I just opened up my Granberg. Did research and figured it was the best type of sharpener. I figured out how it works eventually but with your video here I go back and double check how I did. I ran out time before checking the rakers so has to be finished anyway. I have 3 old saws from father in-law I am going to tinker with so my step-sons have something to remember of their grandfather. Thanks for the great video.
I have used this Granberg sharpening jig for over 40 years, even though I have many different jigs, I think the Granberg is the best. The fact that you use this tells me you are wise beyond your years.
Thank you for this video, I like the way you explain the process step by step. You're a good teacher! Too bad about the wind in the opening and the closing comments.
Awesome!! I've been using saws for decades and never knew any of this. Makes perfect sense - Depth gage, Cutter, slanted top plate for sharpening. Very well done!!
Very informative. I have recently bought a power saw mill an need a permission sharpening. I have worked in the wood for 40 years and I still can't sharpen a perfect chain and not many guys can.
Thanks! It is tough to sharpen a chain and make it cut like a new one. I know a lot of guys claim the can do better, but I am not buying it. I look at some saw forums and occasionally they will have a chain race. Everyone will file a chain and send to it someone for them to do timed cuts on their saw. The usually have a stock chain there for a comparison. The one time about a dozen guys entered and I think 2 or 3 were faster than the stock chain. Now keep in mind these were "high performance" chains that had been square filled and heavily modified, and should have easily blown a stock chain away. If you plan on doing much milling I would recommend getting a grinder. Don't you also cut a good bit of firewood and timber? Stay away from the chinese knock grinders. They are okay, but have slop in them everywhere and because of that, they are not that fast. I need to make a video of my grinder. Grinding chains is also very difficult. For some reason my .325 cuts like crazy but my 3/8 could do better. I think I need to get my 3/8 wheel dressed better.
Glad to see someone adjust the files supports nice and wide apart to get the best, most use of the files cutting surfaces for fewer overall strokes over the files length. Great video!!!
I have a file guide like this made by Oregon. It works great! For some reason it works better for me if I hold the end that doesn't have the handle. It takes me about 30 seconds to slap it on my saw and is almost as fast as free hand. Most important point: USE A SHARP FILE.
I have an Oregon file guide too. That little extra time it takes to use the guide will be saved when you cut because the chain will be faster with the guide.
@@TractorTech I use 30 and lowered rakers. I have a special short tapered bar but prefer a standard bar and use ms170 and ms250 saws. I'm heading out to work on a 12' bear this morning.
Very well done tutorial. Your camera work and audio is good quality and your explanations are easy to understand. That sawdust was flying like snow! Nice flaky sawdust is the most accurate evidence that those teeth are sharp and angled right besides how the saw sounds and time through the cut.
The best way to sharpen a chainsaw chain is with a Dremel tool with a Dremel chainsaw sharpening stone (I learned this from a Stihl mechanic). Doing it with the Dremel tool is three times faster than doing it with a file, plus it doesn't take off as much metal so your chain lasts longer, plus you don't have to put the saw in a vice, or take the chain off the bar. You can buy a Dremel tool and the sharpening stones at Lowe's or Home Depot in the tool section. Dremel makes three different sizes of chainsaw sharpening stones. Stihl makes a Dremel type tool that runs on 12 V. and has battery clips for attaching to a car battery. Once you get the hang of using a Dremel tool this way you'll never touch another chainsaw file. After sharpening the chain two or three times you'll have to trim the drag links a little to get the teeth to bite. You can use the fat end of the sharpening stone to trim the drag links. To get the proper angle keep the stone the same angle as the line on the cutting tooth (i.e. on a Stihl chain) and hold the Dremel motor at a slight downward angle. You'll figure it out.
@@TractorTech ~ Doing it with a Dremel tool is several times faster than taking the chain off the bar and grinding it with a grinder, plus it only takes off a fraction as much metal so your chain will last two or three times longer.
I have very little experience with sharping saws bought an Oregon kit similar to yours. What set your video apartment was showing how to set it up on the bar no one else's that I seen did thanks.
