Nicest guy I've ever seen on youtube! A great teacher and actually replies even though it must me overwhelming at times. Best boat/outboard channel BAR NONE
i guess im randomly asking but does someone know a method to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost the password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Will Ezra i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
After 10 attempts.... I FINALLY got the connecting rod on the piston of my johnson 9.9 because of those little needle bearings! Couldn't have done it without your video! Thanks,Enjoy all your videos>>>>subscribed
I am about to attempt to rebuild an Evinrude 175 that has a zero compression cylinder. This will be beyond the scope of work I've done previously and have never replaced pistons. I would have never thought of anything you've shown in this video and you likely just saved my project. Your videos are always quality and informative but this one was one of the best for what I'm about to take on. Can't thank you enough.
Great video Stu. You can never go wrong with original manufacturers gaskets, seals and adhesives. Enjoying the engine build up. I look forward to the next video!
@Dangar Marine... I know this is an old video but your channel is unparalleled. I LOVE tinkering on boats and outboards. I'd work in your shop for a week for free to learn a little more from you. (That's more of a statement than an offer because I'm in the States lol) I'm sure there's lots of mundane work (bilge pumps, wiring shorts, lights, switches etc...) that you don't show but I LOVE doing that stuff. There's nothing more satisfying than looking at wire connectors, heat shrinks and color coded zip ties when you're finished with stuff like that and making it look better than the loose wires from the boat manufacturer!! I truly appreciate your attention to detail. Obviously fixing an issue is the goal but neat and tucked wires, clean oil/fuel hoses & clamps when you're finished, are true craftsmanship. Thanks for the videos!!! I've an 86' Johnson GT 200 I may be tearing down depending on what the shop says about the Carbs but I suspect it's been running lean in a cyl or maybe 2, similar to this one, but we'll see in a few days.
Some myths never die. Putting oil hole up on the connecting rod is one of them. The oil hole actually is a cause of early bearing failure. As an engineer on Johnson/Evinrude motors I tested those rods without oil holes back in the 198's. Do not worry if you have rods turned randomly. I like your videos. They are very detailed and clear.
Hey Stu, Good on you for making these clips for the world to see and learn. Marine Mechanics bred and butter on UA-cam. Theses OMC outboards deserve it. Built to last. I used permatex 518 anaerobic sealant for the cases and RTV 106 for the heads with great success.
You make me appreciate my boat mechanic when I had the exact same hole in a piston. Mine was a Suzuki DT150, 1987 year. He completely rebuilt it. So your video is giving me a pretty good view of what he did. Thanks, and a very good series, from diagnostic , then from start to rebuilding... Great teaching in your explanations.
Love this. I have the same engine on a 20ft Grady White. Our big problem has been the fuel pump. I'm looking forward to watching the rest of the videos on this engine.
I’m familiar with silicone sealants. Most have an advertised temp rating which is for short term exposure. All have a lower continuous temperature rating. Just read the label. All the manufacturers include both ratings on their labeling. Just something to remember when selecting a sealant. I enjoy your posts. Their very informative. Your a good teacher.
Hi, just wondering who did the rebore, new liners and pistons. I also have a 150 that needs major work, also an approx cost of rebore and pistons, thank you
Great 2 stroke tips. Over the years working on Harley's, Triumphs and four strokes in general, what I've done is put the pistons in the oven for a while and the gudgeon/wrist pins in the freezer if I don't have any dry ice available. That way when you assemble it and push the gudgeon/ wrist pin into the bush it fits in quickly and smoothly, no forcing involved; it's a trick I learned in the Merchant Marine. It used to drive my wife crazy when she'd come in the house and there would be pistons in the oven.
Very nice videos (this is the second on this motor I've watched so far). Your explanations are good and your filming of the little details (like the stampings/markings) and getting the camera to focus on them is commendable (there are too many videos that blur through the details). Thanks for taking the time and effort to make and post these videos.
Just started watching for outboards and love this channel so far. From the states and work for a major brand commercial food equipment service company. Wanted to comment on the permatex #2. We use it often in transmissions of mixers and such. It can be super messy, but it doesn't harden up and contains grease at seams like no other. We usually get it at the auto parts store but sometimes you do have to search to find it on the shelf. Really enjoy learning about the marine motors and love the teaching methods and explanations that are used in your videos.
Just found your channel. I needed to say thank you for sharing your knowledge. I enjoy and take pride in doing as much of the work I can myself and your videos will be an immense help in doing so.
Have used threebond1207b on vehicle exhaust manifolds, rocker cover gaskets etc with great success, fantastic product and was heavily used at the Nissan/Mazda dealership I used to work for.
I have since had ThreeBond TB1184 recommended to me which I might go for, but I have no doubt that the 1207 will get used up, perhaps on the cars we work on as you mention.
nice to see you back at it man!..fyi..beware that with wiseco forged pistons,usually a longer warm up period is needed as they expand faster than the sleeves generally...sorry,dont mean to seem belittling,just have found out things the hard way..lol..you young guys are smart nowadays!
