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Installing crankshaft in the Evinrude 150
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- Опубліковано 24 лют 2017
- In this video installing the crankshaft into the Evinrude 150. This involves lining up all the conrod end caps and torquing them up as well as aligning the centre bearings with their dowel pins. I also replace the oil seals at the ends of the crankshaft before sealing up the crank case.
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I have this same motor but a 115. I've been watching this series religiously so I can rebuild mine properly. Thank you for your videos!!
Favorite part of his videos outside the great education, there is ALWAYS a beer in the background. Cheers!
I have to say THANK YOU! Your videos are top notch and I really enjoy the way you explain things in detail is top notch. I have a vintage 1956 EVINRUDE BIG TWIN 30 Hp that I'm restoring and really learn alot from your videos. Please keep it going with what you do, and the time you put into your videos, as they are very much appreciated.
Thanks Andrew, great to hear the videos have been helping you and good luck with your restoration.
I just want to thank you for all your help. I have a 1998 evinrude 150 outboard and I had a blown piston in cylinder 1 . Been watching all you you tube videos on yours and now Im rebuilding mine, got the pistons assembled and were going to install them today. Anyway thanks again!
Im in Snohomish Wa. US
I have just watched a few of the videos provided by this gentleman. He is well versed in his skills and what I admired most is his rich fluent vocabulary which he uses to clearly explain what he is thinking, let alone what he is doing. I must say he is mentally sharp and his movements are so harmonious indicating that he is not clumsy in any manner. He is logical and sequential in his thinking and in his putting the engine together, he takes all the precautions needed to ensure a good result. Congratulations, for it is not often one meets a mechanic who can be so fluent and so accurate in the description of his work.
Thanks mate, I really appreciate your kind words.
Came back to this for your opinion on the end cap tool... I'm about to put the crank back in my 140 and thought this tool was a bit preposterous. I had already lined up the caps on the bench, seems straight forward. I've heard from other OMC techs that they often do it by feel too. Thanks again Stu!
there is a reason why all four side of the cod rod are smooth !!!! FOR THE TOOL HE DOES NOT HAVE ! Love the name DANGAR MARINE !!so when your engine fucks up after watching this video will ' DANGAR MARINE WARRANTY YOUR MOTOR ? NOPE . Good luck .
There's a few things that he's done, that as a factory trained tech we would Never do. The ring compressor being one. The factory one is very easy to use and very little chance of a mistake and, they're cheap.
I’m loving your channel mate.
I wish my teachers when I was doing my trade where as good at communicating as you are.
Great videos Stu, greetings from the US. I am about to get an '81 17 ft Glastron with a '95 Evinrude 150 on it. It has been setting in a carport and covered for over 5 years, so this series is of particular interest. One saving grace is that it has been fresh water only! I can hardly wait for final assembly and test run. Bye the way, the whole thing, boat, motor, and trailer.....FREE!
Sounds like you got a great deal on that boat! :) Having only rung in fresh water is certainly a big bonus, sounds like you'll get many years of great use out of it.
Hi my name is Gary Morris just started to watch your wonderful videos and love them. I live in Mexico although was born in Bondi. my parents had a cottage at Patonga and always enjoyed my time on Broken Bay. We used to ski at Lower Portland and have done the Bridge to Bridge on two occasions also a member of the Australian Barefoot Association #208. You are a very fortunate person to live at Dangar Island. I will endeavor to visit your location on my next visit home. keep up the great work.
It's nice to see someone else in MY place at the work bench! LOL! 28 years of doing just what you're doing here!!! I'm still at it,, I slowed down by half though these days! At 63 that bad old Arthur Itis visits me every day now,, he won't leave me alone! LOL!!!!
Hey Sony, sounds like after 28 years you've earned the right to slow down. More time for fishing that way! :)
Stu, if you haven't thought about teaching, you should. Seriously, you explain things very clearly, whilst keeping things intersting. Hell, I live on the outskirts of London, and have never had a boat nor am I likely to ever have a boat, yet I am subscribed to your channel! Keep 'em coming :)
Thanks mate. I have actually done a fair bit of teaching in the IT world, but I prefer doing vids like these, you get to help more people!
