Here's an idea; you could have stenciled the stars on your frog tape and cut them out with an exacto knife and laid them out exactly how you wanted and stained over them, and peeled them off after the stain dried.
I do these kinds of projects full time. Go to a sign shop and ask them for the star decals in a masking vinyl. You don’t have to put them on one at a time, they can cut the decals out and transfer tape it for you so that they are all perfectly placed. Then you just have to stick on the sticker after you cut the frog tape. It can actually be the exact same dimensions as the portion you cut. You stick on the decals and peel off the transfer tape then stand. Sure it’s a pain to have to pull off the decals of each individual star afterwards but it will save you a few hours because you won’t have to route them out. Also, avid cornhole players may make a stink of the surface of the board has an area that would cause the bag to slide differently. I used to work at a sign shop. If you have any questions or I need to go more in depth (anyone reading this) let me know
Also want to say it’s worth noting that you don’t have to go to a sign shop. Anyone with a cricut can cut this out of vinyl for you. Search on Facebook through your friends because a lot of people have them to make t shirts and custom decals for yeti cups and what not as a side hustle. You could probably find someone to cut them for you for cheaper and quicker than a sign shop. You may even have a close friend who does it, but either way your supporting people within your own personal network and you can get experience in forming some valuable business-like relationships. Just my 2¢
I like what you did I use two fender washers for each leg, no spreader, 12" legs rounded each end, set thickness of 6" comb sq from corner, mark centers w 45 of speed sq., mark arc w compas, secure w nylon insert lock nuts, epoxy shoulders of carrage bolts on insertion, and tighten to desired resistance. I add 3" door hinges to one side, repacing 1/4" hinge pins w 1/4" eye bolt, add two spring latches to opposite side along w a large gate handle. Weight is around 39pounds using 1/2" Birch plywood and fingher joint 1×4 frame. I glue and pin nail the top in place. I I really like the idea of using a router to cut the 6" hole. I really like the finish you do. I look forward to seeing more of your work. Thank you.
For the legs, set up a combination square to measure down and across to find the center. You can then use your compass to draw the arc (instead of using a cup). Of course, the compass also marks the spot for drilling the hole for the bolt.
Your boards turned out great. The only major criticism I have is the union is on the wrong side. Because the boards are technically vertical while playing, the union goes on the upper left.If you're going to display them horizontally instead, then your's would be correct. As far as the stars go, after doing a few boards the same way you did with the Dremel, I decided never to do it that way again. Now I go down to my local printer and have her print me a union that is 18 1/4" wide which is the exact size union for a 2' wide flag. It costs about $2. I tape off the entire board and then tape my printed union paper to the correct spot. I then get comfortable and use a utility knife to cut out each star making sure to cut through the paper, the tape AND the wood just a little.(You could use an X-acto knife but I found a utility knife cuts straighter, is more comfortable, and the blades last longer) I then cut the stripes to the correct widths (1 27/32") and then peel everything off that I want stained. I use the same gel stain you used, but I've also used "regular" stain. If you want to use regular stain you have to cut the wood with a utility knife even deeper to make sure it doesn't bleed. You also have to remove all the tape so you can see where the lines are and you have to be VERY careful not to get it on another section or you're screwed. I don't suggest it though as it's too time consuming. Thanks for the tip on the clear. I've used a lot of different clear coats, but not the one you mentioned so maybe I'll try that one and see how it goes. Sorry about the long post, just trying to give you some things to think about. Otherwise, great job and great video. Also, like everyone else, I love the table saw setup...
I use several coats on my boards as well and they end up super slick. My heights are correct in front and back. My bags slide off by simply placing them on. I have to give a final sand which then dulls it up a bit.
BronkBuilt I use a semi gloss finish at MAX. Satin is preferred. Not as shiny and or slippery. I sand it with 220 max grit between coats if I need it smoother. Spar urathane is the best result I’ve had. Give that a go instead for all of the coats.
Awesome boards. Just a thought on when you drill your holes, place a scrap piece of wood on the exit side and that will prevent the blow out when the drill bit exit the wood.