Stu, hands down the best gasket maker I've ever used is Permatex 85144 in the self dispensing can. I find it's the easiest to use product and produces a harder than average but still rubbery gasket that sets up very quickly. It also comes off in 1 piece without scraping.
i am from tassie and there is some good spots people go to margate jetty ,tinder box, south arm and cremorne have been good the last couple weeks . have fun with our lovely weather by the way
Hi Stu, what an education. They are a bit tricky to overhaul not like an auto engine for sure. It would be easy to make a mistake in assembly for sure.
I like to use a short socket that fits in the piston to hold the needle bearings in place while I push the wristpin through. Those Wiseco pistons tend to expand as they heat up, its better the gap was on the fat side
When I did these in the past I had a short section of pin which I left in the conrod to hold the needles in place. The new pin then pushed this out on assembly and all the needles remain in place. My short section of Pin was just a piece of brass bar turned to size.
1- love your videos 2- this is the overheated/cracked piston from the .030 oversize ? 3- this cylinder probably overheated from not adjusting the ring gaps correctly prior to installation considering there was no overheat damage to any of the other cyls- or a clogged / lean carb. 4- when doing a build like this- take a dead wristpin, sand a bullet/ tapered end on one end and make it into a guide tool for inserting the new wristpin into the bearings and aligning the piston and con rod and bearing assy 5- use another dead wristpin as a snap ring insertion tool 6- in fact, in any business like this make a habit of making useful / time efficient tools from ALL the parts you've removed. i do. any pin, bolt or shaft of sorts can be made into a tool to insert or guide the new parts or hardware into place. it's already the perfect size and can be modified for the specific job.
Hi mate, yes, the bad piston was already 0.030 over from memory. Keeping bits and pieces from old outboards to make custom tools is a good way to go. I always keep the old drive shafts, they make great punches!
3M High Temperature RTV is very good if you can get it. Hylomar is a good product as well, use it on Aircraft Engines all the time. Cleaning is the key to good lasting seals and joints, brake clean first and then final clean with acetone. That needle bearing grease is a rip off, vaseline works fine.
You are dead right about it all being about surface prep. Fortunately that grease wasn't too expensive, but I'm sure there are many cheap alternatives. The manufacturers love to tell you that nothing but their product will do the job. Very frustrating!
I use Rocol Sappire Molybdenum grease on the rollers when I do a rebuild. This burnishes Moly into the metal and significantly reduces friction and therefor heat.
Great video Stu very informative those needle bearings can be a pain in the arse. I don't know how you Aussies deal with that heat, I'm melting when it hits 30c.
There are actually a lot of little things that can go wrong. I suspect the engine would run for a while and you wouldn’t know. It explains to me why the power head I bought didn’t last but one season. The guy was a garage builder not a true pro.
there is a very simple trick to get those pins through the piston. get a plug with the same diameter as the pin. cut it to length of the bracket in the piston. as you slowly back the pin out out of the rollers you slide the plug in it's place. once it is lined up you push the pin into place and push the plug out. the rollers never have room to collapse. contact me if you need more info. it can save you hours and is not affected by temperature.
I cut an old pin to hold the needles in place then slip the new pin thru which pushes the old cut one out. I put both clips on last- again using an old pin to help seat the clip. Still it can be a pain. I prefer the caged bearings.
I heard that the Eteck or was that the Vteck oil injected engine was always a problem with lubrication and fuel mixtures, running lean on both oil and fuel at certain revs causing engine melt downs and one of the reasons that Evinrude OMC went broke. I was told to avoid the later ones made in America. I also heard if you did have one, larger fuel jets and running premix was the way to go. I was also told the latest Evinrude's were better because they were made by Suzuki. I am no expert on outboards after a Chrysler 35 and a Merc 150 inline 6, I prefer inboard. My last was a 502 Chev twin Gentry turbo on LPG jet boat... real fun!
Evinrudes are now made by BRP of Canada and I think it is the FICHT motors you are thinking of that were Evinrude's last before they went bankrupt. It's a shame they didn't get a chance to perfect the technology because this is what went on to become etec in the end.
Motor mechanic to doctor:”We do basically same job.....we change damaged parts with new ones” Doctor to motor mechanic :” You do it with the motor still running like I do.”
The dreaded 2 stroke!Motor head for 45 plus years.Used to build blown injected big block CHEVYS for hydro plane race boats.Love the show!PS.Where do i get one of your shirts?
if I have an old outboard that is working fine and I just want to do a rebuild. can I change all the bearings and pistons and all the gaskets and oil seals without machining out the cylinder? this is assuming that the cylinder wall is in very good condition.
G'day Stu. Totally off topic, but how about checking the valve clearances on your BF40 some time. It would be a great help for me as i'm wanting to check my BF50. Although I have good compression they are well overdue a check. One of your 'how to' guides would help my confidence. Anyway mate. Love your vids. Keep up the good work.
