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A very interesting method for synchronizing the carburetors. Another visual method is to completely assemble the carburetors with cables and twist grip on the bike but instead of mounting the carburetors, leave them free. This way you can use your finger tips to detect the slightest movement of each slide simultaneously and also visually. Make the cable adjustments until it feels and looks perfect.Also very important is an initial idle screw setting. Do this by dropping each slide in before assembling the cables etc and measure from the top of the slide to the top of the carburetor with the cap off. Adjust the screw for equal distance. Set the distance at about 1.25 inches for a bit of a high idle then adjust each screw down equal turns. Looking forward to seeing you finish this 68 T120!

awesome stuff thank you

What about a model 51?

Hey man, love your content! Quick question, what is the bearing kit you are using here. Looking for a new bearing kit and trying to figure out which one to use for my 68 bonneville.

I'm building a 65, and this is so helpful. Thanks

I learned something new today. I never thought to take the bowls off and watch the needles move together from underneath. That seems like a good way to do it. I usually take a couple steal rods of the same diameter and length, put them under the slides and watch them move as the slides go up. I also have good look putting my finger on one slide and then watching the other one as I slowly turn the throttle just a bit... you can tell if one starts to move before the other.

Looking good. Beautiful restoration so far. Can't wait to see her finished.

This series of videos is invaluable and very well done. I've worked on these bikes for years and learned a lot but these guides provide detailed and properly-done primer on a rebuild. Even if you don't plan a total rebuild, they instruct you on the proper way and the proper parts to address portions of a rebuild.

Another great video, love watching you guys work! Can’t wait to see her finished but I’m enjoying the ride so far! I actually looked up the torque setting for the oil feed dome nuts, same as my 76.

So when you were leveling the carbs with the bubble level how did you know that the bike was sitting level??

Can't wait to see that bike up and running. I wish someone would invent a simple tool for compressing the spring before putting the throttle cable into the slide. That's always a frustrating job. Also, getting the seat spring latch in there with the oil tank (or side panel) in place makes it tricky.

Beautiful work Jessie and Dad. Have you considered using original aluminum and John Bull rubber wire ties instead of those modern nylon wire ties?

Good job.

Hello, ZERO here. I just got my first street bike and it happens to be a 72 Triumph Tiger 650 Please forgive my ignorance, but I grew up in Las Vegas and all my riding experience was in the dirt. Primarily hard-pack, and lots of sand. I purchased my bike from a good friend and also he was my employer for many years so I know the bike is solid and has been restored correctly. He has many bikes and knows his shit if you know what I mean. I couldn't help but to notice the similarities in the bike featured in this video and mine. My paperwork indicates that I do have a 1972, but comparing my bike to yours, I see that the fuel tanks are identical along with the fenders and seat. This isn't a problem but moreover just confusion. Were there any changes made from 71 to 72 on the Spider that you were aware of? Thank you for your time I really appreciate it. Respectfully ZERO

Enjoying your videos ! One comment, after rotating the stator unit clockwise until the light goes on you have to then rotate the stator anti-clockwise until the light goes just goes off and then rotate it a further 2mm !! I didn't move the stator the further 2mm on my bike and as a consequence couldn't get it to start !!

Good work guys. I’ve heard a lot of negatives on Tri spark. Personally I’ve installed them on dozens of my own and customer bikes with virtually zero problems over thousands of miles. I believe the problem people are having is not having the complete wiring harness in good order. Loose/ bad grounds and dodgy connections will cause voltage spikes that will kill electronic components of any kind.

Was wondering if Jesse has an email address

I quit going to swap meets because of the ridiculous prices for parts and bikes, Their is no way in Hell a pair of old used knuckle heads are worth 2,500.00. Those old bikes are fun to restore and ride love them to death, But the rich deep pocket Bastards out there have ruined it for the average Kid or Hobbyist to own anything anymore. They have totally destroyed the Hobby so nobody but them can have anything. Now do not get me wrong I have owned a ton of Harley's Muscle cars etc, But give me a fucking break this is just way out of hand. But the good news is folks it is coming to a end by the next Decade people are not interested in millionaire hobby's anymore and those heads will only be worth there weight in scrap metal.The hobby will come back someday when the price of old bikes and parts go way down to rock bottom.

Appreciate the video it helped me out a lot thank you

Thank you for a well described video. I have a 78 T140E that is all original and seems to be having carb problems. Mechanic is telling me to go with the 930 premiers but the bike originally came with the Mk2s. Trying to determine whether i should get a new pair of mk2s or switch to the 930s. any insight you might have on your experience with the 930s would be highly appreciated.

Cool thanks, very helpful.

There is a handy product for temporary rubber lubrication called P-80. It would make your grommet installation slick and easy. The two positions on the light switch are intended for the pilot light only on the first click, (middle), then second click, (right) is for the head light. In England, the wiring was such that the pilot light and tail light (also the gauges if I recall correctly) would come on with the ignition off and key removed. The headlight would not come on with the ignition off. The pilot light system served as parking lights if parked on an unlit street at night. This was/is a law in England. I'm not 100% certain, but I think that some US market bikes were wired so that the pilot light system only operated with the ignition on. Soldering on the bullet connectors runs the risk of making the wiring brittle behind the bullet, which can easily break later. Crimping Lucas bullets or better yet, going to the Japanese style crimp on bullet connectors doesn't melt insulation or send solder creeping down the wire too far. Fun to watch the father and son team working together!

I really like the way you guys do business!

The standard pegs are way too far forward imo. I also had some rearsets on my 750 and it was far more comfortable on the open road.

