The best part of this video was when you mentioned "you have to use some common sense", I agree 100%. Thanks for the very detailed tutorial video. You are a real pro auto mechanic.
Your videos have saved me hundreds if not thousands of dollars by allowing me to tackle the work myself and keeping my vehicle in top notch condition. 230,000 miles and still going strong. Thank you.
That's great to hear and the reason why we do what we do. We're all about empowering people to handle their own automotive work. So, good job taking up the challenge. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
When I bought my 4runner, I did regular maintenance when I got it but read the filter was lifetime so I didn't touch it other than draining and refilling the transmission about 5 quarts. Driving it regularly, I developed a weird rattle noise from the transmission area. I couldn't not narrow it down and just chalked it up to my transmission dying at 170,000 miles. I did try one last thing and drop the pan and change the filter and flush all the old fluid out. That helped immediately. The noise went away, the sluggishness went away. I looked at the old filter and there was just gunk covering the whole screen. I think the transmission was getting starved of fluid. It was like a brand new 4Runner. So I recommend everyone change out their filter at least every 100,000, if not sooner. It's cheap maintenance.
RandRDetailing - was your transmission only making noise when in gear and reverse (but not in park or neutral)? My 4runner is doing that now @ about 200,000 miles, but otherwise is shifting fine. the noise is for sure coming from tranny, and not the power steering pump or alternator, etc. i've done drain and fills a few times over the years and just now, but is still "rattles/whines" in gear. will drop the pan soon and check the filter, hoping this might help....
@@michaelbruce3893I hope you found a solution. I have an 04 v6. Just did a drain and fill with about 3.2 qts. Feels better. Didn’t replace the filter and wondering if I’m a retard for not doing it.
I benefits from your series of videos on the 3rd gen 4runner. I can't believe after 6+ years, you are still actively replying the comments. Appreciate that. Second, I can't believe how much fun and peace and money savings you have bring to the community!
Oh man - thank you so much! 10 videos watched later, you were the ONLY one who showed how to put FIPG on the surface - everyone else skipped because of the 10 minutes to install requirement. A def new sub!
Hey Timmy, just wanted to say I really like your content and that it’s awesome to see a fellow Toyota enthusiasts spreading their knowledge about these great vehicles.
Sean and I are definitely Toyota enthusiasts. We're just a couple dudes trying to give back to the DIYer Mechanic Community. We're glad you like our channel. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman exellent video's! My tundra keep leaking from the transmission tail shaft seal/gasket. I've replaced it 4 time's. About, to replace for the 5th time. I've had the dealer replace it & I've done it. Any advice or reason why it continues to fail? Thanks.
*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION* With the added magnetic filter I installed in the transmission cooler return line, I don't plan on ever replacing the trans filter again on my 2000 4runner. I do a drain and refill of the trans pan every 10,000 miles and I replace the magnetic filter at the same time. The added filtration the magnetic filter offers will keep the trans filter under the pan from ever becoming clogged up. It's a fair amount of labor to remove that pan, so if I can avoid ever having to do it again, that would be ideal. The magnetic filter is very easy to replace because it's just a couple hose clamps to loosen to get the old filter out and a new filter in. I highly recommend people adding a magnetic filter to their automatic transmission system. I pretty much beat a dead horse advising it's better to replace the filter instead of trying to clean it out. Another reason to replace the filter rather than clean it is the cork gaskets on the filter become compressed and less supple due to age. The suction of fluid into the filter is reliant on a good seal from those cork gaskets. Risking a bad seal with those cork gaskets is another reason why I think it's better to replace the filter instead of cleaning it out and reusing it.
I am glad you made this video I started out as a transition mechanic and we never used gasket sealer on transmutations and I would have been surprised to find the the pan glued to the trans and would not have been properly prepared to separate the pan. keeping the valve body clean while cleaning the trans body is very important. Using gasket sealer on a automatic trans is something I would have never done on American transitions. Good thorough video Thanks
Yeah, when I first started working on cars in the early 80's, all the American made vehicles had cork gaskets and you had to drop the pan and replace the filter every time you wanted to renew the fluid. It was a very messy job every time. Having trans pans with a drain plug makes life much easier. Also, with a filter that is just a fine mesh metal screen, I believe this filter could be left alone for the life of the transmission if the fluid was renewed at regular intervals. If the fluid was never allowed to get really black and sludged up, I don't think this filter would ever need to be replaced. I'm now running an inline magnetic filter in my fluid return line and that's going to filter out even more material than the stock trans filter can. I dropped my pan out of curiosity to see how much metal debris had accumulated on the magnets and to see if the trans filter was significantly clogged up. From what I saw, I could have left it alone and been fine. So, if a person doesn't know the service history for their transmission, I'd suggest doing this job. If they know the service history and the trans received regular fluid renewals, I'd suggest they leave it alone and not drop the pan to replace the filter because they are going to find what I found, magnets with very little debris and a trans filter 95% unclogged.
I expect the gasket should seal good enough . And that torquing all bolts to specs and the right pattern should be enough . Maybe just a gasket " spray " on the pan for the gasket to remain in place while installing .
Hey Isaac, we're glad you like the video and it helped you get the job done. You're very welcome and good to hear you're rig is running well. Happy Wrenching!
Another great video Timmy! After watching your valve cover gasket video. I must say the video quality is 100% better. Maybe it's that Sean learned to hold the camera still. Lol!
Thanks Lance. Glad you like the video. Better camera, better audio and yeah, we're a little less shaky too. Sean only filmed half of this job. My buddy Wei filmed the second half.
Tim, thanks so much. Learning a lot from you for my new....well ok two months old...98. Your a champ at this. I have a little trick I use to align all my water pumps, pans, etc. Get 4 longer bolts and cut off the heads and put them in at finger tight.... or (allthread) to line up the pans when using the goo. No more with the eff ups I used to do with my tremor.👍
Very informative video! I used this as a guide to change the tranny filter on my 04 Taco. A couple of things that I learned while doing mine… 1. I didn’t have the special tool to break the seal, so I carefully used a putty knife and a rubber mallet. I was able to break it free when I broke the seal starting from the rear of the truck. 2. Be sure to support the pan while breaking it free! That pan drops down quick and can get really messy. 3. On my 04 Tacoma 2WD, I found that I didn’t have to remove the sway bar to pull the pan off. There was enough room provided to where I didn’t have to fight the pan removal. All in all, it wasn’t hard to do at all. It was a lot easier than my wife’s 08 Highlander! Thanks for the video!
The first time I changed my 2000 4Runner's transmission filter, all the part stores did not carry my specific filter, and I had to order the filter online!! What a pain that was. Great job as always my brother Tim! You are the man, keep 4Running.
Excellent instructions as usual. I thought you were being over-cautious dropping the anti-sway bar completely (so I only undid the mounts and dropped it a little). Everything went great, torqued everything down and was truly happy until I noticed some of the silicon on the cross member. Looks like when I was maneuvering the pan over the sway bar I took quite a bit of silicon off. However, by this point it was already setting up... so I may get some more practice at this job if I am not lucky enough to get a seal. The original job was the shift solenoid replacement (did all three). Glad I took the pan off because the last guy who did forgot the magnets. So after considering eBay and the heat resistant magnets from China - which would take a month to get here, I had to pay something like $75 for 4 magnets from the dealer which look exactly like the magnets sold at the dollar store. They must have special powers. For those who are doing this repair, take the sway bar off like he suggests. It will save you time and make the job easier.
Jeez Louise, $75 for magnets. That's highway robbery. Yeah, when I first looked at what it would take to get the pan out and back in, I was wondering if I could maneuver around the sway bar. Since I've taken the sway bar out many times and know it's not that much work to do, I just decided to get it out of my way so I'd have an easier time with the pan. Hopefully your pan isn't going to leak and you won't have to do this job again.
I have watched several of your you tube videos and they are very informative. Thank you for taking the time to do them. I also like your camera work and lighting as they are very, very useful to anyone checking it out. I should have put that comment on my other post. I do some metal working and I would take a not too abrasive flap disc(maybe 220 grit) to that pan(not the tranny) to clean that gasket off pretty fast. Your are doing a great job!
It's great to hear you appreciate the videos we are making. Getting the right camera angles and lighting is very important because we want to give our viewers the most detail as possible. When people set up a stationary camera when filming an automobile tutorial, you quite often miss things that might be very important to see. We like to get the camera right in there where the work is happening which isn't always easy to do. Your idea to clean up the trans pan would work great. The last time I did this job, I used a wire disk on my drill to quickly knock off most of the gasket material off the pan. The Dremel with a wire wheel works well but the regular drill with a bigger wire wheel was much faster. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for a great video! I called our local Toyota dealership to buy a new filter. The parts guy said the filter was just a steel mesh and didn't need changed, just change the fluid. I was skeptical so I came here to see what was involved. Now I'm going to change the filter.
You're welcome Chris. Lots of people including myself believe these fine metal mesh filters can be a lifetime filter and never need changing. But, if you have a vehicle with an unknown service history, it's not a bad idea to drop the pan and verify the filter isn't clogged and just replace it while you're in there.
Nice video. I have an old LandCruiser with 150'000 miles on it, I bought it with 130'000 on the clock. The gears were a bit clunky, $30 worth of ATF was the best money I ever spent. Smooth, smooth gear changes now. I am now planning on doing a filter change, especially after watching your cut open filter. You made a very good point, if you don't know the history of the vehicle, which I don't, change the filter. For all I know it could still have the original 150'000 mile filter on it. I will do the timing belt and water pump first because again I don't know how old it is but the filter will be after that. Oh yes, nearly forgot, get some threaded bar, metric, different small sizes, it is cheap. Cut four short lengths the same thread as the sump bolts at about 3 inches long, prior to lifting up the sump covered in goo, thread the short lenths into the four corners of the gearbox, now you can slide the pan over the threaded rods which will guide it into the correct position, now insert the bolts. finally remove the rods and insert the last bolts.. This works on any tricky gasket jobs, hense why I said get a few sizes.
So I had the honor of doing this today. I was able to remove the nuts on top of the sway bar links and just rotated the sway bar ends up and this will give you all the clearance you need for the pan to clear. I typically use gaskets but I followed your way putting FIPG and everything went smooth, except I almost forgot to reattach the sway links. Oh, the pan removal tool works awesome!
Yet again you guys deliver a sound clear video. You are my go to for all my jobs I do on my 1996 Toyota . You rescued me on my diff seal replacement and fitted oil cooler now to do so filter change Thank you
Great video Tim! I recently had to do the same thing and replaced the shift solenoids. I found that the Dremel was the best tool for removing the old gasket too. It saves a ton a time and gives you peace of mind that some old gasket isn’t going to mess with new gasket and then cause a leak.
@@kevinnn116 it fixed my issue. Tranny was flaring between 2nd and 3rd gear if I recall correctly. It’s been a while. It’s a cheap fix and isn’t too hard to do so might as well try. If you’ve got a code then you might have the same issue I had. I had about 230k on the clock. Hope this gives you more insight.
@@iadgreen28 I'm doing it this weekend. Got code p0770 and when it's cold out my 4runner gets stuck in reverse gear and revs really high. Drive also slips until it warms up then drives perfectly. I'm at 190k miles but abused by prior owner.
Thanks for showing the filter and how dirty it gets. My toyota dealership was gonna charge me $800 for an ATF and filter change lol. They said they never change the filters usually cuz they’re a mesh screen and don’t need to be changed. I took it home and did a drain and fill myself. Was gonna skip doing the filter because the 2012 camry pan bolts are hard to reach but seeing how dirty it gets convinced me I need to changed it. Car has 126,000 miles and I didnt change it til now cuz dealership kept saying its ‘lifetime’ and now I know better lol.
Hmmm, I actually didn't think the filter material was that dirty. It was actually pretty clean. I pretty much tell people what the dealership told you that these filters don't need to be replaced. I tell people if the transmission has an unknown history and the fluid is in bad shape, black color, than maybe it might be prudent to drop the pan because the filter could be more clogged up due to the fluid being so dirty.
@@TimmyTheToolman ya my fluid was pretty dark and thick when I drained it. I put some on a paper towel and it was still dark brown but not black like I’ve seen burnt atf become. The 126,000 mile old fluid smelled bad to me but when I smelled the Toyota WS brand new in the bottle it smelled bad as well lol so I went ahead and changed it. I did’t have a way to reach the difficult bolts on the driver side tucked under the frame to change the filter but I read some people have luck with Offset wrenches so I’m gonna get one and see if I can get a hold on the bolts to change the filter as well cuz I’m sure it’s dirty and restricting fluid flow at least somewhat. Do you think an offset wrench will work? I don’t have a jack or way to lift the tranny to get at the bolts. I’m doing this all in my level garage on the ground lol.
@@petsquirrelable Yeah, with the dirty fluid, probably not a bad idea to change out the filter. I can't see what you're dealing with so it's hard for me to advise you on the tools necessary.
