I'm currently carrying this exact job out but have an issue. For some reason I cannot get my disc rotor back on one side, it seems the handbrake cable is too tight and is engaging the shoe system even though the handbrake is obviously off and the adjuster is backed right off?
Sounds like the shoes meed shifted about to get the rotor/disc on. Jiggle them about to see if you can get them better centred. you can get more slack on the cable by adjusting from behind the handbrake too but I would only do that as a last resort. Sounds more like something not quite in the right place and needs shifted into place.
@@orbitaaltube I'll give it another shot today and see if I can get a bit more from the cable. It's on nearside trailing shoe that connects to the handbrake cable itself forcing rotation, which as a result is making the upper conjoining plate rest on the lever and not to the shoe lip like it should. I'll keep digging my fingers are killing me!
@@orbitaaltube I backed the handbrake off and pulled on the cables at the brakes to slacken the whole system off. I started over with the adjuster star screws and started winding those up until it gripped on both sides, then ran them back off a bit. Took the handbrake a tiny bit at the lever and the results are amazing, like a new handbrake. Thanks for the guidance.
I'll be attempting to change the shoes on my Corolla tomorrow evening on my driveway, -4c where I'm based in Ireland so should be fun! Thankfully my back plates aren't rusted so that makes it a bit easier I hope, Thank you for this video
@@orbitaaltube ah the difference is chalk and cheese, your tips worked a treat, I had to change the lot as the back plates were there from new, took ages to break the hubs free as there was 17yrs of rust an dirt holding them on
It's sort of a balancing act. Best to tighten it up with handbrake off and keep rotating the drum until it gets to the point where it won't turn any longer. Then you know that it is too tight. You then rotate the screw in the opposite direction to loosen the drum slightly. This will mean that with the handbrake off that the drum can rotate freely but that the handbrake will engage nicely when you pull the handbrake as it doesn't have far to travel. Most important part is to test it after adjustment by trying to push the car on flat ground. It if doesn't roll then it's a good sign that it's adjusted correctly. Then try again on a hill to check that the car does not roll back.
Makes sense. I was curious to know your way. Great job there! I have another question. Maybe you can help. I wrote this thread today because I need to be certain I’ll do the right thing. Could you give it a look and het back to me? Ot would be much appreciated. www.corollaforum.com/threads/rear-disc-brakes-with-hand-brake-shoes.13897/
Still watching your video. Great work! I am a little lost because of little information. I have a question. How can the dust plate hold the caliper bracket without a cast iron support? Second question. Could I adapt that dust plate to a EE111 Corolla with a 42305-12090 sub assy carrier? I cannot confirm that the distance between the hub bolts (sub assy carrier) is the same between rear E12 and E11. Do you know if the are compatible? If so I will buy the dust plate you used and adapt it to the E11 hub. Thanks
@@djfrankieflowers Cant help with mixing and matching I just work with OEM setups myself. Dust plate is usually something very filmsy but on these corollas its actually quite thick steel to allow the caliper carrier to bolt to it. Its why they are expensive compared to other brands. As for compatability between E11 and E12 I have no idea bud. If you get onto the corolla facebook groups such as corolla club uk or ireland someone there might be able to help.
Yes the safety option is to do this on flat ground and put chocks of some sort beside the wheels (I used concrete blocks from a builders yard). That stops the car rolling. Put the car in 1st year as it provides the most engine resistance.
I’ve just done this job on a Toyota Corolla 2003 station wagon. But the handbrake leaver goes up pretty far before it brakes properly. I’ve adjusted the screws like you did in this video.
Is the rear backing plate neccessary? My parking brake seized and when I got the rotor out then the 2 pieces with metal clip that holds the brakes in place fell out. They seem to be mounted to the backing plate where it has rusted and just goes straight through. Without anything holding the brakes, they were protruding so I couldn't get rotate the hub. But it feels weird that the brakes are reliant on the backing plate which is prone to rusting away.
Yes they are necessary on this model. The backing plates on these also hold the caliper bracket in place and are an integral part of the braking system.
I'm having an issue where i fit the brake rotor onto the hub an it barley goes in , on brake shoe tips to the side and the other sticks out preventing me from fitting the rotor if i move around the brake shoes(they move kinda easy even tough i've fitted the pins ) i can put on the brake rotor covering 2 shoes but it won't move
You need to back off the adjuster cog then. It's the bolt at the bottom with a cog attached. If you adjust this the shoes will retract to allow the drum to move freely. You then need to tighten it up again through the hole in the drum as per the end of the video to make sure the handbrake engages properly.
Have a look on eBay for new backing plates for e12. Note for tsport there is no aftermarket available. The only backing plates available are for the 258mm disc on the smaller engined cars such as 1.4 and 1.6 petrol. For the tsport and d4d guys it's a 279mm disc on the rear. So to make the aftermarket backing plates work you just fit the smaller 258mm discs to tsport. Otherwise you have to buy backing plates off main dealer.
