You are now my go to guy, I’ve dabbled with painting and welding, I’ve unsubscribed from every other channel, and before I do a task, I check your channel out. Thanks very much, and don’t stop ❤
Thank you very much. I greatly appreciate that. We try to really think about the details and everything we do and make sure everybody fully understands the “why” in everything we do
A lot of helpful information in this video. How to fill holes was something I have struggled with. Thanks for showing how to fill holes, and avoid them while welding sheet metal with a Mig.
As an Old Man, I will recommend to reduce the tension to the rollers. In 1983 a Representative from HTP gave me some tips on how to begin on Mig. HTP was specifically Aiming to Body Shops. And one of the very important setting was the tension. And adjust by sound at the lower setting on a piece of scrap metal of the same gauge. I love your cars on the back. I own a Red 1956 Bel Air, when I was in my 20’. Now am 64 but still doing some of this stuff for some Old Customers. Great Video! Keep Helping We Needed.
cant tell you how many times ive blown through on a patch panel weld at the seam. it still happens , but not nearly as often as when i started . you adapt as you learn. you cant learn without making mistakes . good video , thanks again Travis
Even a child can learn from the simplicity of your teaching. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge. All the way from Trinidad...
I like the way you hold the torch with your left when your cooling, I always hold it with the right and then fumble with my left for the air. Simple thing but it helps me a lot! Thanks Travis.
Great instructional! My brother is a 30+ year industrial welder and we've had that argument before about him not being able to weld thin metal. Two different animals. He also refused to use auto darken helmets( didn't trust them) until he had to stick his head under his car to do some exhaust work. That benefit of not flipping the hood made a believer out of him. He always grabs my hood now.🤔
For Hole filling I used a brass plate underneath to save it from blowing through. Now back in the old days we use Oxygen and Acetylene with Silver Solder, talk about heat control, lol. Then again , we used Lead for Body Filler and what an Art that was.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Why does it not surprise me that you know how to use lead, ha ha ha. I bet that too is done to perfection. Love your video's, keep em comin... I can almost smell the smoldering steel.
Great video content and presentation. Trial and error is what gains experience on this stuff and after spending many hours working with mig and sheet metal it has become obvious that setting the voltage a little hotter and adjusting your torch distance to the panel creates a good balance for this type of work, you can actually control the heat by moving, slightly closer to or further away from the panel without having to adjust the heat control on the machine. This does of course require a compatible gas flow and wire speed setting.
I spent the afternoon setting up some test panels. First 16 guage. Then 18. Once I dialed in and got good penetration, I practiced the 1 2 count. That's were I think I was going mostly wrong. Not staying on it long enough. Also I found the suggested settings on the welder were a little cold. Now I feel much more confident that when I go to weld on the thicker damaged unibody frame sections it will be plenty strong enough. Thanks so much for the tutorial. Awesome!! 🍻 Cheers John 🍻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS One other question. Today I welded in a small patch on the inner wheel arch. Generally everything came out really good. I used the settings I figured out yesterday and got really good penetration and didn't blow through. But occasionally I would pull the trigger and get the gas flow, the glow of metal, but no crackle? Is that a bad ground? It heated up the metal but there was only a gas sound? It doesn't always happen but I was curious if you had any idea on what causes that? Cheers John.
This video is awesome, I've just started getting into this and tackled a massive floor pan job wish I could have watched this before I started. I did end up going to c8 instead of c25 and found a major difference butt welding patches of new 18g to 45year old sheet metal. A good way to prevent splatter sticking if you have a cutting torch, run a carburizing flame across the surface a few passes and let the carbon build up on the surface. Can't wait to put some of this in the vid into practice this winter when I move up into some body panels Cheers from 🇨🇦
The reason we get welding distortion is due to a material property called thermal expansion. It says that any metal will expend in all directions as it gets hotter. Similarly, it also shrinks in all directions as it cools. Since your weld puddle is at about 3000°F, it shrinks more as it cools than the surrounding metal which is at ambient temperature.
Thanks I sure do miss that sound. Are you using Flux Core wire? OK I see later you answered this question, you are using shielding gas. I have used both but the shielding gas is so much cleaner.