Thank you Timmy. I have been trying to find out what size the bolt is that holds the dip stick tube to the head. And you have just given it to me. Size 12 😀 thanks again. It’s hidden from the top view by the bracket and I hope I can get to it from the wheel well. I want to replace the filter but I couldn’t get that darn bolt out. I’ll get er this time.
The other contaminant which clogs the filter are the fiber clutch disc in all of the clutch packs which grind against steel ring shims in the multiple clutch packs
I like your channel because you do Toyotas. I am a Toyota man also. I have put 13 qts through my 02 Sienna transmission in the past 5 months. The first drop I did the filter and it was bad! The magnets were silver. It shifts much better and when it is cold. Keep up the Toyota videos. Waiting for a diesel Tundra...
Glad you like our channel. What was wrong with the filter? Was it clogged up? That's great you got your transmission shifting better. Just goes to show what a little maintenance will do.
Timmy The Toolman I did not cut mine open but I know it was original and it looked bad in the enter and exit holes. 210K when it was changed. Original fluid also.
I gotcha. If the fluid was changed on a regular basis, your filter probably would have looked like mine. Mine was a little bit clogged on the small port that faces the valve body but it wasn't too bad. I'm still glad I replaced mine.
Timmy The Toolman I had your FEAR about transmissions and changing fluid on older transmissions. I felt I had to because it was going longer and longer between gear changes. I asked another UA-cam mechanic and he advised multiple drops till it comes to red color and to change the filter. I feel confident now and have done 4 different model cars in the last 5 months. I am getting ready to do a dipstickless Camry soon with a bidirectional scanner for fluid temp level checking. I have the WS ready
So my tranny fluid swap went from just that, to wanting to do all of this because I'm under there anyways! Great video, keep up the good work, so many of us appreciate it!
I always check the torque specs on the valve body when removing the filter, Since there are a lot of bolts right there, Ive had many occasions doing a service on peoples vehicles and the bolts on the valve body were loose or hanging out, just thought id mention..
Thank you for your comment. We really appreciate it. A lot of people use our videos every month because we can see the numbers in the analytics. I also don't understand why more people don't choose to subscribe to our channel. At the end of the day, we're helping people and that's what's important. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
I appreciated your speaking voice is very professional can you speak very well that's coming from a compliment with about eight semesters of college speech class and communication courses
Thanks for the compliment Max, but I do have to be honest that without the video editing we do, my speech wouldn't be as polished. Nothing is scripted when we make videos, so I'm taking everything I'm saying off the top of my head. Sometimes I say exactly what I want to say on the first take, but quite often I stumble on my words and I have to repeat myself. I do think I have the ability to explain things in such a way that most people can understand, so I guess I'm a decent teacher. I appreciate your comment.
They do make rubber plugs you can put in threads that help align pans for reinstalling to help with not sliding around and messing up gasket sealer as well.
Tim & Sean, I am planning to change the trans filter and do a full flush, but had a question of order. '00 3.4L 4x4, 170k, last flush (filter changed?) appears to be at ~100k, no fluid changes since🤦♂️... what should I do first? A. Drain & replace fluid a few times then filter & flush (i only drive 3k/yr, so would literally take years) B. Drain, change filter, flush after 5k C. Drain, change filter, flush now D. Timmy & Sean's better suggestion.... Thank you both for doing these videos, you've already given me the confidence to do several jobs (lower ball joints, struts & shocks etc) that I wouldn't have tackled otherwise!
I'd drop the pan and replace the filter first. That process will drain out around 6 quarts or 50% of the system. I'd drain the fluid into a graduated quart container like we show in our flush video so you know exactly how much you need to add back in to top it off. Any debris large enough in the old fluid to get stuck in the filter screen is already there so I don't think it's much of a concern to put the new filter in with some old fluid still circulating in the system. After you get the pan back on and the system topped off, I'd immediately start performing the flush procedure exchanging 1 quart at a time. Hopefully you'll have someone that can help you with this. I bet after you exchange around 6 quarts, you'll see the fluid coming out of the hose looking really clean and new because you will have effectively now exchanged the full 12 quart capacity. If the fluid isn't looking super clean, keep doing the flush procedure until it does. You're very welcome. Great to hear our videos gave you the confidence to perform jobs you probably would have paid someone to do for you. That's awesome! Let us know how the filter replacement and flush go for you. Good luck and Happy Wrenching!
Have you had any issues with seeping of transmission fluid? A shop did my filter and used a cork gasket. It Always looked wet as though it seeped. 1yr later, def seeping to where it was leaving little tiny dots of fluid on the back of the truck from highway wind blowing it up. so I had a shop re seal with just FIPG from the same shop. Still had a leak. Shop recommended replace pan due to possibly being slightly bent. Just replaced, and re sealed with Permatex gasket maker. Now again, still seeping a little when I put a white paper towel to the edges. I am out of ideas of what to do. I assume shop isn’t cleaning the serface well enough for a good seal?
Hey Anthony, I already know all about your problem via Tacoma World. I'm "Timmah". To answer your question, no, I have not seen seeping of trans fluid on the two vehicles I've done this job on. On mine, I used the Toyota red FIPG. On my buddy Wei's rig, he used a cork gasket. Even though the shop you used put a new pan on and resealed it with RTV, I think the mechanic either wasn't good about removing all the old gasket material or he did a poor job of applying the RTV when he redid the job. If the pan is new, the mechanic got a sufficient amount of RTV on the sealing surface and he correctly torqued the bolts to spec in a crossing pattern, the pan should be leak-free. Another thought is maybe the RTV they used isn't correct for this application. Toyota makes two different types of FIPG. The black FIGP is for the engine components. The red FIPG is for the transmission, transfer cases and differentials. I recommend you drop the pan, clean off the pan and transmission surfaces really well, apply Toyota Red FIPG and carefully torque the bolts to spec. The video will show you everything you need to know. Good luck!
Hi you are a great teacher, the question I have is I heard , putting the fresh transmission fluid in transmission over 100k , miles is causing the problem "sleeping ", so I like to hear from you, thanks.
Putting fresh fluid into a high mileage abused transmission has resulted in issues for some people. There's two lines of thought on why this is. One is the abused transmission that never got a fluid exchange has caused excessive wear inside the transmission. Some of that wear is from friction material that came off the clutches. The clutches are worn, but the suspended friction material in the fluid is keeping the transmission from slipping. When you drain out the old fluid and replace it with new fluid, you lost that friction material the fluid was holding and now the transmission slips. The second theory is the abused transmission has sludge deposit build-up inside. Transmission fluid has great detergent qualities. When you drain out the old fluid and replace with new fluid, the detergent in the fluid works on those sludge deposits and they break free. The deposits go through the system and get lodged in a tight fluid passageway like in the valve body. Part of the transmission then gets starved of lubrication and the transmission fails. Some believe in these two theories, and others say it's bullshit and it's never bad to add fresh fluid to an automatic transmission. I lean towards believing there's some truth to these theories. If you're worried about it, you can do a simple drain and refill of the pan. This only exchanges around 1/3 of the system capacity, around 4 quarts. After another 5,000 miles, perform a second drain and refill. After another 5,000 miles, do a third one. After the 3rd drain and refill, your fluid should be in good shape. This slowly renews the fluid rather than a full flush that renews the fluid in one shot.
Hey Timmy, My 2001 4Runner has 258k and I’m not sure when or if the transmission fluid was changed by the previous owners. Should I do a drain and fill? Or the method used to also change the filter? I just want to be careful since I’ve heard others say not to do a flush since changing all the fluid could be problematic. Look forward to your advice. Thanks.
I would just do a drain and refill of the pan. You will get out around 4-4.5 quarts. I would follow that up with another drain and refill after another 3-5k miles and finally do a 3rd drain and refill after another 3-5k miles. After the 3rd drain and refill, your fluid will be in pretty good shape. This will gradually renew your system which is safer. If you do the pan drop and filter replacement you will get out around 6 quarts or half the system capacity which might be a little riskier. Your filter could be slightly clogged, but from my experience, those filters don't get clogged up that easily. Maybe after you're done with the 3 drain and refills, you could replace the filter when you're due for another drain and refill. I do drain and refills every 10k miles to keep my ATF in good shape. I suggest others do the same. Drain and refills are easy to do and the fluid isn't expensive. It's affordable insurance to extend the life of your transmission. Good luck!
Doing this maintenance on my 4Runner. The JTC gasket removal tool is a must. I was able to pivot the sway bar out of the way by removing the nuts on the outer bolts attached to the wheels, saved some time. Thanks again for such a helpful video.
Really appreciate your videos! I have a 2000 and every job iv done to it i always refer to your videos before starting to turn bolts. Iv turned about every external bolt on it and your videos have been a huge help.. thanks
Im going to do this on my 2004 4runner soon cause my transmission is whining at cold start. Goes away after operating temperature is reached or when not moving and put into gear (reverse or drive). It whines on park or neutral.
Hey Bobby, hopefully it is a case of the trans filter being clogged up starving your trans of fluid when it's cold. Once the fluid warms up and thins out, the fluid flows better through the filter and the whining goes away. It could be a problem with your fluid pump or torque converter but let's hope the filter replacement fixes the issue for you.
@@ericsbr the whining noise is only comes on a few seconds now at cold start at park or neutral gear and not as loud and goes away immediately. If engine is already warm after driving, restarting the engine does not make whining noise at all. I'm guessing the new transmission filter helped and by putting the gear into neutral more often at a stop or coming to a stop helps lubricate the gear in neutral.
I’m curious when you torqued all the bolts down? Did you let the FIPG sit for a little bit with the bolts hand tight and then came back and torqued them all down. Or did you tighten everything up by hand and torqued it down when the FIPG was still wet all in one? No need to wait to torque?
@anthonymarasa6204 I torqued them down right away. There's no need to wait. I've heard of this before but don't think it's necessary. I've never read that technique in a Toyota factory service manual.
A great time to retap the drain plug. Mine stripped and I retapped it in place, flushed out the debris, and it’s been great for years. Also, I have Used dexron vi fully synthetic for years with no issues. It’s a great transmission once you do the radiator bypass.
It's a great transmission regardless. I'm not looking for a debate because I've debated this topic plenty on Toyota forums whether or not it's prudent to bypass the stock cooler in the radiator. I added an external cooler but chose to run it in-series with the stock cooler instead of bypassing. I did plenty of research and based my decision on that research and how I use my rig.
@@pedromunoz3513 You will need around 6 quarts of ATF for this job. It's not an exact thing because it depends how long you spend doing the job. More drips out as time goes on. Buy 7 quarts and you'll be guaranteed to have enough. As for the filter, I'm not sure what the correct filter is for your 2wd model. Your best bet is to either look it up online from a Toyota parts seller or visit your local Toyota dealer and they can look it up for you.
@@pedromunoz3513 I don't know Pedro. You have to look it up on an online Toyota parts seller website or go to a dealership. I know quite a bit but I don't know everything and I'm not going to look up the filter you need for your vehicle. That's your job, not mine.
Hi Tim, I have a leak on the automatic transmission and will follow these steps to fix to replace the gasket. It is not a dripping leak but enough to make the lower part of the transfer case also wet. Have you seen leaks in other places other than the gasket? Any other parts that I may want to replace for leaks?
It could be leaking from the output shaft seal in between the transmission and transfer case. The ATF will drip into the void and then slowly drip out underneath.
Just finished this job using a fel-pro gasket, but not all of the holes in the gasket lined up. Had to push the bolts through the gasket in some places. Do you think this will be alright? Thanks
@carloswilhelm203 The information is from the Toyota factory service manual. You can find them for sale used on Ebay usually. Just do a search for your year and model on Ebay and see what you find. You can also access the information online via the Toyota Tech Info website. You can buy a subscription as short as 2-days for $25. techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&goto=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2Fagent%2Fcustom-login-response%3Fstate%3DFNhshbi6ZchEZcyJYUqCsrAp_NY&original_request_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2F
Is it just the 4x4 3rd gens that have the sway bar in the way of the transmission pan I have 99 4runner and there is more than enough clearance so I dont have to remove the sway bar. Also very descriptive video I will be tackling this job since whoever did my transmission drain and refill last decided to strip the pan and put thread sealer on the threads a temporary fix. But might as well do the filter while I'm down there!
It sounds like 2wd transmissions have the pan further back which makes it easier to access! Dang, sorry to hear about the previous mechanic. Get yourself a thread restorer or thread tapper to fix the mistake that was made or hopefully there are no stripped threads and all you have to worry about is cleaning up the extra gasket material someone put on there. We hope to hear back from you soon on this job to understand how it went! - Sean
Great Vid!! Nobody makes such good vids. Gonna add that us guys in the RUST BELT to pre-treat/soak any through or exposed transmission pan bolts. I also added a spin on adapter in the return line. It uses the same 3614 style filters.
