"All the grain continues through the walnut, so that should make it look cohesive and harmonious" It's very interesting to hear stuff like this because I'm about 99% sure the customer will never notice or care about that small detail, but watching you take pride in it is watching an artist at work.
It’s always a pleasure watching a master at work and enjoying themselves while doing it. I was just looking at the Shaper Origin a few weeks ago at Rockler but will definitely be giving the marquetry a try at some point just as an interesting skill.
Thanks a ton! This was a fun project to try out both processes. I’ll never get away from hand cut marquetry but the Shaper has me thinking of new and much larger projects!
Your work is amazing, Ramon. I really enjoyed watching how the marquetry process is done. I have appreciated your contributions on the Woodworkers' Podcast as well. Thanks for posting this. I'm looking forward to making some small stumbling attempts into marquetry soon!
Thank you for the good words! Just about anything is soooo much easier to learn these days! Including Marquetry. The double bevel technique is my fav! Once you get the angle right for a good fit, then it just takes a little practice. Reach out if you have some questions.
Excelente tutorial Ramón , la marquetería y las incrustaciones , elevadas al máximo nivel , muchas gracias por compartir tanta creatividad y conocimientos , un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón , Galicia ( España) 😜 🤓
Nice video Ramon, thanks. I am a bit surprised that the Origin result was not as tight as the marquetry one. I suppose that's because the marquetry bevel is great at hiding imperfections. Or, ...... maybe your hand cutting technique is just stupendous! Perhaps you should raise the prices on your marquetry pieces. Paul
I was surprised myself. With the research that I did (surrounding doing inlay with CNC or Shaper Origin) the overall opinion was to cut the inlay piece a thou or two smaller to allow for glue and an easier fit. Me, being stubborn and with tons of inlay experience, I made the inlay pieces a few thou BIGGER than the openings or cavities. I then back beveled the the bottom corners to allow them to slip in tightly. One has to work quickly or the glue will swell the pieces and they’ll never go in! However, even doing that there were traces of glue lines with the Shaper cut inlay. Most people won’t notice probably. But with double bevel marquetry….since the mating pieces are angled…the fit is incredible and perfectly tight! Zero gaps. I love that process! Anyway…thanks a ton.
Making my way through a few of your vids 😁. Just a thought. If you ever want to upgrade your pin vise, you might want to take a look at Godhand pin vises. We do a lot of scratchbuilt models/prototypes, wood, plastic, metal etc and pin vises are a pet peave. Godhand makes two different sizes of pin vises. We’ve got ten of both sizes (dislike changing bits every few minutes). Their micro drill bits (couple of different sets) are a major step up as well. They are not cheap, but if you use a pin vise a lot and get frustrated with the typical ones available, look at Godhand. All of their tools are second to none, IMHO. Great pencils, scissors, scrapers, craft knives, pin vises; it’s literally the small simple things that can make life so much more enjoyable and efficient in the shop 😁 Not associated with Godhand or any of their resellers other than as a extremely (and I don’t use that phrase lightly) satisfied customer. As always, YMMV. Just sharing, nothing more, nothing less.
I certainly appreciate your feedback and info about the pin vises! I'll check em out...even though I've not ever had any problems with these inexpensive type. Typically, the jobber drill bit protrudes about 3/16" and it stays there. The bits in general won't get dull...they break from getting dropped! 😄 I put a ton of effort into my"Marquetry Class 101" and it may seem pricey, so I have tried hard to keep the price down. However, I am going to look up those pin vises, perhaps for myself. So thanks a ton!
Love the info and explanations compared the two. The K and J Magnets sticker on your card scraper is coincidental? I’ve known about them for a while. Data presented on website to order is much nicer than randomly going out hunting for correct dimensions.
Great to hear! And the magnetic business card keeps my thumbs from getting burnt! 😆 I love KJ Magnetics. Huge selection, no minimum orders, quality neodymium magnets and as you said…lots of great info. Thank you tons for checking out my videos!
Beautiful work, very informative video. Is your buddy Randy Allen the guitar maker in Northern California? Hi supplies my high school woodshop with his offcuts, great guy
Hello…we’re outa town …will be back soon. The 1/8 “ bits I found from several places. I think Tools Today sells 1/8” shank bits. (I purchased an 1/8” collet adapter from Shaper) Also, a company called Think & Tinker sells tiny bits. Amana has some as well. If I remember I can get part numbers for you. Much thanks.