@Orbital Tube Hi, very informative video. I have same car 2005 Toyota corolla .. looking for the rear left backing plate.. from UK . May I please know where can I get the backing plate.. if possible drop the link. I've tried few in online doesn't fit good while mounting the brake caliper.. Thank you..
@@mamidisaikrishna9507 this is the link to the one I used made by klokkerholm. It only fits cars with a 258mm rear disc. You need to check the diameter of your rear disc to make sure it will fit. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corolla-Estate-Hatch-Brake-Disc-Shield-Splash-Panel-Rear-Left-/202839825948?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Just done this job on my corolla - genuinely couldn’t have done it without your video. Brilliant step by step walkthrough. Can’t thank you enough!
No probs mate
مرحبا كورلا اي موديل سيارتك
Best toyota hybrid rear brake tutorial I’ve seen. Great job thanks.
You are welcome
Very good videos I've had my red T-sport since 2016 so a lot of what you've done I got on my to do list especially those shifter bushes...
I'm currently carrying this exact job out but have an issue. For some reason I cannot get my disc rotor back on one side, it seems the handbrake cable is too tight and is engaging the shoe system even though the handbrake is obviously off and the adjuster is backed right off?
Sounds like the shoes meed shifted about to get the rotor/disc on. Jiggle them about to see if you can get them better centred. you can get more slack on the cable by adjusting from behind the handbrake too but I would only do that as a last resort. Sounds more like something not quite in the right place and needs shifted into place.
@@orbitaaltube I'll give it another shot today and see if I can get a bit more from the cable. It's on nearside trailing shoe that connects to the handbrake cable itself forcing rotation, which as a result is making the upper conjoining plate rest on the lever and not to the shoe lip like it should. I'll keep digging my fingers are killing me!
@@orbitaaltube I backed the handbrake off and pulled on the cables at the brakes to slacken the whole system off. I started over with the adjuster star screws and started winding those up until it gripped on both sides, then ran them back off a bit. Took the handbrake a tiny bit at the lever and the results are amazing, like a new handbrake. Thanks for the guidance.
super filmik., dokładna instrukcja
Thanks . Generally couldn’t of done that without you .
You are welcome
I'll be attempting to change the shoes on my Corolla tomorrow evening on my driveway, -4c where I'm based in Ireland so should be fun! Thankfully my back plates aren't rusted so that makes it a bit easier I hope, Thank you for this video
No bother, it was a very cold week last week, I'm in Ireland too. Makes a nice difference to have a good tight handbrake.
@@orbitaaltube ah the difference is chalk and cheese, your tips worked a treat, I had to change the lot as the back plates were there from new, took ages to break the hubs free as there was 17yrs of rust an dirt holding them on
Very informative and well made video!!
we have a Forester to change the back-plates.I'll try your method, thanks
Did you tighten the hand brake pad spring with the hand brake pulled in order the know when it would block the disc? Thanks
It's sort of a balancing act. Best to tighten it up with handbrake off and keep rotating the drum until it gets to the point where it won't turn any longer. Then you know that it is too tight. You then rotate the screw in the opposite direction to loosen the drum slightly. This will mean that with the handbrake off that the drum can rotate freely but that the handbrake will engage nicely when you pull the handbrake as it doesn't have far to travel. Most important part is to test it after adjustment by trying to push the car on flat ground. It if doesn't roll then it's a good sign that it's adjusted correctly. Then try again on a hill to check that the car does not roll back.
Makes sense. I was curious to know your way. Great job there! I have another question. Maybe you can help.
I wrote this thread today because I need to be certain I’ll do the right thing. Could you give it a look and het back to me? Ot would be much appreciated.
www.corollaforum.com/threads/rear-disc-brakes-with-hand-brake-shoes.13897/
Still watching your video. Great work! I am a little lost because of little information. I have a question. How can the dust plate hold the caliper bracket without a cast iron support? Second question. Could I adapt that dust plate to a EE111 Corolla with a 42305-12090 sub assy carrier? I cannot confirm that the distance between the hub bolts (sub assy carrier) is the same between rear E12 and E11. Do you know if the are compatible? If so I will buy the dust plate you used and adapt it to the E11 hub. Thanks
@@djfrankieflowers Cant help with mixing and matching I just work with OEM setups myself. Dust plate is usually something very filmsy but on these corollas its actually quite thick steel to allow the caliper carrier to bolt to it. Its why they are expensive compared to other brands. As for compatability between E11 and E12 I have no idea bud. If you get onto the corolla facebook groups such as corolla club uk or ireland someone there might be able to help.
I will keep digging. Thanks!
