Transmission Fluid Flush
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- Опубліковано 22 жов 2024
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**Note: At the very beginning of the video, it says Coolant Temps and Replacing Fan Clutch at the bottom of the screen, but that was a mistake. It's solely a video on doing a Transmission Fluid Flush.
In this video, we show you how to do a full fluid flush of the automatic transmission on your 3rd Gen 4runner without any special machines. But, this process would work for any vehicle with an automatic transmission which has the trans cooler in the radiator.
**When you're done with the flush and you want to get the transmission up to operating temperature so you can check your fluid level, instead of taking it for a drive you can use this trick I learned. You can set the parking brake, put the transmission in drive, have your left foot on the service brake and your right foot on the accelerator pedal. Raise the rpms of the engine to around 1000-1500 and hold it there while you're watching your phone app that monitoring your trans fluid temp. When it gets to around 170 degrees, put the trans back in park and immediately check the fluid level. You should see it at the upper hot mark on the dipstick. If it's low, add some more and repeat this process until you get it to the upper hot mark.
*PARTS*
*Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic ATF (Since making this video, I now use full synthetic ATF)
You need approximately 12 quarts to do this job.
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*Auto Transmission Drain Plug Crush Washer #35178-30010
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*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*3/8" Transmission Cooler Hose for the Flush Procedure - You can pick this up a short section of this an any auto parts store.
*Here's a couple links to the 18 quart bucket and 1 gallon bucket I bought off Amazon to do this job. The 18 quart bucket with the graduated quart marks really makes it easy to keep track of how much you've drained out and I highly recommend it. The gallon container makes it possible to buy 1 gallon containers of ATF and still be able to accurately measure what you're adding in each time.:
*18 Quart Container
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*4 Quart Container
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*If you're interested in buying an OBDII reader that works with Android devices, here's what I got:
amzn.to/2S2ygi5
*And, if you go the Bluetooth reader route, buy this as well. It allows you to turn off the power to your reader so you don't have to pull it out every time. The reader constantly draws a small amount of power and could drain your battery if your truck sits for a long time.
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*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set
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*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
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*Oil Drain Pan
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*Transmission Funnel
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*Right Angle Needle Nose Pliers
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*Instead of using the spark plug wire puller to break free the return line hose connection, a hose removal tool pick is a better choice.
*Hose Remover Set
amzn.to/34aKF5z
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
This is probably the most comprehensive flush procedure I've seen anywhere. Thanks for sharing this man!
No problem. Glad our video helped you out.
Dunno if anyone gives a damn but if you're bored like me during the covid times you can watch pretty much all of the new movies on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my brother these days :)
@Brodie Taylor Yea, been using InstaFlixxer for since december myself :)
@@TimmyTheToolman one more question please? My 2004 ford ranger don’t have a drain plug that I see, do I have to drain the pan or can I start draining from the radiator?? Sorry.
@@HowardSprague116 I'm not familiar with Fords but I would think there'd have to be a drain plug. You could technically start the flush via the transmission cooler return line without first draining the pan. Is your transmission sealed, meaning no dipstick?
As an avid Toyota owner, currently own eight, I perform all of the maintenance. Your videos are most informative and I appreciate the detailed description of the work required. Some Toyota trivia for you. A windshield washer fluid container,with the bottom removed, can be used as a funnel for oil filling. The threads of the container and the oil fill opening match on the Sequoia 4.7 liter match.
It's good to hear you like the videos we make. Thanks for sharing your oil funnel idea. I like it! Is it any particular brand of windshield washer fluid?
Not that I am aware of, just the normal bottle that comes from Pep Boys or Wall Mart.
@@carolcarola9719 Ok, Thanks.
I did this job today, all went well. I worked on my own so had the driver window down and stood/crouched at the side, watching the volume pumped out. Reached back through the window and stopped the engine conservatively each time. The video is like so many on your channel Timmy and Sean - inspires confidence to give things a go. And provides a great resource to follow and get the job done right. Thank you.
Hey Andrew, that's good to hear you got it done even though you didn't have a helper. Good Job! We never get tired of hearing people say our videos inspire confidence to tackle a job on their own and avoid the expensive labor rates shops charge. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Best of all I've seen and I'm an OLD garage owner / operator who still does his own maintenance while I can. - I'm great-full to you.
Thanks for the compliment Jim. We appreciate it, especially from someone like you who owned and operated his own garage.
I have been doing my transmission flush the same way as you for many years now and I've never had a problem. I like to watch videos like yours because you never know when you can learn something new. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks Jason and you're welcome. We made this video for people who want to completely renew their fluid, but for both my 3rd Gen 4runners, I actually just do regular drain and refills to keep my fluid in good shape. I do a drain and refill every 10k miles because it's really simple to perform. I like the fact that I'm introducing fresh fluid on a more regular basis even though this is a dilution process and not a flush. Recently, I sent some of my ATF in to Blackstone Labs for an analysis and my fluid was in really good shape just doing the more regular drain and refills.
You know this transmission flush method makes more sense than any of the transmission flush videos I've watched. It's more like a blood transfusion and I see no problem with just changing out the fluid this way!
We don't see a problem with this method either. Thanks for agreeing with us.
Good info. You did a great service.
I did a fluid replacement/flush using a similar procedure about 4 years ago on my Toyota Sienna at 88,000 miles. Even though Toyota says this is a lifetime fluid, the fluid color was kind of dark purple with light brown streaks. I used 12 quarts of Valvoline Maxlife synthetic ATF ($17.98/4 quarts at Walmart) and after the change the fluid color was clean, clear light red so clearly this procedure does a great job at getting almost all of the old fluid out.
Now about 55,000 miles later the fluid color hasn't changed at all. It's still clean, clear light red. Clearly I've extended the life of my transmission by doing the fluid change. I highly recommend this procedure and Valvoline Maxlife.
Hey John, Glad you like the video. There's no way any ATF is lifetime. How they can claim this is beyond comprehension. You did the right thing by changing it.
So far this is the most video that shows the proper way of flushing Automatic trany.Thank you for your beautiful video.
Thanks for the compliment Leila. We appreciate it. You're very welcome!
Your 3rd gen videos are all absolutely top notch. I read a write-up on this procedure and it seemed so much more difficult than this. The giant plastic tub with quarts marked is also an outstanding idea...I found one at walmart for like 7 bucks and am going to flush my 97 this week(end).
good cheap find at your local Wally-mart! Write ups tend to leave out important info and although they have helped us a lot, watching a video with step by step instructions and narrative to add context will always be better.
I used this video as a guideline to flush the transmission on my 2000 tundra 4.7 with the A304. The transmission cooler is right on the front of the radiator and I pulled off the top line and slipped on a 3/8” ID clear hose to pump the fluid into a quart marked 2 gallon plastic pail that I got from the paint section of the local home improvement store.
Worked like a charm, and my truck is shifting much smoother. Took all 12 quarts.
Good job!
Thanks "Timmy". just finished the flush. you saved me a fortune. It cost $500 to do it here in Canada and all i paid was $90 for the fluid. "TIMMMMHAAA" LOL
I used your method on my 1998 4Runner, and it worked great. I was able to do it solo; just counted to ten each time, and that pumped out about a quart. My filter came with a rubber gasket, so I used that and will be happy to save myself at least an hour next time with not having to remove gasket material! Thanks for this very helpful video!
That's great to hear it worked out for you Jerry. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
I flush my 2000 4Runner exactly the same! Awesome detail in your videos Tim that most people don't include, thanks a bunch! A Toyota mechanic taught me that trick- he said the expensive flushing machines do the same job, and I know it's getting done!! Too many shops rip people off.
I learned this from a forum. Pretty simple and it will work for any vehicle. There were good write-ups on it but not a well-done video of the process so Sean and I decided to make one. Glad you're liking the videos.
