I'd say that temp start button wasn't big enough, but seriously great video again Peter, and I'd say Gunther definitely was messing with the ecu and the green crusties are a growin inside
@@martinfinbarscully4924 it might not be a great conclusion but might just help someone & another commenter mentioned that he has changed ECU’s for this issue. I’d haven’t gotten the ECU replacement yet but fingers crossed I will 🤞🤞🤞
Thank you for posting this Peter - you get EVERY complicated job in Ireland !! Them ECU's are a known fault on Fords the Focus has it in the same place - maybe ok if you live in a HOT / DRY country - but water & electric's do not mix They also suffer from snapped wires from the ECU to the fuse box & direct to components - dont know if it is the (Peugeot wiring that has ALWAYS been as brittle as dry pasta ) flexing / vibrating / rubbing All ECU's should be INSIDE the car !!
@@colinblythe3710 that is a good comment & yes, you are correct they would be better inside the car. Quite a few a saying this is a relatively common failure on these ECUs. Cheers Colin 🙏🙏
great work at least you have something to go on now. change ecu and its very hard to diagnose ecu problems. i really enjoyed the video peter thanks for sharing
In the cars with an actual key, you put the key in, turn to pos 2, turn to the crank position 5 times in a row then back to pos 0 and remove key. Wait a minute then install key and start the car.
Re the no crank after fuel filter change Peter, ive a 61 yr old apprentice who did that when he was 60 , his names Mike Berry 😂😂😂, me 😂😂😂, i chuckled when i saw his small 😅, grey box , i know a few guys who would neaten that up , bang a fuse in line , n call it a fix 😂😂, hopefully you get to tge bottom of it , always nice when you see someones been in there before 👍
The wires and box with a start button looked like doc Brown started to build a time machine. I had a similar problem once, it had already had a starter motor, i spent a couple of hours and ended up asking the customer to send it off and getting it tested. The ecu apparently had no faults, i went back to see if i had missed anything, i never figured out what was wrong with it.
@@mechanicmatt871 hey Matt, that’s when I’m at right now and would like to get ECU replacement job. Just to prove for future reference. I hope things are going good for you 🤞🤞🤞🙏
Ford has so many modules that prevents the car to start . It only starts because of the bypass. The fuel control module can be at fault , the bcm can also cause it . Even a abs fault can prevent starting because the ecm doesnt know if the brakes work, you got a task with this one mate , Just truck on you will get there i have faight in you 😊😊
@@xxl531 I hoping to get the ECU replacement job, but haven’t as yet. My conclusion was that it is the ECU with no faults in any other module causing the P162F to be stored in it. I’ll let ye know either way 😉👍👍
Very interesting! Based on how the relay is energized (ECU) points to a bad ECU... However what if those 2v/4v readings at the relay aren't actually biased voltages? If you could have disconnected the pins directly from the ECU and measure what's actually going out I think it would have been definitive. I'm thinking what if there's a short between ECU and the relay and the +12v that should get out of the ECU goes into protection mode and gives you that low reading... I mean...a biased voltage on the ground side would make sens for the ECU to detect a fault, but the +12v line should be a 12v line... Great video! Awaiting for part 2👏
@@alexdragomirescu5084 now that’s a great comment Alex, and yes it make perfect sense. I must admit that I didn’t do any load testing on the harness for both control wire integrity. Brilliant food for thought as I haven’t got the repair as of yet 💪💪💪
@kennedysgarage3281 no problem! We all get distracted by over thinking situations. Many times a fresh pair of eyes can give a new approach. You do the same for us, so...🍻
@@timbo19751975 correct, but weirdly I mentioned this to the owner and he hadn’t ever seen the -40 and then when I looked it operating as expected. This also points me towards some kind of internal ECU failure especially after the holding box had been burst open like it was 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Most likely Pcm, just going through this with a Ford Everest Diesel, same system. I have 2.5v and 4.5v at pin 1&2 at the starter relay, KOEO. No crank, no codes. Will start if you bypass start relay. All inputs that Pcm needs to start car are there. Checked wiring, powers, grounds, calling Pcm. The OE manual will tell you what conditions are needed to start the car. Apparently not an uncommon issue on Fords with this system.
is it keyless entry , fords use the remote function module for the start button command to the engine ecu , not sure with the Kuga set up , the tpms runs with this too.
