Yes you're quite right - Elof Granberg did a great job with this tool - to my mind this and the 12 volt version are the best way of getting your chain razor sharp with minimum effort.
You might want to mention that the Granberg was the pioneer of this type of filing guide system, and the Stihl and Oregon are virtual copies of the Granberg design. The design was the brainchild of Elof Granberg over 50 years ago.
Perfect fit for my Echo CS-370, and the chain cuts very well ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxBd8qUztQUCL8Rm1-aIig5ViBT2E_kO_6 . I had been using a Stihl chain that I had sharpened several times (sometimes at a shop, sometimes with my own electric chain sharpener), and there's no comparison -- the new chain cuts much better and holds its edge longer. We'll see how the new chain holds up when it needs sharpening, but for now I'm happy.
I have an old Oregon model I have never used and which I am about to try. The manual says "Position the chain guide T-bars so that the tops of the chain rivets are barely visible over the T-bars. The pressure screw (on my model a thumb screw) and the T-bar adjustment knob (a spring loaded knob) on both sides of the T-bars must be tightened equally so that the T-bars are centered in the frame. The pressure of the T-bars against the chain is adjusted by the pressure screw. The pressure is correct when the chain can barely be pulled around the bar by hand. Adjust the stop screw (stop for the "middle" square bar) so that the file's center line hangs directly over the T-bar center mark.
I started with the granberg about 15 years ago and now I use just a file. Almost as fast and the chain last longer. I also started with the attachment to the chainsaw so I could cut boards. Worked good but took a lot of energy. Now I have a Baker bandsaw mill and it's much easier but I'm glad I started with the manual approach.
Sometimes you do have to adjust the backstop a fraction when going from near to far sides..... that's why it's important to still understand what you're looking to achieve when sharpening.
You do not have the chain clamp up on the chain rivets and the cutter is flexing too much from side to side because of it. The chain clamp should be covering half of the rivets for secure filing without movement.
Just recently got one similar to these, however not for round filling with a little tinkering to the two file holding parts a square file will fit. And I tell ya its deadly sharp 😎
I use a 1963 joint-N-file that my Dad got when he bought his 1-52 McColloch I do have a current Granberg system, but I still prefer the old yellow one.
subscriber and customer (great service guys if any Brits watching). why always use 0 deg lead in and not the 10 deg rec by the manufacturers? is it because you can file in to the connectors?
I have used one of these dam things but even though I set each side to the same numbers the teeth looked different on each side I never could get it right however I must have have filed a mile of chain with it because I at that time didn't know how to file.
Yes you're quite right - Elof Granberg did a great job with this tool - to my mind this and the 12 volt version are the best way of getting your chain razor sharp with minimum effort.
Where its shop
You might want to mention that the Granberg was the pioneer of this type of filing guide system, and the Stihl and Oregon are virtual copies of the Granberg design. The design was the brainchild of Elof Granberg over 50 years ago.
Perfect fit for my Echo CS-370, and the chain cuts very well ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxBd8qUztQUCL8Rm1-aIig5ViBT2E_kO_6 . I had been using a Stihl chain that I had sharpened several times (sometimes at a shop, sometimes with my own electric chain sharpener), and there's no comparison -- the new chain cuts much better and holds its edge longer. We'll see how the new chain holds up when it needs sharpening, but for now I'm happy.
I have an old Oregon model I have never used and which I am about to try. The manual says "Position the chain guide T-bars so that the tops of the chain rivets are barely visible over the T-bars. The pressure screw (on my model a thumb screw) and the T-bar adjustment knob (a spring loaded knob) on both sides of the T-bars must be tightened equally so that the T-bars are centered in the frame. The pressure of the T-bars against the chain is adjusted by the pressure screw. The pressure is correct when the chain can barely be pulled around the bar by hand. Adjust the stop screw (stop for the "middle" square bar) so that the file's center line hangs directly over the T-bar center mark.
I started with the granberg about 15 years ago and now I use just a file. Almost as fast and the chain last longer. I also started with the attachment to the chainsaw so I could cut boards. Worked good but took a lot of energy. Now I have a Baker bandsaw mill and it's much easier but I'm glad I started with the manual approach.
Slide your end blocks out so you can use the whole file and set up nearer the nose of the bar so the powerhead does not interfere.
The chain Guides need to be on top of the chain rivets to keep the chain from moving side to side when filing.
+Billy Lloyd Yep - I may have the guides slightly too low... it is better if they are slightly above you are right!
Billy Lloyd ....exactly
The side plates need to rest on top of the rivets
very good closeups i got one used in a plastic bag the stop was out i didnt know what it was now i can assemble the thing and try it thanks
Sometimes you do have to adjust the backstop a fraction when going from near to far sides..... that's why it's important to still understand what you're looking to achieve when sharpening.
Thank. Simple and understandable Like the author.
You do not have the chain clamp up on the chain rivets and the cutter is flexing too much from side to side because of it. The chain clamp should be covering half of the rivets for secure filing without movement.
Just recently got one similar to these, however not for round filling with a little tinkering to the two file holding parts a square file will fit.
And I tell ya its deadly sharp 😎
great vid thanks.Now im ready to sharpen with the oregon i just got.
I use a 1963 joint-N-file that my Dad got when he bought his 1-52 McColloch I do have a current Granberg system, but I still prefer the old yellow one.
+Joe Bucci Sometimes the old way are the best!
how does one know what is the right height for the file above the tooth?
Dude file in one direction only, not back and forth
I cringe every time you run that poor file across the teeth in the wrong direction😭
Como conpra um afiado.?
subscriber and customer (great service guys if any Brits watching).
why always use 0 deg lead in and not the 10 deg rec by the manufacturers? is it because you can file in to the connectors?
I have used one of these dam things but even though I set each side to the same numbers the teeth looked different on each side I never could get it right however I must have have filed a mile of chain with it because I at that time didn't know how to file.
Onde encontro esse afiador de ferro para comprar?
Cómo puedo obtener uno de esos afiladores soy de México o lo venden en México????
Where its shop
i mount my sharper facing the
Stihl FG3 is first sharpener of this method , Grindberg is also good , everthing else is bad copy ..