Thanks for helping us all Timmy. Want to share that some of us drive in corrosive environments. For example, I found my dipstick tubes completely fused together. Fortunately, I was able to disconnect dipstick-tube from the engine, drop the pan from the transmission, and wiggled and turned both tubes through, still connected together, down the small side opening, oil-pan and all. Nothing but a torch and applied force would separate the 2 tubes after 23 years of being together. Apparently, moisture funneled itself into the lower pan tube flange, and over time, rusted the tubes together. I guess it didn't help that its O-ring was missing. Anyone else have this setback?
The gasket that comes with the filter is a replacement for the original FIPG ( Form in Place Gasket). Some have had good luck with those cork gaskets, and others not so much.and they eventually develop leak. FIPG is superior because it can flow into any imperfections or low spots in the metal much better than a paper or cork gasket can.
Good question. Most do it for peace of mind. If someone bought a rig with unknown service records and the trans fluid was black, there's a good chance there's more deposits blocking fluid flow than if the transmission got regular fluid exchanges. That filter could easily be something you never replace, unless the trans fails and the filter is replaced as part of the service.
do you really have to take the sway bar off? for us in the rust belt its easier to have to move things a certain way to get it off then to remove more rusty bolts and potentially strip or snap them off.
People have had good luck with the rubber seals provided with the filters. I prefer the FIPG because it will better fill any imperfections in the metal surfaces preventing any leaks.
Please tell us exactly what is this year and model car on your video . We could learn it . Is This procedure same as 2005 Toyota 4 runner limited V8 4.7 L engine .Thank you very much for your teaching step by step all of it .
Hey brother I have a question. I have a 1994 pickup I bought with 157k miles. I checked the fluid via dipstick and it’s brown. I doubt the previous owner ever maintained with ATF changes. You recommend I change it out with a new filter as well? Or do you suggest I leave it alone. I keep getting different answers everywhere. Requires dexron 2.
It's a hard call due to the mileage and the color of the fluid, but if it were me, I'd go for the pan drop and filter replacement. You'll end up getting out around 6 quarts of the 12 quart capacity. After this, I would do a pan drain and refill in another 3-5k miles, and that will bring your fluid into pretty good shape. I do a drain and refill every 10k miles to keep my ATF in good shape.
I wish I had that tool in highschool did mine about 7 years ago in school took me 2 hrs to get that seal to break loose. Was so worried about breaking something with a screwdriver and hammer.
Hi Timmy, or anyone else who might know !!! Excellent video ! I have a question though. Why does approximately 4.5 quarts come out of the pan plug ? When I did my 02 4Runner it was about the same. The Toyota factory service manual says 2.1 quarts for a drain and fill. Why the discrepancy?!? Thanks !
I've seen the same discrepancy and I don't know why that is. All I know is when my trans is properly filled, I'll get out around 4.5 quarts. I wouldn't worry about the manual. I'm certain if we ran our transmission 2 quarts lower, we would be having transmission issues.
Thank you Timmy the toolman,for such amazing videos. I'm new owner of 94 2wd automatic 22re pickup. I noticed that there is leaking around the entire pan of my transmission. I wiped it away and it looks like grey sealant. The fluid isn't pretty color when I check it with dipstick. Should I change the filter? I'm not sure when it was done. I'm so ready to get her on road again. I haven't found anyone that has done it on them. But I trust you, watched a lot of your videos already before I even noticed that! Thank you for sharing your knowledge of these trustworthy vehicles!
If the fluid is pretty dirty, it's not a bad idea to replace the filter because it could be partially blocked up due to deposits left from the dirty fluid. When the fluid is renewed at regular intervals, the filters could last a lifetime. The transmission sealed with sealant is common. Paper, cork or rubber gaskets are usually aftermarket. Toyota uses the Red 1281 FIPG to seal transmission pans.
Hello timmy.! Your great video inspired me to take on this repair myself! And I find myself in a concerning spot. I've 284k on my runner, drove roughly 20k out of that. Don't know if previous owner changed fluids. Upon draining the fluid I found about a teaspoon full of small metal shavings in the oil and filter. Is my transmission done.? Should I flush or just drain and fill.? Thanks in advance.!
You have a decent amount of miles on the rig and it's expected you would have some metal debris buildup in the oil and the filter. I wouldn't worry about it. With a transmission with an unknown service history, it's smarter to just do a drain and refill. Introducing the full capacity of the system with fresh ATF could break free sludge deposits (ATF has good detergent qualities) in the trans and then those sludge deposits could become lodged in a fluid passageway in the valve body and cause problems. Do one drain and refill, wait another 5k miles or so and possibly time it with your engine oil change and do another drain and refill. After another 5k miles, do another one. After the 3rd drain and refill, your fluid will be in really good shape. After that, you could do like I do and do a drain and refill every 10k miles or every other engine oil change. I believe it's better to introduce new fluid more frequently than wait, say 30k miles, to do a full flush. I did a Blackstone Labs analysis of my fluid at one of my 10k interval drain and refills and the report said my fluid was in great shape. Good luck with your rig and Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Thnak you so much.! I went ahead and did a drain and fill with the filter change. The transmission stopped kicking and its soo smooth.! I was worried it was going to get worse. Will definitely stay on top of my fluid changes.! Thanks for the advice and keep the Amazing videos Rolling.!!
@@CaptainSponge12 Glad it worked out well for you buddy. Sean and I are hear to help so if you have more questions, you know where to find us. Happy Wrenching!
It was for a 4wd model. Just to be sure, you should go on a Toyota parts seller website and confirm the filter for your 2002 is the same one. That part number was for a 2000. The 2000 and the 2002 are different model transmissions but they may use the same filter.
Hey Timmy! I dropped my pan and replaced my filter on my 4Runner following the steps here. The only difference was I used the rubber gasket that came with the kit at first, that didn’t seal. So I did it again with the gasket maker. That also seems to be slowly leaking by as well! I may have put a bit too thick of a bead around the pan, is that even possible?? I cleaned both surfaces really well and tightened down the bolts (just under the torque spec, i think it was around 45-50in.lb, scared to break the bolts also) thanks!
Putting too much FIPG isn't going to cause a leak. It will just smoosh out the sides as you tighten the bolts to spec. Putting too little however could cause a leak. There is a chance that when you brought the pan into position to the bottom of the transmission you smeared some of the FIPG off at one location and left an insufficient amount to create a proper seal. That's the only thing I can think of. The reason FIPG is superior to a rubber, cork, or paper gasket is it has the ability to flow into imperfections into the surface of the pan or the surface of the trans.
Helpful, my rav4 had a coarse mesh screen filter that collected only metal bits. Of course I failed and replaced it with paper instead of investing in a better gasket and calling it done.
You'll probably be ok with that gasket. I prefer the FIPG because it will handle imperfections in the sealing surfaces better than a paper gasket but lots of guys use the paper or cork gaskets for reassembly because they don't want to deal with scraping off gasket sealer if they have to drop the pan again. Glad you found our video helpful.
@@TheMissingtime Oh, I gotcha. Yeah, you'll probably want to go back in and replace that filter after around 30-50k miles. I added a Magnetic Filter in my transmission cooler return line near the radiator for extra filtration. These filters are rated to last for 30k miles but I just go ahead and replace it every 10k miles when I do a drain and refill of the pan. By adding the extra filtration of the fluid, that OEM fine mesh metal filter will never get clogged up and you'll never need to drop the pan again unless it's for another reason like replacing shift solenoids. With the magnetic filter in the return line near the bottom of the radiator, it's easy to get to and replace compared to dropping the trans pan which is a pain in the butt. There's a link to the filter I use in the video description.
i have 262000 miles on mine and i do not know the transmission service history should i change out the fluid that i drained or should i reuse that fluid (my fluid is about as dark as the one in this vid if that helps)
Your fluid must be in decent shape if it's similar in color to the fluid drained in the video. This video.was shot using my 2000 4runner and I regular drain and refills on it.
Hey Timmy do you think you could submerge that filter in lacquer thinner to clean it? Lacquer thinner will just about clean anything metal without any seals it can attack. That gunk on the screen will dissolve in that lacquer thinner.
That might work. I know others have just shot a bunch of brake cleaner in there, shook it up, dumped it out and repeated until they felt it was probably clean enough. What I believe though is this filter getting clogged is only an issue with people who have abused their transmission and haven't regularly renewed the fluid. If you renew the fluid at a regular interval, you wouldn't ever have the need to drop the pan and either clean or replace this filter. I really wanted to see how much metal debris had accumulated on the bottom of my pan to give me an idea of the health of my transmission so that's what inspired me to drop the pan. For people who know the history of services of the transmission, if the fluid was renewed regularly, there is no need to do this job.
Great Video really informative, I need to take off the transmission sump pan and replace a faulty shift solenoid, my vehicle is a 1997 Toyota Hilux Surf / forerunner 3rd Gen 3.0L diesel engine number KZN-185 the reason for replacing the solenoid is due to a shift issue, but I can't find any info on which shift solenoid controls the forward gears i.e. 1 - 4 the vehicle wont go up through the gears it stays in 1st, I have no issues with any other gear positions i.e. its ok in reverse no issue with Low or 2, so I believe the shift solenoid for the 4 forward gears is the issue, my question is do you know which solenoid in the transmission controls the forward gear change, your help would be much appreciated.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hi thanks for the reply, would you believe that even the parts dept do not know which solenoid controls the forward gear shift selection, even asked a technician and he wasn't sure, I have purchased all 3 and will get each current solenoid tested and replace the faulty one the Toyota dealer has agreed to take the ones that aren't required back as long as still in the packaging.
@fernandopozuelos22 You need to use an ATF that is compatible with the original spec, which was Dexron 3. I don't think the WS fluid is compatible. The WS is for newer transmissions. I use Valvoline Maxlife.
@@TimmyTheToolmanOk master thanks, there is a liqui moly atf top tec 1200 oil, it is more expensive but it says it is compatible with a340f 4runner 97
Curious. When installing a used/reman transmission where you don't know how much fluid is in the transmission how do you go about adding transmission to the correct amount? Add fluid till it appears on the dipstick and then adjust accordingly?
I would fill it at least to the upper cold level mark when it's off, start the engine briefly and then shut it down. If the torque converter was dry, it will suck up a bunch of fluid so I would start it and stop it pretty quickly, maybe let it run a few seconds. I'd then recheck the level and see how much it dropped. If it did drop, I'd refill it to the upper cold level mark and do another quick start and stop and then check again if the level dropped. Once the level is stable, I'd start it, and add fluid until you have the level at the upper cold level. After you have it filled to the upper cold level with the engine running, I'd take it for a drive and get it up to operating temp, somewhere between 155-175 degrees. I'd then make sure the level is between the hot level marks. I usually have it filled to the upper hot mark when the trans is at operating temp.
@@TimmyTheToolman sounds like a great plan! thanks and keep up the great work! because of your videos primarily I'll hold on to my 3rd gen for a lot longer I hope!
I'm getting ready to do a flush and a filter change. Would it be best to perform the flush before changing the transmission filter? So your not passing old fluid through the new filter?
Yes, I would flush first. You will end up wasting a pan full of fluid but it would be the smartest move to avoid pushing dirty fluid through a new filter.
Not a dumb question. Yes, there is a difference. The 103 Black is meant for engine oil applications. The 1281 Red is meant for transmissions, transfer cases and differentials.
I read somewhere that the black could be used on transmissions. Therfore used. Uggh! Before i add the fluid should i remove and redo with red? @TimmyTheToolman
Thank you for all you do, I'm getting ready to do valve covers on grandson's 2000 4runner. I have 2004 4runner, with 190,000 one owner i had a flush at 80,000, the transmission is flawless, the fluid color is not true red, was going to do a home flush. I recently read Toyota tech guy on youtube stating you might do more harm then good, considering the miles i have gone since the first one. What's your take on this, thanks again.
If you're concerned, just do a drain and refill of the pan which will exchange around 4-4.5 quarts of the 12 quart system. Follow that up with another drain and refill 5k miles later or timed with your next engine oil/filter change. Then follow up that up with a 3rd pan drain and refill, after another 5k miles and the trans fluid should be in pretty good shape. This will slowly renew the fluid rather than doing it all at once with the flush. This would be the safest way to renew the fluid.
Hey Tim, question for ya. I recently watched/completed your valve cover and timing belt jobs and now am more confident to tackle other jobs. I've had my gen 3 since 03 and have never touched the transmission fluid. Everything seems to shift and work properly, but when I replaced and drained my radiator the transmission fluid had a foul/burnt smell. I heard somewhere that if I have never touched the transmission, that you could potentially damage the transmission by replacing the fluid.....is this true? It seems like a very easy job, and I'm kicking myself for not taking care of it before. The transmission has 263K on it. Thank you!