Had a fresh enough Kia suv in today with the usual rod-knock, Peter. Yoke has "a full service history" - I went to take the undertray off to drop the oil, no go - bolts all seized, never been opened in yonks. Had to melt the bolts through the plastic with a blowtorch to get it off. Air filter was like a zoo, about 2.5l of black oil came out & the oil filter was a gunked mess. Stupid design of the piston to rod connection aside (who thought that was a good idea baffles me) I'm wondering how many of these yokes failing are because the books stamped but the works skipped...? Hope ye didn't get blown away last night - here was wild. Just listening to the vid has that Ford bu-de-dum-bu-de-dum doin my head in from afar - was at a crashed Torino & a Kuga quarterpanel this week & had to listen to the yokes beepin away - shaddap, lol.
@@jamesward5721 so you didn’t stop working because of a breeze 😂😂😂 Me either worked away as normal & luckily didn’t get affected too much. A few ridge tiles gone but otherwise all was ok. Those Hyundai & Kia are awful yokes for the undertray bolts seizing in place & as you said only after 2 or 3 years. That kinda stuff adds on a bucket load of time 😬😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 Have an engine rebuild to do on that one next week, Peter - 4 pistons, 4 conrods, new hg & bolts. Everywhere else quoted her a new engine, I know it's just knackered rod/piston interface, will keep her bill reasonable. Dunno about the wind, but here's awash from the crazy rain we've had the last few days - it's an Ark we will need if it keeps up. My heart goes out to them who still don't have the ESB back - a pal who sprays lorries just a few miles away had no power until yesterday eve - with the yard rammed. :-) His head was melted.
@@antodenn381 I actually haven’t gotten the go ahead on this job yet but I would like to bring it to its conclusion. So fingers crossed I’ll get the repair 🤞🤞
There shouldn't be 3v on the relay signal circuit when the button is not pressed. The constant 3 volts is telling the ECU that you are trying to crank. Pull the relay leave and reset the code. If it clears then you know the 3v is wrong........ECU or wiring problem
Had a similar fault to this on a 15 plate focus with same engine, long story short it was a "sales" car and after unplugging to check ecu plug and wiggling loom under battery carrier it started.
@@simonedwards5401 code won’t clear in EOBD or manufacturer specific. But I didn’t load test both control wires, so I had better make sure to on the repair job . Good thinking & I appreciate it 👏👏👏
@@robevans8625 every diagnosis is a guessing game until you gather evidence on what’s right and wrong. So unfortunately on this one I thought it was going to be fast and easy, but didn’t work out that way. Hopefully I’ll get the ECU replacement and cloning as a part 2 🤞🤞
I'd say that temp start button wasn't big enough, but seriously great video again Peter, and I'd say Gunther definitely was messing with the ecu and the green crusties are a growin inside
@@martinfinbarscully4924 it might not be a great conclusion but might just help someone & another commenter mentioned that he has changed ECU’s for this issue. I’d haven’t gotten the ECU replacement yet but fingers crossed I will 🤞🤞🤞
Great bit of Ford engineering, putting the most sensitive/critical piece of electronics in the wheelarch, pure genius
@@martinfinbarscully4924 😂😂😂😂
I have to admit that, GOOOOD EPISODE!
yes, I have replaced PCM on kuga for this exact issue.
@@tas.es9 now that is a good comment and brilliant to know 🙏🙏
Thank you for posting this Peter - you get EVERY complicated job in Ireland !!
Them ECU's are a known fault on Fords the Focus has it in the same place - maybe ok if you live in a HOT / DRY country - but water & electric's do not mix
They also suffer from snapped wires from the ECU to the fuse box & direct to components - dont know if it is the (Peugeot wiring that has ALWAYS been as brittle as dry pasta ) flexing / vibrating / rubbing
All ECU's should be INSIDE the car !!