Your attention to detail is amazing. I wish you were my outboard mechanic!
I'm not sure it's so much attention to detail as fear of getting it wrong! ;)
Wat about my attention to detail ?? His fly is not done up 8;28 mins
Awesome video Stu. Many ways to skin a cat, but in my experience I would have left the heads off until the crank was installed. It allows you to push the piston up and work above the block rather than trying to fiddle around in the depths doing the big ends.
the manual always says to put heads on with the V4/V6/V8 . reason being is the crank journals are too deep, which means you'd need to push the rods down anyway, not push the pistons up, which means the pistons will slip out easily. trust me, i've done it without the heads once years ago, and couple pistons got pushed out.
Looking good Stu! Can't wait to hear it fire up for the first time. I'm really enjoying this build!
Me neither! Hopefully won't be too much longer now. :)
I'm sure I'll never rebuild an engine. I still love watching your videos anyway. You have a great teaching style.
Your clock looks like it's busted.
It's always fun to learn about things even if you don't intend to do them. :)
Really enjoying and learning a lot from this 150 motor. Thanks for all the videos and time your giving
You're welcome Bruce, glad you are enjoying the vids. :)
Nice job, Stu. The sealant you used on the crankcase dries in the absence of air so there is no rush to torque it down. The primer is to make absolutely sure there is no oil (not even finger prints) on the mating surfaces.
Yes, I have noticed that any of that sealant that oozes out seems to never go off. There is plenty of that primer left so I'll make a point of using the rest up doing future jobs.
I read that you need to go ahead and torque the housing down soon as possible once you mate the surfaces, because it will begin to jell or skim up a bit with the little air that is being cut off from it, in which case it may not seal proper.
Then why doesn’t it dry in the bottle? My guess is it’s moisture activated so there is a rush to torque it down.
Another nice video from Dangar Marine , thank you very much for your dedication and your experience that you pass on to us,,
E. Barcella.
Thanks mate, glad you liked it. :)
can't wait to see the 150 running!
Me neither! :)
Hey stu, firstly I love your videos, they are really helpful and go into so much detail! So Thank you so much for posting!Secondly, I'd love to see a vid on outboard stator/electrical charging systems and how they work/or how to diagnose faults. It's something that I only have a general idea about and can get tricky when trying to diagnose. Thanks again Ben
Thanks Ben, glad you've been enjoying the vids. A stator video and a video on charging a battery are both well over due. Stay tuned for that one!
The pins are probably used to prevent "fretting." This is when the cases move and wear down. Anaerobic sealer is what they call it in the States. I used that on a Buick supercharger snout once. I rebuilt a Johnson 3 cyl 55 hp back in the 70's.
Hey William, that explains why I was fretting so much about not having it. ;) Fingers crossed it is well enough aligned and sealed to do the job.
Still haven't got that email from that day Stu :-)
Another nice, clear video Stu. You have the knack for getting the message across clearly, though the double take was amusing. You stated the start time, but no finish time .
I still cannot cure that lower cylinder misfire so I am sourcing a new coil and lead. I have the carb off for another clean and to fit a new needle seat , if that does not fix things I will source a replacement set of carbs.
But in the mean time we have had the boat out a couple of times , caught a few bream and flat head down in Burril Lake. Also took the kids tubing one day down at Lake Conjola - so that adjustment is a 'good enough' fix for the idling issue at least for now.
Hey Ron, sounds like it might be a coil issue on that lower cylinder. Hmm, I'll have to check the email address I have for you, I might not have sent it to the right address.
Will be great to see this running eventually! Nice job Stu!!!
Thank mate, I'm looking forward to seeing this running too. :)
Thanks Stu! they look good im going to re use them
Great vids as usually, thanks for giving us the time! Greetings from Sweden!