Just did my 2004 Highlander. It had an external cooler (call it the tow prep package which many Toyotas come with) as well so tapped right between the external cooler and the transmission. Drained the existing fluid by removing the drain plug which yielded 1 gallon. Replaced with one gallon of new fluid. Disconnected the hose coming out of external cooler and put a clear vinyl 3/8th ID hose on the external cooler nipple. Started car and waited for one quart to be pumped out. Put one quart new fluid in via dipstick. Repeated several time until about 8 quarts had been put in. During some of these I moved the gear selection through all gears. Re secured the disconnected hose and checked fluid level. Such an easy process especially since the hose on the external cooler is easily accessible. It is on the front left part of the vehicle and is easy to tell supply versus discharge. So total new fluid used was 3 gallons/12 qts. Thanks a bunch for this video Timmy - made the job much easier. Took less than an hour
It really is an easy way to renew the transmission fluid in your vehicle. Glad our video helped you get it done.
Did my flush the same way last night, following these instructions. Worked great. I used a clear 3/8" hose from HomeDepot if that helps anyone. It was cheap and gave a great view of the fluid color during the flush cycles. Used the Valvoline Max ATF as mentioned in the description
Glad it worked out well for you. Using clear tubing was smart.
Super helpful video, stuck my 4R in a creek and had to leave it overnight, small crack in the trans cooler let it tons of nasty water. I had a few extra steps to fix it but all is well now.
Glad our video helped you out Joseph.
Thanks for putting together these detailed and easy to follow videos. I performed the transmission flush today, and it went just as your video described. Pretty darn straightforward, saving me some cash. Thanks again.
Glad you found the video helpful. Keep on Wrenching!
I had 65,000kms (40,300mi) on my transmission fluid, it was cooked for sure. The center console was getting really hot on long drives. I followed this procedure and MAN the results were great. Thanks a ton. My Runner fights another day. 👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing this with us and you're very welcome. Happy Wrenching!
Cooking fluid with just 40k? Are you sure there isn't something else going on? New fluid is rated to last 50k+ easily.
Wow! I love how detailed this video is, this guy seems like a real pro and I learned a few things. Thank you for making this I’m definitely checking out your other videos!
Hey Myles, glad you like our video. Sean and I are just DIYers like you and we're always learning as well. But, that's a nice compliment that you think we're pros. You're welcome and definitely check out more of our videos. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you for everything you do to help professional and lament mechanics. You have saved me tons over the years. It is very hard to find an honest mechanic these days! keep up the good work!
You're very welcome Fernando. It's awesome to hear you've saved lots of money using our videos. Yes, finding honest shops and mechanics is getting harder. It's way better to do your own work so you know it was done right and you save yourself the expensive labor rates shops charge. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
This is EXACTLY the way I have been doing my Toyotas for years! Great video series!
I learned this technique from a Toyota forum and decided to share it with others because it's a really good way to do a DIY transmission flush. Glad you're liking the videos.
Probably the the best video on this I have seen. The technique and information was spot on and now I'm going to go do all of my vehicles.
We're glad you like our tutorial Anthony. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Doing this today, thanks Tim as always for all the great write-ups and details.
You're welcome Tony. Good luck with the job.
Thanks for this. I used your A750F guide before, and now I needed this one as I have a different vehicle. The dipstick tube makes things so much easier. They call it progress!
Thanks for the generous “super thanks” mate! We really appreciate the support!!!
- Sean
Thanks for the tip. Yeah, a dipstick makes it much easier.
@@TimmyTheToolman You are welcome thanks for sharing your time and knowledge so freely. I forgot to ask. The vehicle is not OBD2 (imported vehicle), is the "rule of thumb" still drive for 20 mins to get to operating temperature to check the level? Somewhere along the line, my work mate isn't sure if we lost or gained a litre of fluid.🙄 😅
@@Me-zo8yc Yeah, a 20 minute drive with several hard accelerations on the highway to get the transmission to kick down will bring the fluid to operating temperature. Get the vehicle home or wherever you choose that has level ground and immediately check the level on the dipstick. As soon as you stop driving, the fluid temp will start cooling.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks very much! I mashed the pedal into the carpet on a long uphill country road so that it revved out in each gear, then pulled straight into a carpark and it was just under the lower HOT mark, so I added 500ml (About half a quart).
Just did this to mine yesterday, thanks for the info you're video was a big help.
Hey Kevin, we're glad our video helped you out.
Thanks again,my tourqe covertor wasnt locking up until 65mph, i flushed the fluid today as per your video and its all good now locking up at 50/55, my return line was on the oppisite side of the rad, its a rhd, thanks for explaining it so well..
good to know about the return line, thanks for sharing. stoked you fixed your issue with our video!@
Nice Video Tim! Much appreciate all these videos you are making!
My pleasure, glad you're getting some use out of them.
I have changed my Trans fluid about a dozen times and am on the same drain plug washer. I finally changed it out today for the hell of it.
I've reused drain plug washers in the past but it is better to replace them every time. We're not talking a whole lot of money for one of these so I just buy a few when I visit the local dealership so I don't have to make a trip there every time I want to do a drain and refill of the trans pan.
+Timmy The Toolman the Trans washer is like 5 dollars, the motor oil plug is like a dollar. I ordered like 20 motor oil for 5 dollars but the Trans washer needs to be cheaper. will need to find a brass, copper or aluminum washer of same size that is cheaper
That is expensive. I'll have to double check the price the next time I buy some. I don't remember paying that much but maybe I did.
Excellent job!!! you are right on the money thank you for sharing!!!!!
We're glad you like the video. You're welcome and Happy Wrenching!
These Jim Mora videos are always awesome.
Never knew I looked like Coach Mora or maybe I sound like him or maybe it's both. Anyways, glad you like our videos.
Full wetness on the dipstick, got it
Francisco Burgos always a good advice ;-)
Don’t ever forget it
Unless one has access to a machine, this is the right DIY method. Thanks for this video.
Thanks for the comment Roy and you're very welcome.
this is awesome. thanks for putting it together.
No problem. Thanks for watching.
again an exceptional video.. I had to watch it again as i did the transmission cooler and couldn't remember which was the sending and return line. You covered it at 2:40.. thanks again!
Thanks and you're very welcome. Makes me happy people are getting good use out of our videos.
excelente tutorial. muchas gracias !
De nada.
Superb video. I think this is the most detailed video so far on You tube. You are an awesome instructor in your detail and reasoning. Thank you Timmy.
Thank you for the nice compliment. We appreciate it very much. You're very welcome. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for the video!
Just wonder why didn't you drop the pan and changed the filter and cleaned the magnets? How important is that?
Thanks
Well, the transmission filter under the pan is just a metal mesh filter to capture the bigger particles of metal. If you have enough captured metal in there to start inhibiting the flow of fluid, your transmission is probably toast. But, with that said, I plan on dropping my pan sometime soon just out of curiosity because a look at what's accumulated on the magnets and in the filter is a clue to the health of your transmission. Plus, it will be another video to share.
Dropping the pan is not hard but it's definitely a lot more work than just doing a drain and refill. You have to get the sway bar out of the way first. You have to remove the upper part of the dipstick tube, get all the bolts out and break the seal of the pan with a special tool. Then you have to clean up the magnets and you can actually clean and reuse the filter if you want. Finally, you have to put gasket sealer on the pan and bolt it back on. So, definitely not a quick process.
I would say it's not that necessary. The old American Motors cars that have a paper filter that can get clogged over time would require a drop off the transmission pan to replace it. When I added my external trans cooler, I added an inline Magnefine filter to do "True" filtering of the transmission fluid.
Thank you for your reply. I have Highlander 2011 4WD. The filer there has some felt not just a metal mesh. I am not sure about your car. Also from what I have seen from other videos, there are 4 bolts on the pan that are really hard to reach. That is why I was just thinking about flushing it.
Do you know how to check the transmission fluid temperature before looking at the dipstick in Highlander 2011 and camry 2007? Every time after driving for a while, I look at the dipstick and it gives me different oil level that is why I was not sure how to check it,
Thanks
If the filter has felt, it might be a good decision to change it because it would be more prone to clog. Have you asked the dealer what they recommend as an interval to change that transmission filter?
I monitor my trans temp by using a Bluetooth OBDII reader and the Torque Pro app on my Android phone. If you don't have an Android phone, they do have apps for i-phones too.
Here's the OBDII reader I bought:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also bought this on/off OBDII extension which is nice since the reader does draw power even when the vehicle is off. If you leave the reader in the port and let the vehicle sit for a long time, it could drain the battery.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UR5XBMW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Transmission fluid continues to expand as it gets hotter. Normal operating temperature for my trans is 155-175. Before I knew how to monitor my trans temp, I'd just do a 5 mile drive down the freeway, come back and check to the see the level is at the top of the hot range. If you climbed a steep mountain road and you're trans temp was around 200+ degrees, and you checked it at this temp, the level on the dipstick would be quite a bit over the top hot mark.
