At 6:08 you tighten the fork chrome top bolt using a box wrench. Much better than using an open end wrench or worse, an adjustable wrench, due to possibly damaging the chrome on the corners of the fastener. I like to always use 6 point sockets on any chrome fastener, to prevent such damage. Later, around the 17:00 mark, you do use a socket to torque these bolts down. However, there is no view of whether this is a 6 or 12 point socket. If you had mentioned this at that point, it must have been edited out. For the chrome jam nuts on the turn signal stalks, I like to use a "tubing" aka flare nut wrench, rather than an open end wrench, to tighten these. Less chance of damaging the chrome plating on the nuts. Great comments regarding the 4 console warning lamps! An excellent video with great close up shots of important details.
Good to see you guys making some new videos. I found a rusty crusty shed find 1969 Norton commando 750, Roadster or s type right down the block from me from a hoarder type guy. Me and my wife pushed it home. I tore it down to the frame. It was missing some big items like clutch, outer primary, carbs, cylinders and head, coils and mounting, head steady. I have since rumaged his garage several times and we located the head , cylinders, carburators. Maybe can score the missing items in the future. we have to get in the rafters of his garage. Started sand blasting and painting items. My questions are is the bearing bores in the tranny case are like .010 too big. they staked the main bearing in but when I dismantled the tranny I noticed the loose main bearing and a hair line crack between the two bearings. your thoughts. I love this project, it looks like the same bike that Clint Eastwood was on I found on UA-cam back in the early 70s. keep up the good work. Love the content. Peter from Long Island NY.
Well thought I would say, if it was my transmission case, I'd look on eBay for a replacement. All 1968 through 1974 commando cases will fit and work, but the newer year cases might be better. So look for sellers that give good pictures, and you don't want a crack between the bearing bores. Good luck, and your project sounds fun-filled and will be very rewarding when finished.
Just a comment about the front end assembly, I was taught that you don’t tighten the pinch bolts until you have the front wheel on and compress the suspension a few time so that everything is aligned. This guarantees free movement and minimal Striction.
Great videos and timely too since I'm in the middle of rebuilding my MK3. The engine/gearbox are done and in a freshly powdered coated frame. Starting my front-end and I have a couple questions. First, I like the color/finish on your fork yokes, painted or powder coated? Can you tell me what color and paint or powder you used? Second, I need to stamp my replacement VIN plate, how/where did you do yours?
It's an aluminum color it's VHT SP995 epoxy paint. There maybe other places to get this paint but I bought it from Amazon. You should be able to find it by typing in VHT SP995 and to get the nice finish like we got just follow the instructions on the can, The original frame tag was removed and not very good so I bought a new blank original 75 style frame tag and rivets and stamped it and reinstalled myself.
@@jessesvintagegarage765 Thanks, I just found the paint online at a local auto parts store. I planned on stamping my own VIN plate but a bit nervous about it coming out clean. Yours looks great from what I can see, hopefully mine will too. Also, thanks for the effort in publishing the videos, helps a lot when you see others do it. Cheers!
@@BRUCE_SWAN_MOTORCYCLES If you order your replacement VIN plate directly from Andover Norton, they will stamp the VIN number plate for you. You may have to provide a photocopy of your title or registration??
@@charleskuss8538 I did get the plate from A/N but Didn't know they had that service. Too late now, I already stamped it and it's on the bike. It came out pretty good although the font isn't exact. I also had to wash some silver paint over the numbers to get them to stand out. Overall, it looks good, I'm happy. Currently I'm rebuilding my main wire harness, eliminating unused wires since I moved to Tri-Spark ignition and regulator. Wheels are off to Buchanan's tomorrow... now if I could get my brake rotors sorted... got bad ones from a well know supplier in the UK (not A/N).
I recently watched the video on the 74" Norton engine rebuild. One question ... Why didn't you install the top end while the motor was on the bench instead of in the frame? You must have a reason because it would seem to be so much easier than bending over and around the frame . Thankx for the Videos.
Well we've done it both ways but that motor is very heavy and awkward plus it's a very tight fit and we've just found it way easier to put the bottom end in first because it's easier to put the motor mounts and cradle bolts in that way and just put the top end together afterwards.
I saw another detail that I wanted to ask you about. I seem to remember Commando Z plates on early Commandos, 1970/71, had the center area in a matte finish and the edges were polished. Virtually all Commandos I see now are like mine, completely polished. Perhaps it's just a camera artifact but are your Z plates matte with polished edges. If so, how did you do this?
We vapor basted the centers and polished all the flat sides and edges to a fine shine with 4-0000 steel wool and Autosol metal polish using other polish with steel wool might work as well.
Another excellent informative video Thank you!
