Відео

Awesome video brother hope you have time for some driving tips

You probably know this but for those who dont know, spring tuning should apparently be done on 100% fuel, cuz the spring value changes in the tune tab depending on how much fuel the car has, so if you tune the sprigns on 100% and then put 30% fuel, the spring values will change.

Do you have a tuning spreadsheet for this game?

How did you join a team? Like what’s the process did you contact them or what?

Griffin you should make the general driving tips video.

Im going to experiment with this style of tuning. Its similar to the "Soft spring - big bar" school of suspension setups in real life Makes me think of the quote "Any suspension will work if you dont let it"😂

Thanks very much for the guide! Though I am relatively new to Forza, and I am struggling to tune 2017 #92 Porsche RSR, the car skids on corner entry, I am trying to fix it without inducing a lot of understeer (I use controller, can be my driving problem xD)

i have like a slight understanding of bump and rebound but not really. under braking, front squats (bump) and rear extends (rebound). opposite for exit. i think softer is more oversteer and stiffer more understeer. only example i remember of it working is the fxxk in fm7. was super unstable under braking so i just jacked the rear rebound to almost max and it worked. my best guess as to why is it allowed the rear of the car to raise slower making it more stable. im sure people in your team know what it actually does but this is my understanding of it. -me when i comment before watching the whole video and you explain anti dive directly after

@ESVGriffin what does esv stand for

Hi Griffin you use default deadzones?

Sure, appreciate the video being new to forza Motorsports, this is helping. My only problem now is the gearing. Trying to stay with the pack is tough. I seem to lag. Playing with multiplayer live.

U suing controlller?

What about the 911 GT3 R?? I can’t get that thing to be competitive to save my life.

shit man i just raced with you in a nascar circuit . idk how you got that lap time on Daytona but hats off bro . your tune is waaaaay better lol GG

Very nice video, thx for all the explanations. I see dampers as a tuning for the springs. The springs makes your car soft/stiff and the dampers make your springs soft/stiff so to speak..

let me save u a whole hour.... "how to tune a gt car" slam everything your welcome

Can't fault your actual driving. Two questions though, do you run no assists? Can you drive first person without track limits and without that horrible emersion breaking driving line?

What I've collected from this vid. Tires: Base 28 PSI/ Raise front for more understeer/ Raise rear for more oversteer/ Keep the gap within .5 - 1.0 PSI/ - Gears: 6.10 FD to minimize rev bug. Optional/ Faster shift times rumored/ - 1st Gear. Launch gear? or Hairpin gear? Launch gear, aim for 60mph. 2nd gear. Around 85 mph. Aim for ~180 mph for final gear/ Use the HP telemetry data to identify the powerband/ - Camber: Base F 1.5 R 1.0 Increase both for mid-corner oversteer/ Unstable long corner exit... decrease rear camber/ Front has too much grip relative to rear... decrease front camber/ - Toe Usually leave alone Add .1 front toe for sharper or twitchy turn in/ Add .1 rear toe for mid to late corner rotation Ex. Grand Oak, Mugello. Helps the car point but scrubs/ Add -.1 rear toe for a more planted throttle/ Add -.1 front toe for less twitchy turn in/ Caster: Just run with 7/ - Roll Bars: Make or breaks how your car feels especially on corner exit/ Base 40/40 (keeps car planted on corner exit) or 40/30 or 40/1 or 38/15/ Higher front, more understeer/ Higher rear, more oversteer/ Car dependent/ Higher or lower roll bars together, affect overall softness/stiffness/ Lower, more sway/ Higher, less sway/ - Springs: Stiffer springs, more responsive overall, quicker turn in, more unstable, struggle over curbs/ Stiffer springs are better for higher compressions. Base - medium to soft spring rates. Around 450 to 600 lbs/in. GT, run slightly higher front spring/ Higher front, more turn in stability, easier to settle in corners. Factors of each car can decide otherwise/ If car is naturally understeery, stiffen rear springs/ Move in increments of 25/ Notes: Higher tire pressure helps with tire wear. Use 6th gear to fix data accuracy. Reset toe values. Running with a higher caster can affect camber values. Roll Bars felt in late mid corner to corner exit. Springs felt more in corner entry to early mid corner. - Ride height: Usually keep it minimized/ Raising front ride height can stabilize your car on corner entry/ If you want to avoid using negative toe (because it increases tire wear) then increase front ride height/ Affects mid corner speeds/ Helps with sweepers/ Raising rear ride height isn't ideal. Raise for more oversteer/ - Damping: Affects cars performance over curbs, affects behavior on turn-in and exit/ Base - 3.5 Bump, 11.3 Rebound/ Stiffer rear, more oversteer/ Stiffer front, more understeer/ Low bump, high rebound usually works/ - Roll Center Height Offset(secondary roll bars being used as the term): Low, more body roll, high range of motion/ High, less body roll, low range of motion/ Base 9.8(Max) overall Stiffer front, more understeer/ Stiffer rear, more oversteer/ - Anti-dive: Braking and corner entry/ Higher anti-dive, resisting downward front movement, more stability under Braking/ If light on corner entry, raise it (keeps more weight on rear tires because the front isn't dipping as much)/ Negative anti-dive, dips rapidly towards front, takes weight off rears, unstable braking on corner entry. Start with positive 25 - 50 base/ Anti-squat: Affects how quickly weight is shifted to the rear Lower, less resistance to shifting weight, more stability on throttle, low speed while turning, more weight on rear, takes weight off front tires, induces understeer, stability on corner exit. Base -50/ For more rotation or less understeer on throttle, raise it. Usually keep it negative. Can be positive. - Aero: More force pushing down on front/rear end of the car/ Max front, min rear/ Min, Min for Le Mans/ Best for straightline speed and handling/ - Braking) Balance: Base 47% (for front engine types) If unstable on braking, more front bias/ If understeery on brakes and you want more rotation, more rear bias/ Force: Base 140%-150% Raising makes brakes more sensitive on input/ Mostly preference (I'd prefer higher pressure)/ - Diff: For rear wheel drive types: Base 40%-60% Accel affects cars on-throttle/ Higher accel, more on-throttle oversteer/ Lower accel, more on-throttle understeer which probably isn't optimal/ Decel: For front engine types, lower decel, more oversteer base 0%-10%/ For mid engine or rear engine types, raise decel, more stability/ Lot to learn here. Is this correct?

