(Just for the record here) -- Gary - I'm guessing you have completed this job already but there is a consideration in that the '68 -'70 Commandos had adjustable head bearings so the details around the fork yokes are slightly different. It's *basically* the same but if an owner is following these instructions and things look different around the steering head, just follow along with Jesse's instructions here, align everything carefully and it will all come out the same.
When you overhaul the forks: always replace the aluminium caps on the damper tubes too. The damper rod rubs in the cap, opening up the gap and letting more oil through = less dampening
When we work on stuff, we thoroughly inspect parts, The parts you are talking about were pretty tight yet and didn't look like the hole was elongated or worn. If the front forks aren't run real low or out of oil the bushings don't wear very much or at all. We probably could've measured them against a new dampner cap but it didn't feel necessary. Probably should've talked about that in the video. Thanks you have a great point though,
Isnt there a paper washer that goes on top of the bushing before the seal? Just curious if you missed that for a reason? Its part 31 on andovers diagram. Great idea with prefilling the oil before the tube.
Well that was a good question and we should've explained that in detail. The paper gasket is used with original seals, but we didn't use the original seals so the paper gasket wasn't needed.
Nice Work. I like the never leak seals...will consider them for my next fork seal replacement on my '74 850 Commando. Can you provide a source/link for them in the text box of this video? What if anything did you do with the fork chrome flaking? New parts or just reused them? Any chance you are planning to do an isolastic replacement on the rear unit? Never seen a video on that process with engine still in frame. Heard it can be done but need to see it.
Thanks, these seals are awesome, I will add a link in the video description glad to help, as for the chrome plating flaking off there was nothing we could do so we installed new tubes, now as for replacing the rear iso-lastic mount while the motor is in, is possible and we did it years ago and there is a chance we need to do it again coming up, but you are right there isn't a lot of stuff and information out there on these bikes,
Well, I have a friend who has a non numbers matching 1969 750 commando for sale all restored and very nice looking send me your email if you're interested and I can send pictures of it and his contact information,
@@jessesvintagegarage765 Let’s try this first. Don’t want to post full email because of spam. But from here my last name is obvious. Put my first name Dan in front of it, 123 after, no caps. At yahoo you know Yahoo!s domain. When bots get that good I may quit the net. Hit me back here after you send it so I get a notification. Not looking for a collectible. Probably going to be my last ride. Want a reliable fast sleeper. I like waking up sleepy drivers lol.
That works, but it takes a loooooong time for the oil to seep down into the internals and it tends to slosh out the top of the tube. The way Jesse shows here is quicker and tidier.
This is correct for the Commando forks. The 150cc is the correct specfication for Dominator-type Roadholder forks, the Commando fork tubes are a bit longer and need that extra ounce of oil to fully fill the damper internals.
I appreciate the video, but MAN do you guys need to invest in a fork seal driver and fork tube holder for your vise!! $100 = zero damage and futzing around trying to have your buddy hold it. Seeing that slider clamped in metal teeth and that screwdriver pushing down on the sealing washer really makes a man cringe a little.... But hey, thanks for the walk-through!
Well we weren't concerned about those tubes they were worn out and junk to us so no harm was done to anything that was used in the rebuild as we put new tubes in that front end. And has been working flawlessly ever since. Thanks I appreciate your comment, we do have the special tools and use them when we just replace the seals.
@@jessesvintagegarage765 I figured y'all know your stuff, and it makes sense now. I'm tackling those tubes next so I appreciate the info and motivation - cheers!
Great timing on this video, you put it up 19 hours ago and I'm about to begin the process myself on my 75' Norton. Thanks for the step by step!!
Thx for showing us this
Thanks guys, I have to replace the gaiters on my 69; Commando, so watching this was very useful.
(Just for the record here) --
Gary - I'm guessing you have completed this job already but there is a consideration in that the '68 -'70 Commandos had adjustable head bearings so the details around the fork yokes are slightly different.
