Should You Use Racing Oil In Your Road Car?
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- Опубліковано 23 бер 2021
- What’s the difference between road car and race car (like NASCAR) oil?
Sponsored by Mobil 1 motor oil. Learn more about Mobil 1 full synthetic motor oil: bit.ly/mobil1-synthetic-vs-co...
What are the differences between race car oil, like the oil used in NASCAR, and the oil used in our everyday road cars? NASCAR oil regulations are fairly unrestricted, allowing for unique formulations, whereas road car oils need to meet very specific industry requirements for certifications. In this video, we’ll dive into the differences between engine design, drain intervals, oil viscosities, oil additives including zinc (ZDDP) and bespoke versus mass market formulas. I spent time discussing these topics with Mobil 1 engineering, Roush Yates Engines, and Stewart Haas Racing to find out more. Watch for all the details! #Mobil1Partner
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If you are watching this video, you already care about your car more than 95% of The population
Fax!
I don't even own a car.
You are still fooled by the term "Synthetic Oil".
@@amazoidal what do you mean?
@@amazoidal yeah, what are you on about?
“Road cars are rarely at full throttle”
Me *nervous laughter*
Any car is a racecar if you're brave enough
Think about changing your oil more often, already gone down to 6000 Miles :P
@@NoName-oj5km 6000? You monster? I feel guilty at 5000 on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.
no its true, my stand alone ecu keeps track of that sort of thing. I think I am a borderline reckless driver. The ecu shows I am over 95% throttle about 1% of the time. With full boost even less. Oh and within 1000 rpm of redline less than 0.1% of the time
Me: Laughs in Honda Civic
I tried racing oil and now my car doesn’t run right. I’m going back to gasoline.
😆
You put it in the wrong hole.
@@chitlitlah well I did at first. But then I noticed my windshield getting oily any time I tried to use the washer fluid. That’s what tipped me off.
Ohhhh @keco185 ... you are SO FUNNY !!! Ha! Ha! (Not!!)
If you had a diesel it would work but the injectors wouldn't like it.
I'm confused, I need the white board.
what part of the P didn't you got?
7 mins in I dozed off, had to go back, wrote this comment instead.
We'll see where the road takes me, boys.
😩😩😩😩
This is a scam video. That’s why there is no whiteboard. Made with AI and Deepfake methods.
Lies again? Sexist Gun Oil
3:55 "road cars are rarely at full throttle"
I can't be the only one...
Every straightish line lmao!
Rotary owner, every gear, but fifth and sixth.
Yes you are special. I can't Full Throttle mine without getting a ticket :p
@@sofakingdom3076 I was just thinking, a redline a day keeps the carbon away.
Well my truck doesn't technically have a "red line" per se on the cluster... but it gets pushed to the max on pretty much every on ramp! The ol' Italian tuneup is a time honored tradition thats proven to work
"Full throttle and almost 90% of the time" sounds like me driving my miata...
Yas
And me in my BRZ
@Red You are sus!
One must aways drive slow cars fast
Of course, those shits have 90hp 🤷♂️🤣
4:08 "90-95% at wot" that reminded me of when I use to drive small cc motorcycles. everything felt like a race on that thing
Give it everything! "I am giving it everything!" - Me in my Crosstrek.
Haha, if you've been to Italy there are many-a small Fiat which operate WoT 99% of the time. With the horn going 99.9% of the time!!
a CBR 150cc is honestly so fun on a super tight twisty road
@@pkennethv I normally ride a Yamaha R1, it does 154km/h in 1st gear so you never need to ride it hard. My friend asked me to ride her CBR 250 to the shop to get a new tire installed. She rode on the back, holding two new tires. "I'm givin her all she's got captain" felt so nice to ring her neck and not even be doing anything illegal. If I take my R1 to redline in 1st gear, even on our biggest highway, that would equal drivers license suspension and impound my motorcycle. Love small bikes.
@@toysareforboys1 I agree the small bikes can be more fun. It's why I kept my 500 ninja so long after getting an S1000RR. Many bikes between the two, not just a step up. The S1000RR does 151km/h in first and doesn't let up with the quick shifter. I have long highways around here and can get well into the 220+km/h territory, but if a cop caught me I'd get a ticket. Luckily at those speeds they aren't suppose to chase. Not that I do that a lot.
On the 500 though you had to ring all the life out of that engine and it was enjoyable to hit redline multiple times a ride in multiple gears. Light then the S1000RR too, so it was flick-able.
