An old man's car died in the McDonald's drive-through. After pushing him out of the lane I figured out that it was getting no fuel. I diagnosed a dead fuel pump, and he said that was his third dead fuel pump in 18 months. But I also noticed on the computer that the car was showing only 10 volts when running. I replaced the fuel pump and his car ran again, but I also knew that the low voltage could be the reason the fuel pumps were dying. The very first thing I checked for voltage drop was from the battery post to the battery clamp, and there were my 4 volts, basically two volts per post. I removed the clamps and found both posts coated with something like varnish. I cleaned them and boom, 14 volts when the engine was running. Hopefully that will keep the new fuel pump from burning out fast like the previous ones. By the way, I'm a DIYer who learned voltage drop testing on this channel (along with most of everything else I know about cars).
that's called low voltage burnout. as the voltage decreases, current consumed increases causing premature wear. also why it is not recommended to keep cranking the starter when the battery is low. if you ever see a car keep blowing bulbs there could also be a similar issue. great job helping the old dude out!
Retired electrical engineer. Your explanation is spot on. Ohms law says it takes 1 volt to push 1 amp through 1 ohm. Every connection, piece of wire and anything else between two points is potential resistance. The rusty terminal caused the extra resistance in this circuit. The conservation of energy law says that energy cannot be destroyed, just transferred. With resistance, its's transferred to heat. As the temperature on that rusty terminal was raised, the resistance got worse and made the voltage drop worse until the point where there wasn't enough voltage to start the car. We saw this on the Honda battery terminal in your last video when you "let the smoke out". Again, spot on, perfectly explained and easily understood..... When your body gives out from working on cars, you should teach......🙂
Fully agreed! I, too gave up mechanics to teach at a mechanic's school. Did it for 18 yrs. Let me clarify Ohm's Law: Volts= Amps X Resistance. So, 2 volts will not push 2 amps of current thru 2 ohms resistance. Electricity is so easy, once you know and fully understand how it works, but it is a total mystery if you don't understand it.
Can't believe whoever went through the hassle to change that battery didn't take 2 minutes to clean visible rust/ corrosion off the clamp and cable. Also can't believe anybody else does a better job of explaining electrical diagnosis and trouble shooting than you do. Thanks and keep it up!
This is exactly why my headlights were flickering on my 2011 Silverado. Bad negative terminal at the battery. After a round of UA-cam voltage drop lessons, I narrowed it down and replaced the terminal end. Fixed the problem, and gave myself confidence that “If you can do it, I can do it.”
@@chuy1674 The battery terminal ends on those trucks are enclosed so you can’t even see the green puss taking over the cable inside. I couldn’t see it until I cut the cable off. But I figured it out with a multimeter and SMA lessons.
I had a voltage drop from battery hitting radiator and loosing the acid. Lots of soldering to repair the wire harness under the radiator. Used a lot of baking soda as well.
I really like this channel. 1 - you cover the essentials of being a mechanic in the rust belt. 2 - you cover what is involved in diagnosing and fixing modern cars. As you said once, it is all about the data. Thankyou Mr O and Mrs O.
The video makes perfect sense, but the fact that they had the battery replaced to attempt to fix this problem without cleaning the terminals is crazy! Great job once again Eric!
Great demonstration! I typically teach a maximum of 0.1v per connection and 0.1v for every meter of battery cable. Never to exceed 0.5v for the entire insulated circuit or entire ground circuit..This only applies to high current circuits such as starter and alternator testing. I'll bet on that car if you cranked it for 15 seconds in clear flood mode you would be able to "see" a hot connection with a thermal camera. 1volt times 100amps is 100watts. That's got to warm up something...