After I do a drain and refill on my rig, I drive it like I normally do but make sure my trans temp has climbed into the normal operating range. If it's a little low, I'll add until I'm at the top of the hot mark. They say not to overfill but I don't want to be underfilled either. I think if you're slightly overfilled or underfilled, it's not a big deal. You just don't want to be way overfilled or way underfilled.
You probably would never be checking you're trans fluid level at the top of a mountain climb because that doesn't make sense. Most people would be either checking it at home after driving it normally or at a gas station when they're filling their tank. So, the manufacturers intent is the trans fluid is checked at a "Normal" operating temp in regards the hot level on the dipstick. Most people aren't going to monitor their trans temp, so going for a drive and heating up the trans is all they can do. Knowing the actual temperature is very helpful though, so I would suggest anyone to buy an OBDII reader and get a phone app. You could also buy a Scan Gauge tool, but those are a much more expensive option to monitor different things on your vehicle.
Thank you so much for this well extensive explanation. This is what I was looking for. I have 3 more questions for you:
1- Do you know if this OBDII reader will work for Highlander 2011 or Camry 2007?
2- When you remove the return line from the nozzle in the radiator and connect another hose to this line where you drain from it. What have you done with the original returning hose as it will withdraw air now to the transmission? I may missed it.
3-How accurate is the app or the OBDII? How do you know this give the right temperature? Just curious..
Thanks again
1)The reader should work with any vehicle with an OBDII port. You just have to buy an app like Torque Pro and set up on the application what you want to monitor.
2)You just let the return line hang. The transmission doesn't suck the fluid back via the return line. The transmission pump pushes the fluid through the system with positive pressure. When you take the return line off, you're just breaking the route back to the transmission.
3)The apps are pretty accurate based off what I've seen with my rig and reports from other people on Toyota forums. For my rig, the Torque Pro app seems very accurate for coolant temp and trans temp but doesn't show an accurate reading for volts. The Torque Pro app will show around 13.2 volts when my charging system is actually putting out around 14.2 volts. I know this because I tested my charging system with a multi-meter and another OBDII reader I own.
Very good presentation about the Transmission flush! I appreciate your taking the time to explain things.
Paul Gordon Thanks for taking the time to comment. We make these videos for people like YOU that appreciate a lot of info.
Should you shift through the gears as you're doing the 1 qt. swaps?
Interesting thought but I don't think shifting the gears would do anything for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman Shifting in a repeating drive/neutral/reverse pattern (with a firm foot on the brake, of course), pausing 3-5 seconds between shifts, will engage the torque converter and allow ATF to flow through the various valve body passages. Torque converters typically have a marginal load at idle (that's why you can feel a vehicle lurch ever so slightly when shifting to drive or reverse).
koomo801 that’s some good info. Thanks for adding this info to this video. I hope it helps someone.
Thanks Timmy, this is another great DIY video. I think is time for my trans fluid to be replaced.
You're welcome. Good luck with the Trans flush.
When torquing the drain plug it looked to me like the plug didn't turn at all when you put the torque wrench on it. This would indicate that you were already at (as you stated) OR BEYOND the proper torque. If beyond the proper torque the wrench will click with no discernible movement of the item being torqued which is how it appears to be in the video. Perhaps you saw/felt it rotate slightly?
Automotive and aircraft mechanic
ASE certified automotive mech
Quality Assurance Inspector
Your observation is absolutely correct. The bolt did not move so I could have been right at the torque spec or beyond it. I can't remember if I stated this in the video, but I've only been using torque wrenches for the last couple years. So, for 34 of my 36 years of wrenching on vehicles, I didn't use a torque wrench. I learned how to tighten things without stripping them at an early age. So, what I didn't say in the video is I wasn't concerned that I might have went beyond the torque value.
Most of my wrenching career has been doing relatively simple repairs and maintenance so I never saw a need to own a torque wrench. Now that I'm tackling more involved jobs, I like using my torque wrenches. However, I still don't bother torquing drain plugs on oil pans, differentials, transmissions or transfer cases because I've tightened them hundreds of times and never stripped one. A little common sense and understanding mechanical advantage can take you pretty far.
Now, for the kind of stuff you're doing like aircraft mechanics, I'd imagine every nut and bolt needs to be torqued to spec.
By the way, Thanks for your service to our Country. Semper Fi.
Well thank you for taking my comment in a positive way and for a nice response. I too went a long time without using a torque wrench on automotive applications. However, my experiences in aviation (and associated formal aviation and automotive schools) sold me on the value of torque wrenches. On a thin steel trans pan for instance, they ensure even pressure around the pan and help prevent leaks. Even a homeowners torque wrench that isn't all that accurate will usually be consistent and help in such applications
I just found it interesting that you broke out the manual to show the part number for the crush washer then proceeded to "torque" it with the "calibrated elbow" method.
On the military fighters I worked on (I've also wrenched on a couple of Cessna's that I owned personally) yeah.....not everything has a torque value but damn near. Critical items are torqued AND safety wired. Things are so critical in high G, Mach plus fighters that even the direction a bolt with nut is installed can be critical. I once downed an aircraft I was supposed to inspect before I got within 15 feet of it.....the flight control surfaces on the trailing edge of the wing had the bolts installed with the bolt heads outboard and the nuts inboard.....the spec was that they HAD to be heads inboard and nuts outboard. I'm not an engineer but I believe that these critical flight surfaces dictated the bolt installation direction in order to help keep the bolt in the hinge should the safety wire fail and the nut backed off (or it broke).
Automotive applications have similar engineering but the maintenance requirements aren't so critical when your wheels stay on the ground. For instance, one large torque value we had on the lug nuts of certain trucks required using a lug wrench, a cheater bar, a Marine who had just been weighed, a tape measure, and a calculator. We actually calculated where on the cheater bar the Marine had to stand in order to apply the proper torque......it was one hella high torque value and the wrench was not on our authorized equipment list. Go figure. By contrast, we had a similar torque value on the F18 Hornet but had the proper torque wrench......complete with manufacturer supplied "cheater" bar. Without that bar no one could apply enough torque.
Thanks for sharing all that. For the videos we put out, I provide the torque values for those that live and die by the torque spec. Because I've never stripped a drain pan bolt, had one leak or back out, I guess I have a lot of confidence that I can do it by feel or the "Calibrated Elbow" as you call it. This is pure conjecture on my part, but I'm guessing I was probably within a couple pounds of the torque value for that drain pan bolt. Simply adjusting for the size of the fastener and understanding leverage is all you really need. Would I have installed that small transmission drain pan bolt with a big half inch drive ratchet, with my hand on the very end of the ratchet handle and with me applying a lot of force? Of course not. I tightened the transmission drain pan bolt like I would normally do by feel and then I wanted to see if I was at least at the torque value given in the factory service manual. When I started wrenching at an early age on my 68 Bronco in 1981 and working at a full-service Chevron gas station, I never used a torque wrench and never saw anyone else use one either.
One problem I see with torque values is sometimes the value given in the manual is wrong and people will blindly follow them with bad results. So, a person still needs to use some common sense and understand when they see a value that doesn't make sense. I've found several mistakes in my factory service manual, some really bad where they say foot pounds when it should have been inch pounds. Most recently, I was doing a timing belt job and used my inch pound torque wrench because it was the only one that would fit where I needed it. I had to convert foot pounds to inch pounds and the value I needed was at the max range of my inch pound torque wrench, 240 in-lbf. As I was applying force and it was getting to the point I thought I should hit the value, it never came. This was a bolt into an aluminum oil pump body. I figured maybe my wrench might not be that accurate at it's max value so I backed it off by 20 inch pounds, hit 220 and called it good.
So, what am I trying to say? A person still needs to have a "FEEL" for how to tighten fasteners and know when possibly the torque wrench isn't working properly and also be able to spot a mistake in a manual when the value given doesn't jive with the size of the fastener. I not only work on automobiles, I've done a ton of wrenching on bicycles over the last 32 years and sometimes turn a wrench on the fire apparatus we drive at my fire department.