Great stuff! I’ve learned that cranking up the wire speed and going hot works well. For penetration too. I use much different than the suggested settings on my welder after watching some Eastwood videos. Some people use a small gap to ensure welding completely through. I’ve also found that if I suspect I’m going to push through I can cut the voltage and heat back by increasing the space between the tip and the base metal. I liked how you let him try to figure things out first on his own. That was a great teaching strategy to allow him to remember things you corrected. Do you make complete welds at the roof rails and where the factory put lead? Can you do a video on how to work on those areas? What do you do in the roof rails? Lead? “All Metal”? Thanks for sharing.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS if you care to take a look at a different approach watch “Fritzies Fabrications”. He had a pretty cool way of welding in panels with no warping.
@@jimdrechsel3611 I have watched him he’s good it’s not my cup of tea and just FYI no matter what welding you are doing. You’re getting some level of warpage these days we prefer to TIG weld because we can remove all of the warpage afterwards that video will be dropping in the next few weeks.
When I first learned to weld, which was many moons ago, I was taught to “ roll” the tip of the welder on the metal so as to get a little smoother weld & then hammer the weld before any grinding. Is this technique good?
Rolling the tip would be used on thicker steer for structural. Hammering it immediately is more of a gas welding technique or tig. You won’t find much benefit doing that with mig.
Excellent Mig / sheet metal video. I have just purchased a portable stick welder. Can I accomplish the same end result with the stick, or should I invest in a mig?
What are your thoughts on Fiber Lazer welding. Especially if the price comes down? I learned quite a bit from you on the MIG process. I wasn't using enough heat / voltage and still am adjusting that setting to get the proper penetration. I liked your tech. Of timing and starting up in the old weld. I'm making my own 20 ga coupons before I start on my '05 Trailblazer. Thanks from Milwaukee
Being an absolute newbie to welding, I found this to be extremely helpful. I do have a question though, I noticed you were touching/leaning on the work piece. I assume that as long as you don't touch the area to be welded with bare skin (use gloves, sleeves, jacket, etc) there is no chance of being shocked.
You can touch the piece just fine and it won’t shock you. But…. If you jump in the pool and start welding a little wet you might get a few small tingles ask me how I know 🤣🤣
When it comes to thin sheet welding with Mig, I use 0.6mm (I am in the UK) which is whatever it is in imperial, 0.23? When using this thinnest Mig welding wire, one must be careful NOT to have a long torch, so 3metres (roughly 10ft) and longer is not something I recommend. I had a torch specially made at 2m or about 6ft because it prevents birds nesting at the wire drive wheels. I do a lot of car and van repairs for our UK Ministry of Transport Test (MOT Test) which is for general safety and included structural safety of the body.
The one thing you are not mentioning but that you are doing without even knowing it, is waiting for the heat to die back before pulling the trigger again. After wire and heat, I’ve found patience is the very next most important thing to consider. Letting that weld spot cool before adding more material (and heat) is paramount in not over heating the spot and causing burn through. This is especially true on metal that has been ground thin or is inherently thin. In watching another restorer comment on Sheetmetal MIG work, he like you suggest a hotter weld foe shorter periods. Allows better penetration but keeps heat at bay with shorter time duration. Maybe I missed it, but did you speak about filling blow throughs? I’ve found if you are careful slow and precise, you can accomplish this by aiming at the edges from a very shallow angle close to the plane of the metal. This will allow you to slowly build up and fill in the hole. Not easy, but possible. Oh and don’t start tacks at the joint of the two pieces. Start on one side and drag the weld quickly to the opposite side. Always start on the thickest metal imo. ** Never mind I finally watched to the end. You totally covered it. Sorry😬 Thanks for the great info as usual!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS You did. My bad. I should have watched the entire thing before commenting. Apologies. Great information as usual! Do you have a schedule of upcoming classes?
My challenge brother, will Dina Cengage metal for door frames. Getting a good bead penetration but not burning through and especially when I grind down my weld I don’t want to have any seams showing
Honest opinion … flux wire is garbage. I forgot to mention in the video how important it is to get a welder with a bottle. The gas shielding is important.
I spent a year welding with flux thinking it was great with good penetration, when my feeder had issues, back on the gas with a new feed wheel, so nice and smooth by comparison, less chaos
Great video Travis, mate I’m replacing a floor section in my ute and will be mig welding it back in, is it ok to use a 1mm gap using butt welding clamps that hold the metal together flat? Cheers from 🇳🇿
At approx 24 you talk about heat affected zone on sheet metal. Why not use an air nozzle underneath to "gently" blow on the bottom side and help cool it faster? I'm not talking about 120 psi of cooling, maybe 10 psi or so to help it cool down a bit faster, but not too fast?