In aviation, a 0.5V drop applies to any circuit carrying power not just the big ones. The tables in AC 43.13-1b go down to at least 22AWG. They also differentiate between continuous and intermittent loads. They allow a 1V drop for intermittent loads.
disable fuel/spark and crank until something emits smoke.... 🤪 even if manually via starter relay jumping. wait I would never do such a thing and have never( yeah right, look for smoke first, then troubleshoot second)
One the days when I am feeling old, I point the FLIR camera at it after cranking the engine, and look for the hot spots. The voltage drop check is still more accurate and cheaper, though. I bought the silly thing to test cooling systems and catalytic converters, but ended up using it for electrical faults. Hotspot in a fuse box? Boom. Found it. At least it wasn't a total waste of money.
I learned voltage drop when I was in trade school. That was a long time ago. (1984), Over the past 40 years I've only had a handful of times when it would have come in handy, but of course, for the most part I worked at new car dealerships. I'm semi retired now and I work on old rusty junk. These refresher courses on voltage drop will come in handy. Thank you.
New car dealerships typically see cars that are less than 5 years old. The built-up resistance usually follows after more years have passed. Independent shops see them all the time because they work on a range of old & new cars.
I always like your electrical and voltage drop videos, using the long screw driver to get to a hard spot, I never would have thought of that. Don't ever think we get tired of them, we don't, we always learn something.
A most eloquent and thorough articulation of voltage drop consequences and testing. Well done, as always, Eric. Best wishes for continued success from Florida.
Man you have been giving some really good advice on electrical faults in the last couple of videos THANK YOU Mr. O. for your community service really helpful to the DIYers & me (retired spanner spinner).
Nothing like a professional who knows what he is doing. Based on the equipment Eric uses, I spent the money on a used meter like his. It has kept me out of trouble several times. Thanks for the great video.
Eric, a great tutorial. One of the additional challenges of looking for the trouble spot is finding a way to probe a connection point and the connected conductor. Over the years my collection of DVM probes with weapon sharp edges and a variety of file sharpened back probes has filled a shoe box. Surface oxidation of a connector or exposed conductor can be an additional challenge. BTW the insulation piercing adjustable needle probes made by Pomona are wonderful. I always seal the pin holes in wire insulation with liquid electrical tape afterwards. As you aptly pointed out ,every mechanical interface in a circuit is a potential failure point . Be thankful you don’t have a boat that is used in a salt water environment. Every connection point is a potential trouble spot. It’s beginning to look like this is the reason why the electrical system in the MV Dali container ship failed at a most inappropriate time. Dude, you are a wonderful instructor . With all the electronics in cars these days , an individual with a good basic understanding of electronics and electricity will be a superior automotive diagnostic tech.
Mr O, you are a FANTASTIC Teacher!!! I wish I knew how to do voltage drop testing when I was working as a mechanic It would have come in VERY handy!!! And you explain it clearly and concisely and in a way that’s easy to understand!! Thank you for sharing your expertise with us!!
@@truthsmiles You really touched on 'it' there. Remember the door flying off the Boeing 737? The plane was taken off their 'over water' flight routes because of continued cabin pressure warnings. The aircraft was talking but no one was listening.
I really learn a lot from watching your videos and you never let me down. Always interesting and informative. The only thing that would make it over the top would be a cameo of Mrs. O 😂 Great channel!
I think that junkyard paint on the light is telling a story. Perhaps one like that's how the body shop put it back together after it got hit in the front end.
This is how i fixed my son's car. Battery kept going dead. I knew it was a draw from some where. Watch a few of your other videos on voltage drop, current draw, etc. Knowing what circuits had full time power was a big help. Found the draw. What able to isolate the components. Found the problem. Thanks you for your help and breaking it down Barney style.
“Meow cameo got the snub!”-Luna Had same issue on the homeless guy’s Dodge van I put the WP in last Xmas. Got there to do the WP and he says it won’t start. Knee jerk thought was a bad starter until looking at the crusty aftermarket clamp type terminals. Had enough wire on the Pos to cut it back an inch to clean wire and cleaned and greased the terminals and blammo, Bob’s your mother’s brother. Bout an hour delay starting the WP, which was an SoB… By God’s grace no broken bolts! Thx for the therapy! ❤
Eric, you are so right when you say that everything imposes a bit of voltage drop. One item that has to do this is the fuse. It relies on having a certain resistance so that when the current gets abnormally large the wire in the fuse will heat up and eventually melt. You often see a largish fuse (e.g. 15A) protecting a circuit taking (normally) only a few tens of milliamps. The fuse size is chosen to protect the wiring and also ensure that normal voltage drop across it is small so as not to affect operation.
