4 Tricks to Remove a Seized/Stubborn Bottom Bracket - Square Taper
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2017
- There are plenty of other lubricant options that will be suitable. Such as "WD-40 Specialist, Fast Release Penetrant" which you can buy here:
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I used this: shop.wurth.ca/lubricants-grea...
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There are many approaches to removing a stubborn bottom bracket. My initial plan with this one was to use a liquid penetrating grease, then remove the plastic non drive side cup first, and add more penetrating lubricant to the back side of the drive side threads. However as you can see I have sheered off more than 50% of the teeth on the plastic cup, so I must take a different approach.
1. Drill access holes to help get penetrating lubricant to more threads. Wait days/weeks, then repeat and repeat again.
2. Bolt the BB tool to the BB. The prevents the tool from slipping and ensures even pressure to all of the BB teeth, and minimizes the chance of damaging the BB or the tool. If I had done this initially on the plastic cup, I may not have had the problem of broken teeth.
3. Use a bench vice to hold the tool and turn the frame, rather than holding the frame and turning the tool. Using the frame as a lever allows more torque to be applied to the tool. This works best if the bench vice is bolted to a solid bench/surface, as I clearly demonstrate! It is critical that you double check you are turning the tool in the correct direction to loosen and not tighten the bb. Parktool website is great at explaining this.
www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...
4. Use a longer spanner/wrench or slide a pole over the handle of spanner/wrench in order to have a longer lever and apply more torque to the tool.
Other tricks I have read about include pouring boiling water over the bottom bracket shell which may cause the bottom bracket to expand very slightly compared to the bb just enough to make a difference. Or if you're absolutely desperate hitting the end of the wrench/pole with a mallet or sledge hammer. I would only ever do this if I had tried everything else and my next step was to throw the entire frame in the garbage, as there is a huge risk of doing irreparable damage to the bb shell or frame.
Man, you're my hero! I wanted to give-up the project because of stuck bottom bracket. Then I ran into your video and managed within less than hour!
Awesome! Thanks!
P.S. In case you don't want to use a saw to remove the broken plastic cup because you are afraid of damaging the threads of your bike frame:
-Take a flathead screwdriver and a hammer. Place the flathead screwdriver against the broken plastic cup at an angle so that when you hit the screwdriver with the hammer the plastic cup unrotates a little bit and loosens.
-Do this a couple of dozen times until the plastic cup has rotated some more.
-At this point you can probably take some pliers and grab the sides of the broken plastic cup with them and unrotate the plastic cup all the way.
And voila: you have removed the broken plastic cup!
Genius dude! thanks for posting this. I was literally throwing my wrenches around the garage in anger at how little grip there is on the drive side and starting to ruin the teeth on the tool etc. then I tried your method of bolting the tool securely using the internal thread on the bracket, extending my wrench with a piece of angle iron and got the job done. Saved me a fortune and cheered me up no end. Thanks!
This video and this comment. I was removing a square taper, not touched in 10+years. The thing was so stuck. Destroyed a cheap ratched tool and almost the thread of the bracket itself. Then I bolted down the thing, tried again- no success and then I turned the bike upside down, and saw this comment. Since I don't have a breaker bar I stuck a pipe on the wrench and VOILA! I did hurt the frame's thread a little, but little. I can install hollow tech unit. I know what to do next time.
Your idea to use a bolt thru the axle to keep the socket from slipping along with a pipe wrench did the trick. That is genius, thank you thank you. When I got the bracket out it was rusty (1993 GT Outpost). I was ready to give up because I thought I had stripped the threads on the bracket. Thanks again.
I can see that many folk have thanked you for showing this method of securing the BB tool to the BB fitting but I have been struggling with mine and destroyed at least one BB tool. I am very grateful to you for this tip. My sense of achievement is comprehensive, as I gaze at the now separated frame and BB fitting!
There are heaps of tricks out there when trying to rescue bikes that might otherwise end up landfill. Glad this worked for you
IT WORKED!! After trying all the other methods that didn't involve drilling, I was about ready to give up. Kept searching and found this video. SO glad I did. Good idea to lube the inside. Thank you for posting!
This helped dissipate my frustration. Thank you! Will calm down and try again. Woman vs. bottom bracket!
Ohsem!!
Me too. Was asking myself if they made another standard with reversed threading while I put more leverage than I was comfortable with. Heading out now to buy the release agent. I live in the US so I will probably struggle to find a bolt with the right thread. Not really sure why there isn't a tool that integrates the retention feature.