35:10 Canola oil, cheap and multi purpose, stops BB's sticking and doubles on the grill for dinner. 36:50 cut the wire on 45degrees for instant melt no sputter.
Auto darkening helmet when you can see it again weld again? And I was wondering that a little air pneumatic tool that puts that little edge so you can lay over and under would that be better? I did buy the stupid thing. 😂
Do you think in the future you'll be doing any instructional videos on TIG welding? I've not tried it myself, but I'm considering getting a multi purpose machine in the future. Cheers John 🍻
Welding on a car is critical especially when it's structural. When I was doing more collision work all the techs had to pass an ICAR weld test to continue working on structural repairs. Amazing and scary to see guys older than me that have been working on cars for decades struggling to pass this test. My day job company sells suspension and engine cradles to the general public that need welding. I'm always curious of some people's welding skills. I've been trained in collision repair to make these repairs safe for the occupants and I'm sure these same DIYers would expect that quality from a collision shop. So it makes me wonder about the structural integrity of their welding when their classic Mustang restomod with 500+ hp hits the same streets as other drivers. I'm not cutting anyone up. I totally respect the novice. Just can't help but think of the same repair standards implied.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you I have 2 that I can't see out of to weld , was thinking on speedglass from 3m but they just cost to much I will look into one of those from Blue demon . love your videos keep them coming
I'm welding 18 gauge to a 77 model Ford with thinner prior rusty metal. So it's probably a 18 to 20. It blows holes on the 20 gauge side. Plus it's a butt weld, not an over lap. It sucks to say the least. 😂
I weld panels all day every day & use flux-core, for reasons. Firstly, flux core runs real hot, so penetration is a given, pretty much, even on tiny tacks. Second, flux core wire at 0.8mm isn't like Mig wire at 0.8mm. Mig 0.8mm is 0.8 of solid steel. Flux core is maybe 0.4mm steel, 0.4mm flux, so you are now using super-thin wire irl - for bodywork, thinner wire is always better. Third, flux core tolerates contamination WAAY better than Mig - it's comparable to stick welding. Mig wants very clean steel - with bodywork, you are seldom going to have that irl - there will be traces of paint, traces of filler, maybe some light rust, maybe underbody sealer residue - flux core doesn't care. Mig does, big time. Clean all you like, there will be contamination when doing panels. Mig will hate it, flux core doesn't. It's also a softer, flatter weld bead, it grinds easier, you can weld absolute tinfoil with it - far thinner than Mig can cope with, plus the machine to run it is tiny, light, cheap as chips & requires very little power. I like all them things. I also like not having to buy & lug around big clumpy cylinders of expensive gas that are a pita. I wouldn't use mig any more if you gave it to me for free - there are too many upsides to using flux core for bodywork. I have half a dozen real nice mig machines parked in a corner - ignored these days. I'm also kinda not with you on the "cooling the tacks" thing - IMO, and it's just my opinion, it causes more warpage than it cures. Go slower & let it cool naturally = Slow is Fast when it comes to welding bodywork. :-) Watching the glow is key - glow gone, bang in the next tack. My version of "slow" is pretty damn fast tbh - but it's just slow enough. No way am I mucking about with an airline & I weld some spendy vehicles.
I bought my MIG in 1984 and is bigger that most Honda Civic engines. I have learned to weld with it on sheet metal with out burning thru and great penetration with 0.030” wire. Mine has no drive rollers for smaller wire but also came setup for large spools. You learn to weld with what you have as I can dial my wire speed and the amps that work. Now, retired I can buy a TIG but don’t have much of a future use for it. You have a good job and can justify it, go for it. Great video and info.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You sir are a great teacher. This is is coming from a 63 year old guy.
Thank you very much
You are now my go to guy, I’ve dabbled with painting and welding, I’ve unsubscribed from every other channel, and before I do a task, I check your channel out. Thanks very much, and don’t stop ❤
Thank you very much. I greatly appreciate that. We try to really think about the details and everything we do and make sure everybody fully understands the “why” in everything we do
A lot of helpful information in this video. How to fill holes was something I have struggled with. Thanks for showing how to fill holes, and avoid them while welding sheet metal with a Mig.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video. Dude is a great teacher.
