Goodbye stuck bolts. Hello DIY magnetic induction heater | Auto Expert John Cadogan
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
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I saw a guy yesterday that really needed one of these. He was sitting in the engine bay of his 4wd bashing the crap out of along chisel with what looked like a 5lb hammer in the direction of the exhaust manifold. Yes we need more of the stuff you want to bring us please. There are so many tools and aids that have been released in the last decade that slip by and go unknown by a lot of people. Cheers and Thank You.
I remember working in this bolt factory in my hometown. They made gigantic bolts. Like 15 cm diameter. In order to shape the heads they would put them in an induction heater. I was amazed how fast it went from being able to be handled by a person to glowing almost to the point you couldn't look at it. Induction is incredible.
Fantastic educational video, JC, more videos like this, please. There's people like me who aren't mechanical engineers like knowing things like this. Thank you, sir 🙏
Been using one this week on F250 body mounts, MAN ! This thing made all the difference burning off the 4 litres of lock tight ford put on the bolts.
I discovered Vevor after watching John’s review of their mag drill. I subsequently bought the drill which is amazing quality at that price point and so effective.
I bought one of these vevor induction heaters about 4 months ago because the drill was so good. I use it servicing all my farm equipment and vehicles. It’s been invaluable for those situations John describes. Again for the price point it’s great quality certainly cheaper and safer than using the oxy.
The workshop I’m at has one and it is a game changer when it comes to particularly exhaust studs and nuts in aluminium heads.
John, yes would like to see more of this type of content. Very informative.
When i was doing my trade back in the early 1970s, induction hardening was used in the factory i worked at for hardening motor shafts and distributor shafts and cam lobes etc. It amazed me that a shaft could literally drop through the coil and would be cherry red almost instantly. Dropping into the quench water, the shaft was hardened in seconds. Technology has come a long way - the machine i am describing was huge and had a massive electrical control cabinet to boot. The fact you can now have a handheld device (albeit lower power) for the same function is mind blowing!
Ive been following Curtis on CEE for a while now, strongly recommend that channel
Been to his shop and can confirm it's top notch! He's switched on and very skilled!
I don't think I've ever seen another youtuber with so much respect for his tools and trade.
I used be able to buy puddle gun powder for reasonable money on eBay. Then he used one in a video and the deals disappeared!
@joewiddup9753 yep that happens! I see it a fair bit! eBay, temu,Ali express and others like to play with the prices as soon as good feedback is seen. just an increase of interest of a product seems to jack the price up! Initial Browsing online often will find good prices, but search that same item a few times and watch the price rise! And that's if it hadn't sold out!
After watching your video of the vevor captive nuts? I bought the kit straight away…it’s awesome.
Keep it up old mate.
Keep up the great content John. If I don't use the tools at least I know what and why when I have that type of problem. All of this helps me understand the need for a professional with a large selection of equipment including safety training. Many thanks
I’ve had one of these mini ducters for probably 20 years now. They are great time savers especially when it comes to body to frame bolts, the alternative is to strip out the entire interior so when you heat the bolts up with a torch you don’t set the interior on fire. With the inductor you don’t have anywhere near the same fire risk. They work great for heating bearings up as well. It’s not good for a bearing to put a flame to it, especially in smaller bearing when you can’t heat the inner race directly and have to cook the rollers and the cage. Certainly not the go to tool for all frozen fasteners, most of the time your going to use the torches but it’s definitely worth getting a mini ducter for these fire sensitive ones.
It would be great to have video's like this all the time just like Adam Savage on Tested.
An experienced person knows how far they can “push the envelope one way or another”. Those are golden words suitable for all occupations.
This was helpful for me, a long time "Garage Fiddler". The induction heater looks really helpful in some situations.
Would like to see more in this vein.
My mate have been fixing these for a few years now when they go wrong or mainly abused! here in Norfolk England
I live in the rusty north east US. I built one of these because they used to be really out of reach for just doing stuff at home. I've used it so much. They have come down in price to the point it would be better for me to buy one than build another.