Take Care and Happy Wrenching!
Oh yes...you HAVE to have an understanding of the systems and components you're working on to be able to know when things "just aren't right".
I did two tours with F18 Hornets. First tour they told me "you can't be an inspector until you've gone to school"......6 months later they said "when can you take your inspectors test" but I hadn't been to school. What I had done is read EVERY maintenance manual for the aircraft and those for my particular specialty (ordnance) TWICE and I'd done just about every maintenance task under supervision of an inspector. They changed their minds on the "not until you go to school" because I'd learned the systems better than most of the inspectors.
On my second tour (same unit after a few years away) I was in the Quality Assurance work center....comprised of one highly knowledgeable inspector from each work center and the final inspection authority for releasing aircraft after major maintenance. I partially downed (certain configurations not allowed) an aircraft for failing a particular electrical check of the Ordnance system (my specialty). Oh we went round and round on that one for about 8 months, including Ordnance techs who disagreed with me and my "reading" of the inspection card. I stood my ground and one day I get a call on the radio to go out to that aircraft......turns out that during some other maintenance, the electronics shop discovered that the reason the bird wouldn't pass the inspection I downed it for was that the wire wasn't in the right place in the connecting plug and the signal could not be delivered to the component.
I was vindicated but I'd have never known it was wrong had I not understood every system and component and how they interacted and recognized that they were doing the inspection improperly. The system was the emergency jettison system and critical in an emergency situation. Had it not worked it could have meant the difference between losing an aircraft and/or pilot or the pilot being able to jettison excess weight and saving teh aircraft and himself.
We have to understand the system and it's components so that 100 foot pounds of torque on a transmission bolt going into a 1/2 inch of aluminum jumps out at us and says "somethings not right here".
In aviation the maintenance manuals are updated constantly. In fact, one or more people in each shop are tasked with inserting the changes, they occur that often! We don't have that with autos and a misprint in the manual is pretty much there to stay unless you're working at a dealership with dealer manuals.
Open Carry, That is what I was saying but you said it better.
This job is next up for my '98, and changing out the filter/strainer. The question is... does it make more sense to do the filter before or after the flush? Or does it not matter at all? Thank you again for making all of these videos AND for taking the time to answer these questions YEARS after making the videos!! Quite a commitment to helping all of us
I would start with the pan drop and filter replacement because you'll drain out around 1/2 of the system capacity, around 6 quarts. Add 6 quarts and then start the flush. You'll probably see clean looking fluid at around the 6 quart mark, so 6 rounds of draining a quart and adding a quart.
How about jacking up the rear and going through some gears to flush out the valve bady 🤔 my 99 has been making a slight whine noise for several years now..... Wonder if this would make it quieter? I know it's probably the torque converter.....
Thanks for posting...it helps significantly to "visually see" how to do something.
You're welcome John. What's weird is some people prefer write-ups over videos and I find that very strange. Sure, a picture shows you something but there's no comparison to a video where you're able to see exactly how somebody got it done. There's a guy that has used our videos as a reference and then does these exhaustive write-ups with pictures of his hand and finger pointing after different parts with notes on what to do. Wouldn't it just be easier to watch the video and get the extra detail which often is the difference between having an easy time and having a struggle? But, whatever floats somebody's boat. If you prefer write-ups, use them I guess.
Well...at work...I was going to make a presentation..and I asked the PowerPoint expert to sit in and do a dry run with me...he listened...and said "there are two kinds of audience...some will listen to every word you say...and NOT pay any attention to your written PowerPoint....others will READ every word on your PowerPoint presentation, and NOT listen a verbal word you say...basically, he was saying there are two kinds of audience....verbal vs visual...and maybe some are one or the other...that's all...I try to do both....but, it's difficult....hahahah..hahahah...I do have some G35 literature...I do read it...but, it doesn't hurt to see a video and also read material....hahhahaa
Thanks for the video, its quality and content are superb! I think I am ready to change the transmission fluid in my 2001 Toyota Sequoia. I believe is the same fluid that you used in your video. Thanks again.
You're welcome Tarzan. Say hi to Jane for me. I bet you never that joke very much.
Terrific video gents! Thank you, will be doing this soon once weather warms up and great tips on keeping temps low!
Thanks and you're welcome. Good luck with the job when you get around to doing it. Happy Wrenching!
Finally getting around to doing this tomorrow, had to watch the video again as a refresher course 👍🍻
Good luck with the job Matt.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you, appreciate the help
Thanks you show very good timmy tools
You're welcome.
Bonus points for that old Yamaha ATC in the background, not a lot of those around anymore!
I don't have it anymore. I used it for volunteer trail work, but since I stopped helping maintain a trail system, I decided to sell it. I made room for more tools.
Great video. I bought a 1/2” inch clear tubing to fit on the radiator to flush out. Just flushed out my 23 year old tranny fluid. Took about 12 quarts for my Toyota to start peeing clean transmission fluid. Pretty soon the 4runner will almost be brand new after doing all these maintenance videos!
Using clear tubing is a good idea. Glad our videos are helping you out. Happy Wrenching!
I like this much better than connecting to a fluid flush machine with this you know exactly what fluids are going into your transmission. The question is will the local family owned repair shop do this for me or will they insist on using the fluid flush machine?
They will probably use their flush machine. I recently learned more about these fancy flush machines and they don't seem harmful to the transmissions. What they are doing is basically a dilution process of adding and removing fluid over and over again but it gets the fluid in good shape after it's done. But Susan, you could just do this yourself by following our video. It's not hard. Or, you can just do a few drain and refills of the pan over 3 engine oil changes. At every engine oil change, you also drain and replace the oil in the trans pan. After 3 times of doing this, your trans fluid will be a great shape.
HAHA you opened this with such a good song! I saw AIC play in seattle a little while before the world ended.
Good and easy understanding how to flush oil transmission.thank you
Glad you found the video easy to understand and follow. You're very welcome.
Great video Timmy
The 80 Series flush is a cool deal, you do it by the gallon off the transmission cooler.
For years I have seen and heard pros and cons for Toyota lifetime sealed transmissions. Some drain and fill but don't let the pan snorkel drain till up to temperature. It's my understanding the most comprehensive way to do the lifetime seal transmission is to jump the OBD2 and let the transmission light tell you when it's at temperature and when to seal up the snorkel. I've also considered using my fluke meter with the temperature probe and depending on the truck like for the Toyota Sequoia it's 183°
You ever thought about doing a video on this? I know it's a hot topic.
We did a video on flushing a sealed transmission. We did it on my buddy Thanh's GX470. We basically use the same technique as this video draining a quart and adding a quart until we get to around 12-13 quarts exchanged but then we go through the fluid level procedure that the Toyota service manual specifies. Check out the video if you'd like. ua-cam.com/video/gx5dU3UVcRs/v-deo.html
Well done. Excellent explanation with thorough details and screen shots. Tim, you are a great educator. Thank you for helping all of us shade tree mechanics. I'm debating flushing the fluid (brownish red) on my '04....178k with last change at 83k.
Thanks again....
Thanks! We're glad you like the video and we appreciate the nice compliment. You're very welcome. If I were you, I'd renew the fluid slowly by doing a series of drain and refills of the pan spread out over around 10-15k miles. Here's my suggestion on how to do it. At your next engine oil and filter change, do a drain and refill of the trans pan. At your next engine oil and filter change, do another drain and refill of the trans pan. Finally after yet another engine oil and filter change do a 3rd drain and refill. After 3 drain and refills, your fluid will be in great shape. Doing it this way is safer because introducing a full capacity of fresh fluid all at once might dislodge sludge build-up in the trans and cause a blockage somewhere like the valve body. ATF has great detergent qualities and that's why you want to be careful exchanging all the fluid out at one time in a trans that's been a bit abused.
100k miles is a lot of miles on that fluid. Even though auto manufacturers say their sealed transmissions can go 100k miles without changing the fluid, that's complete bullshit for a whole lot of people. There's not magic fluids out there. Heat causes ATF to lose it's lubricating properties. If you never got over 170 degrees with the fluid, it could last 100k miles. If this was a vehicle that lived in the flat lands and never towed anything, that could be possible. If the rig is driven in the mountains at all, you will be going over 170 a whole bunch. So, it depends on how the rig is driven on how long the fluid will properly protect the transmission.