I've been using a rubber stick for years. It cleans all of my sanding paper as well as belts like new and gives them new life. Saves me a ton of money and time. You can get them online. They come in (I'm guessing here) 2"x2"x6" stick. Good luck!
Once you had the legs made, I would suggest using some 1/4" hardboard to make a template. If you plan to build more in the future, you can use a flush trim bit to round off the legs and your hole won't require any measurements.
Wyatt McCollum it was a great investment and it taught me a lot. Using a cheap $100 table saw and then making my own fence and rail system for it was the best idea I had. It was completely moveable with a 4’x8’ working top that allowed me to do literally anything I wanted and I could move it out of the shop to do work outside too. Really fun and functional design! Good luck making yours! Lemme know how it turns out!
Nice boards. I was interested in how you do the stars but will continue to look for a method that does not have all that mini-routing. One note on the carriage bolt - I have found that if you hold the head on the outside edge of a pliers and keep it from rotating any at all, by the time you get the square of the bolt pulled into the wood and the pliers slips off, the square is seated and will not turn. Plus, I always use nylon stainless nuts, have never had issues, problems or returns. Thanks for the video, keep cranking them out.
I just found this video and WOW ! That is some very impressive work in all respects. The construction, design work, staining and even 5he video editing..... awesome video and those boards look amazing.
Awesome looking boards! I make boards all the time but don’t have all the fancy equipments you have. One thing of advice I can say is that there is a format that you can precut the legs and holes. Boards come out perfect every time right at 12 inches.
A good suggestion would be a way to attach them together for transportation. It would be cool to have a set that has retractable wheels that would roll like a suitcase
velcro along the inside corners and a cheap easy way to attach them together. It's not "pro" but it's effective. Then some rope handles on frames to carry them.
You could also use an old tennis shoe. If you press the sole to the sandpaper, the rubber cleans between the grit. Just don't use a shoe you plan on wearing anymore.
I have also used a wire brush to clean my sandpaper however there is a product by Woodstock it’s an abrasive belt cleaner woodcrafter sells it I don’t know who else does. The corn hole boards are awesome I have made some flags that are similar I think I might try a corn hole board very good explanation on building one thank you
Drop the leg brace down some and add holes for drinks to sit. Or add a score board via metal strip with magnets or drill holes using golf tees to keep score. Great job!
Great job!! 👍🏼👍🏼 They actually make a cleaning tool for the belt sander! Looks like a big rubber eraser! They work real well and won’t cause potential damage to your belt! I am going to make mine and use the torch to pull out the wood grain! Great job
Bret Lambky thanks for the insight! I’ll be grabbing one soon! I’m also going to try to get a few different designs built with a torch implemented in the build. Let me know how it turns out!
Nice! I love them they turned out great! Everyone has an opinion I suppose and this video is a year old but I think you did great. We all have our own way of building things, your way worked out well!
If you have a old tennis shoe, sneaker use that on the belt sander and the disc as well makes them almost new again. Or just buy a belt dresser on amazon. I been using sneakers for years. Great work. Thanks
They look really nice! I wish everyone would also post how many man hours it took to build them. I was pretty much all in until the stars. That's got to be labor intensive to Dremel out 100 stars. I had the audio muted, so I don't know if he sold these, or what he would charge if he was making these for sale, along with the bags. I'm thinking these would have to go for $400 a set with the labor involved, just to make a little bit of cash. With the bags and materials, you're into it ~$175-$200, maybe more. I like contrast, so if was building these, I would leave the frame and legs unstained and simply clear coat them or a whitewash stain to let the top stand out more. Nice job, though, they'll be a big hit with a nice, frosty PBR or two!
I suggest drilling a pilot hole for the 3/8" leg bolts. Try finding a second drill for this purpose, saving you time. Personally, I'm not a fan of the pocket hole tear out problem. You could try another form of connecting the top.
Nice job!For unclogging sandpaper, try rubbing the belt (while it’s running) with synthetic wine corks. Lowes has some ‘Lowes only’ Minwax products. I’m not sure if the spar varnish is one of them. Lastly, after driving ¼ diameter lag bolts into 2” x 4”s, I went out and picked up set of nut drivers for my hand drill. Big time saver.
