honda only used it a few times, twice when running at full speed i have had engine oil come out of the air box, it had the right amount of oil in the sump any help would be great thanks
Hi stu thanks for reply ,yes the oil came out from the crankcase breather tube into the air box ,i got the engine brand new it only has about 30 hours on it i brought it back to the dealer he said i had it in the wrong pin so the engine was at the wrong angle when running at top speed ,there is no fuel or water in the oil model of the engine is BF20D,I did change the prop from the stock 4 blade to a 3 blade and have since changed it back to the stock 4 blade but have not tested it yet would the diffrent prop have done it even tho the 3 blade prop was for a 20 honda thanks for your help
Hard to see how a prop would cause that. Being tilted too far can cause oil to run out, but only at very extreme angles. Boats are designed to rock and roll in the waves, it's not like they sit level all the time. How oil is ending up there? The whole point of the breather going to the airbox is that oily fumes are re-ingested and burnt so an oily smear there is normal.
hi there, i need some of you guys advice on buying a new Selva Marine Outboard which is Brand New from Factory with really cheap price but the catch is the engine is make in 2000 year. which mean the engine have been store in the warehouse more then 15 years. is it worth to take the risk of getting it ?
Parts of the outboard will be good as new, other parts not so much. Age will perish seals and the impeller. It may not have any corrosion issues if it is stored in packaging and will probably have a coating on most components. If you buy it I would be sure to give it a complete service before putting it to use. Will it come with a warranty? If so I'd say go for it.
actually i do bought selva 25hp have the same condition i mention in the first post. it is 2000 year manufacturer but have store in the warehouse more then 16 years. i found out it is very hard to start the engine using the pull start. it is taking about 5-10mins. once it started, it is much easy to re start it. however, after the next day when the engine totally cold down. it become hard to start again. pls advice me, is it anyway i can fix the issues? thanks
+Jamie Dykes Thank you! I'm glad you mentioned this because I'm at Evinrude right now and they have those o-rings in stock so I've bought a replacement one. I struggled quite a bit to get all the starboard ones to stay in long enough to get the head on so not entirely surprised about this given filming is a bit distracting.
Yeh they can be fiddly, i dont work on many boat engines that often mainly machinery, pumps compressors and gas turbines, on the compressor sets they are the same quite fiddly to get the top half of the casing on, we machined 2 long guide pins that screwed in to 2 of the bolt holes and were a close fot to the bolt holes on the top half casing they worked really well, mabey making a couple for fitting those heads would help. also with the o-rings i find that instaling them dry and then putting a smear of grease on the exposed area that mates to the head helps, i use this trick alot with CAT diesels and it works well, also i know your pain trying to talk to the camera i have been trying to make my own instructional vid for some time now and realising how much effort goes in to them, keep up the good work, love the chanell
I redid that port side this morning and it definitely takes a lot of fiddling to get all three o-rings to stay in place at the same time. I had a go at putting them in dry to start with because I was also thinking maybe the grease was making them slip out again but they seemed to pop out more dry. Anyway, they are in now so I'm glad it's fixed up. My plan is to do a compression test on each cylinder before firing it up just to make sure it's all okay. Fingers crossed it won't have to come off again!
A lot of the things you do are great and teaches well. In this case however OMG NOOOOOOoooo lol NEVER, not EVER use ring compressors like this on an outboard, you WILL sooner or later snap off the tips of the rings where they fit against the ring gap pin in every ring groove on every 2 cycle ever made. What do I mean? The compressor you are using is automotive. In a car engine the rings are just that, they have no stops because the rings move in circles as the engine runs. The ends of those rings are just flat, cut off ring material. ON AN OUTBOARD it is different. Because an outboard runs with holes in the cylinders (intake and exhaust ports), the rings have to NOT SPIN OR MOVE> The ends of the rings have to remain in one position where they cannot catch the ports in the cylinders. So... how do they work? each piston ring groove/slot has a small metal pin inserted and fixed in place. the ring itself then has the ends grooved into a half circle to fit around that pin, thereby holding the ring in place so it does not freely float around and catch /break by catching the cylinder port and then snapping off and destroy the piston and / or score the cylinder thereby destroying the engine... THE PROBLEM.... using that compressor when the ring is not exactly perfectly placed,,, (almost impossible to place rings correctly inside the compressor band,) will snap off the end of the ring and destroy it.... using a hammer guarantees it will happen... on a car it works but not here. all one needs to do to install pistons in an outboard is install rings by hand, put 2 cycle oil on piston and in cylinder and drop the piston into the hole/cylinder with the piston exhaust pointing to exhaust or arrow up going the correct way.... when the rings are in position, simply align the ring correctly to the pin and use your fingers to compress the ring, it will drop into the cylinder easily... repeat for the rest of the rings.