I would like to see a video on the "lifetime" transmission fluids that some car manufactures are putting in their vehicles now.
“Lifetime” in my experience means “change me in 30k miles”
Lifetime = life of the warranty
Yes, that would make for a great video.
And those terrible multi vehicle formulas.
Lifetime actually means 100k. Mi
Great video! My '96 Accord is at 386,000 and I plan to exceed 500k on the engine. Regular maintenance is key!
My word how much work have you done to it ? Suspension and all that good stuff
@@josephmcgowan4436 I haven't don't a full suspension overhaul. Just replace parts as needed. Other than changing the oil and filter regularly, I just try to do good maintenance. Like keep the air filter clean, making sure the bearings, brakes, and everything is just in good working order. It'll need a clutch soon. I could baby it for a while but my daughter is going to be driving it soon.
Hats off, man.
Mostly highway miles?
@@jc.1191 it's a mix of highway and city
I’m that guy that would spend $600 on an oil change, and eat ramen for 6 months. Worth it. 😎👌🏻
Doctor: mr. Budelman you have too much blood in your salt stream
Take a shot every time you hear ZDDP.
I'm not trying to die from alcohol poisoning today. 🤣🤣
How many times did he say Zddp 🤔🤔🤔
@@JustinPaul1st 23 times =/
@@iKRPictures 😁😁😁😁you counted
i stop counting after 13 times, and boy.... this rum really has gone to my head right now
Me: *trying to study for school*
EE: Should you put racing oil in your street car??
Me: Good question!
Way way back in the day. The engine manufacturer of a vehicle I owned strongly recommend 10 w30. I thought I knew better. 15 w50 has to be better! Wrongo bongo said a few main bearings. The oil passages in the block and cylinder head were restrictive to the thicker oil. Sure the oil pressure gauge read higher. My uneducated choice was starving the bearings of lubrication. For a High School kid it was a very bitter pill to swallow. Conversely too thin and the same result.
Everyone can armchair engineer all they want. Use the oil the manufacturer recommends.
One of these on diesel engine oil would be interesting. Especially the whole CK-4 (Compression ignition rev K, 4 Strok) and SN (Spark ignition rev N) compliant oils, and the Ford TSB on it. Made me dig way deeper into the actual oil certifications.
Yep, Ford WSS-M2C171-F1 spec. Basically called out that ck-4 wasn't backwards compatible.
@@tangydiesel1886 technically, Ford reviewed a variety of CK-4 oils in 2016 and found that the API rating alone was not enough to guarantee their preferred phosphorus level. The 171-F1 spec does appear on some oils meeting CK-4. They're not mutually exclusive.
I use diesel oils in my gas engines. 5w40 Amsoil or Mobil 1 Delvac. Turbo applications benefit from it all day.
I make french fries in diesel oil. Gives them an extended shelf life.
Glad to see we're talking about ZDDP today. This is the big debate in my Jeep YJ group. We get the joys of flat tappet lifters AND catalytic converters.
What I find the most unnerving about modern engines and lubrication, is that we still can't buy a vehicle equipped with a prelube system from the factory. As much as 60% of wear occurs at startup. There's absolutely no reason why they can't plumb an engine with with a pressurized prelubrication system. Mercedes did it back in the 20s, and it should've become an industry standard.
@@glengillham4629 - very true. Also, since every major engine now has roller cam follower or lifters, they've reduced the zinc content (for good reasons) but it there are other areas that have suffered for lack of startup lubrication. Areas of peak sideloading in the cylinder, especially.
That's why modern engines use thinner blends like 0w20 for example.
@jessicacopeland1644 Surfaces are never devoid of an oil film, so I am having a difficult time understanding startup wear problems. Also considering the combustion chamber incinerates any oil film but cylinder walls and piston rings can survive with minute wear for tens of thousands of hours with regular oil changes.
what about a delayed start relay built in so the starter HAS to revolve a dozen times or so, rotating the crankshaft and thereby, the oil pump?
before ignition? does that push enough oil up to help prevent dry starts?
My '02 Chevy 8.1 lights up about the third starter revolution.starts right up.
@@kevinedwards7206 The issue is not as critical as some people state. We are only talking about initial cold starts, not subsequent re-starts?
What I’ve learnt ( the hard way) is race brake pads , track tyres , track suspension , ect ect don’t work as well as the same road items on the road.
Race oil is no different .
Yeah, nothing like go out in the morning for a coffee and press the brakes in the intersection and stop like 20 meters off the intended distance.