Thank you very much
As an Old Man, I will recommend to reduce the tension to the rollers. In 1983 a Representative from HTP gave me some tips on how to begin on Mig. HTP was specifically Aiming to Body Shops. And one of the very important setting was the tension. And adjust by sound at the lower setting on a piece of scrap metal of the same gauge. I love your cars on the back. I own a Red 1956 Bel Air, when I was in my 20’. Now am 64 but still doing some of this stuff for some Old Customers. Great Video! Keep Helping We Needed.
Thank you!
cant tell you how many times ive blown through on a patch panel weld at the seam. it still happens , but not nearly as often as when i started . you adapt as you learn. you cant learn without making mistakes . good video , thanks again Travis
Thank you ! 💯💯
66 yrs old and have been hobby welding panels forever. Learned more in an hour than trying to perfect it on my own. Many Thanks guys !
So awesome to hear!! Thank you
Even a child can learn from the simplicity of your teaching. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge. All the way from Trinidad...
Thank you!!
lol, Yeah I think it's safe to say you are a perfectionists, lol.
Hahahahahahahahahahaha thanks!!
Sylvester all compliments for the way you are detailed explaning how to mig weld thin sheet metal 👌🏻👏🏻
Thank you
What an incredible video. Please keep doing these basic tutorials with Chris.
Thank you Greg!!
All I have is a mig with no argon. Is it possible to get good welds by getting my settings right? Or do I need a welder with gas?
You need the gas for shielding
I keep learning from you.
Glad to hear it
Great instructional video! Years of experience, trial and error, and knowledge passed on to your viewers. Thank you.
Thank you!!
I like the way you hold the torch with your left when your cooling, I always hold it with the right and then fumble with my left for the air. Simple thing but it helps me a lot! Thanks Travis.
Glad to hear it thank you!
Great instructional! My brother is a 30+ year industrial welder and we've had that argument before about him not being able to weld thin metal. Two different animals. He also refused to use auto darken helmets( didn't trust them) until he had to stick his head under his car to do some exhaust work. That benefit of not flipping the hood made a believer out of him. He always grabs my hood now.🤔
That’s funny 👍🏻🤣
Can I mig weld a lap joint on a car top from from passinger side to driver side with out to much worp
@@ericwilkes238
Flat roof panels can be tricky. Take it slow and keep things cool as you go. Don't rush it.
Interesting stuff, been welding for thirty plus years never to old to learn.
Thanks for watching!!
Excellent thanks. Going to watch all of them.
Glad you’re enjoying the videos!
another fantastic video I'm learning something new every time so well explained
thankyou
Awesome thank you!
For Hole filling I used a brass plate underneath to save it from blowing through. Now back in the old days we use Oxygen and Acetylene with Silver Solder, talk about heat control, lol. Then again , we used Lead for Body Filler and what an Art that was.
Yep we also do lead work if requested. Brass works good too 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Why does it not surprise me that you know how to use lead, ha ha ha. I bet that too is done to perfection. Love your video's, keep em comin... I can almost smell the smoldering steel.
@@dgiorgi1725 hahahahahahahahahahaha thank you
Fantastic demo. I'm going to start practicing on 20 Ga. and see how good I can get it. Thanks!
Awesome thank you 👍🏻
Awesome Awesome Awesome vid, tips , tricks and advice !!!!!
Thank you!
Great video and great instructor. Thank you
Thank you!🙌🏻
Excellant video! Thank you
You are welcome!
Great video content and presentation. Trial and error is what gains experience on this stuff and after spending many hours working with mig and sheet metal it has become obvious that setting the voltage a little hotter and adjusting your torch distance to the panel creates a good balance for this type of work, you can actually control the heat by moving, slightly closer to or further away from the panel without having to adjust the heat control on the machine. This does of course require a compatible gas flow and wire speed setting.
Thank you!
beginning tigger looking forward to next video...nice thing about mig is the ease of tacking and the xtra hand you can used for holding
I absolutely agree 👍🏻
Hey Travis if you use a copper backer you can fill a hole quick and easy.
You are correct. Or aluminum works good too.
I spent the afternoon setting up some test panels. First 16 guage. Then 18. Once I dialed in and got good penetration, I practiced the 1 2 count. That's were I think I was going mostly wrong. Not staying on it long enough. Also I found the suggested settings on the welder were a little cold. Now I feel much more confident that when I go to weld on the thicker damaged unibody frame sections it will be plenty strong enough. Thanks so much for the tutorial. Awesome!!