They are one of the most handy things I reach for. More so than my torches for most times.
These get 12 out of 10 from me, or 6 out of 5 stars, if you prefer. I bought one to to take apart a >30y project vehicle and it's been amazing. The heating is precise and controlled. Plus you can heat the fastener, then squirt WD-40 or similar to help and reheat as required. That the heat is safe and controlled is brilliant. Most of the time with project vehicles the fasteners are disposable but the parts are irreplacable and it's generally these that you want to preserve. It can be necessary to loosen then tighten the fastener a couple of time with problematic parts, but this induction coil heater is one of the best tools for many applications. Sadly the VEVOR example isn't available in my location, I have an equivalent.
VEVOR do sell the coils here though, which is handy as most of mine are toast.
Good video!!
Used one of these recently in the states. Worked on all but one faster. Thanks for the detailed explanation.
Re shocking a stuck fastener.
1946 My dad did his National Service in the Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers (REME) (He luckily missed WWII by eighteen months).
His instructor would tell the tale of when he (the instructor) and five other similarly novice blokes were trying to undo the securing ring of a Spitfire propeller off the end of the shaft.
Three blokes were holding onto the propeller blade, the other three blokes were holding onto a four foot long 'C' spanner and they were see-sawing back and forth trying to undo the damn thing..
Experienced mechanic happened by and saw the comedy. Saying not a word, he picked up a not-very-big hammer and a drift, smacked the ring and the six novices all fell about on the floor as it released.
Thanks for the information & yes I would love to see some more of these amazing tools that the average person would probably not even realise are available, including budget versions because not everyone has a tax deductible tool budget 😂😂😂
Love your work, keep it up.
Very interesting as usual, explaining why the air moves into the propane torch would be good. When l studied fluid power the first statement the lecturer made was "there is no such thing as suction".
Correct. But we're not in a lecture theatre, are we? Technically there's only flow from high to low pressure.
Induction cooking is amazing, the lack of waste heat in summer is great help - seeing 240-250V very common around me - lots of pv around. does wonders for making quick toast. not so good for the 2 filament light bulbs left around the house though -
Looks like a new set of Knipex tools are coming my way. I love new shiny things, usually golf inspired, but I'll settle for a new tool.
Thanks, John.
John, any metal will react to AC induction but metals that have higher electrical resistance heat up best. High frequency AC kHz level required, driven by an inverter.
Very nice. I would use it to heat up then quench my sharp tools. I go through wire cutters. My wife has a crafting business which involves me cutting thousands of 16 gauge iron wires. I sharpen the various cutters with diamond sharpeners, but it would be better all around if they were hardened.
Hey John, I bought the Inductor II 15 years ago, that is the Chinese copy of it but I'm sure it will work the same, that unit is amazing for heating so much, and the fact that it doesn't heat anything else around it is the key reason I bought one, always having to remove rusty exhaust manifold bolts in tight places, it can't be beat....love it!
I found this particular missive today, in the words of the inimitable Sgt. Schultz, "Very interesting" . . . thanks John, well done. Brand new stuff learned today by this brown bear. I feel another unknown unknown has been conquered. Induction heater and a nut splitter - in this universe - who'd have thunk?!
I often end up grinding down nuts with a grinder then die grinder on trucks. It's great fun, I've never had a nut splitter work in my 18 years in the trade and I did want it to work.
yes, moar plz - but less carbohydrates!
I have an almost antique 2004 Buick LeSabre with corroded brake lines and the steel flare nuts are galled into the aluminum block of the ABS proportioning valve.
I brought the homeowner's propane cylinder and torch head to the job but did not like the hazard environment. Brake fluid (flammable glycol) all over the place. A small fire extinguisher and a light fiberglass blanket did not make me feel warm and fuzzy.