I do a drain and refill of my trans every 10k miles. This keeps my fluid in great shape. I've never done a full flush on any of my rigs. Some guys like to wait a certain interval like 30k or 50k miles and do a complete flush like we show in this video. Doing more frequent drain and refills is so simple and effective so that's why I choose this method over a full flush.
@@TimmyTheToolman Tim, Thank you for your cogent and expeditious advice. I will heed your recommendation. I purchased the 4Runner used (approx. 150k) 5 years ago. The car was a local (Chicago suburb) trade in but appeared to have been used for some off-roading (many scratches and dents....hood and sides.) The hitch is very rusty, but no way to tell if used for towing. I had planned to drop the pan and replace the filter, but after viewing a couple of videos that described the difficulty in reaching a couple of the rear bolts (especially when lying on one's back), I decided to pursue other options....your video.
The engine sounds great and trans is fine (currently,) but would like to head to Colorado/Utah for some off-roading and not have to worry about the tranny.
Thanks again for your help......you're the best. SM
@@greenjondear You're very welcome. Have fun with your rig.
Hey Timmy... I'm a new 2001 4Runner owner and channel subscriber. I'm changing the radiator out and was curious if that would be a good time to flush the trans fluid? I bought it from my sister and it's in great condition with 186k. Shifts and runs like a champ. The transmission oil looks clean on the stick, but my brother law doesn't remember if, or when they ever flushed it. I love the detailed approach to your videos. Thanks!
da324 doesn’t hurt to do a drain & refill of the trans fluid to get a better picture of how dirty it is then go from there. If it’s clean, I wouldn’t do a drain & refill for a while. If it’s dirty, consider the drain & refill over the next couple oil changes to renew the fluid.
I did it! I decided to flush one quart at a time. I was working by myself. The only odd thing I noticed was hearing some kind of clicking noise at the very start of the flush of fluid of the one quart each time. Not sure if that was normal or not. Heard the clicking each time for all 10 7/8 quarts. LOL. I can see why one would want to flush out the ENTIRE 10 7/8 quarts my G35 Infiniti Coupe 2007 capacity. I did a drain couple week ago of 4.0 quarts... I can see why the drain seems like a worthless effort. Now the fluid if pretty and clean they way it should be! I was very careful to take it SLOW on the entire procedure. Been driving the car last few hours...driving smoothly...no issues...Next time, I will ask someone to input the one quart as it comes out simultaneously...not sure if that would quiet the odd clicking noise...the noise was not for very long...maybe 1 second once I started the car at each repetition...The fluid drains out fast...I would say one quart every 5 seconds....I did "time" inputting the fluid to my surprise it goes in very fast, about one quart per 7 seconds...but I decided to wait until after the one quart flush...The only question I have is "should I have plugged the open ended tube I removed the return hose from?..I decided to not remove the hose at the hose-radiator (return side)....but higher up...following the return hose up about 12 inches, and disconnected from the steel or metal tube connection....I did this because it gave me hose to play with as I attached into it a 3/8 outer diameter hose into the radiator return hose, for G35, my car...it's on the driver side...
Good job getting it done. No, you didn't need to cap off that line you pulled the hose off of.
Amazing video! Very detailed and clear. Thank you!
Thanks for the compliment. We're glad you like the video. You're very welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment.
even if you just do a drain and fill, every oil change, there is no reason for damaged transmission due to neglect of fluid on a 3rd gen. it is so straight forward. I don't know why they switched to dipstickless transmissions on newer cars... makes things so much of a pain.
I didn't think of your method for an even more thorough process. Great for people who might have had the pink shake or might have been a little late on there last drain and fill.
Is it really just the toyota WS fluid trannys that is anal about toyota fluid only? It seems a see a bunch of videos just using valvaline. based on my readings, i kept seeing use toyota fluid or world will end type posts on the internet. I am no expert. I guess any fresh fluid is better than old fluid.
As always thank you for your time in the videos.
Hey Bardia, I agree with you. I normally just do regular drain and refills of the pan to keep my fluid in good shape. But, there are purists out there that scoff at this "Dilution" technique. And you know what, to each his own. I believe my method of draining and refilling the pan every 10,000 miles is keeping my fluid in really good shape. Now, if I wasn't willing to do it that often, and wanted to wait until the 30,000 mile mark to drain the fluid, a full flush would be much better. I like the ease of just removing a drain plug, draining the fluid, putting a new crush washer on, tightening the bolt and filling it back up. It's so simple. Easier than changing the engine oil and filter.
I don't know about newer Toyota transmissions but using any Dextron III compatible ATF is fine in my book for our rigs. It's just like the "Use Toyota Red Coolant Only or Die!" My truck was converted at some point to Prestone Green and that's fine by me because that's what I've been using in all my vehicles up to this point. The good thing about Preston Green is you can find it anywhere. Suppose you bust a radiator hose somewhere in the middle of nowhere. Think you're going to find Toyota Red in some small podunk town auto parts store. Good Luck! If I had Toyota Red in my truck, I'd carry some 50/50 with me in case I get a leak and have to repair it. But, if it's a lower radiator hose and you lose most of your coolant, you'd need to carry at least 2 gallons with you. So, something to think about for those insisting on using only Toyota Red in their rigs.
And hey, I'm glad you're finding the videos Sean and I have been making useful.
Btw, did the alternator brush replacement today. Getting the alternator back into the bracket so we could get the pivot bolt back in fought us but we finally got it lined up and back together. My brushes were worn down but there was still some life left to them.
Very good and thank you Timmy, from Brazil.
Thanks and you're very welcome David from Brazil. Hopefully I'll visit your country one day. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Excellent Work, greetings from Honduras.
Thanks Henry. I think you're the first person to let us know they use our videos in Honduras. Happy Wrenching!
Congratulations it is a real good video very well explanated,I learn a lot from you.God belss you.
Hey Oscar, thanks for the kind words. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Good day! Timmy I’m so happy to have come across the trans flush, and appreciate the information a lot because I have been planning to change it.But I have something to ask since I have been planning to get a strainer because my truck has a whining noise and I thought the strainer is clogged so now my question is will flashing kind of unclog the filter?
Will appreciate your thought on this…it’s a 3rd gen 1998 with 115km on it and bought it at 90 so no service history.
The whining noise probably isn't due to a clogged filter but I can't say for sure. Doing the flush won't unclog the filter. You used the right term for it though. It's really a fine mesh metal strainer and not a true filter. It's worth a shot to replace the strainer and do the flush before moving on to more expensive options. I'm thinking that whine is coming from the torque converter.
Curious to why the filter wasn’t changed. My 2003 4Runner came with a factory trans cooler mounted in front of of the radiator. Another great video
The transmission filter is a fine metal mesh strainer. They can get clogged if the transmission was really abused and sludge deposits built up, but usually, the filter really never needs to be replaced.
Thank you for a very comprehensive video.
You're welcome Francis. "Don't call me Francis, call me Psycho." Can you name the movie that line came from?
Thank you so much, love the details in all your videos!!
You're very welcome. Glad you appreciate the detail we offer. We don't want anyone to be confused or lost using our videos as a tutorial and that's why we spend the extra time to document the jobs so thoroughly.
My 99 sr5 has 320k on it. Should I do a flush? No transmission issues. Just trying to catch up on maintenance. I got it at 306k.
With that kind of mileage and I'm assuming an unknown service history, I think it would be safer to do a series of drain and refills. Drain the pan which will remove around 4-4.5 quarts from the system and then refill it. In another 5,000 miles, maybe timed with your next engine oil change, perform another drain and refill. Wait another 5,000 miles and do a 3rd drain and refill and your fluid should be in really good shape after that. I do a drain and refill every 10,000 miles (every other engine oil change), and this keeps my trans fluid in great shape. I confirmed this by doing a Blackstone Labs oil analysis of my fluid.
Introducing the full capacity of fresh fluid might be dangerous because ATF has great detergent qualities and if there's sludge buildup in the trans, that fresh fluid could break up deposits that could become lodged in a fluid passageway in the valve body and then you're going to have trans problems that will force you to pull the trans and replace it.