I’m working on a E40hp. Took a drift and hammer to get the wrist pins out. And same to get back in (on my practice piston from donor motor). Do some engines need to be pressed in versus that easy slide in on the 150?
If you are going for a great RTV, I cant recommend enough Loctite 5920. The three bond is good and will do the job on a clean surface, but the Loctite I have had work where it probably shouldn't. (I got caught once with a blown head gasket and HAD to be somewhere so a tube of 5920 and a couple of brazing rods for compression rings made a new gasket for my Brumby. and it stayed like that longer than I am willing to admit.)
Stu I have to ask you how many hours on this 150 hp engine? You are doing a good job of going through the main machining of the engine. Replace and re machine all you must do.
just trying to figure out do you offset the top ring gap from the bottom , and I only seen a dial for the top ring , is their a dial for the second piston ring ?
hi stu great video i just have a question about torque settings for big end conrod bolts on 75hp mercury 4cyl 2 stroke 1985 model as i haven't been able to find them anywhere I'm in process of changing crank out any help would be very useful thanks matt
+matthew brunne I don't have the service manual for that motor but have you taken a look on readmanual.com and tradebit.com to see if they have one for download?
OMG!!! Hope I never ever have to this "NASA" job!!! Great vid and job tho, love to see ppl who knows what they doing cuz my brain went blank and got a "blue screen" at the end. :D
I'm not familiar with Three Bond products. They weren't around when I was buying/using RTV-type sealants. I remember Loctite brand, and there were your typical house-brands (private label stuff) made by goodness knows who... I doubt that an outboard motor would ever experience 330C short of driving a boat off of a waterfall and landing in hell, lol. If it's already bought and paid for, give the higher-temp stuff a whirl. It all cures at room temp anyways. Love that vinegar smell it gives off. Can't wait to see this old girl running. Have fun down in Tasmania. Don't forget the sunscreen. How is your Wi-Fish thingamajig working, no more connection issues?
Hey Stan, yes, I will be monitoring the temp of this motor was we go for our first few runs and I hope we don't end up off a waterwall and into hell! Still, it would make a great vid. ;) The Wi-Fish is going well. It connects every time now and gives incredibly clear images, I'm really happy with it.
Next engine u build and have to bore cylinders try going 3 thousands extra for clearance I have been working on boat motors since I was 15 years old trust me u will thank me
great vid as always. My friend swears by only using permatex silicone for high temps. we put jb weld brand on and it sucked. Possible user error but had no problems with permatex. I went fishing yesterday and the outboard ran like crap. on your honda or yamm vid you said its recommended to change the tstat gasket anytime you take off housing. I learned the hard way. I took it off a week ago to look for debris and put it back on. had a decent leak while on the water and i have an air leak somewhere in the fuel lines. Gas was dripping out below the fuel filter after the fuel pump and before carbs. Put a merc ziptie and its still leaking enough to stall the engine at all times. Turns out one of my stat thread hole is stripped and wont tighten all the way. Should i tap or just put sealant on bolt? And will the sealant even work with the hole being stripped? I tried one of the other bolts so its definitely not the bolt. Thanks and can't wait for the rest of this rebuild!
jimbo gasoline Helicoil is just a brand name...just Google thread repair kits and you will get all kinds of different brands. The kits generally contain a drill bit, special tap, thread coils and and insertion tool. Drill the old stripped hole bigger, tap new threads with special tap, insert thread coil, done. Hole is now back to original bolt size with new threads. You need to know what size bolt and thread pitch to get the right kit.
I agree with this comment, a thread repair kit is the way to go. I put a couple in my old Yamaha because the bolts stripped before it got to the right torque setting. Once they were in it was fine. I will do a video on them soon. :)
It's a tough call with outboards. A 150 like this is probably worth money, but I did a bit of work for a friend on a 15 recently and it didn't take long at all for the cost of the parts to be equal to a second hand motor of the same size.
I saw this lady on U tube using Vaseline (100% pure petroleum jelly) to use on the needle bearings to hold them in place installing them to the piston. She said it will dissolve with no problem. It cost about $2 for a small jar at Walmart. I am using that to put one piston on that I had to replace. Then shoot it with plenty of 2 cycle oil, and I think it will be fine. I saw in my manual that for up to 1986 the Johnson rings are gapped at .007 to .017. Then 87 after the gap is .019 to .031. The rings I bought for my 86 90 hp Johnson gapped at about .025. Kind of worried about having wrong rings. Asked an Old mechanic at a Johnson parts/repair shop. He said all the rings will be made for the higher gaps on all the engines even those prior to 87. He said the lower gapped rings were bouncing against the ring retaining pins once they expanded, and the gap was not that critical as long as it is not over the later year specs.