Thanks Tommy, glad you liked it. :)
You have made me more knowledgeable about small boat repair. Instructions are clear and easily understood. No shirt for me though. I guess the printer does not offer them in larger sizes. :) Its okay Stu, I'm sure you tried.
Thanks mate, glad the vids are helping you. I just added a 4XL to the list, is that the size you were after?
Yes it is. Thank You. What's the brand of beer you are enjoying?
Cool. It is a Coopers Pale Ale that you often see floating around the workshop. ;)
Hi Stew
When I fitted new "O" rings on Cat engines I always ran a seal pick around it to get the twist out. If I did not do that they would not last very long until they blew out but they were under pressure (oil).
Cheers Rory
The 150 I am overhauling is a Johnson 1991 ocean runner and i see there is quite a few differences!!
Great video Stu. The only issue I have is how easy you make it look.
Editing makes everything look easy. ;)
great job again it's so good that you can show us the ways to do it without the specialized tools as I'm in the middle of replacing a crank in a 75hp mercury and was wondering how i was going to line up rod end caps as they are the same.
Thanks Matthew. There are so many expensive tools the manuals tell you to use. If you can't get away without them I also like to have a go at making something similar.
I just put a 1984 90hp Johnson together. I put the crankshaft in first with the center bearing lined in its hole with sealing ring gaps facing up. Then bolted the front and rear crank head covers to the crankcase to keep it in place. Then I turned the number one crank journal to bottom dead center and turned the block on its rear end with flywheel end up. Then I compressed the rings and held the compressor tight against the block and gently tapped the #1 piston in past the rings. Then used a screwdriver from underneath to hold up a little on the rod in order to center/ guide the rod down while tapping the piston top gently with hammer handle toward the journal. Then I put the top half of the oiled bearing around the top of the journal and pulled the rod down to it and then installed bottom oiled bearing half and rod cap. I did the other three the same way. The rods will hang up a bit against the crankcase if they don't go centered in as laying sideways the rod tends to drop down from center position on the wristpin, in which case you need to push them back up toward the head a bit and center them with a screwdriver so they easily slide back down without obstruction. After getting them all hand tight I turned block over so I could adjust the caps. Book said needed to get at least three of the four corners lined up with no ridge felt with a pencil lead or dental pick. So I think they okay after a few adjustments. Engine turns great. The new rod bolts torque at 30-32lbs using red locktite to make sure they do not loosen up over long term usage. I was wondering if I could put a pint of two cycle oil in the bottom of the pistons skirts and around the bearings before putting on the crankcase cover, so it has plenty lube for first startup. Do you know if that would be too much oil to put in. I know I will have to clean up if any gets on the crankcase mating surface with lacquer cleaner before applying the anaerobic sealer, and clean up heads if any leaks through the ring gaps, but thought it may be advantageous to put a good bit in. What do you think?
Hi Zed. I can't see too much oil really being a problem, particularly if the mating surfaces are clean when you seal it up.
Thanks. You really reply right away to these questions. Good luck with your projects.
at around 1:25 or so in the video, did anyone else notice when he checks the time the second hand on the clock has issues? lol
Great video Stu!
Hey David, yeah, people have been complaining about that clock for about a month now, hence the joke of checking it. ;)
yep,, probably why he looks so tired and stays all night,,lol
And I agree I would leave the heads off until power heads installed!
You are the best stu
Thanks Kevin!
I love your channel. Ive learned alot from you. Thanks
You're welcome Don, glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
Cross flows, use a sharp HB pencil and get at least 2 sides of the 3 aligned, that means 4 sides per rod. Keep the pencil sharp.
Loopers, use the OMC/BRP tool and aim for 3 sides on each side. Large flat side aim for edge" machined angle and large flat side. Be patient, my recent 250 Looper took 3 hours with the tool and pencil but it got their.
Taper pin, use the old one...
Yes, the way he's done it is not good.
great vids!