I am going to put the release agent in through the seat tube. I already hit the wrench with a hammer but not very hard. I ruined a frame a few years back so I don't want to do that again.
Did you get it Virginia?
@@errcoche yes, why dont the tools come with a retention feature is my thought exactly.
Women also here vs bb
Thanks for posting this. Haven't touched my MTB for over 18 months but I want to give it an overhaul and get back out there. Full strip and clean is in order and I'm at the stubborn BB stage at the moment. Cheers!
Thanks for saving the day! I’m working on a rusty Specialized w/ the same bottom bracket feature as yours. Bolting the tool on was key - I held the frame down and had a 200lb helper put all his weight on a 5’ piece of steel tubing over an 18” pipe wrench. I can’t do the math on how much force it was but it finally came off! I didn’t have much luck drilling the plastic side but since the frame was steel I used a small propane torch to remove the leftovers. Thanks again!
This saved me from throwing my bike in the ocean out of sheer frustration.
I cant get the fucking bearing out
@@JSKZER Keep at it, I did 3 years ago and look at me now!
THANK YOU! The trick of finding a screw and locking down the tool while I take a ridiculously long wrench to it was the ONLY thing that helped the seized threaded bottom bracket come unstuck on a new bike. They must not have put any/enough oil on it when they put it together. But you saved me from a three to four hundred dollar mistake. Thanks for posting this!!
Getton mate, bolting the tool to the bracket was a great idea! worked a treat! :)
Dude you are a goddamn genius with the screw idea to hold on the bottom bracket socket man. It kept slipping off the plastic because it was where on out. That's such a good idea to use a screw and screw it on into place. Thank you so much man. You are a god
Thanks! The securing of the BB tool worked well. Used a bit of heat as well. I put the bike and BB on a radiator after adding some WD40 overnight via drill holes as per you video. Came off right away. Hack saw trick worked as well.
ulol
Wow thank you so much!!! The drive side plastic spline had worn out causing the BB tool to slip when I tried to remove the bottom bracket.. I used your technique of using a crank bolt to fix the tool is place. The BB came off no problem!. I can't thank you enough, great video !!! You're a genius.
(hate plastice splines on BB's)
The trick with the bolt and monkey grip tool is ingenious. Like it mate 👌
that single tip of using a bolt to hold down the tool on the plastic cup was absolutely amazing. probably saved me from all the headache you had to deal with on that second plastic cup being seized...
Glad it helped!
This technique is brilliant. Used it to remove a hopelessly stuck bottom bracket on a 1990 Specialized Stumpjumper. Needed an 18" box wrench plus a 36" pipe to remove the non-drive side. I used a hot knife to cut two slots in the plastic drive side cup which had broken similar to the video.
Deamn...you are the man! No one else had the solutions you show. Thanks brother!
Thank the gods ( and you ) for bringing this to my attention. It's 3:32am and I've been struggling to remove the same BB.. I've bought some aftermarket single crank and 34t ovel in Facebook blue:/.. thought the arms were black so anyway ordered a black 38T round with gold fasteners:o.. won't miss me ripping up the countryside tomorrow evening..
Thanks for sharing this very helpful tip. I will try this on my old bike with the same problem.
Finally, ive watched so much youtube to find this. Nice.
Awesome tip. I just bought an 8” 3/8” lag bolt, nut and washer. I put the bolt through the tool and the entire bottom bracket. Put nut and washer on opposite side from the bottom bracket tool. Then with a large half inch socket and 2 foot breaker bar it came free!
THANK YOU ive been trying to find the bolt to buy
Well done, you will save allot of peoples frames from being scrapped with this great video.
I wish I had come across your video earlier. It gave me an idea that eventually lead to success and would of saved me heartache. I used a 3/8 X 8 inch carehage bolt that went through the middle of the octalink spindle. A washer and bolt on the carehage bolt secured the removal tool in place. Socket and breaker bar and off it came. It's too difficult to both press the removal tool in and crank down on a wrench. That would require three people to do. One to hold the bike.One to hold the removal tool in place. One to crank down on the wrench. I salute you good sir!