At 8:00 you put the torque wrench on the nut that was already tight. Because it clicked, it was AT LEAST that tight. BUT it may have been over-tightened and still click ? PS you make some of the best TEACHING videos I ever see. Thanks.
Hey Steve, you're right, I could have had it over the torque spec but I wasn't concerned. I've tightened drain plugs hundreds of times over the years doing oil changes, transmission fluid changes and gear oil changes on my vehicles and never stripped one.
I've been wrenching on vehicles for around 36 years but it hasn't been until recently that I started diving in further into auto mechanics than the usual general maintenance and tune-up sort of stuff. I bought my first torque wrench almost 2 years ago and now I own a total of 3. I learned at a young age how to avoid breaking and stripping fasteners and it was pretty much just using common sense. With a small fastener, use a small wrench or choke up on a longer wrench to reduce your mechanical advantage and don't put a lot of muscle into it. With a larger fastener, maybe use all the mechanical advantage you can get with the wrench and put some serious muscle into it because it's a big bolt holding something like the transmission to the engine. I do have to admit I like owning several torque wrenches now and it is nice to know you are tightening fasteners to the spec the Toyota engineers determined was best.
One important thing you have to realize about following factory service manual torque values is they are sometimes wrong. We have found several mistakes in the FSM. Some are pretty bad and if you blindly follow the manual, you will be breaking off bolts and stripping threads. So, you still have to use common sense and realize when a torque value published in the book has got to be a mistake.
We're stoked you like what we're doing. I also like that you used the word TEACHING because that's one of our goals making these videos. Our videos tend to be pretty long because we really want to educate the viewer and give them the best chance at success with the job. We're not perfect and sometimes the technique or method we share doesn't end up being the easiest but we try to report back in the video description helpful tricks we learn later from people commenting or we learn on forums.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching Steve!
Hey Tim, another GREAT VIDEO!! Where did you get the 5-qt clear picture and where did you get the 12 quart clear container?? Thanks Tim!!
Hey Richard, glad you like the video. Those containers are linked in the video description. Click on "Show More" and the video description will expand out to show the links and other information.
It's a shame they took the plug out of the torque converter. I remember buying a 63 Plymouth Belvedere and it needed a battery and tune up and while I was changing the engine oil I also changed the trans fluid. I moved the torque converter around until I saw the plug and removed it. I measured how much fluid came out and then topped it off according to the dip stick. Wish I still had my 63. Good video I did this on my son's Camry. It did not want to shift into and stay in overdrive. After changing the ATF overdrive worked like a champ.
Yeah, a plug in the torque converter would be nice to have. But, this flush gets it done even though it takes a little longer. Glad you like the video and you had a great result after renewing the fluid. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Hi Timmy! Thanks for the great videos to help the DIY for 3rd Gen 4runners. I want to share a product with you that I have tried on my 1997 Toyota 4Runner called Hot Shot Transmission Stiction Eliminator. I have used the product right before a transmission flush on both my 4Runner and my wife’s Sienna and it helps the transmission shift smoother. Something that you might want to test out.
Need to make a video on how to change transmission fluid on a 2009 Toyota Tundra 5.7 liter, with no dip stick. How is it done.
Should I change the filter? Then change the entire fluid? Thanks Bobby.
A bit past your time, but For all the Tundra, Tacoma, heck, Almost any Toyota without a dipstick, observer the following.... (this is from a Tacoma point of view, but similar for others). You fill the trans from the side hole (24mm bolt I believe) on the passenger side. You check level buy loosening the "overflow plug: in the bottom (hex key). After drain, or filter swap (and reinstalling the pan), whatever, add fluid until it starts trickling out the overflow plug. adapt the rest of tim's procedures as needed, or follow the FSM if you can get one. Hope that helps.
@@sdonovan149 The procedure you mention is totally dependent on fluid temperature, since ATF expands greatly when heated. Unless you have the scan tool to accurately measure the fluid temperature on the fly, I would not use the "trickle" check. Assuming you have had no leaks and assuming the transmission fluid level was correct before your service attempt, the best thing to do is to accurately measure the amount drained and add exactly that amount back into the fill plug.
Hi Tim great video. You state in one of your replies "You are correct, there will be some old fluid left in the rubber and metal return line that goes back to the transmission but some of that will drain out of the line as you let it hang while you are doing the flush procedure".
Is it better to leave the return line open (where it could potentially suck in some dirt), or plug it so nothing can get sucked into the transmission?
Just thought I'd ask before I do this to my 2006 Highlander.
Thanks - Greg
Hey Greg, glad you like the video. You can just let the line hang over a drain pan. I don't believe there would be any suction on the return line but I don't know this for certain. I guess during the flush procedure you could put your finger over the end of the rubber hose and see if it gets sucked against it. As long as the hose isn't resting on the ground or submerged in a dirty drain pan, you wouldn't have to worry about anything being sucked in.
Thanks for the quick reply Tim !!
@@gregdzierzynski278 You're welcome!
I just want to do a basic transmission drain and fill with every oil change. Would it be as simple as pulling the drain plug, measuring the amount that came out, and replacing that same amount with fresh fluid? Would measuring the temp be necessary with this method? Or is it basically drain, refill, and plug? Thanks.
If you can measure it very accurately, your method would work. With that said, I do measure the amount that comes out and replace that approximate amount but then I do bring my trans to operating temp and confirm the level is right. The food grade container I drain the oil into has graduated marks but it's rare that you fall perfectly on one of the marks but rather somewhere in-between so there's a bit of guesswork on how much drained out. It gets you very close but not exact. Are you dealing with one of those sealed transmissions without a dipstick?
Amazing Video, I plan on doing a flush on my sienna as I used T-IV instead of WS, how much quarts did you use in all?
We used around 12 quarts. That's the approximate system capacity for 3rd Gen 4runners. You could just go by visual though. As soon as the fluid looks brand new coming out the cooler hose, you're done. But, 12 quarts is probably going to be about right for your vehicle too.
How often would you recommend doing this as opposed to just draining and replacing the fluid (or would you ever)? Also, I noticed you used a transmission fluid that was not distributed by your manufacturer. Are there any things to look out for when choosing a transmission fluid that is not of your car's make?
If you want to stick with full flushes rather than doing drain and refills, you should do it every 30k miles. If you do a lot of driving in the mountains or you tow, do a full flush every 15k miles.
You just have to choose a fluid that is compatible with your original spec. In this video, we chose a fluid that is compatible with Dexron 3 ATF.
I personally do a drain and refill every 10k miles rather than do full flushes. I drive a fair amount in the mountains so I like introducing new fluid on a more regular basis.
@@TimmyTheToolman
Hea tim what if i used Toyota tiv fuild on my 02 tacoma should i keep using this or use dexll / lll thats whats on my dipstick ??
@@cray7139 You can use any fluid that is compatible with the Dexron 3 spec. I use Valvoline Maxlife.
Tim I'm curious what your thoughts are on doing the drain and fill over a few thousand miles versus doing the complete flush in one go. I'm adding the transmission cooler and am leaning toward the drain and fill so not to 'shock' the trans and valve body as some suggest. Seems like there are opinions all around but I'm sure you've heard a lot of 3rd Gen 4Runner folks give you their results so I thought I'd ask. My oil is pretty dirty so it would definitely be a jolt to the system going straight all new ATF. Thanks in advance, Ash
Man I literally just noticed your reply to a thread below a year ago where you do recommend a drain and fill in extreme examples. I think I'm going to go with my gut and lean toward that method.
@@Ash-cy7yw Hey Ash, definitely go with the drain and refills. It's a dilution process, but if you do it often enough, your fluid stays in really good shape. After the initial series of drain and refills spread out over around 5k miles, I now do a drain and refill every 10k and replace my in-line magnetic trans filter at the same time. The Magnefine in-line filters I use are rated for 30k miles, but I just change them out sooner just because it makes me feel better. A Blackstone Labs analyzation of my trans fluid proved to me that drain and refill do an excellent job of keep the fluid in great shape. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks Tim much appreciated as always. Feel free to cruise by my house tomorrow and watch me if you're out and about with nothing going on. I won't make you get your hands dirty I promise..
Excellent comprehensive video. Thank you for sharing this. Where can I find a rubber drain hose? Also, what size hose did you use?