2 things
1) Maybe use the loctite sealer on the cover side so you know exactly the area that needs it
2) That taper pin. Other engines I have built have dowel pins similar to the pins that you 'located' the bearings with. I would assume that the taper pin acts
like a 'homing pin' with respect to aligning the lower case to the block. It will self center the case to provide a stupid proof, engineered alignment.
As an example, vw ac cases have 2 alignment pins. One top and flywheel side. The other is bottom and pulley side.
As you noted, it seems the other Evinrude rebuilders in the area have done just fine without the taper pins. That probably speaks to how well these pieces are
machined to begin with.
Cheers and thanks again for the videos. I had no idea that on a multi cylinder 2 stroke, there are sealing rings on the crank itself! Fun stuff!
Question that you probably already answered. Did all of the needle bearing need replacement? Also, any idea with the redline on these motors are? The crank throw is quite short.
Hi mate, no, not all of the needle bearings needed replacement. The engineer who did the engine said they are pretty bullet proof and not to waste money buying all new ones. Part of me things while it is apart why not replace everything you can, but the reality is that adds up to so much money that it just isn't practical. I'm not sure what the redline is on this motor. I would imagine around the 6K mark or so.
Great video
When building a motor you are better off putting the crank in first mate then drop the pistons in the next time just try it and you will see the difference, good video again mate
Will give it a go next time.
Hi Stu.
I like a way you work.
Nice work Stu great video
Thanks Cliff! :)
I have done the same kind of restauration of an 4 cylinder Evinrude engine from -90 and it was a real struggle to get the connection rod caps alligned without the special tool. As the cap is expanding like a spring when remooved the ends has to to be squeezed while mounting to get it properly aligned. I made a special tool for this in the end to get it aligned perfectly on both ends. It seems to be a different connection rod alignment keying on your engine but if someone is going to work on a 4 cylinder engine from 80-95, pay attention to this.
Ah, interesting that yours expanded out, that would be a serious issue without the tool I'm sure. I wonder if that is something that happens on all the older Evinrudes?
18:19 I am so glad you saved your beer before risk for Contaminated it,
keep up the good vids, cheers from Denmark.
I always hate to see a good beer go to waste. ;)
nice job man!..you made that look easy!!
Thanks mate, everything looks easy when you edit it down! ;)
Looks like that crank alignment didn't phase you one bit nicely done!
Thanks Callum, fingers crossed it will run sweetly. :)
Nice work as usual 👍😊
Thanks mate. :)
Looks like its going together smoothly, those pins can be put in later.
So far so good I think. I can't wait to get it back in the water.
@@DangarMarine Вот скажи мне австралиец😊,, на твой взгляд какой мотор лучше Evlnrude (Johnson), Merc, Yamaha, Tohatsu? И ещё как по надёжности Evinrude e-Tec?
18:18 Moves anything important out of the way of the spray (beer only) hahaha
Nice work Stu!
Thanks Will. :)
I wish we have machanic like u in the town.
Thanks mate!
Awesome video
Thanks Brian!
Your a smart guy
awesome video for sure !! i dont think i could do that job i drink to much beer and get the beer shakes
Thanks mate, it sure is a bit fiddly.
You are the best..
Thanks mate. :)
I'm currently working on my personal boat 99 Johnson 150 ocean pro Been to several local shops after 2 grand worth of fuel parts trown at it I was told its a vacuum leak causing the pulse valve not to work could be from a top or bottom crank seal
Nice work...
Thanks John!
should get some converter sockets so you can use any size socket with any drive there pretty cheap and saves you alot having to buy so many more sockets
great vid you are a god
Thanks Scott, glad you liked the vid!
Just noticed the second hand on your clock is stuck on the 9 ;-).
For the crankshaft, on the journal side walls, does it need to be machine all the way around? I bought one and it seem like when they machine around it, there was not enough material so it only machine part of the walls and left a pretty decent gap that’s is still raw material.