@@joseacuna3239 Yes you’ve obviously had race pads lol!
Also noisy and harsh pedal feel and some have paint damaging brake dust .
I discovered every modification to improve track performance had a negative impact on road driving.
Road oils need to be compatible with the cars emission systems like the cat and GPF or DPF , leave low carbon deposits, have long drain intervals, easy cold starts, low evaporation ( hopefully help reduce intake valve carbon build up) , good detergent package as well as lubricating moving parts . Basically it needs to work over a wider range of conditions than a race car oil.
@@joseacuna3239 Or get your coffee spilled due to the combination of speed bump and track suspension
@@Puddingtops got you, driving a full blown race car on the streets is never a good time and I’ve learn that the hard way. Now I’m balancing with a nice daily (Honda for reliability) and a race car, daily take me places and race car take me to podiums
@@yzhang8629 Or cracking your head open on the roll cadge going over a speed bump😡
"Imagine owning a car that needed oil changes every 500 miles"
*sweats in rotary oil guzzler*
*laughs in weekly oil refills in my old honda*
I once bought a used car that the previous owner changed the oil religiously every month. I couldn’t believe it until the dealer showed me the printout of all the service records for the car.
@@josephpatricio851 I had service records for an old volvo that showed the owner would change oil, all filters and transmission fluids every week. Had a peak into the the engine with an endoscope and it was clean as a whistle. Bit over excessive but can't complain really.
Weekly seems like it would hurt rather than help @@VexxedSR
Love these vids, always precise and clear. Teaches a lot.
In third party tests, Amsoil runs laps around Mobil 1. Penzoil comes in second.
Pars, I would like to see that information. Your source, please.
@@stevewilson9792 parts farm on UA-cam and basic looking up info about the TBN and additives on the oil, doesn't get any harder than that lol
Good analysis and now I understand better the reason some of today's motor oils have been reformulated.
I recently quit using Mobil 1 in my C4 ZR-1, based on a recommendation from the C4 ZR-1 guru, Marc Haibeck from Haibeck Automotive in Addison Illinois.
The LT-5 dual overhead cam engine originally recommended the use of Mobil 1 and it came from the factory filled with it. All 11 quarts.
According to Marc, the zinc phosphorus content of a motor oil used in this engine is critical to minimize cam wear.
Mobil 1 reformulated their traditional oils and decreased these respective contents of zinc and phosphorus over the years compared to their original oil recommended by Chevrolet.
I did not understand the "why" until I saw this video.
I have switched to AMSOIL which has a higher content of zinc and phosphorus compared to the current reformulated Mobil 1 products.
I have used Mobil 1 products in all of my "normal" cars since the late 80's.
I have had hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles driven with never an oil related issue.
I was not aware Mobil 1 had a Racing Oil that would meet the needs of my ZR-1 once again. I will run this video past the C4 ZR-1 community for their feedback.
As always a great video and thanks.
Thanks for the in depth info once again. Here I was thinking I was going the wrong direction for my S2000 that sees track/road use. I'll keep using the normal oil and focus on speed mods like a new visor on my helmet...
Thank you for this info. It makes sense to have these differences in oil. As we all know, horsepower costs money, and if you spend $100 and get 1 extra hp, your one up on the competition!
Prediction: I should put the oil my manufacturer recommends in my car.
Yep manufacturer's recommended viscosity Mobil 1 street oil, I'm guessing he's getting a pretty good check for this one.
it also depends on what is your geographical location. I have skoda and viscosity differs from 0w-30 when you live in arctic zone or Siberia and to 10w-50 when you live in hot or tropical climate. The most important thing are manufacturer norms that are selected f.e. in my case it's VW 502/507 and in my father's car (Opel Astra) is GM Dexos 2+
Just use water... should be fine
@@michalkuna1994 Very true! Here in Finland we use very thin oils like 0w-30, 5w-30 etc. Use some 15w-50 when it's -20°C and the engine won't even start 😅 And like you said, the manufacturers standard is the simplest way to know if the oil is compatible with your car, location is what determines viscosity.
@@niconutz898 Well said👍
High ZDDP (and highly priced) Joe Gibbs oil for my 996 engine soon to fight that inevitable bore scoring...at 6 month recommended change intervals.
But zero weight wonder elixir for my Prius Prime; what a crazy world we live in.
I use joe gibs driven DT40 5w40 in my big turbo 2.0 I4. Fully built motor and head. Worth the $70 oil change. Daily driver
Your videos are enjoyable and educational.👍
Thanks!