This is a great question! Pros n cons, like anything else. To me, there’s something about a piece like this that’s made by hand. At first glance it may look perfect. Upon closer inspection, one could see slight deviations here n there. It’s challenging to follow a line with a blade that’s barely the thickness of three sheets of paper! Tiny! But that’s what gives it its wonderful dynamic…it’s soul. Perfectly made pieces that could be artful, but made by machine lack this trait, IMO. Although also beautiful, they don’t quite have the “life” as a piece cut by hand. The customer didn’t care how I made it…he just needed one. I sent him both of em. He said he couldn’t tell the difference! 😬 Much thanks.
@@ramonartful I totally agree. Something that is made by hand, that is almost perfect....but not quite....has a special type of beauty about it. Machine made perfection lacks soul, and the appreciation for human talent, aka a craftsman. When I look at antiques I appreciate whoever made it, and therefore care for it greater as it can't be remade the same. Beautiful stuff Ramon and thanks for the lengthy reply!
Marquetry is such a huge passion of mine! It’s amazing how much it can add to a piece! I do have a course called Marquetry Class 101. In it, I have a flash drive with 4 hours of tutorial, broke down in chapters. I also provide the fretsaw, marquetry platform, veneers, drill bits and pin Vice (used to drill tiny holes) saw blades, glue…basically everything you need to get started! Check it out here: ramonvaldezfinefurniture.com/product/marquetry-class-101-full-kit/ Thanks
@@ramonartful thanks I’ll check it out. I already have a Knew Concepts fret saw but would be interested in the course. You’re not located in MN by chance are you?
That was another great video, Ramon. You almost had me when you pulled out your handplane to level the inlaid letters :-) "What, no belt sander" I said to my computer. With the shaper origin, how much larger was the cavity than the letters? I've got a few things in mind that could use some inlay and your video has me motivated to give it a try. Thanks as always.
Ha ha…yeah…I love belt sanders. 😬 I may have created a misunderstanding in the video, I’ll have to go back and check. But the letters were made LARGER than the cavity. Not by much…maybe a thou or two. All the research that I did said to do the opposite when doing inlay. “Leave yourself some room and make the inlay a few thousandths smaller”. I didn’t like that idea because all the photos that I could zoom in on didn’t look tight. Glue lines look horrible to me. So, with my insert pieces slightly larger, I back beveled the corners to allow them to start slipping into place. Then they compressed (slightly) as they went in creating a tight fit. There still were slight glue lines on one edge of the letter T. Most people wouldn’t notice. I’m looking forward to seeing what you create!
@@ramonartful thanks for that clarification Ramom. You were probably clear in your explanation but I made the assumption that the letters would be undersized. In a way, with the letters being slightly beveled, it's like you are using a bit of the marquetry technique with the inlay. I've got a few projects on the go right now so it may be a while before I give this a try. Cheers
Love Spyderco Delica. I prefer the older style (been carrying these since early nineties!) that have a thicker blade. When I first began purchasing these, they were 28 bucks 😬
@@ramonartful I got mine sometime around 2005. The blade on mine is pretty stout. It was more than $28. I have the FRN scales on mine. Sounds like you've had a few, I've only had the one I carry now.
"All the grain continues through the walnut, so that should make it look cohesive and harmonious"
It's very interesting to hear stuff like this because I'm about 99% sure the customer will never notice or care about that small detail, but watching you take pride in it is watching an artist at work.
You’re correct! However, doing those little details can make a piece look beautiful…even if those specific details aren’t actually known. Much thanks.
I really appreciate that you show the two methods, as not all wood workers have access to, or the money spend on the high tech equipment.
I like both methods but feel greater satisfaction doing it by hand. Anyway, thanks for checking it out!
It’s always a pleasure watching a master at work and enjoying themselves while doing it. I was just looking at the Shaper Origin a few weeks ago at Rockler but will definitely be giving the marquetry a try at some point just as an interesting skill.
Thanks a ton! This was a fun project to try out both processes. I’ll never get away from hand cut marquetry but the Shaper has me thinking of new and much larger projects!
That “puhfect” was perfect. Great job on this video!