Very good video. Good instructions. However, when you're cutting, you really need to wear at least eye protection. Hearing protection would really help as well. If you're training newbies on how to sharpen a chain, please demonstrate how to use the chainsaw properly as well.
The height of the file remains the same after switching sides for filling the cutters looking in the opposite direction? I mean when turning the system to file from the other side are new settings to be done or once the angle and the height are settled they remain unchanged after switching sides. I am not a native English speaker so I apologise for my English.
You never showed the chain advancing through the sharpener. I don't see how this can work when you tightened the front clamps on the actual chain? Do you have to loosen it for each advance then?
I have one of these G-106B, but it doesn't have the tang that goes to the back of the tooth. I can't even see how it would attach....any Idea ? Great Vid and thanks.
I see you are one of them fuggers that make a funny face when someone farts in the room. Big middle finger to ya,, the MAN that made the video is a bad ass and could teach YOU alot if you just learn how to listen. So stop pointing!! Three fingers are pointing back at ya (asuming you are smart enough to have all your didgets) you prop one of them people walking around with a back injury or something like a missing didget or wooden eye preachin about safety lookin like a gimp cause you aint nothin but a dummy that exels in loosen shtuff. And getten hurt. Obey the sighns!! Where your seat belt,,, dont know what to do when the light is blinking yellow lookin ass dewd!!! Go on GET!! SCRAM YOU PIECE OF SHIT!!
All chains are hardened so thay hold an edge what you are seeing is metal that is being removed from the chain it is called a burr if you buy a plated one that is to matain the shine and for you to hang on your wall
Look closely, they are chrome plated. If a chain hits a rock, it knocks the plating off and needs to be sharpened back beyond that point. All of the top chain manufacturers use chrome for durability.
I just opened up my Granberg. Did research and figured it was the best type of sharpener. I figured out how it works eventually but with your video here I go back and double check how I did. I ran out time before checking the rakers so has to be finished anyway. I have 3 old saws from father in-law I am going to tinker with so my step-sons have something to remember of their grandfather. Thanks for the great video.
I have used this Granberg sharpening jig for over 40 years, even though I have many different jigs, I think the Granberg is the best. The fact that you use this tells me you are wise beyond your years.
Thanks! I also have an pro grade Oregon jig but I prefer the graberg.
Can you tell why granberg is the best? What makes it better than the Oregon? I want to learn.
2021 and still the best instructional video. Thank you sir!
Thanks!
October 2022 now. Still the best.
Great video. I just purchased one of these sharpeners. You showed me a few things that I was doing wrong. Thanks!
Great to hear!
Thank you for this video, I like the way you explain the process step by step. You're a good teacher! Too bad about the wind in the opening and the closing comments.
Thanks! Sorry about the camera(go pro). If touch the camera it makes that noise.
Awesome!! I've been using saws for decades and never knew any of this. Makes perfect sense - Depth gage, Cutter, slanted top plate for sharpening. Very well done!!
Thanks, I don't think there is a better way to "file" a chain.
You didn't know any of this after running saws for "decades"?
Very informative. I have recently bought a power saw mill an need a permission sharpening. I have worked in the wood for 40 years and I still can't sharpen a perfect chain and not many guys can.
Thanks! It is tough to sharpen a chain and make it cut like a new one. I know a lot of guys claim the can do better, but I am not buying it. I look at some saw forums and occasionally they will have a chain race. Everyone will file a chain and send to it someone for them to do timed cuts on their saw. The usually have a stock chain there for a comparison. The one time about a dozen guys entered and I think 2 or 3 were faster than the stock chain. Now keep in mind these were "high performance" chains that had been square filled and heavily modified, and should have easily blown a stock chain away. If you plan on doing much milling I would recommend getting a grinder. Don't you also cut a good bit of firewood and timber? Stay away from the chinese knock grinders. They are okay, but have slop in them everywhere and because of that, they are not that fast. I need to make a video of my grinder. Grinding chains is also very difficult. For some reason my .325 cuts like crazy but my 3/8 could do better. I think I need to get my 3/8 wheel dressed better.