Great video ! When applying the hand beak shoes and new disc . Should I sue hand brake off and car in gear ? Thanks your time and great video
Yes the safety option is to do this on flat ground and put chocks of some sort beside the wheels (I used concrete blocks from a builders yard). That stops the car rolling. Put the car in 1st year as it provides the most engine resistance.
I’ve just done this job on a Toyota Corolla 2003 station wagon. But the handbrake leaver goes up pretty far before it brakes properly. I’ve adjusted the screws like you did in this video.
Sounds like it needs tightened a little more if the handbrake lever is going up too far.
Really good stuff doing my dads at the moment in also in NI :)
Fair play, helps to see how it all goes back together.
Very comprehensive, doing the same job but have a major rust problem and rounded off nuts 🙄
Yea a plumbers gas torch is a must for working on anything rusty, 6 point sockets and a breaker bar also make life a lot easier. Good luck.
Is the rear backing plate neccessary? My parking brake seized and when I got the rotor out then the 2 pieces with metal clip that holds the brakes in place fell out. They seem to be mounted to the backing plate where it has rusted and just goes straight through. Without anything holding the brakes, they were protruding so I couldn't get rotate the hub. But it feels weird that the brakes are reliant on the backing plate which is prone to rusting away.
Yes they are necessary on this model. The backing plates on these also hold the caliper bracket in place and are an integral part of the braking system.
@@orbitaaltube Thanks. Is it possible to do this job without the impact gun to install the lug stud back on?
Nice video I had ago today got the outer calliper off . But the 2 bolts that hold the caliper are super rusted on. Any suggestions to get them off
Heat from a gas torch, penetrating fluid, and hammering around the area to try and jolt the rust apart usually helps.
Great video, very helpfull. Keep it up!
you are welcome, glad it was useful.
bolt wrench size - 13 ?
Having some trouble putting the shoes back on, particularly the pins. Any advice?
I'm having an issue where i fit the brake rotor onto the hub an it barley goes in , on brake shoe tips to the side and the other sticks out preventing me from fitting the rotor if i move around the brake shoes(they move kinda easy even tough i've fitted the pins ) i can put on the brake rotor covering 2 shoes but it won't move
You need to back off the adjuster cog then. It's the bolt at the bottom with a cog attached. If you adjust this the shoes will retract to allow the drum to move freely. You then need to tighten it up again through the hole in the drum as per the end of the video to make sure the handbrake engages properly.
@@orbitaaltube ahh thanks for the quick response I’ll give it a go
@@orbitaaltube even tough I’ve took the cog back it didn’t help
@@orbitaaltube got it working thanks
Can you please send link to that backing plate?
Have a look on eBay for new backing plates for e12. Note for tsport there is no aftermarket available. The only backing plates available are for the 258mm disc on the smaller engined cars such as 1.4 and 1.6 petrol. For the tsport and d4d guys it's a 279mm disc on the rear. So to make the aftermarket backing plates work you just fit the smaller 258mm discs to tsport. Otherwise you have to buy backing plates off main dealer.
thank you verg much it was good the cheng and esy metod
how would u replace the same thing in the front?
Different setup in the front which is just a disc and pads so check out any tutorial from a corolla to see how it's done. Good luck
GOOD JOB MATE
You are welcome
What tourqe did you use on the bolts on rear of bearing please.
Hey Dave, I didnt use a spec for those - just tightened based on experience using the breaker bar.
@Orbital Tube Hi, very informative video. I have same car 2005 Toyota corolla .. looking for the rear left backing plate.. from UK . May I please know where can I get the backing plate.. if possible drop the link. I've tried few in online doesn't fit good while mounting the brake caliper..
Thank you..
What engine has your corolla got?
@@orbitaaltube1.4 d4d.. diesel car automatic Transmission. Thanks
@@orbitaaltube Toyota corolla 2005 Diesel Hatchback 1.4 D FWD --_E12_1364cc 66KW 90HP.. Could you please help me by sending the details.. Thank you..
@@mamidisaikrishna9507 this is the link to the one I used made by klokkerholm. It only fits cars with a 258mm rear disc. You need to check the diameter of your rear disc to make sure it will fit. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corolla-Estate-Hatch-Brake-Disc-Shield-Splash-Panel-Rear-Left-/202839825948?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
@@orbitaaltube Thank you for the information..
Can you tell me how to find the dust shield for corolla 2007 online?
What country are you from to understand which model you have?
@@orbitaaltube im from Ireland, looking for same pair for the rear
Hi
what socket size did you use for removing the four bolts going between the hub and axle? thank you :)
I have no idea. It was one of the sizes in my standard set.
UA-cam keeps unsubscribing me . Luckily found you !
Super
You are welcome
Diese video ist Perfeckt
You are welcome
You put that handbrake cable on way to easy, I spent half hour trying to get mine on, was worst part of the whole job.
Did you have the handbrake released while installing. If the handbrake lever is up inside the car they are a ballache to get back on.
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