A bit off topic but wanted to ask you a question about a 2002 50HP Honda outboard manual relief valve for the tilt/trim. Parts list it as "no longer available" and the local parts guys say you need to buy the entire new hydraulic pump. Wonder if you have ever had to replace one and if so when and where?? Thanks Stu
i got a v6 Johnson for parts the v6 block is cracked i going to tare it apart to get to the block( i have a friend from trucking a welder that fixed blocks the one who fixed my old ford 400 it had no freeze plugs in back it cracked a few places the welder used a plastic heat seal it was on back side of block( he got cancer and died) not in side cylinder walls, willy i saw weld up block and sleeve it! i know air cooled cycle motors are sleeved out boards are water cooled from lake water this might not be save able to much damage! i have a evin-rude v6 ( supply by test place the guy who owned boat was paid threw ranger & motor maker) on my boat i needed parts the owner died by family relation i got it!
Please never use anything to wash bores except water and 2 stroke oil. When you suspend the abrasives from honing and deposit them deep into the hatch marks of the bore with solvents that evaporate it causes a less than ideal condition. Im not trying to be that guy but the manual was right they didnt stress how important it is tho. Proper bores are everything.
Thank you for the excellent explanations and details. Watching your video reminds me that on a 115 I did a while ago, I used a temporary sealant on the heads. I used what I had, and was anxious to get it running. I still need to go back and replace it with better stuff. Thanks for the reminder! Here is a shaky phone vid of the first full-bore holeshot with that motor: ua-cam.com/video/ZVvLdfMHkWQ/v-deo.html
Yes, she is very fast. Not sure of the absolute top speed yet, but well over 100 kph. I've only taken her out twice, so far. Still need to tune her in, but work keeps getting in the way.
If you decide to paint the motor, I HIGHLY recommend that you buy factory paint. Evinrude paint is hands-down the finest paint I have ever used, bar none. It is extremely tough, extremely glossy right out of the can, and is only $11.99 a can retail. I use Evinrude paint on Mercury and other brands, too, because the quality of the paint itself in unmatched. Get gasoline on Mercury Phantom black, and it bubbles and peels. The OMC paint just laughs at it, after its cured for a few days. I could go on, but you get the idea.
I know you were very careful, but using one of those ratcheting ring compressors is not a good idea on these engines. It can be quite difficult to get the rings lined up on the locater pins inside the compressor, then the rings move slightly as the compressor is tightened up....It is very easy to dislocate the rings and cause a lot of hidden damage, not always so easy to detect while tapping the piston down in that tight fitting compressor. I know, the OEM sleeve type compressors are costly, and might not even be available for the wiseco .040 over piston, but it is money well spent. Again, I know you were careful, but I don't want your viewers to think those ratcheting compressors are a good tool to use on the OMC outboards. I will have to check the OEM manual, but I truly disagree if it says to put those head bolts in "dry". Yes, I know adding some sealer to the threads might affect torque readings a bit, but not enough to account for anything. The OMC/Merc/Yamaha gasket sealer should be used on the threads and shanks of those head bolts to minimize corrosion build up and snapped off head bolts during future servicing. This engine uses SS head bolts which are better in terms of rust, but the dissimilar metals can really promote corrosion... Looks great so far, can't wait to hear her purring again, those 60 degree V6 engines are nice ones....
I'm sure there are better tools for the job than those one size fits all spring compressors, but I did find that on one occasion a ring didn't seat properly on the pin and it was very easy to see looking down into the compressor before beginning the process of installing it. I was a bit surprised too about the manual saying to install the bolts dry, but it was very explicit. I agree though that thinking about future corrosion problems is always a good thing when it comes to outboards!
Great videos! I love that you answer everybody's comments! That said, no need to answer this! Save it for another video!
I promise not to answer this comment. ;)
Ive been watching all ur videos ...from louisiana USA ...cant wait see evinrude 150 built and running and love ur little green boat and the new 40...keep up videos i love em
Thanks Dudley, I'm looking forward to seeing the Evinrude running again too!
Really enjoying this project Stu! It's not something that I think I'll try, but I'm learning heaps of general principles. Might be a bit pedantic, but one tip for greasing o-rings that I've been taught is to push them through your fingers rather than pulling so they won't stretch. Looking forward to the next vid!
Thanks Marty, interesting point you make about not stretching the o-rings.
Just wanted to say thank you for your videos. You are very thorough in your instruction, and have inspired me to rebuild my V6 Jonson. Hope it all goes well. Keep up the good work, Mate.
I really enjoy your videos. don't, own a boat still enjoy them keep up the good work.
Nice one again!