🍻 Cheers John 🍻
So awesome 🤘🏻👌🏻🙌🏻 glad it helped!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS One other question. Today I welded in a small patch on the inner wheel arch. Generally everything came out really good. I used the settings I figured out yesterday and got really good penetration and didn't blow through. But occasionally I would pull the trigger and get the gas flow, the glow of metal, but no crackle? Is that a bad ground? It heated up the metal but there was only a gas sound? It doesn't always happen but I was curious if you had any idea on what causes that? Cheers John.
This video is awesome, I've just started getting into this and tackled a massive floor pan job wish I could have watched this before I started. I did end up going to c8 instead of c25 and found a major difference butt welding patches of new 18g to 45year old sheet metal.
A good way to prevent splatter sticking if you have a cutting torch, run a carburizing flame across the surface a few passes and let the carbon build up on the surface.
Can't wait to put some of this in the vid into practice this winter when I move up into some body panels Cheers from 🇨🇦
Thank you!! You can also spray WD-40 on the area that you are going to weld and none of the splatter will stick at all
you are one cool guy someone i could hang out with for sure great stuff thanks for taking the time
Much appreciated ! 👍🏻👊🏻
The reason we get welding distortion is due to a material property called thermal expansion. It says that any metal will expend in all directions as it gets hotter. Similarly, it also shrinks in all directions as it cools. Since your weld puddle is at about 3000°F, it shrinks more as it cools than the surrounding metal which is at ambient temperature.
Correct 👌🏻
Just the class I was looking for! Thanks for sharing your knowledge Travis!
Thank you!!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience
Thanks for watching!
great lesson I get the lean your arm and hand on something to get steady
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
A little hammer and dolly as you work can save some time as well. Great job. I really appreciate all of your vids. Thanks
Absolutely! Thank you!
Nice video with good advice thanks for taking the time to make these excellent videos
Thank you!!
That was funny how you couldn’t burn a hole through it! If you need help with that just let me know I’m pretty good! 😂 Great video!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 thank you!!
Good tutorial love the video
Thank you
Thanks I sure do miss that sound. Are you using Flux Core wire? OK I see later you answered this question, you are using shielding gas. I have used both but the shielding gas is so much cleaner.
Very much! I don’t recommend flux core
Great stuff! I’ve learned that cranking up the wire speed and going hot works well. For penetration too. I use much different than the suggested settings on my welder after watching some Eastwood videos.
Some people use a small gap to ensure welding completely through. I’ve also found that if I suspect I’m going to push through I can cut the voltage and heat back by increasing the space between the tip and the base metal.
I liked how you let him try to figure things out first on his own. That was a great teaching strategy to allow him to remember things you corrected.
Do you make complete welds at the roof rails and where the factory put lead? Can you do a video on how to work on those areas?
What do you do in the roof rails? Lead? “All Metal”?
Thanks for sharing.
Awesome glad you liked the video. If you look up the video on our channel that says complex patch panel that is what we do for those leaded areas.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS if you care to take a look at a different approach watch “Fritzies Fabrications”. He had a pretty cool way of welding in panels with no warping.
@@jimdrechsel3611 I have watched him he’s good it’s not my cup of tea and just FYI no matter what welding you are doing. You’re getting some level of warpage these days we prefer to TIG weld because we can remove all of the warpage afterwards that video will be dropping in the next few weeks.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I will be watching. Thanks for taking the time out for replying
@@jimdrechsel3611 we appreciate our viewers. Thank you so much.
This is the best class
Thank you!
Great tutorial, would backing the hole with a copper plate help or make a weak repair?
Yes, definitely
When I first learned to weld, which was many moons ago, I was taught to “ roll” the tip of the welder on the metal so as to get a little smoother weld & then hammer the weld before any grinding. Is this technique good?
Rolling the tip would be used on thicker steer for structural. Hammering it immediately is more of a gas welding technique or tig. You won’t find much benefit doing that with mig.
Excellent Mig / sheet metal video. I have just purchased a portable stick welder. Can I accomplish the same end result with the stick, or should I invest in a mig?
No stick is more structural get a tig or MiG 👍🏻
When I was welding a panel in this morning I was thinking I should make a nozzle with a air hose hooked right to it with a second trigger
What are your thoughts on
Fiber Lazer welding. Especially if the price comes down?