Just used Vaseline to install piston to rod. It works really good. Just smeared a little Vaseline inside the rod and stacked the bearings around it with the rear retaining washer held in place to keep bearings straight. Then sat piston upside down with the wrist pin inserted enough to insert the front washer. It was then easy to line up rod so wrist pin slide right through. You really don't need grease for lubrication as the 2 cycle oil will take care of that. It is just used to keep bearings in place for installation. You are right Stu about the Gel Seal II. It is just anaerobic(hardens absent air) gasket sealer. Permatex makes it #51813. I saw a large tube 1.69 oz. at a boat shop for $20. A bit outrageous. Auto zone sells the same tube for $8. It hardens soon after air is removed from it. So once you install crankcase cover you need to torque it as soon as possible so it does not begin to harden and make a shim effect. If you have to take the crankcase seal off for whatever reason, you would likely need to clean all the anaerobic off and reapply.
I have heard that Vaseline will do the job, but that tube will probably last about ten years with the number of two strokes we rebuild and when it is for a customer you are kinda forced to use the right stuff all the time. Having said that, I would be 99.9% sure that Vaseline would be just fine so it is a great choice for anyone going the DIY route. You are dead right about needing to remove all the sealant and reapply fresh stuff if you ever separate the crank case again.
Nicest guy I've ever seen on youtube! A great teacher and actually replies even though it must me overwhelming at times. Best boat/outboard channel BAR NONE
+bigfat hotdog Thanks mate, glad you are enjoying the channel. :)
i guess im randomly asking but does someone know a method to get back into an instagram account??
I was dumb lost the password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Sonny Ronin Instablaster :)
@Will Ezra i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Will Ezra it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my ass !
After 10 attempts.... I FINALLY got the connecting rod on the piston of my johnson 9.9 because of those little needle bearings! Couldn't have done it without your video! Thanks,Enjoy all your videos>>>>subscribed
Hey Steve, glad you got it sorted in the end. They sure are fiddly. Thank for subscribing! :)
I am about to attempt to rebuild an Evinrude 175 that has a zero compression cylinder. This will be beyond the scope of work I've done previously and have never replaced pistons. I would have never thought of anything you've shown in this video and you likely just saved my project. Your videos are always quality and informative but this one was one of the best for what I'm about to take on. Can't thank you enough.
Great video Stu. You can never go wrong with original manufacturers gaskets, seals and adhesives. Enjoying the engine build up. I look forward to the next video!
Agreed. Spend the extra money for BRP gaskets. Aftermarket sucks for these Johnson/Evinrudes.
Thanks mate, it's getting there slowly, but I also feel more confident working with the right parts.
@Dangar Marine... I know this is an old video but your channel is unparalleled. I LOVE tinkering on boats and outboards. I'd work in your shop for a week for free to learn a little more from you. (That's more of a statement than an offer because I'm in the States lol) I'm sure there's lots of mundane work (bilge pumps, wiring shorts, lights, switches etc...) that you don't show but I LOVE doing that stuff. There's nothing more satisfying than looking at wire connectors, heat shrinks and color coded zip ties when you're finished with stuff like that and making it look better than the loose wires from the boat manufacturer!! I truly appreciate your attention to detail. Obviously fixing an issue is the goal but neat and tucked wires, clean oil/fuel hoses & clamps when you're finished, are true craftsmanship. Thanks for the videos!!! I've an 86' Johnson GT 200 I may be tearing down depending on what the shop says about the Carbs but I suspect it's been running lean in a cyl or maybe 2, similar to this one, but we'll see in a few days.
Hey Jared, glad to hear you've been enjoying the vids. Good luck with your GT200! :)
Some myths never die. Putting oil hole up on the connecting rod is one of them. The oil hole actually is a cause of early bearing failure. As an engineer on Johnson/Evinrude motors I tested those rods without oil holes back in the 198's. Do not worry if you have rods turned randomly. I like your videos. They are very detailed and clear.
Hey Stu, Good on you for making these clips for the world to see and learn.
Marine Mechanics bred and butter on UA-cam. Theses OMC outboards deserve it.
Built to last. I used permatex 518 anaerobic sealant for the cases and RTV 106 for the heads with great success.
Thanks mate, appreciate you mentioning the sealants. Always good to hear what has worked for people in the past.
You make me appreciate my boat mechanic when I had the exact same hole in a piston. Mine was a Suzuki DT150, 1987 year.
He completely rebuilt it. So your video is giving me a pretty good view of what he did. Thanks, and a very good series, from diagnostic , then from start to rebuilding...
Great teaching in your explanations.
Love this. I have the same engine on a 20ft Grady White. Our big problem has been the fuel pump. I'm looking forward to watching the rest of the videos on this engine.
Thanks mate.
I’m familiar with silicone sealants. Most have an advertised temp rating which is for short term exposure. All have a lower continuous temperature rating. Just read the label. All the manufacturers include both ratings on their labeling. Just something to remember when selecting a sealant. I enjoy your posts. Their very informative. Your a good teacher.
Love the commonsense approach,skill and patience that you have stu. Keep up the great tutorials.
Hi, just wondering who did the rebore, new liners and pistons. I also have a 150 that needs major work, also an approx cost of rebore and pistons, thank you
Thank you from the US! Great videos, I have the V-4 ocean pro and these videos you put out are very helpful.