This was an excellent explanation and clears a lot on what I would use or recommend in certain applications . 👍👍
You always do a great video with great info. Thank you very much.
This video reaffirmed my choice to use Liqui Moly oils.
8:11 "this dramatically reduces wear"
Cries in chrysler
Very nice video! Great explanation and information is awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Great video. You covered this topic perfectly!
Absolutely right.
I have to order my high zinc oil from Summit, for my flat tappet engine. The majority of off the shelf oils are detergent oils and do not protect as well as my high zinc oil
Diesel engine oil....
"Detergent oil", I believe you just invented a new word, congratulations! :P
Oreilley stocks 5 quart containers of valvolines high-zinc oil, I've been putting that in my truck for years now
@@PSA78 No... there are detergent and non detergent oils. Engine oil is detergent oil. ISO oils are typically non-detergent.
@@Benlucky13 You do have to be careful with high zinc oils, as they will destroy a catalytic converter.
Could you do a video on aviation oil vs automotive oil? I know some tuners such as bisimoto use aviation oil in their builds.
even as a long time lubrication engineer, still nice to learn stuff from the automotive side.
Thanks for your videos. Lots of really good information.
i've been buying new cars for 40 years. i change the oil in them with the current spec. regardless of brand. never had any perceptible engine wear. the interior and body ALWAYS degrade first. why the drama over the "best" engine oil? if it says racing on the label--it's for race cars. now i'm done.
So the answer is yes you can, in the summer, since it will flow like crap in cold weather, BUT... if the zinc content is higher in the race oil, it will foul your cats faster. If you expect 200k miles out of your cats, it may not be a good idea to use race oil, but then again if you drive it like you need race oil....you won't hit 200k cheaply anyways, if you even make it there. XD
At least that is my take on this info.
people that buy race oil..........don't have cats
O2 sensors die in a couple thousand miles.
Alot of quality info. Thanks!
I use Valvoline VR-1 or She'll Rotella for my 78' Oldsmobile Delta 88 "Weekend Cruiser" and my 2000 Jeep XJ I just completely rebuilt from the ground up. But, my 99' Crown Vic uses Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic, and my wife's 2016 Focus ST uses Motor raft Full Synthetic. The racing oil and Rotella helps my 350 Rocket, and my Jeep's 4.0I6 tappets. But, they are not needed on the Vic or the Focus. Racing Oil had it's uses. I also used VR-1 to Break in the Jeep's 4.0 when I got the engine done. They are wonderful for older engines and brak ins.
If you adhere to your manufacturer’s suggested oil change intervals and type, you will get tired of your car before the engine wears out.
GM and Chrysler (FCA, whatever it’s called this week) have a solution to this problem....
Unfortunately not always the case when they recommend longlife oil. 😬😂
True. But if you have a dream car you wanna keep forever it’s better to change oil earlier.
That's exactly what you DONT do...Oil should be changed generally every 5-6k miles, depending on your driving style. Manufactures recommending 10-20k intervals are trying to kill your engine so that you end up having to buy a new car every (x) years or so. That's how the business flows, bottom line
@@S1lverArr0w 10,000 miles is perfectly acceptable for a modern, full synthetic oil. But there is nothing forcing you to go that long on it.
Thanks for the video. Learnt more about ZDDP. The more common additive in race spec Oils is Moly. Does that cause any harm or benefit?
Also race Oils are generally Type 5 Ester based, so do not need so much pour point suppressants as they cling on to the cylinder walls. Thoughts please @engineeringexplained
You have some of the best informative videos on U tube
When Moto Guzzi went from 1100 to 1200 in their engine used in the Griso (around 2011 - 2012) they used DLC coated flat tappets. The DLC coating got beaten to death and Guzzi had a warranty program (but never a recall) to convert the engine to roller tappets. I had the 2012 model (the best looking one by the way..... :^) ) and had the work done at 8K. There was anecdotal evidence that engines that went too long for the upgrade, with all the dead guts of the DLC swirling around in the oil took out the big ends. Naturally there was hot discussions about this on the forums. :)
Simply use the oil that's specified in your owners manual. Your car is gonna thank you especially in winter.
Opinion on AMS oil?
@@vGREENARROWv amsoil synthetics are some of the best oil you can use if you don’t mind paying the premium. Probably worth it on expensive engines that hit the track, but not necessary for dailies. Just stay on top of oil changes most importantly and use something decent like Castrol, Mobil, or even amazon basics. I like to use genuine/oem filters as well but wix is a great alternative.