I learned the hard way too that checking every connection point also applies when checking for opens/shorts. I couldn't figure out why one of my TPS on the throttle body was showing 0v but everywhere in the circuit was 5v. Then by accident I pressed really hard on the connecter and the voltage came back, some how there was a failure from the back of the wire in the connector to the front of the pin, lol. I checked the voltage everywhere except the place it mattered, lol.
Thanks for the education Eric I became a pretty damn good troubleshooter from watching you from the early days before dollar store glasses for both of us. Your explanations of electrical troubleshooting wasen't lost on me Thanks from an OG
Aftermarket systems installed on vehicles can cause a LOT of voltage drop problems in fleet vehicles. Then they became our problems when they didn't work right. Or when a three axle tractor with trailer had a problem with the OEM instrumentation not reading correctly and for several months the problem was chased. When the vehicle came in one day the dash voltmeter read in the 11 volt range. With the engine running, one of the two group 31S batteries read 14.2 volts the other read 12.4. Both batteries had individual positive and negative cables going to the starter. When the cables were checked by pulling on the cables near the lugs (terminal) at the starter one cable pulled out of its lug. It took a little work to fix it but once repaired both batteries read 13.5 volts, no more voltage drop and that repair eliminated all the electrical problems in the vehicle's instrumentation. YA. VOLTAGE DROPS ! ! Good one Mr. O!
You should do a whole series (over time) starting with a video like this of basics. And create a whole playlist about it. You have so many videos over the years and I know you have covered it all but having it in a playlist would make it easier for new people to find it. So many of your stuff has great information but it gets lost in the tons and tons of diag videos you have. Love the channel been watching since 2015 keep it going. Also make more cooking videos on your other channel we love it too!😊
So I put this video to use today. I was driving my 2007 Mazda 6 Wagon. I have a power adapter in the 12 volt outlet that also displays voltage. It was showing low as usual. When I got home, I checked the battery voltage from positive to negative, and it was 13.7V. I checked from positive to the shock tower, and it was 13.2V. Then I checked from the middle of the negative post to the shock tower, and there was my missing 0.5V. Thank you for the reminder, Eric.
Eric, I just fixed and issue on my boat, by knowing how to check for voltage drop from watching your other videos, this one is great for learning, keep it up.
I worked in electronics for many years do bench repair of PC boards and used this troubleshooting method all the time. Worked with many techs that would shotgun and sometimes finally got a fix.
I appreciate the in depth explanations that you give in your videos. Voltage drop is a major problem for those of us in the rust belt. Finding it is easier if people follow your instructions, easy as that! Whoever thought that fender wells were a place for batteries is misguided!
I've been in this business a long time. You explain your troubleshooting, which is pretty clear and easy to follow. I like watching your videos. I've learned some things that have made it easy for me. Thanks for the video
As a bench tech for many years, I can watch Eric and see he understands. Not here to watch him beat rust ( ok its still corrosion) I did it for many years alone after my business partner died, before youtubers , so nobody to get new ideas or techniques from. You do something so often the same way, you start to think that's it or don't want to experiment with something new. This is a good one to watch over his shoulder.
Thank you for this informative video, my 98 c5 died and this explained where to find my drop. New battery and different headlights no more voltage drop
Using voltage drop troubleshooting I was able to identify a mostly burned up alternator B+ cable that was affecting charging, it had destroyed 4 alternators that had been replaced by other shops. 2010 Odyssey. I also use a load-pro lead set on my Fluke. Thank you for always reminding us of the basics.
Thank you for taking your time to explain the causes and reasons for all of your repairs......I either learn something new, a better or new way to do the repair or diagnosis, or am reinforced in my process......You are an asset to you tube and entertaining to boot!