@@colinblythe3710 that is a good comment & yes, you are correct they would be better inside the car. Quite a few a saying this is a relatively common failure on these ECUs. Cheers Colin 🙏🙏
That’s a nice piece of electrical work
That fella should be an electrician 😂😂😂😂
Only joking
Tye has hands together
@@jamesdunican1750 😂😂😂 it worked & I suppose that was all he needed to get it up and running again 😬😬
great work at least you have something to go on now. change ecu and its very hard to diagnose ecu problems. i really enjoyed the video peter thanks for sharing
@@wackey3455 thank you Paddy I’m glad you liked it & hopefully I’ll get the repair 🤞🤞
In the cars with an actual key, you put the key in, turn to pos 2, turn to the crank position 5 times in a row then back to pos 0 and remove key. Wait a minute then install key and start the car.
@@boosteddiesel1834 ooohh, that is good information. I must try that for future reference 💪💪💪
Re the no crank after fuel filter change Peter, ive a 61 yr old apprentice who did that when he was 60 , his names Mike Berry 😂😂😂, me 😂😂😂, i chuckled when i saw his small 😅, grey box , i know a few guys who would neaten that up , bang a fuse in line , n call it a fix 😂😂, hopefully you get to tge bottom of it , always nice when you see someones been in there before 👍
The wires and box with a start button looked like doc Brown started to build a time machine.
I had a similar problem once, it had already had a starter motor, i spent a couple of hours and ended up asking the customer to send it off and getting it tested. The ecu apparently had no faults, i went back to see if i had missed anything, i never figured out what was wrong with it.
@@mechanicmatt871 hey Matt, that’s when I’m at right now and would like to get ECU replacement job. Just to prove for future reference. I hope things are going good for you 🤞🤞🤞🙏
Ford has so many modules that prevents the car to start . It only starts because of the bypass. The fuel control module can be at fault , the bcm can also cause it . Even a abs fault can prevent starting because the ecm doesnt know if the brakes work, you got a task with this one mate , Just truck on you will get there i have faight in you 😊😊
@@xxl531 I hoping to get the ECU replacement job, but haven’t as yet. My conclusion was that it is the ECU with no faults in any other module causing the P162F to be stored in it. I’ll let ye know either way 😉👍👍
Great bit of interesting information Peter 👍
@@stringle100 would have been nice to resolve it but I haven’t gotten the repair just yet, hopefully though 🤞🤞
Great bit of wiring
That lad should be an electrician only joking 😂😂😂
@@jamesdunican1750 it worked so fair play. Kept him going for a few weeks & is most likely delaying the ECU replacement 😬😬
Very interesting! Based on how the relay is energized (ECU) points to a bad ECU... However what if those 2v/4v readings at the relay aren't actually biased voltages? If you could have disconnected the pins directly from the ECU and measure what's actually going out I think it would have been definitive. I'm thinking what if there's a short between ECU and the relay and the +12v that should get out of the ECU goes into protection mode and gives you that low reading... I mean...a biased voltage on the ground side would make sens for the ECU to detect a fault, but the +12v line should be a 12v line... Great video! Awaiting for part 2👏
@@alexdragomirescu5084 now that’s a great comment Alex, and yes it make perfect sense. I must admit that I didn’t do any load testing on the harness for both control wire integrity. Brilliant food for thought as I haven’t got the repair as of yet 💪💪💪
@kennedysgarage3281 no problem! We all get distracted by over thinking situations. Many times a fresh pair of eyes can give a new approach. You do the same for us, so...🍻
Just as a FYI - the car is not going to do DPF regens correctly with a faulty ambient air temp sensor showing -40c, so that needs fixing also.
@@timbo19751975 correct, but weirdly I mentioned this to the owner and he hadn’t ever seen the -40 and then when I looked it operating as expected. This also points me towards some kind of internal ECU failure especially after the holding box had been burst open like it was 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Most likely Pcm, just going through this with a Ford Everest Diesel, same system. I have 2.5v and 4.5v at pin 1&2 at the starter relay, KOEO. No crank, no codes. Will start if you bypass start relay. All inputs that Pcm needs to start car are there. Checked wiring, powers, grounds, calling Pcm. The OE manual will tell you what conditions are needed to start the car. Apparently not an uncommon issue on Fords with this system.