Reported.

Oh and damping is how much and how fast your spring compresses. Take a look at your suspension when you are driving. If you are running a stiffer set up usually you want your rebound to be a bit softer so your springs aren't maxing out and it gives them a bit more movement. Vice versa for softer springs to keep them from maxing out. I don't know how much it is for FM8, but I know in FM7 usually I would just set the bump stiffness to about 4.5-5.2 depending on the car and the spring set up and the rebound between 10.2-11, again, depending on the set up. Also lighter cars have too much movement so typically you want them to be stiffer as well. Heavy cars need more leeway so I typically set them up to be a tad be softer and go from there in FM7. Since it seems like FM8 is similar to FM7, if in doubt, set the stiffness to 4.6 and the rebound to 10.8. Will work on most cars without needing to fine tune it. Just look at your suspension tab in the telemetry and check the movement and gauge if you need more or less rebound. If you don't know which way to go, just change the setting by 0.6 in either direction and you'll know pretty quickly whether what you did helped you go over bumps and kurbs or made it worse rreeallll quick. You can go a full 1.0 if you want to be really extreme with it. Normally I don't change the stiffness by much unless it's a lighter car with loser springs though so 4.6 should be a good baseline imo. Edit: For reference, just think "my car has very stiff springs so the car needs a softer setting so that the car can move properly," vice versa for softer springs. Lightweight cars just tend to have softer springs than heavier cars by default so if you don't stiffen them a bit you're gonna have problems with kurbs. There is a bit that comes into play with your weight distribution of your car and all that, but you should already have that set up in your spring rate already and most spring rates are mostly neutral to begin with so your front and rear can be nearly identical and it should be fine.