It's a simple adjustment to procedure that improves the outcome significantly! Glad you got it sorted
Pro tip for ya:
After BB removal and cleaning up with a rag and some solvent, go to the hardware store & get yourself a 1 1/2" round radial wire brush to be used in a drill. You gotta kinda push it into the BB shell, but once you do, it will clean it out like magic. Utilize the drill reverse depending on what side you're doing. You'll be AMAZED at how it scours out and cleans up the threads. Truly amazing. Pretty much equivalent to running a set of taps through it.
Thanks for the video. I used your hack that starts on 1:20 (bolting the tool to the bracket) and I was able to get mine out (also used the penetrating lubricant). I have a Schwinn Circuit 700cc from 2019 (from Target).
This is exactly what i was looking for
💯💪🏼
Fantastic. You've just saved my sanity!
Perfect method. For correct threading I used a bolt from my bike parts drawer. This bolt went into a bag with the tool and they'll remain together forever
Great tip!
Thank you for your video, I was getting increasingly frustrated with my bottom bracket, and was chewing up the spline on the cup. The bolting trick presented at 1:53, looked sketchy as hell, I used a random screw and a bunch of washers to hold the tool in place and then had to hit it repeatedly with a mallet multiple times but I got it out.
I'll come visit this video again in another 6 years no doubt when it needs replacing again!
Satisfying to watch! Thanks for posting.
Bolting the tool down did the trick for me. Thanks for the tip!
YOUR A GENIUS!!! Locking the tool in was a great idea. Also like the idea of drilling an spraying the penetrating fluid inside
Great work
Glad it was helpful!
Well done. It worked!! Late night bottom bracket problem solved by using the "bolt the 20 spline BB removal tool to the crank" trick. And then hitting the spanner multiple times with a hammer.
Nice work John. Bike saved.
Thanks for this video! I used a slightly different approach: In my case, the non-drive-side cup, BB spindle and bearings were able to be removed easily, but the drive-side cup was frozen (in other words, I was dealing with an open BB shell with a stuck cup). After putting Liquid Wrench on it and letting it sit overnight, I ran a 6" long 1/2" bolt through the BB shell and tool, and tightened down the tool/BB cup interface by using fender washers and nuts. Now that the tool was prevented from flying off whenever torques was applied, the cup was easily removed!
solution!!❤
Nice save of BB!😉just subscribed. Very useful solution to a common problem...NOT looking forward to tackling mine 😕thanks for sharing.
Oh man. This saved me so much time! (After wasting 30 minutes trying and failing...)
Many Thanks for the Idea! Bolt thru the axle... Briliant!
Exactly what I was looking for. I was considering paying a bike shop to remove the BB, but this should save me the expense. Thx
I needed some inspiration. Thanks for posting
Super!! Thank you very much for this great advise.
THX Man! U saved my life!! No2 worked 4 me. THX and greetings from germany
Thanks for sharing this video.very helpful.
lol damn the trick with screwing on the nut was saving my ***! Thanks so much! Cheers!
Great job! And thanks for the video. I'm going to my local shop :)
Bolted tool bench vice worked, bless you.
Thank you for the bolt on the tool was the thing that did it for me - had to use a 5 foot long pipe though and my wife standing on the frame - but it eventually gave up with a crack. Dont want to think how many newton meters of force that took.
I don't even have a square tapered BB yet I enjoyed watching
Good idea ... I have same problem like this. Thanks
Great job, you have a lot of patience.
Didn't want to be beaten by some miserable corrosion!
Creative.
My respect.
Great video and idea man!
You love to see it. Great success.
Thank you, my brain must be getting soft. I did not even think of the press idea I used the same principle to remove a spindle for my Silverado. thanks again.
Good tips and tricks
Brilliant! Thanks.
Why didn't I think of this!!!!! Doh!
Anyway thank you for the video the BB in my old frame will be history now.
Feakin awesome......love the hack saw blade part....that worked for me.
Used my 1992 Iron Beast also in the winter for years, now the bottom bracket has too much movement and will not come out, have to try your method too. have to try a longer pipewrench though your bracket looks like new.
Thank you many many ....times!!
thanks ted you're awesome
what is the thread on the bolt. That's what i need. And, thank you for making this video - especially the funky tunes!
I ended up using a carpenters clamp to hold the tool in place. Didn't have a long threaded bolt. Oh, and my buff 23 year old daughter. But it worked! Thanks for the idea.
Welldone brilliant video
Thanks useful tip for keeping the tool on the bracket (and other tips too spose) Brill thanks
Thank you so much!!