John Gregg thanks! I’ll give that a try. I run through sandpaper like it’s nobody’s business lol. That is a great idea. I’ll have to pick one up! Thanks for the tip!
Nice work.. I like the boards and the best picture that could ever be displayed. A carriage bolt washer would prevent the use of vise-grips on the bolt head. Also threading the nylock prior to install makes that first thread a little easier on the washer. Just saying because I've been there. Thanks for posting.
If you are standing to the right of the board while throwing, the stars are to the upper left. Maybe that was the pov he was trying to capture. Or maybe you fellas just missed the point here. Who cares... they are cornhole boards.
I know this is an old comment, but D V is correct. The Union is always displayed in the upper left as viewed. In the case of the boards, as viewed would be the perspective of the player(s) throwing TO it. I can see why the flag was oriented on the boards the way they are, when the board is on its side the flag is correct. It’s an honest mistake, one that there’s no way around really. If you orient the flag as he has then it’s incorrect while in play, but if you orient the flag to correctly display while playing, then it’s upside down if horizontal… The boards are certainly amazing, no disrespect meant, just trying to render the honor our flag deserves.
Add a reel with string under one of the boards. Cut the string at the proper distance so you never need a tape measure when your ready to play. I run mine out the center in front but the reel is in the back for easy spinning. Use a stopper/tab to keep the string from pulling through. My reel was from a old ice fishing pole.
Really nice looking! I wonder if you've considered cutting your own stars mask using a Cricut machine. It seems like it would save you quite a bit of effort in "cutting" the stars out with the dremel or router.
Joeyhohl19 I’ve thought about it. I actually make a different drink holder/scoreboard that I found from Rouge Builder. I’ll be showing that off in my next video
If I can make a recommendation it would be to buy sticker stars off Amazon they sell 500 stars and the 1.5" stars are a perfect fit and similar to the tape just peel them off as long as you use a gel stain.
James Barlow Jr. thank you! I recommend using cabinet grade plywood. Less sanding and nicer finish. I have a new video in the works right now that will explain what I mean. And if you have a vinyl cutter, that would knock your production time down pretty quick too.
Brett Minaker thank you! I built the table kinda off my head. I looked at a few videos and ended up tweaking it myself. I needed to upgrade the fence on the table so I followed this guys video: ua-cam.com/video/FIhMBYwm9E8/v-deo.html. Bought the plans from him and made it in about a day. Made it much more accurate and way more efficient. ** I actually just sold the table yesterday for a big upgrade and shop change up **
The boards look awesome. I don’t think anyone would deny that, but how slick are those things when you are using them? I would think you would have a ton of bags slide off the back end.
i wouldnt use the center piece between the two legs so that if you are on uneven ground you can freely move both legs to where u need them to make the board level because even a inch or two of a down slope will piss you off when trying to throw
The star spacing information would be killer I also bought the same stencil and can not figure out the correct spacing. I'm sure I'm over thinking it but any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
You need a belt cleaner , it'd a type of rubber /sponge material ,from Harbor freight works great on all types of sand paper. They are located on the bottom shelf with the sanding disk or sand paper ,great video
Nice Job Anyone with a vinyl cutter can cut and weed the star stencil for you. Especially if you find the file for them that is the exact size. Of course, they can size it for you also.. But, they cut the vinyl, weed out everything but the stars, and apply transfer tape to the stars.. Ask them to use the lowest pressure transfer tape they have. IE.. Easy to peel off. Then, do everything you do, but, wait until the first coat of poly is on the area where the stars go (good place for a good stick of the stars, and peel the heavy backing sheet and start straight on one edge and start putting it down with a credit card, bondo spreader, etc, while you roll the backing off.. Then, carefully pull the transfer tape off at a good backward angle and the stars should stay right where you want them.. Then, just put the rest of the coats on and your done.. Cut some serious time off of your builds.. They look great..
Which Kreg corner clamp did you use. The only one I can find says 1 “ max material thickness. So I’m guessing that it wouldn’t work for the 1 1/2” 2x4. Great project. Keep up the great work
Awesome job! Alot of work in that for sure. Would you mind telling me how much space is in between each strip of tape? Or what measurement you put each mark. Sorry i just didn't understand in the video.