@@mrblonde2013 other commenters are saying it is quite a common issue also. So fingers crossed I’m right, I’ll will let you know 😉👍👍👍
Another great vlog Peter, your nearly as good as sandy Anderson for the parts twos... Hahahaha...
@@larkehoe6716 part 2s keep people on the edge of their seats 😂😂😂😂
is it keyless entry , fords use the remote function module for the start button command to the engine ecu , not sure with the Kuga set up , the tpms runs with this too.
@@mike-s8n8y interesting, that is something to look at before fitting the ECU 💪💪
Had a fresh enough Kia suv in today with the usual rod-knock, Peter. Yoke has "a full service history" - I went to take the undertray off to drop the oil, no go - bolts all seized, never been opened in yonks. Had to melt the bolts through the plastic with a blowtorch to get it off. Air filter was like a zoo, about 2.5l of black oil came out & the oil filter was a gunked mess.
Stupid design of the piston to rod connection aside (who thought that was a good idea baffles me) I'm wondering how many of these yokes failing are because the books stamped but the works skipped...?
Hope ye didn't get blown away last night - here was wild. Just listening to the vid has that Ford bu-de-dum-bu-de-dum doin my head in from afar - was at a crashed Torino & a Kuga quarterpanel this week & had to listen to the yokes beepin away - shaddap, lol.
@@jamesward5721 so you didn’t stop working because of a breeze 😂😂😂
Me either worked away as normal & luckily didn’t get affected too much. A few ridge tiles gone but otherwise all was ok.
Those Hyundai & Kia are awful yokes for the undertray bolts seizing in place & as you said only after 2 or 3 years. That kinda stuff adds on a bucket load of time 😬😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 Have an engine rebuild to do on that one next week, Peter - 4 pistons, 4 conrods, new hg & bolts. Everywhere else quoted her a new engine, I know it's just knackered rod/piston interface, will keep her bill reasonable.
Dunno about the wind, but here's awash from the crazy rain we've had the last few days - it's an Ark we will need if it keeps up. My heart goes out to them who still don't have the ESB back - a pal who sprays lorries just a few miles away had no power until yesterday eve - with the yard rammed. :-) His head was melted.
Plz say there is a part two on the way 😊 👍👍
@@antodenn381 I actually haven’t gotten the go ahead on this job yet but I would like to bring it to its conclusion. So fingers crossed I’ll get the repair 🤞🤞
There shouldn't be 3v on the relay signal circuit when the button is not pressed. The constant 3 volts is telling the ECU that you are trying to crank. Pull the relay leave and reset the code. If it clears then you know the 3v is wrong........ECU or wiring problem
@@tomcurran65 good food for thought Tom. The car is back with the owner as it was, now I kinda want it back after reading some of yer thoughts 💪💪💪
Had a similar fault to this on a 15 plate focus with same engine, long story short it was a "sales" car and after unplugging to check ecu plug and wiggling loom under battery carrier it started.
Strange one will code erase In eobd mode ?
Did you manage to test the 2 control wires for starter relay ?
@@simonedwards5401 code won’t clear in EOBD or manufacturer specific. But I didn’t load test both control wires, so I had better make sure to on the repair job . Good thinking & I appreciate it 👏👏👏
I wonder would that DTC need deleting with Ford IDS?
@@willV6F1 that is what RADE were using and unfortunately it didn’t help 😬😬😬
Check the fuelpump control module i think the startermotor is sending you on the wrong path
@@xxl531 good comment, I have quite a few different options now & appreciate that mate 🙏🙏🙏
Sounds like your guessing for 31 mins
You ever diagnose a car?
Sure, you are a genius and have a crystal ball to tell you whats wrong without any testing whatsoever...😂😂😂
Interesting one. I’m really interested if you get to the bottom of this Peter.
When in doubt process of elimination. Kenny defo isn’t guessing lol
@@robevans8625 every diagnosis is a guessing game until you gather evidence on what’s right and wrong. So unfortunately on this one I thought it was going to be fast and easy, but didn’t work out that way. Hopefully I’ll get the ECU replacement and cloning as a part 2 🤞🤞