I got it the first time, but hey--this is good stuff and bears repeating. It's going to be instrumental in getting my old rusty diesel truck back on the road, or at least in farm service. Thanks for showing how practical and necessary and simple it is.
Great demonstration of voltage drop testing, Eric. I've been preaching voltage drop and load testing circuits for years, most brush it off and don't care. I truly believe about 90% of the bad calls technicians make, is lack of understanding the fundamentals and performing voltage drop/load testing of circuits/components.
An old man's car died in the McDonald's drive-through. After pushing him out of the lane I figured out that it was getting no fuel. I diagnosed a dead fuel pump, and he said that was his third dead fuel pump in 18 months. But I also noticed on the computer that the car was showing only 10 volts when running. I replaced the fuel pump and his car ran again, but I also knew that the low voltage could be the reason the fuel pumps were dying. The very first thing I checked for voltage drop was from the battery post to the battery clamp, and there were my 4 volts, basically two volts per post. I removed the clamps and found both posts coated with something like varnish. I cleaned them and boom, 14 volts when the engine was running. Hopefully that will keep the new fuel pump from burning out fast like the previous ones. By the way, I'm a DIYer who learned voltage drop testing on this channel (along with most of everything else I know about cars).
that's called low voltage burnout. as the voltage decreases, current consumed increases causing premature wear. also why it is not recommended to keep cranking the starter when the battery is low. if you ever see a car keep blowing bulbs there could also be a similar issue. great job helping the old dude out!
Awesome!!! 👍
Ive made thousands of dollars using simple good techniques i picked up from watching sma
@@user-fw8kt9dq9m I think that only applies to motors or possibly solenoids but on a bulb circuit it's simple V= IR there's no back EMF or whatever
Me too I learned a lot from this guy
Retired electrical engineer. Your explanation is spot on. Ohms law says it takes 1 volt to push 1 amp through 1 ohm. Every connection, piece of wire and anything else between two points is potential resistance. The rusty terminal caused the extra resistance in this circuit. The conservation of energy law says that energy cannot be destroyed, just transferred. With resistance, its's transferred to heat. As the temperature on that rusty terminal was raised, the resistance got worse and made the voltage drop worse until the point where there wasn't enough voltage to start the car. We saw this on the Honda battery terminal in your last video when you "let the smoke out". Again, spot on, perfectly explained and easily understood..... When your body gives out from working on cars, you should teach......🙂
👍
He teaches with every video he posts!
Fully agreed! I, too gave up mechanics to teach at a mechanic's school. Did it for 18 yrs. Let me clarify Ohm's Law: Volts= Amps X Resistance. So, 2 volts will not push 2 amps of current thru 2 ohms resistance. Electricity is so easy, once you know and fully understand how it works, but it is a total mystery if you don't understand it.
@@61rampy65lol Your both correct! 1 v = 1 amp x 1 ohm, and 2 v does not = 2 amps x 2 ohms. 😮😂
@@61rampy65 Electricity is easy in DC... things get a little bit more complex in AC. Luckily not an issue in the car world.
Can't believe whoever went through the hassle to change that battery didn't take 2 minutes to clean visible rust/ corrosion off the clamp and cable. Also can't believe anybody else does a better job of explaining electrical diagnosis and trouble shooting than you do. Thanks and keep it up!
A hack. There are so many out there. It’s scary.
agree 100%
Guess who pays for a new battery that they did not even need?!!
Why get paid once when you can get paid twice!
It was completely accessible while the headlight was off.
This is exactly why my headlights were flickering on my 2011 Silverado. Bad negative terminal at the battery. After a round of UA-cam voltage drop lessons, I narrowed it down and replaced the terminal end. Fixed the problem, and gave myself confidence that “If you can do it, I can do it.”
@@chuy1674 The battery terminal ends on those trucks are enclosed so you can’t even see the green puss taking over the cable inside. I couldn’t see it until I cut the cable off. But I figured it out with a multimeter and SMA lessons.