I know this video is rather old Stu, but, I am in the process of rebuilding a 77 Johnson 115 V4 and an 80 Johnson 150 V6. I was wondering for the con rod bearings, would I be able to use petroleum jelly to hold them to the con rod prior to installing the crankshaft? Or would that stuff not break down via fuel/oil mix upon startup? I've heard some guys assemble entire engines with the stuff, but I remain skeptical. Thanks.
Yes, I've heard petroleum jelly is fine.
Yeah clock on the wall has crankshaft slip
Does the seam of the cage rod bearings need to be perpendicular to the seam of the rod/ rod cap or have the Seams in the same spot?
Your videos don't show installing the bearings on the crank shaft. The top bearing on My 19821 Evinrude 150 has started to squeal and I'm considering rebuilding it. What do I need to watch for when replacing crank shaft bearings? Your videos are very well done and have convinced me that I can do it. Thanks. Greg in Arizona USA.
Hi mate. Big thing really is to make sure the crankshaft is smooth and hasn't been damaged by the bearing if it has failed badly. Other than that it is just about taking note of the order and orientation of everything as it comes off and putting a bit of two stroke oil into the bearing before reassembling so it has some start up lubrication.
If I'm going to start a Dangar Marine in Arizona, I'm going to need a Dangar shirt! Thanks again for your help and your outstanding videos.
Rats, no mention of the center dowel journal oil holes. Mine feels like it has a rubber o-ring in it.
Awesome detailed video's Stu,, Working on my 2005 Johnson 150 Ocean Runner. My End caps do not have little hole on side as you mentioned to face in the direction of flywheel but does have 3 equal holes across the top of End caps. However I did manage to identify one "slightly raised nipple" (if you will) on the side, my guess is this would be the indicator to face towards the flywheel. Please advise if not. In addition I noticed on one end of con rod is metal polished and other side has factory black metal that match my end caps.
At 6:18. You talk about rotating the crankshaft labyrinth seals{compression rings} would you happen to know the correct gap tolerance on this application? I have been scouring the internet and have only found the tolerance for small 2 cylinder dirt bike motors. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Glad to see your progress on renko, she's coming along beautifully. Best regards, Alex
Question,I have this exact motor.Can I change a piston with pulling the motor?
Great job Stu! What do you do or don't do about the unavailable mysterious pin? lol. Seriously, what is the pin used for? Im learning a lot from you and can't wait for the next vid
Thanks mate. The pin is there to help align the crankcase accurately before you torque the bolts up. This is because the crankcase supports the bearings and you want them to run as true as possible.
Where is your hull split ? ...My old quintrex is also leaking a little briney in somewhere. I added screw in drain plugs 3 months ago and think it may need some more Sikaflex behind the riveted section.
It is split on the chine up front near the should. It is actually in the same location as the split I welded up on the starboard side during the antifouling video. I'm thinking maybe it happened when the bow got damaged. Planning to weld it up soon and maybe do a better video on fixing it, and hopefully a better job!
Hi mate I've just purchased a boat it's got a johnson 140hp v4 vro. It runs fine haven't been on the water yet due to trailer repairs. Are the motors worth rebuilding or is it cheaper to replace it
Can that little motor be used horizontally like in a car? 2 cycle motors are wonderful little contrivances. Good videos, btw.
Ooh, on a motorcycle. Yes? Maybe?
Hey Stu, the first time I watched this vid about 6 months ago, I meant to ask- you installed the pistons before the crank; is this the normal procedure on an outboard or just the way you like to do it? The reason I ask is that I've always done the opposite with automotive engines. Aaand as I continued to watch, I see why and remember. Nevermind! LOL
I have a evinrude 200hp Sometimes where out on the water wild going around 30 mph the rpm drops and it will be around 17 mpg and lil by lil it goes back up any idea?
What happend to the original taper pin I would have reused before not using none...
I know this is an old thread but how did the engine go on?