That bike is looking good. Those chain guards with the skirt are kind of a pain in the butt to deal with. Taking it off and on or just raising it out of the way is more work than the regular chain guards. My 64 TR6 had on very similar but I switched to a different year chain guard that was the same design but without the skirt. I had to replace the original one so I figured if I was going to buy a new one I'd make life a little easier on myself and get the no skirt version. Also, getting the chain on the front sprocket can be a pain on these bikes. They don't make it easy.

Paint stripper is most effective when the surface is scratched up. Next time try scratching up the surface with 80 grade sandpaper, then apply a thick coat of stripper and cover with plastic. Make sure it is not in direct sunlight and let the chemicals do their job. You will have much better results.

first: its so nice that you skipped the "stay tuned" comment that you said about once every ten words in the 71 series, about the amals , in fact you have a set marked 300 and 301.

about stacking the piston rings: the reason for the "wrong" orientation is, that the rings migrate in the bore, when motor is running

Using a dial indicator on the tappets is a great idea. I've never had faith in getting the tappets set right. Now I will. Thanks for the great idea! Love your videos...

Great video and a big help to me as I’m doing a couple of transmissions. I’ve read the kickstart pawl should have between 7 - 10 thou end play but I’m having trouble with why so little. Once the spring gets installed there is zero play. If someone could explain reason I’d much appreciate.

Your rocker box video as well as this video lack the use of assembly lube or engine oil on parts as they are assembled. I didn’t see any lube applied to the cam lobes or tappets when you installed the cylinder block either. Do you have a pre-startup lubrication procedure? Is it something you do off camera? Showing that is more important than which side of a nut faces outward. Also the torque values you used on your 3/8 inch head bolts is too high. 18 foot pounds is recommended spec in the 1963-1970 Triumph workshop manual.

Looking good guys!!

I had an exhaust side push rode break on me while riding my T140 last year. I didn't realize was was happening at first... the bike would start but something was clearly wrong when it was running. Because the exhaust valve would no longer open all the pressure from the left cylinder was being pushed out through the intake valve and the carb. I knew something was wrong so I didn't attempt to ride the bike home. As soon as I got it back to my garage, I took off the inspection covers and slowly kicked the engine over. When my front left tappet didn't move at all I knew the push rod broke (plus I could look in there with a flashlight and see there was a missing push rod.) I was kinda relieved because that's not a crazy hard thing to fix. And it didn't do any damage other than gouge the rocker box a little. Could have been worse.

leaf spring indexing is the worst thing triumph ever did.

I wanted to ask for suggestions on a cam for my TR6 I ride rural not in the city plan on going with bigger front sprockets

Good Job!! Every body knows as you do now that the rocker boxes have to come off before you can get the motor out of the frame Well done protecting the frame with the rags I always forget about that

This is a great example of the reason for creating videos, you always have a record of the build so gives you something to check back on! There was a Triumph Service Sheet about tappets (No 67/7) which goes into detail about the variations. Also worth noting that it's a good idea check and see if you have the plain dowel and not the earlier metering jet in the timing cover, timing covers tend to get changed over time if damaged etc.

Good job making the fix after the error was pointed out. As I understand it, the oil feed to the Exhaust tappets was a design solution to slow wear of non hardened cam shafts. Nitriding of later and aftermarket cams took care of the wear issue, which is why some builders block the feed to allow more oil to be dedicated to the crank journals. The oil feed to the exhaust tappets wasn't used on the first couple of years of the unit engines, it started in 1966. I think starting in 1969, the cams were hardened by the nitriding process and the oil feed remained. Looking forward to your next video!

Great video once again. When I align the pressure plate I do it to the clutch basket edge rather than the clutch plate… the clutch plates can be slightly loose and not 100% aligned. Just my little tip!

Loving this series guys, great work!

You guys are one of the few that show every step of the process and I appreciate that. thanks.

jessesvintagegarage@yahoo.com

The change in this video, I felt that I had to take down the original version of this video. A mistake we made was brought to our attention and could have caused a problem with this bike. Thanks to ( kevinhelms7156 ), and luckily at this exact time of re-uploading this video with version 2 we haven't moved to installing the head yet, This means that the one who put this engine top end together before us installed the exhaust tappets wrong and we put it back together the same way we took it apart thinking we did it right without double checking. There are two pictures added to this new version explaining the correction, I will make a follow up video which will come out soon showing that we corrected this, sorry for having to re-upload this but I felt that I needed to fix this mistake and add the correct info in and the only way to do so was to remove the original version and I want to help keep anyone else from make the mistake also. Thanks

I was hoping to see you put the bottom end together, but I see you started with a rebuilt bottom end. In my latest Norton 850 build, I need to assemble the crankcase and wanted to see if your Dad had a recommendation for crankcase sealer gasket maker? I'm thinking about using Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker. Alternatively, I might use Permatex Motoseal but my concern is applying it correctly... not too little yet not too much.

Excellent video with good explanations. Helping me along with the restoration of my 68 Bonnie 👍

Great work you guys.... From across the pond 👍

Thanks so much Jesse and your Dad you are very patient guys I have been fully restoring my 71 Tiger in Australia and would not have been able to do it without watching your invaluable video. I have gone back and forth over your videos so many times and wanted to say thank you well done can’t wait to get mine on the road!

I really like the way you guys take care of business. I can't wait to see her done!

Also , if the cylindrical wicks are looser in the spindal , they are more able to absorb circulate the lubricant.

I had a heck of a time with my swing arm wicks and welch plugs. The new wicks were slightly over sized and wouldn't seat properly so I used the originals. Then I cleaned the welch plug seats with q tip and break cleaner and applied thin silicone to the plug seats. I went through three sets of welch plugs. If the wicks are not seated all the way the opposite plug will blow out. I was bald by the time I finally won.