Even me i was doing this last summer,my engine lost compression,i had to replace the rings...in fact not me was doing this actually...a mechanic was doing but me i helped...but he was putting me to replace the sealants which i was making them from a kind of very hard nd thick,fire resistant paper...i personaly was doing this,worked two days but i did it...
Nice won Florin, it must have been satisfying to get it up and running again. :)
Great video Stu! She'll be running before you know it. Until then, I'm enjoying the journey leading up to it!
I'm looking forward to seeing this up and running too. Hopefully it will be back together this weekend.
Great video Stu. I have an 89 Evinrude GT150 that I am slowly overhauling and will take the heads off at some point so this has been a great help. Cheers
Thanks Phil, good luck with your engine. :)
love the share from fellow scribers mad watching you put that old evinrude from scratch surely raised my woke ness in engineering know how so thanks a bunch Dangar dude scriber from Mount Druitt NSW
You are brilliant! Your videos are very clear and informative. I've watched all of your videos on this engine - it's been like a soap opera for me (and I like soaps). You've got another subscriber! Well done. to you.
Thanks! Great video! You explain things really good!
When installing the piston into the cylinder a short piece of fuel hose can be put over the lower rod bolt and over the crank shaft to guide the rod onto the crank shaft without having to hold the rod into the correct position. It gives the mechanic a free hand!
Wow, enjoyed that video. Never seen engine rebuild so it was very interesting. You must have the patience of a saint. :)
Glad you enjoyed the vid, not sure I'm that patient though! ;)
Been waiting all week for this.Nice one Stu.
Thanks Matt. I think the owner feels the same way, time to rush this one up!
Another great video, thanks for sharing. Yours videos are always easy to watch and informative. It looks like fun, I think I need an outboard engine project for a hobby.
By the way, you need to replace the battery in your wall clock 😀
Thanks Andrew. There are always plenty of cheap old outboards to be found if you are looking for a rebuild project.
Andrew Fletcher haha, first thing I noticed too, poor second hand just stuck there flapping away, lol
Dangar Marine hey mate iv got an outboard thats starting to have some problems can u flick me an email please cheers im in Queensland and me email is killertato69@gmail.com
Nice video ,no need to impress anyone down to earth all the way , good mechanic , good person indeed.
Damn fine choice of beer mate👍
Hey Stu, great work on the video's and nice to see you are a coopers sparkling fan.
Hey Jason, can't beat a Coopers red!
I disagree , 2 or more are far better. :)
Excellent work Stu!
Thanks Will!
Truly great video. Thanks for sharing.
A tip on greasing your o-rings. Don't grease them the obvious way of pulling the ring and applying the grease, it will actually stretch the o-ring! Use a pushing motion while applying the grease.
Nice work stu as always
Thanks Dean!
yep, torque those head bolts, get the bubbles out,,lol,, love your videos, thanks for sharing.
Another fantastic video.. Cheers!
Good video.. I just melted the piston in my Johnson 90hp. On the fence of what to do with it.
Stu, a little trick for those bloody cylinder head O-rings. Clean the groove and the o-ring with solvent. I use alcohol on the o-ring unless I know for sure brake clean wont damage it. Get yourself some Loctite 401 or 495 instant adhesive (super glue) and just put a very small dot of glue every inch or so in the groove all the way round. Place your clean O-ring in the groove and it is fixed in place. Put your favorite grease on the ring (I use Vaseline ) and install your head. No worrying about the o-ring's coming out as you try and get the head in place and snugged down...works great.The trick is to use a very small dot of glue, just enough to see it is good.
Thanks for the tip! It's hard to see how a little dot of super glue is going to cause any trouble and getting all three to stay in long enough to get the head on sure is fiddly.
Hope it works for you. Nothing worst then pulling things apart two or three times trying to get the bloody O-rings to stay put in their grooves.
Can't wait for the crank install! Im wanting to try a rebuild myself with a midrange outboard. I found an older 55 suzuki 2 stk cheap. Once i looked parts up i cancelled buying it. zuke parts are high as hell in the states! Ill stick to Johnson or Merc I guess
Yeah, the cost of parts can certainly be a big part in the decision on which outboard to go for. I'm sure you'll enjoy doing the rebuilt. :)
GREAT VID MUKA,
Thanks. :)
You're videos are excellent tools. I'm rebuilding a 2000 Evinrude 175hp FICHT. Curious about how you installed the o-rings on these cylinders. On my heads, there is a groove around each cylinder where the old o-rings sat so I greased up my new o-rings and worked them into those grooves, completely opposite of how you set the o-rings in the cylinder on top of the pistons. Is it a difference in the individual motor block/head designs or did one of us do it wrong?
brave man lubing that compressor like. Been fileted a few times using those
Yeah, they can be a bit sharp, that's for sure.