😬 thanks Amanda!
Your work is amazing, Ramon. I really enjoyed watching how the marquetry process is done. I have appreciated your contributions on the Woodworkers' Podcast as well. Thanks for posting this. I'm looking forward to making some small stumbling attempts into marquetry soon!
Thank you for the good words! Just about anything is soooo much easier to learn these days! Including Marquetry. The double bevel technique is my fav! Once you get the angle right for a good fit, then it just takes a little practice. Reach out if you have some questions.
Excelente tutorial Ramón , la marquetería y las incrustaciones , elevadas al máximo nivel , muchas gracias por compartir tanta creatividad y conocimientos , un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón , Galicia ( España) 😜 🤓
¡Siempre agradezco tus amables palabras! ¡Me lleva algo de tiempo traducir! 😆
Awesome video, thanks for sharing the process!
Truly…thanks for checking it out!
Nice video Ramon, thanks. I am a bit surprised that the Origin result was not as tight as the marquetry one. I suppose that's because the marquetry bevel is great at hiding imperfections. Or, ...... maybe your hand cutting technique is just stupendous! Perhaps you should raise the prices on your marquetry pieces.
Paul
I was surprised myself. With the research that I did (surrounding doing inlay with CNC or Shaper Origin) the overall opinion was to cut the inlay piece a thou or two smaller to allow for glue and an easier fit. Me, being stubborn and with tons of inlay experience, I made the inlay pieces a few thou BIGGER than the openings or cavities. I then back beveled the the bottom corners to allow them to slip in tightly. One has to work quickly or the glue will swell the pieces and they’ll never go in! However, even doing that there were traces of glue lines with the Shaper cut inlay. Most people won’t notice probably. But with double bevel marquetry….since the mating pieces are angled…the fit is incredible and perfectly tight! Zero gaps. I love that process! Anyway…thanks a ton.
Such a talented woodworker -- you even speak fluent Morley!
Ha ha…thanks a ton. Cheers 😬
Making my way through a few of your vids 😁.
Just a thought. If you ever want to upgrade your pin vise, you might want to take a look at Godhand pin vises. We do a lot of scratchbuilt models/prototypes, wood, plastic, metal etc and pin vises are a pet peave. Godhand makes two different sizes of pin vises. We’ve got ten of both sizes (dislike changing bits every few minutes). Their micro drill bits (couple of different sets) are a major step up as well. They are not cheap, but if you use a pin vise a lot and get frustrated with the typical ones available, look at Godhand. All of their tools are second to none, IMHO.
Great pencils, scissors, scrapers, craft knives, pin vises; it’s literally the small simple things that can make life so much more enjoyable and efficient in the shop 😁
Not associated with Godhand or any of their resellers other than as a extremely (and I don’t use that phrase lightly) satisfied customer.
As always, YMMV. Just sharing, nothing more, nothing less.
I certainly appreciate your feedback and info about the pin vises! I'll check em out...even though I've not ever had any problems with these inexpensive type. Typically, the jobber drill bit protrudes about 3/16" and it stays there. The bits in general won't get dull...they break from getting dropped! 😄 I put a ton of effort into my"Marquetry Class 101" and it may seem pricey, so I have tried hard to keep the price down. However, I am going to look up those pin vises, perhaps for myself. So thanks a ton!
Love the info and explanations compared the two.
The K and J Magnets sticker on your card scraper is coincidental? I’ve known about them for a while. Data presented on website to order is much nicer than randomly going out hunting for correct dimensions.
Great to hear! And the magnetic business card keeps my thumbs from getting burnt! 😆 I love KJ Magnetics. Huge selection, no minimum orders, quality neodymium magnets and as you said…lots of great info. Thank you tons for checking out my videos!
Your just on another level. Amazing
Thanks for checking it out!
Beautiful work, very informative video. Is your buddy Randy Allen the guitar maker in Northern California? Hi supplies my high school woodshop with his offcuts, great guy
Thank you so much. And nope…my friend is a furniture maker. Different, great guy 😬
Love the Shaper stuff!
It’s such a cool and fun machine!
It’s such a cool and fun machine!
Hi Ramon, Can you tell me more about the small bits (manufacturer and part no.) you used with the Origin. Great videos!
Hello…we’re outa town …will be back soon.