My engine is Evinrude 150hp 60g I turn it on and it takes a long time to lower the revolutions nesecito help.
i have a issue we my 1995 yamaha 90 2 stroke running foward they dont go more that 3500 RPM I remove the oil tank mixer i mix the oil we gas now ,i change the spark plugs i clean the carburattors ,i change the fuel line ,the prime i clean the little filter inside the motor,i check the fuel pump don have any hole on the diagfragm the compression on all 3 cillinder is 140 on each cilinder and is working better but not more than 3500 RPM, I dont know if is the CDI SAFE MODE or any other Issue,can you o any person here can help me PLEASE.
Thanks
Isn't this job just horrible. I rebuilt one of these about 4 years ago. Motor was running fine but would loose power and partially seize at 4K rpm. Pulled the heads off and looked at the bores and they were a mess. Carried out the rebuild and all went well (slowly but well). First run up the river on premix the alarm came on and it wasn't pumping oil. So for some reason there had been no alarm previously perhaps the previous owner had disconnected but I didn't notice it during tear down. However one rebuilt with correct back pressure it triggered a failure. Replaced VRO and all was well and it ran like a dream. Went 030 over and added 1 size large jets (to be sure). I'd say that this one ran lean causing the holed piston and the heat causing the scored bores and pistons.
It's certainly a big job, that's for sure. I was fiddling with a bit today before the rain came trying to get the routing of all the hoses right. Unfortunately the service manual isn't as clear as I had hoped on where they all go, wishing I had taken my own photos instead of relying on it. I'll definitely be running premix to start with, that's for sure. When I cleaned the carbs I was expecting them to be dirty and perhaps being the cause of it running lean, but they seemed quite clean. Going up one jet size is a good idea to keep the temperature down, I now wish I had done that while they were all apart. Once it is back on the water I'll monitor it's temperature quite closely too. Now, if only I could figure those hoses out... ;)
If I still had mine I would have sent you some pictures. I sold that boat 3 years ago to a bloke at St Ives and its still going. I see him drive past my place on his way to Bobbin Head and he waves so all mus be good. MOved on to yammies now, much more reliable motor so far, probably not as cutting edge as those evinrudes in their day. But I love a 2 stroke the power delivery is so strong.
Thanks Jason, no problem, I'll figure it out sooner or later!
Hi Stu, I'm sure your busy mate but what's the story have you got this thing together yet? I'm looking forward to seeing it run.
I'm looking forward to it too. Hope to get it in the water this weekend so hopefully video will be up the following weekend.
Time to replace the battery in your clock stu.Or does time stand still when you're in the shop?
things are really starting to crank up now mate...... sorry. Great job with this stage. how are all your bilge pumps working this week with all the bloody rain ?
Who doesn't love a good pun. ;) Bilge pumps working okay, thankfully as the Green Machine also has a split in the hull that needs welding.
Moving from the coopers Mid to the full mate? ;-)
You know, when the pressure's on... ;)
Big fan of your videos,
I'm currently working on rebuilding a 25 hp evinrude two stroke (E25RCTE), cylinder one was down to 50 psi compression and cylinder two was at 75 psi. I noticed you are a pretty big fan of using the RTV sealer (i'm guessing here), in place of gaskets. Can you think of a reason I should be using gaskets over the RTV or vise versa? Trying to stretch the life of the motor another 3-5 years before replacing it, but comparing apples to apples RTV is massively cheaper than a new power head gasket kit.
Cheers from Indiana
Hey Chat, glad you're enjoying the vids. The outboard in this video specifically calls for RTV and o-rings instead of a head gasket like other outboards. I would always use whatever the manufacturer recommends.
Ah, gotcha, that makes sense. I ordered all new gaskets, had the cylinders over-bored 30 thousandths, ordered over-sized pistons and just got it all back together late last night. first compression test I was at 120 psi in cylinder number one and 130 in cylinder number 2. Quite an improvement from 50 and 75!