Dangar Marine good videos tho. looking forward to seeing the evinrude on the water
perfect videos great mechanic love to watch ur knowlege about that motors i have see a lot.wanna ask you what is tightening on the connecting rods on a jonhson 25 hp 1996 model im thiking to make a full repair on my motor.
Hey Stu.......Isn't that a quick release lever on your ring compressor ?? Was wondering why you kept using your ratchet to tighten.......but again......great video !!
Hi Rob. I tighten it a bit to take the pressure off the lever so you can pop it. You can squeeze it closed again with the lever off a bit but I just find it easier to use the ratchet.
Great informative video, 2 questions to confirm on my behalf, you mention exhaust writing on piston faces towards / closest to exhaust port of engine. Is it same for port side? My immediate guess is yes, but I'd rather be sure. Second question is in crank shaft next video.
Great Video
Thanks!
am a new sub..and just started going thru the video backlog..and noticed the clock second hand seems to be stuck pulsing on the 9 position..my OCD is going overtime..could you fix that plz...i know crazy..but on a good note i dig your style and thoroughness in the videos..thx..
Excellent!
Thanks Alan.
Nice brewski
Thanks Jim! ;)
Hey Stu,
How did you position the rings on the pistons and is it critical that the end gap path does not travel in it's stroke thru any of the ports. Nice work on the video's although I'm a little late to view.
Neat job Stu...it's all happening now with the old 'rude hey ?
BTW that storm last Friday was like armageddon up here on the Coast....a bad one indeed
Yeah, it certainly came down, this was filmed on that Friday about 4pm. It's starting to come together now but the more research I do into installing the Evinrude crankshafts the tougher I think it is going to be. Oh well, we'll find out tomorrow!
you'll be fine mate...nice Wiseco sticker on the toolbox too
I have rebuilt my 1998. johnson 150 ficht! I installed 0.03in piston repair kit! Should I do any programming on oil and fuel dosing system?
torque stages- for low torque values use 50 / 50 unless otherwise noted
when you get to higher torques like 75 -ish use 3 stages of torque ie 25 /50 75
Sounds like a good rule of thumb to me.
Danger Marine. Ralph from Texas. Really enjoy your videos. I purchased a used 1996 Johnson 150 Ocean runner. checked compression and all cylinders have 70 psi compression. Do you know the acceptable range of bore wear for the cylinders. and if out of spec, what oversize piston should I look at? if I do tackle this job, I will use your videos to do all the work. I like the sequecial order you film your videos by. Thanks mate!
Hi Ralph. You would normally be looking for at least 100 psi, but bear in mind that the compression tools you buy from stores aren't calibrated so what you are mostly looking for is a big difference in any one cylinder. General wear can reduce them all evenly though. To go up a piston size you will need to be the block machined and then the engineer will tell you what size piston you should move to to match the bore. He or she will generally go to the smallest over bore possible to get the cylinders back in good shape.
Dangar Marine in the US 0.010 thousandths, then 0.020 thousandths, then 0.030 thousandths is common. They say 10 over, 20 over and 30 over.
How does water circulate and cool if it just stops at the head like that? Once that gallery fills up where does the water go?
The water flows through the thermostat at one end (once it opens) then out the opening at the opposite end. That opening at the opposite end is quite large so much less prone to blocking up with excess silicon.
Great video :) how do we go about getting one of the shirts? I want my photo on the board!! Haha
THanks mate. You can get t-shirts from here dangarmarine.com.au/collections/merchandise/products/dangar-marine-t-shirt The more the merrier on the board! ;)
Great vid Stu thanks, I appreciate the detailed instruction... sounds like storms down under...how has your summer been weather wise?
Thanks mate. It's been really hot this summer. There were a few days of storms over the weekend and it is a bit cool today thankfully.
love the vids .....but put a new battery in the clock bro lol
Thanks mate, I'll definitely look into that battery. ;)
I went looking at your shirts, Couldnt find one in my size. Looking for a 4x. You ship internationally . . .Yes?
I'll see if I can add 4XL. Shirt are printed in the US and sent to anywhere in the world.
What kind of silicone should I use for the head block! ?
thank you sir!
Hi thanks for a great video, i have just done my head gasket, but when i was puling out thoose silicone dots i manage to loose 2 small dots into the Block. Do you think that it will cause an overheat issue ? Kind regards
(lost to silicone dots into the small water ports on the head)
I have a question? Maybe u can help me out, does the blowoff valve require a seal. Been looking around and it doesn't show one in the diagram. I replaced the old blowoff valve and it didn't have one.
Can loss of compression cause over heating? I've replace the water pump, thermostats, the starboard temp sensor and about to replace the head o-rings. Motor is still overheating when accelerating, why would this be?
Did you use regular automotive black rtv on the cylinder heads?