There's some truth to not changing fluid on a trans that's been abused. One theory is the old fluid is holding suspended clutch material which the transmission if relying upon to shift properly. If you flush all that old fluid out, the trans now slips. The other and more believable theory is the abused trans has sludge deposits built up in it. New ATF has great detergent qualities to it. When you introduce a whole bunch of new fluid into an abused trans, that new fluid starts working on the sludge deposits and breaks some of it free. Some of that debris could get lodged in a fluid passageway and starve part of the trans of fluid. If I were you, I'd just do a drain and refill of the pan which will exchange about 1/3 of the capacity or around 4-4.5 quarts. Drive the rig for around 3000 miles and then perform another drain and refill. Then follow that up with a 3rd drain and refill after another 3000 miles. This way you do it slowly and hopefully clean out the sludge deposits at a safer and slower rate. After that 3rd drain and refill, your fluid will be in pretty good shape. Follow that up with a drain and refill every 10,000 miles or every other oil change. This is what I do for all my rigs. I never perform a full flush because drain and refills are super easy to do and very effective at keeping your fluid in great shape. It's a dilution process by adding new fluid that will mix with old fluid but I've sent a sample of my fluid into Blackstone Labs and got a great report back which proved to me that regular drain and refills will keep your fluid in great shape. That's my best advice for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman hi Tim, thanks for all the vids. Just bought a '97 with 259,000. Tranny fluid looks rough. I will do the tranny fluid changes every 3000 miles as you stated, however, should I replace the filter on the first change? Thank you again
So I've had conflicting answers to the questions of that I have never changed the trans fluid on my 2000 Tacoma. 215000 miles. Many say don't mess with it since it's never been done because is I do change the fluid it will start slipping. Others say go ahead and do it. I'm very torn as to what to do. What is your opinion? I will anxiously be awaiting your reply. Thank you for your time!
Hey Mike, due to the fact your transmission fluid has never been changed, the damage is already done and the trans has experienced additional wear because of it. The reason why people say don't change it is because the dirty black ATF is probably holding suspended clutch material and it's helping your transmission not slip. You definitely don't want to do a full flush. At the most, do a drain and refill of the pan and drain the fluid into a clean container. If after the drain and refill you are having shifting and/or slipping problems, drain the pan and add the old fluid back in. Draining the pan will replace around 1/3 of the system capacity. If everything goes ok with this drain and refill, do another one in10k miles and every 10k after that. Doing fairly regular drain and refills will keep your trans fluid in great shape and a full flush is not necessary. I hope this helps.
Well, I'd see how the drain and refill goes. Maybe a little ways down the road you could drop the pan. Many think the trans filter is a lifetime part because it's a strainer and not a filter with media that can get clogged easily. I did it because dropping the pan would give me an idea how healthy my trans was based off how much accumulation of metal debris was on the magnets and how much non-metal debris was on the bottom of the pan.
Hello Tim! I have a 97' Toyota 4Runner 2WD that is throwing the P0773 code. My mechanic only changed the Shift E solenoid and it is still throwing the code. They went ahead and changed the filter, cleaned the connectors, replaced the Shift E solenoid, replaced the ECM and is still throwing the code. Would it be wise to change out all of the solenoids/filter with OEM parts or equivalent?
Shift solenoids are expensive. There's a way you can test them by checking the ohms resistance. You might want to drop the pan again and test the shift solenoids with a micrometer to see if any of the solenoids are bad.
Did you end up figuring out what it was brotha!? I have that code as well and I'm going to change fluids and filters on this up coming weekend cause I don't know the history of the vehicle! Any advise helps and TYIA
Excellent video, sir. One question: Why would you want to use the sealant out of a tube when you could use a preformed gasket? Seems like putting on a gasket would make the installation job easier and quicker and also make the next dismantling job so much easier.
explorepikespeak that’s how it came from the factory & that’s how the factory service manual suggests doing it. We would argue a good bead of FIPG could seal better & longer than a preformed gasket. There hopefully won’t be a next time for a very long time with this job. The trans pan really doesn’t need to be dropped often.
@joeblow22219 If you're saying there's a heavy accumulation of metal on the magnets, we'll, the damage is already done. That trans is probably on borrowed time, but maybe it isn't, and it will last a long time. If you're going to put that trans in your rig, I would definitely replace the filter and renew the fluid. On a filter change, you'll exchange around 6 quarts of the 12 quart capacity.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the response! I have watched so many of your videos, they have been incredibly helpful. the shavings are in the current transmission and yeah its probably on borrowed time. I was wondering about the replacement transmission. If i find a lower milage used one to put in that has been tested (hopefully no metal shavings) should i change the filter and fluid? I dont have the lift to do this so I am going to have to bring it to a shop. BTW I did follow this video and change the filter and fluid which seemed to help the issue but not fix it. The torque converter or pump is making a winding / whining sound in P/R/D. I was pretty sure it was going to be a futile effort but couldnt help myself to see what it looked like and what happens. for science.
@@joeblow22219 OK, I understand the situation now. I think I would drop the pan and renew the fluid on the used transmission so you can inspect the level of metal debris on the magnets to get an idea of the health of the used transmission you're installing. And, getting the fluid in good shape is smart as well.
There are different filters for the 3rd Gen years and I'm not sure if your 99 takes the same one. Best to visit a dealership or use an online Toyota parts supplier website to look it up.
Thank you sir, very helpful. Just followed your steps on an '01 4wd 4runner today and all went great until I went to bolt the pan back on. One of the bolts kept spinning after I got it tightened as far as I could. The bolt head didn't pop off (I didn't over-torque it) so my guess is that the threads were stripped from a service performed while the previous owner had it. Think it's ok to just leave it and check from time to time for leaks? Not sure what else to do, any advice?
Can you get that bolt out that is spinning? If so, you can try retapping the threads. If that doesn’t work, you could drill it out, tap it and install a helicoil.
I was able to get the bolt out with no issue at all. Sadly though, the new bolt from Toyota spun the same. I used a rubber gasket so I'm going to keep a close eye for any leaks and if one appears, I'll go the helicoil route.
Do you know what the intervals are like on a 5th gen? I keep seeing conflicting stuff online. Some say 60k, others say just drain and fill every 30k. The fsm has you dropping the pan like here though for a flush.
You're right that there's conflicting information, lots of it. With these sealed transmissions, Toyota and others will say the fluid is lifetime which is utter bullshit. No fluid lasts forever. The system holds around 12 quarts. On a drain and refill, you'll get out around 4 quarts, 1/3 of the capacity. If you did a drain and refill every 30k, it would take 90k miles to introduce 12 quarts into the system. In my opinion, that's insufficient for some people and I'll explain why. As the temperature of the fluid goes up, the life of the fluid goes down. If your fluid never got above 170 degrees, it could last for 100,000 miles. You could only do that if you never drive in the mountains or tow. If you do either, you will experience trans fluid temps much higher than 170 degrees. The old standard use to be to renew your trans fluid every 30,000 miles. Now it's something like every 60,000, every 100,000 or never. Is ATF that more advanced than it was back in the day? I don't know. Draining and refilling the pan is simple and relatively affordable. For my 3rd Gen 4runners, I do a drain and refill every 10,000 miles so I'm introducing 12 quarts into the system every 30,000 miles. Many would say that's overkill, and that's ok. It's my rigs and I'll service them as I see fit. I don't think a dropping of the pan and replacement of the filter is necessary unless you know or suspect the trans was abused and the fluid was allowed to get very dirty. We did a service for a sealed transmission on a FJ Cruiser that would help you out. ua-cam.com/video/gx5dU3UVcRs/v-deo.html Service your trans based off how you drive it. If you drive in the mountains a lot or tow, service it more often. Good luck!
Please refer to your vehicles owner manual for the maintenance schedule of your vehicle. In general, every 30-60k miles. It’s also good to take a look at your transmission dip stick to see what condition the fluid is. If it’s red, that’s good, if it’s black, that’s bad. If you don’t know the history of the fluid changes on your vehicle, take caution and don’t flush the fluid. Do a series of drain and refills. It is not necessarily required to replace the trans filter, but if your fluid is dark, brown and burnt, it may be a good idea to replace it then, or possibly every 100k miles depending on your driving habits.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you . It doesnt have a dip stick . It has 50k and i bought it new , iv changed all other fluids except the transmission fluid . Iv seen a couple videos on transmission fluid changed for these tacomas but i havent seen one where they change out the filter so i wasnt sure if it had one or not or why they dont replace it
@@agustinherrera5600 Your filter will also be a fine metal mesh screen and would only need to be replaced if you knew the transmission was seriously neglected for a ton of miles and there's a chance deposits in the fluid have built up enough to cause a fluid construction in the filter. Renewing the fluid is what you should do. Faye Hadley has a good video on how to service sealed transmissions.
@@TimmyTheToolman ok thanx i think mine should be fine i dont drive it to bad only about 20 miles per day and it has 50k now ill wait a bit but when i change it ill only change the fluid
The best part of this video was when you mentioned "you have to use some common sense", I agree 100%. Thanks for the very detailed tutorial video. You are a real pro auto mechanic.
I appreciate your comment. Thank you!
Your videos have saved me hundreds if not thousands of dollars by allowing me to tackle the work myself and keeping my vehicle in top notch condition. 230,000 miles and still going strong. Thank you.
That's great to hear and the reason why we do what we do. We're all about empowering people to handle their own automotive work. So, good job taking up the challenge. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
The level of value and attention to detail in your content is insane.
joshua ott that’s our modus operandi. Thanks for your comment and we hope these videos empower you to tackle these repairs on your own!
Couldn't agree more!
I'm with these guys, so thorough!!! Killin it
Do you mean even a Democrat can do this?
When I bought my 4runner, I did regular maintenance when I got it but read the filter was lifetime so I didn't touch it other than draining and refilling the transmission about 5 quarts. Driving it regularly, I developed a weird rattle noise from the transmission area. I couldn't not narrow it down and just chalked it up to my transmission dying at 170,000 miles. I did try one last thing and drop the pan and change the filter and flush all the old fluid out. That helped immediately. The noise went away, the sluggishness went away. I looked at the old filter and there was just gunk covering the whole screen. I think the transmission was getting starved of fluid. It was like a brand new 4Runner. So I recommend everyone change out their filter at least every 100,000, if not sooner. It's cheap maintenance.
Thank you
RandRDetailing - was your transmission only making noise when in gear and reverse (but not in park or neutral)? My 4runner is doing that now @ about 200,000 miles, but otherwise is shifting fine. the noise is for sure coming from tranny, and not the power steering pump or alternator, etc. i've done drain and fills a few times over the years and just now, but is still "rattles/whines" in gear. will drop the pan soon and check the filter, hoping this might help....
@@michaelbruce3893I hope you found a solution. I have an 04 v6. Just did a drain and fill with about 3.2 qts. Feels better. Didn’t replace the filter and wondering if I’m a retard for not doing it.
I benefits from your series of videos on the 3rd gen 4runner. I can't believe after 6+ years, you are still actively replying the comments. Appreciate that. Second, I can't believe how much fun and peace and money savings you have bring to the community!
@@amazdrm Yep, we do our best to reply to people's comments and questions. Thanks for your comment. We appreciate it!
Thanks for the video! I love that high quality DIY vids are being produced for our beloved 3rd gen 4runner.
You're welcome and we're glad you like our channel. Happy Wrenching!
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Oh man - thank you so much! 10 videos watched later, you were the ONLY one who showed how to put FIPG on the surface - everyone else skipped because of the 10 minutes to install requirement. A def new sub!
You're very welcome Mitch. I'm glad our video showed you what you needed. You'll find all of our videos are very detailed. Welcome to our channel!
Hey Timmy, just wanted to say I really like your content and that it’s awesome to see a fellow Toyota enthusiasts spreading their knowledge about these great vehicles.
Sean and I are definitely Toyota enthusiasts. We're just a couple dudes trying to give back to the DIYer Mechanic Community. We're glad you like our channel. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman exellent video's! My tundra keep leaking from the transmission tail shaft seal/gasket. I've replaced it 4 time's. About, to replace for the 5th time. I've had the dealer replace it & I've done it. Any advice or reason why it continues to fail? Thanks.
*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
With the added magnetic filter I installed in the transmission cooler return line, I don't plan on ever replacing the trans filter again on my 2000 4runner. I do a drain and refill of the trans pan every 10,000 miles and I replace the magnetic filter at the same time. The added filtration the magnetic filter offers will keep the trans filter under the pan from ever becoming clogged up. It's a fair amount of labor to remove that pan, so if I can avoid ever having to do it again, that would be ideal. The magnetic filter is very easy to replace because it's just a couple hose clamps to loosen to get the old filter out and a new filter in. I highly recommend people adding a magnetic filter to their automatic transmission system.
I pretty much beat a dead horse advising it's better to replace the filter instead of trying to clean it out. Another reason to replace the filter rather than clean it is the cork gaskets on the filter become compressed and less supple due to age. The suction of fluid into the filter is reliant on a good seal from those cork gaskets. Risking a bad seal with those cork gaskets is another reason why I think it's better to replace the filter instead of cleaning it out and reusing it.