@@hazemmohamad3344 ok because I’m not going on a track just cruising around.
@@vGREENARROWv Use the correct viscosity and follow change intervals. Never pass the 10,000 km mark and if the car is used in severe conditions(small distances everyday where the engine doesn't have the time to reach operating temperatura and never goes beyond 2th-3th gear.
If you want to take extra care use full synthetic, theres some pretty good stuff like mobil and castrol at reasonable prices. If you are an car pervert with money to spend use motul, amsoil or redline.
YES it's okay to use Racing Oil. IF you know what you're doing. Reserach the TBN and base the intervals on that. Racing oils usually have a TBN similar to regular Oils, so there's nothing to worry about. Also, look at the additives present. If it's a modern formula with Molybdenum and Boron or even organic friction modifiers then don't put it in your 40 year old Muscle Car. If you don't understand it, don't use it. And don't think anybody else but you is liable if your engine does go kaboom.
This is fascinating, Sir. Thanks for sharing.
Needed to top up my older chevy and picked up a quart of Mobil1 today!
I find the zinc additive interesting as I believe it is necessary in my snowblower. A snowblower engine is generally running at max load during its entire operation. I have never had zinc additive explained like this before, Thanks!
You are lucky to reach 100% load 80% of the time. Depending on the engine it probably has flat tappets. Just run diesel oil in it and call it a day.
@@ShainAndrews my point is it’s under high stress all of the time and the zinc will help the valves.
@@ShainAndrews that’s an excellent idea. I haven’t thought of it for an application like this.
@@JAMESWUERTELE It's all we have ever run for two generations. Small engines will pull start in the winter on 5w-40. No need to change it out for summer operation. Have a 20hp gas compressor. Probably 1500 hours on it now. Runs like a champ dead of winter, or peak summer.
Any engine oil that is recommended for a snowblower will have zinc in it, but the load isn't that bad with its low springpressure so it's no point in going above and beyond.
Bottom line: Oil it makes the parts slippery.
Slippery parts = happy parts.
> "Slippery parts = happy parts."
That's what she said.
Nice One Jason!!! I use for my BMW M2 BMW oils. My Lexus also using Lexus oils. Never had one issue. I used to be the dude who was also at the local store trying to buy the next best oils and filters. Because I did not trust the dealer oils. I know now that oils are built to run with that engine setup - Great video!
BMW oil is Shell.
Its just who pays then. If you have an close look you will see all these "brand oils" are produced under licenses, the best oils are full synthetic. Motul, amsoil and redline all make top tier synthetic oils.
Great article. Could you please comment on a shim-under-bucket style system, common in motorcycle/OHV that doesn't use a roller lifters but also has lower spring pressures. In addition, some have wet clutches and others don't. How does ZDDP amount affect these situations? I would guess it's not needed in either.
Someone has to make a ring tone of him saying "ZDDP"
why are you not talking about ZDDP during engine start up and extended idle times?
THAT is why ZDDP is still important.
Catalytic converters are super expensive though, enough so that they can total some cars when they fail. Would you like cars to have very expensive failures more often? That's the balancing act they have to play.
@@cpufreak101 no they're not. I can get cats for my truck for less than $300, and that's for 2 of them! and it takes a long time for the zinc to clog up the cats if it even does. I have always run my trucks on high zinc oil and I have never had to replace a catalytic converter.
@@ElectronicsForFun your truck doesn't equal all cars. I sell them for a living trust me when I say some of them can go for $4000 for the full set
I've been running Mobil1 Synthetic in my 1996 Jeep XJ 242 since break in, have 360,000+ mi. on it now. Mobil1 5W-30 or 0W-30. Filters have been Fram, MOPAR, and WIX. Neither the valve cover nor the oil pan have been taken off for anything. I do need to change that factory valve cover gasket, but it leaks less it seems with Mobil1 Synthetic High Mileage.
I use 17 Oz 10w 30 full synthetic natural gas Pennzoil high mileage oil, the yellow and red Pennzoil bottle with 1 oz of Lucas zinc zddp in my built Tillotson motor and because it's a flat tappet cam it helps with the wear so much. Granted it is a built motor but I use it for Street applications just riding around normally with the occasional Full Throttle.
Have you ever thought about doing testing between multiple different oil brands? I know there are tons of different oils each manufacturer makes, but you could narrow it down to one viscosity and maybe all of them have to be their top full synthetic. Doesn't have to be that, but something like that to simplify it. What kind of tests you do I guess is up to you.