Not normally. This engine had o-rings from memor but normally a head gasket has either nothing or a bit of hylomar on it.
@@DangarMarine I was just asking because I just installed my cylinder heads last night with the o-rings. I was wanting to make sure I was using the correct sealant. Thank you for your help
can you rebuild an engine without boring out the cylinders? are there rebuild kits that will allow a rebuild without boring out cylinders?
It is possible, but if the bores are worn you may go through a lot of trouble only to still have an engine with low compression.
You should push an o-ring through your fingers instead of pulling them as some are tender and will stretch even under the lightest of touches.
My background: maintenance on nuclear weapons, aircraft, and boats...
The little red thing for the oil.. what is that called?
Did you find out what caused it to burn the piston?
At 13:24 did you put the head on and pinch the cylinder o-ring?
@13:20 it looks like your o-ring popped out of the groove on the bottom cylinder !
On those thermostat seals... just slobber on em. They will press in by hand
Any solution that involves slobbering on things is okay with me! :)
Excellent again, thanks.
Any idea what you've got invested in the parts and machining, etc. (other than original cost of the motor)?
RichE
Thanks mate, all up it is about $3100 from memory.
Hello, can you please tell me the torque of the cylinder head and cylinder head of a force 120 HP 2-stroke engine year 1995
Still learning a lot from your videos. Was wondering if you were willing to offer some advice on an engine? :)
Sure, what did you need to know?
Hi mate, I watch all your videos, but have been paying extra attention to these evinrude ones because I thought it might give me some tips on a 1992 90hp v4 Johnson that I've got. I've done a lot to it, including replacing stator, new powerpack, timing by a mechanic, new cam rollers, new fuel pump, and various other things. Despite everything that has been done to it idling and starting have always been big problems, and the engine has always had a cough which results in a loss of power and stalling.
The compression when I bought it was about 110 on all 4 cylinders. Recently I blew a head gasket (the day I was gonna take my boat over to the wooden boat festival) and the compression on that cylinder dropped way down. Even after replacing the gasket and ran the motor, the compression in that cylinder still around 85. Idling has always been an issue, and because of the loss of pressure, it's even more of an issue now. When you add the cough and loss of power, I'm stalling a lot at low revs, and it's tough to start. Because of the idling problems, when I start it and bring the throttle down, it is tough to get it into gear. I often have to jump it into gear and it's not very safe when there's multi million dollar yachts sitting around everywhere.
Obviously eventually I might need to look at replacing the engine, but is there some way to keep it going a bit better in the short term? Do you know anything about the cough, or how I can raise the revs and improve the idle speed on this 1992 V4? I've looked at high speed jet screws etc, but this engine only seems to have orifices and apart from cleaning, I'm not sure if you can do anything there. The main idle screw is all the way in.
I appreciate that you're a busy man, but any help would be appreciated.
It's seems odd that the idle screws are all the way in, does it get worse as you wind them out? The cough can often be caused by running lean. Upping the idle speed a little bit might help too but it is hard to say without seeing it. Having one cylinder down on compression is definitely a problem too, it would be good to get to the bottom of that. If you have replaced the head gasket then it is likely to be a ring problem on a two stroke. Have you also checked the reed valves behind the carburettors? Are they in good condition?
Thanks for your help, but it might be time to give up. I changed the head gasket and brought the pressure in that cylinder up from 40-90. There didn't seem to be any major scoring, rust or damage in the bore or anything.The first trip out after the repair was so so, but not really a massive problem save for a few ongoing issues, but today (a week later) when I tried to start it wouldn't even start.
Compression is still the same, but it seems as if when the piston in the repaired cylinder hits a certain point, it jams up. Can't get it to start at the moment. Save for a full rebuild (which wouldn't be worth it on a 92 Johnson) I can't think of any other solution. New outboard time?
You may have a broken ring that is binding on the port. With the clean bore, it may be fixable, by pulling that piston and replacing the rings. On some models, you can pull the intake manifold and do it without splitting the block.
Tell me please. This issue should be put on the bearings front and rear running gear. Bearings dress hand without the press, they can sit on the anaerobic sealant or something else. Bearing made in Japan and Taiwan, the analogue gear?
I think perhaps Google translate hasn't done your question justice.
I have to say will keep the thread lock or other means. bearing on the pinion
On these pistons, the bearings for the little end are held in with those round clips. On the big end the bearings are in cages and the end cap is just torqued up with no thread lock.
I'm talking about the gearbox
or the vodka is stronger in his part of town. Sorry couldn't resist
Get rid of that hand-slicing adjustable ring compressor Stu. I hate those things. Tapered fixed ring compressor is the only way to go. If none available for the bore size you're working on, 20 mins on a lathe with a boring bar is time well spent.
Yes, I'm not a big fan of those ring compressors either. It's nice that they are one size fits all but that is about all they have going for them.
