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The removable front engine plate was only on the 1970 frame, Triumph finally made it easy to install the lump!.. Then changed to OIF and went back to fixed plates.

She's looking good. See you guys soon!

Is not good very slowly

Looking good, I have 1971 forks & yokes fitted to my 1969 Bonneville so have the later type gauge brackets but I much prefer the look of the earlier type you have, much neater!

Thank you for the referral. Enjoy the gauges.

Hi Jessee lm from NZ l just brought a 72 bonneville gold tank and the main fuse by the battery keeps blowing any clues please. There are some loose wires by the coils not connected.

Someone loved that scoot. Its got Headwinds.

I was wondering if there is a Part 15 and more I am restoring my 1967 Triumph 500 twin

I watched this entire video to see the cork, washer, spring and other washer and it’s not shown. Good video but I’m disappointed.

The easiest way to get a decent fork tube pulling tool, is just buy one of these fork tube pullers. The one we have is custom, There's other ones for sale, on ebay and different sellers this is just an example. www.eurojamb.com/products/fork-tube-puller-tool-triumph-norton-bsa-441-500-650-750-850

I am interested in finding a sourse for the same fork stantion puller used in Jesse's 1968 Triumph Bonneville restoration. Thanks

Hi Guys…. I just bought 72 Bonneville and was wondering if the Nuts, Bolts and Washers are just regular Thread and size that are available at a store like Fasteners? Enjoy your Videos. Thanks.

If you're shooting for a "from the factory restoration" and it seems you are, in 1968, the jeweled warning lamps are opposite of your installation. Red goes on the left/drive side and green goes on the right/timing side. Green is to let you know your ignition switch is still on, and red is the headlight beam. In 1969 when Triumph added the oil pressure switch/warning light, they went to red for oil and green for headlight beam. Keep up the good work!

I believe the video is fixed, I will work at getting better at proof reading, 🙂

Looking good. Nearly completed my 1969 Bonny project.

One of the segments got put in again and repeated, sorry for the confusion and inconvenience I some how I missed this while proofreading,

Back in 1978 I bought a 1967 Bonneville for $400. Owned it for 24 years. Still riding. Great job and good luck.

Hey guys great video, I installed the same setup I installed a 7081 billet aluminum can plate, and high flow oil pump, lifters and I have an existing G37 Andrews cam , easy s$s easy pushrods,With a '95 cubic inch motor ( on a 2005 15th anniversary Fatboy) My question to you is it's loud always been loud, but from the cam area it sounds like a 350 Chevy it's constant doesn't blow smoke runs like an animal, it just drains oil to the crankcase in two nights? My indie rip the bike apart twice to check for the o-ring on the oil pump and it was there. Just wondering what the loud 350 Chevy sound is lol, thank you in advance sorry for the length

Very few people watching but man this is super helpful, keep posting ❤

She really looks great I always liked the stainless steel fenders.

I'm restoring a '75 Mk3 with a COMPLETE teardown & rebuild.... and I just now stumbled upon your videos. EXCELLENT WORK!!! Between the silly manuals and "rebuild books," it's nice to see someone actually DO the steps who speaks good 'ol American English! Cheers to you guys!

Jessie… My name is Mike. I am restoring a 48 UL that I’ve had since 1989. Your videos are great. Where did you get the wiring harness? Thanks for all the videos. I’m 76 and have owned and built many bikes since 1965. I don’t ride anymore but love to work on them. Thanks

Really glad I found your channel in diagnosing my 73 tiger

Good job, bike is looking awesome. Quick question as I am wondering if I should powder coat or paint my frame. It looks like the stand will rub the paint off, will this be an issue for rust since it exposes the raw metal?

Perfect year for a restoration. I like the way you guys do business. She looks really good.

Did your S&S lifters have any numbers on them I ordered some from J&P cycles and they have 22 MA 24 CI on each lifter

Where can I get one of the felt. Washers?

I’ve really enjoyed your series of videos on the Commando restoration, great detail and thorough explanation of the whole process, it’s improved my knowledge of this wonderful machine enormously. Thanks guys.

I just got done restoring my '68 Bonnie. They're such a neat old bike.

Great work guys........... Honest and original, we like that 👍

Set up properly that is such a great brake. Thanks for the video

Excellent thorough explanation thank you. Really helpful thank you. I did notice that you didn't use the spacers listed in the parts manual (E12598) shown as going above the centre head bolts between the top ov the bolt and the inside of the rocker box. My friend Mark, who has rebuilt many T120s and T140s has never seen one used. Any information about these spacers welcome. Thank you again for brilliant, informative videos. Richard

Isnt there a paper washer that goes on top of the bushing before the seal? Just curious if you missed that for a reason? Its part 31 on andovers diagram. Great idea with prefilling the oil before the tube.

Nice job!

Thanks for the tip, my '79 Bonnie has about 9000 miles and I never thought to grease the speed drive. Will be doing that for sure.

Good content, thanks for sharing your project. Chrome has gone bad on all the casings on my 99 FXDL and still running spring tensioners that have no real signs of wear on the shoes at 25k miles,nothing looks like they have been changed.

Head gaskets going to leak now you loosened it, do it properly man,

Most of the reproduction parts seem to need a little fettling.

I like the way you guys do business!

At 1:04:43 I can see a dot and "TOP" on the ring just right of the 6-o'clock position. You flipped it back and forth, but it ended up the right way up. Really should use a ring file machine or make a jig to get the cuts perfectly square, otherwise you cause problems. Doesn't matter how you clock the rings because they'll rotate the way they "want" to anyway once it's running and breaks in. Good video though.

Very good video. Thank you

Combat engines were made to produce more power by increasing compresion and revolutions. However, if you revved them hard, the valves hit the pistons and the engine went Bang. For a 1949 500cc engine designed by the great Bert Hopwood, they survived being stretched to 600cc, 650cc, 750cc and 829cc. The Combat motor suffered from porosity, gasblows and a tendency to blow up. They can be set up properly, but the owner needs to be a wealthy enthusiast.

Thanks for the excellent tour!

paint works well

Great video watched from the beginning part one all the way to part four, glad you got a touring bike for the road for several years to come.

That red white 2 tone 56 nice

My friend Ed hunter had a 61 pan very similar to the 61 pan toward beginning of the video ❤

Looking for someone to work on my 1942 flathead

Your wrong im sorry but you are it was the BSA m20 that was the real liberator of Europe it was lighter faster more nimble and they built over 126,000 for England /Canada/Russia and served in almost Every theater of war from the 1938. it was the largest produced bike of WW2 Harley only produced 70,000 Norton built over 100.000. But the best bike of all was the German BMW R75.during WW2 more reliable built stronger and started up a lot easier. Americans say the Harley was the liberator of Europe because of pride but the numbers say otherwise. because they was so rare. It was also a common site to see the odd american riding a bsa m20. bloody facts hey there annoying arnt they lol. i hate bmws. Sorry my american freinds