I am currently restoring a old sepcialized 28" hybrid not sure on the year but so far everythings been seizd, i bent the front forks loosening the stem so i just cut them out now i have to try find a replacement, its not proving easy as im a noob at this level of restorations on a bike, but iwill do as this guy did as my tool just slips when i give it some so ive i can bolt it on im sure i can undo it if not that drill technique looked good
dude thank you so much!
I just had full work day trying to figure this out yesterday and this pops into my suggestions today. and I did saw it out the same way. took a while to get to the saw tho 🤦🏿♂️
Nice work. So satisfying to beat this kind of thing
I'm trying to refurbish my old bicycle for my father in law and it has the older style metal BB. I got the non drive side off without the proper tool using a hammer and screw driver now the other side needs a 36mm spanner which I can't Jerry rig my way around... Wanted an hour trying to do it this evening. Pain in the rear! Got a nice cartridge BB that I will be replacing this all with once the drive side is out.
THANK YOU!!!
That bolt method is what I am testing next, to get a 1.00mm thread pitch bolt with the correct length was a nightmare, going to try it with 40mm and pray. I just hope an adjustable wrench is enough torque, I do not fancy investing in a pipe wrench for one job. If all fails it'll be a quick visit to the LBS.👍
Vice or a big ass pipe wrench are a man's best friend when it comes to this shit. Of course currently I have neither hence me trying to remove the bracket on the chain side for almost an hour now with hands covered with blisters.
good idea... thanks
great work very useful
Great to hear it!
im having a hard time removing my bottom bracket on the drive side or the side with the crank,,ive already pulled the crank ang arm the problem is i cant remove the bottom bracket cup,, pls help what should i do??? and is it clckwise or counter clockwise?
My crank puller has a spherical end which damaged the threads. So now I have to somehow repair the threads so I can put in a bolt get out the cartridge that needs replacing because the threads are damaged.
I learned somethings, like how you used a vice when I just used a socket wrench and striped parts of the square tapered bottom bracket.
And when I finally got it out, parts of the inside bottom bracket frame was stripped.
Thank you sir ...
I have a question about bolting it! My tool keeps slipping so badly, I was wondering what all you used to bolt yours to the bracket?
I used a powerful impact gun 400lbs of torque and strip the teeth.
Top choons, especially the 2nd one
Works for me on a Shimano octalink bb (splined and tappered
After drilling and applying wd40
I secure the frame to the workbench with ropes
Then use my rear quick release axis to secure the removal tool and finally I slowly hammer (rubber mallet) the wrench
Now I upgraded to a hollowtech 2 bb with tons of grease :)
What is the size of that bolt that you used to stop it from slipping?
Could u please reply to me. I am in the exact same situation as this. Except that while my cups are plastic the threads on the cup are metal. How do i solve this? Do i just use a hacksaw like you did?
Thanks to internet. Now my scott is saved
Only problem I have with your video is that the hardware store is closed right now and I have to wait till tomorrow to go and get the screw that I need for that removal tool hack. Thank you for the tip.
Great video... my problem is all the teeth in the bb drive side are rounded out so tool doesn't work..
What did you do? I have bb teeth stripped
awesome video!!! but this s3-safety-flipflps caught me off-guard ;) to funy!
How can I find that Crank bolt at such length?
Good Video
i had the same problem - 1994 Parkpre MTB AL U MAX : stuck square taper the Plastic Broke OFF - Drive Side ???
and the METAL PIECE on NON DRIVE SIDE ? Thinking maybe install WRONG
used ALOT of HEAT !!! on the ALUMINUM and LONG Breaker Bar Counter Clock Wise to Unthread it Slight thread Damage on the Non Drive Side
I like your idea, because I have the same problem/
tank U
Good luck!
Man my bottom bracket is seized the is slipping on it's own threads so can't Remove it, what do u suggest?
I see you replaced tapered with hollowtech 2. Can you tell us what measurements you need to choose the right fit for a different type of BB?
I had same problem but beleave me there is nothing a 5ft scaffolding bar with a torque wrench cant undo!!
I’m in this same predicament. Only difference is my cup is steel. Any idea on how to remove it?
that is a damn good idea to screw in a nut to prevent the tool from slipping off.
Bolting the tool in place - yes!
Obvious, when someone tells you.......
Also, avoid the sealed units with a plastic part, pay a bit extra for one with the two metal cups
the song in the video is actually pretty good. good work!
I just used an impact gun and it came out with no problem