The ratchets are too coarse, you never get it properly tight.
Ive found its better to pull the piston through by pulling the conrod from inside the crankcase with one hand and compressing the rings with the other. That way you can feel if the ring hangs up. You dont have any feel with a hammer.
I think you are using a 4 stroke ring compressor
Help me Mr. Wizard, Stu, I have a 1978 15hp Johnson. The shift selector gear slides over the prop shaft and is locked in place with a spring and two BB sized round bearings that are installed in a through vertical hole in the prop shaft. Are you familiar with this gearbox and how to slide the prop shaft and selector back into the shift yolk saddle? The yolk pivots from underneath the prop shaft. I've never worked on anything like this before and I'm having trouble getting it back in. I have removed the selector yoke pivot bolt from the lower unit skeg located next to the drain plug for clearance. But it doesn't seem to allow enough room for a fit. My local Johnson mechanic hasn't got a clue and says he doesn't work on stuff that old. Thank God my Doctor doesn't say the same thing......:-)
I can't say I've ever done one of those so I'm not sure what the trick is. Have you had a go at looking for an old service manual on the internet? There are heaps of manuals available for download at PDFs, generally for under $10. I would try readmanual.com and tradebit.com to start with. Failing that there is a great Facebook group called Outboard Troubleshooter where you can pick the brains of many knowledgeable people.
Dangar Marine thank you. I got it done. I tied a zip tie around the shaft and secured the bb's and spring in place in the prop shaft. Added a thin layer of Grease over the shift dog splines on the shaft and slid the shift dog over the shaft. As the shift dog went into place the zip tie slide out of the way... thanks again, really appreciate the reply.
Where can i can find new pistons por a jonhson v6 vro 1980
My mind is blown; no head gasket?
I know, it's weird, just the o-rings.
Also would have done a white rag test just to make sure you have removed all the carborundum etc.
My engine is Evinrude 150hp 60g I turn it on and it takes a long time to lower the revolutions nesecito help.
I think i would have heated up some water and put a little soap in it, It seems to be more effective in removing all the carborundum that is what i have found..
is not necessary to hone the Cylinder before you put the Pistons in ?
Yes. This block had been bored and honed by the engineer.
What RTV sealant did you use?
Hi
I want to ask you where is gasket head?
I see only the silcon
This engine doesn't have one, only o-rings around each cylinder.
Helo Dangar. You now the geometric compresión ratio??. Example 9.5:1. For the 1996 OMC Ocean Runner 175 hp. Thanks you. From Uruguay 🇺🇾🇺🇾🇺🇾🇺🇾🇺🇾🇺🇾🇺🇾
I don't, sorry. :(
Tengo un evinrude 115 v4 tuve problema en un silindro lo honie y quedo con juego q podria aser
Did you get the heads machined as well?
The heads went off to the engineer who has measured them for flatness and found them to be fine so they didn't need to be machined.
hey dangar. i have been a subscriber of yours a little over a year now. i would like to thank you for your educational videos and have helped me a ton with my boats. i live in united states and i would like to give you a little appreciation. do you have a way of receiving a small donation?
Hi mate, glad to hear the videos have been helping you with your boats. Donations are always greatly appreciated. :) The best way is to go to the channel page (ua-cam.com/users/DangarMarine) and you'll see there is a "Support this channel" button on the left. The good thing about doing it through UA-cam is that a small symbol will then appear next to any of your comments showing that you are a supporter of the channel.
Dangar Marine when I try this I get an error message. is there any other way to the site?
Should you have shown
piston (ring gap) inspection.
I think I do it in this much older video, but the quality isn't great ua-cam.com/video/tFddlbPwC5U/v-deo.html
Hi Stu i have a prob you might be able to solve for me , I have a new 20hp honda only used it a few times, twice when running at full speed i have had engine oil come out of the air box, it had the right amount of oil in the sump any help would be great thanks
What model is it? Is it coming through the crankcase breather hose into the airbox? If drain the oil, does it look normal? ie, no fuel or water in it?
Hi stu thanks for reply ,yes the oil came out from the crankcase breather tube into the air box ,i got the engine brand new it only has about 30 hours on it i brought it back to the dealer he said i had it in the wrong pin so the engine was at the wrong angle when running at top speed ,there is no fuel or water in the oil model of the engine is BF20D,I did change the prop from the stock 4 blade to a 3 blade and have since changed it back to the stock 4 blade but have not tested it yet would the diffrent prop have done it even tho the 3 blade prop was for a 20 honda thanks for your help
Hard to see how a prop would cause that. Being tilted too far can cause oil to run out, but only at very extreme angles. Boats are designed to rock and roll in the waves, it's not like they sit level all the time. How oil is ending up there? The whole point of the breather going to the airbox is that oily fumes are re-ingested and burnt so an oily smear there is normal.