He wont cuz he’s paid by Mobil1
You mentioned saving money and using it for other power gains. Ever thought about doing a video about E85/other ethanol tunes?
^^Please!
Do u not know that already ? Lol that info gets released on the brochure of the car and with e85 you already know how much you're going to gain depending on your engine setup
On point, as usual!!!
👍
Is there any chance you might discuss, in a future video the pros and cons of emergency brake (cable) v parking brake (servo).
Sorry I can’t hear you over my bored and stroked HEMI “daily driver” haha no seriously great video.
Why aren't you talking about the EPA and RPM act?
I love driving at WOT and seeing the Blue Smoke out the back.
That just means you're going warp speed!
I use Royal Purple 0-20wt in my Camry. Good stuff.
It’s a Camry the thing would probably go 50,000 miles with no oil. (exaggeration)
I took a drink every time you said zddp..now I'm drunk..
Out of curiosity, which car runs on a 20k mile oil change interval? I have heard of people inadvertently running a 20k mile oil change interval with no detrimental effects (which is a serious credit to modern engine design and oil performance), but not as a recommendation from an OEM.
I remember at one point seeing a van that advertised a 20K interval, but I forgot from who
I recently working as a mechanic and just had a 2020 ford suv that required 0w-16
in North America there are not Ford vehicles calling for that oil. Where are you from?
What a great informative video, I run 5w30 mobile 1 synthetic in my Roushcharged S550 Mustang , a bunch of my friends, same 750whp.. stock internals, use 5w50, I have cats on my car so I continue to use 5w30 and have no issues is it worth the switch to 5w50?... guess not
Interesting. In our spec Miata race series we also change oil after every other event - or about 4 hours of running but we're using mostly standard engines and we want them to last several seasons. We use basically any decent 5w30 oil - any advantage to using a race oil in this application?
You might get a very slight HP advantage with a racing oil. The SAE viscosity grade is a reflection of the bulk oil viscosity, but at many of the lubricant film interfaces (piston rings, cams, crank case bearings etc) what really governs the friction is the traction coefficient. Racing oils tend to be formulated with better base oils (mPAO vs cPAO or Group III) in which the lubricant molecules are able to slide past each other more easily in the contact zone. That reduces friction losses and help milk a couple more HP.
@@LubricationExplained Good info - thanks. So much of what people do is influenced by what they see others doing in the paddock rather than science. A couple of hp is almost equal to a couple of percentage points in a series like mine :-D
When I heard Stewart-Haas Racing, my ears perked up, I love NASCAR
great video
now one question, what if I put racing oil on a street engine but do not do the high revs, of course I won't get the extended interval benefit of street Mobil1 but what effects are there foreseen? would it really break out at 500 miles? half of the street Mobil1 oil interval like 5,000miles?
Happy face for gallon oil fill. Def gonna try that
I run my highly prepared classic cars with "racing oils", which means tons of zinc, 10w60 (yes, this exists !) for easier cold start compared to 20w50 and higher oil pressure when hot (and bothered) in the summer. My classic mini with its A-Series pushrod engine revs up to 8k rpm when needed (=when I need to hear a beautiful sound) but rarely sees over 7k even when driven hard in those french B-roads and high viscosity, high quality oils are a part of what helps this engine not grenading itself, considering it only has 3 bearings. For road use, go thick, you don't really need those 2-5% theoritical increase in HP, and you will keep those horses for longer.
I use 10w-60 in my Harley's and yes it is much easier to start
When I got my first Alfa Romeo back in the 1980s the official recommendation was 10w50, but you couldn't buy it where I lived. Fortunately it was rare to need to start the engine in freezing temperatures, so mostly used 20w50. Later on had a race prepared Alfa and sometimes used a 25w50 Pennzoil, which is what the engine builder had used. One again, not too many cold starts. Having 10w60 available these days is kinda crazy.
Another great review. I am no engineer but for daily drivers, this isn't exactly rocket science. I feel that for any daily driver the oil you use doesn't much matter as long as it is roughly in line with manufacturer specs and changed regularly with a premium filter (skip the Fram).
Been running amsoil dominator, change oil every 2k. Car run smoothly and maintain excellent oil pressure better than regular oil
Tell me please, what about once in a while using a metal treatment in your oil, such as one called "dura lube". I used to use dura lube all the time and one time I had a crash and had to drive 5-miles with no coolant and thought for sure the next day my pistons would be forge sealed. Conversely, the car started very easily, and actually felt very smooth. Since then, I have been sold on Dura Lube, what's your take on this? Thanks, and super great video by the way!
