I would have thought someone else would leave this comment. But, when pressure testing a build, you do not put the watch together and then pressure test it. Instead, after installing the crystal, 'gasketing' the case back and crown, screwing down the back and crown, then you pressure test ONLY the case. You pressure test an empty case. This way you do not damage or destroy a movement, dial and handset.
Thanks, but I did do this! 1 pressure test without movement, 1 with the movement above the water, then the last one submerged, which was the test it failed😮💨
@@jbwatchmodsyou added pressure with the watch fully submerged…. That’s not how you check for leaks with this type of system at all. You add pressure before you submerge it then submerge it and release pressure and look for air escaping. This way even if you have a leak water will not get in only air will get out and if you have a steady stream of bubbles there is your leak.
I agree with the other commenter, @bidipbo - Whenever I build a new watch I *ALWAYS* pressure test an empty case (sans movement) so you don't risk destroying the dial, hands, movement, etc. I've also been bitten by poorly installed crystals on see through case backs that have failed. I really no longer use them, especially when using an NH35 (or other NH Mov't) they really aren't much to look at and we've ll seen them a million times anyway.
Looks really great, practice makes perfect I've built two the second one is better than the first, hopefully the third will be better will be better still, looking forward to your next build.
@@jbwatchmods finding decent presses is a challenge without spending an absolute fortune. I’ve always found this one to be reliable and very centered. Theres several others in this price range but not sure how well they do.
Lots of nice gear, but a quite a few parts of the building methods made me wince pretty hard... Also, I know its sometimes a preference, sometimes a mistake, but a dial without minute markers paired with a a rehaut/chapter ring without minute markers just doesn't sit right. One thing to add, for new builders, when you cut the crown stem, before you screw it in to the crown, even when testing (before thread lock), file down the end of the stem where you cut it.. a stem cut with pliers will often cut it jagged, and ruin the thread inside the crown.
@@jbwatchmodsall. Ice, but why oh why does. Noone put chapter rings in their builds, just for that last premium detail…. I know more of the cheapwatch cases doesnt have loose rings installed, so it is not possible, but when youre at it, why not do it 100%. Instead of 80%
I love this build video but I'm sorry to have to point this out you are using your pressure tester wrong. The instructions that come with the bergeron 5555 pressure testing machine state that for a wet pressure test, you pump up the pressure with the case out of the water. Then you wait for 3 minutes for the air pressure in the case and the testing vessel to equalize, and only then do you put the case underwater and release the pressure. I do like that you do a dry pressure test first and I hadn't thought of that, and that would definitely prevent issues when the crystal lets go. But even during a wet pressure test, you are supposed to let the pressure equalize then dunk the case and release the pressure, never pressurize while the case is immersed. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the tip, ill definitely be doing that in the future! I understand that would prevent pumping water into the case, but the end result of the crystal popping would be the same I assume. Is that just to ensure the case is filling with pressurised air as opposed to water.
That is why I'm incorporating your dry test idea into the wet testing method. Do the dry test first and release the pressure just to make sure the crystal isn't going to pop. Then do the wet test according to the instructions, were you pressurize the testing machine and then let the pressure equalize for 3 to 5 minutes before immersing the case and releasing the pressure. This combination of methods runs the least risk of flooding the case with water.
I usually try to pressure test the case alone...no movement or dial etc... just to try not to soak everything if there's a Fail.. (EDIT) OH! lol...It's been mentioned a few times now I read the comments! :) Very nice watch, but personally I'm not keen on the Rolex Bezel insert and Hands... would look better with Seiko-esque bits...but that's just My personal opinion...LOVE the Dial though.
I did! I actually did 2 tests prior to the watch failing in the water. One with no movement submerged, one with everything cased above the water and the final test which was the one that failed.
@@jbwatchmods I see! I would assume that it’s just the crystal-, caseback- and the crowntube/crown o-ring that are being tested and those don’t depend on having a movement inside.
Feel sorry for your loss. My condolencies. ... I 'm sure, 95% of all my watches will fail the pressure test. With the exception of my beloved Citizen one.
jason when you pressure test do it to 3 bar above the water leave for a min or 2 then release the pressure to see if the crystal pops out indicating a leak if that goes ok keeping it above the water go to 3 bar again with it above the water then after a while lower it into the water if there is leak when it's in the water when you release the pressure you will see a stream of bubbles coming out of the case where the leak is then hopefully if you are quick you can lift the watch before any water gets into the movement i do it this way all the way up to 6 bar on my seiko mods and never has a problem ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Cheers! I normally do 3 tests. 1 without the movement and dial fitted, 1 above the water with the movement and dial fitted and the last one submerged which failed in this case (although I shouldve pressurised the tank and let the pressures equalise before submerging the watch) Thanks for the tips!
learned more thanks Mate
No problem 👍
I would have thought someone else would leave this comment. But, when pressure testing a build, you do not put the watch together and then pressure test it. Instead, after installing the crystal, 'gasketing' the case back and crown, screwing down the back and crown, then you pressure test ONLY the case. You pressure test an empty case. This way you do not damage or destroy a movement, dial and handset.
Thanks! Great point for those like me who may overlook this and assume all will go well
Thanks, but I did do this! 1 pressure test without movement, 1 with the movement above the water, then the last one submerged, which was the test it failed😮💨
@@jbwatchmodsyou added pressure with the watch fully submerged…. That’s not how you check for leaks with this type of system at all. You add pressure before you submerge it then submerge it and release pressure and look for air escaping. This way even if you have a leak water will not get in only air will get out and if you have a steady stream of bubbles there is your leak.