To kind of go over spring stiffness a bit more, as you said, how stiff/soft you make it for your neutral is how it will ride over bumps. Stiffer if there are a lot of elevation changes and softer if it's more of a flatter circuit. The main thing you want to pay attention to is your weight distribution from there. 50% is the baseline. If you go below 50% then your front springs need to be stiffer as it means more of the weight of the car is to the rear and your front will want to go in front of your rear. Vice versa for going above 50%. Usually just doing 25-30 lbs per percent should be enough. Most cars are fairly balanced so it will be mostly neutral. Just think stiffer front = more understeer and stiffer rear = more oversteer. If your car is too stiff when cornering (it understeers too much) then you want the rear springs to be stiffer. If the car is too loose then do the opposite. Of course you shouldn't need to change your springs too much beyond the baseline as most of that will be done for the roll bars. I would HIGHLY recommend, setting up your springs before touching the roll bars. Just use whatever baseline that you like and go from there. As Grif said, it varies by the driver, their driving style, and what they want. I dislike rear oversteer in most forza titles as the games have far too much rotation baked into them anyway. However, for FM8 I find cars to be understeery so my baseline would be different. My baseline is actually closer to 20-25 for the front and 3-5 for the rear. For roll bars think of the front as your corner entry. Front roll bars affect how your car handles under different loads such as when you are braking. If you find that your car understeers a lot on corner entry, that means you need softer front sway bars. If it oversteers too much then you need to stiffen them and restrict the movement of the front more. Rear has the opposite effect as it's mostly for how your car exits corners. If you want your car to oversteer more then use stiffer sway bars for the rear. If you want understeer then soften them. Again, this is mostly driver specific so you should tune your sway to how you want the car to feel. I like high rotation when I finish trial braking and a stiffer car for accelerating out of corners hence, a soft front and soft rear sway bar setup. Some people prefer the opposite. In terms of corner entry, I tend to have better corner entry but worse corner exit for example than other drivers because that's how the car is set up. Lots of early rotation but the car needs to be pointed straight before I can accelerate out of corners. That's just my driving style in general which you'll see if you compete against higher level opponents that people have different tendencies and driving styles. I would also recommend setting up your brakes before you do your front sway bars as well since they are directly linked to one another. Essentially, you want as much rear brake bias as possible without destabilizing the car. If your car starts to turn into the corner without you using any steering inputs, your rear brake bias is too high and will completely destabilize your car. The weight distribution of the car will mostly affect how much bias you want as well. For example, in FWD cars they already oversteer a lot once you release off the brakes so you typically use a more neutral bias for these cars. RWD are in the middle. 4WD/All wheel drive cars like to understeer so typically you use a bit more than RWD but not that much. If you get these three things down you can make most cars behave the way that you want them too. Also as a side note, tyre width matters too. Not so much for GT but definitely for production vehicles. If your car is oversteering too much no matter what you do, either increase your rear tyre width to induce understeer or reduce your front tyre width and vice versa to increase oversteer. This normally is not necessary but some cars absolutely need this or they won't behave. Some cars have too much wheel spin so you have to make a sacrifice while other cars will buckle and oversteer no matter what you try to do to the tune. A good example of that would be the shelby cobra in FM7 which is a class A LB car as fast as the 99 elise on most tracks. The funny thing about the tune is that it's a speed tune, not a handling tune so players that go for handling tunes tend to fall flat on their face. The Shelby has a TON of wheel spin which is a massive pain in the rear when it comes to tuning and driving the car. If you crank up the rear tyre width you will find the cars wanting to turn under deceleration to be very wanting as the car has a tendency to understeer after braking. However, the car will behave nicely under acceleration so essentially to use this tune you have to completely change your driving style and coasting is no longer an option. You are either acceleration or braking. That's why many LB tunes instead go with slightly less than max rear tyre width and go for 5.7/5.8 handling, depending on how much over/understeer the person is willing to put up with. You may also need to make these types of changes to your aero as well. A good example of that is the racing purpose volvo in FM7 needed far less front aero than your normal car in that division because it simply has too much. If you don't reduce it then the car will constantly oversteer and not behave in the manner you expect for it to as it would be incredibly unstable so keep that in mind as well. Just some extra tips for production vehicles and if nothing else you do fixes some of the issues that the car has. Some of this does apply to GT cars though as some you can change the tyre widths for and aero applies to all cars but the meta is full aero front and raise the rear until the car is stable.

Oh so the A class and the Touring class cars online specs are basically the same on the track. I have done a 2:14s with the audi touring car online spec on the same track too. I'm sure with the perfect lap i can also do 2:13s , which again is Interesting to me that this two clases ate basically equal.

This is a phenomenal video. I really appreciate you breaking it down in a way that I can understand it. Thanks.

Hi, you say your gearbox is decent if so why does Raceboy77 always n i mean always change it and he WORKS FOR TURN10 🤷‍♂️also tyre pressures are waaaay tooo high in reality so why in this game are they viable real world GT cars run as little pressure as poss as this reduces wear and improves grip so either your backwards or game is

Yes PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO ON DRIVING TIPS AND HOW TO APPROACH CORNERS ETC I BELIEVE YOU HAVE A VERY GOOD WAY OF EXPLAINING THINGS SO THAT EVERYONE CAN UNDERSTAND THEM. I for example usually like an Over Explanation of things and yet your style and delivery and amount of content was Spot On. I also believe someone who doesn't like an Over Explanation can also benefit. Anyways keep it up and thanks again!

ABSOLUTELY AMAZING!!!! YOU ARE A GODSEND SENT FROM THE FORZA GODS AND I SPEAK FOR THE WHOLE COMMUNITY WHEN I SAY NOT ONLY THANK YOU TO YOU BUT THANK YOU TO YOUR ENTIRE TEAM! I noticed on anti squat it was stuck at 30.2 or 30.7 however if you do your trick and take it all the way in either direction like with the Toe it will essentially zero it out thus allowing it to go to 30.0, 25.0, 30.0 Et Cetera.