Can you do a quick video on adding a magnetic filter please? I also have a transmission cooler as well
I am glad you made this video I started out as a transition mechanic and we never used gasket sealer on transmutations and I would have been surprised to find the the pan glued to the trans and would not have been properly prepared to separate the pan. keeping the valve body clean while cleaning the trans body is very important. Using gasket sealer on a automatic trans is something I would have never done on American transitions. Good thorough video Thanks
Yeah, when I first started working on cars in the early 80's, all the American made vehicles had cork gaskets and you had to drop the pan and replace the filter every time you wanted to renew the fluid. It was a very messy job every time. Having trans pans with a drain plug makes life much easier. Also, with a filter that is just a fine mesh metal screen, I believe this filter could be left alone for the life of the transmission if the fluid was renewed at regular intervals. If the fluid was never allowed to get really black and sludged up, I don't think this filter would ever need to be replaced. I'm now running an inline magnetic filter in my fluid return line and that's going to filter out even more material than the stock trans filter can. I dropped my pan out of curiosity to see how much metal debris had accumulated on the magnets and to see if the trans filter was significantly clogged up. From what I saw, I could have left it alone and been fine. So, if a person doesn't know the service history for their transmission, I'd suggest doing this job. If they know the service history and the trans received regular fluid renewals, I'd suggest they leave it alone and not drop the pan to replace the filter because they are going to find what I found, magnets with very little debris and a trans filter 95% unclogged.
I expect the gasket should seal good enough . And that torquing all bolts to specs and the right pattern should be enough . Maybe just a gasket " spray " on the pan for the gasket to remain in place while installing .
Good ass video!!! Thanks Tim! Always coming in to save the day . Just did a service on my 02 4Runner sport Ed w/265,000 miles. Running great
Hey Isaac, we're glad you like the video and it helped you get the job done. You're very welcome and good to hear you're rig is running well. Happy Wrenching!
hows it running
Do you know when the fluid was last changed prior to that?
Another great video Timmy! After watching your valve cover gasket video. I must say the video quality is 100% better. Maybe it's that Sean learned to hold the camera still. Lol!
Thanks Lance. Glad you like the video. Better camera, better audio and yeah, we're a little less shaky too. Sean only filmed half of this job. My buddy Wei filmed the second half.
Tim, thanks so much. Learning a lot from you for my new....well ok two months old...98. Your a champ at this. I have a little trick I use to align all my water pumps, pans, etc. Get 4 longer bolts and cut off the heads and put them in at finger tight.... or (allthread) to line up the pans when using the goo. No more with the eff ups I used to do with my tremor.👍
That's a good tip. Thanks for sharing it.
Very informative video! I used this as a guide to change the tranny filter on my 04 Taco. A couple of things that I learned while doing mine…
1. I didn’t have the special tool to break the seal, so I carefully used a putty knife and a rubber mallet. I was able to break it free when I broke the seal starting from the rear of the truck.
2. Be sure to support the pan while breaking it free! That pan drops down quick and can get really messy.
3. On my 04 Tacoma 2WD, I found that I didn’t have to remove the sway bar to pull the pan off. There was enough room provided to where I didn’t have to fight the pan removal.
All in all, it wasn’t hard to do at all. It was a lot easier than my wife’s 08 Highlander!
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for sharing your experience with this job. Glad our video helped you out and you're very welcome.
I took an old putty knife and cut most of the blade off and smoothed the edges.
The first time I changed my 2000 4Runner's transmission filter, all the part stores did not carry my specific filter, and I had to order the filter online!! What a pain that was. Great job as always my brother Tim! You are the man, keep 4Running.
Thanks Brother Jake.
Excellent instructions as usual. I thought you were being over-cautious dropping the anti-sway bar completely (so I only undid the mounts and dropped it a little). Everything went great, torqued everything down and was truly happy until I noticed some of the silicon on the cross member. Looks like when I was maneuvering the pan over the sway bar I took quite a bit of silicon off. However, by this point it was already setting up... so I may get some more practice at this job if I am not lucky enough to get a seal.
The original job was the shift solenoid replacement (did all three). Glad I took the pan off because the last guy who did forgot the magnets. So after considering eBay and the heat resistant magnets from China - which would take a month to get here, I had to pay something like $75 for 4 magnets from the dealer which look exactly like the magnets sold at the dollar store. They must have special powers. For those who are doing this repair, take the sway bar off like he suggests. It will save you time and make the job easier.
Jeez Louise, $75 for magnets. That's highway robbery. Yeah, when I first looked at what it would take to get the pan out and back in, I was wondering if I could maneuver around the sway bar. Since I've taken the sway bar out many times and know it's not that much work to do, I just decided to get it out of my way so I'd have an easier time with the pan. Hopefully your pan isn't going to leak and you won't have to do this job again.
I have watched several of your you tube videos and they are very informative. Thank you for taking the time to do them. I also like your camera work and lighting as they are very, very useful to anyone checking it out. I should have put that comment on my other post. I do some metal working and I would take a not too abrasive flap disc(maybe 220 grit) to that pan(not the tranny) to clean that gasket off pretty fast. Your are doing a great job!
It's great to hear you appreciate the videos we are making. Getting the right camera angles and lighting is very important because we want to give our viewers the most detail as possible. When people set up a stationary camera when filming an automobile tutorial, you quite often miss things that might be very important to see. We like to get the camera right in there where the work is happening which isn't always easy to do.
Your idea to clean up the trans pan would work great. The last time I did this job, I used a wire disk on my drill to quickly knock off most of the gasket material off the pan. The Dremel with a wire wheel works well but the regular drill with a bigger wire wheel was much faster. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for a great video! I called our local Toyota dealership to buy a new filter. The parts guy said the filter was just a steel mesh and didn't need changed, just change the fluid. I was skeptical so I came here to see what was involved. Now I'm going to change the filter.
You're welcome Chris. Lots of people including myself believe these fine metal mesh filters can be a lifetime filter and never need changing. But, if you have a vehicle with an unknown service history, it's not a bad idea to drop the pan and verify the filter isn't clogged and just replace it while you're in there.
Nice video.
I have an old LandCruiser with 150'000 miles on it, I bought it with 130'000 on the clock.
The gears were a bit clunky, $30 worth of ATF was the best money I ever spent. Smooth, smooth gear changes now.
I am now planning on doing a filter change, especially after watching your cut open filter.
You made a very good point, if you don't know the history of the vehicle, which I don't, change the filter.
For all I know it could still have the original 150'000 mile filter on it. I will do the timing belt and water pump first because again I don't know how old it is but the filter will be after that.
Oh yes, nearly forgot,
get some threaded bar, metric, different small sizes, it is cheap. Cut four short lengths the same thread as the sump bolts at about 3 inches long, prior to lifting up the sump covered in goo, thread the short lenths into the four corners of the gearbox, now you can slide the pan over the threaded rods which will guide it into the correct position, now insert the bolts.
finally remove the rods and insert the last bolts..
This works on any tricky gasket jobs, hense why I said get a few sizes.
Harvey Smith Hey Harvey, glad you like the video. I like the threaded rod idea. Thanks for sharing it.
Best videos for working on my wife’s 3rd gen 4Runner and my 1st gen Tacoma. Thanks dude.
Thanks Joshua. Great to hear you like what Sean and I are doing. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
So I had the honor of doing this today. I was able to remove the nuts on top of the sway bar links and just rotated the sway bar ends up and this will give you all the clearance you need for the pan to clear. I typically use gaskets but I followed your way putting FIPG and everything went smooth, except I almost forgot to reattach the sway links. Oh, the pan removal tool works awesome!
Good job Chris!
Yet again you guys deliver a sound clear video. You are my go to for all my jobs I do on my 1996 Toyota . You rescued me on my diff seal replacement and fitted oil cooler now to do so filter change
Thank you
You're very welcome Matt. It's great to know our channel is your go to for the jobs you need to perform on your 3rd Gen. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy the Toolman thanks for all your help gonna tackle all these fluid replacements saving hundreds if not thousands !
Good job Brian. Doing your own work is rewarding on many levels.
Great video Tim! I recently had to do the same thing and replaced the shift solenoids. I found that the Dremel was the best tool for removing the old gasket too. It saves a ton a time and gives you peace of mind that some old gasket isn’t going to mess with new gasket and then cause a leak.
Glad you like the video. I'm happy I bought that Dremel tool kit because it's proved to be very handy for a lot of jobs.
Saroun Sam how did your shift solenoid repair end up working out? I'm doing that this weekend and hope it fixes the code
@@kevinnn116 it fixed my issue. Tranny was flaring between 2nd and 3rd gear if I recall correctly. It’s been a while. It’s a cheap fix and isn’t too hard to do so might as well try. If you’ve got a code then you might have the same issue I had. I had about 230k on the clock. Hope this gives you more insight.
@@iadgreen28 I'm doing it this weekend. Got code p0770 and when it's cold out my 4runner gets stuck in reverse gear and revs really high. Drive also slips until it warms up then drives perfectly. I'm at 190k miles but abused by prior owner.
Thanks for showing the filter and how dirty it gets. My toyota dealership was gonna charge me $800 for an ATF and filter change lol. They said they never change the filters usually cuz they’re a mesh screen and don’t need to be changed. I took it home and did a drain and fill myself. Was gonna skip doing the filter because the 2012 camry pan bolts are hard to reach but seeing how dirty it gets convinced me I need to changed it. Car has 126,000 miles and I didnt change it til now cuz dealership kept saying its ‘lifetime’ and now I know better lol.
Hmmm, I actually didn't think the filter material was that dirty. It was actually pretty clean. I pretty much tell people what the dealership told you that these filters don't need to be replaced. I tell people if the transmission has an unknown history and the fluid is in bad shape, black color, than maybe it might be prudent to drop the pan because the filter could be more clogged up due to the fluid being so dirty.
@@TimmyTheToolman ya my fluid was pretty dark and thick when I drained it. I put some on a paper towel and it was still dark brown but not black like I’ve seen burnt atf become. The 126,000 mile old fluid smelled bad to me but when I smelled the Toyota WS brand new in the bottle it smelled bad as well lol so I went ahead and changed it. I did’t have a way to reach the difficult bolts on the driver side tucked under the frame to change the filter but I read some people have luck with Offset wrenches so I’m gonna get one and see if I can get a hold on the bolts to change the filter as well cuz I’m sure it’s dirty and restricting fluid flow at least somewhat. Do you think an offset wrench will work? I don’t have a jack or way to lift the tranny to get at the bolts. I’m doing this all in my level garage on the ground lol.
@@petsquirrelable Yeah, with the dirty fluid, probably not a bad idea to change out the filter. I can't see what you're dealing with so it's hard for me to advise you on the tools necessary.
Thank you Timmy. I have been trying to find out what size the bolt is that holds the dip stick tube to the head. And you have just given it to me. Size 12 😀 thanks again.
It’s hidden from the top view by the bracket and I hope I can get to it from the wheel well.
I want to replace the filter but I couldn’t get that darn bolt out. I’ll get er this time.
You're welcome and good luck with the job.
Thank you! Tried dropping the pan with sway bar in place. No bueno. Only had to drop the passenger side. Replaced the end link while I was at it.
You're welcome. Good job getting it done.
The other contaminant which clogs the filter are the fiber clutch disc in all of the clutch packs which grind against steel ring shims in the multiple clutch packs
Your videos are great man. So much detail and patients and so much help. Thank you for making these.
Thanks for the compliment, and you're very welcome.
I like your channel because you do Toyotas. I am a Toyota man also. I have put 13 qts through my 02 Sienna transmission in the past 5 months. The first drop I did the filter and it was bad! The magnets were silver. It shifts much better and when it is cold. Keep up the Toyota videos. Waiting for a diesel Tundra...
Glad you like our channel. What was wrong with the filter? Was it clogged up? That's great you got your transmission shifting better. Just goes to show what a little maintenance will do.
Timmy The Toolman
I did not cut mine open but I know it was original and it looked bad in the enter and exit holes. 210K when it was changed. Original fluid also.
I gotcha. If the fluid was changed on a regular basis, your filter probably would have looked like mine. Mine was a little bit clogged on the small port that faces the valve body but it wasn't too bad. I'm still glad I replaced mine.
Timmy The Toolman
I had your FEAR about transmissions and changing fluid on older transmissions. I felt I had to because it was going longer and longer between gear changes. I asked another UA-cam mechanic and he advised multiple drops till it comes to red color and to change the filter. I feel confident now and have done 4 different model cars in the last 5 months. I am getting ready to do a dipstickless Camry soon with a bidirectional scanner for fluid temp level checking. I have the WS ready
This was a very good video. I am glad you are no longer livin' a lie.
Glad you like the video Paul. Nice Timmy Southpark quote.
Well, you’re like Japanese mechanic in American body.. you do take pride in what you do and do it even better. Thx
Thanks for thr compliment. I appreciate it!
My man, you are soooo thorough and comprehensive
👍
This is our style. We give tons of detail so people can be successful.
So my tranny fluid swap went from just that, to wanting to do all of this because I'm under there anyways! Great video, keep up the good work, so many of us appreciate it!
We're glad you like the video. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you Timmy.