I had a voltage drop from battery hitting radiator and loosing the acid. Lots of soldering to repair the wire harness under the radiator. Used a lot of baking soda as well.
Well done .
Eric has a better understanding of electrical diagnosis than many electricians I have worked with.
Being an electrician is about knowing code not electricity.
most electricians don't know much electrical theory
Saturday with Mr. O is better than Saturday cartoons. You can learn so much from this UA-cam Channel.
HE IS THE BEST.
You always are methodical and use logic which is why we are all here, to see a master at his craft.
Amen
Thank you professor 🙏 🤗 got all that electrical message I will remember it.
I really like this channel. 1 - you cover the essentials of being a mechanic in the rust belt. 2 - you cover what is involved in diagnosing and fixing modern cars. As you said once, it is all about the data. Thankyou Mr O and Mrs O.
The video makes perfect sense, but the fact that they had the battery replaced to attempt to fix this problem without cleaning the terminals is crazy! Great job once again Eric!
Parts cannon strikes again!
Eric gets us to the answers by the shortest possible route. Love it!
I repair radiation treatment systems for a living and this is a very good refresher for anyone. You did an outstanding job on this.
It’s always fun to watch a pro at work.
I’m no electrical guy but I understood this video. The paper and marker made it easier to understand. Thanks Mr. Eric ! Keep up the good work ! 😁
Gotta love Dodge aka Stellantis for putting the battery in such a remarkably accessible position, aye? Thanks for the educational video, Eric!
nissan does it too.
@@sockmonkey3393both junk brands!
Great demonstration! I typically teach a maximum of 0.1v per connection and 0.1v for every meter of battery cable. Never to exceed 0.5v for the entire insulated circuit or entire ground circuit..This only applies to high current circuits such as starter and alternator testing. I'll bet on that car if you cranked it for 15 seconds in clear flood mode you would be able to "see" a hot connection with a thermal camera. 1volt times 100amps is 100watts. That's got to warm up something...
Smoke is always a good visual que ;-)
@@SouthMainAuto visual cue
In aviation, a 0.5V drop applies to any circuit carrying power not just the big ones. The tables in AC 43.13-1b go down to at least 22AWG. They also differentiate between continuous and intermittent loads. They allow a 1V drop for intermittent loads.
@@major__kong that's interesting
disable fuel/spark and crank until something emits smoke.... 🤪 even if manually via starter relay jumping. wait I would never do such a thing and have never( yeah right, look for smoke first, then troubleshoot second)
One the days when I am feeling old, I point the FLIR camera at it after cranking the engine, and look for the hot spots. The voltage drop check is still more accurate and cheaper, though. I bought the silly thing to test cooling systems and catalytic converters, but ended up using it for electrical faults. Hotspot in a fuse box? Boom. Found it. At least it wasn't a total waste of money.
They are an amazing tool you can see resistance
Your always so educational 😏.....its a nice refresher for those of us who have been mechanics for ages but forgot the basics. 😁
It is funny just how much I learn from every video that you put out. Keep them coming.
I learned voltage drop when I was in trade school. That was a long time ago. (1984), Over the past 40 years I've only had a handful of times when it would have come in handy, but of course, for the most part I worked at new car dealerships. I'm semi retired now and I work on old rusty junk. These refresher courses on voltage drop will come in handy. Thank you.
New car dealerships typically see cars that are less than 5 years old. The built-up resistance usually follows after more years have passed. Independent shops see them all the time because they work on a range of old & new cars.
Wow 1984....a long time ago...me too, us old school mechanics ....Yes the video was a good refresher....
I always like your electrical and voltage drop videos, using the long screw driver to get to a hard spot, I never would have thought of that. Don't ever think we get tired of them, we don't, we always learn something.
A most eloquent and thorough articulation of voltage drop consequences and testing. Well done, as always, Eric. Best wishes for continued success from Florida.
South Main Auto... Very well explained Eric. As always my friend.
A Master class! I am thankful you do not charge what your classes are worth! Thank you so much!