Hey Joseph, glad you like the video. Just get a 3/8" section of transmission cooler line. If the auto parts store doesn't have it, 3/8" fuel line would work too.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks sir!
Joseph Coates you’re welcome
Nice video Timmy! Hey, quick question about the transmission/cooler hose. Are the low and high pressure hoses the same, as far as diameter and durability? If not, would you please share a link where I can buy them? Thanks man. Big fan of your channel!
There really isn't a high or low pressure hose. They are start off as steel lines from the transmission and then they connect to the trans cooler via rubber lines. Those rubber send and return lines are both made from the same material. There's no difference because the pressure is same throughout. The trans pump moves the fluid from the trans to the cooler and then back to the trans. You can buy rubber transmission cooler line at any auto parts store. Visit your local auto parts store and ask for 3/8" transmission oil cooler hose.
Timmy The Toolman Thanks for the info. I’m going around my 1997 4Runner looking to replace all rubber line/hose so I bought a set of silicone vacuum hose kit of 4mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm (mostly for engine bay dress ups). I doubt if I’m able to cover everything but, I heard silicones aren’t good against oil or fuel applications. I’m very new to this so... are the rubber fuel-line next to the tank 3/8” as well? Thanks you.
@@Needle620 I'm not sure what the diameter of the fuel lines are. My advice is if it's not broke, don't fix it. Sure, vacuum lines can harden and crack over time. If you see one that needs replacing, replace it. I wouldn't go around changing all your rubber lines just because. I think you're making a lot of work for yourself.
What’s the part number and Mfg of the OBD2 BT sensor? I have iOS but assume the make one for iPhones. Great series, well documented and very detailed info!
Check the video description. We provide links there. The reader I use is made for Android phones only. But, if you do a search on Amazon, you'll find a reader that will work well with your iPhone.
Hey Timmy, thanks for all the great videos!
I'm wondering, wouldn't omitting the pan draining portion of this and just doing the removing fluid from return side of the radiator and replacing through the dipstick tube part until the fluid is coming out clean get the same result and would replace the fluid in the pan anyway? Or am I missing something? Maybe there is something to how the fluid flows through the different parts of the transmission that I'm not understanding?
Edit: I just saw your response to another viewers same question.
Yep, same result. It just replaces 4 flushing rounds by draining the pan.
Your garage sounds like it's underwater 😆 love your videos
Yes, the garage is in the lost city of Atlantis. Underwater auto mechanics is almost as fun as underwater basket weaving.
I'm looking to do a trans filter change/fluid flush on my 2014 4runner. Should I go ahead and do the flush procedure first with removing the line and filtering new fluid through it THEN dropping the pan and replacing the filter, adding some new fluid and be done with it? To me that sounds correct, I have a scan too to check trans temps & am familiar with using the overflow bolt design so it (dribbles out) since mine is a sealed trans.
You could do it the way you're saying. I've never done this on a sealed transmission so I can't comment on how to do that. I did hear the technical service bulletin on how to perform the operation on a Toyota Sealed Transmission sounds pretty complicated. If it's as easy as you say by just getting it to operating temp and having it at the level of the overflow bolt that would be nice.
Great video, something past my expertise though.
Can I ask you what the two metal silver tubes (about 3/8" diameter) are at 5:25 right under the belts? (Other transmission fluid lines?)
I have what appears as a clear red transmission fluid leaking where the tubes are attached to the vehicle via a metal bracket.
Those are power steering lines. The power steering system also uses ATF fluid.
You make great videos! I really enjoy your content thx
Thanks man! We appreciate the compliment
Great job I’ve really learned a lot! Thank you very much!!
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Cool. Honestly only thing I would’ve done differently would be drop the pan, replace the transmission filter and clean the magnets that are on the bottom of the pan. they’re probably caked with metal shavings.
My take on dropping the pan is I'd do it if the transmission had an unknown service history and the trans fluid was really dark. Then I might be interested and dropping the pan to see how much metal debris was on the magnets to give me a clue on the health of the transmission. If the trans is regularly serviced, dropping the pan isn't necessary in my opinion. Those magnets could hold a lifetime of fine metal debris. What I do for extra filtration is I run an inline magnetic filter in the transmission return line. Magnefine makes them and they are rated for 30k miles.
thxs very much tim your video was so helpful for my toyota prado 2006 ( 1KZ-TE ENGINE / TRANS A343F)
You're very welcome. Glad our video helped you out. Happy Wrenching!
Great video! Does the disconnected return rubber hose have to be capped off or does did it not leak during this entire process? Thanks
It will leak when you take it off and then maybe drip a tiny amount while you're doing the flush. Just try to wedge the rubber tube somewhere with the open end pointed up and you won't get any residual dripping while doing the job.
Another great video Tim! And I was thinking should I change my filter out on the valve body before I do this or after I do it?
Thanks! Honestly, unless you think the transmission was abused in the past and the fluid was allowed to get very dirty, that filter is fine and probably 95% unclogged. When I took my filter out and cut it open to examine the fine mesh filter material, the screen was mostly clean. But, my trans received regular services over the years. So, maybe don't bother with the trans filter replacement at all and just flush the fluid if your trans was well taken care of over it's lifetime. If you don't know the history of your trans, a filter replacement might be a good idea. I would replace it after the flush so you don't partially clog up the new filter running dirty fluid through it.
Great video and thank you! In the torque app there's two methods listed for reading transmission temperature. What is the difference between the two and which one should I use to do this procedure on a Toyota RAV4?
I'm pretty sure I'm using Method 3. For me, there was only one transmission temp method highlighted in green so that was the only one available. Do you have multiple ones highlighted in green? If so, try method 3 first.
@@TimmyTheToolman Wow thanks for the speedy reply. So what I did was I added a custom pid and that one is listed with the methods 1 and 2. None are high lighted in green. Does my obd2 reader have to be plugged into the vehicle and connected to my phone in order to have any of those options highlighted in green?
@@bryans8193 Yes, you need to be connected.
Trick that I found for those hoses being stuck is get a heat gun, heat them for a few seconds then turn them. The heat softens the rubber and lets them break free!
Thanks for sharing your hose removal trick.
5 Stars , you just break the myth ! Thanks
Thanks Joao and you're very welcome.
@@TimmyTheToolman When you feel struggle on a Island like Madeira , which info is kept in secret and suddenly you just turn up , it's like breathing in the air :)
@@freefromleftwing This is one of the things I like about running a UA-cam channel. Our videos can reach anyone with an internet connection. You're definitely the first person who's said they live on the Island of Madeira. What's it like living there? What do you do for a living? I met another Joao not too long ago and his ancestors come from Brazil. He lives in Nevada City, California and I met him doing volunteer trail work in the gold country.
@@TimmyTheToolman, Madeira island it's a spot on the planet that you should pay a visit . Plenty of hills for 4x4 ,
excellent food , very mild weather and nice and friendly people , as Portuguese in general are . I am a retired IT eng and I am living in the slowest pace as possible . Why rush anyway ! I would like to ask your help
regarding my old companion hilux surf 2.4 TD 92 auto LN130 . João ( John in English ) it's a Portuguese name . Brasil was discovered and colonized by us and the official language it's Portuguese ( Brazilian ) . i believe there is thousands of João's in Brasil :)
@@freefromleftwing Sounds like a nice place to retire. Maybe one day I'll visit. One thing I haven't done is travel extensively. I would like to do more. What kind of help do you need with the Hilux?
After you hand, tightened the transmission drain plug and you checked it with the torque wrench, even though your torque wrench clicked at your 180 inch pounds You still theoretically, could have tightened it beyond that point, and it clicked only because it was beyond that point already. Also I’m wondering since you’re running the car with transmission fluid draining for several seconds you are in fact, running it with less transmission oil than it should. Or do you figure that a quart low is OK for that amount of time? Why not just do two or three complete drain and refills?
There is no way you can hand tighten past the torque spec. But ultimately it’s good to become familiar with tightness outside of a torque spec. For a drain plug, you can rely on tightening by hand once you have more experience. You never want the transmission to run dry and replacing 1 quart at a time is pretty safe. Because we are relying on the pump to move the fluid through the system, that is another reason why you wouldn’t even want to come close to running it dry or low.
- Sean
This was sooo informative thanks
Great to hear you found our video informative. You're very welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Bloody good indepth video Timmy. I'm impressed 10/10.I'll do mine this way i can't go wrong.