You're welcome Thomas, glad the videos helped you. :)
My Dad always used hi temp RTV. I did too, since the 1960's. Dad learned in the Navy, building aviation piston engines.
cheers!
It certainly seems to do the trick. :)
Great 2 stroke tips. Over the years working on Harley's, Triumphs and four strokes in general, what I've done is put the pistons in the oven for a while and the gudgeon/wrist pins in the freezer if I don't have any dry ice available. That way when you assemble it and push the gudgeon/ wrist pin into the bush it fits in quickly and smoothly, no forcing involved; it's a trick I learned in the Merchant Marine. It used to drive my wife crazy when she'd come in the house and there would be pistons in the oven.
Very nice videos (this is the second on this motor I've watched so far). Your explanations are good and your filming of the little details (like the stampings/markings) and getting the camera to focus on them is commendable (there are too many videos that blur through the details). Thanks for taking the time and effort to make and post these videos.
Just started watching for outboards and love this channel so far. From the states and work for a major brand commercial food equipment service company. Wanted to comment on the permatex #2. We use it often in transmissions of mixers and such. It can be super messy, but it doesn't harden up and contains grease at seams like no other. We usually get it at the auto parts store but sometimes you do have to search to find it on the shelf. Really enjoy learning about the marine motors and love the teaching methods and explanations that are used in your videos.
Just found your channel. I needed to say thank you for sharing your knowledge. I enjoy and take pride in doing as much of the work I can myself and your videos will be an immense help in doing so.
loctite never let me down great product here in Canada any ways great show man keep doing them learning lots. thanks.
Loctite does have a good reputation, that's for sure.
Great video as usual. I look forward to some videos from the woodern boat show. Love that bright work.
Thanks Anthony, yep, I'll be sure to take the camera down there!
I just love your videos informative and useful im looking forward to your next episode on the 150 rebuild great work Stu.
Thanks Josh, glad you are enjoying. :)
Now that was a good trick putting the grease in the freezer have to keep that in mine
Another great video! I appreciate you sharing your hard-earned tips and shortcuts. Thanks again.
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Good info and demonstration, as always. Thank you.
My new fav boat channel
Thanks!
Technique grease rollerbearings con rod piston so cool.
It's great when it works. ;)
nice video stu and the word you were looking for was viscosity
It was! I couldn't think for the life of me at the time, well spotted.
Another great video! Love the details and tips , it takes out any guess work! Thanks!!!
Have used threebond1207b on vehicle exhaust manifolds, rocker cover gaskets etc with great success, fantastic product and was heavily used at the Nissan/Mazda dealership I used to work for.
I have since had ThreeBond TB1184 recommended to me which I might go for, but I have no doubt that the 1207 will get used up, perhaps on the cars we work on as you mention.
nice to see you back at it man!..fyi..beware that with wiseco forged pistons,usually a longer warm up period is needed as they expand faster than the sleeves generally...sorry,dont mean to seem belittling,just have found out things the hard way..lol..you young guys are smart nowadays!
Thanks for the tip about the warm up times, I didn't know that but it does make sense. I'll be sure to let the owner know that.
Nice work stu as always
Thanks Dean. :)
Thanks for showing this, very helpful.
You're welcome Richard!
Stu, hands down the best gasket maker I've ever used is Permatex 85144 in the self dispensing can. I find it's the easiest to use product and produces a harder than average but still rubbery gasket that sets up very quickly. It also comes off in 1 piece without scraping.
i am from tassie and there is some good spots people go to margate jetty ,tinder box, south arm and cremorne have been good the last couple weeks
.
have fun with our lovely weather by the way
Hey Zane, thanks for the tips, I'll look those places up tonight. :)
Dangar Marine no probs. need any more help im local and will be attending aswell
Stu you are a legend!
Nice work Stu and a great learning vid I might add Have fun in Tassie...tight lines !
Thanks mate, will do! :)
thanks Dangar marine
Hi Stu, what an education. They are a bit tricky to overhaul not like an auto engine for sure. It would be easy to make a mistake in assembly for sure.
They are a bit tricky compared to four stroke motors I find, but hopefully it will come together alright in the end!
Putting the Evinrude Johnson bearing grease in the refrigerator worked ;-)
best engine sealer I found Loctite Right Stuff works great and seals.
Great video! I like how you weren't letting the piston skirts slap the connecting rods like maracas. (I've seen it)
LOL, you made me laugh with your maraca comment, if ever we get the band back together I'm going to get some old pistons for on stage! :)
I just like all your videos, so helpful, thank you
You are the best i have learned a lot from you
Thanks Kevin, glad the videos have been helping you. :)
Thanks for the video Leo 👍🇬🇧
I like to use a short socket that fits in the piston to hold the needle bearings in place while I push the wristpin through.
