5:36 - On the contrary, plastic nuts need torque wrench more, because they require less torque and are easier to over torque. Most plastic ones accept up to 30 N.m.
0:18 Don't use that "cartridge bottom bracket tool", there isn't enough internal clearance to get it over the drive side spline, note that he uses his other tool for the drive side. There are two types of BB tool, that silver one is for the square taper BB, you need a different one for the octalink that has the nut on the outside, not at the end. It's basically hollow. Nobody points this out, luckily it's only £8
Thanks for the observations. The tool at 0.18 (by Bike Hand) does the job. I've completed literally 1000s of BB installs and removals with this one, mainly square taper but plenty of Octalink. Its splines fit well into the square taper spline profile, although there is a little freeplay-I have to make sure to keep it square against the BB, otherwise it can slip at medium to high torque when using the big wrench. There is an internal pin helping to stabilize it during use. The other one is by Icetool and is a little more stable. Both are adequate to the task though.
First Components - the 2nd cartridge tool will do some octalinks but not all, that’s why I’m posting. My octalink sticks out on one side so that tool will bottom out. I’ve had to order something like that 1st tool instead. Unfortunately the Aldi bike toolkit only comes with the short square taper version. It’s probably useful to show a tool from all angles to identify issues like this. edit: ah, wording in first post. By “don’t use” I mean, the 1st tool is more universal than the 2nd. YMMV
Excellent instructional video! I really appreciate your calm, patient demeanor.
Great video. Very clear and easy to understand. Subscribed.
Looks easier than it actually is. It takes a lot of patience and accuracy.
Thanks. Just what I needed.
5:36 - On the contrary, plastic nuts need torque wrench more, because they require less torque and are easier to over torque. Most plastic ones accept up to 30 N.m.
When I tighten the bottom bracket the spindle can not move, what could be the problem?
thank you, very helpful!
Did you use the torque wrench to break that Bb loose?
Caught that and cringed, please just get a breaker bar. So much better.
0:18 Don't use that "cartridge bottom bracket tool", there isn't enough internal clearance to get it over the drive side spline, note that he uses his other tool for the drive side.
There are two types of BB tool, that silver one is for the square taper BB, you need a different one for the octalink that has the nut on the outside, not at the end. It's basically hollow.
Nobody points this out, luckily it's only £8
Thanks for the observations. The tool at 0.18 (by Bike Hand) does the job. I've completed literally 1000s of BB installs and removals with this one, mainly square taper but plenty of Octalink. Its splines fit well into the square taper spline profile, although there is a little freeplay-I have to make sure to keep it square against the BB, otherwise it can slip at medium to high torque when using the big wrench. There is an internal pin helping to stabilize it during use. The other one is by Icetool and is a little more stable. Both are adequate to the task though.
First Components - the 2nd cartridge tool will do some octalinks but not all, that’s why I’m posting. My octalink sticks out on one side so that tool will bottom out. I’ve had to order something like that 1st tool instead. Unfortunately the Aldi bike toolkit only comes with the short square taper version.
It’s probably useful to show a tool from all angles to identify issues like this.
edit: ah, wording in first post. By “don’t use” I mean, the 1st tool is more universal than the 2nd. YMMV
HAH! My cat is called Harry also.
Breaker bars aren't expensive man, it's not great having a teacher advocating abusing torque wrenches lol
Good way to break the bike stand
Why would you put a shitty square taper bb back in the bike dude. 68/ 73 et . wow