Thanks for your anwser going to try the engine more level with the stock prop if it happens again back to the dealer
hi there, i need some of you guys advice on buying a new Selva Marine Outboard which is Brand New from Factory with really cheap price but the catch is the engine is make in 2000 year. which mean the engine have been store in the warehouse more then 15 years.
is it worth to take the risk of getting it ?
Parts of the outboard will be good as new, other parts not so much. Age will perish seals and the impeller. It may not have any corrosion issues if it is stored in packaging and will probably have a coating on most components. If you buy it I would be sure to give it a complete service before putting it to use. Will it come with a warranty? If so I'd say go for it.
thanks for the reply, unfortunately the outboard do not cover any warranty. what is the worst case of scenario i might encounter?
actually i do bought selva 25hp have the same condition i mention in the first post. it is 2000 year manufacturer but have store in the warehouse more then 16 years. i found out it is very hard to start the engine using the pull start. it is taking about 5-10mins. once it started, it is much easy to re start it. however, after the next day when the engine totally cold down. it become hard to start again.
pls advice me, is it anyway i can fix the issues?
thanks
RTV = silicone ?
Damian Mansfield silicone gasket maker
Yep, same thing.
Some of you may not know this one it rain God is crying When the wind is blowing God has a cold
Puedo tener una camicilla. .30 y otra .4o en evinrude 115 v4
The number 6 cylnder oring on the port side wasent located properly! Check the vid youll see
+Jamie Dykes Thank you! I'm glad you mentioned this because I'm at Evinrude right now and they have those o-rings in stock so I've bought a replacement one. I struggled quite a bit to get all the starboard ones to stay in long enough to get the head on so not entirely surprised about this given filming is a bit distracting.
Yeh they can be fiddly, i dont work on many boat engines that often mainly machinery, pumps compressors and gas turbines, on the compressor sets they are the same quite fiddly to get the top half of the casing on, we machined 2 long guide pins that screwed in to 2 of the bolt holes and were a close fot to the bolt holes on the top half casing they worked really well, mabey making a couple for fitting those heads would help. also with the o-rings i find that instaling them dry and then putting a smear of grease on the exposed area that mates to the head helps, i use this trick alot with CAT diesels and it works well, also i know your pain trying to talk to the camera i have been trying to make my own instructional vid for some time now and realising how much effort goes in to them, keep up the good work, love the chanell
I redid that port side this morning and it definitely takes a lot of fiddling to get all three o-rings to stay in place at the same time. I had a go at putting them in dry to start with because I was also thinking maybe the grease was making them slip out again but they seemed to pop out more dry. Anyway, they are in now so I'm glad it's fixed up. My plan is to do a compression test on each cylinder before firing it up just to make sure it's all okay. Fingers crossed it won't have to come off again!
Yuo are very good
A lot of the things you do are great and teaches well. In this case however OMG NOOOOOOoooo lol NEVER, not EVER use ring compressors like this on an outboard, you WILL sooner or later snap off the tips of the rings where they fit against the ring gap pin in every ring groove on every 2 cycle ever made.
What do I mean? The compressor you are using is automotive. In a car engine the rings are just that, they have no stops because the rings move in circles as the engine runs. The ends of those rings are just flat, cut off ring material.
ON AN OUTBOARD it is different. Because an outboard runs with holes in the cylinders (intake and exhaust ports), the rings have to NOT SPIN OR MOVE> The ends of the rings have to remain in one position where they cannot catch the ports in the cylinders. So... how do they work?
each piston ring groove/slot has a small metal pin inserted and fixed in place. the ring itself then has the ends grooved into a half circle to fit around that pin, thereby holding the ring in place so it does not freely float around and catch /break by catching the cylinder port and then snapping off and destroy the piston and / or score the cylinder thereby destroying the engine...
THE PROBLEM.... using that compressor when the ring is not exactly perfectly placed,,,
(almost impossible to place rings correctly inside the compressor band,) will snap off the end of the ring and destroy it.... using a hammer guarantees it will happen... on a car it works but not here.
all one needs to do to install pistons in an outboard is install rings by hand, put 2 cycle oil on piston and in cylinder and drop the piston into the hole/cylinder with the piston exhaust pointing to exhaust or arrow up going the correct way.... when the rings are in position, simply align the ring correctly to the pin and use your fingers to compress the ring, it will drop into the cylinder easily... repeat for the rest of the rings.
Did not know that outboards do not use a head gasket....
This is more an Evinrude thing than an outboard thing as such. Every other outboard I've worked has had a traditional head gasket.