Someone is going to buy some of these and not realize how much work went into them. Beautiful.
Out of the hundreds of Cornhole videos i have seen on UA-cam, I honestly like how you built your the best.
Eric Williams hey thank you! I really appreciate it! 🤘
I agree!
Agreed
Here's an idea; you could have stenciled the stars on your frog tape and cut them out with an exacto knife and laid them out exactly how you wanted and stained over them, and peeled them off after the stain dried.
Thats what I was thinking too.
Or have vinyl stickers cut
You did real good man. You explained it real good for somebody that didn't really know you did good.
I do these kinds of projects full time. Go to a sign shop and ask them for the star decals in a masking vinyl. You don’t have to put them on one at a time, they can cut the decals out and transfer tape it for you so that they are all perfectly placed. Then you just have to stick on the sticker after you cut the frog tape. It can actually be the exact same dimensions as the portion you cut. You stick on the decals and peel off the transfer tape then stand. Sure it’s a pain to have to pull off the decals of each individual star afterwards but it will save you a few hours because you won’t have to route them out. Also, avid cornhole players may make a stink of the surface of the board has an area that would cause the bag to slide differently. I used to work at a sign shop. If you have any questions or I need to go more in depth (anyone reading this) let me know
Also want to say it’s worth noting that you don’t have to go to a sign shop. Anyone with a cricut can cut this out of vinyl for you. Search on Facebook through your friends because a lot of people have them to make t shirts and custom decals for yeti cups and what not as a side hustle. You could probably find someone to cut them for you for cheaper and quicker than a sign shop. You may even have a close friend who does it, but either way your supporting people within your own personal network and you can get experience in forming some valuable business-like relationships. Just my 2¢
I use an old sneaker sole and rub my belt sander while it's running and it cleans the belt really good
Beautifully made and well crafted. The finish and frame (especially the support between the legs) give it a pro look.
Kudos to your attention to detail and craftsmanship. A true joy to watch.
I like what you did
I use two fender washers for each leg, no spreader, 12" legs rounded each end, set thickness of 6" comb sq from corner, mark centers w 45 of speed sq., mark arc w compas, secure w nylon insert lock nuts, epoxy shoulders of carrage bolts on insertion, and tighten to desired resistance.
I add 3" door hinges to one side, repacing 1/4" hinge pins w 1/4" eye bolt, add two spring latches to opposite side along w a large gate handle. Weight is around 39pounds using 1/2" Birch plywood and fingher joint 1×4 frame. I glue and pin nail the top in place. I I really like the idea of using a router to cut the 6" hole. I really like the finish you do. I look forward to seeing more of your work.
Thank you.
Neil Hendricks awesome advice. Thank you sir! More videos are up and on the way 🤘
Now those are some super sweet Cornhole boards. I'm very impressed man.
Doug Siple thank you! Much appreciated 🤙
We have learned that if you put a washer between the inside legs and the boards it makes the legs smoother to pull in and out
Absolutely good input thank you!
I was about to comment the same thing. Also keeps the paint or stain on the legs and sides from rubbing off
And don’t use locking nuts at first
@@rewsisco2289 yeah I use butterfly nuts.
For the legs, set up a combination square to measure down and across to find the center. You can then use your compass to draw the arc (instead of using a cup). Of course, the compass also marks the spot for drilling the hole for the bolt.
Your boards turned out great. The only major criticism I have is the union is on the wrong side. Because the boards are technically vertical while playing, the union goes on the upper left.If you're going to display them horizontally instead, then your's would be correct. As far as the stars go, after doing a few boards the same way you did with the Dremel, I decided never to do it that way again. Now I go down to my local printer and have her print me a union that is 18 1/4" wide which is the exact size union for a 2' wide flag. It costs about $2. I tape off the entire board and then tape my printed union paper to the correct spot. I then get comfortable and use a utility knife to cut out each star making sure to cut through the paper, the tape AND the wood just a little.(You could use an X-acto knife but I found a utility knife cuts straighter, is more comfortable, and the blades last longer) I then cut the stripes to the correct widths (1 27/32") and then peel everything off that I want stained. I use the same gel stain you used, but I've also used "regular" stain. If you want to use regular stain you have to cut the wood with a utility knife even deeper to make sure it doesn't bleed. You also have to remove all the tape so you can see where the lines are and you have to be VERY careful not to get it on another section or you're screwed. I don't suggest it though as it's too time consuming. Thanks for the tip on the clear. I've used a lot of different clear coats, but not the one you mentioned so maybe I'll try that one and see how it goes. Sorry about the long post, just trying to give you some things to think about. Otherwise, great job and great video. Also, like everyone else, I love the table saw setup...