Then, I discovered this tool and immediately bought a used one from E-bay.
Thank you for the confidence - 2-3 seconds a shot should do it for me!
Fantastic tool, thank you for the in depth review.
Because of the cost I've been on a quest to find an example of a conversion from an household cooker plate. Maybe something similar to the Vevor device.
Thats an awesome bit of kit,thanks mate
Transformers are mostly oil for insulation and cooling but can get air type and sf6 gas insulated also. Recently assembled a 275kv to 33kv 300MVa transformer. Main tank is 205 tonne by itself and takes 70,000l of oil.
Coincidentally, I bought the same magnetic induction heater and it arrived today.
Or you can use a stick welder, weld a nut on top of the existing nut on the outside, Once it glows the nut will simply undo. Alternatively you can weld the nut onto the stud if you want to remove the stud. I’ve seen this work on really old heavily rusted on water gate valves. It’s not as safe as no sparks, but it gets the job done.
I've often used my old 1960's era 500W Birko Soldering Iron in a similar way (originally marketed for. amongst other things I think for brass copper radiator repairs). Slower no doubt but still effective.
I want one just to play with it, drag out all my metal round bar & bend them into shape
The induction gadget is brilliant no flames less damage faster results .
That induction heater looks nice - I've been seeing them getting used in the blacksmith hobby space now, too. In a pinch I once used my stick welder to loosen a nut by laying a bead around the nut until it got very hot - worked a treat. Very happy to see more ghetto engineering content that I can get my head around rather than the stuff that goes down at CEE which I can only marvel at. ps loved that little fixture table - I'm going to steal that idea.
Yes please! I love tool time!
Essential watching mate! Greetings from blighty. 👍🏻
you keep selling me on stuff from Vevor right when I need it. Stuck exhaust bolt. 333 dollary doos is a bit steep but honestly, my little propane pencil torch, which I swear by usually just doesn't have the goose for the job on this occasion
Excellent video, very keen to see more getto engineering tips and tricks.
I'm looking forward to testing one on my Prince Albert.
Should be memorable...
@@AutoExpertJC It would probably be more like a scream
@@AutoExpertJC It will probably be more like a scream
@@JimboXX78 anythings a dildo of you're brave enough.
Yes I love it I like learning and I love your channel as you explain everything in layman's terms
I love to see more of stuff like this
I do enjoy these videos.
Good stuff to know, honestly. I like the idea of the induction heater, though I'm not as fond of the price tag... I'm in 'Murica, and those things are about 200USD (~300AUD) on the low end. The lack of excess (and uncontrollable) heat is a _huge_ plus, and I find it worthwhile to look into getting one (and I will, eventually, since it's too good an idea to pass up). But at that kind of investment, I think you'd need to be dealing with stuck and rusty bolts fairly frequently to justify it. Not everyone will...which means the nut-splitters seem better for most applications just due to affordability if you're not dealing with rust and stuck fasteners all that often.
Well done John
That’s the most impressive propane torch I’ve ever seen. How much thrust does it produce? 😊
Saturn III
A while ago, you mentioned that you might do a vid on drill sharpening. That would be really useful.
John he love factor for this is 10 out of 10. From the old dude in the back of the lab.
Good price for a user friendly finished product, you can diy cheaper ones but its a bit cobbled
The fasteners still sticking out aren’t the problem, it’s the broken ones that are completely secluded within another part.
The only thing I’ve worked on where the induction heater giant would even work is pad bolts on a tracked excavator or dozer. And those are quick and easy with a torch.
1kw😂
230vac😂
Aluminum 😂
Still the funny little short guy syndrome.
Your knowledge of physics is astoundingly absent😂
Thank you for making me feel superior. Priceless!
Heavy diesel mechanic for 20 years, never needed one but could be handy tho
Green.. go the red!.. these are a good idea so much easier than a blow torch
actually good idea for a vid John, Thread Lockers
Just like the Manscaper tool advertised on this channel - this tool will Harden Your Tool
The I H is something I have been wanting but its for work not my own equipment.