Those Wiseco pistons tend to expand as they heat up, its better the gap was on the fat side
When I did these in the past I had a short section of pin which I left in the conrod to hold the needles in place. The new pin then pushed this out on assembly and all the needles remain in place. My short section of Pin was just a piece of brass bar turned to size.
nice work as usual Stu.
Thanks Will, hope you are okay.
I'm doing OK Stu, still missing my buddy though.
another awesome video thanks Stewart
Thanks Peter. :)
Hylomar spray. Expensive but the best I've used on cars & bikes. I used it on my Jaguar head gasket, very tight seal.
1- love your videos
2- this is the overheated/cracked piston from the .030 oversize ?
3- this cylinder probably overheated from not adjusting the ring gaps correctly prior to installation considering there was no overheat damage to any of the other cyls- or a clogged / lean carb.
4- when doing a build like this- take a dead wristpin, sand a bullet/ tapered end on one end and make it into a guide tool for inserting the new wristpin into the bearings and aligning the piston and con rod and bearing assy
5- use another dead wristpin as a snap ring insertion tool
6- in fact, in any business like this make a habit of making useful / time efficient tools from ALL the parts you've removed. i do. any pin, bolt or shaft of sorts can be made into a tool to insert or guide the new parts or hardware into place. it's already the perfect size and can be modified for the specific job.
Hi mate, yes, the bad piston was already 0.030 over from memory. Keeping bits and pieces from old outboards to make custom tools is a good way to go. I always keep the old drive shafts, they make great punches!
3M High Temperature RTV is very good if you can get it. Hylomar is a good product as well, use it on Aircraft Engines all the time. Cleaning is the key to good lasting seals and joints, brake clean first and then final clean with acetone. That needle bearing grease is a rip off, vaseline works fine.
You are dead right about it all being about surface prep. Fortunately that grease wasn't too expensive, but I'm sure there are many cheap alternatives. The manufacturers love to tell you that nothing but their product will do the job. Very frustrating!
I use Rocol Sappire Molybdenum grease on the rollers when I do a rebuild. This burnishes Moly into the metal and significantly reduces friction and therefor heat.
Cool, I'll check it out.
Great video Stu very informative those needle bearings can be a pain in the arse.
I don't know how you Aussies deal with that heat, I'm melting when it hits 30c.
Thanks mate, yes, it was an uncomfortable day, that's for sure. Should have been at the beach not in the workshop!
Easy, it is the extreme cold we do not like. They do say that Texas and much of Australia have a similar Climate type.
Nice work
Wiseco's are great. Used them in my turbo subaru...
Yes, many people seem to swear by them.
Wisecos are the best closest to OEMS other then wossner german forged
Thanks. I learnt something.. cool Stu
Another great video !
Thanks mate. :)
There are actually a lot of little things that can go wrong. I suspect the engine would run for a while and you wouldn’t know. It explains to me why the power head I bought didn’t last but one season. The guy was a garage builder not a true pro.
Wow good new . I from malaysia . Thanks you brudas
Nice job,video is well done
there is a very simple trick to get those pins through the piston. get a plug with the same diameter as the pin. cut it to length of the bracket in the piston. as you slowly back the pin out out of the rollers you slide the plug in it's place. once it is lined up you push the pin into place and push the plug out. the rollers never have room to collapse. contact me if you need more info. it can save you hours and is not affected by temperature.
New pistons always come with a new pins, so you could cut a piece off the old ones and then you have the perfect size.
Now I know why boat work is so expensive!!!!! Tedious work😳
nOT TEDIOUS.ABSORBING!
I cut an old pin to hold the needles in place then slip the new pin thru which pushes the old cut one out. I put both clips on last- again using an old pin to help seat the clip. Still it can be a pain. I prefer the caged bearings.
+bsrktm1 Using an old pin seems to be a good way to go if you have one to cut down.
bsrktm1 great idea and if you don't have an old pin you can just do what I did and use a socket
I've used sockets also. You just have to be lucky and find one that is a really good fit- that's not always possible. .
bsrktm1 yea I used a 13mm but they pretty much stayed in by them selves with all the grease I used
I heard that the Eteck or was that the Vteck oil injected engine was always a problem with lubrication and fuel mixtures, running lean on both oil and fuel at certain revs causing engine melt downs and one of the reasons that Evinrude OMC went broke. I was told to avoid the later ones made in America. I also heard if you did have one, larger fuel jets and running premix was the way to go. I was also told the latest Evinrude's were better because they were made by Suzuki. I am no expert on outboards after a Chrysler 35 and a Merc 150 inline 6, I prefer inboard. My last was a 502 Chev twin Gentry turbo on LPG jet boat... real fun!
Evinrudes are now made by BRP of Canada and I think it is the FICHT motors you are thinking of that were Evinrude's last before they went bankrupt. It's a shame they didn't get a chance to perfect the technology because this is what went on to become etec in the end.
very good work!!
+pankyr pankyr Thanks mate!
Motor mechanic to doctor:”We do basically same job.....we change damaged parts with new ones”
Doctor to motor mechanic :” You do it with the motor still running like I do.”