I use several coats on my boards as well and they end up super slick. My heights are correct in front and back. My bags slide off by simply placing them on. I have to give a final sand which then dulls it up a bit.
BronkBuilt what type of finish are you using?
@@TradesmenGarage 1 set polysilicon (spelling?) 1 set gloss polyurethane, 1 set satin polyurethane. All same issue. Takes many games to finally fix.
BronkBuilt I use a semi gloss finish at MAX. Satin is preferred. Not as shiny and or slippery. I sand it with 220 max grit between coats if I need it smoother. Spar urathane is the best result I’ve had. Give that a go instead for all of the coats.
Awesome boards. Just a thought on when you drill your holes, place a scrap piece of wood on the exit side and that will prevent the blow out when the drill bit exit the wood.
I've been using a rubber stick for years. It cleans all of my sanding paper as well as belts like new and gives them new life. Saves me a ton of money and time.
You can get them online. They come in (I'm guessing here) 2"x2"x6" stick. Good luck!
I was very impressed with these boards. I said WOW multiple times.
Haha thank you! I cussed a few times in the process of making them lol.
Once you had the legs made, I would suggest using some 1/4" hardboard to make a template. If you plan to build more in the future, you can use a flush trim bit to round off the legs and your hole won't require any measurements.
Meh.........just kidding. My son and I are blown away. You've inspired us. Awesome job. Thanks for video.
johneroyale thank you! Now go give it a try!
Nice job; you can level the braces and cut 3 inch holes in them to make cup holders for another feature, Great job,
Would love to see a video on how you made that extension table for your table saw that’s badass!
Wyatt McCollum haha ya I wish I was into recording my work back then. Since I have sold it and upgraded my shop a lot. 😬
TradesmenGarage Good for you! I think I’ll try to design something similar that’s such a cool concept
Wyatt McCollum it was a great investment and it taught me a lot. Using a cheap $100 table saw and then making my own fence and rail system for it was the best idea I had. It was completely moveable with a 4’x8’ working top that allowed me to do literally anything I wanted and I could move it out of the shop to do work outside too. Really fun and functional design! Good luck making yours! Lemme know how it turns out!
Very nicely done...I think I'll work on these over the 4th of July holiday, fitting. Thanks for the vid!
Thank you! Good luck!
You can also use your air compressor to blow the sand paper off to it works really good
To clean your sanding belt or disc, use the sole of an old shoe. Works great and it’s free.
Nice boards. I was interested in how you do the stars but will continue to look for a method that does not have all that mini-routing. One note on the carriage bolt - I have found that if you hold the head on the outside edge of a pliers and keep it from rotating any at all, by the time you get the square of the bolt pulled into the wood and the pliers slips off, the square is seated and will not turn. Plus, I always use nylon stainless nuts, have never had issues, problems or returns. Thanks for the video, keep cranking them out.
I just left a comment about it. If you have questions let me know. It will save you hours.
I bet you could get some stars made out of some sort of frog tape and stain around them. Beautiful job!
They make a big rubber eraser for cleaning sanding belts. It helps prolong belt life! Rocker may sell it.
You can also use the soles of old work boots
I know Harbor Freight does~
I just found this video and WOW ! That is some very impressive work in all respects. The construction, design work, staining and even 5he video editing..... awesome video and those boards look amazing.
Thank you very much!
I’m in Central Florida. If I was closer, I’d buy a set of those !!