What are your thoughts on the Audi S4 B9 being switched to 0w-20 oil when Europe still uses 5w-30? I am not happy having to use 0w-20, would you use it?
No, I'd go 10w40 or 15w50
I use 5W40 in my 1.8L turbo Jetta.
Could you do a video debunking the myth that smaller engines in performance cars are more likely to break than larger engines. Due to them "having to work harder". I personally think it doesn't effect reliability, but maybe I'm wrong.
I am afraid there is nothing to debunk.
When you think about it, you can notice a difference in strain that needs to be put on an engine to do certain amount of work, between smaller engines and their bigger counterparts, and we are talking about performance cars, those are not going to be driven in calm manner.
On top of that i need to specify that i am writing about engines wearing out
Smaller, turbocharged direct injection engines experience low speed pre ignition (a form of engine knock) much more than large engines, so there’s definitely something to the myth. In fact, the major OEMs (Ford, GM etc) demanded the new GF-6 engine oil spec specifically to address LSPI because it is becoming so widespread.
Effectively, at low revs / high load (acceleration phase) the fuel dumped into the combustion chamber dilutes the engine oil and you get a volatile mix that self combusts before the spark plug fires. The pressure wave runs in the reverse direction of piston movement and can tear apart the top landing pretty quickly.
Lubricant chemistry also seems to play a part - so in GF-6 oils the detergent chemistry is moving away from Calcium to Magnesium.
Hope that helps a bit!
@@LubricationExplained Best exemple is the L15B7 from Honda 1.5T, the pre ignition drive me nuts, looking my kcontrol on ktuner and running always 91+ gas.... i really hope the new GF-6 engine oil will help.
If you look at engine rotations per mile, it’s often engines that run at lower rpm that last so long. If the same engine had to turn 50% more in a lifetime it would wear more. Aircooled VW engines always live a shorter life in busses than beetles. Busses are geared higher and are heavier. I think it’s a given.
@@LubricationExplained glad I have MPFI
I put about an additional ounce to 2 ounces of zddp on top of 16 ounces of high-mileage Platinum Pennzoil for my stroker mini bike. Because of the flat tappet cams used in small engines. I will say I put probably 1400 miles on that engine beating it up, as like a sleeper road bike. So far no problems I will say I do feel a slight reduction in power but it's still reaches its top speed and has plenty torque
Mobil 1 has come back to me as my favorite oil. I'm really liking both Mobil 1 Extended Performance and Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage with Purolator BOSS oil filters running 10K OCIs. I keep my eye on the oil level, but otherwise don't worry about the oil between oil changes.
I'm confused, Jason. You said racing but then you started talking about NASCAR. 😉
nice
I'm installing a supercharger in my BRZ, I live in Southern California so the summer heat will require me to go from 0w-20 to at minimum 5w-30 and due to the the stress changes I will have to use an oil with slightly higher ZDDP. So I chose 5W30 Motul 300V, granted I wish they made it with a little less ZDDP as 1300 ppm is "usually" the max useful limit before it affects the the vitality of an engine, theirs is 1724 ppm. +424 ppm doesn't seem to much over but I will find out after the next oil change(every 3000 miles) when I have the oil tested.
Do you feel a lot of difference in hot weather with the viscosity change?
Vitality of engine or cats?
In 1969 we used 20-50 in our 440 Mopar HP engines. While at the track, we'd watch the 'big boys' run straight 60 weight. Today, we use 5-30 in our 650 HP Corvettes. The car I drive home uses 5-20 in it's V8, and my wife's car uses 0-16. Of course, you don't buy a race engine for MPG, but this shows how oil technology is headed to lighter oils and longer oil changes for the masses.. in the years to come, I'd imagine no oil for our electric cars..
Electric motors still need lube ;)
Though not as much as a regular ICE.
OK, smarty pants, but try to change that oil filter... haha.
I change the oil in my ZL1 about every 2k... and when I track it I run a race oil for the weekend and change it back to a road oil. I changed my oil before I got paid to change my oil... i just like the way it feels!
Can I have your used oil?
9,000 rpms vs 2,000 rpm big difference in engine wear.
Use manufacturer recommended viscosity and change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles, regardless of printed interval.
Nah 7.500 miles are fine
Yes
If you want to waste money and increase your environmental impact, then this is good advice.
@@deviouslaw it's not bad advise though, you can never change your oil too often.