Just followed your steps and all worked out greatly! Ive been watching all your videos and they are the best!
You're very welcome Erik. Good to hear our videos are helping you out. Thanks for the comment. We appreciate it!
Exellent video, very well done, you explain every step well and very good visual shots, thank you. 👍
Thanks Steven for the compliment. We're glad you found the video helpful and you're very welcome. Happy Wrenching!
I always check the torque specs on the valve body when removing the filter, Since there are a lot of bolts right there, Ive had many occasions doing a service on peoples vehicles and the bolts on the valve body were loose or hanging out, just thought id mention..
Thanks for sharing. Didn't think to check the torque of the valve body bolts while we had the pan off.
Man you are underrated in subscription these guys are missing out... Thanks for your video...
Thank you for your comment. We really appreciate it. A lot of people use our videos every month because we can see the numbers in the analytics. I also don't understand why more people don't choose to subscribe to our channel. At the end of the day, we're helping people and that's what's important.
You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Hi Timmy, another great video. Question wondering if your going to make a video about replacing replacing the sealant for the oil pan? Thank you
Hey Jeff, I'm sure we'll do this one day but no plans for this job in the near future.
I appreciated your speaking voice is very professional can you speak very well that's coming from a compliment with about eight semesters of college speech class and communication courses
Thanks for the compliment Max, but I do have to be honest that without the video editing we do, my speech wouldn't be as polished. Nothing is scripted when we make videos, so I'm taking everything I'm saying off the top of my head. Sometimes I say exactly what I want to say on the first take, but quite often I stumble on my words and I have to repeat myself. I do think I have the ability to explain things in such a way that most people can understand, so I guess I'm a decent teacher. I appreciate your comment.
Thanks for your precious time. This helps tremendously 👍
You're welcome.
They do make rubber plugs you can put in threads that help align pans for reinstalling to help with not sliding around and messing up gasket sealer as well.
Do you have a link to the plugs you're talking about?
Tim & Sean,
I am planning to change the trans filter and do a full flush, but had a question of order. '00 3.4L 4x4, 170k, last flush (filter changed?) appears to be at ~100k, no fluid changes since🤦♂️... what should I do first?
A. Drain & replace fluid a few times then filter & flush (i only drive 3k/yr, so would literally take years)
B. Drain, change filter, flush after 5k
C. Drain, change filter, flush now
D. Timmy & Sean's better suggestion....
Thank you both for doing these videos, you've already given me the confidence to do several jobs (lower ball joints, struts & shocks etc) that I wouldn't have tackled otherwise!
I'd drop the pan and replace the filter first. That process will drain out around 6 quarts or 50% of the system. I'd drain the fluid into a graduated quart container like we show in our flush video so you know exactly how much you need to add back in to top it off. Any debris large enough in the old fluid to get stuck in the filter screen is already there so I don't think it's much of a concern to put the new filter in with some old fluid still circulating in the system. After you get the pan back on and the system topped off, I'd immediately start performing the flush procedure exchanging 1 quart at a time. Hopefully you'll have someone that can help you with this. I bet after you exchange around 6 quarts, you'll see the fluid coming out of the hose looking really clean and new because you will have effectively now exchanged the full 12 quart capacity. If the fluid isn't looking super clean, keep doing the flush procedure until it does.
You're very welcome. Great to hear our videos gave you the confidence to perform jobs you probably would have paid someone to do for you. That's awesome! Let us know how the filter replacement and flush go for you. Good luck and Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you for your very prompt advice, I really appreciate it! I'll let you know how it goes once I've lined up my assistant.
@@jhomrig1 You're very welcome. Good luck with the job.
Another awesome informative video Tim
We're glad you like it. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Have you had any issues with seeping of transmission fluid?
A shop did my filter and used a cork gasket. It Always looked wet as though it seeped. 1yr later, def seeping to where it was leaving little tiny dots of fluid on the back of the truck from highway wind blowing it up. so I had a shop re seal with just FIPG from the same shop. Still had a leak. Shop recommended replace pan due to possibly being slightly bent. Just replaced, and re sealed with Permatex gasket maker. Now again, still seeping a little when I put a white paper towel to the edges. I am out of ideas of what to do. I assume shop isn’t cleaning the serface well enough for a good seal?
Hey Anthony, I already know all about your problem via Tacoma World. I'm "Timmah". To answer your question, no, I have not seen seeping of trans fluid on the two vehicles I've done this job on. On mine, I used the Toyota red FIPG. On my buddy Wei's rig, he used a cork gasket. Even though the shop you used put a new pan on and resealed it with RTV, I think the mechanic either wasn't good about removing all the old gasket material or he did a poor job of applying the RTV when he redid the job. If the pan is new, the mechanic got a sufficient amount of RTV on the sealing surface and he correctly torqued the bolts to spec in a crossing pattern, the pan should be leak-free. Another thought is maybe the RTV they used isn't correct for this application. Toyota makes two different types of FIPG. The black FIGP is for the engine components. The red FIPG is for the transmission, transfer cases and differentials. I recommend you drop the pan, clean off the pan and transmission surfaces really well, apply Toyota Red FIPG and carefully torque the bolts to spec. The video will show you everything you need to know. Good luck!
Hi you are a great teacher, the question I have is I heard , putting the fresh transmission fluid in transmission over 100k , miles is causing the problem "sleeping ", so I like to hear from you, thanks.
Putting fresh fluid into a high mileage abused transmission has resulted in issues for some people. There's two lines of thought on why this is.
One is the abused transmission that never got a fluid exchange has caused excessive wear inside the transmission. Some of that wear is from friction material that came off the clutches. The clutches are worn, but the suspended friction material in the fluid is keeping the transmission from slipping. When you drain out the old fluid and replace it with new fluid, you lost that friction material the fluid was holding and now the transmission slips.
The second theory is the abused transmission has sludge deposit build-up inside. Transmission fluid has great detergent qualities. When you drain out the old fluid and replace with new fluid, the detergent in the fluid works on those sludge deposits and they break free. The deposits go through the system and get lodged in a tight fluid passageway like in the valve body. Part of the transmission then gets starved of lubrication and the transmission fails.
Some believe in these two theories, and others say it's bullshit and it's never bad to add fresh fluid to an automatic transmission. I lean towards believing there's some truth to these theories.
If you're worried about it, you can do a simple drain and refill of the pan. This only exchanges around 1/3 of the system capacity, around 4 quarts. After another 5,000 miles, perform a second drain and refill. After another 5,000 miles, do a third one. After the 3rd drain and refill, your fluid should be in good shape. This slowly renews the fluid rather than a full flush that renews the fluid in one shot.
Checked my 2000 Tacoma Repair manual on the torque spec for filter bolt spec and it is correct at 65 in lb. Great video as always Thanks.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.
Hey Timmy,
My 2001 4Runner has 258k and I’m not sure when or if the transmission fluid was changed by the previous owners. Should I do a drain and fill? Or the method used to also change the filter? I just want to be careful since I’ve heard others say not to do a flush since changing all the fluid could be problematic. Look forward to your advice. Thanks.
I would just do a drain and refill of the pan. You will get out around 4-4.5 quarts. I would follow that up with another drain and refill after another 3-5k miles and finally do a 3rd drain and refill after another 3-5k miles. After the 3rd drain and refill, your fluid will be in pretty good shape. This will gradually renew your system which is safer.
If you do the pan drop and filter replacement you will get out around 6 quarts or half the system capacity which might be a little riskier. Your filter could be slightly clogged, but from my experience, those filters don't get clogged up that easily. Maybe after you're done with the 3 drain and refills, you could replace the filter when you're due for another drain and refill. I do drain and refills every 10k miles to keep my ATF in good shape. I suggest others do the same. Drain and refills are easy to do and the fluid isn't expensive. It's affordable insurance to extend the life of your transmission. Good luck!
Thanks for the quick reply! I will do the first drain and refill as soon as I can. Thanks for having such an awesome channel.
Doing this maintenance on my 4Runner. The JTC gasket removal tool is a must. I was able to pivot the sway bar out of the way by removing the nuts on the outer bolts attached to the wheels, saved some time. Thanks again for such a helpful video.
Thanks for the comment and sharing your tip. You're very welcome. Glad our video helped you out.
Would you reccomend using a rubber gasket instead of the gasket maker? Whats the pros/cons of using cork vs rubber gasket ?
The sealant is superior because it can flow into imperfections in the metal that a rubber gasket can't
Nice!!! Need to do this to my 99 4x4 Ltd. Thanks for the video!!
You're welcome Nick.
Really appreciate your videos! I have a 2000 and every job iv done to it i always refer to your videos before starting to turn bolts. Iv turned about every external bolt on it and your videos have been a huge help.. thanks
Great to hear our videos have helped you out Evan. We appreciate you taking the time to comment and share this with us. Happy Wrenching!
Great video. Well done.
Im going to do this on my 2004 4runner soon cause my transmission is whining at cold start. Goes away after operating temperature is reached or when not moving and put into gear (reverse or drive). It whines on park or neutral.
Hey Bobby, hopefully it is a case of the trans filter being clogged up starving your trans of fluid when it's cold. Once the fluid warms up and thins out, the fluid flows better through the filter and the whining goes away. It could be a problem with your fluid pump or torque converter but let's hope the filter replacement fixes the issue for you.
Hey Bobby A, how did you make out with your symptoms? I have the same issues and wondering if a fluid and filter change helped. Thanks!
@@ericsbr the whining noise is only comes on a few seconds now at cold start at park or neutral gear and not as loud and goes away immediately. If engine is already warm after driving, restarting the engine does not make whining noise at all. I'm guessing the new transmission filter helped and by putting the gear into neutral more often at a stop or coming to a stop helps lubricate the gear in neutral.
Bobby A thanks for the reply!
I’m curious when you torqued all the bolts down?
Did you let the FIPG sit for a little bit with the bolts hand tight and then came back and torqued them all down. Or did you tighten everything up by hand and torqued it down when the FIPG was still wet all in one? No need to wait to torque?
@anthonymarasa6204 I torqued them down right away. There's no need to wait. I've heard of this before but don't think it's necessary. I've never read that technique in a Toyota factory service manual.
Awesome, thanks for fast response!
@@anthonymarasa6204 You're welcome!
A great time to retap the drain plug. Mine stripped and I retapped it in place, flushed out the debris, and it’s been great for years. Also, I have Used dexron vi fully synthetic for years with no issues. It’s a great transmission once you do the radiator bypass.
It's a great transmission regardless. I'm not looking for a debate because I've debated this topic plenty on Toyota forums whether or not it's prudent to bypass the stock cooler in the radiator. I added an external cooler but chose to run it
in-series with the stock cooler instead of bypassing. I did plenty of research and based my decision on that research and how I use my rig.
Thank you guys so much for the information you given us all. From Long Beach Ca. You might see a thumbs up on the freeway. From a 00 black 4Runner
You're very welcome Jerome. We're in San Jose but we do visit SoCal. Happy Wrenching!
How much oil i need..toyota 2000. 4 runner 2wd. 3.4. Sr5...and what transmission filter ..mechanics confuse me ...!! Gracias ( tks)
Pleze xd
.
@@pedromunoz3513 You will need around 6 quarts of ATF for this job. It's not an exact thing because it depends how long you spend doing the job. More drips out as time goes on. Buy 7 quarts and you'll be guaranteed to have enough. As for the filter, I'm not sure what the correct filter is for your 2wd model. Your best bet is to either look it up online from a Toyota parts seller or visit your local Toyota dealer and they can look it up for you.
And what. Automatic transmission filter...i need ???
@@pedromunoz3513 I don't know Pedro. You have to look it up on an online Toyota parts seller website or go to a dealership. I know quite a bit but I don't know everything and I'm not going to look up the filter you need for your vehicle. That's your job, not mine.
Hi Tim, I have a leak on the automatic transmission and will follow these steps to fix to replace the gasket. It is not a dripping leak but enough to make the lower part of the transfer case also wet. Have you seen leaks in other places other than the gasket? Any other parts that I may want to replace for leaks?
It could be leaking from the output shaft seal in between the transmission and transfer case. The ATF will drip into the void and then slowly drip out underneath.
Just finished this job using a fel-pro gasket, but not all of the holes in the gasket lined up. Had to push the bolts through the gasket in some places. Do you think this will be alright? Thanks
You'll probably be ok. Form in Place Gasket would have been a better choice though. Hopefully you don't develop any leaks.
Thanks for the reply. I’ll make sure to keep an eye on it and if it starts leaking, I’ll have to take it back off and put the FPG instead. Thanks
@@stevew092984 You're welcome.
Great Video, I appreciate your help. Can you tell me what manual the install info is from ?