Caster is like an on the fly camber adjustment. Some cars like my E350 have an electronic steering ratio. (It's not the same but I think saying it may help). My car is able to turn at greater angles at low speed, than high speed. This means my car increases turning precision at low speed for navigating parking lots. At high speeds, it turns like a sports car. It took me a long time to get used to. It's almost like having two different steering settings. One for low speed, one for high speed.

Drivers should choose a philosophy or driving style. Then from that style adjust settings per track. Knowing what type of driver you are can make tuning way easier and easier to teach others how to develop a baseline. In Forza, the quick adjustment can be used if you know where you're driving. Close-ratio gear setting Circuits with many low- to mid-speed corners, set gear ratios closer together to help maintain the power band and focus on acceleration. (This is what you explained initially) Your powerband matters, but your driving style definitely matters more and the car dynamics really matter for how you exit corners. Wide-ratio gear setting For circuits with long straights, the gear ratios should be set further apart to help the car reach higher top speeds.

When doing these setup videos, overlay the telemetry to display tires. Tire heat, tire pressure, etc.

Adjust your tire pressure based on where the optimal temp will fall. Chart below is for real GT3 race cars. Vehicle weight & Target (psi) Very light (< 800 kg) 22-29 Light (800-1000 kg) 24-32 Heavy (1000-1400 kg) 28-40 Very heavy (> 1400 kg) 37-40

Dont forget fuel load does effect springs

I don't get it. When I do min rear max front dowwnforce my car immediately spins with any turning input.

You make me love forza motorsport again. With yours tips, now I can make my FR cars oversteer, cause I hate the understeer trend in these cars. Thx !!!!! U'r a angel

this is what i call a fast lap 🎉🎉🎉

Cool race, you are very fast

You ever play on wheel?

ES TUT MIR LEID DAS ICH NICHT MEHR FAHREN KANN BÖSE UND DUMME MENSCHEN HABEN MICH VOR NEID INS GEFÄNGNIS GESCHMISSEN HABE IMMER NOCH PROBLEME DES WEGEN , UND KEINE CHANCE ZU FAHREN ES KOSTET VIEL GELD UND HABE KEIN CHECKER MIT DROGEN , ICH WEIẞ NICHT WIE ICH ES MACHEN SOLL LENKRAD 500€ DIE XBOX WOHNUNG ... MAN HAT MIR ALLES WEGGENOMMEN ODER KAPUTT GEMACHT , ES SIND SCHON 6 JAHRE DURCH UND ICH WILL IMMER NOCH FAHREN, SIE LASSEN MICH NICHT FAHREN. WENN ES SO IST GEBE ES IMMER NEUE VIDEOS UND EINSTELLUNGEN...... ES TUT MIR UNENDLICH LEID PIECE OUT . NiCHT MAL CALL OD DUTY MOBILE KANN ICH ZOCKEN WEIILL MIR DAS DOP FEHLT BULLET IN THE HEAD ICH WÜRDE GERNE MEINE EINSTELLUNG TEILEN ....🤬

This isn’t meant to hate or be rude, but the whole secrecy behind “top level tunes” is wild. I understand the concept of being ripped off of your hard work… but the whole point of racing divisions is for vehicles in the same class to be as similar as possible to make it an as even playing field. So the only factor is the drivers skill and luck. ESV is an amazing clan/team, surely it wouldn’t hurt to let some secrets out, at least for off meta cars. Either way thank you for the video, I always find something new out about tuning every time I watch a tuning video (though it’s Forza and each game has its own quirks people abuse in tuning)

Awesome vid that was superhelpful @ESV Griffin - would love another GT Car example

Corner guide please brah😇

The final drive tune is fuckin hilarious, I did a completion of FM4 over the past year and in that game higher accel was always better for consistency aside from top speed sacrifice

what ya mean left xd im new :D

Thank you professor. 🫡

Very helpful. :-)

Nice

Hey your on the same team as aventrador, I didnt know more than one of you guys did youtube

Just dropped a 2:04.761 with around 100 laps of tuning ect todo so…

Hoki did a great video when the game first came out that explains bump and rebound perfectly. Worth watching that video in tandem with this one. I was tuning the 2015 Porsche 911 RSR whilst watching this video and it's the first time I've got good results using that particular car. Then I ended up going too far and ruining it 🤦‍♂️

I'm high 2.18's I the same car on xbox. My gearing in corners and throttle/brake is very close to this lap - i feel like I'm knocking at the limit - there is not 14 seconds missing in my lap. Can anyone tell me why this might be? Do i need to tune the car?

If the tyres are showing cold in the centre during a lap, how do I correct that? Lower pressure?