I agree with the other commenter, @bidipbo - Whenever I build a new watch I *ALWAYS* pressure test an empty case (sans movement) so you don't risk destroying the dial, hands, movement, etc. I've also been bitten by poorly installed crystals on see through case backs that have failed. I really no longer use them, especially when using an NH35 (or other NH Mov't) they really aren't much to look at and we've ll seen them a million times anyway.
Incredibly exquisite! Thank you:)
Cheers!
All the tips you give in these videos are great! Love the build.
Thanks!
another excellent video with attention to detail! keep it up!!
I think that's a stunning watch.
Cheers!
Looks really great, practice makes perfect I've built two the second one is better than the first, hopefully the third will be better will be better still, looking forward to your next build.
Yep, definitely gets easier the more you build!
looks great, might be better with a batman bezel to go with the gradient on the dial
Thanks mate. Yeah thats definitely a cool idea!
I’ve got an E25 press also. I love it.
Yeah, it does a great job. Mine is getting a little bit notchy coming up and down now unfortunately
@@jbwatchmods finding decent presses is a challenge without spending an absolute fortune. I’ve always found this one to be reliable and very centered. Theres several others in this price range but not sure how well they do.
@@weppingtonhardcastle8199 Yeah totally agree. Im going to try pull mine apart to see what's going on with it because it is a great press
Lots of nice gear, but a quite a few parts of the building methods made me wince pretty hard... Also, I know its sometimes a preference, sometimes a mistake, but a dial without minute markers paired with a a rehaut/chapter ring without minute markers just doesn't sit right. One thing to add, for new builders, when you cut the crown stem, before you screw it in to the crown, even when testing (before thread lock), file down the end of the stem where you cut it.. a stem cut with pliers will often cut it jagged, and ruin the thread inside the crown.
Another great build, mate!
Thanks mate, appreciate it!
@@jbwatchmodsall. Ice, but why oh why does. Noone put chapter rings in their builds, just for that last premium detail…. I know more of the cheapwatch cases doesnt have loose rings installed, so it is not possible, but when youre at it, why not do it 100%. Instead of 80%
Loving the videos. Wondering if you could do a Daytona style build please. Keep up the good work
Thanks! Yeah definitely will be in doing that in the future :)
I love this build video but I'm sorry to have to point this out you are using your pressure tester wrong.
The instructions that come with the bergeron 5555 pressure testing machine state that for a wet pressure test, you pump up the pressure with the case out of the water. Then you wait for 3 minutes for the air pressure in the case and the testing vessel to equalize, and only then do you put the case underwater and release the pressure. I do like that you do a dry pressure test first and I hadn't thought of that, and that would definitely prevent issues when the crystal lets go. But even during a wet pressure test, you are supposed to let the pressure equalize then dunk the case and release the pressure, never pressurize while the case is immersed.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for the tip, ill definitely be doing that in the future!
I understand that would prevent pumping water into the case, but the end result of the crystal popping would be the same I assume. Is that just to ensure the case is filling with pressurised air as opposed to water.
That is why I'm incorporating your dry test idea into the wet testing method. Do the dry test first and release the pressure just to make sure the crystal isn't going to pop. Then do the wet test according to the instructions, were you pressurize the testing machine and then let the pressure equalize for 3 to 5 minutes before immersing the case and releasing the pressure. This combination of methods runs the least risk of flooding the case with water.
@@WatchmakerErik Yeah, I agree. That sounds like the winning combo that ill be using next time aswell.
Where can buy a pressure tester like that?
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DejA4yH
I usually try to pressure test the case alone...no movement or dial etc... just to try not to soak everything if there's a Fail.. (EDIT) OH! lol...It's been mentioned a few times now I read the comments! :)
Very nice watch, but personally I'm not keen on the Rolex Bezel insert and Hands... would look better with Seiko-esque bits...but that's just My personal opinion...LOVE the Dial though.
I did the try test in hopes that would prevent everything getting wet... didn't work in this case haha
Nice ... I hope I can made my Own Watch...😂😂😂
Why didn't you test it without the movement. That's what I do and if it leaks the movement is fine. Good work.
I did! I actually did 2 tests prior to the watch failing in the water. One with no movement submerged, one with everything cased above the water and the final test which was the one that failed.
Why is the movement inside while pressure testing?
To make sure it's water resistant in its final form
@@jbwatchmods I see! I would assume that it’s just the crystal-, caseback- and the crowntube/crown o-ring that are being tested and those don’t depend on having a movement inside.
@@SirBlackieChan Yeah mainly for the case back
is it not illegal to make a fake watch with seiko on the dial ?
Feel sorry for your loss.
My condolencies.
...
I 'm sure, 95% of all my watches will fail the pressure test.
With the exception of my beloved Citizen one.
Well aslong as you dont get them wet, you'll have nothing to worry about😉
jason when you pressure test do it to 3 bar above the water leave for a min or 2 then release the pressure to see if the crystal pops out indicating a leak if that goes ok keeping it above the water go to 3 bar again with it above the water then after a while lower it into the water if there is leak when it's in the water when you release the pressure you will see a stream of bubbles coming out of the case where the leak is then hopefully if you are quick you can lift the watch before any water gets into the movement i do it this way all the way up to 6 bar on my seiko mods and never has a problem ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Cheers! I normally do 3 tests. 1 without the movement and dial fitted, 1 above the water with the movement and dial fitted and the last one submerged which failed in this case (although I shouldve pressurised the tank and let the pressures equalise before submerging the watch) Thanks for the tips!
Fck yeah Man😎
Its look realy nice and clean I would love to wear it 🔥👌
Keep it up💪🧨
Thanks man!
4163 Nolan Wells