You make no sense. Guy says use the recommended viscosity but don't use the recommended interval 🤣 I'd say the complete opposite.
Because the lower viscosity recommend is only to meet caafe mileage standards while under warranty.
What do you think about WPC treatment on engine component. I do track my car most of the time and I do want to make sure I get the maximum reliability of the engine in the long run. I'm doing a rebuild right now so any input is greatly appreciated.
@Engineering Explained, speaking of NASCAR, you could definitely dive into the realm of the "dog box transmissions" used in their stock cars to make shifting a manual transmission instantaneous (who doesn't love slamming gears? ;) )
Racing oils work wonders in small engines and equipment hydro systems, as the extra ZPPD and phosphorus really allow the engines and pumps to last a long time. Road oils have much less of those because they ruin cats.
Wat u remove the cat say on a classic will it matter then?
@@kingzionmusic I'm not enought of an expert to know for sure, but If it's classic enough for the computer to not notice it gone (or no computer at all) probably. There are classic car oils out there thought you probably should try first. I know amsoil makes some, as well as royal purple. Most of these guys have a info line you can call for more info on their products.
New oil to test is New Molygen Liqui Moly for any series
Overrated oil. Mobil 1 0w40 is just as good. Did a UOA on my 95’ S6 and Mobil performed slightly better. Cheaper too.
Professional and detailed information
Sweet, I've been using the Mobile 1 race version of 10W 40 in my straight pipe race ski. Sounds like I'll stick with it.
You have a great opportunity to ask mobile 1s team about anything. If at all possible, could you ask them about motorcycle racing oils? Since the oil also lubricates the clutch I'm very interested in knowing about what goes in it
Thanks in advance
The Redline [racing] motorcycle oil appears to have +2000ppm ZDDP whereas most 4T oils have about +1200ppm.
@@mattf2535 thanks for the tip
I use diesel engine oil in my racecar because of its high zddp content
I would love to see a video about mobile one v-twin oil. Especially if you compared it to syn3 oil or talked about the Harley m8 engine in general.
I would like to see this too. My Harley m8 114 has the same size cylinders as my Honda Civic while being smaller and lighter
Well stated and presented.
"imagine changing oil every 5000 miles..."
Subaru owners: I'ma pretend I didn't hear that.
I change it every 3000, so what
@@kristoKR-zj8oi There was a story on Yahoo about oil change intervals. Their opinion was you can quit changing your oil every 3k miles and go for 5-7000k miles to save money and natural resources.
This was back when full comments were still happening. 100s of comments about "I go x miles," and such. Then there was a comment by a guy who claimed he was an "SAE-certified" mechanic. He said the only way to know for sure is to have your used oil lab tested. He recommended Blackstone Labs. They do lab tests on consumer vehicles by sending you a sample-gathering container that you ship back to them, which they use to perform the tests.
I tried it and the lab test report said I had too much lead in my oil - I was either adding lead to my fuel or my main bearings were wearing out prematurely. They were correct - I only got 395,000 miles out of that Camry.
@@pistolpete9978 i dont think oil interval should depend on miles... Mostly on driving style, how high the engine revs and so on... My car revs at 3000 rpm at 60 mph, so it spins a lot for low speed...
ZDDP is great for flat tappets. Hard to find these days unless you spend a lot on oil. As an example, the Jeep 4.0 I6's benefit a lot.
Edit: should have waited, he covered the flat tappet part. Thanks for covering the important bits as always!
15w50 Mobil 1 has it
Valvoline VR1 is the oil most flat tappet or solid lifter engine users turn to
Standard grade oil should be fine for most all applications in consumer cars. I bought a $10k Escort in 94 and planned to drive it for many years. I started using a synthetic oil. At just 50k miles someone t-boned my car and almost totaled it. Having worked on cars all my life I replaced the two doors, rocker panel and B-pillar, pocketing $6k. Figuring the car was mostly depreciated, I dropped collision/comprehensive coverage and started using the cheapest oil I could find, many times Walmart Tech something. I was still changing the oil on the manufacturer's normal use recommendation. At 180k miles the engine was still running great, but the car was otherwise starting to wear out. I then doubled the change interval and the car just kept going. At 260k miles the car was rear-ended and totaled, but the engine was still the strongest part of that car. I've never paid for anything more than the manufacturer's recommended oil since and I've never had an oil caused failure. I don't change oil any more as I gave up on gas engines the better part of a decade ago.
Hi, At what temperature does the oil lose its characteristics and must it be changed? A road oil must be changed every time i go to the track?