Man you have been giving some really good advice on electrical faults in the last couple of videos THANK YOU Mr. O. for your community service really helpful to the DIYers & me (retired spanner spinner).
Awsome!! 2 new videos in the same day!! Thanks!! Keep up the awesome job!!
Where’s Mrs. O? Always fun to watch you cower in her presence. 😂😂
Shade tree mechanic here.. You are the best teacher ever. You are a true dianostician of the mechanical world
So easy but people get it so wrong... I will never understand! But I guess that is what really sets shops like yours apart. "Knowing your craft".
Nothing like a professional who knows what he is doing. Based on the equipment Eric uses, I spent the money on a used meter like his. It has kept me out of trouble several times. Thanks for the great video.
Eric, a great tutorial. One of the additional challenges of looking for the trouble spot is finding a way to probe a connection point and the connected conductor. Over the years my collection of DVM probes with weapon sharp edges and a variety of file sharpened back probes has filled a shoe box. Surface oxidation of a connector or exposed conductor can be an additional challenge. BTW the insulation piercing adjustable needle probes made by Pomona are wonderful. I always seal the pin holes in wire insulation with liquid electrical tape afterwards. As you aptly pointed out ,every mechanical interface in a circuit is a potential failure point . Be thankful you don’t have a boat that is used in a salt water environment. Every connection point is a potential trouble spot. It’s beginning to look like this is the reason why the electrical system in the MV Dali container ship failed at a most inappropriate time. Dude, you are a wonderful instructor . With all the electronics in cars these days , an individual with a good basic understanding of electronics and electricity will be a superior automotive diagnostic tech.
Mr O, you are a FANTASTIC Teacher!!! I wish I knew how to do voltage drop testing when I was working as a mechanic It would have come in VERY handy!!!
And you explain it clearly and concisely and in a way that’s easy to understand!!
Thank you for sharing your expertise with us!!
As a 26 year veteran science teacher, that was one of the best most concise explainations of voltage drop I've seen! Great job Eric
Great refresher course. People always want the "fast fix" and need to realize the importance of voltage drop testing.
The irony is this IS the “fast fix” - this car has been giving problems for days if not weeks and Eric found the problem inside of an hour.
@@truthsmiles You really touched on 'it' there. Remember the door flying off the Boeing 737?
The plane was taken off their 'over water' flight routes because of continued cabin pressure warnings.
The aircraft was talking but no one was listening.
I really learn a lot from watching your videos and you never let me down. Always interesting and informative. The only thing that would make it over the top would be a cameo of Mrs. O 😂
Great channel!
I think that junkyard paint on the light is telling a story. Perhaps one like that's how the body shop put it back together after it got hit in the front end.
I would like to double-like this comment ;-)
Very informational video like most that you put on "the UA-cams". Keep up the great work
Great video keep up the good work Eric all of us DIYers all appreciate that information that we learn from you. 😊
This is how i fixed my son's car. Battery kept going dead. I knew it was a draw from some where. Watch a few of your other videos on voltage drop, current draw, etc. Knowing what circuits had full time power was a big help. Found the draw. What able to isolate the components. Found the problem. Thanks you for your help and breaking it down Barney style.
Glad to help 😊
The wire whisperer strikes again!!!
“Meow cameo got the snub!”-Luna
Had same issue on the homeless guy’s Dodge van I put the WP in last Xmas. Got there to do the WP and he says it won’t start. Knee jerk thought was a bad starter until looking at the crusty aftermarket clamp type terminals. Had enough wire on the Pos to cut it back an inch to clean wire and cleaned and greased the terminals and blammo, Bob’s your mother’s brother. Bout an hour delay starting the WP, which was an SoB… By God’s grace no broken bolts! Thx for the therapy! ❤
Thank you for all the knowledge my friend. You have a simple yet informative way of explaining that makes it easy to understand.