I did buy one of those nut splitters with my own money I think a customer pocketed it when I wasn't looking.
The first I H i saw was back in 2006;
A metal base with a heavy cable going to a "wand" you touch to the end of the stuck fastener.
Puts current through the stud or started the process of heating..
Expensive and one of the workers blew it out somehow and they went back to the oxy propane torch.
I think I tried using a stick welder set low and put the electrode on the stud to warm it can't remember if it was very successful.
Main thing I use me my induction heater is on brass about 99% of the time. Works great.
Thanks John.
Awesome John!
Imduction nut heater, hmm, going to cost lots of money what with different length heads and different shaped heads to go round corners. But everybody's got propane and mapp already ! And of course we all watch Eric O, the gas axe king. So what can go wrong ?!
100% to more of the ghetto engineering!
Learning is life mate.
👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼
Vevor must saturate the UA-camr market with whatever particular gizmo they happen to promote at any time and BOOM it's on every channel.
They must give away shitloads of this stuff.
Not that I'm complaining.
I like seeing different people review an item to get their various takes on it.
And overall Vevor seem to make good products for their price point.
I've already bought several of the items John (and others) have reviewed and I'm pretty happy with them.
So Vevor must be getting a favourable return on investment to keep doing it.
Next up, I predict the Vevor Hydraulic Knockout punch set.
Tried to buy from vevor
They cancelled my order saying couldn't deliver
Brother inlaw one street behind made the same order. Turned up fine
Wouldn't explain
Vevor has some good gear
@@garreysellars5525 Strange. I've never had any problem.
I was just working with ChatGPT on how to build an induction furnace today. How the fuck did I not think to Google if something like this already existed?!
Thank fuck you're here to fix everyone's fat cave!!!
DIY induction furnace: What could go wrong?
The Induction Cookstove is a perfect example, the pot gets hot not the Stove.
Yes please john that would be nice 👍
Yes pls. Keep this (trade type ) stuff coming ..
Nice Toy for a Workshop .
I have a nice commercial induction heater in bits. The power transistors have fragged gates as a result of a a shitty euro plug adapter.
Anyway. Simple enough power electronics with a caveat. The main drive inside is a half bridge inverter that runs at rectified mains(line) voltage. no step up or down here.
The inverted output is a far higher frequency from mains. As i understand for these devices about 70kHz.
That is pumped via a choke into a parallel LC tuned circuit. The coil you place at the subject is the L (inductor) part of this circuit.
Your subject forms the core of the inductor. Changing the coupling (position) or core material changes the value of L, and thus the resonant frequency of the tuned circuit. As this resonance changes the drive electronics ideally want to follow this change. The budget induction heaters don't do this.
This is the main reason for having a core present before powering up. Upset tuned circuits are unstable and without enough control bad things happen.
In the UK, We still have 240volts. This is despite the paperwork exercise in changing to 230 volts.
What comes out the wall is the same as it always was but to permit the lower voltage they fudged the lower tolerance. I don't recall the figures but it was something like 240v +5%,-10%. Now its -15%.
Its not unusual to have 250v at the outlet, in this 230 volt world.
Another entertaining video. Thanks.
I heard about a chap heating a shackle bolt on a rear leafspring to get it loose, heated up the fuel tank, which bubbled over, set the car on fire and burnt down the entire workshop/business. Doh.
If a nut is just that little bit too stubborn I remember the sage words 'can't be tight if it's a liquid' and go find my oxy set. (sure the ongoing bottle rental is annoying but less so than the stuck nuts you can then give zero shits about) Though, that there fancy inductiony heater tool'd do that too now wouldn't it? Food for thought.
Looks like a great way to heat up your sausages in the garage ( personal indoors mini barbi )
Steel sausages only...