We're glad you like it and thanks for taking the time to comment.
Do you recommend a good quality ATF for Toyota or use Genuine Toyota ATF?? i have a Yaris (UK) Cheers.
In my 3rd Gen 4runner, I use a Valvoline Dex/Merc. Dex/Merc is a replacement for Dextron 3. You don't need to run Toyota ATF. Just buy the correct ATF for your vehicle from an established company like Valvoline or Castrol and you'll be fine.
You do have the option to run a synthetic ATF and that choice is up to you. I run a conventional ATF and just replace it on a regular basis.
I do a drain and refill of my trans pan every 10,000 miles to keep my trans fluid in good shape. I get around a 3rd of the system capacity when I do a drain and refill, so in 30,000 miles, which is the suggested interval to renew your ATF, I've replaced the entire capacity. Now, this method is a dilution process meaning I'm mixing new fluid with old fluid but it's very effective to keep the ATF in good shape to avoid doing the full flush procedure. Drain and refills are very simple, quick and effective and that's why I like it.
Thanks Timmy,did alot of research 90% say use the Toyota WS and 10% say use a afew other good quality well know compatible fluids BUT that could cause trouble later they say.
Will get it from Toyota to be safe 2 quarts should do it it's only a 1300cc lol
Saw on a forum this..... "And according to my research here are some other options and alternatives to Toyota WS
Valvoline Maxx Life ATF
Kendall VersaTrans LV ATF (Made by Phillips 66 Lubricants) (This is what my local Firestone buys buy the 55-gallon drum to service automatic trasmissions)
AMSOIL -AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic ATF
Redline Synthetic Oil - D6 ATF
Schaeffer Oil - 205A Dexron® VI/Mercon® Automatic Transmission Fluid (Suitable for Aisin Warner JWS 3309, JWS 3324)
Pronto Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF Fluid (Distributed by National Pronto Association | Grapevine, TX 76051 | MADE IN THE USA)
Amalie Universal Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (Amalie Oil Co. Tampa, Fl.)
Martin Lubricants - SynGard™ Multi-Vehicle Dexron® VI and Mercon® LV Automatic Transmission Fluid
SC Fuels - Multi Performance 500 MVP Universal ATF
Super Tech DEXRON VI Automatic Transmission Fluid
Chevron Havoline Synthetic ATF Multi-Vehicle Dexron-VI
And if your in Australia, Nulon - Full Synthetic Multi Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid.
Aisin ATF0WS - ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid; WS-World Standard"
Sure, if you've heard going with different ATF fluids could cause problems, go the safe route and use the Toyota stuff. I've just never seen the need to buy the manufacturer brand for vehicle fluids. I've gotten away with using quality aftermarket brands for 35 years. On the Toyota forums, people swear by using only Toyota red coolant. When I bought my 4runner, it had Prestone green in it and I've kept it that way. Prestone green is perfectly fine. The key is to do regular coolant renewals regardless of the type of coolant you're using.
Maybe the way they are manufacturing vehicles now, it's becoming necessary to use the specialized fluids the manufacturer produces. I don't know. I worked on my girlfriend's little BMW Z3 convertible and changed the differential gear oil. I think a quart of the special gear oil BMW sells was like $30. I can get a whole gallon of a quality 80w-90 gear oil at a auto parts store for less than that but I bought the BMW gear oil just to be safe.
Happy Wrenching!
Tim, thanks for yet another very helpful, detailed video. That funnel looks to be the ideal size / height. Might you have a link to it too? Guessing maybe 16 to 18" tall... Thanks!
That funnel is just a standard automatic transmission funnel. You can find one just like it at any auto parts store, or if you prefer, order it online.
I have a 2005 Highlander V6 3.3. What is your opinion on removing the transmission pan so you can actually change out the filter. The car has only had the transmission fluid changed out once and I just recently bought it used with 125,000 miles on it.
That’s pretty low mileage and if the transmission fluid was serviced at least once, we don’t think the filter would require replacing, but it is good to do for piece of mind if you don’t know the maintenance history. If you’re dropping the pan to clean up the magnets in the bottom of the pan, then you will be able to identify if there are any significant sized particles that could indicate the health of the transmission and if you’re dropping the pan, you might as well replace the filter since you’re in there.
- Sean
Hey Tim I recently bought a 96 4runner with 171K miles, but the fluid has never been changed, should I do a fluid flush or should I leave it alone? The car shifts fine but the fluid is a bit dark.
Hey Cesar, it's a hard call with that many miles on that fluid. I DEFINITELY would not recommend a full flush. The most I would do is a drain and refill of the pan but even a drain and refill might be risky. What I do know is the lubricating properties of that fluid broke down a long time ago unless the vehicle was never driven on any grades and stayed in the flat lands it's whole life.
Sounds like I should just drive it as is until the tranny dies. Thanks!
Great video. Do you have to change the transmission filter too??
Glad you like the video. Changing the filter isn't necessary unless you suspect the trans was seriously abused and never got fluid changes allowing sludge particles to develop and partially clog up the filter media. The filters are a fine mesh strainer rather than what most consider a filter with some type of paper material that clogs easier over time. The filters in these rigs could last forever provided the trans receives regular fluid exchanges.
@@TimmyTheToolman oh ok!! Thank you so much!! Great help!!
@@HowardSprague116 You're very welcome.
I own a 2002 4Runner SR5 4WD. Love your videos and have been able to keep up all the maintenance myself with the help of your videos. Just wanted to ask if you had any experience with the fault code P0770. I flushed my transmission fluid and made the switch over to the Toyota Coolant a couple months ago and it brought up that code. According the FSM it’s a Shift E Solenoid fault. So I bought an OEM one and swapped it out, made sure the valve body was clean, inspected all the harnesses and changed the filter. I even shot the wires with my multimeter just in case. None of the magnetics in the pan had anything on them either. Haven’t had any shifting problems but my A/T oil temp is on the high side. I’ve researched all the forums I could get my hands on and haven’t found anything useful. Just thought I’d leave a comment just in case someone else in my same situation. Any insight would be appreciated!
We have not tried to diagnose a P0770 code yet. What you tried so far sounds right to me. When you say your trans fluid temp is on the high side, what temps are you seeing and in what conditions? Was your fluid in really bad shape when you did that flush?
When I did the flush it wasnt burnt but it was on the darker side. Not sure when it was changed last (bought it about 2 years ago with 190k miles)I just drove back to Vegas from LA. When I have the gas pedal engaged or cruise control set my temps stayed normal (a/t temp: 195ish coolant: 195ish) but when I would coast without pressing the gas pedal my a/t temp would sky rocket to 280-310. My coolant stayed the same the entire time. As soon I pressed the gas pedal again it would drop back down immediately to about 210 and get lower and lower until it reached 195.
@@ccrook12 Wow, you're seeing some crazy high numbers. Normal cruising temps for your automatic trans should be between around 130-170 unless you're climbing a grade or towing. The ambient temps can affect it so if the weather is really hot, your trans temp will run higher as a result because the cooling capacity of the air running through the cooling fins reduces. You would only see high 200's if you're climbing up a long sustained grade and you never pull over to give your rig a break. To clarify, these temp problems happened after you did the flush? Before the flush there were no temp issues?
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes, I didn’t have any issues before I did the flush. That’s when the P0770 fault showed up.
@@ccrook12 Ok, this is what I think happened. It sounds like the previous owner(s) never changed the fluid or maybe only once. Because of the abuse of not renewing the fluid regularly, sludge deposits were allowed to build up inside the transmission. ATF has very good detergent qualities to it. When you do a full flush all that new fluid is going to start working on those deposits and some of them are going to break free and be free-floating. Those deposits could become lodged in the narrow fluid passageways in the valve body and then starve the trans of fluid. It's for this reason that I never recommend somebody do a full flush on a trans with an unknown service history and with fluid that looks dark and smells burnt. It's safer to do it slowly by doing a series of drain and refills of the pan over thousand miles. What I tell people is do a drain and refill of the trans pan timed with an engine oil and filter change. At the next engine oil and filter change, do another drain of the trans pan and follow it up with another drain and refill after a 3rd engine oil change. This gets the fluid in good shape but is a safer method than doing it all at one time.