@carloswilhelm203 The information is from the Toyota factory service manual. You can find them for sale used on Ebay usually. Just do a search for your year and model on Ebay and see what you find. You can also access the information online via the Toyota Tech Info website. You can buy a subscription as short as 2-days for $25. techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&goto=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2Fagent%2Fcustom-login-response%3Fstate%3DFNhshbi6ZchEZcyJYUqCsrAp_NY&original_request_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2F
Thank you brother
Is it just the 4x4 3rd gens that have the sway bar in the way of the transmission pan I have 99 4runner and there is more than enough clearance so I dont have to remove the sway bar. Also very descriptive video I will be tackling this job since whoever did my transmission drain and refill last decided to strip the pan and put thread sealer on the threads a temporary fix. But might as well do the filter while I'm down there!
It sounds like 2wd transmissions have the pan further back which makes it easier to access! Dang, sorry to hear about the previous mechanic. Get yourself a thread restorer or thread tapper to fix the mistake that was made or hopefully there are no stripped threads and all you have to worry about is cleaning up the extra gasket material someone put on there. We hope to hear back from you soon on this job to understand how it went!
- Sean
Great Vid!! Nobody makes such good vids. Gonna add that us guys in the RUST BELT to pre-treat/soak any through or exposed transmission pan bolts. I also added a spin on adapter in the return line. It uses the same 3614 style filters.
Thanks for helping us all Timmy. Want to share that some of us drive in corrosive environments.
For example, I found my dipstick tubes completely fused together.
Fortunately, I was able to disconnect dipstick-tube from the engine, drop the pan from the transmission, and wiggled and turned both tubes through, still connected together, down the small side opening, oil-pan and all.
Nothing but a torch and applied force would separate the 2 tubes after 23 years of being together.
Apparently, moisture funneled itself into the lower pan tube flange, and over time, rusted the tubes together.
I guess it didn't help that its O-ring was missing. Anyone else have this setback?
That didn't sound like fun, but you got it done, and that's what counts.
Tim, if the filter comes with a gasket for the pan do you still need to apply a sealant?
The gasket that comes with the filter is a replacement for the original FIPG ( Form in Place Gasket). Some have had good luck with those cork gaskets, and others not so much.and they eventually develop leak. FIPG is superior because it can flow into any imperfections or low spots in the metal much better than a paper or cork gasket can.
Serious question: If the transmission strainer (aka filter) never gets clogged, what's the purpose of replacing it?
Good question. Most do it for peace of mind. If someone bought a rig with unknown service records and the trans fluid was black, there's a good chance there's more deposits blocking fluid flow than if the transmission got regular fluid exchanges. That filter could easily be something you never replace, unless the trans fails and the filter is replaced as part of the service.
do you really have to take the sway bar off? for us in the rust belt its easier to have to move things a certain way to get it off then to remove more rusty bolts and potentially strip or snap them off.
No, you don't have to remove the sway bar but I do think it makes it easier getting it out of the way.
You used gasket sealant in a tube. Do you think the rubber gasket provided with the transmission filter is inferior to the tube gasket material?
People have had good luck with the rubber seals provided with the filters. I prefer the FIPG because it will better fill any imperfections in the metal surfaces preventing any leaks.
I heard for the 4bangers you cant remove the metal filter, its just a drain and fill? I dont know
auto trans
Never heard of that but I haven't serviced the trans on a 4 cylinder 3rd Gen with an auto so who knows.
Please tell us exactly what is this year and model car on your video . We could learn it . Is This procedure same as 2005 Toyota 4 runner limited V8 4.7 L engine .Thank you very much for your teaching step by step all of it .
Hey brother I have a question. I have a 1994 pickup I bought with 157k miles. I checked the fluid via dipstick and it’s brown. I doubt the previous owner ever maintained with ATF changes. You recommend I change it out with a new filter as well? Or do you suggest I leave it alone. I keep getting different answers everywhere. Requires dexron 2.
It's a hard call due to the mileage and the color of the fluid, but if it were me, I'd go for the pan drop and filter replacement. You'll end up getting out around 6 quarts of the 12 quart capacity. After this, I would do a pan drain and refill in another 3-5k miles, and that will bring your fluid into pretty good shape. I do a drain and refill every 10k miles to keep my ATF in good shape.
I wish I had that tool in highschool did mine about 7 years ago in school took me 2 hrs to get that seal to break loose. Was so worried about breaking something with a screwdriver and hammer.
SMITTY'SWORLD2015 That tool is pretty handy to have. I'd be worried too about doing damage using a screwdriver.
Hi Timmy, or anyone else who might know !!!
Excellent video ! I have a question though. Why does approximately 4.5 quarts come out of the pan plug ? When I did my 02 4Runner it was about the same. The Toyota factory service manual says 2.1 quarts for a drain and fill. Why the discrepancy?!? Thanks !
I've seen the same discrepancy and I don't know why that is. All I know is when my trans is properly filled, I'll get out around 4.5 quarts. I wouldn't worry about the manual. I'm certain if we ran our transmission 2 quarts lower, we would be having transmission issues.
@@TimmyTheToolman That makes sense to me ! Thank you so much !
@@Jason-pk9wu You're very welcome.
Thank you Timmy the toolman,for such amazing videos. I'm new owner of 94 2wd automatic 22re pickup. I noticed that there is leaking around the entire pan of my transmission. I wiped it away and it looks like grey sealant. The fluid isn't pretty color when I check it with dipstick. Should I change the filter? I'm not sure when it was done. I'm so ready to get her on road again. I haven't found anyone that has done it on them. But I trust you, watched a lot of your videos already before I even noticed that! Thank you for sharing your knowledge of these trustworthy vehicles!
If the fluid is pretty dirty, it's not a bad idea to replace the filter because it could be partially blocked up due to deposits left from the dirty fluid. When the fluid is renewed at regular intervals, the filters could last a lifetime.
The transmission sealed with sealant is common. Paper, cork or rubber gaskets are usually aftermarket. Toyota uses the Red 1281 FIPG to seal transmission pans.
Hello timmy.! Your great video inspired me to take on this repair myself! And I find myself in a concerning spot. I've 284k on my runner, drove roughly 20k out of that. Don't know if previous owner changed fluids. Upon draining the fluid I found about a teaspoon full of small metal shavings in the oil and filter. Is my transmission done.? Should I flush or just drain and fill.? Thanks in advance.!
You have a decent amount of miles on the rig and it's expected you would have some metal debris buildup in the oil and the filter. I wouldn't worry about it. With a transmission with an unknown service history, it's smarter to just do a drain and refill. Introducing the full capacity of the system with fresh ATF could break free sludge deposits (ATF has good detergent qualities) in the trans and then those sludge deposits could become lodged in a fluid passageway in the valve body and cause problems. Do one drain and refill, wait another 5k miles or so and possibly time it with your engine oil change and do another drain and refill. After another 5k miles, do another one. After the 3rd drain and refill, your fluid will be in really good shape. After that, you could do like I do and do a drain and refill every 10k miles or every other engine oil change. I believe it's better to introduce new fluid more frequently than wait, say 30k miles, to do a full flush. I did a Blackstone Labs analysis of my fluid at one of my 10k interval drain and refills and the report said my fluid was in great shape. Good luck with your rig and Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Thnak you so much.! I went ahead and did a drain and fill with the filter change. The transmission stopped kicking and its soo smooth.! I was worried it was going to get worse. Will definitely stay on top of my fluid changes.! Thanks for the advice and keep the Amazing videos Rolling.!!
@@CaptainSponge12 Glad it worked out well for you buddy. Sean and I are hear to help so if you have more questions, you know where to find us. Happy Wrenching!
Is the part number for the filter for a 4wd model? Will it also fit an 02?
It was for a 4wd model. Just to be sure, you should go on a Toyota parts seller website and confirm the filter for your 2002 is the same one. That part number was for a 2000. The 2000 and the 2002 are different model transmissions but they may use the same filter.
Timmy The Toolman yup swim part number just checked! Says it fits up to 2015 :0
Best in the game, Timmy! 🤘🏽
Thanks Bro!
Hey Timmy! I dropped my pan and replaced my filter on my 4Runner following the steps here. The only difference was I used the rubber gasket that came with the kit at first, that didn’t seal. So I did it again with the gasket maker. That also seems to be slowly leaking by as well! I may have put a bit too thick of a bead around the pan, is that even possible?? I cleaned both surfaces really well and tightened down the bolts (just under the torque spec, i think it was around 45-50in.lb, scared to break the bolts also) thanks!
Putting too much FIPG isn't going to cause a leak. It will just smoosh out the sides as you tighten the bolts to spec. Putting too little however could cause a leak. There is a chance that when you brought the pan into position to the bottom of the transmission you smeared some of the FIPG off at one location and left an insufficient amount to create a proper seal. That's the only thing I can think of. The reason FIPG is superior to a rubber, cork, or paper gasket is it has the ability to flow into imperfections into the surface of the pan or the surface of the trans.
Helpful, my rav4 had a coarse mesh screen filter that collected only metal bits. Of course I failed and replaced it with paper instead of investing in a better gasket and calling it done.
You'll probably be ok with that gasket. I prefer the FIPG because it will handle imperfections in the sealing surfaces better than a paper gasket but lots of guys use the paper or cork gaskets for reassembly because they don't want to deal with scraping off gasket sealer if they have to drop the pan again. Glad you found our video helpful.
@@TimmyTheToolman I meant the filter was plastic/cellulose when it didn't call for one
@@TheMissingtime Oh, I gotcha. Yeah, you'll probably want to go back in and replace that filter after around 30-50k miles. I added a Magnetic Filter in my transmission cooler return line near the radiator for extra filtration. These filters are rated to last for 30k miles but I just go ahead and replace it every 10k miles when I do a drain and refill of the pan. By adding the extra filtration of the fluid, that OEM fine mesh metal filter will never get clogged up and you'll never need to drop the pan again unless it's for another reason like replacing shift solenoids. With the magnetic filter in the return line near the bottom of the radiator, it's easy to get to and replace compared to dropping the trans pan which is a pain in the butt. There's a link to the filter I use in the video description.
i have 262000 miles on mine and i do not know the transmission service history should i change out the fluid that i drained or should i reuse that fluid (my fluid is about as dark as the one in this vid if that helps)
Your fluid must be in decent shape if it's similar in color to the fluid drained in the video. This video.was shot using my 2000 4runner and I regular drain and refills on it.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you timmy !
@@corbs3535 You're welcome.
Hey Timmy do you think you could submerge that filter in lacquer thinner to clean it? Lacquer thinner will just about clean anything metal without any seals it can attack. That gunk on the screen will dissolve in that lacquer thinner.
That might work. I know others have just shot a bunch of brake cleaner in there, shook it up, dumped it out and repeated until they felt it was probably clean enough. What I believe though is this filter getting clogged is only an issue with people who have abused their transmission and haven't regularly renewed the fluid. If you renew the fluid at a regular interval, you wouldn't ever have the need to drop the pan and either clean or replace this filter. I really wanted to see how much metal debris had accumulated on the bottom of my pan to give me an idea of the health of my transmission so that's what inspired me to drop the pan. For people who know the history of services of the transmission, if the fluid was renewed regularly, there is no need to do this job.
Great Video really informative, I need to take off the transmission sump pan and replace a faulty shift solenoid, my vehicle is a 1997 Toyota Hilux Surf / forerunner 3rd Gen 3.0L diesel engine number KZN-185 the reason for replacing the solenoid is due to a shift issue, but I can't find any info on which shift solenoid controls the forward gears i.e. 1 - 4 the vehicle wont go up through the gears it stays in 1st, I have no issues with any other gear positions i.e. its ok in reverse no issue with Low or 2, so I believe the shift solenoid for the 4 forward gears is the issue, my question is do you know which solenoid in the transmission controls the forward gear change, your help would be much appreciated.
I do not know which shift solenoid is which. Do you have a Toyota dealership that might be able to use their parts schematic to help you out?
@@TimmyTheToolman Hi thanks for the reply, would you believe that even the parts dept do not know which solenoid controls the forward gear shift selection, even asked a technician and he wasn't sure, I have purchased all 3 and will get each current solenoid tested and replace the faulty one the Toyota dealer has agreed to take the ones that aren't required back as long as still in the packaging.
@@tonybroad5577 Ok, good luck with the job.
Master, I want to change the transmission oil on a 4runner 97 4x4 a340F, but I have a question: can I use the 00289-atfws oil?
@fernandopozuelos22 You need to use an ATF that is compatible with the original spec, which was Dexron 3. I don't think the WS fluid is compatible. The WS is for newer transmissions. I use Valvoline Maxlife.
@@TimmyTheToolmanOk master thanks, there is a liqui moly atf top tec 1200 oil, it is more expensive but it says it is compatible with a340f 4runner 97
Any light on replacement seal on a 2000 tacoma 2.7 selector shaft seal?
Are you talking about a manual transmission shifter seat?
Curious. When installing a used/reman transmission where you don't know how much fluid is in the transmission how do you go about adding transmission to the correct amount? Add fluid till it appears on the dipstick and then adjust accordingly?