The dreaded 2 stroke!Motor head for 45 plus years.Used to build blown injected big block CHEVYS for hydro plane race boats.Love the show!PS.Where do i get one of your shirts?
Thanks mate. Shirts are here teespring.com/shop/dangar-marine-shirts
great job! Do you have a video of doing the crank shaft needle bearings?
omc offers special tools to install the keeper rings and a special socket for the rod bolts.,20 years working on evenrude and johnson motors
I doubt I'll ever do another one of these so custom tools aren't really worth it for me.
A Really Very well described Video mate, even an idiot like me can understand it n learn from it thanks
If you work inside a cardboard box when putting the second clip in if it flys off it usually stays in the box and you don’t lose it.
if I have an old outboard that is working fine and I just want to do a rebuild. can I change all the bearings and pistons and all the gaskets and oil seals without machining out the cylinder? this is assuming that the cylinder wall is in very good condition.
Do you have any videos on 4 cylinder Evinrude/Johnsons? I'm working on a 1966 80 hp Evinrude.
G'day Stu.
Totally off topic, but how about checking the valve clearances on your BF40 some time. It would be a great help for me as i'm wanting to check my BF50. Although I have good compression they are well overdue a check. One of your 'how to' guides would help my confidence.
Anyway mate. Love your vids. Keep up the good work.
+Signe Dolberg Mckinney Sure, I am planning to bring the boat up to the workshop soon so that would be a good video to film while it's there.
If you have an old wrist pin , they are great for pushing the circlips down
+Ron Powell That's a good tip, I'll try that next time.
I’m working on a E40hp. Took a drift and hammer to get the wrist pins out. And same to get back in (on my practice piston from donor motor). Do some engines need to be pressed in versus that easy slide in on the 150?
If you are going for a great RTV, I cant recommend enough Loctite 5920. The three bond is good and will do the job on a clean surface, but the Loctite I have had work where it probably shouldn't. (I got caught once with a blown head gasket and HAD to be somewhere so a tube of 5920 and a couple of brazing rods for compression rings made a new gasket for my Brumby. and it stayed like that longer than I am willing to admit.)
Thanks for that, I'll check out the 5920. I know what you mean about those "temporary" fixes. ;)
Loctite 518
Your a boat mechanic you known,, and I was referring to the second piston ring groove, but I already found out their was , didn't have to lie to me
I'm not a boat mechanic and why would I lie to you? I just couldn't recall.
Why are OEMs press fit on one side and the aftermarket WSM pistons that I have are floating on both sides?
Is that a shop manual specific to this engine?
Stu I have to ask you how many hours on this 150 hp engine? You are doing a good job of
going through the main machining of the engine. Replace and re machine all you must do.
No, not sure how many hours it had done unfortunately.
Greetings, what is the part number of the piston rings bore at 3,600 so that the gap stays at .038? Evinrude 150 hp 60 g
just trying to figure out do you offset the top ring gap from the bottom , and I only seen a dial for the top ring , is their a dial for the second piston ring ?
hi stu great video i just have a question about torque settings for big end conrod bolts on 75hp mercury 4cyl 2 stroke 1985 model as i haven't been able to find them anywhere I'm in process of changing crank out any help would be very useful
thanks matt
+matthew brunne I don't have the service manual for that motor but have you taken a look on readmanual.com and tradebit.com to see if they have one for download?
thanks for that
I think when GE silicone is recommended it's because it's a good quality product. Lots of cheap substitutes out there.
I found what I hope is a good quality silicone in the end, I figure saving a few dollars on a total rebuild just isn't worth the risk.
OMG!!! Hope I never ever have to this "NASA" job!!! Great vid and job tho, love to see ppl who knows what they doing cuz my brain went blank and got a "blue screen" at the end. :D
We all get the blue screen of death from time to time. ;)
Wear mark pistón posición?
I'm not familiar with Three Bond products. They weren't around when I was buying/using RTV-type sealants. I remember Loctite brand, and there were your typical house-brands (private label stuff) made by goodness knows who... I doubt that an outboard motor would ever experience 330C short of driving a boat off of a waterfall and landing in hell, lol. If it's already bought and paid for, give the higher-temp stuff a whirl. It all cures at room temp anyways. Love that vinegar smell it gives off. Can't wait to see this old girl running. Have fun down in Tasmania. Don't forget the sunscreen. How is your Wi-Fish thingamajig working, no more connection issues?
Hey Stan, yes, I will be monitoring the temp of this motor was we go for our first few runs and I hope we don't end up off a waterwall and into hell! Still, it would make a great vid. ;) The Wi-Fish is going well. It connects every time now and gives incredibly clear images, I'm really happy with it.
Have you ever used the copper gasket compounds?
Copper + aluminium + seawater is not a good idea.
Yes, as Brent says, anything with copper in it is to be avoided around aluminium. Many aluminium hulls have been ruined by copper based antifoul too.