Awesome looking boards! I make boards all the time but don’t have all the fancy equipments you have. One thing of advice I can say is that there is a format that you can precut the legs and holes. Boards come out perfect every time right at 12 inches.
Kodi Brunner thanks! Ya I’ve looked at a few different way an I’m gonna try a precut method this next time. 👍
Your detail with the Union stars was amazing.
Thank you 🤙
A good suggestion would be a way to attach them together for transportation. It would be cool to have a set that has retractable wheels that would roll like a suitcase
velcro along the inside corners and a cheap easy way to attach them together. It's not "pro" but it's effective. Then some rope handles on frames to carry them.
They do make water based stain where you can get it in red, white, and blue as well, this is neat though.
Those came out great. Nice work!!!!
They turned out Awesome. Great work
Awesome video!! Plain old stuff you can get easily at the home store too!!!
Nice boards! For cleaning sandpaper, use a sandpaper eraser. They sell them for $8-$10 at Lowe’s or Home Depot.
labonterobert thank you! I will definitely be looking from some tomorrow! Thanks for the advice 🤙
Yes what he said.
You could also use an old tennis shoe. If you press the sole to the sandpaper, the rubber cleans between the grit. Just don't use a shoe you plan on wearing anymore.
I have also used a wire brush to clean my sandpaper however there is a product by Woodstock it’s an abrasive belt cleaner woodcrafter sells it I don’t know who else does. The corn hole boards are awesome I have made some flags that are similar I think I might try a corn hole board very good explanation on building one thank you
Drop the leg brace down some and add holes for drinks to sit. Or add a score board via metal strip with magnets or drill holes using golf tees to keep score. Great job!
Ya ive done a few like that, another scoreboard/drink holder version is in my other video!
Great job!! 👍🏼👍🏼 They actually make a cleaning tool for the belt sander! Looks like a big rubber eraser! They work real well and won’t cause potential damage to your belt! I am going to make mine and use the torch to pull out the wood grain! Great job
Bret Lambky thanks for the insight! I’ll be grabbing one soon! I’m also going to try to get a few different designs built with a torch implemented in the build. Let me know how it turns out!
TradesmenGarage I love the flags! I am thinking about flags smaller scale for other applications! Keep up the great job!!
Also a sanding belt eraser is a must to revive a clogged belt
Wow!! That came out great!
Could you use star stickers like you do the frog tape?? Looks amazing!!
Wow, that was a lot of work!! Great Idea, thanks for sharing.
Those are beautiful. Just curious why you put the holes through the stars and not on the other end?
Nice! I love them they turned out great! Everyone has an opinion I suppose and this video is a year old but I think you did great. We all have our own way of building things, your way worked out well!
You can use a sandpaper cleaning stick to clean clogged sandpaper, its basically a giant rubber eraser, cheers!
This has been an invaluable shop addition for me.
If you have a old tennis shoe, sneaker use that on the belt sander and the disc as well makes them almost new again. Or just buy a belt dresser on amazon. I been using sneakers for years. Great work. Thanks
Great project! Thanks for sharing!
They look really nice!
I wish everyone would also post how many man hours it took to build them. I was pretty much all in until the stars. That's got to be labor intensive to Dremel out 100 stars. I had the audio muted, so I don't know if he sold these, or what he would charge if he was making these for sale, along with the bags. I'm thinking these would have to go for $400 a set with the labor involved, just to make a little bit of cash. With the bags and materials, you're into it ~$175-$200, maybe more.
I like contrast, so if was building these, I would leave the frame and legs unstained and simply clear coat them or a whitewash stain to let the top stand out more.
Nice job, though, they'll be a big hit with a nice, frosty PBR or two!
Thanks for sharing, looks amazing. Very nice work and dedication.
Timothy Smith thank you!
I surely hope you sealed that bottom to protect the legs where you made those last cuts. Beautiful boards,,,,well done,,,
I love your saw table. Could you provide more details about it?
Would you consider a video on how you made your work bench? Would be very interested to build one like that
I need this table!! Any plans?
I like the legs work. Over all great
would you please post the spacing you used for the stars. I have the same stencil. Thanks.
Harbor freight and other stores have a sandpaper eraser to revive that belt sander.