Eric, you are so right when you say that everything imposes a bit of voltage drop. One item that has to do this is the fuse. It relies on having a certain resistance so that when the current gets abnormally large the wire in the fuse will heat up and eventually melt. You often see a largish fuse (e.g. 15A) protecting a circuit taking (normally) only a few tens of milliamps. The fuse size is chosen to protect the wiring and also ensure that normal voltage drop across it is small so as not to affect operation.
I learned that lesson from one of Eric's videos.
I learned the hard way too that checking every connection point also applies when checking for opens/shorts. I couldn't figure out why one of my TPS on the throttle body was showing 0v but everywhere in the circuit was 5v. Then by accident I pressed really hard on the connecter and the voltage came back, some how there was a failure from the back of the wire in the connector to the front of the pin, lol. I checked the voltage everywhere except the place it mattered, lol.
You speak pretty good jibber jabber! I understood it perfectly. Thanks Mr O.
Thanks eric I have been turnning renches for 50 years and never under stood how to do voltage drops right !
My opinion is that you are the best teacher on the World Wide Web.
Love learning new skills on this channel. It’s freaking awesome
A very good lesson. Thanks, Eric.
Excellent walk-thru and very useful. Thanks for this!
Great basic troubleshooting techniques. So many take their best guess and fire the parts cannon.
Thanks for the education Eric I became a pretty damn good troubleshooter from watching you from the early days before dollar store glasses for both of us. Your explanations of electrical troubleshooting wasen't lost on me
Thanks from an OG
Thank you for your clear and thorough explanation Mr O. You are a great teacher.
Just watched Paul’s video and then yours popped up.
Have a great Saturday.
Master class in trouble shooting voltage drop. Thank you Professor O.
You are an amazing teacher Eric O
This and the two Honda videos are invaluable ( by which I mean there is no way to give it a greater value)
Thanks Eric, you always teach me something new. You are the older brother that some of us didn't have.
You are a master at his craft Mr O 🧐
To jest to za co szanuję Ciebie. Pokazujesz cały proces myślowy logicznie tłumaczysz co i jak bez zbędnego pitolenia. Pozdrawiam
Great video. Thanks for helping all of us understand it better!
Aftermarket systems installed on vehicles can cause a LOT of voltage drop problems in fleet vehicles. Then they became our problems when they didn't work right.
Or when a three axle tractor with trailer had a problem with the OEM instrumentation not reading correctly and for several months the problem was chased.
When the vehicle came in one day the dash voltmeter read in the 11 volt range. With the engine running, one of the two group 31S batteries read 14.2 volts the other read 12.4. Both batteries had individual positive and negative cables going to the starter. When the cables were checked by pulling on the cables near the lugs (terminal) at the starter one cable pulled out of its lug.
It took a little work to fix it but once repaired both batteries read 13.5 volts, no more voltage drop and that repair eliminated all the electrical problems in the vehicle's instrumentation. YA. VOLTAGE DROPS ! !
Good one Mr. O!
Thxs Eric some good info....You showed us in lasted video the cable exchange....Thxs again...
You should do a whole series (over time) starting with a video like this of basics. And create a whole playlist about it. You have so many videos over the years and I know you have covered it all but having it in a playlist would make it easier for new people to find it. So many of your stuff has great information but it gets lost in the tons and tons of diag videos you have. Love the channel been watching since 2015 keep it going.
Also make more cooking videos on your other channel we love it too!😊
Voltage drop videos never get old! Great video!
Every day is school day. Excellent diagnosis and explanation Dr O.
Thanks for sharing
Perfect!! 👍🏼
It’s crazy how that connection is robbing 1 Volt just bc it’s cruddy.🤯
That makes sense AND makes cents 💰 in saving us money with your techniques ! Thanks Eric .
👊🏼 🔥 💻 📈 💡
Again, I like your analogy of voltage as being a pressure difference...
So I put this video to use today. I was driving my 2007 Mazda 6 Wagon. I have a power adapter in the 12 volt outlet that also displays voltage. It was showing low as usual. When I got home, I checked the battery voltage from positive to negative, and it was 13.7V. I checked from positive to the shock tower, and it was 13.2V. Then I checked from the middle of the negative post to the shock tower, and there was my missing 0.5V. Thank you for the reminder, Eric.