The 1/8 “ bits I found from several places. I think Tools Today sells 1/8” shank bits. (I purchased an 1/8” collet adapter from Shaper) Also, a company called Think & Tinker sells tiny bits. Amana has some as well.
If I remember I can get part numbers for you. Much thanks.
Google search “Golden Coulee” router bits…they have a lot…Temo brand
Thanks for your reply.
So you feel there was a better result by hand? I really hope so! It's a beautiful thing knowing that machines can't replace a talented craftsman.
This is a great question! Pros n cons, like anything else. To me, there’s something about a piece like this that’s made by hand. At first glance it may look perfect. Upon closer inspection, one could see slight deviations here n there. It’s challenging to follow a line with a blade that’s barely the thickness of three sheets of paper! Tiny! But that’s what gives it its wonderful dynamic…it’s soul. Perfectly made pieces that could be artful, but made by machine lack this trait, IMO. Although also beautiful, they don’t quite have the “life” as a piece cut by hand. The customer didn’t care how I made it…he just needed one. I sent him both of em. He said he couldn’t tell the difference! 😬 Much thanks.
@@ramonartful I totally agree. Something that is made by hand, that is almost perfect....but not quite....has a special type of beauty about it. Machine made perfection lacks soul, and the appreciation for human talent, aka a craftsman. When I look at antiques I appreciate whoever made it, and therefore care for it greater as it can't be remade the same. Beautiful stuff Ramon and thanks for the lengthy reply!
I’m very interested in getting into marquetry for my woodworking.
Marquetry is such a huge passion of mine! It’s amazing how much it can add to a piece! I do have a course called Marquetry Class 101. In it, I have a flash drive with 4 hours of tutorial, broke down in chapters. I also provide the fretsaw, marquetry platform, veneers, drill bits and pin Vice (used to drill tiny holes) saw blades, glue…basically everything you need to get started! Check it out here:
ramonvaldezfinefurniture.com/product/marquetry-class-101-full-kit/
Thanks
@@ramonartful thanks I’ll check it out. I already have a Knew Concepts fret saw but would be interested in the course. You’re not located in MN by chance are you?
@@TheTranq Same letters...but reversed! NM...I'm in norther New Mexico. thanks
Also do you have a link to that tiny bit?
Google search Golden Coulee or Temo. The 1/32” bit is item number 3145. Thanks
@@ramonartful awesome. I’ve been wanting one that small but hadn’t been successful in finding one I trusted.
That was another great video, Ramon. You almost had me when you pulled out your handplane to level the inlaid letters :-) "What, no belt sander" I said to my computer. With the shaper origin, how much larger was the cavity than the letters? I've got a few things in mind that could use some inlay and your video has me motivated to give it a try. Thanks as always.
Ha ha…yeah…I love belt sanders. 😬
I may have created a misunderstanding in the video, I’ll have to go back and check. But the letters were made LARGER than the cavity. Not by much…maybe a thou or two. All the research that I did said to do the opposite when doing inlay. “Leave yourself some room and make the inlay a few thousandths smaller”. I didn’t like that idea because all the photos that I could zoom in on didn’t look tight. Glue lines look horrible to me. So, with my insert pieces slightly larger, I back beveled the corners to allow them to start slipping into place. Then they compressed (slightly) as they went in creating a tight fit. There still were slight glue lines on one edge of the letter T. Most people wouldn’t notice.
I’m looking forward to seeing what you create!
@@ramonartful thanks for that clarification Ramom. You were probably clear in your explanation but I made the assumption that the letters would be undersized. In a way, with the letters being slightly beveled, it's like you are using a bit of the marquetry technique with the inlay. I've got a few projects on the go right now so it may be a while before I give this a try. Cheers
What offset did you use?
If I remember correctly, zero! But it could probably use .001”. I wanted a super tight fit and had to arch the pieces into place! Risky 😆
Spyderco Delica 4 is my EDC
Love Spyderco Delica. I prefer the older style (been carrying these since early nineties!) that have a thicker blade. When I first began purchasing these, they were 28 bucks 😬
@@ramonartful I got mine sometime around 2005. The blade on mine is pretty stout. It was more than $28. I have the FRN scales on mine. Sounds like you've had a few, I've only had the one I carry now.