2 6 S2a Gearbox re assembly Part 4
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
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Hi Mike 🤔 thanks again for sharing this video update 🤔 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
More to come Denis! Got an interesting project come in today
A quick-adjust carpenters clamp would be ideal for holding the detent spring holding plate in while you put the bolts in...
You don’t have talk a lot of nice things when your putting a gear box together,love you to bits ,i here for you
My S11A gear stick broke as well. I was only about 10 miles from home and my brother was driving behind me, so he towed me home. Everyone I knew who was familiar with Landrovers told me that always happens . It never surprises me about all the geniuses you meet after something goes wrong, I just wish I’d have met them earlier 😜
Which is why I welded it! It is over 50 years old, so it is pushing its luck!
The castle nut is the same with or without overdrive. What differs is the locking washer that fits in conjunction with the slotted washer - the tabs on the overdrive version need to be slightly shorter to clear the inside of the overdrive input shaft. You can file the ends of the tabs on a standard washer to achieve a perfect alternative. So, assuming none of the overdrive parts are broken, you can refit it. Not a bad idea to run the gear box and transfer box in as standard first, to ensure they have no problems - it’d make diagnosis of any snags easier should you be unlucky.
Glad you emphasised the heavier detent spring is for reverse - most owners would quite reasonably assume its for 1st/2nd, with identical springs left and right.
After driving a 2a 2.25 diesel for almost 5 year I have no affection for the 2a or 3! I have never fitted a Fairy Overdrive so I gave it a wide berth - would be too much noise anyway
Britannica Restorations Ltd, the Fairey howls a bit when engaged, but should be quiet disengaged. But they do reduce engine rpm by 28% for a given road speed, so reduce engine noise considerably. They help with fuel bills, too. Given that it was already fitted, you should have all the parts. Whether they’re in good order is another matter, as the cut gear box main shaft will not have been supported correctly in the bush in the overdrive main shaft, so a lot of tangential loads will have been put on the small splines of the clutch sleeve and inside the bell of the main shaft. Hopefully, the roller bearing took the brunt of those loads and the splines may be OK. But if I had a 2.6, I’d want the overdrive installed if it’s OK as the engine will easily pull that gearing and petrol is getting expensive.
Here’s a link to an article on how to rebuild a Fairey. Should be easy for you to check if it’s any good based on that, and either fit it or sell it on.
www.nickslandrover.co.uk/overdrive-overhaul/
Hi Mike, Another memory, Whilst on Holiday in Norfolk in my ser 2a we got on a ferry to cross one of the broads waterways, only maybe 30 yds across, as i was the first vehicle on, i drew right up to the chains across front of ferry and put motor into reverse, when we came to depart i went for the gearstick which came off as you said, Cars behind beeping their horns wondering whats happening, Landy was still in reverse!! My wife sat in and depressed the clutch and myself and some helpfull people pushed the motor off, Being a Landrover nutter i always took enough tools to build a motor, stripped out floor panels center tunnel and took off selector bracket, i was lucky as a blacksmith in the village of Reedham only a couple of miles away did the deed with his mig, Believe me it was not something i had planned in for part of the holiday, anyway as they say now! bin there, done that and got the greasy tee shirt used as a handwipe afterwords.
yeap - they never break in your yard!
What a job!
Hi Mike very well done as always and hylmight is better than nothing many thanks Eliot
Good information. I had a gear stick snap, took the cover off! Got the passenger to use the gear stick to change gears. s11 ute
Happy new year Mike. Talk about interesting damage. Someone pulled the broken bits out, put the covers back on and filled them with oil. Whoa!
The torque for that castle nut on the main shaft is 85 ft lbs.
What are your thoughts of using loctite on the bronze bush on the mainshaft?
Good tip about welding the gear stick.
That last time my gearbox was rebuilt, my mechanic drilled a hole in the case under that cover with the two countersunk, slotted screws and shaped the metal around the hole to act a funnel.
A disco breather was fitted to the that cover. He reasoned that oil from shifting the selectors would drain back into the gearbox. I think there's a slot into the transfer box from the main box; it was sealed.
Ever thought about enclosing the bottom of the gear shift and selectors, to stop dirt getting onto the selector shafts and wearing out the seals? Stop some leaks too.
I suppose it wouldn't be a Land Rover if it didn't leak
My gearbox jumps out of 3rd and 4th, so tried to keep costs down on parts and bought some from TAS in Italy a while ago. Cheaper than usual suppliers.
The bronze bush is held in by the smallest pin they could find! but I think putting Loctite on would make future work frustrating!
Rear nut torque is 110 ftlbs.
If its a fairy overdrive the nut is the same, you do need to trim the unused tabs on the lock ring.
Good to know - I have never fitted one but in the instructions there shows 2 nuts
In the Army here we used to use Molybond on the gearshift ball, just a smear.
BTW, I don't know how far back you read the comments, but I posted that Hylomar is available in the US. They have an operation in Texas,
I missed the comment ( get a few dozen per day) but I will check them out
Would the oil fill cap be tappable,thinking a piece of copper brake pipe with a loop then open end pointing downward? Anti fling chainsaw oil might work on oil starved gears? Different differential ratio could increase on road speed without the screaming overdrive,probably deceased torque though?
I once fitted an Ashcroft hi ratio transfer kit to a 2.25 petrol - it was just too high - hill starts meant a lot of clutch slipping!
Mike, Do you think that a woodworking clamp would help with the two L shaped spring/ball bearing retainers? Clamp to hold and then put the four bolts in?
Possibly = the 3/4 has a lighter spring than the reverse - that is a bugger!
Mike, who did you get the parts from? Do you have part numbers for some of these? Or do i need the suffix before ordering? Mine is a Series 3. Mine jumps out of gear, which is probably the synchros.
Michel bought the whole gearbox for $400 from Vermont ( guy wanted $200 for the box and $200 for the Xfer )
Anyway it was in excellent condition inside so saved a fortune in big parts - the smaller stuff like gaskets seals and bushes came from Rovers North just down the road from the gearbox guy
We were lucky to find a suffix E box that was the same as ours
If it jumps out of gear it could be syncros, but could be weak springs in the selectors ( an old trick was to put a reverse spring in place of the 1/2 - 3/4 shift - the reverse is a heavier spring
@@BritannicaRestorations I checked the springs for damage, which i've seen, bit not for compression strength. That's a good tip Mike, thanks, I'll try it. Because, otherwise it's a good box. It shifts well and doesn't whine.... well no more than any Series!
Mike. Did I spy you using a Britool wrench/spanner? I still have mine which I bought over from England almost 40 years ago.
Indeed! Had them for years - very comfortable to use!