At 6:08 you tighten the fork chrome top bolt using a box wrench. Much better than using an open end wrench or worse, an adjustable wrench, due to possibly damaging the chrome on the corners of the fastener. I like to always use 6 point sockets on any chrome fastener, to prevent such damage. Later, around the 17:00 mark, you do use a socket to torque these bolts down. However, there is no view of whether this is a 6 or 12 point socket. If you had mentioned this at that point, it must have been edited out. For the chrome jam nuts on the turn signal stalks, I like to use a "tubing" aka flare nut wrench, rather than an open end wrench, to tighten these. Less chance of damaging the chrome plating on the nuts. Great comments regarding the 4 console warning lamps! An excellent video with great close up shots of important details.
Thanks for your comments,
Good to see you guys making some new videos. I found a rusty crusty shed find 1969 Norton commando 750, Roadster or s type right down the block from me from a hoarder type guy. Me and my wife pushed it home. I tore it down to the frame. It was missing some big items like clutch, outer primary, carbs, cylinders and head, coils and mounting, head steady. I have since rumaged his garage several times and we located the head , cylinders, carburators. Maybe can score the missing items in the future. we have to get in the rafters of his garage. Started sand blasting and painting items. My questions are is the bearing bores in the tranny case are like .010 too big. they staked the main bearing in but when I dismantled the tranny I noticed the loose main bearing and a hair line crack between the two bearings. your thoughts. I love this project, it looks like the same bike that Clint Eastwood was on I found on UA-cam back in the early 70s. keep up the good work. Love the content. Peter from Long Island NY.
Awesome thanks for sharing
Well thought I would say, if it was my transmission case, I'd look on eBay for a replacement. All 1968 through 1974 commando cases will fit and work, but the newer year cases might be better. So look for sellers that give good pictures, and you don't want a crack between the bearing bores.
Good luck, and your project sounds fun-filled and will be very rewarding when finished.
@@jessesvintagegarage765 Thanks Jesse, very fun filled and you guys started my craving for a Norton amungst other youtubers
Looking good at this point.
Just a comment about the front end assembly, I was taught that you don’t tighten the pinch bolts until you have the front wheel on and compress the suspension a few time so that everything is aligned. This guarantees free movement and minimal Striction.
We do that with the front wheel axle on the Mk3 right leg pinch bolt but in this case we need to wait until after the brakes are installed and bled.
Great videos and timely too since I'm in the middle of rebuilding my MK3. The engine/gearbox are done and in a freshly powdered coated frame. Starting my front-end and I have a couple questions. First, I like the color/finish on your fork yokes, painted or powder coated? Can you tell me what color and paint or powder you used? Second, I need to stamp my replacement VIN plate, how/where did you do yours?
It's an aluminum color it's VHT SP995 epoxy paint. There maybe other places to get this paint but I bought it from Amazon. You should be able to find it by typing in VHT SP995 and to get the nice finish like we got just follow the instructions on the can,
The original frame tag was removed and not very good so I bought a new blank original 75 style frame tag and rivets and stamped it and reinstalled myself.
@@jessesvintagegarage765 Thanks, I just found the paint online at a local auto parts store. I planned on stamping my own VIN plate but a bit nervous about it coming out clean. Yours looks great from what I can see, hopefully mine will too. Also, thanks for the effort in publishing the videos, helps a lot when you see others do it. Cheers!
@@BRUCE_SWAN_MOTORCYCLES If you order your replacement VIN plate directly from Andover Norton, they will stamp the VIN number plate for you. You may have to provide a photocopy of your title or registration??
@@charleskuss8538 I did get the plate from A/N but Didn't know they had that service. Too late now, I already stamped it and it's on the bike. It came out pretty good although the font isn't exact. I also had to wash some silver paint over the numbers to get them to stand out. Overall, it looks good, I'm happy. Currently I'm rebuilding my main wire harness, eliminating unused wires since I moved to Tri-Spark ignition and regulator. Wheels are off to Buchanan's tomorrow... now if I could get my brake rotors sorted... got bad ones from a well know supplier in the UK (not A/N).
I recently watched the video on the 74" Norton engine rebuild. One question ... Why didn't you install the top end while the motor was on the bench instead of in the frame? You must have a reason because it would seem to be so much easier than bending over and around the frame . Thankx for the Videos.
Well we've done it both ways but that motor is very heavy and awkward plus it's a very tight fit and we've just found it way easier to put the bottom end in first because it's easier to put the motor mounts and cradle bolts in that way and just put the top end together afterwards.
I saw another detail that I wanted to ask you about. I seem to remember Commando Z plates on early Commandos, 1970/71, had the center area in a matte finish and the edges were polished. Virtually all Commandos I see now are like mine, completely polished. Perhaps it's just a camera artifact but are your Z plates matte with polished edges. If so, how did you do this?
We vapor basted the centers and polished all the flat sides and edges to a fine shine with 4-0000 steel wool and Autosol metal polish using other polish with steel wool might work as well.