18:19 Lol... Don't want to contaminate the beverage. Glad to see that you always maintain excellent situational awareness, a good eye for the details. Now, about that second hand on your wall clock.... :) Has the weather (specifically the temperature) eased back and stabilized somewhat for you down there? Your hot spell a few weeks back made news up here, they mentioned that many parts of NSW were seeing 47C that day. I have fond memories of extreme heat spells back in the 90's when I worked in a physically punishing trade at the time. Our Military stood down for a few days, but we had to carry on. It was over 40, but sure not 47! Question: Have you (Stu) always expressed torque values in Metric (Nm) as opposed to Imperial (lb-ft) ? Metric has been the unit of measure for many things in Canada since the Gov't went that way in the 70's, but there are still so many industries and situations where other units of measure still reign supreme, and therefore the tool makers continue to use Imperial calibration marks, although if you search, you can find tools that are marked in Metric.
Ha! Don't want to get machine primer on my human primer. ;) This weekend has been much cooler fortunately, the heat certainly wears thin after a while. Things started going metric in Australia in 1947 so there is very little remaining that uses the old system now.
Stu, I think you meant 1974, not 1947. Stan, many older hands still use imperial as that is what they are comfortable with. I am a bit of a 'in betweener' - I know 100ft lbs is very tight, and 326ft lbs is near on impossible to remove with hand tools ( rear axle/brake drum nut on a VW beetle!) and tyres are in PSI, but distances are made in mm and metres - not meters!, mass is Kgs etc - I just find Nm and KPA don't stick and I cant remember the usual figures easily. The only 'standard 'imperial' measurements officially used in Australia are knots and altitude (feet) now.
Ron, I'm largely the same. I'm very comfortable with most Imperial measurements, pressure in PSI, torque ratings in lb-ft or lb-in. Weight in pounds, although more and more it's being listed in kg (even in USA documentation). I love thinking mpg, gallons, mph, and thinking how far I can get in terms of miles converted to time, but I've had so much Metric pounded into me, I'm easy thinking km, km/h, temperatures in degrees Celcius (or Fahrenheit). Precipitation is an even split. When it comes to power, I hear kW a lot, but need to convert it to good old HP to understand. To me, thinking about kW is like thinking about the hydro bill, not how much power some machine puts out in useable force. The thing about Metric is that certain units of measure, I've had constant exposure to (fueling up in Litres, buying drinks in mL, telling the temperature in Celcius, ). I know about ounces and pints and quarts, but for lesser amounts it's now easier to think about it in mL because it's been beaten into me that way. It's just strange (as in rare, unlikely) to me when I find someone who routinely expresses a measure in terms I don't hear everyday. NM (torque values), sure I've seen the markings on tools or in books, but I haven't had any regular exposure to that way of expressing it, so when I hear those values, I have to screech to a stop and think about it, grab a calculator and convert it over to a measure that I know. It's almost like being exposed to new dialect, encountering new words in a language that you thought you had mastered long ago (or should have). Nothing wrong with expressing things in the values/units that you are familiar with, but it just messes some guys up, and some more than others :)
why would you not put the primer on both surfaces?
Some People recommend using loctite 271 for the rod treads. Is that the way to go or just overkill?
I just followed whatever the service manual recommends. If it doesn't call for it I don't use it.
Thanks, after reading about Loctite 271(recommended by Mercury) it seems that this particular Loctite needs heating to remove if needed. That´s not very convincing since I might need to be able to disassemble the Rods in the future. I know that you can´t give any garanties but I just think it seems od that Evinrude V6 Rod Bolts should be that much different from the Mercury V6 ones. This is a standard 87' 200 HP and not a Race spec engine. Just a thought, I assume that Torque tightening the Bolts (New of course) should hold up.
Will you be showing installing the reed valves in back of the carbs?
Yes, hopefully.
hey stu did you reuse the bearings on the conrods and the crankshaft bearings? Mine look fine...bearings wear out im sure but theyre really expensive especially the crank shaft bearings. Im torn.