I learned quite a bit from you on the MIG process. I wasn't using enough heat / voltage and still am adjusting that setting to get the proper penetration. I liked your tech. Of timing and starting up in the old weld.
I'm making my own 20 ga coupons before I start on my '05 Trailblazer.
Thanks from Milwaukee
Very glad to hear! Fiber lazer welding? I have never heard of that
Being an absolute newbie to welding, I found this to be extremely helpful. I do have a question though, I noticed you were touching/leaning on the work piece. I assume that as long as you don't touch the area to be welded with bare skin (use gloves, sleeves, jacket, etc) there is no chance of being shocked.
You can touch the piece just fine and it won’t shock you. But…. If you jump in the pool and start welding a little wet you might get a few small tingles ask me how I know 🤣🤣
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS LOL. Thanks.
When it comes to thin sheet welding with Mig, I use 0.6mm (I am in the UK) which is whatever it is in imperial, 0.23? When using this thinnest Mig welding wire, one must be careful NOT to have a long torch, so 3metres (roughly 10ft) and longer is not something I recommend. I had a torch specially made at 2m or about 6ft because it prevents birds nesting at the wire drive wheels. I do a lot of car and van repairs for our UK Ministry of Transport Test (MOT Test) which is for general safety and included structural safety of the body.
The one thing you are not mentioning but that you are doing without even knowing it, is waiting for the heat to die back before pulling the trigger again.
After wire and heat, I’ve found patience is the very next most important thing to consider. Letting that weld spot cool before adding more material (and heat) is paramount in not over heating the spot and causing burn through. This is especially true on metal that has been ground thin or is inherently thin.
In watching another restorer comment on Sheetmetal MIG work, he like you suggest a hotter weld foe shorter periods. Allows better penetration but keeps heat at bay with shorter time duration.
Maybe I missed it, but did you speak about filling blow throughs? I’ve found if you are careful slow and precise, you can accomplish this by aiming at the edges from a very shallow angle close to the plane of the metal. This will allow you to slowly build up and fill in the hole. Not easy, but possible. Oh and don’t start tacks at the joint of the two pieces. Start on one side and drag the weld quickly to the opposite side. Always start on the thickest metal imo.
** Never mind I finally watched to the end. You totally covered it. Sorry😬
Thanks for the great info as usual!
I thought we said that. But yes you are so right!! Thank you
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS You did. My bad. I should have watched the entire thing before commenting. Apologies. Great information as usual! Do you have a schedule of upcoming classes?
My challenge brother, will Dina Cengage metal for door frames. Getting a good bead penetration but not burning through and especially when I grind down my weld I don’t want to have any seams showing
Practice practice practice.
Good video give me a lot of tips.its the same with flux wire?
Honest opinion … flux wire is garbage. I forgot to mention in the video how important it is to get a welder with a bottle. The gas shielding is important.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you.i learn a lot with yoy
I spent a year welding with flux thinking it was great with good penetration, when my feeder had issues, back on the gas with a new feed wheel, so nice and smooth by comparison, less chaos
Next up! Tig Vid!
Yes we need to do one.
Great video Travis, mate I’m replacing a floor section in my ute and will be mig welding it back in, is it ok to use a 1mm gap using butt welding clamps that hold the metal together flat?
Cheers from 🇳🇿
You can but if you get little to zero gap it just makes it that much easier to weld. 👍🏻
At approx 24 you talk about heat affected zone on sheet metal.
Why not use an air nozzle underneath to "gently" blow on the bottom side and help cool it faster?
I'm not talking about 120 psi of cooling, maybe 10 psi or so to help it cool down a bit faster, but not too fast?
It will blow the gas shielding away and cause a poor weld.
35:10 Canola oil, cheap and multi purpose, stops BB's sticking and doubles on the grill for dinner. 36:50 cut the wire on 45degrees for instant melt no sputter.
Thanks for the tips and for watching.
Time is heat
Yessir
Auto darkening helmet when you can see it again weld again? And I was wondering that a little air pneumatic tool that puts that little edge so you can lay over and under would that be better? I did buy the stupid thing. 😂
The pneumatic flange tool is fine but you can’t hammer and dolly if there’s a lap joint. But yes you can do it that way with the helmet.
I have a cheap cheap tig welder without the provisions for a foot peddle and still trying to pick up welding body panels
We need to do a video on tig
Do you think in the future you'll be doing any instructional videos on TIG welding? I've not tried it myself, but I'm considering getting a multi purpose machine in the future.