Great explanation. Thanks for posting. Some kids these days could learn a lot from you!
That is one of the first thing I learned in auto repair. Several co-workers over the years never knew about it.
Eric, I just fixed and issue on my boat, by knowing how to check for voltage drop from watching your other videos, this one is great for learning, keep it up.
Great video using real life examples of troubleshooting fun electrical problems. Good work!!
Thank you for the educational video Mr Eric. I appreciate your time and trouble to bring us this
I do love how you explained voltage drop! Keep it up. Thanks
Thanks for the....explain. Learned much, as I always do the way you explain things. Thank You Mr O. So simple!!!
Thank you for the refresher
Glad to see the analog laptop and a brief "cat scan" by Luna. Haven't had a chance to apply this lesson yet, but I'll be ready when I do!
In prior years, my parts cannon solved the problem, eventually. Thanks for the video.
I worked in electronics for many years do bench repair of PC boards and used this troubleshooting method all the time. Worked with many techs that would shotgun and sometimes finally got a fix.
I saw your portable cat scan machine walk by. Informative video and thanks for the instruction.
I appreciate the in depth explanations that you give in your videos. Voltage drop is a major problem for those of us in the rust belt. Finding it is easier if people follow your instructions, easy as that! Whoever thought that fender wells were a place for batteries is misguided!
I've learned so many useful techniques for troubleshooting and repair from this channel that I feel as if I owe you some kind of tuition. Thanks!
Great video. I know it added a lot of time to this diagnosis so thank you for sharing.
I've been in this business a long time. You explain your troubleshooting, which is pretty clear and easy to follow. I like watching your videos. I've learned some things that have made it easy for me. Thanks for the video
As a bench tech for many years, I can watch Eric and see he understands. Not here to watch him beat rust ( ok its still corrosion) I did it for many years alone after my business partner died, before youtubers , so nobody to get new ideas or techniques from. You do something so often the same way, you start to think that's it or don't want to experiment with something new. This is a good one to watch over his shoulder.
Thank you Eric for dumbing the process to the basics. ❤
Underrated video. Thank you for reminding me. I would never use a connection that rusty though. Keep it clean.
You explain things very well and I have learned a great deal by watching your videos.
Keep em coming!
Thank you for your GOOD explanation. It makes sense now. Greetings from the Old Jarhead in WNC.
I really love when you guys mention and give credit to each others. That makes me happy. Thank you for mentioning @ScannerDanner.
Thank you for this informative video, my 98 c5 died and this explained where to find my drop. New battery and different headlights no more voltage drop
Using voltage drop troubleshooting I was able to identify a mostly burned up alternator B+ cable that was affecting charging, it had destroyed 4 alternators that had been replaced by other shops. 2010 Odyssey. I also use a load-pro lead set on my Fluke.
Thank you for always reminding us of the basics.
Thanks Eric. Your explanations are so clear, if a viewer doesnt understand voltage drop after this, they should perhaps reconsider their interrests.:D
Great Saturday morning coffee video, love all the electrical vids Eric. Have a great weekend 👍
Thank you for taking your time to explain the causes and reasons for all of your repairs......I either learn something new, a better or new way to do the repair or diagnosis, or am reinforced in my process......You are an asset to you tube and entertaining to boot!
I got it the first time, but hey--this is good stuff and bears repeating. It's going to be instrumental in getting my old rusty diesel truck back on the road, or at least in farm service. Thanks for showing how practical and necessary and simple it is.
Great demonstration of voltage drop testing, Eric. I've been preaching voltage drop and load testing circuits for years, most brush it off and don't care. I truly believe about 90% of the bad calls technicians make, is lack of understanding the fundamentals and performing voltage drop/load testing of circuits/components.
Thanks, I learned something today. I was going to ask about measuring OHMs but you answered my question.
Great teaching video. Thank you for all the work that goes into what you do. It is appreciated.