I re-used them. The engineer took a look at them and told me they are pretty much bullet proof. If there are no obvious signs of pitting or wear I wouldn't worry to much about replacing them. There is one argument that there is no better time to replace things than while it is already apart, but you have to draw the line somewhere. If you replace every single part it is cheaper to buy a new motor!
Stu, great video as always. I was wondering about the oiling of the con rod bearing bolts.
Does the manual recommend the oil? Using oil on the thread of the bolts tends to over tighten vs a dry fit.
Thanks.
Hi Barry. I can't recall specifically now, but the manual did specify some torque settings are dry and others with oil.
Hello off the sub. friend has a mercury 6 cyl 150 keeps loosing pressure in fuel line replaced bulb only seems to happen in hot weather wondering if he can put a electric fuel pump on or if you have any other suggestions he has prelaced all fuel lines new bulb after motor sits for a half hour or so the bulb is soft any help would sure be appreciated
Theoretically the one way valve in the new bulb should stop it loosing pressure, but if air is getting in above that (fuel pump, carburettor float bowls etc) then it will still drain back because those bulbs aren't a perfect seal. I'm not sure I would go an electric pump, if the needle and seat isn't working properly in the carbs then it will just overflow.
Larry Cederholm i put a one way valve in my fuel line to stop mine from feeding back to the tank
Larry, I had a similar problem and it took some thinking to find the issue. In my case the fuel pump (crank case pressure pulse driven) needed an overhaul kit installed . That kit replaced a diaphragm that included the directional valves . Once the pump was serviced the fuel line stayed pressurised as expected. As part of the fault finding I also found the fuel tank pick up was loose at the out put end, allowing air into the fuel line. So if you have one of the pressure/vacuum hand pumps Stu has shown being used for the gearbox seal test you can test the fuel pick up system- block the pick up in the fuel tank and use the pump to pressurise or pull a vacuum at the motor connection. Pull about 5-7psi vacuum or 10 PSI pressure (max) (Vacuum is better, that is what the system actually uses, but pressure is easier to use to find leaks- your choice) - the reading should stay stable for 5 minutes if the system is good.
hey what up just a quick question i have a 9.9 hp suzuki and im pritty shore that i have over heated due to the last owner not clearing out all the rubber Dubre from the rotted water pump propeller and now im pritty shore i hear a slight knocking sound when ideling but when i rev it up it sounds like it goes away but im worried that i might have damaged something would u have any ideas of what it could be iv watched a lot of ur vids and am learning a lot but im still confused a little bit seeming its my first boat motor and im learning on the go sorry for the novel but i need help am was hoping u could help or have an idea on where in should start looking
is there a way i can send u pics or pm u ??
Hi Stu, love your videos and knowledge mate. How can I contact you regarding my Johnson Oceanrunner 150 mate
19:55 You've got a security breach at Los Pantalones aka your zipper is down
Hi! Engine 115HP OMC. crankcase with what force to tighten?
how can you rebuild it without buying the service manual first? they are like $20 used on ebay! Anywho, I believe 12ft/lbs for all 6
I like your videos. What kinda beer is that? Haven't seen it in Canada.
Can't recall in this video but was probably a Coopers Pale Ale made in South Australia.
Hi! Engine 115HP OMC. Connecting rob with what force to tighten?
This motor was 40-43 Nm.
I was told 15nm+60* ?
No adapter to go from 1/4" ratchet to 3/8"?
No.
i hate liquid gasket/ sealant, you never know if it squeezes out and blocks things or makes a good seal.
I'm surprised that loctite isn't required for the bolts
I don't think I've ever seen loctite on crank bolts. It is the stretch in the torque to yield bolts that stops them coming undone.
Good to know. Sold my bass boat w/1998 Johnson 150hp last month. Those motors are pretty much bulletproof.....but boy do they love to consume fuel :(
My '78 Johnson 70hp 3cyl looper on the other hand....sips fuel. Simple to maintain...and very reliable.