@@AutoExpertJC
High iron John. 😅
I just wish mine had a flexible lead option for hard to get spots
Yes. More tool time.
Mild steel goes cherry red at 723 degrees Celsius.
Not 722?
@@AutoExpertJC I recall having 723 drummed into me … I probably can’t spell it but, that’s the eutectic line where the metal goes from a base centre cubic structure to face centre cubic structure allowing it to be deformed/reformed etc.
I’m not going to check my textbooks to see which of us it right. I only thought to interject as often you can only see the red glow below 650-700 degrees if you are not in a well lit environment & there is an appreciable difference between 500 and 650-700. But I also accept the counterpoint of “who cares”
7:40 Yeah!!!! Go Bono!!!
Yep more cool stuff
Shows us a bit of carbon arc sculpting.
Starting to wonder if John has access to my Google search history. Was looking for one of these about a week ago.
I've been stalking you for years, dude...
Multi grips to do up the gas fittings
Really john
They're not multigrips...
@@AutoExpertJC
Sorry John made the comment before you showed them properly
Knipex at good tools 👍
this thing looks cool and handy but...
how does it work on a fastener not sitting isolated on your work bench.
like a recessed fastener on the engine casing or other stuck in place that you cannot simply surround with coils?
Surrounding it with coils is non-negotiable.
Won't fit all seized or broken bolts
Different situation
Different methods
Sometimes you may need to drill the stud and then gas heat
Never easy
I like this stuff.
@5:40 you mention that they only work on ferromagnetic materials. Wondering why, and if, it should work on other electrically conductive materials as well? Is the frequency wrong? Seems like eddy currents should be setup just as easily in non-magnetic materials and that heating should work nearly as well?? Comments?
Too bad John, you didn't show us the temperature of the fastener.
You absolutely can heat non-ferrous metals with induction heating. In fact you can melt them. Eddy currents dude!
Thank God you posted this today John, I couldn't of gone another day without having this information carry me forward for the rest of the week!!!
🤣🤣🤣 Okay, I know somebody out there needs this information, but I just have to make a sarcastic comment.
couldn't have
I mistook it for sincerity...
...for roughly 0.0001 seconds.
@@AutoExpertJC Wow you've a better stopwatch than I !
That's fast...
❤
Great stuff but for showing tools you should get an old wrecker engine to do a real world demonstration.
I enjoy the "Ghetto engineering" stuff. Disregard or not as you see fit.
CANT BE TIGHT IF IT'S LIQUID
you need one of these to get the stinky rod out of your hot water heater , cause they red loktite them in to make you buy a new one . unfortunately the induction heater costs $1000/ $3000 and a new hot water heater costs $700 . so unless you are going to use this p.o.s. a lot it is not worth it .
Hang on a minute, are you trying to be a script writer for Electroboom by suggesting that the coil never be plugged into an electrical outlet directly. That guy is like, here hold my beer, with a monobrow.
i am falling asleep
It's the oxy...
😂one of the best JC
Great, another tool to buy. Keep these videos coming, its only money.
Little bit of soul?😊
Don't mind spending money for the man cave, even if i only use the tool once every 6 months.
@@danielwetkin4671 Every 6 months? Wow. I have tools that fit into the category of "that will come in handy one day" and thus still have their original packaging intact!
Yes please John, more of this, I learn a lot from your videos
This tool is an absolute saviour when doing bodywork. There are many issues you are fighting when trying to take dents out of a panel.
Firstly a "hump" or high spot that you only discover after you have started filling used to be a total disaster, however just heat it with the pad attachment of the induction heater until things smoke a bit then just tap the high spot down and let it cool. Trying to do that with a propane torch destroys the surrounding filler.
The other issue the heater can solve is when you end up with "tin canning", heating the stress points and letting them cool can relieve the stress in the panel and solve the problem.
Hi John, I think a video where you visit CEE in QLD would be great. Kurtis and you doing a shop tour and nerding out on all things Engineering would make a good video.