Next engine u build and have to bore cylinders try going 3 thousands extra for clearance I have been working on boat motors since I was 15 years old trust me u will thank me
What part of the head is the RTV used on? RTV headgasket might be a bit suss hahaha
It goes around the cooling galleries. There are o-rings that go around the pistons themselves.
great vid as always. My friend swears by only using permatex silicone for high temps. we put jb weld brand on and it sucked. Possible user error but had no problems with permatex. I went fishing yesterday and the outboard ran like crap. on your honda or yamm vid you said its recommended to change the tstat gasket anytime you take off housing. I learned the hard way. I took it off a week ago to look for debris and put it back on. had a decent leak while on the water and i have an air leak somewhere in the fuel lines. Gas was dripping out below the fuel filter after the fuel pump and before carbs. Put a merc ziptie and its still leaking enough to stall the engine at all times. Turns out one of my stat thread hole is stripped and wont tighten all the way. Should i tap or just put sealant on bolt? And will the sealant even work with the hole being stripped? I tried one of the other bolts so its definitely not the bolt. Thanks and can't wait for the rest of this rebuild!
jimbo gasoline Put a helicoil insert in that bad bolt hole. If one is stripped the other is probably close behind, may as well fix both.
40cleco Thanks! will look into the helicoil. Never seen it before.
jimbo gasoline Helicoil is just a brand name...just Google thread repair kits and you will get all kinds of different brands. The kits generally contain a drill bit, special tap, thread coils and and insertion tool. Drill the old stripped hole bigger, tap new threads with special tap, insert thread coil, done. Hole is now back to original bolt size with new threads. You need to know what size bolt and thread pitch to get the right kit.
I agree with this comment, a thread repair kit is the way to go. I put a couple in my old Yamaha because the bolts stripped before it got to the right torque setting. Once they were in it was fine. I will do a video on them soon. :)
Dangar Marine cool ima wait for the vid until i try it out.
Do you offset the top ring from the second like a automobile engine ?
Yes, they are all offset from each other.
Hay mate were do you get all your information from
I was given a copy of the manufacturer service manual before starting this rebuild. Couldn't have done it without having a copy.
curious at what point are you putting more money into it then what you are getting in return?
It's a tough call with outboards. A 150 like this is probably worth money, but I did a bit of work for a friend on a 15 recently and it didn't take long at all for the cost of the parts to be equal to a second hand motor of the same size.
I saw this lady on U tube using Vaseline (100% pure petroleum jelly) to use on the needle bearings to hold them in place installing them to the piston. She said it will dissolve with no problem. It cost about $2 for a small jar at Walmart. I am using that to put one piston on that I had to replace. Then shoot it with plenty of 2 cycle oil, and I think it will be fine. I saw in my manual that for up to 1986 the Johnson rings are gapped at .007 to .017. Then 87 after the gap is .019 to .031. The rings I bought for my 86 90 hp Johnson gapped at about .025. Kind of worried about having wrong rings. Asked an Old mechanic at a Johnson parts/repair shop. He said all the rings will be made for the higher gaps on all the engines even those prior to 87. He said the lower gapped rings were bouncing against the ring retaining pins once they expanded, and the gap was not that critical as long as it is not over the later year specs.
Just used Vaseline to install piston to rod. It works really good. Just smeared a little Vaseline inside the rod and stacked the bearings around it with the rear retaining washer held in place to keep bearings straight. Then sat piston upside down with the wrist pin inserted enough to insert the front washer. It was then easy to line up rod so wrist pin slide right through. You really don't need grease for lubrication as the 2 cycle oil will take care of that. It is just used to keep bearings in place for installation. You are right Stu about the Gel Seal II. It is just anaerobic(hardens absent air) gasket sealer. Permatex makes it #51813. I saw a large tube 1.69 oz. at a boat shop for $20. A bit outrageous. Auto zone sells the same tube for $8. It hardens soon after air is removed from it. So once you install crankcase cover you need to torque it as soon as possible so it does not begin to harden and make a shim effect. If you have to take the crankcase seal off for whatever reason, you would likely need to clean all the anaerobic off and reapply.
I have heard that Vaseline will do the job, but that tube will probably last about ten years with the number of two strokes we rebuild and when it is for a customer you are kinda forced to use the right stuff all the time. Having said that, I would be 99.9% sure that Vaseline would be just fine so it is a great choice for anyone going the DIY route. You are dead right about needing to remove all the sealant and reapply fresh stuff if you ever separate the crank case again.
Is their a dial pin for the second piston ring ?
Can't recall now.
Boy you sure take the long way to do that
Thanks mate! I sure love to take the longest way I can find. :)
If you were in AK907 id definately buy this evinrude off ah you for my 20x6 flat bottom aluminum boat
I have used jb weld instead of gasket material.
Great video again, thanks.
Is the RTV used on the cylinder head the only sealant, or is there a head gasket as well?
RichE
Thanks mate, this engine uses o-rings rather than a head gasket, the RTV just seals the cooling passages.