Cheers John 🍻
Yes we will be doing that in the near future
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Great!!
I wish they made a wire with Bacon Smell as well.. Wrong settings, no smell... :) heheheheh
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 if they did I’d end up eating it
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS HAHAHAHAHA
amazing teaching skills Mr Silvester, i am very impressed thanks for the valuable knowledge
You are very welcome
Welding on a car is critical especially when it's structural. When I was doing more collision work all the techs had to pass an ICAR weld test to continue working on structural repairs. Amazing and scary to see guys older than me that have been working on cars for decades struggling to pass this test. My day job company sells suspension and engine cradles to the general public that need welding. I'm always curious of some people's welding skills. I've been trained in collision repair to make these repairs safe for the occupants and I'm sure these same DIYers would expect that quality from a collision shop. So it makes me wonder about the structural integrity of their welding when their classic Mustang restomod with 500+ hp hits the same streets as other drivers. I'm not cutting anyone up. I totally respect the novice. Just can't help but think of the same repair standards implied.
Oh trust me the stuff we get is scary 🤣
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
No kidding. I'm always wanting to learn too but I'm not too proud to admit my limits and ask a pro. No shame in it.
whose welding helmet do you have
Blue demon it is affordable and has a huge view I love it 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you I have 2 that I can't see out of to weld , was thinking on speedglass from 3m but they just cost to much I will look into one of those from Blue demon . love your videos keep them coming
@@michaelosborne513 thank you
I'm welding 18 gauge to a 77 model Ford with thinner prior rusty metal. So it's probably a 18 to 20. It blows holes on the 20 gauge side. Plus it's a butt weld, not an over lap. It sucks to say the least. 😂
Good luck
What is the welder set on
Do you have the exact same mig?
I weld panels all day every day & use flux-core, for reasons. Firstly, flux core runs real hot, so penetration is a given, pretty much, even on tiny tacks. Second, flux core wire at 0.8mm isn't like Mig wire at 0.8mm. Mig 0.8mm is 0.8 of solid steel. Flux core is maybe 0.4mm steel, 0.4mm flux, so you are now using super-thin wire irl - for bodywork, thinner wire is always better.
Third, flux core tolerates contamination WAAY better than Mig - it's comparable to stick welding. Mig wants very clean steel - with bodywork, you are seldom going to have that irl - there will be traces of paint, traces of filler, maybe some light rust, maybe underbody sealer residue - flux core doesn't care. Mig does, big time. Clean all you like, there will be contamination when doing panels. Mig will hate it, flux core doesn't.
It's also a softer, flatter weld bead, it grinds easier, you can weld absolute tinfoil with it - far thinner than Mig can cope with, plus the machine to run it is tiny, light, cheap as chips & requires very little power. I like all them things. I also like not having to buy & lug around big clumpy cylinders of expensive gas that are a pita.
I wouldn't use mig any more if you gave it to me for free - there are too many upsides to using flux core for bodywork. I have half a dozen real nice mig machines parked in a corner - ignored these days. I'm also kinda not with you on the "cooling the tacks" thing - IMO, and it's just my opinion, it causes more warpage than it cures. Go slower & let it cool naturally = Slow is Fast when it comes to welding bodywork. :-) Watching the glow is key - glow gone, bang in the next tack. My version of "slow" is pretty damn fast tbh - but it's just slow enough. No way am I mucking about with an airline & I weld some spendy vehicles.
I’m not a fan of flux core we have a video coming out soon as to why tig is superior
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS TIG is 100% superior, but for ham & eggs work, it's just too slow, doesn't pay.
If you want to learn more about mig welding auto body...."Fitzee's Fabrication" has some great body work videos..He's good
I love watching that guy as well
I use Tig, too many cold welds with Mig.
When welding look for the heat penetration. Mig is always smaller.
We also use Tig but if you don’t have it that’s why we made the video
I bought my MIG in 1984 and is bigger that most Honda Civic engines. I have learned to weld with it on sheet metal with out burning thru and great penetration with 0.030” wire. Mine has no drive rollers for smaller wire but also came setup for large spools. You learn to weld with what you have as I can dial my wire speed and the amps that work. Now, retired I can buy a TIG but don’t have much of a future use for it. You have a good job and can justify it, go for it.
Great video and info.
A copper plate underneath 100 o/o penetration
Great tip!
👍🏽