A bit off topic but wanted to ask you a question about a 2002 50HP Honda outboard manual relief valve for the tilt/trim. Parts list it as "no longer available" and the local parts guys say you need to buy the entire new hydraulic pump. Wonder if you have ever had to replace one and if so when and where?? Thanks Stu
i got a v6 Johnson for parts the v6 block is cracked i going to tare it apart to get to the block( i have a friend from trucking a welder that fixed blocks the one who fixed my old ford 400 it had no freeze plugs in back it cracked a few places the welder used a plastic heat seal it was on back side of block( he got cancer and died) not in side cylinder walls, willy i saw weld up block and sleeve it! i know air cooled cycle motors are sleeved out boards are water cooled from lake water this might not be save able to much damage! i have a evin-rude v6 ( supply by test place the guy who owned boat was paid threw ranger & motor maker) on my boat i needed parts the owner died by family relation i got it!
That's probably expensive job to do ?
It isn't cheap, but the motor is still worth a lot more.
And then at 10:18 You suddenly do it lol
Please never use anything to wash bores except water and 2 stroke oil. When you suspend the abrasives from honing and deposit them deep into the hatch marks of the bore with solvents that evaporate it causes a less than ideal condition. Im not trying to be that guy but the manual was right they didnt stress how important it is tho. Proper bores are everything.
Thank you for the excellent explanations and details.
Watching your video reminds me that on a 115 I did a while ago, I used a temporary sealant on the heads. I used what I had, and was anxious to get it running. I still need to go back and replace it with better stuff. Thanks for the reminder!
Here is a shaky phone vid of the first full-bore holeshot with that motor:
ua-cam.com/video/ZVvLdfMHkWQ/v-deo.html
Goes like a rocket! Must have a well matched prop to get up on the plane so fast too. :)
Yes, she is very fast. Not sure of the absolute top speed yet, but well over 100 kph. I've only taken her out twice, so far. Still need to tune her in, but work keeps getting in the way.
paint the block before u move on! :D
I like your thinking!
do a video of it if u do paint it :D
If you decide to paint the motor, I HIGHLY recommend that you buy factory paint. Evinrude paint is hands-down the finest paint I have ever used, bar none. It is extremely tough, extremely glossy right out of the can, and is only $11.99 a can retail. I use Evinrude paint on Mercury and other brands, too, because the quality of the paint itself in unmatched. Get gasoline on Mercury Phantom black, and it bubbles and peels. The OMC paint just laughs at it, after its cured for a few days. I could go on, but you get the idea.
i am not sure, but i think he didnt paint the block. as he already assembled and started it.
I know you were very careful, but using one of those ratcheting ring compressors is not a good idea on these engines. It can be quite difficult to get the rings lined up on the locater pins inside the compressor, then the rings move slightly as the compressor is tightened up....It is very easy to dislocate the rings and cause a lot of hidden damage, not always so easy to detect while tapping the piston down in that tight fitting compressor. I know, the OEM sleeve type compressors are costly, and might not even be available for the wiseco .040 over piston, but it is money well spent. Again, I know you were careful, but I don't want your viewers to think those ratcheting compressors are a good tool to use on the OMC outboards. I will have to check the OEM manual, but I truly disagree if it says to put those head bolts in "dry". Yes, I know adding some sealer to the threads might affect torque readings a bit, but not enough to account for anything. The OMC/Merc/Yamaha gasket sealer should be used on the threads and shanks of those head bolts to minimize corrosion build up and snapped off head bolts during future servicing. This engine uses SS head bolts which are better in terms of rust, but the dissimilar metals can really promote corrosion... Looks great so far, can't wait to hear her purring again, those 60 degree V6 engines are nice ones....
I'm sure there are better tools for the job than those one size fits all spring compressors, but I did find that on one occasion a ring didn't seat properly on the pin and it was very easy to see looking down into the compressor before beginning the process of installing it. I was a bit surprised too about the manual saying to install the bolts dry, but it was very explicit. I agree though that thinking about future corrosion problems is always a good thing when it comes to outboards!
Never ever use that type of ring compressor 😢
Forgot to send video of bearing carrier removal ..I think you'll empathise- ua-cam.com/video/Eq4tCXWB71w/v-deo.html
Ah yes, I remember this. I had watched it and commented on it quite a while ago. Nice work!
Please tell our young viewers to look properly at the slots for the piston rings you obviously did but if you are new it will go wrong
👍🏻🇨🇦
no warm water or soap? haha hope you use lots of deodorant
Hey I posted a video on my page channel about a ruff running Evinrude, think you could take a look and maybe point me In a direction
I'd start will all the basics: carb clean and check for quality of spark.
Dangar Marine what about all that steam?
If it is blowing a lot of steam then it could be a blown head gasket allowing cooling water to enter the combustion chamber.
Dangar Marine damn alright I'll run through it