Awesome boards. In your description you show 1/2" bolts but using 3/8" drill bit.
Should look into a sandpaper cleaner. They look like a big eraser. Work great! Saves alot of $ on the cheap sandpaper they make these days.
These are beautiful!
What do you charge to make them if I want a pair made. They are really awesome looking.
I suggest drilling a pilot hole for the 3/8" leg bolts. Try finding a second drill for this purpose, saving you time. Personally, I'm not a fan of the pocket hole tear out problem. You could try another form of connecting the top.
Are these for sale great work thanks for sharing
Great video. I was thinking if you had self sticking stars you would not have to do all that work.
Nice job!For unclogging sandpaper, try rubbing the belt (while it’s running) with synthetic wine corks.
Lowes has some ‘Lowes only’ Minwax products. I’m not sure if the spar varnish is one of them.
Lastly, after driving ¼ diameter lag bolts into 2” x 4”s, I went out and picked up set of nut drivers for my hand drill. Big time saver.
John Gregg thanks! I’ll give that a try. I run through sandpaper like it’s nobody’s business lol. That is a great idea. I’ll have to pick one up! Thanks for the tip!
You can blast the sandpaper with your air compressor blow gun attachment
You should drop a video of your dust collection system
Nice work.. I like the boards and the best picture that could ever be displayed. A carriage bolt washer would prevent the use of vise-grips on the bolt head. Also threading the nylock prior to install makes that first thread a little easier on the washer. Just saying because I've been there. Thanks for posting.
Nice boards dude, however id like to point out that when vertically presenting the Flag the field of stars should be in the upper left corner.
If you are standing to the right of the board while throwing, the stars are to the upper left. Maybe that was the pov he was trying to capture. Or maybe you fellas just missed the point here. Who cares... they are cornhole boards.
If they are on the other side it's very apparent that you're looking at a backwards flag. Go get your flag and hang it vertically. This is correct.
I know this is an old comment, but D V is correct. The Union is always displayed in the upper left as viewed. In the case of the boards, as viewed would be the perspective of the player(s) throwing TO it. I can see why the flag was oriented on the boards the way they are, when the board is on its side the flag is correct. It’s an honest mistake, one that there’s no way around really. If you orient the flag as he has then it’s incorrect while in play, but if you orient the flag to correctly display while playing, then it’s upside down if horizontal…
The boards are certainly amazing, no disrespect meant, just trying to render the honor our flag deserves.
commenting about where the field of stars is displayed, yet nobody has said anything about cutting a hole in it and using it as a game piece.
Wow, beautiful
Thank you so much
Add a reel with string under one of the boards. Cut the string at the proper distance so you never need a tape measure when your ready to play. I run mine out the center in front but the reel is in the back for easy spinning. Use a stopper/tab to keep the string from pulling through. My reel was from a old ice fishing pole.
GD Hunten this is a great idea. Thanks!!
Have you ever used a sanding cleaning eraser stick on that sander? Works great for me to clean it up
Would you consider building a set just like this and selling them?? I would be interested for sure... you do great work.
Great job on the boards and video brother! I think the I’m gonna make some myself and the wife has a silhouette cameo. Cheers 🍻
Brandon Bailey thanks brotha! Sweet I’m gonna tinker with this Cricut and make a vid in that so be sure to check it out! Stay safe over there!
Really nice looking! I wonder if you've considered cutting your own stars mask using a Cricut machine. It seems like it would save you quite a bit of effort in "cutting" the stars out with the dremel or router.
Scott Musser this is actually my new method! I didn’t have a Cricut back then!
You should drill 2 holes in the leg braces the size of 12 oz cans for cup holders
Joeyhohl19 I’ve thought about it. I actually make a different drink holder/scoreboard that I found from Rouge Builder. I’ll be showing that off in my next video
If I can make a recommendation it would be to buy sticker stars off Amazon they sell 500 stars and the 1.5" stars are a perfect fit and similar to the tape just peel them off as long as you use a gel stain.
Bonydominator we have looked at doing this but I now own a vinyl cutting machine so I can make my own stars without having to eyeball the spacing now!