It's *basically* the same but if an owner is following these instructions and things look different around the steering head, just follow along with Jesse's instructions here, align everything carefully and it will all come out the same.
When you overhaul the forks: always replace the aluminium caps on the damper tubes too. The damper rod rubs in the cap, opening up the gap and letting more oil through = less dampening
When we work on stuff, we thoroughly inspect parts, The parts you are talking about were pretty tight yet and didn't look like the hole was elongated or worn. If the front forks aren't run real low or out of oil the bushings don't wear very much or at all. We probably could've measured them against a new dampner cap but it didn't feel necessary. Probably should've talked about that in the video. Thanks you have a great point though,
Thanks for the tip. I’m about to order parts for my Commando. Can you give me the part number for the aluminum caps? Much appreciated!
Great work
Thanks
Isnt there a paper washer that goes on top of the bushing before the seal? Just curious if you missed that for a reason? Its part 31 on andovers diagram. Great idea with prefilling the oil before the tube.
Well that was a good question and we should've explained that in detail. The paper gasket is used with original seals, but we didn't use the original seals so the paper gasket wasn't needed.
3 tools you don't use working on vintage Norton motorcycles, pipe wrench, channel locks and adjustable wrench. Terrifying .
Well in this case all went fine it seems.
Include on that list, a screwdriver to pound in the bushings and seal. Better to use something like a piece of pvc pipe, then tap on that.
Nice Work. I like the never leak seals...will consider them for my next fork seal replacement on my '74 850 Commando. Can you provide a source/link for them in the text box of this video? What if anything did you do with the fork chrome flaking? New parts or just reused them?
Any chance you are planning to do an isolastic replacement on the rear unit? Never seen a video on that process with engine still in frame. Heard it can be done but need to see it.
Thanks, these seals are awesome, I will add a link in the video description glad to help, as for the chrome plating flaking off there was nothing we could do so we installed new tubes, now as for replacing the rear iso-lastic mount while the motor is in, is possible and we did it years ago and there is a chance we need to do it again coming up, but you are right there isn't a lot of stuff and information out there on these bikes,
Looking to find a Dominator Atlas or Commando. Approximately 1960-1975. Former Dominator owner.
Well, I have a friend who has a non numbers matching 1969 750 commando for sale all restored and very nice looking send me your email if you're interested and I can send pictures of it and his contact information,
@@jessesvintagegarage765 Let’s try this first. Don’t want to post full email because of spam.
But from here my last name is obvious. Put my first name Dan in front of it, 123 after, no caps. At yahoo you know Yahoo!s domain.
When bots get that good I may quit the net. Hit me back here after you send it so I get a notification.
Not looking for a collectible. Probably going to be my last ride. Want a reliable fast sleeper. I like waking up sleepy drivers lol.
@@mattgoodmangoodmanlawnmowi2454 my friend will be emailing you soon
Wouldn't it not better to fill the oil in from the top of the already fitted tube before mounting the top nut?
That works, but it takes a loooooong time for the oil to seep down into the internals and it tends to slosh out the top of the tube. The way Jesse shows here is quicker and tidier.
How hilarious
180 cc better. Just saying
This is correct for the Commando forks. The 150cc is the correct specfication for Dominator-type Roadholder forks, the Commando fork tubes are a bit longer and need that extra ounce of oil to fully fill the damper internals.
I appreciate the video, but MAN do you guys need to invest in a fork seal driver and fork tube holder for your vise!! $100 = zero damage and futzing around trying to have your buddy hold it. Seeing that slider clamped in metal teeth and that screwdriver pushing down on the sealing washer really makes a man cringe a little.... But hey, thanks for the walk-through!
Well we weren't concerned about those tubes they were worn out and junk to us so no harm was done to anything that was used in the rebuild as we put new tubes in that front end. And has been working flawlessly ever since. Thanks I appreciate your comment, we do have the special tools and use them when we just replace the seals.
@@jessesvintagegarage765 I figured y'all know your stuff, and it makes sense now. I'm tackling those tubes next so I appreciate the info and motivation - cheers!