I would fill it at least to the upper cold level mark when it's off, start the engine briefly and then shut it down. If the torque converter was dry, it will suck up a bunch of fluid so I would start it and stop it pretty quickly, maybe let it run a few seconds. I'd then recheck the level and see how much it dropped. If it did drop, I'd refill it to the upper cold level mark and do another quick start and stop and then check again if the level dropped. Once the level is stable, I'd start it, and add fluid until you have the level at the upper cold level. After you have it filled to the upper cold level with the engine running, I'd take it for a drive and get it up to operating temp, somewhere between 155-175 degrees. I'd then make sure the level is between the hot level marks. I usually have it filled to the upper hot mark when the trans is at operating temp.
@@TimmyTheToolman sounds like a great plan! thanks and keep up the great work! because of your videos primarily I'll hold on to my 3rd gen for a lot longer I hope!
@@tpatrickwilson65 That's great our channel is inspiring you to hold onto your 3rd Gen. They are great rigs.
I'm getting ready to do a flush and a filter change. Would it be best to perform the flush before changing the transmission filter? So your not passing old fluid through the new filter?
Yes, I would flush first. You will end up wasting a pan full of fluid but it would be the smartest move to avoid pushing dirty fluid through a new filter.
3M green scrub pad may work on the transmission side to clean off the gasket gunk.
Yeah, that would probably work well.
Timmy, dumb question but is there a difference between red and black fipg? I have a bunch of black left over from the valve cover job, thanks
Not a dumb question. Yes, there is a difference. The 103 Black is meant for engine oil applications. The 1281 Red is meant for transmissions, transfer cases and differentials.
@@TimmyTheToolman you da man, thanks!
@@jrb222 No problem Jorge.
I read somewhere that the black could be used on transmissions. Therfore used. Uggh! Before i add the fluid should i remove and redo with red? @TimmyTheToolman
Thank you for all you do, I'm getting ready to do valve covers on grandson's 2000 4runner. I have 2004 4runner, with 190,000 one owner i had a flush at 80,000, the transmission is flawless, the fluid color is not true red, was going to do a home flush. I recently read Toyota tech guy on youtube stating you might do more harm then good, considering the miles i have gone since the first one. What's your take on this, thanks again.
If you're concerned, just do a drain and refill of the pan which will exchange around 4-4.5 quarts of the 12 quart system. Follow that up with another drain and refill 5k miles later or timed with your next engine oil/filter change. Then follow up that up with a 3rd pan drain and refill, after another 5k miles and the trans fluid should be in pretty good shape. This will slowly renew the fluid rather than doing it all at once with the flush. This would be the safest way to renew the fluid.
Hey Tim, question for ya.
I recently watched/completed your valve cover and timing belt jobs and now am more confident to tackle other jobs. I've had my gen 3 since 03 and have never touched the transmission fluid. Everything seems to shift and work properly, but when I replaced and drained my radiator the transmission fluid had a foul/burnt smell. I heard somewhere that if I have never touched the transmission, that you could potentially damage the transmission by replacing the fluid.....is this true? It seems like a very easy job, and I'm kicking myself for not taking care of it before. The transmission has 263K on it. Thank you!
There's some truth to not changing fluid on a trans that's been abused. One theory is the old fluid is holding suspended clutch material which the transmission if relying upon to shift properly. If you flush all that old fluid out, the trans now slips. The other and more believable theory is the abused trans has sludge deposits built up in it. New ATF has great detergent qualities to it. When you introduce a whole bunch of new fluid into an abused trans, that new fluid starts working on the sludge deposits and breaks some of it free. Some of that debris could get lodged in a fluid passageway and starve part of the trans of fluid.
If I were you, I'd just do a drain and refill of the pan which will exchange about 1/3 of the capacity or around 4-4.5 quarts. Drive the rig for around 3000 miles and then perform another drain and refill. Then follow that up with a 3rd drain and refill after another 3000 miles. This way you do it slowly and hopefully clean out the sludge deposits at a safer and slower rate. After that 3rd drain and refill, your fluid will be in pretty good shape.
Follow that up with a drain and refill every 10,000 miles or every other oil change. This is what I do for all my rigs. I never perform a full flush because drain and refills are super easy to do and very effective at keeping your fluid in great shape. It's a dilution process by adding new fluid that will mix with old fluid but I've sent a sample of my fluid into Blackstone Labs and got a great report back which proved to me that regular drain and refills will keep your fluid in great shape. That's my best advice for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for the advice, slow and steady it will be.
@@Abes523 You're welcome. I hope it works out well for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman hi Tim, thanks for all the vids. Just bought a '97 with 259,000. Tranny fluid looks rough. I will do the tranny fluid changes every 3000 miles as you stated, however, should I replace the filter on the first change? Thank you again
@@jrb222 It might not be a bad idea Jorge since the fluid looks bad. Your filter could be partially clogged.
So I've had conflicting answers to the questions of that I have never changed the trans fluid on my 2000 Tacoma. 215000 miles. Many say don't mess with it since it's never been done because is I do change the fluid it will start slipping. Others say go ahead and do it. I'm very torn as to what to do. What is your opinion? I will anxiously be awaiting your reply. Thank you for your time!
Hey Mike, due to the fact your transmission fluid has never been changed, the damage is already done and the trans has experienced additional wear because of it. The reason why people say don't change it is because the dirty black ATF is probably holding suspended clutch material and it's helping your transmission not slip. You definitely don't want to do a full flush. At the most, do a drain and refill of the pan and drain the fluid into a clean container. If after the drain and refill you are having shifting and/or slipping problems, drain the pan and add the old fluid back in. Draining the pan will replace around 1/3 of the system capacity. If everything goes ok with this drain and refill, do another one in10k miles and every 10k after that. Doing fairly regular drain and refills will keep your trans fluid in great shape and a full flush is not necessary.
I hope this helps.
Timmy The Toolman thank you so much. So don't even worry about changing the filter either?
Well, I'd see how the drain and refill goes. Maybe a little ways down the road you could drop the pan. Many think the trans filter is a lifetime part because it's a strainer and not a filter with media that can get clogged easily. I did it because dropping the pan would give me an idea how healthy my trans was based off how much accumulation of metal debris was on the magnets and how much non-metal debris was on the bottom of the pan.
Hello Tim! I have a 97' Toyota 4Runner 2WD that is throwing the P0773 code. My mechanic only changed the Shift E solenoid and it is still throwing the code. They went ahead and changed the filter, cleaned the connectors, replaced the Shift E solenoid, replaced the ECM and is still throwing the code.
Would it be wise to change out all of the solenoids/filter with OEM parts or equivalent?
Shift solenoids are expensive. There's a way you can test them by checking the ohms resistance. You might want to drop the pan again and test the shift solenoids with a micrometer to see if any of the solenoids are bad.
@@TimmyTheToolman Will do! Thank you again Tim!
Did you end up figuring out what it was brotha!? I have that code as well and I'm going to change fluids and filters on this up coming weekend cause I don't know the history of the vehicle! Any advise helps and TYIA
Excellent video, sir. One question: Why would you want to use the sealant out of a tube when you could use a preformed gasket? Seems like putting on a gasket would make the installation job easier and quicker and also make the next dismantling job so much easier.
explorepikespeak that’s how it came from the factory & that’s how the factory service manual suggests doing it. We would argue a good bead of FIPG could seal better & longer than a preformed gasket. There hopefully won’t be a next time for a very long time with this job. The trans pan really doesn’t need to be dropped often.
and if your pan magnets look like furbies? :) What do you think about changing the fluid / filter on a junkyard pulled transmission?
@joeblow22219 If you're saying there's a heavy accumulation of metal on the magnets, we'll, the damage is already done. That trans is probably on borrowed time, but maybe it isn't, and it will last a long time. If you're going to put that trans in your rig, I would definitely replace the filter and renew the fluid. On a filter change, you'll exchange around 6 quarts of the 12 quart capacity.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the response! I have watched so many of your videos, they have been incredibly helpful. the shavings are in the current transmission and yeah its probably on borrowed time. I was wondering about the replacement transmission. If i find a lower milage used one to put in that has been tested (hopefully no metal shavings) should i change the filter and fluid? I dont have the lift to do this so I am going to have to bring it to a shop.
BTW I did follow this video and change the filter and fluid which seemed to help the issue but not fix it. The torque converter or pump is making a winding / whining sound in P/R/D. I was pretty sure it was going to be a futile effort but couldnt help myself to see what it looked like and what happens. for science.
@@joeblow22219 OK, I understand the situation now. I think I would drop the pan and renew the fluid on the used transmission so you can inspect the level of metal debris on the magnets to get an idea of the health of the used transmission you're installing. And, getting the fluid in good shape is smart as well.
Question,is the same filter for a 99 4runner limited 4x4...
There are different filters for the 3rd Gen years and I'm not sure if your 99 takes the same one. Best to visit a dealership or use an online Toyota parts supplier website to look it up.
Nicely done, thank you for sharing this!
Thanks, and you're very welcome.
Thank you sir, very helpful. Just followed your steps on an '01 4wd 4runner today and all went great until I went to bolt the pan back on. One of the bolts kept spinning after I got it tightened as far as I could. The bolt head didn't pop off (I didn't over-torque it) so my guess is that the threads were stripped from a service performed while the previous owner had it. Think it's ok to just leave it and check from time to time for leaks? Not sure what else to do, any advice?
Can you get that bolt out that is spinning? If so, you can try retapping the threads. If that doesn’t work, you could drill it out, tap it and install a helicoil.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'm going to give that a shot tomorrow (just ordered the replacement bolt from Toyota). Thanks!
@@mikes.6635 You're welcome. Hope it works out.
I was able to get the bolt out with no issue at all. Sadly though, the new bolt from Toyota spun the same. I used a rubber gasket so I'm going to keep a close eye for any leaks and if one appears, I'll go the helicoil route.
@@mikes.6635 Thanks for the update Mike. Hopefully there will be no leaks.
Do you know what the intervals are like on a 5th gen? I keep seeing conflicting stuff online. Some say 60k, others say just drain and fill every 30k. The fsm has you dropping the pan like here though for a flush.
You're right that there's conflicting information, lots of it. With these sealed transmissions, Toyota and others will say the fluid is lifetime which is utter bullshit. No fluid lasts forever. The system holds around 12 quarts. On a drain and refill, you'll get out around 4 quarts, 1/3 of the capacity. If you did a drain and refill every 30k, it would take 90k miles to introduce 12 quarts into the system. In my opinion, that's insufficient for some people and I'll explain why. As the temperature of the fluid goes up, the life of the fluid goes down. If your fluid never got above 170 degrees, it could last for 100,000 miles. You could only do that if you never drive in the mountains or tow. If you do either, you will experience trans fluid temps much higher than 170 degrees. The old standard use to be to renew your trans fluid every 30,000 miles. Now it's something like every 60,000, every 100,000 or never. Is ATF that more advanced than it was back in the day? I don't know. Draining and refilling the pan is simple and relatively affordable. For my 3rd Gen 4runners, I do a drain and refill every 10,000 miles so I'm introducing 12 quarts into the system every 30,000 miles. Many would say that's overkill, and that's ok. It's my rigs and I'll service them as I see fit.
I don't think a dropping of the pan and replacement of the filter is necessary unless you know or suspect the trans was abused and the fluid was allowed to get very dirty.
We did a service for a sealed transmission on a FJ Cruiser that would help you out. ua-cam.com/video/gx5dU3UVcRs/v-deo.html Service your trans based off how you drive it. If you drive in the mountains a lot or tow, service it more often. Good luck!
I’m having trouble finding a filter for my 1999 2.7l 2wd. Can’t find a good part other than autozone duralast.
Have you tried your local Toyota dealer?
At what milage is it recommended to change the transmission fluid on a 3rd gen tacoma ? Do you need to change the filter each time ?
Please refer to your vehicles owner manual for the maintenance schedule of your vehicle. In general, every 30-60k miles. It’s also good to take a look at your transmission dip stick to see what condition the fluid is. If it’s red, that’s good, if it’s black, that’s bad. If you don’t know the history of the fluid changes on your vehicle, take caution and don’t flush the fluid. Do a series of drain and refills. It is not necessarily required to replace the trans filter, but if your fluid is dark, brown and burnt, it may be a good idea to replace it then, or possibly every 100k miles depending on your driving habits.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you . It doesnt have a dip stick . It has 50k and i bought it new , iv changed all other fluids except the transmission fluid . Iv seen a couple videos on transmission fluid changed for these tacomas but i havent seen one where they change out the filter so i wasnt sure if it had one or not or why they dont replace it
@@agustinherrera5600 Your filter will also be a fine metal mesh screen and would only need to be replaced if you knew the transmission was seriously neglected for a ton of miles and there's a chance deposits in the fluid have built up enough to cause a fluid construction in the filter. Renewing the fluid is what you should do. Faye Hadley has a good video on how to service sealed transmissions.
@@TimmyTheToolman ok thanx i think mine should be fine i dont drive it to bad only about 20 miles per day and it has 50k now ill wait a bit but when i change it ill only change the fluid
@@agustinherrera5600 You're welcome Augustin. Enjoy your rig.