Bonydominator. I want to do the same board but Betsy Ross Flag stars. What size would I need and where on Amazon can I find the sticky peel off stars?
Beautiful Job Bud! Would love to make a set of these! 👍
James Barlow Jr. thank you! I recommend using cabinet grade plywood. Less sanding and nicer finish. I have a new video in the works right now that will explain what I mean. And if you have a vinyl cutter, that would knock your production time down pretty quick too.
Love the boards but love that table saw table too. Do you have a video on how you built that?
Brett Minaker thank you! I built the table kinda off my head. I looked at a few videos and ended up tweaking it myself. I needed to upgrade the fence on the table so I followed this guys video: ua-cam.com/video/FIhMBYwm9E8/v-deo.html. Bought the plans from him and made it in about a day. Made it much more accurate and way more efficient. ** I actually just sold the table yesterday for a big upgrade and shop change up **
The boards look awesome. I don’t think anyone would deny that, but how slick are those things when you are using them? I would think you would have a ton of bags slide off the back end.
You can buy a sand paper eraser. They work really well.
how did you make the stick jig and get the correct spacing for the stars with the smaller union?
i wouldnt use the center piece between the two legs so that if you are on uneven ground you can freely move both legs to where u need them to make the board level because even a inch or two of a down slope will piss you off when trying to throw
Very true good point!
The star spacing information would be killer I also bought the same stencil and can not figure out the correct spacing. I'm sure I'm over thinking it but any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
You need a belt cleaner , it'd a type of rubber /sponge material ,from Harbor freight works great on all types of sand paper. They are located on the bottom shelf with the sanding disk or sand paper ,great video
Carl Freeman I will be picking one up soon! Thank you!
Nice work
G F thank you!
those are so sick good job man 🔥🔥🙏🏽
Thanks man!
Good job
Can you let me know how big you made the union on these boards..... they are very sharp and doable!
Nice Job Anyone with a vinyl cutter can cut and weed the star stencil for you. Especially if you find the file for them that is the exact size. Of course, they can size it for you also.. But, they cut the vinyl, weed out everything but the stars, and apply transfer tape to the stars.. Ask them to use the lowest pressure transfer tape they have. IE.. Easy to peel off. Then, do everything you do, but, wait until the first coat of poly is on the area where the stars go (good place for a good stick of the stars, and peel the heavy backing sheet and start straight on one edge and start putting it down with a credit card, bondo spreader, etc, while you roll the backing off.. Then, carefully pull the transfer tape off at a good backward angle and the stars should stay right where you want them.. Then, just put the rest of the coats on and your done.. Cut some serious time off of your builds.. They look great..
You need a rubber belt cleaner. They are awesome for keeping belt longer
Only thing I would do different is out a locking nut on your carriage bolts for the legs so there's never a worry of those bolts coming loose.
Nice build! Subscribed!
5 Minute Woodworker thank you!!
Can you tell me how long you waited in between applying the gel coat and the water based spar urethane? Thanks,
they look awesome only thing i would suggest is just buying bits with countersink on them save you one step with changing bits for that
Forsener bits work well, glue in dowel rod to fit, cut and sand. It gives it a very clean look, I use that technique on many of my projects.
Which Kreg corner clamp did you use. The only one I can find says 1 “ max material thickness. So I’m guessing that it wouldn’t work for the 1 1/2” 2x4. Great project. Keep up the great work
Man those came out amazing 👏
Great project and excellent wood working skills. I just subscribed to your Channel... do you sell those t-shirts, that army green one is awesome!!!
Thank you!! Not yet but we might get into selling them soon. That green one is my favorite too haha! More videos are on the way!
@@TradesmenGarage thanks for the quick response ! let me know I want to be the first to buy in support of your Channel!
Ty Berg absolutely! Check out my FB and IG accounts as well. I post on there frequently in between TY videos 🤙
Very nice work. What could be more American than corn hole? Although in the North East we call it bean bag toss for reasons I will not go into
jondrew55 haha thanks!
Awesome job! Alot of work in that for sure. Would you mind telling me how much space is in between each strip of tape? Or what measurement you put each mark. Sorry i just didn't understand in the video.