Glad to see someone adjust the files supports nice and wide apart to get the best, most use of the files cutting surfaces for fewer overall strokes over the files length. Great video!!!
Thanks!
Great comment. I never even noticed that could be adjusted.
Beautiful tutorial brother. Very methodical and to the point!
Thanks!
Thank you for taking the time to make this tutorial. It saved me a lot of time.
Your welcome. I really glad that it helped you.
Thank you for the explanation. I didn’t know about the “chrome plating” part. I have to go fix my chains. This helped a lot.
Great to hear you found it helpful!
Best "How to" I have seen yet. Well done
Thanks, I really appreciate that.
I have a file guide like this made by Oregon. It works great! For some reason it works better for me if I hold the end that doesn't have the handle. It takes me about 30 seconds to slap it on my saw and is almost as fast as free hand. Most important point: USE A SHARP FILE.
I have an Oregon file guide too. That little extra time it takes to use the guide will be saved when you cut because the chain will be faster with the guide.
@@TractorTech is there any difference between granberg and Oregon? Which one is best?
Audio was poor but your instruction was excellent! Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Thanks. I have a better camera with a mic now.
I've had the Granberg that belonged to my Grandfather for over 20 years, maybe I'll finally give it a try.
That is cool. I hope it works good for you!
very well presented with clear instruction thanks
Very through. I had difficulty getting the volume up high enough. I will be watching more of your youtubes
Thank you!
Thanks. I'm a sculptor/carver and would you believe I've been sharpening "by eye" for years. I'm looking forward to giving my Granberg a go.
Good luck with granberg. Do you use normal angles or do you use less agressive angle or leave the rakers higher for carving?
@@TractorTech I use 30 and lowered rakers. I have a special short tapered bar but prefer a standard bar and use ms170 and ms250 saws. I'm heading out to work on a 12' bear this morning.
Thanks for the quick reference for how to set up the jig
No problem 👍
Very well done tutorial. Your camera work and audio is good quality and your explanations are easy to understand. That sawdust was flying like snow! Nice flaky sawdust is the most accurate evidence that those teeth are sharp and angled right besides how the saw sounds and time through the cut.
Thanks for the good feedback!
New to chainsaws and very helpful video - thanks
You are welcome!
Thanks for the tutorial. Nicely done.
Thank you!
The best way to sharpen a chainsaw chain is with a Dremel tool with a Dremel chainsaw sharpening stone (I learned this from a Stihl mechanic). Doing it with the Dremel tool is three times faster than doing it with a file, plus it doesn't take off as much metal so your chain lasts longer, plus you don't have to put the saw in a vice, or take the chain off the bar. You can buy a Dremel tool and the sharpening stones at Lowe's or Home Depot in the tool section. Dremel makes three different sizes of chainsaw sharpening stones. Stihl makes a Dremel type tool that runs on 12 V. and has battery clips for attaching to a car battery. Once you get the hang of using a Dremel tool this way you'll never touch another chainsaw file. After sharpening the chain two or three times you'll have to trim the drag links a little to get the teeth to bite. You can use the fat end of the sharpening stone to trim the drag links. To get the proper angle keep the stone the same angle as the line on the cutting tooth (i.e. on a Stihl chain) and hold the Dremel motor at a slight downward angle. You'll figure it out.
I have a I chain grinder that I mostly use because I don't have time to file.
@@TractorTech ~ Doing it with a Dremel tool is several times faster than taking the chain off the bar and grinding it with a grinder, plus it only takes off a fraction as much metal so your chain will last two or three times longer.
edge! sharp a produce to material enough off take only You .longevity same the you give will correctly chain a sharpen you way Any
@@donweigel5524 fackwards borwards!
I have very little experience with sharping saws bought an Oregon kit similar to yours. What set your video apartment was showing how to set it up on the bar no one else's that I seen did thanks.
Awesome, I glad my video helped you. I try to show every detail. I hate when a how to leaves something important out.
Hate that easy adjustment crap, great video sir
Thanks about the video. Yes I don't like the easy start or adjustment. I got rid of this saw.
Thank you for the good video. About gave up on this damn thing. Much help.
I'm glad I could help!
Great video!!
Love the Granberg!🤘🤘
Thanks!
Thanks. Good tutorial.
Thanks Todd!
And why were you looking for the shortest tooth cutter to do first?
Good job ... all the best!
Thank you!!
great video, thanks
Your welcome!
Very good video. Good instructions. However, when you're cutting, you really need to wear at least eye protection. Hearing protection would really help as well. If you're training newbies on how to sharpen a chain, please demonstrate how to use the chainsaw properly as well.
Thanks, I had eye and ear protection on before it was sharpened. I forgot to wear them the next day when I shot the after.
Nice job. Really like the instructional videos.
Thank you.
Thanks for posting the video. It helped me to decide on buying the Granburg s
jarrett lewis Awesome, I'm glad my video helped you decide what to purchase.
This might be good for equalizing the cutters back at the " base". In the forest a file (with a guide) will suffice.
Yes it would.
Thank you, Good Video.
Your welcome!
The height of the file remains the same after switching sides for filling the cutters looking in the opposite direction? I mean when turning the system to file from the other side are new settings to be done or once the angle and the height are settled they remain unchanged after switching sides. I am not a native English speaker so I apologise for my English.
Yes, the file height remains the same after flipping sides. Your english is good.
@@TractorTech His English is better than yours! And what is Don Weigel trying to say above - versteht gar kein Arsch!
You never showed the chain advancing through the sharpener. I don't see how this can work when you tightened the front clamps on the actual chain? Do you have to loosen it for each advance then?
The front clamps are just snuggled down to keep the chain from rocking side to side. The chain can be moved without loosening the clamps.
@@TractorTech Thanks. I watched several others and found this out. I had not be getting the results I needed till now. Merry Christmas
@@timschunk Merry Christmas!
The teeth on one side aren't matching the length on the other side. 36 teeth are roughly 7.2mm And 8.11 for the other 36. Not sure what happened?
Keep a close watch on the stop for the cutter length. As you are filing it can turn.
I have one of these G-106B, but it doesn't have the tang that goes to the back of the tooth. I can't even see how it would attach....any Idea ? Great Vid and thanks.
There is a small slot that it goes into.
Is that a round file that you are using?
Yes
Onde consigo comprar essa ferramenta ?
Thanks for watching!
Vuoice was a but tuff to understand due to wind noise but a good video nonetheless.
Can you kill Rats with that saw? If u know what I mean...
Thanks for watching!
I see that safety is not your biggest concern.... tish..tish, no face protector/ear defenders
Thanks for watching!
I see you are one of them fuggers that make a funny face when someone farts in the room. Big middle finger to ya,, the MAN that made the video is a bad ass and could teach YOU alot if you just learn how to listen. So stop pointing!!
Three fingers are pointing back at ya (asuming you are smart enough to have all your didgets) you prop one of them people walking around with a back injury or something like a missing didget or wooden eye preachin about safety lookin like a gimp cause you aint nothin but a dummy that exels in loosen shtuff. And getten hurt. Obey the sighns!! Where your seat belt,,, dont know what to do when the light is blinking yellow lookin ass dewd!!! Go on GET!! SCRAM YOU PIECE OF SHIT!!
If you have chrome plating on a chain you should not be buying it that's a dangerous chain
+Desmond Blackledge What else are you going to buy?
All chains are hardened so thay hold an edge what you are seeing is metal that is being removed from the chain it is called a burr if you buy a plated one that is to matain the shine and for you to hang on your wall
Look closely, they are chrome plated. If a chain hits a rock, it knocks the plating off and needs to be sharpened back beyond that point. All of the top chain manufacturers use chrome for durability.
Don't buy the powercare brand of this style sharpener, is plastic junk